UC-NRLF 


$b  53a  m>M 


* 


III 


|\>/ 


& 


LIBRARY 


University  of  California. 


Class 


Hb 


bepard  Book  Ceap»a; 

"Ye  Olde  Books  Shoppe.' 
Moium  Hots!  BulldJ 
SALT  LAKE  CITY,  0TAH. 


» 


iC 


WILLARD  GLAZIER. 


HEADWATEES 


MISSISSIPPI; 


Biographical  Sketches  op  Early  and  Recent  Explorers  of  the  Great  ' 

River,  and  a  Full  Account  of  the  Discovery  and  Location 

of  its  True  Source  in  a  Lake  beyond  Itasca. 


CAPTAIN  WILLARD  GLAZIER, 

Author  of  "Three  Years  In  the  Federal  Cavalry,"  "Capture,  Prison-Pen    and  Escape,"  "Bat- 

ties  for  the  Union,"  "Heroes  of  Three  Wars,"  "Peculiarities  of  American  Cities," 

"Ocean  to  Ocean  on  Horseback,"  "Down  the  Great  River,"  Etc. 


■«©»- 


JjUitteftratefr 


■•Bs- 


Chicago  and  New  York  : 
RAND,   McNALLY  &   COMPANY 

1898. 


IESERVATION 
IPY  ADDED 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1892,  by 

WILLARD    GLAZIER, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington,  D.  C. 


•  •  •     • 


•  •  •  •  •  • 

•  •   •  •»•  •  • 


•  ••••«•••    • 


en 


TO 

ALICE, 

WHO    SnARED    THE    FATIGUES  AND  PRIVATIONS  OF    MY 

SECOND    EXPEDITION    TO    THE    HEADWATERS    OF 

THE  MISSISSIPPI;    STOOD  WITH    ME  AT  THE 

SOURCE;    AND  DRANK  FROM  ITS 

REMOTEST  SPRINGS, 

IS     LOVINGLY     INSCRIBED 
BY 

THE  AUTHOK. 


222987 


PREFACE. 


&%£. 


'ROM  the  authenticated  discovery  of 
the  Mississippi  by  Hernando  de  Soto 
in  1541,  to  the  location  of  its  True 
Source  in  1881,  comparatively  little 
is  known  of  the  early  pioneers  or 
of  the  series  of  explorations  which 
finally  led  to  a  solution  of  the  mys- 
tery that  surrounded  its  Headwaters 
for  a  period  of  over  three  hundred  years.  The  Great 
River  and  its  tributaries  have  been  revealed  to  the 
world  through  a  multitude  of  daring  enterprises,  the 
motives  and  incidents  of  which  are  familiar  to  but 
few  of  the  present  generation.  Both  the  early  and 
more  modern  explorers  wrote  much,  but  published 
little,  and  for  the  latter  reason,  the  records  of  their 
travels  have  seldom  found  their  way  to  the  eye  of  the 
general  reader. 

It  is  the  purpose  of  this  volume  to  present  as  far 
as  possible,  from  all  available  sources,  some  idea  of 
the  circumstances  which  led  to  certain  important 
discoveries  in  North  America,  together  with  such 
sketches  of  the  old  and  recent  explorers  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi as  the  plan  of  the  work  will  permit.  Few 
or  no  attempts  were  made  up  to  1805  to  penetrate  the 
secret  of  the  origin  of  the  river,  in  which  year  Lieu- 
tenant Pike,  commissioned  by  the  Government,  sig- 

(7) 


8  PREFACE. 

nally  failed  of  his  object.  The  efforts  of  General 
Cass  in  1820,  and  of  Beltrami  three  years  later, 
though  well  directed  and  zealously  executed,  also  fell 
short  of  the  attainment  of  the  desired  end — the  Foun- 
tain-head of  the  Mississippi  was  unseen  and  unknown 
to  them.  Schoolcraft,  in  1832,  approached  more 
nearly  the  solution  of  the  problem  than  any  of  his 
predecessors,  and,  in  the  discovery  of  Lake  Itasca, 
believed  he  had  reached  the  extreme  head  of  the 
river.  He  published  his  discovery  to  the  world,  and 
it  was  generally  accepted  on  his  authority.  For 
fifty  years  Lake  Itasca  was  laid  down  in  the  maps  as 
the  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters,  still  not  a  few 
expressed  their  doubts  of  the  genuineness  of  the  dis- 
covery, and  the  Indians  of  Northern  Minnesota 
denied  it  altogether.  Nicollet,  a  French  savant,  who 
followed  in  the  footsteps  of  Schoolcraft  in  1836, 
strangely  confirmed  the  latter  in  what  has  since  been 
proved  to  be  a  geographical  error. 

Rumors  having  reached  the  author  of  the  present 
volume,  from  various  sources,  of  the  doubtful  cor- 
rectness of  Schoolcraft  in  assuming  Itasca  to  be  the 
Primal  Reservoir  of  the  river,  he  determined  to  inves- 
tigate the  matter  in  the  interest  of  geography,  and, 
having  time  at  his  disposal  in  the  summer  of  1881P 
organized  an  expedition  to  proceed  to  the  Headwaters. 
The  result  was  the  discovery  of  a  body  of  water  lying 
immediately  to  the  south  of  Lake  Itasca,  and  emp- 
tying into  the  latter  through  a  perennial  stream,  the 
mouth  of  which  was  entirely  concealed  from  view  by 
a  dense  growth  of  lake  vegetation  and  fallen  trees. 
This  lake,  having  an  area  of  255  acres,  a  circumfer- 
ence of  between  five  and  six  miles,  and  an  average 
depth  of  forty-five  feet,  being  above  Itasca,  necessarily 


PREFACE.  9 

invalidated  the  claim  of  Schoolcraft,  and  the  author's 
location  of  the  True  Head  of  the  Mississippi  is  now 
recognized  by  nearly  all  of  the  geographers  and  edu- 
cational publishers  of  this  country  and  Europe. 

Between  1541  and  1881,  every  part  of  the  Great 
River  had  been  visited  by  intrepid  explorers,  with  the 
exception  of  its  almost  inaccessible  Source — of  the 
final  discovery  of  which  full  particulars  will  be  found 
in  Part  Third  of  this  volume. 

During  the  ten  years  that  elapsed  between  1881  and 
1891,  spasmodic  efforts,  partaking  for  the  most  part 
of  a  disingenuous  and  personal  character,  were  made 
by  a  few  cavilers  to  discredit  the  author's  discovery, 
and  it  was  thought  by  his  friends  and  those  who 
believed  in  his  claim  that  a  further  investigation  at 
the  Head  of  the  river  might  have  the  effect  of  throw- 
ing more  light  upon  the  question,  and  possibly  of 
convincing  the  opposition.  Accordingly,  a  Second 
Expedition  was  projected,  and  undertaken  in  August, 
1891,  composed  of  geographers,  scientists,  practical 
surveyors,  and  men  of  culture;  a  detailed  account  of 
which  appears  in  the  following  chapters,  for  which 
the  author  respectfully  bespeaks  the  reader's  fair  and 
candid  consideration. 

An  itinerary  of  the  journey  to  the  Headwaters  of 
the  Great  River  will  be  found  in  the  early  chapters  of 
Part  Third,  in  which  occasional  but  brief  reference 
is  made  to  men  and  places,  which  may  be  of  some 
practical  utility  to  the  tourist  contemplating  a  pil- 
grimage through  Northern  Minnesota  to  the  Source 
of  the  Mighty  River. 

The  writer  makes  no  pretension  to  have  exhausted 
the  topics  he  has  treated,  or  to  placing  his  work  in 
comparison   with   more  elaborate   productions;   but 


10 


PREFACE. 


presents  it  to  the  reader  simply  as  an  epitome  of  the 
history  of  our  magnificent  river — a  river  in  many 
respects  without  a  peer. 

*  *  *  The  illustrations  accompanying  this  volume 
are  from  drawings  by  True  Williams,  of  Chicago,  and 
the  camera  of  Fred  J.  Trost,  of  the  firm  of  Van  Loo 
&  Trost,  Toledo,  Ohio — the  latter  a  member  of  the 
Expedition  •  of  1891,  and  the  first  to  photograph 
scenery  at  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi. 


Chicago,  January  14,  1893. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 

ALVAR  NUNEZ  CABEgA  DE  VACA. 

De  Vaca— Pineda — De  Narvaez  Expedition— Florida — Ponce 
de  Leon — Tampa  Bay — Illusions — Weary  of  the  Sea— No 
Signs  of  Gold— Disappointment — Much  Harassed — Hung(  r 
and  Fatigue— A  Council— Boats  Built — Sail  West— More 
Misfortune— Narvaez  Lost  at  Sea — De  Vaca  Shipwrecked 
—Four  Survivors— De  Vaca  Saved— Six  Years  with  the 
Indians— Western  Wilderness— Bison— The  Rockies— De 
Vaca  and  the  Mississippi— His  Adventures— Returns  to 
Spain— Interview  with  the  King— Rio  de  la  Plata- 
Exiled  to  Africa— Recalled— Death  of  De  Vaca— His  Life 
a  Romance 25 

CHAPTER  II. 

HERNANDO   DE   SOTO. 

Discoverer  of  the  Mississippi — Birthplace — Family  Misfor- 
tunes—Out-of-door Sports— Don  Pedro— De  Soto  and  Isa- 
bella— Betrothed — Don  Pedro's  Vexation — His  Treatment 
of  De  Soto— They  Sail  for  South  America— Pedro  Plans  De 
Soto's  Death— De  Soto  Joins  Pizarro — Battle  with  Uracca — 
De  Soto's  Bravery — Codro— De  Soto  and  Isabella — Lette*" 
Intercepted — A  Messenger — His  Fate — De  Soto's  Revenge 
— Don  Pedro's  Successor — Cordova — De  Soto  Attacks 
Pedro— Pedro  Orders  Him  to  be  Slain — Pizarro's  Raid 
Upon  Peru— Requests  the  Aid  of  De  Soto— De  Soto  Rejoins 

Pizarro— Apology  for  De  Soto 37 

(li) 


12  co:nte:nts. 

CHAPTER  III. 

DE   SOTO   WITH  PIZAKKO. 

A  Dark  Page — A  Lover  of  Adventure — Soldierly  Qualities- 
Overtures  to  De  Soto — He  Starts  South — Deceived— Pizar- 
ro's  Abject  Nature — Outrages  on  the  Peruvian  King — 
Pizarro's  Plunder — Natives  Abandon  the  City — Cruelties 
of  Pizarro — De  Soto  Crosses  the  Andes — A  Peaceful 
Embassy  —  Novel  Spectacle  —  Magnificent  Highway  — 
Strength  of  the  Nation— Peruvian  Camp — The  Inca's 
Envoy — Gifts  and  Friendly  Greetings — Pizarro  Meets  the 
Inca — Consternation  of  the  Inca— Made  Prisoner — De  Soto's 
Conduct — The  Inca  Burned  at  the  Stake — De  Soto's  Anger 
—Peruvians  Burn  Their  Capital— Peru  Conquered— De 
Soto  Proposes  to  Return  to  Spain 50 

CHAPTER  IV. 

DISCOVERY   OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI. 

Don  Pedro  Dies — Isabella  Disinherited — Cabeca  de  Vaca — 
Expedition  to  North  America — Governor  of  Cuba — Many 
Join  De  Soto — Sail  for  Cuba — Isabella  Regent  of  Cuba — 
Fleet  Reaches  Florida — Reconnoitering — Juan  Ortiz — 
Reputed  Gold  Fields— The  "Lady  of  the  Countree" — A 
Hostage — Disappointments — Discontent — De  Soto  Hopeful 
—The  Mississippi  Reached — Rio  Grande — Crossed  on  Rafts 
— No  Gold  Found— De  Soto  Despondent — Health  Under- 
mined—His Death — Buried  in  the  River — Band  Disorgan- 
ized         62 

CHAPTER  V. 

MARQUETTE    AND  JOLIET. 

Father  Marquette — His  Birth — Sails  for  Canada.  Arrives  at 
Quebec— Studies  Indian  Languages — Ordered  to  Lake 
Superior— Ste.  Marie  du  Sault— Michilimackinac— Policy 
of  the  French— Louis  Joliet— Meets  La  Salle — The  Un- 
known River — Lake  Michigan — Allouez  and  Dablon — 
The  Miss;ssippi  —  Hostile  Natives  —  Indian  Village  — 
The  Manitous— Missouri  River— Ohio  River— Mosquitoes- 
Descending  the  Mississippi — Progress  Arrested — Resolve  to 


CONTENTS.  Id 

Return — Ascend  the  Illinois — Joliet  Leaves  Marquette— 
Goes  to  Quebec — Loses  All  His  Papers — Makes  His  Report 
from  Memory — Anticosti — Royal  Pilot — Dies — Buried  in 
Labrador— Marquette  Dies  in  Michigan — A  Herald  of 
Western  Civilization 74 

CHAPTER    VI. 

ROBERT   CAVELIER   DE   LA   SALLE. 

Birth — Sails  for  Canada — Great  Schemes — Father  Dollier — 
Expedition  Starts— Joliet  and  Pere* — Discovery  of  the 
Ohio— Returns  to  France — King  Louis — Returns  to  Can- 
ada— Fort  Frontenac — Again  Visits  France — Minister  Col- 
bert— Returns  to  Canada — De  Tonty — Plans — Misfortune 
—Jealous  Enemies— The  "  Griffin  "—Fresh  Troubles— 
Iroquois — Exploration  on  Mississippi — Creive-Cceur — Plans 
Defeated— Father  Hennepin 97 

CHAPTER  VII. 

LA   SALLE   EXPLORES   THE   LOWER    MISSISSIPPI. 

La  Salle  Returns  to  Canada — More  Disaster — Starts  Out 
Again-  -Fresh  Supplies— Reverses— Indian  Vengeance— 
The  Great  River — Meets  Tonty — Attack  by  Iroquois — 
Chicago  River — Tamaroas — Prudhomme  Lost — Nearing 
the  Gulf— The  Natchez  Tribe— Father  Membre*— The  Open 
Sea— La  Salle  Takes  Formal  Possession — Louisiana — Fight 
with  Indians — La  Salle  Falls  111 — Recovers — Prepares  to 
Return  to  Quebec — His  Plans — Disappointment — Returns 
to  France HI 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

LAST  VOYAGE  AND  DEATH  OF  LA   SALLE. 

King  Louis  Listens  to  La  Salle— Twenty  Vessels  Sail  for 
Canada— Misunderstanding — Reach  the  Gulf — Misfortune 
Presaged— General  Discontent — A  Faithless  Captain — Fort 
Saint  Louis — La  Salle  Undaunted — Christmas  Approached 
—La  Salle's  Nephew— His  Death  Determined  On— Also 
That  of  La  Salle— Assassination  of  La  Salle— Body  Left  to 


14  CONTENTS  • 

the  Beasts  of  Prey — All  iu  Confusion — Villainy  Avenged— 
Duhaut  Killed — La  Salle's  Venture  Entirely  Defeated — 
The  Greatest  of  Explorers. 126 

CHAPTER  IX. 

FATHER   LOUIS   HENNEPIN. 

Goes  to  Canada  as  a  Missionary  —  Fellow-Passenger  with 
La  Salle — Ordered  to  Fort  Frontenac — Joins  La  Salle — A 
Doubtful  Narrative  of  Adventures — Proceeds  Up  the  Mis- 
sissippi— Discovers  Saint  Anthony  Falls — Attacked  by 
Sioux  —  Captured  —  Life  Threatened  —  Diplomacy  —  His 
Prayers — Held  a  Captive— Learns  the  Sioux  Language- 
Descends  the  River — Returns  to  the  Sioux  Village— Leaves 
for  Canada — Sails  for  France — Publishes  His  Journal — 
Much  Criticised  by  Cotemporaries 148 

CHAPTER  X. 

LA  HONTAN — CHARLEVOIX — CARVER. 

La  Hontan  Visits  the  Mississippi — The  "Long  River" — Much 
Criticised  —  Nicollet  Defends  Him  —  Cannon  River  — 
Descends  the  Mississippi — Discoveries — Charlevoix  Com- 
missioned by  French  Government — New  France — Quebec 
— Proceeds  Westward  —The  Mississippi — Beautiful  Scen- 
ery— New  Orleans — Returns  to  Europe — "History  of  New 
France  "—Captain  Jonathan  Carver — Leaves  Boston — A 
Northwest  Passage — Reaches  the  Mississippi — Ascends  the 
River — Surprised  by  L  dians — Lake  Pepin — Ancient  Re- 
mains— Saint  Anthony  Falls — Carver  River — Sioux  Vil- 
lage—Becomes a  Chief — Great  Storm — Indians  Terrified — 
Carver's  Courage — Carver's  Cave — Indian  Council— Gift  of 
Land — Saint  Croix  River — Lake  Superior — Journeys  East 
ward — Sails  for  England — Reporis  to  Government — Re- 
verses Overtake  Him— Dies,  Aged  48 161 


CONTENTS.  15 


CHAPTER  I. 

EXPEDITIONS   OF   LIEUTENANT   PIKE. 

Enters  the  Army — Ordered  on  Exploration — Headwaters  of 
the  Mississippi— Twenty  M(  n  under  His  Command— Leaves 
Saint  Louis — Ascends  the  River — Disadvantages — Winter 
Overtakes  Him — Much  Suffering — Travels  on  Snow-shoes 
— Sandy  Lake — Leech  Lake — Cass  Lake — Mantle  of  Snow — 
Meets  Fur  Traders — Hospitably  Received — Explains  His 
Object — Turtle  Lake — Returns  to  Saint  Louis— His  Narra- 
tive—Second Expedition— Rocky  Mountains — Pike's.  Peak 
— Rio  Grande — Taken  Prisoner  by  Spaniards — Ordered  to 
Leave  Their  Territory — Reports  to  His  Government — Pro- 
moted— Expedition  Against  York,  Canada — Magazine  Ex- 
plodes—Fatally Injured  and  Dies— A  Zealous  Officer.   175 

CHAPTER  II. 

THE   CASS   EXPEDITION. 

War  of  1812 — Cass  Joins  the  Forces  as  Colonel — General  Hull 
—  Cross  s  the  Detroit  River  —  Hull  Surrenders  to  the 
Enemy— Cass  Goes  to  Washington  on  Parole — Promoted — 
Appointed  Governor  of  Michigan  Territory — Treats  with 
the  Indians — Suggests  an  Expedition  to  the  Northwest — 
Schoolcraft — Headwaters  of  Mississippi — Upper  Cedar 
Lake — Secretary  of  War — Black  Hawk  War — Minister  to 
France — U.  S.  Senator — Candidate  for  President — Secre- 
tary of  State — A  Scholar  of  Fine  Attainments — Wrote 
Several  Works — Dies  at  Detroit,  Aged  84.      ...      180 

CHAPTER  III. 

BELTRAMI   AND   THE    "  JULIAN    SOURCE." 

Native  of  Venice— Educated  for  the  Law — Appointed  Judge 
—Extraordinary  Energy  and  Capacity — The  Carbonari  — 


16  CONTENTS. 

Ordered  into  Exile — Travels  through  Europe — Visits  the 
United  States — Turns  to  Exploration — Valley  of  the  Missis- 
sippi— Talioferra — Embarks  for  Fort  Snelling — Will  Seek 
the  Source  of  the  Mississippi — Major  Long's  Expedition — 
Beltrami  Offers  to  Accompany  Him — Attempts  Made  to 
Dissuade  Him — Determines  to  Go — Restless  and  Adventur- 
ous— The  Expedition  Leaves  Fort  Snelling — The  Saint 
Peter — A  Curious  Contrast — Lake  Traverse — Red  River — 
Pembina — Dissatisfied — Leaves  Pembina — Two  Chippewas 
and  an  Interpreter — Kills  Two  White  Bears — Interpreter 
Leaves  Beltrami — Also  the  Two  Indians — Great  Portage 
River — Source  of  Red  River  of  the  North — Highest  Land 
of  North  America — Sources  of  the  Mississippi — Lake 
Julia — Beltrami  in  Error — La  Biche  Lake — Visits  New 
Orleans — Mexico — Philadelphia — Returns  to  Europe— Dies 
in  Italy,  Aged  75 185 

CHAPTER  IV. 

SCHOOLCRAFT   AND   LAKE   ITASCA. 

Native  of  New  York — Middlebury  College — Visits  the  Missis- 
sippi Valley — Geological  Investigations — Mines  and  Min- 
erals of  Missouri— Goes  to  Washington— President  Mon- 
roe— Calhoun  Offers  Schoolcraft  a  Position  as  Geologist  to 
Cass  Expedition — Embarks  at  Detroit — The  Mississippi — 
"  Cassina  "—Again  Commissioned— Upper  Mississippi- 
Sioux  and  Chippewas — Sandy  Lake  Council — Visits  Cass 
Lake— In  Search  of  the  Source  of  the  Great  River — 
Ozawindib— Schoolcraft  Island — William  Morrison — Lake 
Itasca — Crow  Wing  River — Indian  Council— Appointed 
Indian  Agent — The  Six  Nations— Married  to  an  Indian- 
Second  Marriage— Author  of  Several  Works— Visits  Europe 
—Dies  in  Washington,  Aged  71 197 

CHAPTER  V. 

INVESTIGATIONS   OF   NICOLLET. 

Native  of  Savoy,  France  —Enters  College— Professor  of  Mathe- 
matics—Legion of  Honor — Ruined  Financially— Comes  to 
America— Explores     the     Mississippi — Baltimore— Sum- 


CONTENTS.  17 

moned  to  Washington — To  Explore  Headwaters  of  Missis- 
sippi— Prehistoric  Relics — Pipe-Stone  Quarry — Cannon 
River— His  Indian  Guide— Red  River — Crow  Wing- 
Leech  Lake— Flat- Mouth— Lake  Itasca— Nicollet  Creek- 
Lake  Bemidji— Cass  Lake — Returns  to  Leech  Lake- 
Entertained  by  Flat-Mouth— 111  Health— Dies  at  Washing- 
ton  ' 208 

CHAPTER  VI. 

EXPLOITS   OF   CHARLES   LAMADf. 

Leaves  Saint  Louis  in  1840 — An  Excursion — History  and  Tra- 
dition— Lake  Pepin — Legends  and  Romance — "Winona" 
— Red  Wing — Saint  Peter  River — Sioux  and  Dakotas — 
A  Dog-feast — Saint  Anthony  Falls— Crow  Wing  River — 
A  Wolf  Killed — Chased  by  Wolves — Crow  Wing  Village 
—William  Morrison— The  White  Panther— Chief  Ilole-in- 
the-day — Indian  Traders — Lake  Winnebegoshish — Bear 
Hunt — Cass  Lake — The  Chippewa  Nation     ....     218 


Uart  ®tjirfr* 


CHAPTER  I. 

RECENT   EXPLORATIONS. 

Lake  Itasca — Schoolcraft — Nicollet — Lake  Beyond  Itasca — 
Primal  Reservoir — Misrepresentations — Further  Investiga- 
tion— Partisan  Opposition — Antagonism  to  Geographical 
Truth— Error  of  Schoolcraft 233 

CHAPTER  II. 

JOURNEY   TO   MINNESOTA. 

A.  Second  Expedition — Leave  Milwaukee — Through  Wiscon- 
sin— The    Dalles — The    Mississippi— King    of   American 
Rivers— La  Crosse— Origin  of  Name— Nathan  Myrick— 
2 


18  CONTENTS. 

Growth  of  La  Crosse — Immense  Advantages — Population 
—Minnesota— Wi.  ona— The  Republican  —  D.  Sinclair — 
Growth  of  Winona— A  Beautiful  City— Commercial  Im- 
portance— Enterprise 237 

CHAPTER  III. 

WINONA   TO   MINNEAPOLIS. 

Route — A  Contrast — Different  Modes  of  Traveling — Canoe- 
ing— Wabasha — Pepin — Lake  of  Tears — Le  Sueur — Carver 
— Lake  City — Picturesque  Scenery — Maiden  Rock — Red 
Wing — Swiss  Missionaries — Population — Hastings— Saint 
Croix  River — Saint  Paul. 246 

CHAPTER  IV. 

EARLY   HISTORY   OF   MINNESOTA. 

Fifty  Years  Ago — A  Wilderness — Indians — Pioneer  Times — 
Father  Menard — Carver's  Treaties — Elected  Chief — Pike, 
Cass,  Beltrami — Schoolcraft — Nicollet — Fremont — Long — 
Keating — Explorers  of  Minnesota — Hennepin — Renville — 
Provencalle — Morrison — Faribault — Morrison  and  Lake 
Itasca— Minnesota  Territory — Governor  Ramsey — General 
Sibley — Great  Natural  Resources 257 

CHAPTER  V. 

THE    "TWIN   CITIES." 

Saint  Paul  and  Minneapolis — Phenomenal  Growth — First 
Building  in  Saint  Paul — The  Jesuits — A  Log  Chapel — 
Dedicated  to  the  Apostle  Paul — The  Capital— Population 
1849,  1854,  1856,  1880,  1890— Location— Five  Bridges- 
Head  of  Navigation — Well-built  City — Large  Trade — 
State  Capitol — Institutions  of  Learning — Religion  and 
Education —  The  Press — Resorts — Carver's  Cave — White 
Bear  Lake — Smaller  Lakes — Minneapolis — Saint  Anthony 
— Colonel  J.  H.  Stevens — Suspension  Bridge — Saint 
Anthony  Falls— A  Tragic  Story— Lumber  Businrss— Great 
Flour     Mills— Beautiful    Residences— University— Athen- 


CONTENTS.  19 

8eum — The    Press — Resorts — Healthful     Climate — Minne- 
haha— Lake  Minnetonka 265 

CHAPTER  VI. 

PREPARATION   FOR   SECOND    EXPEDITION. 

Members  of  Expedition — Route  to  the  Headwaters — Press 
Comments  —  Saint  Paul  Dispatch  —  Globe  —  Northwestern 
Presbyterian — Red  Wing  Argus — Albany  Knickerbocker — 
Dubuque  Trade  Journal — Boston  Herald — Philadelphia 
Times — Geographical  News 297 

CHAPTER  VII. 

MINNEAPOLIS   TO    PARK   RAPIDS. 

Leave  Minneapolis — Saint  Cloud — Brainerd— New  Englanders 
— Pine  Park — Sanitarium — Y.  M.  C.  A. — Miss  Grandel- 
meyer— Lake  Itasca — Turtle  Lake — Dr.  Seal — Chenowage- 
sic — Judge  Holland — Dr.  Rosser — Cap!ain  Seelye — George 
S.  Canfield— Wadena— Park  Rapids— Henry  R.  Cobb— E. 
M.  Horton— Shell  Prairies 315 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

THROUGH   THE   WILDERNESS. 

C.  D.  Cutting  and  Son — Surveyors  Horton  and  Keay — Adams 
and  Son — Delezene — Equipment — "Jerry" — Start  from 
Park  Rapids— Virgin  Forest — Dinner  Creek — Fording — 
"Morrison  River" — Camp  Munsell — Mule  Lake— Shooting 
a  Bear — A  Correspondent — Height  of  Land — Lake  Gamble 
— Bear  Creek — View  of  Lake  Itasca — Embark  for  School- 
craft Island 326 

CHAPTER   IX. 

HEADWATERS   OF   THE   MISSISSIPPI. 

Camp  Shure— Nicollet  Creek— Bogs  and  Ponds— Dead  Lakes 
— Hauteur  de  Terre — Infant  Mississippi  —  Pokegama  — 
Primal  Reservoir — Schoolcraft — His  Narrative  Quoted — 
Poem— One  Hour  on  the  Island — Passed  out  of  the  Lake- 
Nicollet— Coasted  Itasca— Nicollet  Creek— Floating  Bog 
— Government  Survey — Hopewell  Clarke    ....       339 


20  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  X. 

JOURNAL   OF   THE   EXPEDITION. 

Field  Notes — Permanent  Headquarters — Camp  Trost — Trolling 
— Nicollet  Creek — Exaggeration— Lake  Glazier — Appear- 
ance of  the  Lake — Coasting  Itasca — Affluents — Eagle's  Nest 
— Excelsior  Creek — Harriet  Promontory — Deer  Tracks — A 
Cascade — Variety  of  Trees — " Hernando  de  Soto"  Lake — 
Character  Overdrawn — A  Dead  Lake — A  Pleasing  Inci- 
dent— Moses  Lagard — Horton  Creek — Lake  Alice — Meas- 
urements— Stars  and  Stripes — Investigations  Ended — A 
Few  Remarks — Record  of  the  Expedition — Surveyors' 
Report — Botany  of  the  Region — Salute  the  Flag — Sunday 
Divine  Service — First  Sermon  at  the  Source.   .     .     .       354 

CHAPTER  XL 

RETURN  TO    MINNEAPOLIS. 

Tablets  Erected — Tents  Struck— Preparations  for  Departure- 
Return  Journey — Camp  Horton — Red  Squirrels— Crane 
Lake — Morrison  River — Fording  the  Stream — Shell  Prai- 
ries— Park  Rapids — Central  House — Dr.  Winship — A  Heavy 
Storm — Discomfort — Senior  Member  of  the  Expedition — 
Lagard  Leaves  the  Party — Messrs.  Horton  and  Keay — 
Leave  for  Wadena — Merchants'  Hotel — J.  E.  Reynolds — 
Little  Falls— "The  Antlers" — Mayor  Richardson — Com- 
rade Sutton — Arrive  in  Minneapolis — A  Joint  Report — 
Members  of  the  Expedition  Return  to  Their  Homes.      381 

CHAPTER  XII. 

INDORSEMENT   AND    CONCLUSION. 

True  Source  Unanimously  Indorsed — Gratuitous  Assertions  of 
Opponents — Corroborative  Testimony — Surveyor  Horton  : 
Measured  All  Affluents  of  Lakes  Itasca  and  Glazier — Excel- 
sior Creek  —  Lake  Glazier — The  Source  of  the  River. 
Assistant  Surveyor  Keay:  Perfectly  Familiar  with  the 
Region — Lake  Glazier  the  Primal  Reservoir.  Dr.  A.  Mun- 
sell:  Agrees  with  All  the  Members  of  Expedition — Lake 
Glazier  is  the  True  Source.     J.  C.  Crane:    Personal  Inves- 


CONTENTS.  21 

ligation — Traced  and  Measured  all  Feeders — Lake  Glazier 
is  the  True  Source.  D.  S.  Knowlton:  Lake  South  of  Itasca 
is  the  Veritable  Source — Geographers  Justified  in  Recog- 
nizing It.  Charles  E.  Harrison:  Captain  Glazier's  Claim 
Fully  Justified.  Henry  R.  Cobb:  Lake  Glazier  the  Largest 
Body  of  Water  having  Connection  with  Mississippi  through 
Itasca.  Fred.  J.  Trost:  Perfectly  Certain  Lake  Glazier  is 
the  True  Source.  Albert  W.  Whitney:  Lake  Glazier 
Fulfills  All  Conditions  Necessary  for  the  Real  Source. 
W.  S.  Shure:  Explored  All  the  Region— Lake  Glazier  is 
the  Source.  Conclusion — Claim  of  the  Author — Adverse 
Statements  Can  Not  be  Substantiated — The  Author's  Posi- 
tion Same  as  Schoolcraft's — Conclusions  of  Second  Expedi- 
tion Incontrovertible 396 


2te>psptote* 


First  Glazier  Expedition — His  Claim — Material  for  Considera- 
tion— Ten  Years  of  Controversy — Reasons  for  the  Expedi- 
tion— Source  Still  in  Doubt — Companions — Reach  Brainerd 
— Conveyance  to  Leech  Lake  —  Indian  Agency — Major 
Ruffee — Chenowagesic — Kabekanka  River — Lake  Garfield 
— A  Portage — Lakes  Bayard,  Stoneman,  Pleasanton,  Custer, 
and  Kilpatrick — Portages — Lakes  Gregg,  Davies,  and  Sher- 
idan—  Lakes  George  and  Paine — River  Naiwa —  Lake 
Elvira — De  Soto  River — Lake  Itasca  and  Schoolcraft  Island 
— Omushkos — Coasting  Itasca — Six  Small  Feeders — Dis- 
covery of  the  Source — Its  Affluents — Error  of  Schoolcraft 
— Pokegama — Lake  Glazier — Elk  Lake — Infant  Mississippi 
— Results  of  First  Expedition — Schoolcraft  and  Nicollet — 
Nicollet  Creek  —  Critics  and  Cavilers  —  Correspondence 
Relating  to  First  Expedition — Voice  of  the  Press — Cor- 
respondence Previous  to  Second  Expedition  —  After  the 
Return— Editorial  Comment— Indorsements  of  the  Glazier 
Claim 405 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE. 

Portrait  of  the  Author,      -        .        .        .        .     Frontispiece. 

Early  Explorers  of  the  Mississippi,        ....  24 

De  Vaca  Crossing  the  Continent, 83 

Shipwreck  of  De  Vaca, 36 

Hernando  De  Soto, -  40 

The  Inca  Receiving  De  Soto, 55 

Burial  of  De  Soto  at  Midnight, 71 

Juan  Ortiz,  the  Indian  Captive, 73 

Marquette  and  Joliet  Descending  the  Mississippi,      -         -  85 

Early  Map  of  the  Illinois, 106 

La  Salle  Taking  Possession  of  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi,  121 

Erecting  Cross  at  an  Indian  Village,          -  125 

Assassination  of  La  Salle, 144 

Building  of  Fort  Saint  Louis, 147 

Hennepin  at  the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony,         -        -        -  154 

Father  Hennepin  at  His  Devotions,  -        -        -        -        -  160 

Carver  and  the  Thunder-storm,      -        -        -        -        -  168 

Explorers  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,          -        -                 -  172 

Winter  Quarters  on  the  Upper  Mississippi,    -        -  174 

Pike  Exploring  on  Snow-shoes,         -        -        -        -        -  177 

Cass  Expedition  Leaving  Detroit,          ....  183 

Beltrami  Surprised  by  Indians,          -  193 

Southern  End  of  Lake  Itasca, 203 

Schoolcraft  Island, 207 

Nicollet  at  Lake  Itasca, 215 

A  Glimpse  of  the  Red  River,     -        -                 -        -        -  217 

Lanman  Pursued  by  Wolves,          .....  222 

Bear  Hunting,    -        -        -        - 229 

Map  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,   - 232 

Shooting  Rapids, 236 

Dalles  of  the  Wisconsin, 240 

View  of  Maiden  Rock  —  Lake  Pepin,             -  252 

Saint  Paul  in  1841,     --------  264 

View  of  Saint  Paul  id  1891,    -        --.'.-        -        -  267 

White  Bear  Lake,       --------  277 

Falls  of  Minnehaha,        .......  287 

(22) 


ILLUSTRATIONS.  23 

PAGE 

Lake  Minnetonka,      -        - 294 

View  of  Minneapolis  in  1891, 296 

Members  of  Second  Glazier  Expedition,    -        -        -        .  303 

In  Pine  Park,  Brainerd, 814 

Log-boom  on  the  Upper  Mississippi,          -        -        -        -  316 

The  Mississippi  at  Brainerd, 318 

Burial  of  Chenowagesic, 321 

Main  Street,  Wadena, 323 

Waiting  for  the  Train,  Wadena,         -        -        -        -        -  325 

View  of  Park  Rapids, -  327 

Starting  from  Park  Rapids, 330 

Bruin  at  Bay, 335 

Map  of  the  Headwaters,     -------  340 

Mouth  of  the  Infant  Mississippi,    -        -        -        -        -  343 

Maps  of  Schoolcraft  and  Nicollet,      -----  349 

Nightfall  at  Our  Encampment, 353 

Lake  Glazier,      -        •        -        -        -        -        -                 -  355 

Eagle's  Nest,           ...---..  357 

Mouth  of  Excelsior  Creek,         ------  359 

Caught  in  Lake  Glazier,         ------  361 

On  an  Indian  Trail  at  the  Headwaters,      -  363 

Strange  Meeting  in  the  Wilderness,        -.-.-.-  365 

Outlet  of  Lake  Glazier,      -------  367 

Lake  Alice,      -        -        - 369 

Glen  Alice,          -        -        -        -        -        -        -        -        -  371 

First  Sermon  at  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,       -        -  373 

A  Talk  on  the  Promontory, 375 

Lake  Crane,    -        -        -        -                         -        -        -  380 

Expedition  Fording  a  Stream, 384 

An  Abandoned  Claim, 386 

A  Frontier  Bank, 388 

The  Menahga  House,      - 391 

Merchants'  Hotel  and  Park,  Wadena,        ....  393 

First  Glazier  Expedition  at  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  404 

APPENDIX. 

Map  of  Lake  Glazier  and  its  Feeders,        ....  408 

Lake  Garfield, 433 

Lake  Sheridan,           -        -        -        -  -     -        •        -        -  456 

Bird's-eye  View  of  Lake  Glazier,            ....  507 


-— — — — — — — — — - — — ~l _~____-_>_______ — , , 


Charlevoix. 


DfATH  OF 
MARQUETTE 


EARLY    EXPLORERS   OF   THE    MISSISSIPPI. 
(24) 


CHAPTER  I. 

ALVAR  NUNEZ   CABEgA   DE   VACA. 

HE  position  which  this  early  explorer 
holds  among  his  contemporaries  is  very 
important,  so  far  as  the  narrative  of 
his  travels  in  the  New  World  is  con- 
cerned, bnt  historians  differ  widely  in 
their  estimation  of  what  is  due  him  as 
a  discoverer,  and  will  probably  never  be  able  to  settle 
satisfactorily  the  question  as  to  whether  or  not  he  was 
the  first  European  to  see  the  Mississippi. 

In  the  confusing  mazes  of  opinion,  which  are  really 
all  that  are  to  be  consulted  in  regard  to  the  earliest 
discoveries  of  the  Great  River,  there  have  been  some 
suggestions  of  an  expedition  as  early  as  1519,  under 
Don  Alonzo  Alvarez  Pineda,  an  officer  in  the  service 
of  the  Governor  of  Jamaica;  justified  by  the  Spanish 
historian  Navarrete,  who  writes  that  Pineda  discov- 
ered the  Mississippi  at  that  time,  and  named  it  "  Rio 
del  Espirito  Santo,"  being  influenced  to  undertake 
this  exploration  by  the  universal  enthusiasm  excited 
by  the  conquest  of  Mexico  by  Cortez. 

The  aim  and  object  of  those  who,  like  De  Vaca, 
penetrated  the  wildernesses  of  North  America  was 
ostensibly  to  search  out  the  reputed  mines  of  gold  and 
silver,  rather  than  to  explore  the  unknown  regions 
for  the  enlightenment  of  their  countrymen  and  the 

(25) 


26  :  / :  *  ■  •  kA^iLr/Ex^LORERs. 

advancement  of  science;  so  that  the  recitals  of  their 
journey ings  were  more  the  detailed  accounts  of  the 
obstacles  which  confronted  them,  and  the  hardships 
which  they  passed  through  in  pursuit  of  the  coveted 
treasure,  than  careful  reports  of  geographical  re- 
search. 

It  is  this  vagueness  of  description  in  De  Vaca's  nar- 
rative which  has  caused  so  much  speculation  among 
those  interested  in  the  history  of  our  Great  Central 
River,  and  which  has  baffled  those  who  wish  to  do  jus- 
tice to  its  discoverer.  If  he  crossed  the  Rio  Grande 
of  the  later  Spaniards,  he  has  given  no  evidence  that 
would  distinguish  it  from  the  other  rivers  of  the 
South,  and  which  would  place  him  unquestionably 
among  the  great  explorers.  On  the  other  hand,  those 
who  follow  De  Soto  in  his  march  through  the  wilder- 
ness can  not  doubt  that  he  and  his  companions  saw 
the  Mississippi,  or  that  the  disappointed  cavalier  met 
death  upon  its  shores.  It  is  therefore  to  him  that 
historians  generally  give  the  contested  honor.  The 
purpose  of  these  pages  is  not,  however,  to  advance 
any  personal  theories,  or  to  assume  the  championship 
of  those  who  have  long  since  passed  away,  and  whose 
claims  could  only  be  considered  through  uncertain  and 
intricate  hypotheses,  but  only  to  give  a  brief  account 
of  their  lives,  as  bearing  more  or  less  directly  upon 
the  history  of  the  Great  River. 

De  Vaca  first  comes  into  prominence  as  the  lieuten- 
ant of  Panfilo  de  Narvaez  in  the  expedition  organized 
for  the  conquest  and  colonization  of  "the  whole 
northern  coast  of  the  Gulf  ";  an  enterprise  suggested 
strangely  enough  by  the  personal  pique  of  the  com- 
mander, who,  having  failed  in  his  raid  upon  Cortez, 
in  Mexico,  as  the  lieutenant  of  the  jealous  Velasquez, 


CABECA   DE  VACA.  27 

wished  to  redeem  his  somewhat  tarnished  record  by 
glorious  action  in  a  new  field.  Appealing  to  the  Em- 
peror Charles  V.,  he  obtained  a  commission  to  invade 
the  country  and  to  assume  the  title  of  Adelantado  of 
those  lands  which  he  should  discover  within  the  lim- 
its of  what  was  then  known  as  Florida — a  large  area 
embracing  the  present  division  and  extending  for  an 
almost  indefinite  distance  toward  the  northwest. 

Thus  encouraged  by  the  crown,  he  sailed  from  San 
Lucar  on  the  seventeenth  of  June,  1527,  with  a  com- 
pany of  six  hundred,  and  a  fleet  of  five  vessels.  At 
Hispaniola,  where  a  six-weeks''  halt  was  made  to  fur- 
ther prepare  for  the  journey,  more  than  a  hundred 
of  the  volunteers  abandoned  the  expedition;  while  at 
Trinidad,  whither  two  vessels  had  been  sent,  in  charge 
of  De  Vaca  and  Captain  Pantoja,  to  obtain  provisions, 
both  crews  perished  in  a  violent  storm,  those  only 
escaping  who  had  gone  ashore.  Without  having 
sighted  the  coast  of  Florida,  Narvaez  had  thus  lost 
a  sixth  of  his  men. 

Soon  overtaking  the  shipwrecked  party,  he  estab- 
lished winter  quarters  at  Xagua,  twelves  leagues  be- 
yond, where  in  February  he  joined  the  expedition 
with  reinforcements,  and  arranged  for  the  final  voyage. 

The  Land  of  Flowers,  through  which  Ponce  de 
Leon  had  traveled  in  search  of  fabled  treasures  and 
the  magical  Fountain  of  Youth,  was  still  hidden 
beyond  the  blue  waters  of  the  Gulf,  and  the  shadow 
of  coming  misfortunes,  which  superstition  hinted  at, 
found  no  place  among  the  eager  adventurers. 

On  the  eleventh  of  April  Florida  was  reached,  and 
a  landing  made  just  north  of  Tampa  Bay,  where  the 
colors  of  Spain  were  unfurled  and  the  soil  solemnly 
appropriated  in  the  name  of  Charles  V.     It  had  been 


28  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

the  intention  to  enter  the  larger  hay  to  the  south,  but 
through  a  miscalculation  of  the  pilot,  Miruelo,  the 
ships  had  passed  it,  and  the  destiny  of  the  expedition 
became  thus  entirely  changed. 

Narvaez  and  his  officers  now  anticipated  a  tri- 
umphal march  through  a  country  which  they  had 
peopled  with  a  race  far  superior  to  the  Mexicans  or 
Peruvians;  whose  towns  were  to  be  rich  in  the  wealth 
of  precious  metals,  and  whose  inhabitant?,  milder 
than  the  South  Americans,  would  offer  them  no 
resistance;  a  country  whose  limits  they  believed 
inclosed  an  empire  greater  than  Montezuma's,  and 
within  whose  confines  were  to  be  found  splendors  yet 
undreamed  of. 

Their  illusions  were  soon  dispelled.  Advancing 
upon  an  Indian  village,  whose  cabins  could  be  seen  at 
the  head  of  the  little  bay  in  which  the  ships  were 
anchored,  they  were  fearlessly  met  by  the  natives, 
whose  temerity  somewhat  surprised  them.  After  a 
friendly  reception  they  were  requested  by  unmistak- 
able signs  to  leave,  and  the  firmness  of  the  Indians  so 
impressed  Narvaez — who,  although  a  man  of  unques- 
tioned courage,  was  lacking  in  decision — that  he  called 
a  consultation  of  his  principal  officers  to  determine 
upon  the  wisest  course.  They  concluded  to  follow  the 
coast  by  land  in  search  of  the  bay  which  they  had  at- 
tempted to  reach — the  Espirito  Santo  of  De  Soto's  later 
expedition — the  ships  to  take  a  similar  course  and  meet 
them  at  that  point.  De  Vaca  was  strongly  opposed 
to  this  plan,  but  his  companions  were  thoroughly 
weary  of  the  sea,  and  were  eager  to  seek  their  for- 
tunes on  terra  firma.  Had  they  been  more  famil- 
iar with  the  country,  the  enterprise  would  not  have 
terminated  so    disastrously;    for   exploring   parties, 


CABEQA   DE  VACA.  29 

sent  out  at  the  beginning  of  the  march,  found  the 
bay  they  were  in  search  of,  and,  failing  to  recognize 
it,  believed  they  had  been  unsuccessful;  while  another 
party,  meeting  Indians  who  wore  golden  ornaments, 
were  told  by  them  of  a  place  to  the  north,  which  they 
called  "  Abalachie,"  where  the  metal  could  be  found. 
By  following  this  direction  they  would  have  undoubt- 
edly reached  the  mines  of  Upper  Georgia,  which 
would  have  amply  satisfied  them;  but  instead  they 
entered  Appalachee  toward  the  south,  where  they 
found  nothing  but  poor  villages  and  no  sign  of  the 
coveted  treasure. 

From  the  old  narratives,  full  as  they  are  of  exag- 
gerations, we  catch  a  glimpse  of  a  magnificent  type 
of  the  Indian  here;  living  in  wretched  huts  in  the 
most  primitive  way,  and  totally  lacking  in  those 
graces  with  which  the  imaginative  Spaniards  had 
clothed  them,  yet  none  the  less  admirable,  and  pos- 
sessed of  courage,  intelligence,  and  a  certain  physical 
elegance. 

After  spending  more  than  three  weeks  with  these 
Appalachians,  who  were  described  as  men  of  gigantic 
proportions,  the  company  made  preparations  to  move 
on  toward  Haute,  where  they  were  told  they  would 
find  an  abundance  of  food,  and  a  very  rich  region. 

If  Niirvaez  had  been  enterprising  enough  at  this 
point  to  verify  the  statements  of  the  Indians,  which 
were  made  chiefly  to  induce  him  and  his  men  to  leave 
their  village,  he  would  have  found  a  broad  expanse 
of  fertile  and  populous  country  all  about  him;  but, 
lacking  in  those  active  and  daring  qualities  which 
have  ever  characterized  the  successful  explorer,  he 
was  easily  led  by  the  cunning  natives  and  persuaded 
that  the  "good  lands"  lay  beyond. 


30  EAKLY  EXPLORERS. 

At  Haute,  as  at  Appalachee,  the  Spaniards  met  only 
disappointment,  for  the  inhabitants,  learning  of  their 
approach,  had  abandoned  and  burned  their  homes 
and  made  away  with  their  provisions.  It  was  as 
though  some  enchantment  preceded  them  to  de- 
stroy the  villages  and  to  lay  waste  the  fields.  They 
were  harassed  on  every  side  by  hostile  natives,  w7ho 
watched  for  them  whenever  they  ventured  beyond 
camp,  and  who  sent  showers  of  arrows  into  their 
ranks  on  the  march;  until  at  last,  worn  out  with 
hunger,  sickness,  and  fatigue,  and  thoroughly  dis- 
couraged, their  only  desire  was  to  escape.  The  ships 
had  not  been  heard  from,  and  were  supposed  to  have 
returned  to  Havana,  but  De  Vaca,  with  Captains  Cas- 
tillo and  Dorantes  and  an  escort  of  fifty  foot  soldiers, 
went  to  the  Gulf,  which  was  about  a  day's  journey 
away,  to  see  if  there  might  be  a  sail  in  sight.  The 
broad  expanse  betrayed  no  sign,  and  they  were  obliged 
to  return  with  the  disheartening  news.  A  council 
was  then  called  and  a  plan  discussed  which  only 
hopeless  men  could  have  determined  upon.  Immc 
diately  the  forest  was  converted  into  a  ship-yard, 
where  two  hundred  and  forty  men  worked  with  the 
energy  of  despair.  Within  six  weeks  they  had  com- 
pleted a  fleet  of  five  boats  out  of  whatever  materials 
were  available,  and  by  the  twenty-second  of  Septem- 
ber, 1528,  were  ready*  to  embark.  "Narvaez  com- 
manded the  first  boat;  the  second  was  in  charge  of 
Enriquez,  the  controller,  and  Juan  Suarez,  the  com- 
missary; in  the  third  went  Captains  Castillo  and 
Dorantes;  in  the  fourth,  Captains  Tellez  and  Penalosa, 
and  in  the  fifth,  Cabega  de  Vaca — each  boat  carrying 
about  forty-eight  men." 

As  it  would  have  been  disastrous  to  remain  longer 


CABECA   DE  YACA.  31 

on  shore,  where  provisions  were  becoming  more 
scarce,  where  their  lives  were  continually  exposed  to 
the  attacks  of  the  Indians,  and  where  the  miasma  of 
the  swamps  began  to  breed  a  deadly  fever,  these  two 
hundred  and  forty  half -starved  and  disappointed  men 
immediately  put  to  sea,  which  was  dangerous  for 
loosely  constructed  craft  at  any  season,  but  doubly 
so  during  the  autumn  months.  They  took  a  westerly 
course  along  the  coast,  with  the  idea  of  reaching  the 
River  of  Palms  and  the  Spanish  settlements  in  Mex- 
ico— which  on  the  maps  of  the  time  had  been  inaccu- 
rately placed — believing  they  would  be  less  exposed 
than  by  striking  out  across  the  Gulf;  but  notwith- 
standing this  caution  the  company  was  destined  to 
destruction,  and  misfortune  met  it  on  every  hand. 

Narvaez,  separated  from  his  crew,  which  had  gone 
ashore,  was  swept  out  to  sea  in  a  violent  storm  and 
never  seen  again.  De  Vaea's  party,  and  those  of  Cas- 
tillo and  Dorantes,  were  shipwrecked  upon  the  Island 
of  Santa  Rosa,  where  nearly  all  perished ;  while  those 
who  were  with  Enriquez  and  Juan  Suarez  suffered 
the  most  terrible  privations  and  at  last  they  too  mis- 
erably perished.  The  ninety  six  men  in  the  boats 
commanded  by  Captains  Tellez  and  Penalosa,  going 
ashore  near  Pass  Christian  for  water  and  provisions, 
were  killed  by  the  natives,  who  could  easily  overcome 
them,  so  weak  had  they  become  bodily  and  in 
numbers. 

There  were  now  only  four  survivors  of  that  great 
expedition  which  a  short  time  before  had  left  the  Bay 
of  the  True  Cross  believing  their  arms  irresistible  and 
their  success- assured;  these  were  De  Vaca,  Castillo, 
Dorantes,  and  the  Moor  Estevanico.  Through  the 
inevitable  changes  of  a  life  among  a  strange  and  half- 


32  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

savage  people,  this  little  company  soon  became  sepa- 
rated and  its  members  subjected  to  a  kind  of  servi- 
tude. For  six  years  De  Vaca  stayed  among  the  coast 
tribes,  carrying  on  a  system  of  trade  with  the  Indians 
of  the  interior,  and  becoming  familiar  with  their 
language  and  customs,  until  at  last  he  was  able  to 
communicate  with  his  companions  with  whom  he 
hoped  to  reach  the  Spanish  settlements  in  Mexico. 
This  plan  was,  strangely  enough,  promoted  by  the 
Indians,  who  began  to  hold  the  white  men  in  super- 
stitious awe,  calling  them  "  medicine  men,"  and 
believing  them  endowed  with  supernatural  powers. 

De  Vaca,  with  amusing  frankness,  describes  his 
modus  operandi,  which  was  to  say  a  paternoster  and 
an  ave  maria  over  the  patient;  and  he  mentions  the 
generosity  of  the  Indians,  who,  after  "treatment," 
often  gave  the  great  "medicines"  all  they  possessed, 
and  accompanied  them  in  a  kind  of  triumphal  pro- 
cession from  place  to  place.  In  this  way  they  pene- 
trated the  Western  Wilderness,  "  traversing  the  bison 
plains  and  the  adobe  towns  of  the  half-civilized 
natives  of  New  Mexico,  perched  on  their  rocky 
heights,"  and  crossing  the  rugged  and  magnificent 
passes  of  the  Rockies. 

Mr.  John  O'Shea,  who  has  made  a  careful  study  of 
the  subject,  in  his  "Discovery  and  Explorations  of 
the  Mississippi,"  says:  "In  this  long  wandering  he 
(De  Vaca)  must  have  reached  and  crossed  the  Missis- 
sippi, but  we  in  vain  examine  his  narrative  for  some- 
thing to  distinguish  it  from  any  other  large  river  that 
he  met."  In  fact,  it  is  entirely  through  conjecture 
that  De  Vaca  is  given  the  benefit  of  a  doubt.  By 
some  unexplained  circumstance,  he  and  his  compan- 
ions may  have  entirely  failed  to  cross  the  stream,  and 


34  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

again,  he  may  have  been,  as  Mr.  O'Shea  adds,  "  the 
first  European  who  ( launched  his  boat  upon  its 
waters."* 

Upon  coming  to  a  large  stream,  to  the  westward, 
the  last  in  that  lonely  journey  across  the  country, 
De  Vaca  and  his  companions  met  a  party  of  Indians, 
from  whom  they  learned  that  white  men  had  recently 
been  seen  near  there,  both  on  the  water  and  on  horse- 
back, and  traces  of  their  late  passage  were  soon  dis- 
covered. In  a  short  time  they  were  overtaken,  and 
found  to  be  a  band  of  Spaniards  from  a  Mexican  colony. 
The  meeting  was  a  strange  one,  and  the  four  wanderers 
were  greeted  as  those  returned  from  the  dead. 

Clothed  in  the  rough  dress  of  the  natives,  which 
long  association  had  thrust  upon  them;  changed  by 
contact  with  their  peculiar  life,  and  bronzed  by  expos- 
ure to  wind  and  sun,  their  appearance  produced  a 
singular  effect  upon  their  countrymen,  none  the  less 
heightened  by  a  mysterious  air,  which  had  been  capri- 
ciously assumed.  They  had  explored  the  wonders  of 
a  new  land,  and  had  visited  unknown  peoples — what 
wonder,  then,  that  they  should  entertain  their  un- 
questioning friends  with  tales  of  adventure,  the  more 
fascinating  because  the  more  highly  colored?  The 
Spaniards,  with  their  natural  love  of  the  marvelous, 
listened  spellbound  while  De  Vaca  related  the 
experiences  which  he  and  his  fellow-travelers  had 
passed  through,  regarding  them  with  iringled  curios- 
ity and  admiration.  They  were  received  "  with  the 
greatest  sympathy  by  the  Spanish  authorities  in 
Mexico/'  and,  having  all  their  wants  supplied,  were 
soon  enabled  to  return  to  their  native  land,  where 
their  recitals  awakened  even  deeper  interest  and 
enthusiasm. 


CABECA   DE  VACA.  35 

Estevanico,  the  Moor,  preferred  to  remain  in  Mex- 
ico, where  he  became  the  guide  of  Francisco  Narco  de 
Nizza,  and  ultimately  perished  at  the  hands  of  the 
Indians,  who  suspected  him  of  treachery,  because 
he  announced  himself  as  the  emissary  of  the  white 
people. 

De  Vaca  reached  Havana  on  the  fourth  of  May, 
remaining  there  a  month  to  await  the  arrival  of  the 
two  other  vessels,  on  which  Castillo  and  Dorantes  had 
taken  passage;  then,  eager  to  return  to  Spain,  and  to 
confer  with  his  Sovereign  upon  the  things  which  he 
had  seen,  he  sailed  for  Lisbon,  which  was  reached  on 
the  fifteenth  of  August,  1537. 

It  was  De  Vaca's  policy,  upon  his  return,  to  be  non- 
committal, as  he  was  anxious  to  privately  inform  the 
King  of  the  resources  of  what  he  called  "the  richest 
country  in  the  world,"  and  to  beg  the  privilege  of 
returning  to  Florida  in  the  service  of  his  country; 
but  Charles,  with  royal  partiality,  was  listening  to 
the  requests  of  his  more  influential  subjects,  and 
De  Vaca  was  obliged  to  content  himself  with  the 
title  of  Adelantado  of  the  province  of  Rio  de  la 
Plata,  a  commission  requiring  active  duty  and  some 
danger. 

While  discharging  the  functions  of  this  office,  he 
became  involved  in  a  quarrel  with  one  of  his  country- 
men, whose  jealousy  he  had  excited,  which  ultimately 
resulted  in  his  arrest  and  dismissal.  Eight  years  of 
exile  in  Africa  followed,  which,  to  one  long  accus- 
tomed to  the  privations  of  a  strange  country  and 
possessed  of  a  strong  love  of  adventure,  must  have 
had  its  compensations. 

Upon  his  recall  in  1552  he  was  given  a  judgeship 
in  Seville,  where  he  died  in  1564. 


36 


EARLY   EXPLORERS. 


The  story  of  his  life,  from  beginning  to  end,  is  a 
romance,  in  which  the  scenes  and  people  of  primitive 
America  are  invested  with  the  charm  of  history's 
"distant  twilight,"  into  whose  shadows  many  a  stu- 
dent has  ventured  in  the  cause  of  truth.  Among 
these,  several  have  become  convinced,  from  their  own 
researches,  that  the  honor  of  the  discovery  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi rightfully  belongs  to  the  brave  lieutenant  of 
Panfilo  Narvaez;  and  George  Fairbanks,  in  his  "His- 
tory of  Florida,"  even  pays  him  the  tribute  of  saying 
that  "upon  some  high  bluff  of  that  wondrous  stream 
should  be  placed  a  monument "  to  this  European  who 
first  visited  its  shores. 

Whether  or  not  future  investigation  will  uncrown 
the  old  hero  De  Soto  for  one  who  may  have  unjustly 
remained  unrecognized  is  a  question  which  only  time 
can  answer;  but  whoever  the  claimant,  we  are  ready 
to  say:  "  Honor  to  whom  honor  is  due." 


#"'_;•'  •r'-.-SHIPWRECROPD.EVACA." 


CHAPTER  II. 

HERNANDO    DE    SOTO. 

HE  discovery  of  the  Mississippi  is 
very  generally  ascribed  to  Hernando 
De  Soto,  who,  in  his  adventurous 
march  in  pursuit  of  gold  and  glory, 
reached  the  Great  River  in  April, 
1541,  near  the  site  of  the  present 
city  of  Natchez. 

In  the  opinion  of  most  historians 
no  white  man's  eye  had  ever  before  beheld  that  flood 
whose  banks  are  now  inhabited  by  busy  millions,  and 
in  following  the  achievements  of  its  discoverer,  we 
find  it  filled  with  new  interest.  From  the  cold  springs 
that  rise  in  the  northern  wilderness,  to  the  great  torrent 
that  mingles  with  the  tropical  Gulf  three  thousand 
miles  below,  the  Spaniard  who  lies  buried  beneath  its 
waters  still  claims  an  undying  tribute.  His  ambitious 
march  westward,  through  treacherous  swamps  and 
over  flower-dotted  prairies,  in  pursuit  of  the  fabled  El 
Dorado;  the  desperate  encounters  with  Indians,  who 
at  every  turn  tried  to  resist  the  advance  of  his  steel- 
clad  band;  the  delays  and  disappointments,  and  the 
ultimate  shattering  of  their  "  castles  in  Spain/'  all 
form  a  narrative  romantic  and  fascinating  as  one  of 
the  enchantments  of  the  Arabian  Nights.  Indeed, 
were  it  not  that  the  contemporaneous  accounts  tally 
so  nearly,  we  of  a  later  day  would  be  inclined  to 

(37> 


38  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

accept  the  adventures  of  these  helmeted  cavaliers  with 
much  less  allowance. 

So  closely  is  the  life  of  De  Soto  identified  with  the 
history  of  exploration  in  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  so  brilliant  a  touch  has  his  presence  added  to  its 
early  annals,  that  any  sketch  of  the  Great  Eiver  with- 
out mention  of  him  would  lose  its  most  attractive 
feature.  He  was  born  in  the  little  walled  town  of 
Xeres,  in  the  province  of  Estramadura,  Southern 
Spain,  in  the  year  1500,  just  at  the  threshold  of  the 
new  century,  destined  to  be  one  of  the  brightest  in 
the  annals  of  the  Old  World,  and  one  of  the  most 
significant  in  the  history  of  the  New.  The  ancestral 
castle  in  which  he  first  saw  light,  once  the  scene  of 
wealth  and  magnificence,  had  become,  through  re- 
peated misfortunes  to  his  family,  only  the  dilapidated 
abode  of  a  haughty  race,  and  Hernando  found  him- 
self, like  many  another  young  Spaniard  of  his  time, 
the  heir  of  poverty  and  pride.  His  early  surround- 
ings, and  the  enforced  idleness  which  peculiar  cir- 
cumstances pressed  upon  him,  no  doubt  greatly 
influenced  his  after  career.  His  father  was  unable  to 
give  him  the  advantages  which  were  accessible  to  the 
sons  of  richer  noblemen,  and  custom  forbade  that  the 
family  fortunes  should  be  retrieved  by  work;  so  the 
bright  boy  passed  his  childhood  in  comparative  idle- 
ness, indulging  at  his  will  in  the  out-of-door  sports, 
for  which  he  had  a  great  fondness,  and  visiting 
occasionally  the  neighboring  monasteries,  wiiere  he 
probably  received  the  religious  bent  that  afterward 
proved  such  a  strong  force  in  his  character. 

While  a  mere  lad,  De  Soto  came  under  the  notice 
of  Don  Pedro  de  Avila,  Count  of  Pufio  en  Eostro, 
and  this  wealthy  nobleman,  impressed  by  the  manly 


HERNANDO    DE  SOTO.  39 

bearing  of  the  boy,  and  his  personal  attractiveness,  be- 
came his  patron,  and  offered  him  all  the  privileges  of 
an  own  son.  He  was  sent  to  one  of  the  leading  Spanish 
universities — probably  that  of  Saragossa — where  his 
skill  in  fencing  and  horsemanship  was  perfected,  and 
where  he  received  the  further  training  that  fitted  him 
for  subsequent  events.  He  was  prominent  at  the 
tournaments,  and  always  excited  the  envy  of  com- 
petitive cavaliers  in  these  exhibitions  of  martial 
prowess. 

In  the  intervals  between  the  university  terms,  Don 
Pedro's  protege  found  a  welcome  in  his  foster-father's 
home,  where  he  became  a  great  favorite;  and  so  sure 
was  the  confidence  which  his  friend  reposed  in  him, 
that  when  the  former  was  appointed  Governor  of 
Darien,  he  asked  De  Soto  to  remain  with  his  family 
in  the  castle  near  Badajoz.  Here,  during  Don  Pedro's 
absence,  De  Soto  formed  a  strong  attachment  for  the 
Governor's  second  daughter,  Isabella,  a  beautiful  girl 
of  sixteen,  who,  in  accordance  with  the  custom  of 
her  country  and  station,  had  already  been  presented 
at  court  and  received  many  flattering  attentions. 
Yet,  notwithstanding  the  attractions  of  her  more 
eligible  suitors,  Donna  Isabella  showed  a  partial  pref- 
erence for  her  poor  cavalier,  and  in  time  the  mutual 
sentiment  was  sealed  by  a  betrothal.  The  Wo  were 
constantly  thrown  together,  and  being  congenial  in 
tastes  passed  many  happy  days  in  their  common  home. 
At  this  time  young  De  Soto  possessed  all  the  charms 
of  mind  and  person  that  would  win  for  him  the 
admiration  of  his  associates.  He  was  tall  and  erect, 
with  the  perfect  grace  that  is  acquired  by  familiarity 
with  athletic  exercise;  his  features  were  handsome, 
and   suited  his   well-poised  head;    his  bearing  was 


HERNANDO    DE  SOTO. 
(40) 


HERNANDO   DE  SOTO.  41 

dignified,  and  his  character  without  reproach.  It 
can  not  be  wondered  at,  therefore,  that  two  such 
attractive  beings  should  have  been  drawn  together, 
or  that  they  should  have  become  an  example  of  love 
and  devotion  for  centuries  afterward. 

Upon  the  return  of  Don  Pedro  from  Darien  five 
years  later,  to  arrange  his  private  affairs  preparatory 
to  a  more  prolonged  sojourn  in  the  New  World,  his 
daughter's  betrothal  was  made  known  to  him.  At 
first  he  was  disposed  to  ridicule  the  affair;  but 
upon  being  persuaded  by  Isabella's  governess  that  the 
girl  returned  the  affection,  and  that  she  had  declared, 
if  her  wish  were  opposed,  she  would  enter  a  convent, 
the  matter  became  more  serious,  and  finally  took  such 
an  offensive  aspect  that  the  count  was  beside  himself 
with  vexation.  He  was  the  more  disturbed  from  the 
fact  that  a  short  time  before  Isabella  had  been  sought 
in  marriage  by  one  of  the  nobility — a  young  man  near 
of  kin  to  royalty  itself;  and  that  his  daughter  should 
be  indifferent  to  the  bright  prospects  of  such  an 
alliance,  and  prefer  a  dependent  upon  her  father's 
bounty,  was  more  than  the  haughty  noble  could 
endure.  He  began  to  treat  his  former  favorite  with 
dislike  and  even  contempt,  and,  while  feigning  indif- 
ference to  the  situation,  formed  a  scheme  for  the 
separation  of  the  objects  of  his  displeasure,  and  tried 
to  prevent  their  further  intercourse. 

Being  possessed  of  an  extremely  sensitive  nature, 
De  Soto  felt  keenly  the  rebuke  of  his  benefactor. 
He  could  boast  of  an  ancestry  as  ancient  and  honor- 
able as  that  of  Don  Pedro,  and  by  the  rules  of  Span- 
ish heraldry  "was  entitled  to  admission  into  the 
noble  order  of  Santiago."  He  therefore  resented  the 
marked  discourtesy  shown  him,  and  determined  to 


42  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

break  down  the  mock  barrier  which  had  been  raised 
against  him,  by  becoming  rich.  Accordingly,  when 
Don  Pedro,  with  every  pretension  of  friendship, 
invited  Hernando  to  accompany  him  upon  his  second 
voyage  to  the  New  World,  with  the  promise  of  a 
captaincy,  and  suggestions  of  the  fabled  wealth  of 
America,  the  offer  was  gladly  accepted.  The  young 
man's  parents  were  dead,  and  even  had  they  not  been, 
their  circumstances  would  hardly  have  been  such  as 
to  allow  them  to  lend  their  son  any  assistance;  besides, 
he  was  without  wealthy  friends,  and  this  opportunity 
seemed  to  promise  the  fulfillment  of  his  hopes. 

Although  every  precaution  had  been  taken  to  pre- 
vent a  final  meeting  of  the  lovers,  the  watchers  were 
evaded,  and  Hernando  and  Isabella  met  again  to  renew 
their  pledge  and  to  say  farewell.  They  talked  long 
and  earnestly  of  the  future,  and  parted  with  Isabella's 
memorable  words,  "Hernando,  remember  that  one 
treacherous  friend  is  more  dangerous  than  a  thousand 
avowed  enemies."  Soon  after  this  interview  Don 
Pedro  and  his  followers  embarked  at  San  Lucar,  and 
sailed  toward  the  yet  unexplored  and  attractive  con- 
tinent which  had  burst  upon  the  vision  of  Columbus 
but  a  short  time  before,  and  which  had  already  begun 
to  dazzle  the  eye  of  Europe  with  its  magnificent  pos- 
sibilities. 

In  the  course  of  this  voyage  the  wily  Governor 
doubtless  perfected  his  plans  for  the  ruin  of  his 
unsuspecting  protege,  whom  he  had  determined  to 
subject  to  such  trying  circumstances  that  he  would 
be  powerless  to  oppose  them.  With  the  cleverness  of 
the  arch  fiend  himself,  lie  arranged  perilous  expedi- 
tions, in  which  De  Soto's  life  would  be  more  or  less 
exposed,  and,  presupposing  that  the  young  captain 


HERNANDO   BE   SOTO.  43 

would  be  gratified  by  the  confidence  thus  placed  in 
him,  congratulated  himself  upon  the  outcome. 

Upon  their  arrival  at  Darien,  De  Soto  was  given 
command  of  a  troop  of  horse,  and  with  these  steel- 
clad  followers  began  the  brilliant  career  which  has 
filled  many  a  page  of  early  history  with  valiant  deeds, 
and  touched  them  with  the  fascinating  color  of 
romance.  The  field  for  daring  adventure  was  most 
prolific,  and  wherever  the  cavalry  led,  there  could  be 
seen  the  white  plume  of  De  Soto.  His  contempo- 
raries, however,  have  not  charged  him  with  any  of 
the  disgusting  crimes  of  which  his  brother  officers 
were  guilty,  and  which  were  often  done  in  obedience 
to  Don  Pedro's  command.  Upon  one  occasion  he 
refused  to  obey  a  distasteful  order  and  sent  the  Gov- 
ernor his  decided  disapproval.  This  involved  him  in 
a  duel  with  one  of  his  most  desperate  companions, 
who  was  sent  to  him  with  the  message,  and  whom 
De  Soto  took  occasion  to  visit  with  his  scorn;  but  his 
old-time  training  and  unerring  arm  gave  him  the 
advantage  in  the  encounter,  and  he  escaped  unhurt. 
A  similar  instance  of  his  moral  courage  occurred 
during  Pizarro's  raid  upon  the  territories  of  the 
Indian  Uracca  in  1521. 

That  outraged  monarch,  having  suffered  beyond 
endurance  from  the  unprovoked  attacks  of  the  Span- 
iards, at  last  made  preparation  to  resist  them.  He 
gathered  about  him  a  force  of  some  twenty  thousand 
warriors,  armed  with  their  deadly  arrows  and  wooden 
swords,  and  these,  under  his  leadership,  started 
toward  the  camp  of  the  enemy.  Don  Pedro,  learn- 
ing of  the  intended  attack,  made  plans  to  circumvent 
the  Indians,  who  were  much  stronger  in  numbers, 
and  sending  a  party  under  Espinosa  by  sea,  along  the 


44  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

western  coast  of  Uracca's  dominions,  and  another  by- 
land  under  Pizarro,  attempted  to  rout  the  opposing 
forces  by  a  surprise.  De  Soto  and  his  troop  joined 
Pizarro's  division.  Uracca,  with  a  thousand  men, 
perceiving  the  approach  of  Espinosa  from  the  coast, 
went  bravely  to  the  attack,  and  succeeded  in  com- 
pletely demoralizing  the  Spanish  soldiery;  but  De 
Soto,  having  heard  the  noise  of  battle  from  a  distance, 
left  his  position  and  hurried  with  all  dispatch  to  the 
aid  of  his  distressed  countrymen,  thus  turning  the 
fortunes  of  the  day. 

The  approach  to  the  scene  of  conflict  was  through 
an  almost  impassable  part  of  the  country,  cut  up  by 
huge  rocks  and  seamed  with  chasms,  and  over  this 
difficult  way  the  dauntless  captain  led  his  hesitating 
followers  by  his  own  example  and  by  the  electrifying 
war-cry,  "  Sant  Iago  to  the  rescue  \" 

The  charge  of  this  unexpected  force,  and  above  all 
the  sight  of  the  unfamiliar  horses,  whose  riders  were 
proof  against  the  showers  of  arrows  sent  into  theii 
midst,  struck  terror  into  their  hearts  and  caused 
them  to  retreat  to  the  hills  in  consternation;  but 
having  regained  their  courage  there,  they  began  such 
a  vigorous  onslaught  upon  the  Spaniards  in  the 
valley  below,  that  those  warriors  quickly  retreated  to 
their  ships  to  avoid  the  hail  of  poisoned  darts.  See- 
ing this  action  on  the  part  of  their  recent  conquerors, 
the  Indians  ran  down  from  their  shelter  and  renewed 
the  attack.  In  a  moment  the  quick  eye  of  De  Soto 
saw  their  movement,  and,  knowing  their  fear  of 
horses,  ordered  his  men  to  face  about.  This 
frightened  the  pursuers,  who  were  now  willing  to 
watch  the  Spaniards  from  a  safe  distance.  At  this 
point    Pizarro    and    Espinosa    met   to   discuss  the 


HERNANDO   DE   SOTO.  45 

situation,  and  decided  upon  retreat.  De  Soto  could 
not  endure  such  cowardice.  He  knew  that  although 
the  numbers  of  the  Spaniards  were  considerably  less 
than  those  of  the  enemy,  the  latter  could  never  cope 
with  the  trained  soldiers  arrayed  against  them,  and  he 
felt  besides,  a  certain  responsibility  for  his  country's 
glory.  He  therefore  looked  upon  the  cowardly  action 
of  his  superior  officers  with  ill-concealed  disgust,  and 
availed  himself  of  the  first  opportunity  to  display  his 
sentiment.  This  occurred  but  a  short  time  after- 
ward when,  having  abandoned  the  field,  the  Spanish 
forces  fell  upon  a  small  village  farther  up  the  coast 
and  began  their  murderous  work. 

The  men  of  the  village  were  away,  and  the  pillagers, 
taking  advantage  of  their  absence,  undertook  to  make 
prisoners  of  the  women  and  children.  This  again 
excited  the  indignation  of  De  Soto,  who  informed 
Espinosa  that  if  his  severe  measures  were  not  sus- 
pended, and  the  captives  released,  he  would  withdraw 
his  men  and  leave  him  to  his  fate.  Espinosa  under- 
stood the  strength  of  this  threat,  and  considering  the 
consequences,  sullenly  consented. 

After  this  affair,  De  Soto  went  to  Darien  with  mes- 
sages to  the  Governor,  and  upon  his  return  found  the 
force  at  Borrica  hemmed  in  by  Uracca's  men.  By  a 
few  masterly  sallies  he  succeeded  in  dispersing  the 
besiegers,  and  while  engaged  in  this  way  was  able  to 
save  the  life  of  one  Micer  Codro,  who  afterward 
returned  the  kindness  by  risking  his  life  for  him. 
Codro  was  an  Italian  scientist  and  astrologer,  who  had 
been  exiled  from  his  native  country  under  the  convic- 
tion of  being  a  magician,  and  had  come  to  America 
when  Don  Pedro's  predecessor,  Vasco  Nunez  de  Bal- 
boa, was  Governor.    Under  this  mild  administration 


46  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

the  student  had  pursued  his  favorite  studies  unmo- 
lested, and  had  won  the  friendship  of  the  natives, 
but  in  the  excitement  of  the  encounter  with  their 
new  foes  they  mistook  him  for  an  enemy,  and  would 
have  killed  him  had  not  De  Soto  interposed.  Although 
he  showed  very  little  gratitude  at  the  time,  being,  as  he 
afterward  expressed  it,  too  much  his  debtor  to  make  a 
sufficient  acknowledgment,  he  later  performed  a  kind- 
ness which  few  men  would  have  dared  to  undertake. 

When  De  Avila  wished  to  send  messages  to  Spain, 
and  was  deliberating  as  to  whom  he  might  intrust 
with  the  valuable  papers,  knowing  too  well  that  none 
of  his  favorites  was  reliable,  he  fixed  upon  the  sim- 
ple-minded Italian. 

Upon  leaving  Spain,  Don  Pedro  had  taken  every 
precaution  to  prevent  any  correspondence  between 
De  Soto  and  his  daughter.  All  letters  were  inter- 
cepted, and  a  violation  of  his  commands  was  punisha- 
ble by  death;  but  Codro  was  willing  to  risk  the 
penalty  that  he  might  in  a  small  way  return  the 
obligation  to  his  friend.  For  five  years  no  communi- 
cation had  passed  between  the  lovers,  and  now  that 
an  opportunity  offered,  De  Soto  feared  to  involve  the 
bearer  of  his  message.  However,  he  was  persuaded 
to  accept  the  favor,  and  intrusted  Micer  Codro  with 
a  letter  to  his  lady-love,  for  whom  he  still  entertained 
feelings  of  the  tenderest  affection.  The  Italian  gladly 
delivered  the  message  to  Donna  Isabella,  receiving  her 
warmest  gratitude  in  return,  and  offered  to  carry 
her  answering  letter;  but  unfortunately  for  those 
concerned,  the  incautious  man  stated,  upon  his  arrival 
at  Badajoz,  that  he  had  a  packet  for  Don  Pedro's 
daughter,  which  aroused  the  suspicion  of.  the  vigilant 
inmates  of  the  castle. 


HERNANDO   DE   SOTO.  47 

The  same  ship  that  carried  Codro  back  to  Darien, 
bore  communications  to  Don  Pedro  convicting  the 
bearer  of  his  letters,  and  virtually  sealing  his  fate. 
Within  a  few  days  after  his  return  he  was  sent  upon 
a  supposed  mineralogical  survey  to  the  gulf  of  San 
Miguel  and  was  never  seen  again.  His  fate  was  even 
unknown  until  after  the  disgraceful  expedition  to 
Nicaragua,  .when  De  Soto  came  by  chance  upon  the 
captain  and  his  crew  whom  Don  Pedro  had  com- 
missioned to  murder  Codro.  These  wretches  were 
boasting  of  the  way  in  which  they  had  tortured  their 
victim,  and  were  laughing  at  his  death  agonies,  when 
De  Soto,  overhearing  the  remarks,  and  burning  with 
revenge,  rushed  upon  the  leader  and  dispatched  him 
with  his  sword.  Then,  turning  to  the  crew,  who 
were  long  accustomed  to  such  violent  sights,  and 
who  were  more  than  half  inclined  to  sympathize  with 
the  avenger,  he  made  such  a  bitter  charge  against 
them  that  they  were  glad  to  escape  without  punish- 
ment. When  Codro  was  expiring,  he  had  declared 
that  his  tormentor  would  soon  f  ollow  him,  and  it  was 
when  the  murderer  was  laughing  at  the  possibility, 
that  De  Soto  came  forward  and  fulfilled,  the  prophecy. 

Some  time  before  this  De  Soto  had  been  sent  by 
the  Governor  to  Nicaragua  in  search  of  a  passage, 
which  was  supposed  to  exist,  connecting  the  two 
oceans.  After  having  explored  seven  hundred  miles 
of  sea  coast  in  a  fruitless  search  for  the  imaginary 
strait,  the  expedition  returned;  but  not  without  some 
recompense,  for  the  rich  country  through  which  they 
had  passed  had  yielded  them  a  magnificent  bounty. 
De  Soto  was  beginning  to  realize  his  ambition.  He 
had  always  maintained  an  independent  attitude  toward 
the  Governor,  but  now  that  he  had  acquired  a  small 


48  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

fortune  he  could  better  afford  to  show  his  indiffer- 
ence. He  was  first  to  acquaint  Don  Pedro  with  the 
fact  that  his  successor,  whom  the  King  of  Spain  hadr 
sent,  was  already  on  the  way  to  Darien.  This  in- 
duced the  guilty  official  to  seek  refuge  in  Nica- 
ragua, for  he  hardly  expected  to  be  treated  with 
more  clemency  than  he  himself  had  shown  toward 
his  predecessor,  and,  once  in  the  neighboring  terri- 
tory, he  could  put  an  end  to  Cordova,  for  whom  he 
entertained  the  strongest  hatred  and  envy.  He  there- 
fore went  to  Leon,  and,  under  pretense  of  good  will, 
sent  messengers  to  acquaint  that  official  of  his  coming. 
He  was  welcomed  in  the  public  square,  where  he 
drew  up  his  soldiers  in  such  order  as  to  presage 
treachery  to  his  kindly  host;  but  this  honest-hearted 
ruler  had  no  fear  of  the  man  from  whom  he  had 
received  his  authority.  Now  that  his  superior  had 
arrived,  he  proceeded  to  extend  the  courtesies  of 
hospitality,  and  to  give  an  account  of  his  own 
administration.  He  had  not  gone  far  in  his  recital 
when  Don  Pedro,  according  to  a  pre-arranged  plan, 
ordered  his  headsman,  who  was  standing  in  readiness, 
to  put  an  end  to  the  unsuspecting  Cordova,  whose 
head  an  instant  later  was  rolling  in  the  dust. 

De  Soto,  who,  with  his  men,  had  taken  a  position 
on  the  side  of  the  square  opposite  to  Don  Pedro  and 
his  guards,  now  spurred  to  desperation  at  sight  of  his 
friend's  murder,  dashed  Avith  drawn  sword  upon  Don 
Pedro  and  would  have  dispatched  him,  had  he  not, 
by  a  sudden  self-mastery,  forborne  for  the  sake  of 
Isabella,  and,  without  a  sign  of  resistance  from  the 
soldiers,  returned  to  his  place.  An  instant  later,  Don 
Pedro,  having  recovered  from  his  momentary  conster- 
nation, called  out:     "  Hernando  De  Soto  you  are 


HERNANDO   DE   SOTO.  49 

ordered  to  dismount  and  submit  yourself  to  the  pun- 
ishment you  have  just  seen  inflicted  upon  your  trait- 
orous comrade.  Soldiers,  drag  him  from  his  horse 
if  he  refuses  to  obey." 

For  a  time  the  men  held  back,  but  one  of  them  at 
last  stepped  forward  in  obedience  to  the  order.  With 
a  powerful  sweep  of  his  sabre  De  Soto  cleaved  his 
helmet  in  twain,  and  Don  Pedro,  seeing  that  to  insist 
would  be  dangerous,  since  he  was  not  supported, 
allowed  the  matter  to  pass. 

By  a  complication  of  circumstances  the  King's  em- 
issary never  landed  at  Darien,  and  reassured,  Don 
Pedro  again  assumed  the  authority  which  he  had  not 
really  given  up.  Pizarro  was  now  projecting  an 
unprovoked  raid  upon  Peru  in  quest  of  gold  and 
glory,  and  was  calling  upon  the  Governor  for  rein- 
forcements. He  desired  especially  the  cooperation  of 
De  Soto,  who,  he  knew,  would  be  a  strong  ally.  The 
proposition  was  submitted  to  De  Soto,  who  unac- 
countably accepted  it,  greatly  to  the  satisfaction  of 
Don  Pedro  and  Pizarro,  but  unfortunately  for  his 
own  good  name.  It  might  be  said  in  defense  of  this 
course,  however,  that  continued  disappointments  had 
driven  the  Spaniard  almost  to  desperation,  and,  uncer- 
tain of  the  future,  he  recklessly  joined  his  fortunes 
with  the  murderous  adventurer  in  the  hope  that  he 
might  be  able  to  acquire  the  wealth  and  renown 
which  was  his  ultimate  and  absorbing  aim. 


CHAPTER  III. 

DE    SOTO    WITH    PIZARRO. 

EAVING  Darien,  we  turn  to  a  new  chap- 
ter in  the  career  of  De  Soto — his  con- 
nection with  Francisco  Pizarro  in  the 
conquest  of  Peru,  which  forms  the  most 
romantic,  if  not  the  most  noteworthy, 
period  of  his  stirring  and  adventurous 
life. 

It  is  possible  that  reference  to  the  expedition  of 
Pizarro  may  not  seem  entirely  consistent  with  one  of 
the  chief  purposes  of  this  volume^  which  is  to  pre- 
sent De  Soto  as  the  discoverer  of  the  Mississippi 
River;  still,  the  narrative  of  his  heroic  deeds  would 
be  incomplete  without  alluding  briefly,  at  least,  to 
that  dark  page  in  his  history,  which,  were  it  possi- 
ble, I  would  gladly  strike  from  his  soldier  escutch- 
eon. 

It  is  not  strange  that  the  invasion  and  conquest  of 
one  of  the  richest  countries  of  South  America  should 
have  presented  some  attractions  to  this  lover  of 
adventure,  nor  that  when  Pizarro  found  himself  con 
fronted  by  overwhelming  numbers  in  the  mountain 
fastnesses  of  Peru,  he  should  have  remembered  the 
gallant  and  chivalrous  De  Soto,  who  had  given  ample 
proof  of  his  soldierly  qualities.  When,  therefore,  he 
urged  the  Governor  to  send  his  captain  forward, 
holding  out  to  that  officer,  meanwhile,  the  promise  of 
second  in  command  in  the  coming  expedition,  he 

(5Q) 


DE   SOTO  WITH   PIZAERO.  51 

Knew  that  the  inducement  would  hardly  fail.  In 
confirmation  of  his  prediction,  De  Soto  started  south- 
ward, soon  afterward,  with  two  ships  and  a  small  but 
strong  force,  in  the  direction  of  the  Island  of  Puna, 
a  strip  of  land  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a 
narrow  channel,  where  Pizarro  had  been  in  possession 
for  a  short  time.  Upon  his  arrival  there,  De  Soto 
found  to  his  surprise  that  the  promise  of  the  lieuten- 
ancy was  only  a  ruse  which  had  been  resorted  to  in 
order  to  secure  his  services,  as  that  position  was 
already  filled  by  Pizarn/s  elder  brother,  Hernando. 
The  honor  only  rested  nominally  upon  the  latter, 
however,  for  from  the  moment  that  De  Soto  entered 
camp  he  was  accorded  the  honors  due  to  his  deserved 
rank,  and  the  general  sentiment  was  never  opposed 
by  Pizarro,  who,  in  his  abject  nature,  did  not  dare  to 
show  any  resentment  toward  a  man  so  vastly  his  supe- 
rior, and  upon  whose  cooperation  he  must  com- 
pletely rely. 

During  his  short  stay  within  the  territory  of  the 
Peruvian  monarch,  ostensibly  to  convert  its  people  to 
Christianity,  all  manner  of  outrages  had  been  com- 
mitted by  Pizarro  and  his  confederates,  and  reports 
of  his  crimes  had  reached  the  mainland  before  the 
coming  of  De  Soto.  It  was  therefore  the  policy  of 
the  commander-in-chief  to  remain  in  the  background, 
while  his  lieutenant,  with  a  small  following,  went  to 
reconnoitre  the  country  and  to  see  what  manner  of 
people  they  would  have  to  encounter.  As  the  rafts 
bearing  the  steel-clad  warriors  were  slowly  pushed 
ashore,  the  natives,  naturally  alarmed  at  the  unusual 
sight,  and  determined  to  put  an  end  to  the  invaders 
who  were  bringing  destruction  to  their  homes,  at- 
tempted to  make  some  resistance;  but  the  invincible 


52  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

Spaniards  soon  gained  the  advantage  and  began 
their  march  toward  Tumbez.  Some  time  previously 
Pizarro  had  visited  this  town,  and  while  craftily 
holding  in  check  his  desire  for  plunder,  in  order  that 
he  might  form  some  idea  of  its  wealth,  had  inspired 
the  hospitable  citizens  with  confidence,  and  had  been 
given  the  freedom  of  a  trusted  friend;  but  the  later 
news  of  his  cruelties  on  the  neighboring  island  had 
given  them  an  idea  of  his  intentions,  so  that  upon 
his  second  visit  he  found  only  abandoned  and  dis- 
mantled houses. 

This  was  a  disappointment  to  the  "conquerors," 
but  they  were  not  limited  in  their  new  field.  With 
an  escort  of  sixty  horsemen  and  twenty  foot  soldiers, 
De  Soto  was  soon  sent  to  explore  the  towns  lying 
farther  in  the  interior.  The  natural  fearlessness  of 
the  man  who,  free  from  the  guilty  motives  that  actu- 
ated his  commander,  could  penetrate  the  lonely  and 
unknown  passes  of  this  South  American  country 
without  forebodings,  won  for  him  the  confidence  and 
good-will  of  the  peaceful  Peruvians.  It  is  not  prob- 
able that  he  believed  he  was  violating  any  moral  law 
in  pursuing  this  course,  nor  that  he  need  expect  any 
resistance  from  the  natives.  The  expedition  was 
approved  by  his  Catholic  Majesty,  the  King  of 
Spain,  and  any  gold  of  which  he  or  his  companions 
might  come  into  possession  was  to  be  obtained  by 
legitimate  means,  for  he  especially  enjoined  his  men 
not  to  commit  any  violence.  In  fact,  everything 
tended  to  give  his  advance  into  the  territories  of  the 
Inca  the  appearance  of  a  peaceful  embassy.  The 
gleam  of  shield  and  sword,  the  grace  of  richly  capari- 
soned steeds,  the  proud  bearing  of  the  helmeted  cava- 
liers, and  the  waving  of  silken  banners  contributed 


DE  SOTO  WITH   PIZARRO.  53 

to  make  the  passing  of  the  glittering  cavalcade  a 
novel  and  awe-inspiring  spectacle;  while  the  lovely- 
scenery  of  Pern,  although  lately  marked  by  the 
demolition  of  civil  war,  in  turn  won  the  admiration 
of  the  Spaniards. 

In  slowly  pursuing  their  course  through  the  narrow 
defiles  and  along  the  fertile  valleys,  De  Soto  and  his 
followers  came  upon  the  great  highway  leading  to 
the  capital  of  the  empire,  which  extended  for  fifteen 
hundred  miles  across  the  varied  passes  of  the  Andes. 
This  stupendous  evidence  of  engineering  skill,  ac- 
complished by  a  comparatively  obscure  people, 
intimated  to  the  Spaniards  the  possible  strength  of 
a  nation  which  they  had  come  to  molest,  and  which, 
had  their  ultimate  aims  been  known,  could  have 
crushed  them  at  a  single  blow.  Like  the  native 
houses,  this  road  had  been  constructed  of  great 
blocks  of  stone,  so  dexterously  fitted  together  as  to 
make  it  appear  one  solid  mass  of  masonry.  Continu- 
ing their  way  upon  this  magnificent  thoroughfare, 
the  adventurers  found  themselves  nearing  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Peruvian  camp,  which  was  located 
about  three  miles  from  the  town  of  Caxamarca.  At 
Guoncabama  they  were  met  by  the  Inca's  envoy, 
bearing  gifts  and  friendly  greetings  to  Pizarro,  and 
were  asked  to  return  with  him  to  their  chief. 
With  some  hesitation,  De  Soto  consented,  retrac- 
ing his  course  to  San  Miguel,  the  town  which 
Pizarro  was  founding,  some  ninety  miles  south  of 
Tumbez. 

It  is  said  that  the  superstitious  Pizarro,  while 
engaged  in  a  close  battle  with  the  Indians  a  short 
time  before,  had  seen  spirits  hovering  in  the  air  above 
the  contesting  ranks;  those  on  his  side  apparently  led 


54  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

by  one  resembling  Saint  Michael,  while  those  of  the 
enemy  represented  the  forces  of  the  Dark  Angel. 

In  the  heat  of  the  encounter,  Saint  Michael  and 
his  host  were  seen  to  meet  and  overcome  the  oppos- 
ing ranks,  which  Pizarro  took  as  a  sign  of  his  own 
triumph.  With  renewed  vigor  the  battle  was  con- 
tinued, the  Spaniard  vowing,  if  his  men  conquered, 
he  would  do  something  in  honor  of  the  friendly 
saint.  The  result  was  the  building  of  a  town  which 
was  to  become  the  center  of  a  large  colony,  and 
whose  patron  was  to  be  San  Miguel. 

Having  entered  its  walls,  the  Inca's  envoy,  with 
all  the  ceremony  of  an  ostentatious  court,  delivered 
the  greetings  and  gifts  of  his  Sovereign  to  the  Spanish 
general;  but  Pizarro,  notwithstanding  these  tokens 
of  amity,  suspected  Attahuallapa  of  treachery,  and 
feared  to  be  drawn  into  some  snare. 

De  Soto's  report  of  the  magnificence  of  the  larger 
towns  through  which  he  had  passed,  and  the  friend- 
liness of  the  people,  in  a  measure  reassured  him,  and 
more  effectually  aroused  his  craving  for  plunder,  for 
during  De  Soto's  absence  he  had  conceived  a  design 
to  seize  the  Inca  in  his  own  stronghold,  and  to  assume 
control  of  the  rich  dominions  which  would  thus  fall 
into  his  victorious  hand.  These  designs  had  not  been 
made  known  to  De  Soto,  who,  he  knew,  would  have 
rejected  them.  It  was  therefore  innocently  that 
his  lieutenant  conducted  him  to  the  presence  of  the 
Peruvian  ruler,  and  in  the  name  of  the  King  of  Spain 
besought  an  interview. 

The  first  meeting  of  the  Inca  and  De  Soto  was  a 
noble  sight,  and  one  which  the  historian  has  delighted 
to  describe.  On  the  wide  plain  beyond  Caxamarca 
stretched    the  tents  of   the    Indian  army — a  force 


(55) 


56  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

numbered  by  thousands — with  the  gorgeous  pavilion 
of  the  Inca  in  their  midst;  and  here,  sheltered  by 
his  protecting  legions,  the  Indian  ruler  awaited  the 
approach  of  the  Spaniard.  When  within  a  few 
paces  of  the  Inca,  partly  out  of  respect  to  the  dignity 
of  his  presence,  and  partly  to  lessen  the  fears  of  the 
attendants,  who  were  unable  to  emulate  the  proud 
indifference  of  their  King  at  sight  of  the  spirited 
white  horse  which  the  stranger  rode,  that  gallant 
cavalier  dismounted,  and  advanced  to  offer  his  salu- 
tations. 

In  reply  to  his  request  that  Pizarro  be  granted  an 
audience,  the  Inca  appointed  the  next  day,  and,  as 
De  Soto  noticed  during  their  conversation  that 
Attahuallapa  betrayed  some  interest  in  the  restless 
movements  of  the  horse,  which  had  been  left  in 
charge  of  an  attendant,  he  mounted  and  performed 
several  equestrian  feats,  greatly  to  the  astonish- 
ment and  terror  of  the  awed  retainers.  This  over, 
De  Soto  retired,  bearing  the  royal  message  to  Pizarro. 

It  was  not  until  late  in  the  afternoon  of  November 
sixteenth,  1532,  that  the  Inca,  with  his  splendid 
cortege,  approached  the  public  square  of  Caxamarca, 
the  place  which  had  been  agreed  upon  for  the 
meeting.  Already  the  body  of  armed  warriors, 
drawn  up  in  imposing  array,  awaited  his  coming. 
Attahuallapa,  dressed  in  the  gorgeous  robes  of  his 
office,  his  handsome  head  bound  in  the  variegated 
turban  from  which  hung  the  scarlet  tassel,  the  insignia 
of  his  rank,  his  pensive  features  standing  out  in 
striking  contrast  against  the  glittering  palanquins 
presented  an  impressive  and  suggestive  spectacle  to 
the  Spaniards. 

Friar  Vincent,  Pizarro's  spiritual  adviser,  and  the 


D£  SOTO  WITH   PIZARltO.  5t 

chief  among  the  missionary  band,  so-called,  now 
advanced  toward  the  King  with  upheld  crucifix,  and 
in  the  language  of  his  priestly  office  exhorted  him  to 
embrace  the  Catholic  faith,  presenting  some  of  its 
doctrines,  and  saying  that  it  was  for  this  that  his 
countrymen  had  entered  the  Peruvian  territories. 

The  abruptness  and  strangeness  of  the  address 
somewhat  surprised  Attahnallapa,  who,  with  becom- 
ing firmness,  refused  to  relinquish  the  religion  of  his 
fathers,  and  awaited  the  further  pleasure  of  his 
inexplicable  guests.  Friar  Vincent  immediately  re- 
ported his  non-success  to  Pizarro,  and,  incensed  at 
the  proud  bearing  of  the  Peruvian,  encouraged  his 
master  to  set  upon  the  obstinate  unbelievers.  The 
time  for  action  had  come.  If  the  opportunity  were 
lost,  the  Spaniards  might  be  surrounded  and  an- 
nihilated, for  their  leader  well  knew  that  his  out- 
rages would,  sooner  or  later,  raise  rebellion.  In  a 
moment  the  square  was  a  battle-ground,  the  Peruvian 
retainers,  filled  with  consternation,  and  defenseless, 
were  being  hewn  down,  or  attempting  to  escape  th? 
massacre;  the  bearers  of  the  royal  palanquin  were 
giving  way  before  the  deadly  swords  of  their  assailants, 
and  the  Inca  was  at  the  mercy  of  Pizarro  and  Ins 
men.  A  body  of  desperate  Indians  had  burst  through 
the  stone  inclosure  of  the  square  and  were  fleeing 
toward  the  distant  tents,  hotly  pursued  by  a  body  of 
horsemen;  but  their  object  gained,  the  troops  were 
recalled  and  the  carnage  stopped. 

What  part  De  Soto  took  in  this  perfidious  affair 
has  not  been  recorded.  With  the  friendly  feeling  he 
entertained  for  Attahuallapa,  it  is  not  probable  that  he 
would  enter  into  any  conspiracy  against  him,  or  that 
he  would  countenance  such  a  breach  of  military  honor. 


58  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

If  he  was  a  witness  of  the  scene,  and  made  no  attempt 
to  prevent  it,  this  is  the  darkest  accusation  that  can  be 
brought  against  him,  but  his  subsequent  kindness  to 
the  outraged  monarch  would  seem  to  deny  even  this. 

During  the  dark  days  that  followed,  De  Soto  made 
frequent  visits  to  the  captive,  and  Attahuallapa,  rec- 
ognizing his  superior  qualities  and  sense  of  honor, 
soon  gave  him  his  cofidence.  Through  De  Soto  the 
agreement  was  drawn  up  by  which  the  Inca  was  to  be 
released  upon  the  payment  of  the  fabulous  sum  which, 
in  his  desperation,  he  had  offered.  This  ransom, 
consisting  of  two  rooms  closely  filled  with  gold  and 
silver  ornaments,  taken  from  temple  and  home,  was 
gladly  given  by  the  faithful  Peruvians  for  the  return 
of  their  Sovereign,  whom  they  reverenced  almost  to 
idolatry;  but  even  this  did  not  satisfy  Pizarro.  He 
feared  to  release  Attahuallapa,  as  he  might,  when 
returned  to  his  people,  excite  their  sense  of  injustice. 
He  therefore  notified  his  officers  of  his  intentions 
upon  the  Inca's  life,  which  he  had  long  determined 
to  take,  giving  as  his  reason  the  involved  position  of 
the  Spanish  troops,  and  hinting  that  the  Peruvians 
were  already  preparing  for  an  attack. 

De  Soto,  who  felt  that  his  honor,  as  well  as  that  of 
Pizarro,  was  at  stake,  had  been  continually  urging 
Attahuallapa's  release,  and  refused  to  believe  the 
report  of  an  uprising;  but  Pizarro  with  his  usual  cun- 
ning, suggested  that  his  incredulous  lieutenant  take 
a  body  of  horse  and  reconnoitre  that  part  of  the  coun- 
try supposed  to  be  the  gathering  place  of  the  enemy's 
forces.  This  De  Soto  undertook  without  delay,  hop- 
ing the  sooner  to  set  the  prisoner  at  liberty;  while 
Pizarro,  relieved  of  his  presence,  prepared  to  carry 
out  his  terrible  purpose. 


DE  SOTO  WITH   PIZARRO.  59 

The  Inca  once  out  of  the  way,  the  Peruvians  would 
be  thrown  into  a  state  of  confusion,  thus  making  the 
seizure  of  the  capital  easy,  and  safety  assured  for 
the  "Christian  missionaries." 

When  Attahuallapa  was  informed  of  his  fate,  he 
seemed  overcome  by  its  cruelty,  and  called  excitedly 
for  his  friend  De  Soto,  who  he  hoped  might  mitigate 
the  sentence;  but  Pizarro  mockingly  informed  him 
that  De  Soto  was  far  away  and  powerless  to  lend 
him  any  assistance.  Although  he  had  received  very 
little  encouragement,  he  confidently  believed  that 
Pizarro  would  keep  his  promise  and  treat  him  honor- 
ably. The  sudden  crushing  of  his  hopes  was  there- 
fore doubly  cruel. 

The  execution  was  arranged  to  take  place  at  night- 
fall, and  the  soldiers,  bearing  torches,  were  called 
together  at  a  given  signal  from  their  leader.  The 
Inca,  his  wretched  captivity  about  to  end,  was  once 
more  led  out  under  the  open  sky,  shackled  hand 
and  foot,  and  bound  to  the  stake.  Friar  Vincent 
approached  and  again  exhorted  him  to  embrace  the 
faith  of  Eome,  with  the  promise  that  the  manner  of 
his  death  would  be  mitigated  by  the  act;  but  to  this 
hypocritical  appeal  Attahuallapa  refused  to  listen, 
accepting  his  fate  with  courageous  firmness. 

De  Soto,  soon  returning  from  his  fruitless  expedi- 
tion, found  the  Inca  dead  and  the  Spaniards  plan- 
ning to  take  possession  of  his  dominions.  His  grief 
and  anger  knew  no  bounds.  Going  to  Pizarro's  tent, 
he  bitterly  accused  him  of  the  murder  and  threatened 
to  report  the  crime  to  the  King  of  Spain;  then 
throwing  down  his  glove  in  the  presence  of  those  who 
had  heard  his  accusation,  he  challenged  them  to  deny 
the  guilt  of  their  chief.     Receiving  no  response,  he 


60  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

turned  and  left  the  tent,  with  mingled  feelings  of 
hatred  and  remorse.  The  fact  that  he  should  have 
joined  them  afterward  in  their  march  toward  Cuzco 
seems  strangely  inconsistent;  hut  to  abandon  his 
countrymen  in  their  hour  of  peril  would  have  appeared 
cowardly,  and  Hernando  De  Soto  was  not  the  one  to 
retreat. 

The  advance  upon  the  capital  brought  ruin  and 
desolation  to  the  villages  along  the  route,  for  while 
De  Soto,  with  his  stout-hearted  band,  was  hurrying 
forward,  sparing  always  private  property,  while  occa-. 
sionally  plundering  the  temples  and  shrines,  Pizarro, 
with  his  freebooters,  was  pillaging  and  plundering  in 
every  direction.  In  this  way  the  road  was  cleared, 
and  the  attacks  of  the  natives  repulsed  by  the  swords  of 
De  Soto's  men,  while  Pizarro  reaped  the  benefits.  In 
the  meantime,  Tapaxpa,  the  grief-stricken  son  of 
Attahuallapa,  had  been  seized  and  declared  his 
father's  successor,  that  Pizarro  might  still  hold  the 
Inca  in  his  power.  Another  captive  was  one  of 
the  most  influential  of  the  nobility,  a  man  trusted 
and  loved  by  the  Peruvians,  whom  Pizarro  guarded  and 
declared  to  be  held  as  a  hostage,  threatening  to  put 
him  to  death  at  the  first  sign  of  rebellion  from  the 
people.  This  unfortunate  victim,  upon  a  slight  out- 
break during  the  march  toward  Cuzco,  was  notified 
that  his  end  was  near,  and  was  tendered  the  consola- 
tions of  the  church;  but  this  offer  presented  no  attrac- 
tions to  one  who  had  suffered  such  injustice  at  the 
hands  of  its  fanatical  devotees,  and  he  told  them  that 
he  did  not  understand  their  religion,  and  all  he  had 
seen  of  it  had  not  impressed  him  favorably. 

When  within  a  short  distance  of  the  capital,  De 
Soto's  troop   was  assailed   by  a  desperate   band   of 


DE   SOTO   WITH    PIZARRO.  61 

Peruvians,  who  had  taken  a  position  on  high  ground 
above  the  pass  through  which  the  Spaniards  were 
moving,  and  who  determined  to  make  a  last  effort  to 
destroy  their  enemies.  Stones  were  hurled  from  the 
overhanging  cliffs,  and  showers  of  arrows  sent  clash- 
ing down  upon  the  steel  armor  of  horse  and  rider, 
but  De  Soto  quickly  dashed  up  the  steep  defile,  and, 
once  on  the  level  plain,  routed  the  enemy.  The 
news  of  defeat  was  soon  spread,  and,  having  lost  all 
hope,  the  Peruvians  hurried  to  the  city  and  applied 
the  torch  to  every  wall.  As  the  conquering  army 
approached,  they  saw  its  palaces  and  temples  in 
flames  and  its  inhabitants  vanished.  Hurrying 
hither  and  thither,  they  attempted  to  rescue  part  of 
the  gold  and  silver  which  had  not  been  carried  away, 
but  the  conflagration  was  too  great,  and  the  splendid 
treasures  of  the  Inca  were  lost  in  the  ruins. 

The  conquest  of  Peru  accomplished,  and  his  desire 
for  gold  thoroughly  satisfied,  De  Soto  now  turned 
with  renewed  craving  to  the  peaceful  confines  of 
Spain,  and  to  the  long-delayed  meeting  with  Donna 
Isabella.  He,  therefore,  prepared  to  return,  that  he 
might  claim  the  hand  of  his  lady-love,  and  share  with 
her  his  splendid  fortune.  A  good  share  of  Attahual- 
lapa's  ransom  had  fallen  to  him,  and  he  had  accepted 
it  rather  than  allow  it  go  go  into  the  hands  of  Pizarro. 
While  following  the  fortunes  of  his  associates  in  Peru, 
he  neems  to  have  attempted  in  a  degree  the  moderation 
of  1  heir  terrible  deeds,  and  the  upholding  of  his  coun- 
try's honor.  That  he  did  not  do  so  more  effectually 
is  the  one  great  reproach  which  humanity  raises 
against  him;  the  one  great  blemish  upon  an  other- 
wise admirable  and  chivalrous  career. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

DISCOVERY   OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI. 

WO  years  of  luxury  and  inactivity  in  Spain 
after  the  hardships  of  the  Peruvian  ex- 
pedition, had  satisfied  the  restless  spirit 
of  De  Soto,  and  quite  exhausted  the 
wealth  which  he  had  accumulated. 

Unsparingly  the  golden  treasure  of 
the  Inca  had  been  given  in  exchange  for 
the  extravagances  which  attracted  the  wealthier 
grandees,  and  the  envied  cavalier  again  found  it  neces- 
sary to  seek  his  fortune  beyond  the  sea.  While  he  was 
still  in  South  America  with  Pizarro,  Don  Pedro  had 
died,  leaving  the  greater  share  of  his  wealth  for  the 
erection  of  a  convent,  over  which  his  elder  daughter 
was  appointed  abbess,  and  disinheriting  his  former 
favorite  on  account  of  her  faithful  attachment  to  Don 
Hernando,  for  whom,  to  the  last,  he  entertained  the 
strongest  dislike.  Isabella  was  therefore  unable  to 
follow  her  generous  impulses  and  avoid  another 
separation. 

At  this  time  all  Europe  was  stirred  by  the  tales  of 
Cabega  de  Vaca,  one  of  the  adventurers  who  had 
escaped  the  fate  of  his  companions  under  Narvaez  in 
Florida,  and  who  suggested  to  his  credulous  country- 
men untold  regions  of  gold  in  the  chimerical  El 
Dorado.  His  words  had  magical  effect.  Immedi- 
ately the   rich  fields  of  North  America  were  the 

(6?) 


DISCOVEKY  OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  6d 

engrossing  topic,  the  cynosure  of  ambitious  fortune- 
seekers.  Very  naturally,  De  Soto  came  into  promi- 
nence, and  was  soon  known  to  be  contemplating  an 
expedition  thither.  He  believed  that  he  would  find 
an  easier  road  to  fortune  in  the  land  which  De  Vaca 
had  described  than  in  the  mountains  of  Peru,  and 
he  accordingly  appealed  to  King  Charles  V.,  offering 
to  meet  all  expenses  and  to  reserve  a  fifth  of  the 
treasure  for  the  crown  if  His  Majesty  would  sanction 
the  undertaking. 

With  admirable  generosity,  Charles  gave  his  con- 
sent, offering  his  zealous  subject  the  governorship  of 
Cuba,  with  other  high-sounding  dignities,  and  grant- 
ing him  an  estate,  with  the  title  of  Adelantado,  in 
Florida.  Enthusiastic  knights  from  every  direction 
now  hastened  to  place  themselves  under  the  leader- 
ship of  De  Soto,  and  to  make  preparations  for  their 
voyage.  The  magnificence  of  the  equipments  was  in 
accordance  with  their  inflated  ideas,  representing 
vast  sums  of  money,  and  appearing  more  suitable  for 
a  triumphal  march  through  the  reputed  land  of  gold, 
than  for  the  toilsome  and  dangerous  campaigns  which 
were  actually  to  be  endured. 

The  passage  of  De  Soto  and  his  followers  through 
her  streets,  en  route  to  the  ships,  formed  probably 
the  most  brilliant  pageant  which  the  citizens  of  San 
Lncar  had  ever  witnessed. 

With  waving  pennants,  and  decks  glittering  with 
the  armor  of  nine  hundred  knights,  the  fleet  moved 
slowly  out  of  port,  taking  a  southerly  course  in  the 
direction  of  the  Canary  Isles.  Within  two  weeks 
they  cast  anchor  at  Gromera,  sailing  from  thence  to 
San  Iago  de  Cuba,  which  was  reached  toward  the 
latter  part  of  May.    As  the  distance  lessened  between 


64  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

them  and  their  El  Dorado,  the  adventurers,  impa- 
tient of  delay,  urged  the  termination  of  the  voyage; 
and  De  Soto,  equally  eager,  hastened  forward  to 
Havana,  where  final  arrangements  were  to  be  made. 
Two  brigantines  were  sent  out  from  here  to  discover 
the  most  practicable  route  for  the  expedition,  and 
upon  their  return  knight  and  lady  bade  adieu;  the 
great  band  of  explorers,  now  ten  hundred  strong, 
were  animated  with  the  hope  of  their  future  achieve- 
ments, while  Isabella  having  been  appointed  regent 
during  the  Governor's  absence,  assumed  the  responsi- 
bilities of  the  office  with  many  sad  forebodings. 

Seven  days  later,  on  Whitsunday,  1539,  the  fleet 
reached  the  quiet  waters  of  Tampa  Bay,  which  they 
named  Espirito  Santo,  in  honor  of  the  day.  Here 
they  met  the  first  opposition.  On  the  high  hills 
along  the  shore  the  beacons  of  the  unknown  natives 
were  sending  out  a  menacing  signal,  and  De  Soto, 
wishing  to  avoid  any  unnecessary  encounter,  pru- 
dently made  a  landing  two  leagues.beyond.  A  march 
of  a  few  miles  through  the  enchanted  wilderness, 
gorgeous  in  its  luxuriant  tangles  of  tropical  vegeta- 
tion, brought  the  Spaniards  to  an  abandoned  village, 
the  home  of  the  Indian  chief  Ucita,  where  the  first 
encampment  was  made.  Here,  instead  of  the  rude 
dwellings  of  the  northern  tribes,  they  found  houses 
of  wood,  some  of  them  adorned  with  hangings  of 
finely  cured  and  handsomely  colored  skins,  with  floor 
mats  of  the  same  soft  texture;  while  the  dwelling  of 
the  cacique,  standing  apart  upon  a  little  eminence, 
bore  traces  of  being  more  fancifully  arranged  than 
the  rest. 

As  soon  as  he  had  taken  possession  of  this  con- 
venient camp,  De   Soto   sent   messengers   to   Ucita 


DISCOVERY   OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  65 

stating  the  peaceful  object  of  his  journey,  and  asking 
for  his  friendship;  but  the  chief  ignored  these  ad- 
vances, and  kept  his  whereabouts  a  secret. 

Unfortunately  for  those  who  were  to  follow  him, 
Narvaez  had  thoroughly  antagonized  the  natives 
through  whose  territories  he  had  passed,  and  had 
aroused  in  them  a  stubborn  and  bitter  hatred.  Wher- 
ever he  had  gone  he  had  given  fresh  cause  for  revenge, 
and  to  the  chief  whose  good-will  De  Soto  was  now 
seeking,  he  had  offered  the  most  shocking  atrocities. 
It  was  therefore  useless  to  remain  longer  at  this 
point,  with  the  hope  of  receiving  any  information  or 
of  obtaining  guides.  Troops  were  sent  out  in  every 
direction  to  reconnoitre.  One  of  these  parties,  upon 
leaving  camp,  came  upon  a  body  of  Indians,  who, 
frightened  at  the  appearance  of  the  strangers,  ran 
into  the  woods.  One  of  their  number,  however, 
remained  in  sight,  and,  advancing,  made  the  sign  of 
the  cross,  greatly  to  the  astonishment  of  the  Span- 
iards. When  the  mysterious  figure  reached  them,  they 
learned  that  he  was  Juan  Ortiz,  a  survivor  of  the 
Narvaez  expedition,  who  had  been  captured  by  the 
Indians,  and,  after  suffering  many  persecutions  at  the 
hands  of  his  captors,  had  finally  escaped  and  received 
the  protection  of  a  friendly  chief. 

After  hearing  the  story  of  their  countryman's 
adventures,  and  rejoicing  in  his  recovery,  the  men 
anxiously  questioned  him  concerning  the  reputed 
gold  fields.  But  Ortiz,  having  been  confined  to  the 
limits  of  a  single  tribe,  was  neither  able  to  give  them 
any  information  nor  to  act  as  their  guide.  Upon 
finding  no  sign  of  the  coveted  treasure,  and  dis- 
couraged by  the  hardships  which  had  already  been 
met  with,  De  Soto  sent  the  ships  back  go  Cuba,  and 


66  EAKLY   EXPLORERS. 

planned  a  march  toward  the  north.  Hunger  had 
already  begun  to  threaten  the  band,,  but,  finding 
occasional  fields  of  maize,  and  here  and  there  a  fertile 
stretch  of  country,  the  men  bravely  advanced  under 
the  leadership  of  their  dauntless  captain,  baffling 
native  treachery,  and  encountering  the  difficulties  of 
swamp  and  forest,  where  their  lives  were  continually 
in  jeopardy. 

Still  led  on  by  rumors  of  gold,  De  Soto  and  his 
followers  reached  the  domain  of  Vitachuco,  the 
cacique  whose  stratagem  brought  about  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  episodes  in  the  history  of  the 
expedition.  This  Indian,  harboring  a  deadly  revenge 
against  the  Spaniards,  notwithstanding  the  passive 
tolerance  of  his  brother  chiefs,  determined  to  annihi- 
late the  invaders  when  he  should  have  them  in  his 
power.  Under  the  guise  of  friendship  he  invited 
them  to  his  village,  and  while  showing  them  every 
attention  formed  a  plot  for  their  destruction  as  ingen- 
ious as  it  was  deadly. 

On  an  appointed  day  the  Spaniards  were  to  be 
invited  to  witness  some  maneuvers  of  Vitachuco's 
warriors,  the  Indian  weapons  to  be  concealed  in  the 
long  grass,  and  at  a  given  signal  from  the  chief,  the 
conspirators  were  to  seize  the  hidden  arms  and  rush 
upon  their  defenseless  guests — Vitachuco,  with  twelve 
chosen  braves,  to  single  out  the  leader.  De  Soto, 
having  been  warned  by  the  faithful  Ortiz,  was  pre- 
pared to  meet  the  forces  of  the  enemy  on  their  own 
ground,  and  when  the  fatal  day  arrived  accepted  the 
invitation  of  the  chief  with  evident  pleasure.  The 
scene  of  conflict,  as  the  old  historians  describe  it,  was 
a  magnificent  one.  Out  on  the  sunny  plain  stretched 
the  long  line  of  warriors  drawn  up  in  martial  array, 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  67 

their  treacherous  weapons  hidden  in  the  long  grass; 
while  opposite,  De  Soto,  with  his  followers,  was 
watching  with  intent  gaze  the  dexterous  movements 
of  the  Indians,  and  waiting  for  the  cacique's  signal. 
In  an  instant  the  warning  came.  With  the  swiftness 
of  eagles  the  traitorous  band  closed  upon  the  Span- 
iards; but  finding,  to  their  astonishment,  that  they 
must  deal  with  a  force  as  carefully  armed  and  as 
fully  prepared  as  themselves,  their  onset  was  soon 
repulsed. 

Leaving  Vitachuco,  the  expedition  moved  on  toward 
the  north  until  the  Great  Morass  was  reached;  thence 
to  the  southwest  toward  Appalachee  Bay,  where  the 
boats  from  Cuba  were  met  and  sent  westward  in 
search  of  a  favorable  port.  The  march  was  then 
directed  toward. the  northeast,  where  there  was  a 
region  abounding  in  pearls  and  gold,  whose  Sovereign 
was  the  gentle  and  amiable  Queen  called  by  the  old 
chroniclers  "  the  Ladie  of  the  Countree."  The  Span- 
iards seem  to  have  received  every  kindness  at  her 
hands,  and  to  have  found  a  fabulous  amount  of  pearls 
of  high  value,  and  yet  they  kept  the  "  ladie"  as  a 
hostage,  it  is  said,  to  insure  the  non-resistance  of  her 
people.  Under  some  pretext,  however,  she  effected 
her  escape,  a  gallant  Spaniard  disappearing  at  the 
same  time,  and  upon  this  episode  a  Southern  writer 
has  woven  his  romantic  tale  of  "  Andres  Vasconselos." 

Still  deceived  by  the  misrepresentations  of  their 
guides,  and  by  the  finding  of  the  pearls,  the  travelers 
pursued  their  ignis-fatuus  through  the  fields  of 
South  Carolina,  Georgia,  and  Alabama,  whither  it 
led  them  many  a  weary  march.  Then  turning  south- 
ward they  reached  Mauvilla,  from  which  the  present 
town  of  Mobile  probably  derived  its  name.     Here 


68  EARLY    EXPLORERS. 

their  slaves  were  captured  and  the  pearls  lost  with 
them,  but  De  Soto,  determined  to  avenge  the  robbery, 
made  a  violent  attack  upon  the  place,  setting  fire  to 
the  houses  in  which  his  valuable  treasures  were  con- 
sumed. Here  also  the  ships  sent  from  Appalachee 
were  heard  from,  but  for  various  reasons  De  Soto  did 
not  wish  to  have  their  arrival  known.  He  had  hoped 
to  send  back  to  Cuba  glowing  accounts  of  the  country 
and  to  make  presents  of  pearls  and  gold,  but  both 
these  plans  had  become  impossible.  He  feared,  too, 
if  those  who  were  with  him  once  saw  the  means  of 
abandoning  the  enterprise,  they  would  leave  him 
powerless  to  advance,  for  with  the  disheartening 
opposition  which  he  had  met  during  eighteen 
months,  the  courageous  spirit  of  De  Soto  was  still 
unwilling  to  acknowledge  failure.  Having,  therefore, 
planned  the  course  he  would  pursue,  he  held  no  com- 
munication with  Maldonado,  the  captain  of  the 
ships,  but  turned  resolutely  away,  "determined  to 
send  no  news  of  himself  until  he  had  found  some 
rich  country." 

After  waiting  many  weeks  for  some  sign  of  the 
expedition,  Maldonado  returned  to  Cuba,  where  the 
Governor  and  those  who  were  with  him  were  lamented 
as  dead. 

In  the  meanwhile,  De  Soto  was  taking  a  north- 
westerly course  through  the  fields  and  forests  of  what 
is  now  the  flourishing  State  of  Mississippi,  and  slowly 
approaching  that  Great  Stream  with  which  his  destiny 
became  so  closely  linked.  As  he  advanced,  the  In- 
dians became  more  hostile,  contesting  the  way  with 
arrow  and  tomahawk  and  harassing  the  encampment 
at  night.  His  men,  too,  were  discontented,  having 
seen   hundreds   of    their  companions    perish    from 


DISCOVERY    OF   THE    MISSISSIPPI.  69 

exposure  and  violence,  and  having  found  no  recom- 
pense for  their  wearisome  marches.  Yet  under  these 
embarrassments  the  intrepid  cavalier  led  them  on, 
apparently  stimulated  by  defeat  and  strengthened  by 
difficulty. 

At  last  the  shores  of  the  Mississippi  were  reached, 
it  is  conjectured,  between  the  thirty-fifth  and 
thirty-sixth  parallels  of  latitude,  a  few  miles  below 
Memphis.  What  impression  the  river  made  upon 
De  Soto  and  his  companions  as  they  came  suddenly 
upon  it  can  only  be  imagined.  It  was  then,  as 
it  is  now,  a  turbulent  flood,  whirling  along  on  its 
muddy  surface  a  mass  of  logs  and  driftwood  from 
the  forest  banks  above,  where  the  white  man  was 
unknown  and  the  Indian  was  still  monarch.  They 
had  found  nothing  in  all  their  wanderings  that 
would  compare  with  it,  no  valley  enriched  by  so  dig- 
nified a  stream,  so  they  named  it  Rio  Grande. 

Finding  it  thus  unexpectedly,  the  Great  River  no 
doubt  had  its  effect  upon  the  minds  of  the  explorers, 
who,  notwithstanding  repeated  disappointments, 
could  yet  find  something  in  the  hidden  regions  of  an 
unknown  country  to  stimulate  their  energies.  In- 
stead therefore  of  turning  back  when  this  new  bar- 
rier crossed  their  way,  rafts  were  built  and  the  entire 
company  carried  to  the  other  side.  Parties  were  then 
sent  hither  and  thither  to  explore  the  country  and  to 
inquire  after  the  "  yellow  metal/'  but  the  interpret- 
ers gave  them  the  old  response — gold  could  be  found 
farther  on  in  the  mountains  to  the  west.  Still 
deceived  and  suspected  by  the  Indians,  who  onl\ 
wished  to  be  rid  of  them,  the  Spaniards  passed  over 
miles  of  that  great  Western  country  which  remained 
a  wilderness  long  after  their  feet  had  penetrated  its 


70  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

solitudes;  occasionally  finding  a  friendly  chief,  or  a 
rich  section,  where  the  confident  De  Soto  would  lay 
plans  for  the  establishment  of  a  powerful  and  wealthy 
colony.  So  amid  repeated  discouragements  and 
fruitless  wanderings  the  expedition  reached  again  the 
"  Father  of  Waters,"  whence  a  few  months  before  they 
had  started  forth  reanimated. 

De  Soto,  the  ever  buoyant  leader,  teeming  with 
new  schemes  and  always  ready  to  face  difficulties, 
now  began  to  give  way  to  an  irresistible  despondency. 
All  of  his  hopes  were  vanished,  his  health  was  under- 
mined by  continued  hardship,  and  those  about  him 
were  impatient  to  return  to  Cuba. 

Seeing  his  further  efforts  unavailing,  he  decided 
upon  returning  to  the  coast,  and  accordingly  sent  a 
party  down  the  stream  to  make  investigations;  but 
they  could  get  no  information,  and  the  canebrakes 
and  other  obstructions  met  with  in  the  tortuous 
descent  delayed  their  progress. 

A  low  fever  began  to  waste  his  strength  and  he  had 
no  power  to  resist  it.  So  lay  the  Chevalier  De  Soto 
upon  his  death-bed,  broken  in  body  and  spirit,  and  un- 
conscious of  the  great  part  he  was  to  play  in  the  history 
of  the  river,  within  sight  of  whose  shores  he  expired. 

On  the  twenty-first  of  May,  1542,  he  called  those 
who  remained  of  his  brave  band  about  him,  to  give 
them  his  last  messages  and  to  appoint  his  successor. 

There  has  been  much  conjecture  regarding  the 
death  of  De  Soto,  some  historians  expressing  a  con- 
viction of  foul  play,  and  bringing  together  circum- 
stantial evidence  to  confirm  it;  but  whether  or  not 
their  surmises  were  correct  must  ever  remain  a  mys- 
tery. 

After  dark  on  the  day  of  his  death,  the  burial  rites 


<m 


72  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

were  performed  upon  the  shore  of  the  river,  but, 
finding  that  Indians  visited  the  spot  the  next  day,  mak- 
ing strange  signs,  they  feared  to  leave  the  remains, 
lest  they  should  be  disinterred  and  subjected  to  dis- 
honor. The  cacique  who  had  accompanied  them  on 
their  journey  also  asked  where  the  white  chief  was, 
and  they,  thinking,  if  his  death  were  known,  some 
assault  would  be  made,  replied  that  he  had  gone  to 
Heaven  to  confer  with  the  Great  Spirit,  and  would 
soon  return  to  lead  them  to  the  land  of  gold.  At 
midnight,  under  pretense  of  going  to  fish,  they 
exhumed  the  body,  and,  cutting  a  place  for  it  in  the 
trunk  of  a  live-oak,  carried  it  out  into  the  middle  of 
the  stream,  and  there  in  silence  lowered  it  to  its  last 
resting  place. 

With  no  one  of  Don  Hernando's  force  to  stimulate 
and  encourage,  the  band  was  soon  disorganized  and 
scattered  in  different  directions;  the  greater  number 
starting  toward  the  Southwest  in  search  of  a  Spanish 
colony  said  to  have  been  founded  upon  the  shores  of 
the  Gulf.  With  the  energy  of  desperate  men  they 
launched  their  small  fleet  of  rudely  constructed  boats 
once  more  upon  the  open  sea,  sometimes  overtaken  by 
storms  and  driven  ashore,  sometimes  injured  by  rocks, 
until  at  last  they  reached  the  flourishing  little  Mex- 
ican town  of  Panuco.  Here  they  were  received  as 
those  returned  from  the  dead,  and  were  soon  given 
an  opportunity  to  reach  their  home  and  friends. 
Others  tried  to  return  to  Cuba  by  another  route,  and 
either  miserably  perished  on  the  way  or  were  never 
heard  from;  so  that  of  all  the  brilliant  company 
which  sailed  from  Havana  three  years  before,  only 
a  remnant  was  left  to  tell  the  tale  of  suffering  and 
disappointment. 


DISCOVERY   OF   THE   MISSISSIPPI. 


73 


De  Soto,  whose  enterprise  had  been  looked  upon 
as  a  magnificent  venture,  destined,  perhaps,  to  change 
the  financial  condition  of  Spain,  and  to  establish  her 
jurisdiction  in  a  new  and  rich  country,  was  now  con- 
sidered as  a  man  who  had  perished  in  a  worthless 
cause;  whose  early  triumphs  were  shadowed  by  fail- 
ure. 

The  planting  of  the  cross  upon  the  banks  of  the 
great  North  American  River  had  not  attained  the  sig- 
nificance which  later  chroniclers  ascribed  to  it,  and 
investigation  had  not  yet  been  sufficiently  thorough  to 
attach  importance  to  the  event.  Time,  however, 
has,  in  a  measure,  thrown  light  upon  the  page  of 
history,  and  has  done  justice  to  the  Early  Explorers, 
not  least  among  whom  is  the  brave  knight  and 
Christian  gentleman,  Don  Hernando  De  Soto.  To 
him  falls  the  honor  of  the  discovery  of  the  Missis- 
sippi— the  noble  "  Father  of  Waters." 


Juan  Ortiz  the. India^Captiyi 


CHAPTER  V. 

MARQUETTE    AND    JOLIET. 

EFORE  Columbus  opened  a  new  field  for 
exploration  on  the  Western  Continent, 
Europe  had  been  speculating  upon  a 
possible  route  to  Asia  and  the  East 
through  untried  channels.  What  lay 
beyond  the  .  great  ocean,  and  whither 
would  it  lead  the  venturesome  mariner, 
were  questions  already  being  asked  by 
those  progressive  spirits,  whose  queries  in  all  ages  have 
inspired  the  scientist  and  the  explorer. 

When,  in  the  attempt  to  solve  the  important  prob- 
lem, the  shores  of  a  new  country  were  accidentally 
discovered,  the  excitement  which  this  created  for  a 
time  banished  the  original  motive;  but,  as  explora- 
tion began  in  turn  to  be  directed  toward  the  unknown 
regions  of  America,  zealous  adventurers  hoped  to  find 
the  fancied  channel  within  its  boundaries. 

From  the  Canadian  settlements  along  the  Saint 
Lawrence  those  daring  expeditions  were  first  projected 
which  began  the  spread  of  the  Gospel  among  the 
savage  tribes  of  the  West;  and  which,  placing  within 
the  knowledge  of  men  untraveled  territories,  added 
new  glory  to  the  name  of  France.  This,  too,  in  the 
face  of  continual  encounters  with  the  treacherous 
natives,  whose  tomahawks  had  already  dyed  wood- 
land and  valley  with  the  white  man's  blood. 

As  early  as  1658,  two  fur  traders  had  reached  the 

(71) 


MARQUETTE  AND  JOLIET.  75 

western  end  of  Lake  Superior,  where  they  were  told 
by  the  Sioux  of  a  great  river,  whose  valley  their 
Indian  fancy  had  enveloped  in  mystery  and  romance. 
Up  and  down  its  windings  many  a  war  and  hunting 
party  had  passed  in  the  centuries  before  the  European 
came,  investing  it  with  traditions  which  even  now 
cling  to  it,  and  which  leave  some  faint  trace  of  a  pre- 
historic era.  Of  this  the  traders  told  upon  their 
return  to  Canada,  exciting  the  greatest  interest  in  the 
western  river,  and  reviving  the  old  theory  of  an 
international  waterway.  "  The  Indians  had  described 
it;  the  Jesuits  were  eager  to  discover  it,"  and  to  be 
the  first  to  plant  the  cross  upon  its  shores.  They 
were  very  nearly  deprived  of  the  honor  of  first  reaching 
it,  however,  by  the  ambitious  Sieur  de  La  Salle,  who 
believed  its  course  lay  toward  the  Eed  Sea — by  which 
name  the  Gulf  of  California  was  then  known — and 
who  was  willing  to  put  his  entire  fortune  into  an 
expedition  for  its  discovery;  but  by  a  complication  of 
events,  his  plans  failed,  and  he  returned  without 
having  accomplished  his  purpose.  By  the  time  he 
prepared  for  a  second  expedition,  the  Jesuits  had 
explored  more  than  a  thousand  miles  of  the  river,  had 
sown  the  first  seeds  of  their  religion  along  its  shores, 
and  had  become  convinced  that  its  course  lay  in  the 
direction  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  not,  as  was 
supposed,  in  the  direction  of  the  Pacific. 

The  two  men  who  had  been  chosen  by  the  Canadian 
officials  to  conduct  this  enterprise  were  singularly 
fitted  for  the  service,  and  in  their  different  roles  of 
explorer  and  missionary  are  admirable  examples  of 
the  courage  and  loyalty  which  characterized  the  early 
pioneer. 

Father  James    Marquette,    the  elder  of  the  two, 


76  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

was  born  in  1637,  in  the  picturesque  old  cathedral 
town  of  Laon,  about  ninety  miles  northeast  of  the 
French  capital.  Here,  under  the  gentle  guidance  of 
his  mother  and  the  Church,  he  received  that  early 
training  which  influenced  him,  at  the  age  of  seven- 
teen, to  renounce  the  world  and  attach  himself  to  the 
order  of  the  Jesuits. 

Twelve  years  were  spent  in  the  quiet  pursuits  of 
teaching  and  study,  and  then,  eager  to  follow  the 
example  of  his  patron  saint,  Francis  Xavier,  whose 
life  and  death  among  the  half-civilized  nations  of  the 
Orient  had  deeply  impressed  him,  he  was  given  an 
opportunity  to  follow  his  bent  by  being  transferred 
from  the  province  of  Champagne,  which  contained 
no  foreign  mission,  to  that  of  France.  In  1G66,  he 
sailed  for  Canada,  full  of  enthusiasm  for  the  noble 
cause  which  he  had  espoused,  and  buoyant  with  lite 
and  health.  His  inclination  toward  an  active  career 
was  doubtless  inherited  from  his  soldier  and  statesmen 
ancestors,  who  were  ever  ready  to  defend  their  country 
and  their  King,  and  whose  loyal  services  were  among 
the  proudest  records  of  Laon.  In  this  country  the 
name  is  also  deserving  of  honor,  not  only  for  the 
sake  of  the  priest-explorer,  but  because  of  the  enlist- 
ment of  three  Marquettes  in  the  cause  of  American 
independence. 

At  the  time  of  Marquette's  arrival  at  Quebec,  the 
mission  fields  of  the  New  World  were  greatly  in  need 
of  reinforcements,  and  the  sight  of  this  earnest 
young  Jesuit  must  have  been  encouraging  to  the  good 
Vicar  Apostolic,  Francis  de  Laval,  who,  since  his 
appointment  as  bishop  of  Petrea,  had  labored  unceas- 
ingly to  establish  order  in  his  outlying  stations,  and 
who  wished  to  extend  the  influence  of  the  Church  to 


MARQUETTE   AND   JOLTET.  77 


the  more  distant  tribes.  Filled  with  the  zeal  which 
has  ever  characterized  the  members  of  the  Society  of 
Jesus,  he  longed  to  penetrate  the  Great  West  him- 
self, and  to  plant  the  cross  in  its  wildest  haunts. 
This  wish  he  could  not  realize;  but  he  was  none  the 
less  ambitious  in  appointing  others  to  the  work.  He 
soon  sent  Marquette  with  Father  Druilletes  to  study 
the  Montagnais  language,  which  was  a  key  to  the 
others,  that  the  young  man  might  be  prepared  for 
the  mission  of  Tadoussac,  which  was  first  planned  for 
him;  but  his  field  was  changed,  and  he  was  ordered 
in  1668  to  the  Ottawa  mission  on  Lake  Superior. 

Starting  from  Quebec,  on  the  twenty-first  of  April, 
with  three  companions,  Marquette  was  joined  by  a 
party  of  Nezperces,  with  whom  he  began  the  journey 
up  the  Saint  Lawrence  and  through  the  lakes;  invoking 
the  protection  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  whom  he  wor- 
shiped with  the  simple  devotion  of  a  child,  and, 
under  her  guidance,  reaching  his  distant  station  of 
Ste.  Marie  du  Sault. 

It  is  impossible  to  mistake  the  sincerity  of  Mar- 
quette's character.  Possessed  of  an  imaginative  and 
gentle  nature,  he  gave  all  of  his  energies  to  his  holy 
calling,  and  combined  in  his  own  person  the  sturdy 
qualities  of  the  explorer  with  the  ideal  virtues  of  the 
saint.  In  his  lonely  home  on  Lake  Superior  he 
labored  unceasingly,  instructing  first  the  Algonquins 
at  Ste.  Marie's,  and  later,  at  Lapointe,  the  Hurons  and 
Ottawas,  who  had  been  driven  westward  by  the 
vengeful  Iroquois;  writing  to  his  superior  at  Quebec 
of  the  progress  he  was  making,  and  the  difficulties 
which  confronted  him,  and,  with  all  his  Christian 
labors,  learning  the  languages  of  the  tribes  who  fre- 
quented the  region  of  the  northern  lakes. 


78  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

Through  the  intercourse  which  frequent  contact 
with  the  visiting  tribes  thus  brought  about,  Mar- 
quette first  began  to  entertain  the  hope  of  some  day 
leaving  his  mission  in  other  hands,  and  of  carrying 
out  his  favorite  wish — to  see  the  Mississippi,  and  to 
convert  the  tribes  upon  its  shores.  While  at  Ste. 
Marie's  he  had  heard  from  the  Sioux  of  the  Great 
River,  and  again  at  Saint  Ignace — by  which  name  the 
mission  at  Michilimackinac  was  known — the  Illinois 
brought  him  word  of  the  stream  into  which  their 
river  found  its  way. 

For  a  time  it  seemed  that  his  wish  could  not  be 
realized.  The  Hurons  and  Ottawas  became  involved 
in  a  quarrel  with  the  Sioux,  and  were  again  obliged 
to  flee  from  their  angry  neighbors.  Each  tribe 
sought  a  different  retreat — the  Ottawas  going  to  the 
Island  of  Manataulin  followed  by  Father  Louis  Andre, 
while  the  Hurons  took  up  their  abode  at  Michili- 
mackinac, whither  Father  Marquette  accompanied 
them.  To  one  less  strong  of  purpose,  this  new  field 
would  have  been  discouraging,  but  with  unfailing 
patience  he  erected  a  chapel  and  established  a  mission 
upon  the  bleak  coast,  which  later  became  an  impor- 
tant point  for  the  Indians  returning  from  their  hunt- 
ing excursions.  Meanwhile,  events  were  culminating 
at  Quebec  in  such  a  way  as  to  bring  Marquette  to  a 
speedy  realization  of  his  hopes. 

It  was  the  policy  of  the  French  to  explore  and 
occupy  the  interior  of  the  country  as  rapidly  as 
possible,  and  to  this  enjd  the  Governor  was  seeking 
competent  men  to  carry  on  the  enterprise.  The 
influence  of  the  Jesuits  was  strong  at  that  time,  and 
therefore  the  choice  of  emissaries  under  their  patron- 
age would  naturally  follow.     Probably  for  this  reason 


MARQUETTE   AND   JOLIET.  79 

the  intendant,  Talon,  before  leaving  the  colony, 
recommended  Louis  Joliet  for  the  discovery  of  the 
Mississippi,  although  Joliet  had  proven  himself  worthy 
of  the  project,  and  was  a  man  of  wide  experience. 
The  choice  of  the  one  who  was  to  accompany  him 
fell  to  Marquette,  on  account  of  his  familiarity  with 
the  Indians  and  their  language,  and  of  his  knowledge 
of  the  country,  and  also,  it  may  be  supposed,  in 
acknowledgment  of  his  zealous  labors  in  the  remote 
missions  of  the  \Vest.  To  him  the  appointment  meant 
the  crowning  of  his  life  work;  the  golden  oppor- 
tunity for  which  he  had  waited;  and  if  ambition  for 
his  Order  entered  somewhat  into  his  thoughts,  it  Avas 
a  pardonable  ambition,  in  which  self-glory  bore  a 
very  small,  and  the  salvation  of  a  heathen  race  a 
very  large,  part. 

As  to  Joliet,  very  little  has  been  found  concerning 
his  early  career  beyond  a  few  distinct  facts,  and  the 
detailed  record  of  his  life  only  begins  with  the  expe- 
dition to  the  Mississippi  in  company  with  Marquette. 
This  omission  in  the  old  manuscripts  has  been  a 
source  of  regret  to  American  historians,  who  would 
have  taken  some  pride  in  writing  the  biography  of  an 
explorer  born  in  their  own  country.  To  the  efforts 
of  Mr.  Shea  we  are  indebted  for  nearly  all  of  the 
information  that  has  been  gained  concerning  him. 

Born  in  1645  in  Quebec,  then  a  great  stronghold 
of  the  Jesuits,  he  was  early  placed  under  their  in- 
struction, and  determined  to  become  a  priest.  At 
seventeen  he  received  the  minor  orders,  and  at  twenty- 
one  excited  the  admiration  of  his  superiors  by  his 
intelligent  reasoning  in  the  philosophical  discussions 
inaugurated  by  the  sages  of  the  colony.  His  real 
province,  though,  was  soon  found  to  be  widely  different 


80  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

from  that  of  his  brother  priests,  and,  becoming  con- 
vinced that  his  inclinations  were  antagonistic  to  his 
office,  he  soon  renounced  his  vows  and  took  up  the 
practical  occupation  of  a  fur  trader,  remaining,  how- 
ever, partial  to  the  order  which  he  had  left.  His  keen 
intelligence  and  natural  hardihood  rendered  him  great 
assistance  in  his  roving  tours  over  the  country,  and 
he  became  valuable  to  the  authorities  in  Quebec  as 
an  explorer.  Talon  sent  him,  m  1669,  with  Tere,  to 
search  for  and  report  upon  the  copper  mines  of  Lake 
Superior;  and  although  the  expedition  was  a  failure, 
he  had  made  careful  maps  of  the  route  passed  over, 
and  by  them  was  able  to  offer  suggestions  to  Pollier 
and  his  companions,  whom,  with  La  Salle,  he  met  at 
the  head  of  Lake  Ontario,  bent  upon  "exploring  the 
mystery  of  the  great  unknown  River  of  the  West." 

La  Salle  and  the  priests  soon  separated;  the  latter 
taking  the  route  which  Joliet  had  indicated,  in  order 
to  visit  those  tribes  which  he  had  described  as  being 
sadly  in  need  of  their  assistance,  while  the  former, 
prevented  from  carrying  out  his  plans  for  reaching 
the  Mississippi,  was  obliged  to  postpone  his  under- 
taking and  return  to  Canada. 

As  late  as  1673  no  important  move  had  been  made 
toward  the  interesting  interior,  so  that  the  appoint 
ment  in  that  year  of  Marquette  and  Joliet  to  search 
out  the  unknown  river  meant  a  new  era  in  the  his- 
tory of  American  exploration. 

Having  accepted  the  responsibility  of  the  expedi- 
tion, Joliet  started  in  the  autumn  to  meet  his  fellow 
voyager,  reaching  the  mission  of  Saint  Ignace  on  the 
festival  of  the  Immaculate  Conception,  a  time  singu- 
larly happy  to  Marquette,  who  wrote  in  his  journal: 
"The  day  of  the  Immaculate    Conception  of  the 


MARQUETTE   AND   JOLIET.  81 

Blessed  Virgin  Mary  whom  I  have  always  invoked, 
since  I  have  been  in  this  country^,  to  obtain  of  God 
the  grace  to  be  able  to  visit  the  nations  on  the  Eiver 
Mississippi,  was  identically  that  on  which  M.  Joliet 
arrived  with  orders  of  the  Comte  de  Frontenac,  our 
Gcvernor,  and  M.  Talon,  our  intendant,  to  make  this 
discovery  with  me.  I  was  the  more  enraptured  at 
this  good  news,  as  I  saw  my  designs  on  the  point  of 
being  accomplished,  and  myself  in  the  happy  necessity 
of  exposing  my  life  for  the  salvation  of  all  these 
nations,  and  particularly  the  Illinois,  who  had,  when 
I  was  at  Lapointe  du  Saint  Esprit,  very  earnestly 
entreated  me  to  carry  the  word  of  God  to  their 
country."  This  entry,  as  indeed  his  entire  journal, 
shows  the  enthusiasm  that  burned  in  the  soul  of  Mar- 
quette for  the  uplifting  of  the  heathen  nations  among 
whom  he  had  chosen  to  pursue  his  life  work. 

As  for  Joliet,  he  had  become  greatly  interested  in 
the  River  Mississippi  while  on  his  western  hunting 
excursions,  during  which  he  received  glowing 
accounts  of  it  from  the  Indians.  It  was  his  ambi- 
tion to  reach  it,  and,  as  he  had  promised  Frontenac, 
"  to  see  its  mouth";  yet  notwithstanding  the  eager- 
ness of  both  men,  it  was  deemed  prudent  to  devote 
the  winter  months  to  investigation,  that  "  if  the 
enterprise  were  hazardous,"  as  Marquette  says,  "it 
should  not  be  foolhardy."  They  accordingly  ques- 
tioned all  Indians  who  had  any  knowledge  of  the 
region,  and  with  information  gathered  from  personal 
observation  mapped  out  the  route,  and  the  tribes 
they  were  likely  to  encounter.  In  the  spring  their 
plans  were  matured,  and,  devoutly  placing  themselves 
under  the  protection  of  the  "  Blessed  Virgin  Immac- 
ulate," they  began  their  journey  on  the  seventeenth 


82  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

of  May,  letting  their  paddles  "  play  joyously  over  a 
part  of  Lake  Huron  and  that  of  the  Illinois — Lake 
Michigan — into  the  Bay  of  the  Fetid,"  according  to 
Marquette's  sprightly  account. 

Following  the  northern  shore  of  Lake  Michigan 
until  it  turns  southward,  they  coasted  on  down  to 
the  inlet  now  known  as  Green  Bay;  then  into  a  small 
tributary  stream,  reaching  the  village  of  the  Menom- 
onees,  or  "  Wild  Rice,"  Indians,  where  they  were 
seriously  cautioned  against  going  farther.  In  vain 
these  superstitious  children  of  the  forest  sought  to 
dissuade  their  white  brothers.  Marquette  paid  no 
heed  to  their  stories,  assuring  them  that  he  and  the 
Sieur  Joliet  could  protect  themselves,  and  that  he 
must  not  turn  back  when  there  were  souls  to  save. 

At  the  head  of  Green  Bay  the  travelers  were  wel- . 
corned  by  Fathers  Allouez  and  Dablon,  who  had  been 
laboring  among  the  savage  tribes  of  that  region 
for  three  years,  in  an  attempt  to  convert  them  to 
Christianity. 

Father  Allouez  had  bravely  entered  the  field  in 
1669  to  found  the  mission  of  Saint  Francis  Xavier, 
where  he  was  joined  the  next  year  by  his  brother  mis- 
sionary. Together  they  had  visited  the  villages  of 
the  Pottawattamies,  Winnebagoes,  Sacs,  Mascoutins, 
Miamis,  Kickapoos,  and  Foxes,  who  lived  in  what 
Dablon  enthusiastically  called  "  an  earthly  paradise," 
and  from  them  they  also  heard  of  the  Great  River, 
which  rose  far  in  the  north,  and  which  they  had 
hoped  some  day  to  see.  With  the  natural  sympathy 
of  men  of  broad  purpose  and  brave  deeds,  they  now 
rejoiced  with  their  more  fortunate  brothers,  who 
were  about  to  realize  a  kindred  wish;  and  with  every 
encouragement  saw  them  again  on  their  way. 


MABQUETTE  AND  JOLIET.  83 

The  voyagers  now  paddled  into  Fox  River,  finding 
it  easy  of  access  near  its  mouth,  but  farther  up,  where 
they  were  obliged  to  get  into  the  water  and  carry  the 
boats,  its  stones  and  pebbly  bottom  made  their 
passage  difficult.  Reading  the  narrative  at  this 
point,  one  fancies  that  Father  Marquette  and  his 
sturdy  companion  must  have  enjoyed  their  journey 
with  the  relish  of  a  modern  canoeist;  forgetting  for 
the  moment  the  perils  of  travel  in  the  midst  of  savage 
tribes,  and  only  realizing  the  beauties  about  them. 
For  two  hundred  and  sixty  miles  they  followed  this 
stream,  noticing  as  they  passed  along  the  changes  of 
scene,  and  stopping  near  the  village  of  the  Mas- 
coutins  "to  drink  the  mineral  waters."  At  Mas- 
coutins  itself,  we  have,  through  Marquette's  journal, 
a  picturesque  view  of  an  Indian  village,  built  on  an 
eminence  overlooking  the  river;  with  a  great  cross 
in  the  midst  of  its  lodges,  hung  with  colored  skins 
and  bows  and  arrows  as  a  thank  offering  to  the  great 
Manitou,  who  had  given  them  an  abundance  of  game 
during  the  winter,  when  a  famine  had  been  expected. 

Soon  after  disembarking  here,  Marquette  and 
Joliet  called  the  chiefs  about  them  to  explain  the 
reason  of  their  journey,  and  to  ask  for  guides,  as 
they  would  soon  reach  unfamiliar  streams.  Their 
request  was  quickly  granted,  for  the  Miamis,  who 
belonged  to  the  head  tribe  of  the  town,  were  very 
friendly  with  the  French. 

The  route  beyond  was  through  the  unknown  coun- 
try, for  exploration  had  ceased  at  Mascoutins,  and 
the  only  information  that  had  been  gained  concern- 
ing it  was  from  Indian  descriptions,  with  which  con- 
siderable superstition  had  been  mingled. 

At  the  head  of  the  Upper  Fox  River  the  Frenchmen 


84  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

left  the  waters  on  which  they  had  come  from  Que- 
bec, and  making  a  portage,  with  the  assistance  of 
their  Miami  guides,  were  soon  launched  upon  the 
broad  stream  of  the  Wisconsin.  Their  anxiety  to 
reach  the  Great  Kiver  now  filled  their  thoughts  and 
hurried  their  paddles,  as  they  glided  down  tne  sandy 
channel,  past  bar  and  island  and  forest-covered  bank. 

With  feelings  of  mingled  pride  and  gratitude  the 
brave  men  approached  the  goal  of  their  hopes,  and, 
again  quoting  the  simple  but  forcible  words  of  the 
missionary,  they  "  safely  entered  the  Mississippi  on 
the  seventeenth  of  June,  with  a  joy  that  he  could  not 
express."  Evidently,  from  Marquette's  preliminary 
description  of  the  river,  the  Indians  from  whom  he 
received  his  information  had  a  very  good  idea  of  its 
features,  for  he  speaks  of  the  lakes  from  which  it 
had  its  source  in  the  North. 

It  is  a  characteristic  of  the  Indian  that  he  has  very 
accurate  ideas  of  location;  often  exerting  his  faculty 
in  this  direction  to  a  remarkable  degree;  and  if  given 
materials,  will  map  out  familiar  localities  with  an 
exactness  which  has  often  been  of  the  greatest  service 
to  his  white  brothers.  In  changing  his  abode  to  meet 
the  exigencies  of  summer  and  winter,  this  trait 
becomes  almost  an  instinct. 

After  having  gone  more  than  three  hundred  miles 
without  meeting  anything  more  startling  than  the 
timid  denizens  of  forest  and  prairie,  the  travelers 
were  filled  with  apprehension.  At  every  turn,  they 
expected  to  come  upon  hostile  natives  or  to  be  over- 
whelmed by  them  in  ambush;  and  the  greatest  care 
was  taken  to  prevent  surprise.  In  the  evening  a 
small  fire  was  made  on  the  shore,  where  their  food 
was  prepared;  but  this  was  left  as  darkness  came  on, 


86  EAELY   EXPLORERS. 

and  a  safer  shelter  found  in  the  boats  moored  far  out 
in  the  stream,  from  whose  silent  retreat  a  sentinel 
always  kept  guard.  In  this  way  they  pursued 
their  course  for  some  time;  but  on  the  twenty-fifth  of 
June,  while  passing  closely  to  the  shore,  footprints 
were  discovered  on  the  sand,  from  which  a  path  was 
seen  to  extend  over  the  prairie.  This  the  explorers 
determined  to  follow,  leaving  the  boats  in  charge  of 
their  men  and  warning  them  to  be  on  the  lookout. 

Realizing  the  danger  to  which  they  were  exposed, 
Marquette  and  Joliet  advanced  in  silence  until  within 
sight  of  the  Indian  village  whither  the  path  led; 
then,  recommending  themselves  to  the  protection  of 
Heaven,  made  their  presence  known  by  crying  out 
with  all  their  strength.  At  this  the  Indians  rushed 
from  their  cabins  in  consternation,  but  perceiving 
the  peaceful  intent  of  the  strangers,  they  made  no 
attempt  to  prevent  their  approach.  Four  old  men 
were  sent  out  to  greet  them,  bearing  aloft  the  calu- 
met— their  universal  emblem  of  good-will — and  when 
they  had  come  within  a  few  paces  of  the  Frenchmen, 
Marquette  began  the  parley  by  asking  the  Indians 
who  they  were.  To  the  surprise  and  pleasure  of 
their  visitors  they  replied  that  they  were  Illinois,  and 
in  token  of  peace  offered  their  pipes,  at  the  same 
time  inviting  the  strangers  to  their  village. 

The  reception  which  Marquette  and  his  companion 
received  at  the  hands  of  this  friendly  tribe  is  strongly 
characteristic  of  Indian  customs,  and  of  their  fond- 
ness for  a  certain  savage  formality.  Seeing  the  black 
gown  of  the  priest,  which  even  then  had  become  a 
truce  through  the  faithful  exertions  of  the  earlier 
evangelists,  the  two  explorers  were  welcomed  to  the 
village  and  escorted  to  the  tent  of  one  of  the  chiefs. 


MAKQUETTE   ANT)   JOLIET.  87 

At  his  door  that  august  personage  appeared  entirely 
naked,  that  he  might,  according  to  his  heathen 
notions,  show  the  greater  respect  for  his  guests;  and 
lifting  his  hands  as  if  to  shield  his  face,  cried  out, 
"How  bright  is  the  sun,  0  Frenchmen,  when  you 
come  to  visit  us !  "  then,  standing  aside,  he  bade  them 
enter  his  tent.  Within,  a  curious  and  silent  assem- 
blage confronted  them,  from  whose  midst,  now  and 
then,  came  the  reassuring  ejaculation,  uttered  in  their 
low  guttural,  "  Well  done,  brothers,  to  visit  us!" 

After  observing  the  ceremony  of  smoking  the  cal- 
umet, a  universal  token  of  peace  among  the  Indians, 
the  Frenchmen  were  invited  to  visit  the  great  sachem, 
whose  town  lay  a  short  distance  beyond.  A  crowd  of 
curious  Indians  followed  them,  resorting  to  the  most 
ludicrous  methods  in  order  to  get  a  good  look  at  their 
white  brothers,  and  the  scene  described  by  Mar- 
quette is  extremely  amusing.  "They  threw  them- 
selves on  the  grass  by  the  wayside,  they  ran  ahead, 
they  turned  and  walked  back  to  see  us  again,"  he 
writes,  and  "  all  this  was  done  without  noise  and  with 
marks  of  a  great  respect  entertained  for  us." 

Thus  escorted,  they  made  their  way  to  the  chief, 
and  were  in  turn  welcomed  by  him  with  the  usual 
demonstrativeness  of  the  race.  He  had,  besides,  a 
reason  for  being  on  good  terms  with  the  French,  as  the 
Illinois  nation  were  then  the  direct  objects  of  Iroquois 
wrath — owing  to  a  complicated  rivalry  in  connection 
with  the  fur  trade — and  were  in  need  of  an  alli- 
ance with  Canada.  To  be  skeptical,  therefore,  the  ex- 
tent of  the  chiefs  personal  regard  might  be  questioned. 
He  tried  to  dissuade  his  guests,  in  the  name  of  all  the 
Illinois,  from  going  farther  on  their  perilous  mission, 
recounting    the    dangers  to  which  they  would  be 


88  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

exposed,  and  putting  forth  all  his  Indian  eloquence  in 
their  interest;  but  Marquette  answered  that  he  feared 
nothing,  and  that  he  would  gladly  risk  his  life  in  the 
service  of  the  Great  Spirit;  an  assertion  which  he 
believed  beyond  the  comprehension  of  his  hearers, 
although  he  must  have  had  abundant  proof  of  their 
own  capacity  for  self-sacrifice  and  loyalty. 

On  the  next  day,  at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
Marquette  and  Joliet,  having  rejoined  their  men, 
embarked  in  the  presence  of  six  hundred  Illinois, 
who  had  assembled  to  give  them  farewell. 

Passing  slowly  down  the  river,  the  explorers 
stopped  occasionally  to  notice  the  rare  plants  and 
fruits  which  grew  upon  the  banks,  and  to  enjoy  the 
beauties  of  a  scene  which  even  now  enchants  the 
beholder. 

A  surprise  met  them  in  their  peaceful  descent,  and 
turned  their  contemplation  of  nature  to  the  arts  of 
man.  On  the  high  rocks  which  overhung  the  stream, 
some  original  Indian  had  skillfully  painted  two  fig- 
ures, which,  from  Marquette's  account,  must  have 
been  the  artist's  conception  of  Match  a  Manitou,  or 
the  Evil  One.  The  terrible  aspect  of  these  monsters 
made  a  deep  impression  upon  the  good  priest,  who 
says  they  wrere  so  well  painted  that  he  could  not 
believe  the  work  done  by  an  Indian,  and  for  whose 
awe-inspiring  effect  he  vouched  by  saying  that  "  uhe 
boldest  Indian"  dared  not  gaze  too  long  upon  them. 

While  still  talking  of  the  strange  impression  the 
Manitous  had  exerted  over  them,  the  little  party  of 
men  were  suddenly  aware  of  another  surprise  in  their 
way.  They  were  coming  within  the  disturbing  influ- 
ence of  the  muddy  Missouri,  which,  pouring  its  full 
Hood  into  the  main  stream,  seemed  almost  to  threaten 


MARQUETTE  AND  JOLIET.  89 

destruction  to  the  frail  fleet.  Here  the  Indians 
described  the  course  of  the  great  tributary  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  suggested  a  route  through  its  chan- 
nel by  which  the  Gulf  of  California  might  be  reached 
indirectly;  a  course  sinre  found  to  be  practicable  by 
topographical  surveys.  This  suggestion  aroused  Mar- 
quette's love  of  adventure  and  missionary  zeal,  and 
he  wrote  if  God  would  give  him  strength  he  would 
"not  despair  of  one  day  making  its  discovery." 

A  few  days  later  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  or  "beau- 
tiful river/'  was  reached,  upon  whose  banks  dwelt 
the  peaceable  Shawnees,  fugitives  from  the  unpro- 
voked assaults  of  the  Iroquois. 

The  travelers  now  became  exposed  to  the  attacks  of 
the  merciless  mosquito,  which  proved  to  have  no  more 
reverence  for  a  black  gown  than  for  any  other  garb. 

Marquette,  appreciating  the  cleverness  of  the  In- 
dians, describes  their  methods  of  defense  in  dealing 
with  the  "little  animals,"  as  he  calls  them.  "They 
raise  a  scaffolding,"  he  says,  "the  floor  of  which  is 
made  of  simple  poles,  and  consequently  a  mere  grate- 
work  to  give  passage  to  the  smoke  of  a  fire  which 
they  build  beneath.  The  Indians  sleep  on  the  poles, 
having  pieces  of  bark  stretched  above  them  to  keep 
off  the  rain."  By  following  this  example  as  far  as 
their  limited  means  would  allow,  the  Frenchmen 
improvised  a  screen  out  of  their  sails,  and,  thus  pro- 
tected, kept  their  way  down  to  the  warmer  cli- 
mates. 

Below  the  Ohio  they  came  to  an  Indian  village,  and, 
anticipating  trouble,  Marquette  held  up  his  safe- 
guard, the  handsome  calumet  presented  by  the  great 
sachem  of  the  Illinois.  For  an  instant  it  seemed 
that  their  friendly  sign  was  disregarded,  and   Mar- 


90  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

quette's  quick  ear  caught  what  he  believed  to  be  the 
word  of  battle;  but  it  proved  to  be  an  invitation  to 
land,  which  was  gladly  accepted  by  the  fatigued  and 
famished  travelers,  who  were  later  treated  to  buffalo- 
steak,  bear's  oil,  and  white  plums. 

Upon  receiving  the  joyful  assurance  that  they  were 
now  only  ten  days'  journey  from  the  Gulf,  the  party 
again  resumed  their  way,  no  longer  content  to  glide 
on  at  the  will  of  the  current,  but  with  vigorous  pad- 
dle-strokes pushing  their  canoes  forward.  Down 
they  sped  between  the  solitary  banks,  for  nearly  three 
hundred  miles,  until  they  reached  the  village  of 
Mitchigamea,  where  their  right  of  way  was  for  the 
first  time  seriously  questioned. 

Seeing  the  men  on  shore  running  back  and  forth 
brandishing  their  weapons,  the  terrified  voyageurs 
committed  themselves  to  the  protection  of  Heaven, 
and  with  abated  breath  held  the  canoes  in  mid- 
stream while  Marquette  exposed  the  peaceful  talis- 
man. Its  magic  effect  appeared  to  fail  with  the 
threatening  warriors,  who  now  pushed  out  into  the 
water  in  their  canoes,  or  swam  toward  the  fleet  with 
uplifted  clubs.  At  this  moment  the  older  warriors 
appeared  upon  the  scene,  and,  noticing  the  peace- 
pipe,  averted  the  danger  just  when  the  party  had 
given  up  hope.  They  asked  the  strangers  ashore, 
treated  them  with  surprising  hospitality,  and  invited 
them  to  stay  over  night,  an  invitation  which  was 
accepted,  as  Marquette  says,  "not  without  some 
uneasiness. "  Besides  this,  they  found  it  difficult  to 
make  each  other  understood,  as  the  Indians  did  not 
speak  any  of  the  languages  with  which  Marquette 
and  Joliet  were  familiar;  but  at  last  resorting  to 
signs,  and  the  aid  of  an  Indian  among  them  who 


MARQUETTE  AND   JOLIET.  91 

could  speak  a  little  Illinois,  they  told  the  Frenchmen 
that  they  could  obtain  all  the  information  they  desired 
at  the  next  village  below.  Early  the  following  morn- 
ing, therefore,  they  launched  their  canoes,  and,  with 
some  relief,  started  on  their  way  toward  Akamsea 
— Arkansas — accompanied  by  ten  of  their  late  enter- 
tainers, and  the  Illinois  interpreter. 

When  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  their  destination 
two  canoes  were  seen  approaching,  in  one  of  which 
stood  a  chief  holding  the  calumet,  and  singing  an  In- 
dian song  of  peace.  These  preliminaries  over,  the  fore- 
most canoe  was  turned  about  to  guide  the  visitors  to  the 
town.  Here  Marquette  and  Joliet  were  royally  re- 
ceived, and  as  soon  as  ceremony  allowed,  and  the  priest 
had  made  his  usual  exhortation,  eager  inquiry  was 
made  concerning  the  subject  nearest  their  thoughts. 
How  many  days'  journey  was  it  to  the  sea?  and  what 
did  the  men  of  Akamsea  know  of  the  river  beyond? 

They  were  told  that  ten  days'  journey  would  bring 
them  to  the  Gulf,  but  that  the  tribes  below  were 
unknown  to  them,  since  their  enemies  prevented  any 
intercourse.  They  also  warned  the  Frenchmen  against 
exposing  themselves  to  the  attacks  of  their  warlike 
neighbors,  from  whose  depredations  they  had  so  often 
suffered. 

Soon  after  this  friendly  council  the  sachems  came 
together  and  deliberated  upon  the  destruction  of  their 
guests,  whom  they  had  seemed  but  a  short  time  before 
to  regard  with  so  much  solicitude;  but  the  chief  be- 
came aware  of  their  movements  and  prevented  vio- 
lence; further  proving  his  protection  by  dancing  the 
calumet  and  presenting  the  pipe  to  the  priest  at  its 
conclusion. 

Marquette   and   Joliet  now  met  to  discuss  their 


92  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

plans.  They  had  heard  of  the  Mexicans  through  the 
Indians,  and  believed  it  would  be  foolhardy  to  expose 
themselves  to  capture  by  the  former — who  looked  upon 
their  expedition  as  an  encroachment — or  to  massacre 
by  the  latter,  by  further  following  the  river,  whose 
course  they  were  now  convinced  lay  toward  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  They  argued  that  their  lives  were  of  value  to 
their  country,  and  that  they  had  attained  the  object  of 
their  journey — namely,  the  discovery  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  the  location  of  its  mouth.  Accordingly, 
they  resolved  to  turn  back,  beginning  the  ascent  of  the 
river  on  the  seventeenth  of  July,  1673,  and  believing 
themselves  within  a  short  distance  of  the  Gulf,  al- 
though in  reality  it  was  some  seven  hundred  miles 
below. 

Retracing  their  course  up  the  Illinois,  they  en- 
countered near  its  head  the  friendly  Kaskaskias,  who 
begged  Marquette  to  return  to  them,  and  instruct 
them  in  the  Faith.  This  he  promised  to  do,  and, 
taking  leave  of  them,  he  and  his  companions  were 
escorted  to  Lake  Michigan  by  a  chief  of  the  tribe, 
where  they  embarked  for  Green  Bay.  By  September 
the  mission  of  Saint  Francis  Xavier  was  reached, 
whence  the  expedition  had  started  four  months  before. 

Joliet  now  took  leave  of  his  fellow  traveler,  and, 
with  the  maps  and  papers  relating  to  their  recent 
explorations,  started  for  Quebec.  Down  through  the 
lakes  he  hurried  to  bear  the  tidings  of  the  successful 
enterprise  to  Frontenac  and  to  seek  his  deserved 
reward;  but  the  good  fortune  which  had  smiled  upon 
him  thus  far  now  seemed  suddenly  to  desert  him. 
Just  above  Montreal  his  boat  was  capsized,  his  papers 
lost,  and  all  that  remained  to  him  was  his  life,  which, 
he  wrote,  he  ardently  desired  to  employ  in  any  service 


MARQUETTE   AND   JOLIET.  93 

which  his  Excellency  might  please  to  direct;  a  loyal 
offer,  and  worthy  a  more  generous  acknowledgment 
than  the  Government  deemed  fit  to  give. 

After  carefully  drawing  up  a  report  from  memory, 
Joliet  again  presented  himself  to  the  authorities  at 
Quebec;  but  the  Mississippi  was  not  then  of  so  much 
importance  as  Canadian  affairs,  and  its  exploration 
was  not  met  with  the  enthusiasm  that  it  would  have 
received  later. 

Upon  failing  to  procure  a  grant  from  the  King,  of 
the  countries  which  he  had  visited,  Joliet  next  turned 
his  attention  to  the  Indian  trade  on  Hudson  Bay,  and 
in  this  interest  left  Quebec  in  1679.  Here  he  found 
the  English  in  undisturbed  possession,  and  reported 
the  case  to  the  Canadian  officials,  which  resulted  in 
the  establishment  of  competitive  trading  stations  for 
the  purpose  of  dispossessing  the  foreign  rivals.  This 
service  was  rewarded,  and  later  Joliet  received  a  grant 
of  the  Island  of  Anticosti,  in  consideration  of  his 
services  on  the  Mississippi.  Again  in  1694,  after 
exploring  the  coast  of  Labrabor,  in  the  employ  of  a 
company  interested  in  the  whale  and  seal  fisheries 
there,  he  was  made  royal  pilot  for  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  hydrographer  at  Quebec.  Thus,  rich  in  honors, 
the  great  explorer  of  the  Mississippi  passed  his  latter 
years,  and  was  buried  on  one  of  his  own  Islands  of 
Mignan,  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  probably  in  1700. 
His  fellow  traveler  had,  meanwhile,  met  his  death  in 
the  lonely  forests  of  Michigan,  twelve  hundred  miles 
away.  In  fact,  when  the  expedition  to  the  Mississippi 
returned  to  Green  Bay,  Marquette  was  already  suffer- 
ing from  the  malady  which  ultimately  killed  him, 
and  which  he  had  contracted  from  the  exposure  and 
hardships  of  the  journey. 


94  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

During  the  autumn  and  winter  he  stayed  at  the 
mission  to  gain  strengtli  for  his  return  to  Kaskaskia, 
where  he  hoped  to  found  the  mission  of  the  Immacu- 
late Conception,  and  by  October  of  the  following 
year  started  out  with  a  band  of  Illinois  and  Potta- 
wattamies  and  two  Frenchmen,  Pierre  Porteret  and 
Jacques ,  to  fulfill  his  promise  to  the  Illinois. 

The  party  paddled  up  the  Bay  to  the  northern  end, 
and  thence  by  portage  gained  Lake  Michigan,  which 
they  reached  in  the  stormy  month  of  November. 
Cautiously  skirting  its  western  shore,  they  pushed 
their  canoes  into  the  Chicago  Eiver  a  month  later, 
where  Marquette  again  became  prostrated,  and  was 
obliged  to  postpone  his  visit  to  Kaskaskia  till  the  fol- 
lowing spring.  The  Indians  went  on,  but  Pierre  and 
Jacques  built  a  small  hut  on  the  river  bank,  where 
game  was  abundant,  and  there  they  guarded  their 
master  till  the  snows  were  gone  and  the  stream  cleared 
of  ice. 

Through  all  the  bitterness  of  this  winter  in  the 
wilderness  Marquette  suffered  patiently  the  ravages 
of  disease,  but  at  last,  despairing  of  his  life,  and 
unwilling  to  abandon  his  darling  wish,  he  begged  his 
companions  to  perform  with  him  a  novina,  or  nine 
days'  devotion  to  the  Virgin.  At  the  end  of  this 
time  he  believed  their  prayers  were  answered,  and  by 
the  thirtieth  of  March  again  undertook  to  reach 
Kaskaskia.  The  route  thither  was  familiar  to  Mar- 
quette and  one  of  his  men,  who  had  passed  over  it  on 
their  return  to  Green  Bay;  and,  excepting  the  incon- 
venience caused  by  the  freshets  and  the  priest's 
physical  condition,  the  journey  was  comparatively 
easy. 

When  the  party  reached  Kaskaskia  the  greatest  joy 


MARQUETTE   AND   JOLIET.  95 

was  manifested,  and  Marquette  was  urged  to  stay  with 
the  people  and  be  their  father;  but  he  knew  his  days 
were  numbered,  and  that  what  he  had  to  do  must  be 
done  quickly.  He  passed  from  lodge  to  lodge  explain- 
ing the  mysteries  of  his  religion,  and  persuading  his 
hearers  by  his  own  magnetic  earnestness;  and  then, 
that  he  might  more  deeply  influence  their  impres- 
sionable natures,  called  them  to  a  great  council  in  the 
open  fields,  where  he  made  a  final  exhortation. 
Some  four  thousand  souls  listened  to  this  appeal  and 
received  the  first  instruction  in  the  Faith,  which  was 
kept  alive  there  by  Marquette's  successors  in  the 
mission  field  of  his  founding. 

Now,  satisfied  that  he  had  accomplished  his  pur- 
pose, and  anxious  to  reach  again  the  station  of 
Michilimackinac,  Marquette  bade  farewell  to  his 
Illinois  children  and  started  for  Lake  Michigan.  On 
its  waters  the  canoe  was  once  more  launched,  in  the 
presence  of  a  faithful  band  which  had  followed  him 
thither. 

Along  the  eastern  border  of  the  lake  the  solitary 
boat  sped,  urged  on  by  the  steady  paddle  strokes  of 
Pierre  and  Jacques,  who,  seeing  the  emaciated  form 
and  failing  strength  of  their  dying  master,  attempted 
to  reach  Saint  Ignace  before  it  was  too  late. 

Their  exertions  were  in  vain.  On  the  nineteenth 
of  May,  when  they  were  yet  many  days'  journey  from 
their  destination,  Marquette,  feeling  his  time  was 
come,  asked  to  be  taken  ashore.  His  companions, 
grief-stricken  and  disappointed,  begged  permission  to 
hurry  on  to  Michilimackinac;  but  Marquette  could 
not  mistake  the  approach  of  death,  and  with  gentle 
firmness  insisted  that  they  stop  at  a  place  which  he 
had  pointed  out,  that  he  might  be  buried  there.     It 


96  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

was  on  the  sloping  bank  of  a  small  stream  which 
poured  its  waters  into  the  great  lake  from  the  east. 

Here  the  two  men  built  a  rude  shelter  of  bark  and 
laid  the  dying  priest,  receiving  at  his  hands  the  sac- 
rament of  penitence  and  making  their  last  confession. 
Marquette  in  turn  asked  their  forgiveness  for  the 
trouble  he  had  caused  them,  and  told  them  how 
grateful  he  was  to  be  permitted  to  die  as  he  had 
always  wished,  alone  in  the  wilderness  after  the  man- 
ner of  Saint  Francis  Xavier.  Then  seeing  that  his 
friends  were  weary,  he  persuaded  them  to  rest,  telling 
them  he  would  call  when  he  needed  them.  Shortly 
after,  they  heard  a  feeble  voice,  and,  overwhelmed  with 
sadness,  answered  its  summons.  He  asked  that  the 
crucifix  which  he  had  worn  be  held  over  him,  and, 
placing  his  eyes  on  the  sacred  emblem,  expired. 

The  next  year,  1676,  a  hunting  party  of  Kiskakon 
Ottawas,  whom  the  priest  had  once  instructed,  on 
passing  his  grave,  reverently  opened  it,  and,  caring  for 
the  remains  after  their  custom,  bore  them  to  Saint 
Esprit  with  all  the  ceremony  observed  at  the  funerals 
of  their  great  chiefs;  and  so,  honored  by  those  for 
whom  he  had  given  his  best  energies,  the  priest- 
explorer  found  his  final  resting  place. 

What  Marquette  accomplished  as  a  missionary  will 
be  variously  estimated,  but  what  he  and  his  fellow 
voyager  Joliet  accomplished  in  the  field  of  early 
exploration  can  never  be  overestimated.  They  hold  a 
place  unchallenged  in  the  history  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  honored  by  those  who  appreciate  the  heralds  of 
civilization. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

ROBEKT  CAVELIER   DE  LA  SALLE. 

0  one  whose  splendid  ambition  and  un- 
failing patriotism  won  for  him  in  his 
day  only  disappointment  and  the  death- 
blow of  the  assassin,  impartial  Time 
has  meted  out  his  sure  reward;  and  the 
La  Salle  of  two  centuries  ago,  now 
stands  a  giant  among  the  great  explor- 
ers. He  was  one  of  those  countless 
heralds  who  proclaimed  the  wonders  of  a  New  World; 
but  pre-eminently  alone  in  the  brilliant  planning 
which  sought  to  make  the  "New  France"  an  added 
kingdom  to  the  Old.  Because  then,  he  was  not  only 
the  explorer  but  the  man  of  thought,  he  has  gained  a 
loftier  place  among  his  fellows,  and  a  truer  claim  to 
renown. 

As  a  school-boy  of  Rouen,  where  he  was  born  in 
1643,  the  unusual  traits  of  the  later  man  began  to 
attract  the  attention  of  his  family,  and  he  was  given 
an  education  in  accordance  with  the  liberality  of  the 
Caveliers  and  his  own  capabilities;  but  the  Order  of 
the  Jesuits,  which  had  earlier  appealed  to  him, 
became,  as  he  reached  manhood,  an  unbearable 
restraint;  and  throwing  off  the  irksome  bonds — to- 
gether with  his  inheritance,  which,  according  to  a 
law  of  the  Order,  must  be  forfeited — the  free-spirited 
La  Salle  obeyed  his  mastering  impulse  and  sailed  in 
1666  for  Canada. 

7  (97) 


98  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

During  the  quiet  years  in  France,  when  all  his  nat- 
ural love  of  action  was  confined  within  the  chambers 
of  his  fertile  brain,  La  Salle  acquired  his  aptitude  for 
great  schemes;  but  conceiving  them  without  the 
power  of  putting  them  into  effect  gave  him  also  that 
fatal  lack  of  attention  to  detail  which  resulted  in  many 
an  ultimate  defeat.  His  broad  mind  could  take  in 
with  quick  perception  vast  enterprises  of  commerce 
and  colonization  in  America,  but  repeated  reverses 
and  an  untimely  death  prevented  him  from  seeing 
their  successful  issue.  With  such  abilities  Kobert  de 
La  Salle  entered  the  attractive  boundaries  of  the  New 
World.  His  elder  brother,  Abbe  Jean  Cavelier,  of  the 
Seminary  of  Saint  Sulpice,  belonged  to  an  influential 
corporation  which  owned  Montreal  and  a  widespread  - 
ing  tract  along  the  Saint  Lawrence;  and  it  was  perhaps 
due  to  his  influence  that  La  Salle  was  offered  gratui- 
tously, soon  after  his  arrival,  a  large  property  about 
nine  miles  above  the  city  for  a  settlement.  The 
object  of  the  priests  in  thus  dealing  out  their  lands 
was  to  establish  a  line  of  outposts  along  the  river  in 
front  of  their  island,  as  a. defense  against  Iroquois 
incursions. 

For  its  new  proprietor  the  exposed  position  of  this 
property  had  no  terrors.  He  immediately  began  the 
building  of  his  embryo  village,  hurrying  up  the  pali- 
sades in  anticipation  of  a  surprise  from  the  Indians, 
and  marking  out  the  twenty-acre  farms  beyond  the 
defenses,  which  were  offered  on  easy  terms  to  those 
who  would  join  his  enterprise;  while  with  the  care  of 
his  new  seigniory  he  threw  himself  into  the  study  of 
Indian  languages  with  a  zeal  which  betokened  design. 

From  time  to  time  straggling  red  men  were 
admitted  within  the  palisade  to  dispose  of  furs  or  to 


ROBERT   CAVELIER   DE   LA   SALLE.  99 

talk  with  the  white  chief;  and  as  La  Salle  had  a  great 
influence  over  them,  he  heard  many  a  story  of  the 
unknown  lands  to  the  west,  and  of  the  river  that 
reached  to  the  sea.  The  old  idea  of  a  route  to  China 
and  Japan  suggested  itself  to  him  and  aroused  his 
ambition.  With  characteristic  dispatch,  he  went  to 
Quebec  to  confer  with  the  Governor,  obtaining 
authority  to  carry  on  an  expedition  to  the  Great 
River,  but  no  money  to  aid  the  enterprise.  This 
lack  of  co-operation  in  funds  did  not  deter  the  young 
explorer,  however.  He  soon  persuaded  Queylus,  the 
Superior  of  Saint  Sulpice,  to  buy  back  part  of  his  lands 
beyond  Montreal,  and  the  rest  he  was  able  to  sell  to 
a  certain  Jean  Milot.  With  this  he  bought  the 
necessary  equipments  and  secured  his  men. 

Some  time  before  this  the  Seminary  had  decided  to 
send  missionaries  to  the  more  western  tribes,  that  the 
Jesuits  might  not  overreach  them  in  christianizing 
the  heathen  nations  of  the  New  World.  Nor  was  this 
all.  They  saw  that  the  rival  Order,  in  penetrating 
the  remote  regions  of  the  Northwest,  would  gain  a 
foothold  there  which  it;  would  be  difficult  to  sup- 
plant. For  these  reasons  an  expedition  had  been 
planned  by  them,  and  the  leadership  given  to  Dollier 
de  Casson,  a  priest  of  Saint  Sulpice. 

Greatly  to  La  Salle's  annoyance,  the  Governor  urged 
that  Dollier  join  him  in  the  exploration  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  as  the  young  man  was  somewhat 
indebted  to  the  Seminary  and  to  Courcelles,  he  could 
offer  no  protest.  Consequently,  on  the  sixth  of  July, 
1669,  the  two  parties  left  the  little  settlement  beyond 
Montreal,  to  begin  the  difficult  ascent  of  the  Upper 
Saint  Lawrence.  A  party  of  Seneca  Iroquois  took  the 
lead,  and  were  to  guide  the  expedition  to  the  Ohio, 


100  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

which  they  had  told  La  Salle  reached  to  the  sea;  but 
instead  of  going  directly  to  the  river  according  to 
agreement,  the  dissimulating  Indians  went  to  their 
own  village  near  the  Genesee;  telling  the  white  men 
they  would  find  other  guides  there.  La  Salle  was  not 
sufficiently  familiar  with  the  Iroquois  language  to 
make  a  personal  appeal,  and  the  expedition  was 
delayed;  but  there  happened  to  be  an  Indian  from  .a 
neighboring  tribe  present  at  the  time,  who  offered 
to  take  the  party  to  his  own  village,  promising  to  find 
some  one  there  to  act  as  guide.  This  offer  was 
accepted,  and  again  the  march  was  resumed.  A 
Shawnee  prisoner  was  at  last  secured,  who  said  he 
could  reach  the  Ohio  in  six  weeks;  but  just  as  prep- 
arations were  being  made  to  start  out,  news  came 
that  two  Frenchmen  had  arrived  at  the  next  village. 
They  proved  to  be  Joliet  and  Pere,  recently  sent  by 
Talon  to  look  for  the  copper  mines  of  Lake  Superior. 
Joliet  had  mapped  out  the  route  he  had  taken,  and,, 
giving  Dollier  a  duplicate  of  this,  told  him  of  the 
tribes  about  the  upper  lakes  who  were  sadly  in  need 
of  spiritual  guidance.  The  priest  immediately  re- 
solved to  follow  these  suggestions,  although  La  Salle 
reminded  him  that  the  Jesuits  were  already  in  the 
field;  but  Dollier  was  not  to  be  dissuaded,  and  he  be- 
lieved, moreover,  that  this  change  of  plan  would  not 
interfere  with  the  intended  exploration  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. La  Salle,  unwilling  to  follow  this  lead, 
and  determined  to  carry  out  his  own  plans,  in  his 
own  way,  no  doubt  urged  his  weak  physical  condition 
as  a  pretext  for  separating  from  the  Sulpitians.  At 
any  rate,  Dollier  soon  started  on  his  fruitless  mission 
northward,  while  La  Salle  remained  behind  in  the 
Indian  village. 


feOBEUT  CAVELtER;T}E   LA;SAL|,E,  11)1 

From  all  that  has  been  found  relating  to  the  next 
two  years,  it  is  evident  that  La  Salle  was  unable  to 
reach  the  Mississippi;  but  during  that  time  he  un- 
doubtedly made  the  discovery  of  the  Ohio,  and  carried 
on  extensive  explorations  in  other  quarters.  Unfor- 
tunately, the  only  record  that  remains  of  this  part  of 
his  career  is  an  anonymous  manuscript  of  somewhat 
doubtful  accuracy,  supposed  to  have  been  written 
from  conversations  with  La  Salle  himself,  and  from 
which  Francis  Parkman,  with  careful  explanations, 
has  made  a  few  extracts  in  his  "  Discovery  of  the 
Great  West."  These  relate  simply  to  his  explorations 
on  the  Ohio  and  Illinois  rivers,  and  to  his  voyage 
through  the  lakes.  Reference  is  also  made  to  the 
statement  that  La  Salle,  in  descending  the  Illinois, 
reached  a  river  corresponding  in  description  to  the 
Mississippi,  which  he  is  said  to  have  followed  as  far 
as  the  thirty-sixth  degree  of  latitude,  becoming  con- 
vinced that  it  emptied  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico;  and 
which,  the  anonymous  writer  continues,  he  intended 
to  further  explore  when  equipped  in  such  a  way  as  to 
make  it  practicable.  This  seems  to  admit  of  ques- 
tion. If  La  Salle  had  made  such  a  discovery,  it  is 
not  likely  that  he  would  have  remained  silent  in 
regard  to  it  when  Frontenac  appointed  Joliet  for  that 
service;  nor  that,  being  on  the  most  friendly  terms 
with  the  Governor,  he  should  have  made  no  immediate 
mention  of  it. 

This  doubtful  period  over,  La  Salle  again  emerges 
into  the  full  light  of  authentic  history,  and  we  find 
him  at  Quebec  discussing  his  plans  with  Frontenac. 
These  plans  were  concerning  the  settlement  of  the 
Great  West,  and  the  development  of  commerce  along 
the  Mississippi.     He  saw  that  delay  would  be  fatal  to 


1Q2   ',  \  ''.  «'«  !  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

the  interests  of  France,  and  he  therefore  made  arrange- 
ments to  confer  with  the  King  that  he  might  obtain 
his  approval  and  aid.  Frontenac,  fully  in  sympathy 
with  his  projects,  was  unable  to  give  more  than  his 
hearty  recommendation;  but  this  had  its  value,  and 
La  Salle  started  for  France  bearing  the  most  flatter- 
ing letters  from  him. 

Once  at  court,  there  was  no  difficulty  in  gaining 
attention,  and  Louis,  recognizing  the  ability  and  zeal 
of  his  young  petitioner,  soon  became  interested  in  his 
schemes.  La  Salle  returned  to  Canada  with  a  patent 
of  nobility  in  consideration  of  recent  explorations, 
and  with  a  grant  of  a  fort  at  the  head  of  Lake 
Ontario  which  he  afterward  named  for  Frontenac, 
and  which,  by  its  favorable  position  for  the  fur  trade, 
would  aid  him  in  many  an  enterprise. 

Carefully  guarding  every  interest,  La  Salle  now 
began  to  make  improvements  upon  the  fort,  replac- 
ing Frontenac's  hurriedly  constructed  buildings  and 
palisades  with  stone,  and  having  a  few  heavy  boats 
built;  for  where  the  light  Indian  canoe  had  formerly 
been  a  convenience  in  making  the  frequent  journeys 
up  and  down  the  river  and  through  the  lakes,  when 
very  little  freight  was  carried,  larger  craft  would 
now  be  indispensable.  This  done,  La  Salle  again,  went 
to  France  to  report  to  the  minister  and  to  receive  a 
further  sanction  to  his  explorations.  These  he  in- 
tended to  prosecute  on  the  Mississippi  with  a  view  to 
opening  a  direct  route  to  France;  thus  to  throw  into 
her  ports  the  monopoly  of  furs  furnished  by  the  great 
western  hunting  grounds  of  America,  and  to  found  a 
chain  of  commercial  villages  along  its  banks.  He 
asked,  besides,  the  privilege  of  holding  exclusive  right 
to  the  trade  in  buffalo  skins.     These  petitions  were 


ROBERT  CAVELIER  DE  LA  SALLE.  103 

favoraoly  received  by  Colbert,  and  in  addition  large 
sums  of  money  were  advanced  by  his  relatives.  Men 
were  engaged  and  the  necessary  supplies  procured, 
and  with  these,  La  Salle  again  returned  to  Canada. 
On  the  way  over  he  became  acquainted  with  his  new 
lieutenant,  Henri  de  Tonty,  who  had  been  recom- 
mended to  him  during  his  brief  stay  in  France,  by  the 
Prince  de  Conti,  as  a  man  in  every  respect  worthy  of 
confidence.  La  Salle,  with  keen  discrimination,  soon 
recognized  this,  and,  himself  possessed  of  rare  per- 
sonal qualities,  easily  made  him  his  friend.  He  wrote 
back  to  the  Prince  extolling  Tonty's  (( honorable 
character  and  amiable  disposition,"  and  referred  to 
his  hardihood  in  starting  out  to  begin  a  fort  at 
Niagara  at  a  season  when  any  but  him  would  have 
hesitated. 

The  building  of  this  fort  was  a  triumph  for  La 
Salle,  and  he  had  made  no  small  effort  toward  its 
accomplishment.  To  this  end  he  had  encouraged  La 
Motte  to  negotiate  with  the  chief  of  the  Senecas. 

His  lieutenant  was,  in  a  measure,  successful;  but 
La  Salle,  understanding  the  value  of  the  full  aud 
friendly  approval  of  the  Iroquois,  and  confident  of 
securing  a  personal  favor,  had  stopped  on  his  way  up 
from  Fort  Frontenac  to  ratify  La  Motte's  transac- 
tions, and  had  gained  permission  from  the  reluctant 
Indians  to  build  a  vessel  above  the  falls  for  naviga- 
tion on  the  upper  lakes.  An  unimpeded  way  to  suc- 
cess was  now  opened,  and  La  Salle  hastened  to  for- 
mulate his  plans.  Misfortune,  however,  met  him  at 
the  very  start.  When  he  and  Tonty  reached  the  gar- 
rison at  Niagara,  they  found  that  the  boat  bringing 
supplies,  on  which  they  had  come  part  of  the  way, 
had  been  wrecked  within  nine  or  ten  leagues  of  its 


104  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

destination  and  all  the  provisions  lost,  the  crew  being 
able  to  save  only  the  anchor  and  cables  for  the  new 
vessel. 

This  loss  placed  La  Salle  in  an  unpleasant  predica- 
ment. Hk  men,  but  half-hearted  in  their  devotion 
to  his  interest,  and  disaffected  by  his  enemies,  were 
ready  to  desert  upon  the  slightest  provocation.  At 
this  crisis  he  immediately  prepared  to  return  to  Fort 
Frontenac  for  provisions,  leaving  Tonty  in  command, 
and  relying  upon  his  Mohican  hunter  to  supply  the 
men  with  game  during  his  absence.  Nothing  daunted, 
he  began  the  two  hundred  and  fifty  mile  journey  over 
the  midwinter  snows  on  foot,  only  to  find,  upon 
reaching  the  fort,  that  the  greater  share  of  his  prop- 
erty had  been  seized  by  over-anxious  creditors,  and  his 
reputation  injured  by  jealous  enemies;  but  he  still 
had  friends,  and  these  again  came  to  his  assistance. 
When  at  last  he  reached  Niagara,  after  an  absence  of 
nearly  six  months,  he  found  his  new  boat,  the 
"Griffin,"  finished,  and  his  men,  under  Tonty's 
guardianship,  still  committed  to  his  service.  The 
commander  returned,  affairs  were  quickly  arranged  at 
the  fort,  the  "Griffin"  was  towed  up  stream,  and  the 
entire  company  boarded  her  on  the  seventh  of  August, 
1679;  sang  the  Te  Deum,  fired  a  salute,  and  set  the 
sails  for  the  eventful  voyage  across  Lake  Erie,  whose 
waters  had  never  before  borne  more  than  the  fairy 
weight  of  an  Indian  canoe.  Eeachiug  the  strait  of 
Detroit,  they  passed  between  the  forest-fringed  banks 
and  then  out  into  the  sparkling  lake,  which,  in 
crossing,  they  called  Sainte  Claire;  moving  again 
through  the  narrowed  outlet  until  it  brought  them 
upon  the  broad  expanse  of  Lake  Huron. 

When  the  boat  was  well  under  way,  promising  a 


ROBERT  CAVBLIfcft  Dfi  LA  &ALL&  105 

speedy  journey  to  Michilimackinac,  a  furious  gale 
overtook  her,  and  for  a  time  caused  the  greatest  excite- 
ment among  her  passengers.  La  Salle  encouraged 
the  men  to  ask  the  aid  of  Heaven,  and  "all  fell  to 
their  prayers,  but  the  godless  pilot,  who  was  loud  in 
complaint  against  his  commander  for  having  brought 
him,  after  the  honor  he  had  won  on  the  ocean, 
to  drown  at  last  ignominiously  in  fresh  water. " 

With  the  abating  of  the  tempest  the  clamor  ceased, 
and  the  "Griffin"  again  moved  forward  over  the 
becalmed  lake. 

Fresh  trouble  awaited  La  Salle  at  Saint  Ignace.  He 
found  that  the  advance  party  which  he  had  sent  on  to 
trade  for  him  had  deserted,  and  that  the  aid  which  he 
had  expected  from  this  quarter  was  not  to  be  realized. 
He  was  able  to  secure  a  small  cargo  of  furs,  and  this 
he  sent  back  to  satisfy  his  creditors  in  Canada,  charg- 
ing the  pilot  to  return  as  soon  as  he  had  fulfilled  the 
commission,  and  meet  him  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saint 
Joseph.  Meanwhile,  La  Salle,  with  fourteen  men 
and  four  canoes,  heavily  laden,  started  down  Lake 
Michigan  toward  the  rendezvous,  every  mile  of  the 
way  being  contested  by  the  stormy  elements.  When 
at  last  they  reached  the  Eiver  Saint  Joseph,  the  men, 
half-starved  and  weary,  urged  that  the  expedition 
move  on  to  the  village  of  the  Illinois,  where  they 
would  find  shelter  and  provisions;  but  La  Salle  had 
told  Tonty  to  meet  him  at  this  place  after  his  journey 
to  Saint  Mary's,  and  therefore  he  would  not  leave. 
Instead,  he  put  the  men  to  work  on  a  fort  to  divert 
their  minds,  and  stolidly  waited.  At  the  end  of  three 
weeks  Tonty  came,  bringing  only  half  his  men,  the 
others  having  stopped  by  the  way  for  food  and  rest. 
Soon  afterward  they  came  up  with  the  party,  and  on 


EARLY    MAP    OF    THE    ILLINOIS. 
(106) 


ROBERT   CAVELIER    DE   LA   SALLE.  107 

the  third  of  December  all  started  up  the  Saint 
Joseph. 

La  Salle's  Mohican  had  remained  a  little  behind 
the  others,  and  when  the  expedition  had  reached  the 
point  where  the  portage  was  supposed  to  be,  they 
were  unable  to  discover  it.  La  Salle  went  ashore  to 
search  for  it,  and  while  wandering  through  the 
forest  lost  his  way.  Night  came  and  with  it  a  light 
snow.  Hurrying  forward,  with  the  hope  of  coming 
upon  his  party,  he  reached  the  river  and  fired  his 
gun  as  a  signal.  Receiving  no  answer,  he  continued 
along  the  shore,  where  he  saw  a  short  distance  beyond 
a  fire  in  the  brush.  Supposing  this  to  be  the  bivouac 
of  his  men  he  hastened  toward  it,  but  found  to  his 
surprise  that  the  spot  was  deserted.  Near  the  fire 
was  a  couch  of  dry  grass,  still  warm,  and  bearing  the 
impress  of  a  recent  occupant,  but  no  answer  came  to 
his  call  although  he  used  all  of  the  Indian  languages 
at  his  command.  To  follow  Parkman's  description, 
"La  Salle  then,  with  admirable  coolness,  took  posses- 
sion of  the  quarters  he  had  found,  shouting  to  their 
invisible  proprietor  that  he  was  about  to  sleep  in  his 
bed;  piled  a  barricade  of  bushes  around  the  spot, 
rekindled  the  dying  fire,  warmed  his  benumbed  hands, 
stretched  himself  on  the  dry  grass,  and  slept  undis- 
turbed till  morning."  When  he  reached  his  party 
the  Mohican  had  already  found  the  portage,  and 
preparations  were  immediately  begun  to  transport  the 
baggage  to  the  Kankakee.  On  this  stream  they 
began  the  journey  down  to  the  Illinois,  reaching  at 
last  the  long-wished-for  lodges  where  they  were  to 
find  food  and  shelter. 

The  Indians  had  not  yet  returned  from  the  winter's 
hunt,  and   the  encampment  was  deserted,  but  La 


108  Early  Explorers. 

Salle's  men  found  the  pits  in  which  the  provisions 
were  stored,  and  from  these  a  quantity  of  corn  was 
taken,  the  intention  being  to  meet  the  Indians  on 
their  return  and  recompense  them  for  their  intru- 
sion. Having  thus  satisfied  their  hunger,  the  party 
pushed  forward,  reaching  Peoria  Lake  on  the  third 
of  January,  1680.  Just  below  here  they  came  in 
sight  of  the  Illinois  camp.  La  Salle  had  been  warned 
by  the  Outagamies  whom  he  met  on  Lake  Michigan 
to  beware  of  these,  as  they  were  angered  with  the 
French,  believing  they  had  incited  the  Iroquois 
against  them.  He  had  also  to  appease  them  for  the 
raid  upon  their  corn-pits.  It  was  therefore  necessary 
to  use  the  utmost  caution  in  approaching  them.  The 
canoes  were  put  in  line,  the  men  were  told  to  drop 
the  oars  and  take  up  their  weapons,  and  thus  formid- 
ably the  little  flotilla  swept  down  to  meet  friend 
or  foe.  La  Salle,  closely  followed  by  his  men,  leaped 
from  his  boat  into  the  midst  of  the  astonished 
Indians,  who,  convinced  of  his  friendliness,  soon  laid 
aside  their  weapons.  With  his  usual  fearlessness  he 
then  harangued  them,  telling  them  if  they  would 
permit  him  to  build  a  fort  in  their  country  as  a  defense 
against  the  Iroquois,  that  he  would  join  them  in 
resisting  those  enemies  in  case  of  attack.  Explana- 
tions were  made  and  payment  offered  for  the  corn, 
and,  while  asking  favors,  the  intrepid  La  Salle 
appeared  to  be  conferring  benefits.  The  Illinois 
received  his  blandishments  and  threats  as  he  intended 
they  should,  and  the  conference  ended  favorably  for 
the  Frenchmen. 

That  same  night,  however,  a  Mascoutin  chief,  insti- 
gated by  La  Salle's  enemies,  came  to  the  camp  to 
tell  the  Indians  in  solemn  council  that  their  visitors 


ROBERT  CAVELIER   DE   LA    SALLE.  109 

were  friends  of  the  Iroquois,  now  on  their  way  to  the 
tribes  beyond  the  Mississippi,  whom  they  intended  to 
stir  up  against  the  Illinois;  and  that  if  the  Illinois 
wished  to  protect  themselves  they  would  soon  be  rid 
of  them.  La  Salle  was  informed  of  the  proceedings 
by  a  chief  whose  friendship  he  had  won  by  generous 
gifts,  and  was  thus  enabled  to  meet  the  excuses  which 
the  Indians  offered  on  the  following  afternoon.  The 
chiefs  resorted  to  a  very  cunning  method,  as  they 
thought,  to  dissuade  the  Frenchmen  from  going  to 
the  Great  Kiver,  telling  them  of  terrible  monsters, 
whirlpools,  and  rapids,  in  their  way,  but  La  Salle 
paid  no  heed  to  these  fabrications,  soon  convincing 
the  Indians  of  the  friendliness  of  his  visit.  Some  of 
his  men  fell  into  the  snare  laid  for  them,  and,  terrified 
by  the  lies  invented  to  deceive  them,  deserted  during 
the  night,  rather  than  risk  the  fancied  dangers. 

La  Salle  now  decided  to  pass  the  remainder  of 
the  winter  in  the  Illinois  country,  that  he  mighu 
build  a  fort  there,  and  be  prepared  for  explo- 
ration on  the  Mississippi  in  the  spring.  He  se- 
lected a  place  of  considerable  strength,  on  a  hill  a  short 
distance  back  from  the  river,  and  here  palisades  were 
thrown  up  and  winter  quarters  provided.  La  Salle 
and  Tonty  occupied  a  plank  cabin  in  the  center  of  the 
inclosure,  the  priests  were  in  another,  and  the  men 
had  their  huts  at  the  four  angles.  Thus  sheltered 
from  the  cold,  and  protected  from  any  sudden  out- 
break of  the  Indians,  the  isolated  party  waited  for  the 
snows  to  disappear. 

As  an  expression  of  his  sorrow  at  the  continued  round 
of  disappointments  which  had  followed  him,  La  Salle 
gave  this  fort  the  name  of  Creve-cceur.  Here  circum- 
stances again  obliged  him  to  undertake  a  journey  to 


110  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

Fort  Frontenac,  for  nothing  had  been  heard  from  the 
"Griffin"  since  she  had  left  Michilimackinac,  and  it 
was  now  impossible  to  hope  for  her  return.  In  her 
loss,  the  explorer  once  more  saw  his  plans  defeated, 
for  she  was  to  have  brought  the  chains  and  anchor  for 
the  new  vessel  in  which  he  intended  to  make  his 
journey  down  the  Mississippi,  and  the  provisions  nec- 
essary to  assure  the  services  of  his  men.  There  was 
no  alternative;  La  Salle  must  either  return  to  Fort 
Frontenac  or  risk  the  failure  of  his  enterprise.  To 
him  the  latter  course  was  impossible,  and  he  quickly 
prepared  for  the  perilous  journey,  seeing  half  the 
work  doue  on  the  vessel  before  starting,  lest  the  men 
should  attempt  to  desert  during  his  absence  or  refuse 
to  undertake  its  building.  He  also  commissioned 
Hennepin,  much  against  the  wishes  of  the  priest,  to 
take  two  men  and  explore  the  Illinois  to  its  mouth, 
and  thence  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi — a 
circumstance  which  has  a  significance;  for,  if  La 
Salle  was  not  aware  of  the  previous  expedition  of 
Marquette  and  Joliet,  as  some  writers  affirm,  it  is  not 
probable  that  he  would  have  authorized  Hennepin  to 
make  this  journey;  for,  in  that  case,  the  honor  of  the 
discovery  would  be  lost  to  him.  Nor  is  it  probable 
that,  being,  as  he  knew,  within  easy  distance  of  the 
Great  Kiver,  he  should  have  betrayed  so  little  eager- 
ness to  reach  it.  In  fact,  corroborative  evidence 
seems  to  show,  without  a  doubt,  that  La  Salle  was 
perfectly  familiar  with  the  explorations  of  his  prede- 
cessors, and  that  his  aim  was  not  to  search  out  an 
unknown  river,  but  to  complete  the  work  begun  in 
1673. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

LA   SALLE  EXPLORES  THE  LOWER  MISSISSIPPI. 

was  just  on  the  verge  of  spring,  1681, 
when  the  streams  were  too  full  of  ice 
to  allow  the  passage  of  a  canoe,  and 
the  ground  too  unstable  for  snow-shoes, 
that  La  Salle,  with  his  Mohican  and 
four  others,  began  the  trying  journey 
'from  Fort  Creve-cceur,  on  the  Illinois, 
to  Canada — the  most  arduous  ever  made  by  French- 
men in  America. 

Through  the  dismal  forests  and  over  treacherous 
swamps  the  men  made  their  way,  braving  the  dangers 
of  the  wilderness  and  sturdily  enduring  the  ills  which 
exposure  and  hardship  brought  upon  them.  On 
Easter  Monday  they  reached  the  Falls  of  Niagara, 
where  La  Salle  learned  that  the  "Griffin"  was  indeed 
lost;  that  a  ship  laden  with  valuable  supplies  coming  to 
him  from  France  had  foundered  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Saint  Lawrence,  and  that  twenty  men  sent  to  his  assist- 
ance from  Europe  had  in  one  way  or  another  become 
dispersed  through  the  machinations  of  his  enemies. 
At  Fort  Frontenac  he  found  only  stronger  evidence  of 
disaster;  but  pressing  on  to  Montreal  he  succeeded  in 
making  good  his  losses  and  in  convincing  those  who 
attempted  to  thwart  him  that  he  was  superior  to  their 
efforts. 

In  starting  out  with  his  fresh  supplies  for  the  Illi- 
nois country,  the  customary  halt  was  made  at  the 


113  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

fort,  and  here  the  unhappy  news  from  Tonty  awaited 
him.  His  men,  taking  advantage  of  the  temporary 
absence  of  his  lieutenant,  had  mutinied,  destroyed 
Fort  Creve-cceur,  and  taking  everything  that  was 
available  had  gone  on  to  Fort  Miami  on  the  Saint 
Joseph  to  wage  a  similar  destruction.  At  Michili- 
mackinac  they  had  seized  a  quantity  of  furs  belong- 
ing to  La  Salle,  and  again  at  Niagara  had  continued 
their  robberies.  Word  was  brought  that  they  even 
intended  to  kill  their  late  leader,  and  were  on  their 
way  to  carry  out  their  sinister  purpose;  but  such 
reverses  only  tended  to  strengthen  La  Salle's  deter- 
mination and  powers  of  endurance.  He  quickly  and 
effectually  dealt  with  the  deserters,  putting  them  into 
custody  where  they  were  to  await  the  arrival  of 
Frontenac,  while  he  prepared  to  return  to  the  Illinois 
country  for  the  relief  of  Tonty  and  those  who  had 
remained  with  him.  This  time  he  took  a  new  route, 
by  way  of  the  Humber,  Lake  Simcoe,  the  Severn  and 
Georgian  Bay,  and  thence  to  Michilimackinac;  hav- 
ing his  lieutenant  La  Forest  at  the  latter  place  with 
half  the  men  to  attend  to  his  business  affairs,  while  he 
hurried  southward.  By  chance  Tonty  and  Father 
Membre*  were  at  the  same  time  retreating  from  the 
dangerous  battle-ground  of  the  Iroquois  and  Illinois, 
and  making  their  way  to  the  mission  at  Green  Bay. 

Having  left  a  small  detachment  on  the  Saint  Joseph 
to  wait  for  La  Forest,  La  Salle  anxiously  pressed 
on  to  the  Illinois,  there  to  find  the  ghastly  relics  of 
war;  and  instead  of  the  flourishing  village  which  he 
had  passed  in  the  spring,  desolated  lodges  and  the  hor- 
rid evidences  of  Indian  vengeance.  The  thought  of 
what  might  have  befallen  his  friend  gave  him  no 
rest,  and  with  gloomy  forebodings  he  continued  his 


LA  SAL^J  EXPLORES  THE  LOWER  MISSISSIPPI.     113 

way  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  finding  all 
along  the  abandoned  camp-fires  of  the  Illinois  in 
retreat,  with  those  of  their  pursuers  on  the  opposite 
bank,  but  no  traces  of  those  he  sought.  It  was  at 
this  unfortunate  moment  that  La  Salle  saw  for  the 
first  time  the  Great  Kiver  toward  which  his  mind's 
eye  had  so  often  turned,  and  with  whose  future  his 
thoughts  had  long  been  occupied.  Even  then  he 
might  have  followed  it  to  the  sea,  putting  aside  the 
search  for  his  friends,  and  relying  upon  the  support 
of  the  few  men  who  had  accompanied  him  to  its 
shores,  and  who  offered  to  make  the  journey  with 
him;  but  he  was  too  deeply  concerned  about  Tonty, 
and  too  well  satisfied  with  certain  other  plans  to 
obey  the  temporary  impulse,  and  therefore  deter- 
mined to  wait.  On  the  return  to  the  Saint  Joseph 
some  traces  were  found  of  the  recent  passage  of  white 
men,  which  assured  La  Salle  that  Tonty  had  escaped 
the  Iroquois  massacre;  and  he  was  further  gratified 
to  find  that  during  his  absence  the  men  at  Fort  Mi- 
ami had  repaired  the  injuries  done  by  the  deserters 
and  had  cleared  a  large  tract  of  land  for  cultivation. 
Thus  favored,  he  prepared  to  remain  at  the  fort  for 
the  winter,  in  order  to  carry  out  his  great  scheme  of 
alliance  among  the  western  tribes  which  the  recent 
Iroquois  invasion  had  made  possible.  It  was  his 
idea  to  conciliate  the  small  tribes  who  had  separated 
on  account  of  slight  grievances,  and  ally  them,  with 
the  Illinois,  to  the  French;  nominally  to  resist  their 
common  enemy  the  Iroquois,  but  really  to  establish 
French  interests  and  secure  the  western  trade  in  furs. 
Having  heard  in  the  course  of  his  travels  of  the 
safety  of  Tonty,  La  Salle  sent  La  Forest  on  to  Mich- 
ilimackinac  to  meet  him  and  to  await  his  own  arrival 


114  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

there;  while  he,  in  the  meantime,  continued  his 
diplomatic  mission  among  the  red  men.  In  these 
negotiations  his  remarkable  influence  with  the  Indi- 
ans gave  him  the  advantage,  and  while  he  intimi- 
dated, persuaded  and  flattered,  they  regarded  him 
with  mingled  admiration  and  fear.  He  accomplished 
all  that  he  had  desired,  and  then  hastened  to  Michili- 
mackinac,  where  in  the  joy  of  meeting  Tonty  the 
habitual  reserve  of  his  calm  nature  for  once  broke  its 
bonds. 

Tonty,  and  Father  Membre  who  had  been  with  him, 
had  had  a  very  trying  and  dangerous  experience  after 
leaving  Fort  Creve-cceur.  They  had  gone  up  the  Illi- 
nois together  to  examine  a  hill  which  La  Salle  had 
suggested  as  a  strong  place  in  case  of  necessity,  and 
during  their  absence  the  men  at  the  fort  deserted 
and  the  Iroquois  war-party  approached  almost  simul- 
taneously. The  fancied  presence  of  Frenchmen 
among  the  latter,  due  to  the  caprice  of  two  Iroquois 
chiefs  who  had  arrayed  themselves  in  a  few  articles 
of  European  dress,  placed  Tonty  and  his  companions 
in  a  delicate  position  with  the  Illinois,  who  suspected 
that  they  were  being  betrayed.  The  situation  re- 
quired the  utmost  caution.  Tonty  stoutly  denied 
the  charge  made  against  his  countrymen,  and  to 
prove  his  honesty  of  design,  offered  to  negotiate  with 
the  enemy.  This  offer  was  accepted  with  some  sus- 
picion, but  the  volunteer  was  given  a  belt  of  wampum 
as  a  truce,  and  accompanied  by  Boisrondet  and  two 
others,  started  toward  the  band  of  already  frenzied 
savages.  As  he  came  within  dangerous  range  of  their 
arrows  and  saw  that  hostilities  were  not  suspended, 
he  sent  his  companions  back,  and  holding  up  the 
pacific  symbol  advanced  alone. 


LA  SALLE  EXPLORES  THE  LOWER  MISSISSIPPI.     115 

Once  in  their  midst  a  curious  crowd  of  half-mad- 
dened Iroquois  pressed  about  the  mediator,  and  a 
young  warrior  among  them,  believing  him  to  be  an 
Illinois,  thrust  a  knife  deep  into  his  side;  but  one  of 
the  chiefs,  calling  attention  to  Tonty 's  unpierced 
ears,  saved  him  from  further  molestation,  and 
wrapped  a  wampum  belt  over  the  wound  to  stop  the 
flow  of  blood. 

Having  done  all  he  could  to  awe  the  invaders  and 
secure  an  advantage  for  the  Illinois,  Tonty  returned 
half -fain  ting,  with  his  peaceful  messages;  but  the 
wary  Iroquois  were  not  thus  easily  to  be  disposed  of. 
Under  the  guise  of  friendship  they  approached  the 
Illinois  village,  taking  in  with  quick  comprehension 
the  real  force  of  their  adversaries,  and  contemptu- 
ously provoking  a  quarrel. 

The  position  of  the  Frenchmen  soon  became  dan- 
gerous. 

Tonty  saw  that  the  Illinois  could  not  resist  their 
enemies,  and  had  clone  all  he  could  to  aid  them; 
while  they  too  began  to  realize  the  situation  and 
were  leaving  the  field.  At  this  point  he  and  his 
companions  prudently  decided  to  retire;  and  finding 
an  old  canoe,  the  little  party  embarked  in  it  and  qui- 
etly ascended  the  river.  On  the  way  the  boat  was 
upset,  and  while  a  halt  was  made  to  repair  it  Father 
Eibourde,  who  was  one  of  the  number,  wandered 
away  and  was  never  again  seen.  Boisrondet  also  be- 
came lost  in  the  forest,  but  escaped  the  lurking  red- 
skins and  was  able  to  find  his  way  back.  At  the 
head  of  the  Illinois  the  canoe  entirely  gave  out,  and 
from  there  on  to  Green  Bay  the  three  refugees  were 
obliged  to  make  their  way  on  foot,  finding  sustenance 
in  herbs  and  roots  which  they  dug  up  as  they  went 


116  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

along.  By  the  latter  part  of  November  they  reached 
the  town  of  a  friendly  Pottawattamie  chief  who  had 
in  several  instances  shown  himself  favorable  to  the 
French,  and  whose  assertion  that  he  knew  but  three 
great  captains  in  the  world,  Frontenac,  La  Salle  and 
himself,  went  far  to  prove  his  good-will. 

Early  the  following  spring  they  started  for  Michili- 
mackinac,  and  there  waited  for  La  Salle. 

That  indefatigable  traveler  was  now  preparing  to 
return  a  third  time  to  Fort  Frontenac  to  straighten  the 
tangled  thread  of  his  affairs,  to  quiet  his  creditors,  and 
to  test  again  the  unfailing  friendship  of  Frontenac. 

This  time,  instead  of  choosing  a  party  entirely  of 
white  men,  whose  good  faith  he  had  found  wanting 
in  many  a  bitter  experience,  he  secured  eighteen  In- 
dians from  the  Abenaki  and  Mohican  tribes,  with 
the  extra  encumbrance  of  ten  squaws  whom  the 
Indians  insisted  upon  taking  along  to  do  camp  work. 
Besides  these  there  were  twenty-three  Frenchmen 
and  three  papooses,  and  with  this  strange  following 
La  Salle  again  undertook  the  exploration  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. On  the  fourth  of  January,  1682,  he  reached 
the  Chicago  Kiver,  where  he  found  Tonty,  Father 
Membre  and  a  small  party  waiting  with  sledges. 
Three  weeks  later  they  made  the  portage  to  the  Illi- 
nois, passed  down  the  river  on  the  ice,  and  found  the 
familiar  village,  which  had  been  re-inhabited  since 
the  late  invasion,  entirely  deserted,  the  Indians  hav- 
ing gone  down  to  the  old  site  of  Fort  Creve-coeur  on 
Peoria  Lake  for  the  winter.  At  this  point  the  river 
was,  as  usual,  open,  and  the  canoes  were  put  into  the 
water,  which  quickly  carried  them  down  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi. There  they  were  delayed  a  week  by  floating 
ice j  but  at  last  on  the  thirteenth  of  February  were 


LA  SALLE  EXPLORES  THE  LOWER  MISSISSIPPI.      11? 

able  to  begin  the  descent  of  the  river,  not  as  La  Salle 
had  once  hoped,  with  spread  sail  and  imposing  cere- 
mony, but  with  a  modest  flotilla  of  Indian  canoes. 
Upon  passing  the  Missouri  Father  Membre  wrote  that 
the  water  was  "hardly  drinkable,"  an  expression 
which  might  amuse  those  familiar  with  the  muddy 
torrent,  and  who  know  the  condition  of  the  main 
stream  even  before  it  is  adulterated  by  its  boisterous 
tributary.  Beyond  this,  on  the  last  bank,  they  came 
upon  the  village  of  the  Tamaroas,  where  they  landed 
and  left  indications  of  their  presence  for  the  absent 
hunters;  being  careful  to  express  the  peaceful  intent 
of  their  journey,  and  thus  secure  a  friendly  reception 
when  they  should  return. 

Notwithstanding  La  Salle's  eagerness  to  push  for- 
ward, the  expedition  was  repeatedly  delayed  that  the 
men  might  hunt  and  fish;  for  having  come  unen- 
cumbered with  provisions  excepting  a  quantity  of 
Indian  corn,  the  party  relied  completely  upon  game 
and  an  occasional  donation  from  the  Indians.  Dur- 
ing one  of  these  halts  for  food  near  the  Third  Chick- 
asaw Bluffs,  one  of  the  men,  Peter  Prudhomme, 
became  separated  from  his  companions  and  was  not 
found  for  nine  days.  In  the  course  of  the  search  for 
him  a  report  was  brought  to  La  Salle  that  a  fresh 
Indian  trail  bad  been  discovered.  The  missing  man 
was  immediately  supposed  to  have  fallen  into  the 
hands  of  the  unknown  savages;  and  fearing  treachery 
to  the  entire  party,  La  Salle  set  the  men  to  building 
a  fort.  Prudhomme  was  found  a  few  days  later  in 
an  exhausted  condition  but  unharmed,  and  La  Salle 
left  him  with  two  or  three  others  in  charge  of  the 
fort  which  he  had  named  in  his  honor,  while  the 
main  party  resumed  the  journey. 


Ii8  Early  Explorers. 

Gradually  the  influence  of  winter  had  passed  away 
as  the  canoes  sped  toward  the  Gulf;  and  to  La  Salle 
who  had  so  often  felt  the  bitterness  of  the  cold  sea- 
sons in  the  northern  wilderness,  the  gracious  warmth 
of  the  South  must  have  had  its  charm. 

Below  fort  Prudhomme  the  voyagers  were  over- 
taken by  a  dense  fog  in  which  they  were  obliged  to 
make  their  way  for  forty  leagues,  and  on  the  third  of 
March,  while  still  impeded  by  it,  they  were  startled 
by  war-cries  and  the  sound  of  the  tocsins  on  the  west 
bank.  Immediately  they  were  on  the  qui  vive,  while 
La  Salle  with  his  usual  caution  moved  to  the  side  of 
the  river  opposite  that  from  which  the  sounds  were 
heard,  had  palisades  thrown  up,  and  within  an  hour 
was  ready  to  meet  the  Indians. 

After  an  exchange  of  friendly  signs  the  entire  party 
crossed  the  river  and  entered  the  Indian  camp,  where 
for  several  days  they  were  feasted  and  treated  with 
the  utmost  generosity,  and  on  the  fourteenth  of 
March  they  raised  a  cross  in  the  village  bearing  the 
arms  of  France,  and  took  possession  of  the  country 
with  solemn  ceremony.  These  proceedings,  while 
wholly  incomprehensible  to  the  Indians,  were  wit- 
nessed by  them  with  apparent  pleasure,  and  Membra" 
had  so  far  succeeded  in  explaining  the  sacred  mean- 
ing of  the  cross  that  upon  the  return  of  the  expedi- 
tion it  was  found  to  be  surrounded  by  a  palisade. 

This  tribe,  perhaps  the  same  Akamseas  which 
Marquette  and  Joliet  encountered,  further  showed 
their  good-will  by  supplying  the  party  with  provis- 
ions and  giving  them  guides  to  conduct  them  to  the 
villages  below.  The  expedition  embarked  from  here 
on  the  seventeenth  of  March,  encountering  on  the 
downward  journey  several  friendly  tribes,  and  at  last 


LA  SALLE  EXPLORES  THE  LOWER  MISSISSIPPI.     119 

stopping  near  the  village  of  the  Taensas,  which  lay 
inland  on  a  bayon  formed  by  a  change  in  the  course 
of  the  river.  La  Salle  was  himself  too  fatigued  to 
go  to  the  village,  but  he  sent  Tonty  and  Father  Mem- 
bre  with  presents  to  the  chief,  being  unwilling  to 
miss  any  opportunity  to  gain  the  favor  of  the  red 
men  along  his  route. 

Coming  within  sight  of  the  Taensas  village,  Tonty 
and  his  companion  were  not  a  little  surprised  to  find 
instead  of  the  ordinary  Indian  lodges  houses  made 
of  mud  and  straw,  and  other  evidences  of  an  approach 
to  civilization.  The  people  of  this  tribe  wore  gar- 
ments of  white  cloth  ingeniously  woven  from  the 
bark  of  trees,  had  some  furniture  in  their  dwellings, 
and  like  the  Indians  whom  De  Soto  encountered, 
understood  the  use  of  metals;  but  while  the  Spanish 
adventurer  had  been  deceived  in  regard  to  the  mines, 
they  were  now  discovered  to  the  later  Frenchman, 
whose  ambition,  however,  reached  so  far  beyond  the 
accumulation  of  personal  wealth  that  he  gave  them 
hardly  a  passing  thought. 

The  chief  of  this  village  paid  La  Salle  the  honor 
of  a  visit,  coming  to  him  with  all  the  ceremony  of  a 
more  civilized  potentate,  and  returning  with  the 
pleased  satisfaction  of  a  child  over  the  gifts  which 
his  white  brother  had  lavishly  but  prudently  be- 
stowed. 

From  here  La  Salle  again  ordered  the  advance,  and 
the  expedition  moved  forward  without  encountering 
any  Indians  until  the  twenty-sixth  of  March,  when  a 
canoe  was  seen  on  the  river  twelve  miles  below. 
The  impetuous  Tonty  immediately  gave  chase,  but 
was  ordered  to  return  by  La  Salle,  who  saw  that  a 
band  of  warriors  had  assembled  on  the  shore  ready  to 


120  EARLY    EXPLORERS. 

greet  the  strange  intruder  with  a  shower  of  arrows. 
He  was  soon  sent  back  with  the  calumet  and  was 
kindly  received,  learning  that  the  Indians  belonged 
to  the  Natchez  tribe,  and  that  they  desired  the  white 
men  to  visit  them  at  their  village.  It  lay  three 
leagues  inland,  but,  says  Membre,  ft  the  Sieur  de  La 
Salle  did  not  hesitate  to  go  there."  He  raised  a  large 
cross  bearing  the  arms  of  France  in  the  midst  of  the 
lodges,  taking  possession  of  the  country  in  the  name 
of  the  French  King,  much  to  the  amusement  of  his 
unsuspecting  entertainers. 

At  the  village  of  the  Koroa,  who  were  allies  of  the 
Natchez,  lying  ten  leagues  below,  the  Frenchmen 
were  again  generously  received,  and  La  Salle  was  pre- 
sented with  a  peace-pipe  from  the  chief;  but  further 
down  they  met  with  a  different  reception,  for,  coming 
unexpectedly  upon  a  party  of  Quinipissa  fishermen, 
the  frightened  Indians  fled,  while  their  friends  from 
the  shore  covered  their  retreat  with  drawn  bows. 
Seeing  that  to  further  follow  them  was  useless,  the 
voyagers  kept  their  way,  soon  reaching  the  last  and 
most  peaceful  village  on  their  route.  Here  they  dis- 
embarked and  advanced  toward  the  lodges,  but  no 
one  appeared  to  resent  their  intrusion,  and  gaining 
confidence  as  thev  neared  the  silent  habitations,  thev 
cautiously  peered  within  their  gloomy  recesses.  There 
they  found  a  sickening  sight,  for  less  friendly  visitors 
had  preceded  them,  and  with  fearful  vengeance  had 
sent  their  unsuspicious  victims  with  scalping-knife 
and  tomahawk  to  the  "happy  hunting  grounds." 

"  At  last,"  says  Father  Membre,  "  after  a  naviga- 
tion of  about  forty  leagues,  we  arrived  on  the  sixth 
of  April  at  a  point  where  the  river  divides  into  three 
channels.    The  Sieur  de  La  Salle  divided  his  party  the 


m 


122  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

next  day  into  three  bands,  to  go  and  explore  them. 
He  took  the  western,  the  Sienr  Dautray  the  south- 
ern, the  Sieur  de  Tonty,  whom  I  accompanied,  the 
middle  one.  These  three  channels  are  beautiful  and 
deep.  The  water  is  brackish;  after  advancing  two 
leagues  it  became  perfectly  salt,  and  advancing  on  we 
discovered  the  open  sea,  so  that  on  the  ninth  of  April, 
with  all  possible  solemnity,  we  performed  the  cere- 
mony of  planting  the  cross  and  raising  the  arms  of 
France/'  The  priests  then  chanted  the  "  Vexilla 
Regis"  and  the  "Te  Deum,"  the  men  shouted 
"  Vive  le  Mot/'  and  La  Salle,  after  taking  formal  pos- 
session of  the  Great  River,  "  of  all  rivers  that  enter 
into  it,  and  of  all  the  country  watered  by  them,"  read 
a  document  certifying  the  fact  and  amply  proving 
the  credit  due  him.  This  he  asked  those  who  were 
with  him  to  sign,  taking  in  the  meanwhile  a  careful 
estimate  of  the  latitude  of  the  mouth.  By  this  act 
all  of  the  country  "  from  the  Alleghenies  to  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  from  the  Rio  Grande  and  the 
Gulf  to  the  farthest  springs  of  the  Missouri,"  was 
appropriated  by  this  zealous  subject  of  the  Grand 
Monarch,  and  named  in  his  honor  Louisiana. 

The  supply  of  provisions  was  now  entirely  ex- 
hausted, but  when  the  descent  of  the  river  was  com- 
menced there  were  opportunities  to  obtain  food 
from  the  Indians  or  by  the  hunt. 

On  the  thirteenth  of  April  the  smoke  of  the  Quin- 
ipissa  village  was  seen,  and  a  party  was  sent  out  to 
reconnoitre.  Four  squaws  were  taken,  and  by  keep- 
ing three  of  them  as  hostages  while  the  fourth  was 
sent  back  with  presents,  a  small  quantity  of  corn  was 
obtained.  The  gift  was  grudgingly  given,  however, 
and   La  Salle's   men  were   obliged  to   act  with  the 


LA  SALLE  EXPLORES  THE  LOWER  MISSISSIPPI.     123 

utmost  caution  in  order  to  avoid  treachery.  Being 
invited  to  a  feast  at  the  village,  they  soon  discovered 
that  the  pretended  hospitality  was  only  a  ruse  in- 
tended to  ensnare  them;  for  stray  Indians  were 
seen  approaching,  armed  and  evidently  ready  to  give 
the  white  men  a  surprise.  La  Salle  and  his  follow- 
ers kept  their  weapons  well  in  sight  and  no  assault 
was  then  attempted;  but  the  following  morning 
before  dawn  the  sentinel  heard  a  rustling  in  the  cane- 
brakes  near  the  camp,  and  giving  the  alarm,  a  band 
of  prowling  red-skins  was  discovered.  Showers  of 
arrows  responded  to  the  guns  of  the  white  men,  and 
although  it  rained,  a  spirited  fight  ensued;  but  the 
Indians  losing  heavily  without  being  able  to  injure 
their  antagonists,  soon  fled.  Thoroughly  exasperated, 
La  Salle's  men  were  on  the  point  of  burning  the 
village  of  their  would-be  murderers,  but  their  leader 
restrained  them,  foreseeing  a  future  need  of  their 
good-will.  When  the  party  reached  the  villages 
farther  up  the  river  they  found  that  their  late  ene- 
mies had  stirred  up  a  feeling  of  distrust  against  them, 
but  La  Salle  skillfully  regained  the  confidence  of  the 
disaffected  chiefs  and  was  allowed  to  continue  unmo- 
lested. He  was  soon  delayed  by  something  more 
serious  than  savage  opposition,  however,  for  near 
Fort  Prudhomme  he  fell  ill  and  was  obliged  to  remain 
there  several  weeks,  while  Tonty  in  the  meanwhile 
went  on  to  Michilimackinac,  from  whence  he  sent  a 
report  of  the  recent  expedition  to  the  Governor. 
Frontenac  no  longer  held  that  office,  having  been 
replaced  by  La  BarreV,  a  man  of  altogether  different 
character  and  strongly  prejudiced  against  La  Salle. 

The   latter,  having   recovered,  hastened   to   meet 
Tonty  and  leave  instructions  with  him  regarding  the 


124  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

fort  which  he  intended  to  build  on  the  Illinois,  while 
he  prepared  to  go  to  Quebec.  His  affairs  were  now 
in  a  lamentable  condition,  and  it  was  necessary  to 
take  active  steps  to  right  them.  Scores  of  creditors 
in  Canada  were  waiting  for  the  explorer's  great 
schemes  to  materialize,  while  he,  thoroughly  confi- 
dent of  success,  was  yet  able  to  reassure  them.  As 
before  suggested,  his  intention  was  to  make  the  new 
fort  a  large  trading  post  and  the  center  of  a  prosper- 
ous colony,  while  by  virtue  of  its  position  it  would  be 
a  stronghold  against  the  Iroquois.  Around  it  would 
gather  the  numerous  tribes  of  the  West  seeking  pro- 
tection, who  would  pour  into  its  storehouses  the 
wealth  of  unlimited  hunting  grounds.  It  was  to  be 
the  first  in  a  chain  of  similar  colonies  which  he  in- 
tended to  establish  along  the  entire  length  of  the 
Great  Eiver,  to  which  the  projected  post  at  the  Gulf 
was  to  be  the  key.  In  this  the  ambitious  La  Salle 
could  see  the  prosperous  accomplishment  of  all  his 
plans.  France  benefited;  the  New  World  committed 
to  her  interests;  creditors  appeased,  and  his  own 
unceasing  efforts  crowned.  But  he  was  doomed  to 
disappointment.  Reports  were  brought  of  an  im- 
pending Iroquois  invasion,  and  instead  of  hastening 
to  France  as  he  had  intended,  he  was  obliged  to 
remain  at  the  new  fort — Saint  Louis— to  prepare  for 
attack.  From  here  he  sent  men  to  Quebec  to  obtain 
supplies,  in  anticipation  of  a  siege,  but  so  great  was 
La  BarH's  jealousy  of  La  Salle  that  he  detained  them. 
It  is  even  said  that  he  encouraged  the  Iroquois  in 
making  their  raid  upon  the  western  tribes,  that  La 
Salle  might  be  involved  in  the  general  ruin,  thus  sac- 
rificing his  country's  interests  to  his  personal  ambi- 
tion; but  whether  or  not   this  has  any  foundation, 


LA  SALLE  EXPLORES  THE  LOWER  MISSISSIPPI.      125 

it  is  evident  that  he  took  extreme  measures  to  thwart 
the  explorer,  attempting  even  to  prejudice  the  King, 
and  so  far  succeeding  that  Louis,  in  a  letter  to  the 
Governor,  expressed  his  belief  in  the  uselessness  of 
La  Salle's  discoveries.  He  then  assumed  the  respon- 
sibility of  seizing  Fort  Frontenac  under  some  slight 
pretext,  following  up  this  piracy  by  sending  an  offi- 
cer to  take  possession  of  Fort  Saint  Louis,  with  orders 
to  La  Salle  to  report  at  Quebec. 

As  the  Iroquois  had  not  made  the  expected  raid, 
La  Salle  was  at  the  time  going  to  Canada,  en  route 
for  France.  He  therefore  met  the  Governor's  emis- 
sary on  the  way,  but  maintaining  his  usual  composure 
sent  back  word  to  Tonty  to  receive  the  Chevalier 
de  Baugis  well;  while  he,  still  undaunted,  sought  to 
redress  his  wrongs  and  claim  an  unprejudiced  hear- 
ing at  the  Court  of  Versailles. 


.^ 


Erecting  Cross  at  a  n  Indian  Village, 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

LAST    VOYAGE   AND    DEATH   OF   LA    SALLE. 

OUIS,  partially  influenced  by  the  opinions  of 
his  late  minister,  and  no  doubt  stirred 
by  the  earnestness  of  the  explorer  him- 
self— who,  still  inspired  by  the  vast 
possibilities  of  the  New  World,  was 
anxious  that  France  should  realize  and 
profit  by  them — had  listened  favorably 
to  La  Salle's  proposals,  and  had  con- 
firmed his  approval  by  letters  patent  bearing  his 
royal  sign  and  seal.  Colbert  had  previously  discussed 
with  La  Salle  the  feasibility  of  ki  finding  a  port 
where  the  French  might  establish  themselves  and 
harass  the  Spaniards  in  those  regions  from  whence 
they  derive  all  their  wealth,"  and  this  scheme,  again 
brought  to  the  notice  of  the  King,  prompted  that 
enthusiasm  which  led  him  to  provide  more  than  had 
been  asked  for  the  success  of  the  enterprise.  Should 
the  friendly  relations  maintained  between  France  and 
Spain  prevent  any'  immediate  encroachment  upon 
the  Mexican  possessions  of  the  latter,  the  policy  of 
La  Salle  was  to  follow  the  original  plan  of  establish- 
ing a  colony  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  where 
he  would  be  prepared  at  the  slightest  intimation  of 
hostilities  to  make  a  raid  upon  the  Mexican  mines. 
In  this  case  he  further  intimated  that  "if  the  Span- 
iards should  delay  satisfying  the  King  at  the  conclu- 
sion of  a  peace,  an  expedition  at  this  point  will  oblige 

(126) 


DEATH   OF  LA   SALLE.  127 

them  to  hasten  its  conclusion,  and  to  give  His 
Majesty  important  places  in  Europe  in  exchange  for 
those  which  they  may  lose  in  a  country  of  the  posses- 
sion of  which  they  are  extremely  jealous." 

While  these  motives  evidently  excited  the  King's 
interest  in  the  enterprise  and  secured  his  hearty  coop- 
eration, the  first  object  of  the  expedition  was  nomi- 
nally the  subjection  and  conversion  of  the  savage 
nations  of  America,  and  it  was  therefore  in  conform- 
ity to  these  motives  that  La  Salle  was  careful  to 
include  among  those  who  were  to  form  his  company 
a  sufficient  number  of  missionaries.  Agents  were 
sent  to  Kochefort  and  Eochelle  to  secure  soldiers  and 
artisans;  several  families  were  enlisted  for  the  colony, 
and  by  the  twenty-fourth  of  July,  1684,  all  preparations 
were  completed,  the  company  was  aboard  the  boats,  and 
together  with  twenty  other  vessels  bound  for  Canada, 
the  fleet  sailed  from  Rochelle.  The  Canadian  vessels 
no  doubt  bore  the  letters  to  La  Barre  expressing  the 
King's  disapproval  of  his  late  proceedings,  and  re- 
quiring the  return  of  all  property  seized  unlawfully 
belonging  to  his  protege,  the  Sieur  de  la  Salle. 

The  naval  command  of  La  Salle's  expedition  had 
been  given  to  Captain  de  Beaujeu,  whom  Le  Clercq 
says  was  known  for  valor,  experience,  and  meritorious 
service;  who  had  indeed  been  a  naval  captain  for 
thirteen  years,  as  he  himself  tells  Seignelay  in  one  of 
his  letters  of  complaint;  but  his  long  position  of 
authority  and  natural  pride  made  him  chafe  under 
the  calm  assumption  of  one  whom  he  contemptuously 
calls  a  "civilian"  and  who  was  possessed  of  Quite  as 
much  hauteur  as  himself.  The  King  moreover  had 
given  La  Salle  almost  unlimited  authority,  which 
easi  ly  gave  him  the  advantage  in  matters  of  dispute. 


128  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

Once  at  sea,  this  unfortunate  feeling  of  antagonism 
soon  manifested  itself,  and  a  trifling  accident  which 
occurred  when  the  fleet  was  about  fifty  leagues  out 
was  considered  by  some — La  Salle  among  them — to 
have  been  deliberately  planned.  This  was  the  break- 
ing of  the  bowsprit  of  the  royal  ship  "  Joly,"  which 
was  under  the  personal  command  of  Beau j en.  It  was 
necessary  to  return  in  order  to  repair  the  injury,  and 
in  the  meantime  the  ships  bound  for  Canada,  which 
were  to  have  kept  with  the  smaller  fleet  as  far  as 
Cape  Finisterre,  continued  to  that  point  alone.  On 
the  eighth  of  August  La  Salle's  party  reached  the  Cape, 
and  on  the  twentieth  sighted  the  Island  of  Madeira. 
Here  Beaujeu  wished  to  cast  anchor  for  water  and  pro- 
visions, as  there  had  been  some  misunderstanding  at  the 
start  about  the  length  of  the  voyage  and  the  number 
of  passengers;  but  La  Salle  considered  this  unneces- 
sary, and  feared  besides  that  the  Spaniards  might 
hear  of  their  coming,  which  would  place  them  under 
suspicion. 

Although  La  Salle's  reasons  for  passing  the  island 
were  excellent,  Beaujeu  and,  in  fact,  the  entire  crew 
were  out  of  humor  with  his  decision,  and  Joutel,  look- 
ing back  over  the  disastrous  period  which  followed, 
says:  "These  misunderstandings  *  *  *  laid  the 
foundation  of  those  tragical  events  which  afterward 
put  an  unhappy  end  to  M.  de  La  Salle's  life  and 
undertaking,  and  occasioned  our  ruin." 

Beaujeu  then  declared  that  no  stop  should  be 
made  but  at  the  Island  of  San  Domingo. 

In  passing  the  Tropic  of  Cancer  on  the  way  thither, 
the  sailors  prepared  to  carry  out  their  usual  practice 
of  "ducking."  A  tub  was  placed  on  deck  and 
everything  made  ready  for  the  ludicrous  and  annoying 


DEATH   OF  LA   SALLE.  129 

ceremony,  when  La  Salle  interfered,  saying  that 
those  under  his  command  should  have  no  part  in 
it;  thereupon  Beaujeu  forbade  the  men  to  put  the 
plan  into  execution,  and  this  again  brought  the 
chief  into  disfavor. 

Together  with  these  tempests  on  board  the  boats, 
the  fleet  was  several  times  threatened  with  storms 
from  without.  The  "  Aimable"  and  the  "  Belle/' 
with  the  heavily  loaded  ketch  "  Saint  Francis,"  often 
became  separated  from  the  "  Joly  "  and  were  obliged 
to  lie  to  for  fair  weather,  or  follow  as  their  heavier 
cargoes  permitted.  During  one  of  these  storms  off 
San  Domingo  the  vessels  became  dispersed,  the 
"Joly"  as  usual  keeping  the  lead.  La  Salle  in  the 
meantime  had  expressed  his  desire  to  stop  at  Port  de 
Paix,  which  was  a  convenient  point,  and  where  he  was 
to  obtain  supplies  for  the  expedition  according  to  a 
pre-arranged  plan  with  M.  de  Cussy,  Governor  of  the 
Island  of  Tortuga;  but  Beaujeu,  evidently  to  gratify 
personal  pique,  passed  the  place  in  the  night,  anchoring 
on  the  twenty- seventh  of  September  at  Petit  Gouave  on 
the  other  side  of  the  island.  This  was  a  great  annoy- 
ance to  La  Salle,  the  more  so  as  he  was  himself  ill, 
and  was  every  day  becoming  more  convinced,  not 
only  of  Beaujeu's  indifference,  but  of  the  utter 
worthlessness  of  the  men  whom  his  agents  had 
secured  to  aid  him  in  his  enterprise.  He  accepted 
the  situation  with  characteristic  fortitude,  however, 
and  on  the  day  following  the  arrival  at  Petit  Gouave, 
having  somewhat  recovered  from  his  illness,  he  went 
ashore  to  send  messages  to  De  Cussy,  Begon  the 
intendant,  and  the  Marquis  de  Saint  Laurent,  Lieu- 
tenant-governor of  the  islands.  He  then  provided 
more  comfortable  quarters  for  the  sick,  who  numbered 
9 


130  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

more  than  fifty,  and  whose  maladies  in  most  cases 
had  been  brought  on  by  their  own  excesses. 

At  this  unfortunate  time  he  was  himself  attacked 
by  a  violent  fever  and  was  delirious  for  several  days, 
only  regaining  consciousness  long  enough  to  realize 
the  condition  of  his  affairs.  His  men  being  nnder 
ho  restraint  became  more  dissipated  than  ever,  and 
Bean j en  at  this  crisis  held  coolly  aloof.  Word  was 
also  brought  of  the  loss  of  the  "  Saint  Francis, "  one  of 
the  disastrous  results  of  the  captain's  obstinacy.  She 
had  been  taken  by  the  Spaniards  while  attempting 
to  come  up  with  the  other  vessels  after  a  storm.  It 
probably  afforded  La  Salle  small  satisfaction  to  learn 
from  his  friends  on  the  island  that  this  would  not 
have  occurred  if  Beaujeu  had  stopped  at  Port  de  Paix. 

Having  made  reparation  as  far  as  possible  for  this 
loss,  La  Salle  hastened  the  embarkation,  as  his  men 
were  fast  becoming  demoralized  and  many  of  them 
had  already  deserted.  At  a  council  of  pilots  held  to 
decide  upon  the  point  to  be  reached  before  making 
the  final  voyage,  the  Island  of  Cuba  or  Cape  Saint 
Anthony  was  determined  upon.  At  night,  on  the  fifth 
of  December,  they  cast  anchor  in  a  small  creek  on  the 
Isle  of  Pines,  where  they  stayed  for  three  days  wait- 
ing for  fair  weather.  Here,  according  to  Joutel, 
La  Salle  "shot  an  alligator  dead,"  which  the  soldiers 
proceeded  to  boil  and  eat;  but  the  fastidious  narrator 
remarks  that  they  had  "good  stomachs,"  and  that 
he  could  not  relish  the  meat,  for  it  had  a  taste  of 
musk. 

Quantities  of  wild  swine  were  seen,  which  were 
probably  "  of  the  breed  of  those  the  Spaniards  left 
in  the  islands  when  they  first  discovered  them."  One 
of  these  was  killed  and  sent  to  La  Salle,  who  divided 


DEATH    OF    LA    SALLE.  131 

the  feast  with  the  naval  commander.  Again  on  the 
eighth  sails  were  set,  with  Cape  Saint  Anthony  as  the 
objective,  which  was  reached  four  days  later;  but  the 
winds  being  unfavorable  the  expedition  halted  only 
one  night  there,  moving  away  on  the  thirteenth. 
The  winds  being  again  unfavorable,  Beaujeu  sug- 
gested that  the  boats  return  to  the  cape,  to  which 
La  Salle  agreed,  being  careful  not  to  give  the  captain 
any  cause  to  complain.  On  the  eighteenth  of  the 
same  month  the  fleet  started  forward  in  a  fresh  wind, 
moving  generally  to  the  northwest,  and  on  the  first 
of  January,  1685,  was  driven  toward  the  coast  by  the 
current.  It  was  then  decided  that  a  boat  be  sent  out 
to  discover  land,  La  Salle,  Beaujeu,  and  D'Aire  being 
among  the  passengers.  The  result  was  unsatisfac- 
tory, and  the  wind  rising,  forced  them  back  to  the 
ships.  A  few  days  later  a  calm  tempted  La  Salle  to 
go  ashore  again  to  get  some  idea  of  his  position;  but 
the  pilot  took  exception  to  the  number  of  men  who 
were  to  accompany  him,  and  he  unaccountably  aban- 
doned the  idea.  The  ships  were  at  that  time  proba- 
bly near  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
had  an  exploration  been  made  La  Salle's  entire  des- 
tiny might  have  been  altered.  He  seemed,  however, 
to  have  been  entirely  ignorant  of  the  locality,  believ- 
ing he  was  yet  far  to  the  eastward — near  the  Bay  of 
Appalachee.  He  was  therefore  satisfied  to  send  out 
the  pilot  and  one  of  the  masters  of  the  boat  "  La 
Belle,"  who  soon  returned  on  account  of  a  fog.  The 
pilot's  companion  reported  that  he  believed  there  was 
a  river  beyond  the  shoals  that  had  been  sighted  on 
the  sixth,  "and  yet,"  says  Joutel,  "M.  de  La  Salle 
took  no  notice  of  it,  nor  made  any  account  of  that 
report."     Soon  after  this  another  attempt  was  made 


132  EAKLY  EXPLORERS. 

to  reach  the  shore,  as  the  supply  of  water  had  given 
out,  Joutel  being  sent  in  charge  of  the  boats.  On 
nearing  land  a  number  of  Indians  were  seen  walking 
along  the  sandy  beach,  who  signaled  to  the  crew  to 
come  on,  but  the  sea  was  very  high  and  the  boats 
would  be  in  danger  of  going  aground.  Joutel  now 
determined,  if  possible,  to  get  the  Indians  to  come 
out,  that  he  might  take  them  back  to  the  "Aim- 
able,"  where  La  Salle  could  question  them.  He  there- 
fore signaled  to  them  in  turn,  putting  a  handker- 
chief on  the  end  of  his  fire-lock  in  token  of  peace. 
In  an  instant  their  swarthy  bodies  were  seen  battling 
with  the  waves,  but  they  could  not  stand  against 
them  and  were  forced  back  to  shore.  With  quick 
intelligence  they  devised  a  plan,  however,  and  soon 
put  it  into  execution.  Finding  a  large  piece  of 
timber,  they  threw  it  into  the  water  and  arranged 
themselves  on  either  side  of  it,  each  man  putting  one 
arm  around  it  and  swimming  with  the  other.  When 
they  reached  the  boats  they  were  taken  in,  naked  and 
streaming,  and  carried  back  to  the  vessel.  The  trip 
was  useless,  however,  for  La  Salle  could  neither  under- 
stand them  nor  make  them  understand  him.  He 
gave  them  beads  and  trinkets,  according  to  his  cus- 
tom, which  were  tied  in  their  hair  and  about  their 
necks,  and  thus  adorned  they  were  taken  out  to  the 
place  of  meeting,  from  whence  they  swam  ashore. 

When  not  hindered  by  calms  the  ships  now  bore 
steadily  westward,  expecting  to  find  some  signs  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  still  misguided  by  the  advice  received 
at  San  Domingo.  Frequent  landings  were  made  in 
the  meantime  for  fresh  water  and  game,  and  hav- 
ing reached  the  sandy  shores  of  Texas,  where  the 
western  curve  of  the  Gulf  commences,  without  finding 


DEATH   OF   LA   SALLE.  133 

"the  fatal  river/'  as  Joutel  calls  it,  La  Salle  pro- 
posed to  return  and  make  investigations  about  the 
point  which  had  been  passed  on  the  sixth  of  January; 
but  ill  success  had  somewhat  weakened  his  cause, 
and  Beaujeu,  probably  glad  of  the  opportunity,  now 
offered  objections.  In  the  first  place  he  sent  D'Aire 
with  various  grievances;  among  others  that  La  Salle — 
who  had  hurried  ahead  in  the  "  Aimable,"  eagerly 
seeking  the  Mississippi — had  designedly  left  him.  He 
then  complained  that  provisions  had  fallen  short  and 
that  there  would  not  be  enough  to  last  for  the  return 
voyage  to  France;  but  it  was  not  La  Salle's  intention 
to  return  without  making  another  attempt  to  find 
his  river,  and  he  therefore  offered  to  supply  Beaujeu's 
ship,  the  "  Joly,"  with  two  weeks'  provisions  from 
his  own.  Beaujeu  was  dissatisfied  with  this,  and  left 
La  Salle  without  further  discussing  the  matter. 
Meanwhile  boats  went  ashore  for  water  and  to  give 
the  men  a  chance  to  hunt,  La  Salle  being  among  the 
passengers.  Here  D'Aire  again  came  to  him  to  talk 
about  the  provisions,  still  insisting  that  the  "  Joly" 
be  supplied  for  a  longer  period  than  two  weeks. 
La  Salle  not  only  explained  that  this  would  be  ample 
time  to  carry  out  his  plans,  but  that  a  larger  supply 
would  necessitate  rummaging  the  hold  of  the  "  Aim- 
able."  D'Aire  returned  with  La  Salle's  messages, 
while  the  latter,  wishing  to  find  a  river  which  would 
give  a  better  supply  of  water  than  the  one  near  which 
the  vessels  were  then  anchored,  sent  on  a  small  party 
to  explore.  After  following  the  shore  line  for  some 
distance  they  found  a  "great  river."  Signals  were 
raised  for  the  boats  to  join  them,  and  La  Salle  hoped 
this  might  be  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Mississippi. 
Soundings  were  made  all  along  and  stakes  set  to 


134  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

guide  their  passage,  for  La  Salle  desired  that  they 
come  to  anchor  at  this  point.  He  then  sent  the  pilot 
of  "La  Belle"  to  assist  in  bringing  in  the  fly- 
boat,  but  Beaujeu,  angry  about  the  provisions  and 
thwarted  in  his  already  meditated  plan  of  desertion, 
refused  to  let  him  come  aboard,  saying  he  could  get 
along  very  well  without  his  help. 

Another  event  occurring  soon  after  seemed  to  pre- 
sage misfortune.  La  Salle  had  set  some  men  to  hew- 
ing down  a  tree  on  the  river  bank,  and  while  at  work 
they  were  surprised  by  Indians  and  several  of  their 
number  captured.  The  rest  ran  terrified  to  report 
to  La  Salle,  who  immediately  caused  the  party  to 
pursue  the  savages  with  drums  beating.  This  had 
the  desired  effect  of  scaring  them.  He  then  had  ten 
of  the  men  lay  aside  their  arms  and  with  him 
approach  the  Indians,  as  he  wished  to  get  what 
information  he  could  from  them  and  secure  the 
captives  peaceably.  This  was  of  no  avail,  however, 
for  they  could  not  make  themselves  understood,  and 
they  had  led  away  the  men  during  the  conference. 
La  Salle  was  therefore  obliged  to  follow  them  to  their 
village.  On  the  way  there  the  Indians  were  attracted 
by  the  ships,  which  could  be  plainly  seen,  and  La 
Salle,  following  their  gaze,  noticed  with  some  uneasi- 
ness that  the  "  Aimable"  was  under  sail  and  moving 
in  the  wrong  direction;  yet  he  was  determined  to 
rescue  the  captives,  and  therefore  did  not  turn  back. 
Soon  the  report  of  a  cannon  broke  the  stillness.  The 
Indians,  terrified,  fell  upon  their  faces,  while  La  Salle, 
looking  over  the  Gulf,  saw  the  "  Aimable "  with 
furled  sails  stranded  upon  the  shoals.  The  signal 
of  distress  meant  an  inestimable  loss,  for  on  this  ship 
were  almost  all  the  tools  and  ammunition  for  the 


DEATH   OF   LA    SALLE.  135 

expedition;  and  although  the  accident  was  due  to 
direct  opposition  to  La  Salle's  orders — perhaps  even  to 
treachery — "  his  intrepidity  did  not  forsake  him  and 
he  applied  himself  without  grieving  to  remedy  what 
might  be."  Notwithstanding  the  weight  of  anxiety 
pressing  upon  him,  he  waited  for  the  release  of  his 
men,  and  then  hurrying  to  the  shore  did  all  in  his 
power  to  recover  part  of  the  cargo  of  the  ruined  ves- 
sel. Some  gunpowder  and  flour  were  saved,  but 
while  the  work  was  going  on  the  sky  became  overcast 
and  a  storm  broke  upon  the  dismal  scene. 

A  party  of  Indians  taking  advantage  of  the  general 
confusion  came  down  to  the  beach  to  plunder,  but 
La  Salle's  effectual  tactics  were  resorted  to,  and  the 
drums  soon  put  them  to  flight.  Later  they  succeeded 
in  stealing  a  roll  of  blankets,  and  volunteers  were 
sent  to  recover  them,  but  finding  that  the  squaws 
had  already  cut  them  up  for  skirts,  they  indiscreetly 
showed  their  anger  and  further  excited  the  savages  by 
taking  some  of  their  canoes.  The  result  was  fatal; 
for,  being  unfamiliar  with  the  frail  craft  and  delayed 
by  obstructions,  they  made  very  slow  progress  and 
were  overtaken  by  darkness  not  far  below  the  Indian 
village.  The  vengeful  inhabitants  had  stealthily 
followed  them,  and  when  their  victims  were  asleep 
sent  a  salute  of  arrows  into  their  midst,  killing  two  of 
the  men  and  wounding  La  Salle's  nephew,  Moranguet. 
The  latter,  however,  was  not  too  badly  hurt  to  dis- 
charge his  gun  at  the  unseen  assailants,  which  for  a 
time  frightened  them  off. 

This  affair,  coupled  with  recent  disasters,  tended 
to  increase  the  general  discontent,  and  Beaujeu  now 
prepared  to  return,  saying  that  as  the  Mississippi — 
or  at  least  what  was  supposed  to  be  that  river — had 


136  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

been  reached,  his  obligation  was  practically  at  an  end. 
La  Salle  was  evidently  very  willing  to  forego  his 
assistance,  merely  requesting  that  some  ammunition 
which  belonged  to  him  on  board  the  "Joly"  be 
turned  over  to  him;  but  Beaujeu,  perhaps  with  a 
lingering  feeling  of  spite,  gave  as  an  excuse  for  not 
meeting  this  request  the  fact  that  the  goods  lay  at  the 
bottom  of  the  hold,  and  by  searching  for  them  he 
would  endanger  the  vessel.  Besides  this,  he  allowed 
the  entire  crew  of  the  ' '  Aimable  "  to  follow  her  cap- 
tain and  return  with  him  to  France. 

That  this  conduct  was  the  result  of  deliberate 
treachery  was  confirmed  by  later  events;  and  it  has 
even  been  proved  that  the  faithless  captain  after 
leaving  La  Salle  went  himself  in  search  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, found  it,  and,  although  provisions  had  been 
alarmingly  short  before,  remained  in  the  vicinity  of 
its  mouth  long  enough  to  enable  the  engineer  Minet 
to  make  two  maps.  He  then  set  sail,  gracefully  turn- 
ing his  back  upon  the  lonely  shores  of  the  Gulf, 
where  far  to  the  westward — within  what  is  now 
known  as  Matagorda  Bay — the  abandoned  and  well- 
nigh  despairing  little  colony  under  La  Salle  was  left 
to  accomplish  the  great  ends  which  that  intrepid 
explorer  had  planned. 

Although  the  outlook  was  rather  disheartening 
after  the  departure  of  the  "  Joly,"  no  time  was  given 
over  to  idle  lamenting.  From  the  wreck  of  the 
"Aimable,"  Fort  Saint  Louis  was  built,  the  colonists 
and  some  of  the  men  were  safely  domiciled  within  its 
palisades,  and  Joutel  left  in  command,  while  La 
Salle  went  to  discover  if  the  river  they  had  reached 
were  indeed  what  he  had  hoped — the  western  mouth 
of  the  Mississippi. 


DEATH  OF  LA  8ALLE.  137 

Orders  were  left  to  hold  no  communication  with 
Indians  and  to  fire  upon  any  who  might  approach. 

La  Salle  hearing  shots  a  few  days  afterward,  and 
fearing  they  might  be  a  signal  of  distress,  returned 
to  see  if  all  was  well.  He  had  found  in  the  mean- 
time that  the  "great  river  "which  they  had  hap- 
lessly come  upon  was  not  the  one  on  which  the  colo- 
nists were  to  find  a  home  and  fortune;  but  their 
immediate  wants  must  be  supplied,  and  for  this 
reason  La  Salle  selected  a  more  convenient  place  to 
the  eastward  of  Fort  Saint  Louis,  on  a  small  river 
which  he  named  La  Vache. 

Joutel,  abandoning  the  old  fort  to  join  the  party 
here  some  time  later,  found  a  forlorn  condition  of 
things.  Owing  to  the  scarcity  of  timber,  the  men, 
women,  and  children  were  living  in  wretched  little 
huts  and  tents,  the  crops  were  a  miserable  failure, 
and  in  fact  failure  seemed  to  typify  the  whole  enter- 
prise. La  Salle,  however,  was  still  hopeful  and 
undaunted.  He  sent  Joutel  back  to  Fort  Saint  Louis 
with  "La  Belle,"  the  only  boat  now  left,  to  get  the 
timber  which  had  been  squared  and  hidden  in  the 
sand.  With  this,  new  buildings  were  thrown  up  and 
more  comfortable  quarters  established ;  yet  the  seem- 
ing air  of  prosperity  still  covered  miserable  realities, 
for  disease  and  death  were  3  very  day  adding  to  the 
overwhelming  numbers  who  had  perished  within  the 
year. 

There  was  now  no  time  to  be  lost,  and  La  Salle  with 
thirty  men  went  once  more  in  search  of  the  "fatal 
river."  This  time,  anticipating  bad  faith,  he  left 
additional  orders  with  Joutel  telling  him  to  receive 
no  man  of  those  who  went  with  him  except  he 
brought  a  message  from  him  in  writing.     It  soon 


138  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

transpired  that  this  order  was  not  made  without 
reason. 

One  evening  a  few  weeks  after  La  Salle's  depart- 
ure the  sentinel  keeping  his  lonely  watch  within  the 
fort  was  startled  by  the  sound  of  a  voice  coming  from 
the  direction  of  the  river,  calling  "  Dominick!"  the 
name  of  the  younger  Duhaut.  Joutel  was  summoned, 
and  in  an  instant  all  the  men  were  assembled  in  the 
open  inclosure.  The  commander  advanced  to  see 
who  the  intruder  might  be,  and  found  Duhaut  in  a 
canoe  near  the  shore.  Joutel  was  in  doubt  as  to 
whether  or  not  he  ought  to  enforce  La  Salle's  order, 
but  Duhaut  told  a  very  plausible  story  of  becoming 
separated  from  the  party  and  of  being  unable  to 
overtake  it,  and  Joutel  saw  no  other  course  but  to 
allow  him  to  enter.  "  Thus  it  pleased  God,"  he 
says,  "that  he  who  was  to  be  one  of  the  murderers 
of  M.  de  La  Salle  should  come  off  safe  and  surmount 
almost  infinite  dangers."  Some  time  after  this  La 
Salle  himself  returned  with  a  few  ragged  and  weary 
men,  after  an  unsuccessful  tramp  through  forests  and 
over  prairies  in  quest  of  the  river  which  the  explorer 
was  destined  never  to  reach. 

On  the  day  of  his  arrival  Joutel  happened  to  be 
walking  on  top  of  one  of  the  buildings,  and  seeing  a 
body  of  men  advancing  over  the  prairie  hurried  out 
to  meet  them.  They  proved  to  be  La  Salle  and  eight 
of  his  followers,  the  remainder  having  been  left  on 
the  bank  of  a  river  which  was  thought  to  be  the  Mis- 
sissippi, while  the  crew  of  the  "  Belle,"  with  the 
boat  itself,  which  had  kept  along  the  coast,  had  dis- 
appeared and  was  supposed  to  be  lost.  With  this 
the  last  hope  of  returning  to  France  was  aban- 
doned; the  Mississippi  was  still  undiscovered;  every 


DEATH  OF  LA   SALLE.  139 

undertaking  had  failed,  and  at  last,  borne  down  by  a 
weight  of  anxiety  and  wearied  with  his  fruitless  wan- 
derings, La  Salle  fell  dangerously  ill;  but  his  sturdy 
frame  and  indomitable  spirit  soon  overcame  this  weak- 
ness, and  he  prepared  again  not  only  to  find  the  Missis- 
sippi, but  to  ascend  ifc  to  the  Illinois  and  thence  to 
Canada,  where  he  intended  to  get  vessels  and  provis- 
ions for  the  relief  of  his  people.  At  the  end  of  April 
his  party  of  twenty  volunteers,  bearing  their  light 
packs  of  clothing  and  ammunition,  issued  from  the 
gate  of  the  little  stockaded  fort,  quietly  and  reso- 
lutely, to  undertake  another  of  those  journeys  which 
had  so  often  proved  perilous  and  unavailing.  As 
usual,  a  remnant  of  their  number  returned  to  tell  the 
story  cf  another  failure;  some  having  deserted  and 
others  perished. 

These  continual  misfortunes  were  naturally  dis- 
heartening, and  yet  the  chief  still  planned  to  accom- 
plish his  purpose.  Another  expedition  was  discussed; 
preparations  were  begun;  and  as  it  was  decided  to 
wait  till  the  end  of  the  hot  weather  before  undertak- 
ing it,  the  men  were  put  to  work  makiug  clothing 
out  of  sails,  and  hewing  timber  for  future  use,  for 
work  was  always  La  Salle's  antidote  for  discontent. 

In  the  meantime  Christmas  approached,  and  the 
isolated  band  far  away  in  the  wilderness  assembled 
in  the  rough  chapel  to  celebrate  the  mass.  On 
Twelfth  Night  they  again  came  together  after  the 
usual  custom,  to  perform  the  quaint  old  ceremony  of 
The  King  Drinks;  but  when  they  lifted  the  cups 
their  lips  were  moistened,  not  with  the  merry  wine 
which  their  countrymen  were  sipping  in  France,  but 
with  the  simple  nectar  of  the  New  World's  springs. 

The  following  day,  the  seventh  of  January,  those 


140  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

chosen  to  accompany  La  Salle  on  his  last  journey, 
said  farewell  to  the  forlorn  little  colony  left  behind, 
once  more  encouraged  by  the  words  and  example  of 
their  leader.  Much  the  same  direction  that  had 
been  taken  before  was  followed  by  this  latter  party — 
that  is,  toward  the  northeast.  On  the  fourteenth, 
while  crossing  a  prairie,  herds  of  buffaloes  were  seen; 
some  of  them  running  as  if  pursued  by  Indians, 
while  others,  beginning  to  catch  the  infection,  were 
moving  in  frightened  groups  toward  the  travelers. 
Soon  a  hunter  appeared,  and  La  Salle,  having  ordered 
one  of  the  pack-horses  to  be  unloaded,  sent  one  of 
his  men  to  pursue  the  red-skin,  who,  finding  himself 
captured,  concluded  he  was  a  lost  man.  He  was 
somewhat  surprised,  however,  to  find  himself  kindly 
treated — which  but  for  La  Salle's  wise  interposition 
would  not  have  been  the  case — and  upon  being 
released  soon  afterward  walked  cautiously  away  till 
well  out  of  range,  when  he  began  running  for  dear 
life.  Soon  after  this  a  band  of  Indians  was  seen 
advancing,  but  La  Salle  had  his  men  continue  the 
march  until  within  hailing  distance,  when  a  halt  was 
called.  At  this  the  natives  halted  also,  while  La  Salle, 
laying  down  his  gun,  walked  toward  the  chief,  sig- 
naling him  to  come  forward.  A  sort  of  peace  was 
made,  presents  were  distributed,  and  the  two  parties 
separated,  La  Salle  and  his  men  pushing  on  over  the 
still  familiar  route,  and  occasionally  meeting  Indians 
with  whom  peace  was  established. 

On  the  eleventh  of  March  they  came  to  a  place 
near  which  La  Salle  in  a  previous  journey  had  hidden 
some  corn  and  beans,  and  as  provisions  were  scarce 
Duhaut,  Heins,  Liotot  the  surgeon,  Nika  his  Mohe- 
gan  hunter,  and  Saget  his  footman  were  sent  with  a 


JDEATH   OF  LA   SALLE.  141 

party  of  Indians  to  get  the  stores.  They  were  found 
rotted,  but  when  returning  Nika  shot  two  bullocks, 
and  Saget  was  sent  back  to  inform  his  master. 

Moranguet,  La  Salle's  nephew,  and  De  Marie  were 
sent  with  horses  to  bring  back  the  meat  for  drying; 
but  when  they  reached  the  hunting  party  they  found 
that  the  meat  had  already  been  smoked,  although  it 
was  not  ready;  while  Duhaut  and  his  companions 
had,  according  to  custom,  laid  aside  the  marrow- 
bones and  a  few  other  parts  to  roast.  At  this  the 
quick-tempered  Moranguet  fell  into  a  rage,  menacing 
Duhaut  and  the  others,  and  at  the  same  time  taking 
possession  of  all  of  the  meat.  This  impassioned 
behavior  roused  like  a  fire-brand  the  smoldering 
hatred  of  the  men,  who  already  had  causes  of  offense 
against  the  nephew  of  their  chief. 

In  an  instant  a  thousand  real  and  imaginary  griev- 
ances were  recalled.  In  the  first  place,  Duhaut  and 
Liotot  had  invested  large  sums  of  money  in  an  enter- 
prise which  seemed  destined  to  fail,  and  in  follow- 
ing which  they  had  met  only  privations  and  losses; 
their  leader,  habitually  cold  and  reserved,  had  uncon- 
sciously done  much  to  help  on  the  general  disaffec- 
tion, while  Liotot — whose  brother  had  been  sent  back 
alone  by  La  Salle  during  one  of  the  marches,  and  had 
been  massacred  by  Indians  on  the  way — had  a  per- 
sonal sorrow  to  avenge.  They  had  moreover  a 
grudge  against  Moranguet  and  were  determined  to 
kill  him. 

Taking  the  pilot  Tessier,  Hems  the  buccaneer,  and 
L'Archeveque  into  their  confidence,  they  went  aside 
to  deliberate  upon  their  murderous  purpose;  and  hav- 
ing determined  to  put  Nika  and  Saget  out  of  the 
way  because  they  were  faithful  to  La  Salle,  they 


142  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

waited,  after  the  manner  of  their  kind,  for  the  dark- 
ness. 

The  evening  meal  was  eaten  in  silence,  each  man 
busy  with  his  own  thoughts,  and  when  it  was  finished 
the  watches  were  arranged.  Moranguet  was  to  keep 
the  first,  Saget  the  second,  and  Nika  the  third. 

Taking  his  post,  gun  in  hand,  Moranguet  guarded 
the  apparently  sleeping  figures  of  his  companions 
until  his  time  was  up;  then  calling  to  Saget  he 
wrapped  himself  in  his  blanket  and  lay  down  to  rest. 

The  end  of  the  third  watch  was  the  signal  for  the 
assassins  to  begin  their  work.  Duhaut,  Heins, 
Tessier,  and  L/Archeveque  stood  guard  while  the 
surgeon  with  sure  aim  struck  the  death-blow.  Nika 
and  Saget  did  not  stir,  but  Moranguet  made  a  convul- 
sive effort  to  sit  up,  which  was  quickly  prevented  by 
a  second  stroke.  "  This  slaughter,"  says  Joutel, 
"  had  yet  satisfied  but  one  part  of  the  revenge  of 
those  murderers.  To  finish  it  and  secure  themselves 
it  was  requisite  to  destroy  the  commander-in-chief. " 
Their  unhappy  victim  was  already  planning  to  meet 
his  murderers;  for  becoming  uneasy  at  the  delay  of 
Moranguet,  and  fearing  the  party  might  have  fallen 
into  the  hands  of  the  Indians,  he  determined  to  go  in 
search  of  them.  He  also,  it  is  said,  had  forebodings 
of  another  kind,  and  asked  his  men  if  Duhaut,  Liotot, 
and  Heins  had  not  betrayed  some  signs  of  discontent. 
Receiving  no  definite  answer,  he  started  out  accom- 
panied by  Father  Douay,  leaving  Joutel  in  charge  of 
the  camp. 

On  the  way  he  talked  to  the  priest  of  God's  mercy 
in  having  protected  him  from  the  countless  dangers 
with  which  he  had  been  encompassed  during  his 
twenty  years  of  travel  in  America;  but  his  manner 


DEATH   OF  LA    SALLE.  143 

suddenly  changing,  he  became  so  overwhelmed  with 
sadness  that  his  companion  declares  he  did  not  know 
him. 

As  they  advanced  toward  the  river,  on  whose 
farther  shore  the  murderers  had  their  camp,  La 
Salle,  noticing  two  eagles  circling  in  the  air  over- 
head, discharged  his  gun  at  them.  The  shot  warned 
the  conspirators.  Duhaut  and  1/Archeveque  went 
up  the  river,  crossing  over  without  being  seen. 
Duhaut  then  dropped  into  the  long  grass,  while  his 
servant  remained  in  sight,  and  La  Salle  noticing  him 
asked  where  Moranguet  was.  L'Archeveque  replied  in 
a  broken  voice  that  he  was  along  the  river,  and  at 
the  same  instant,  as  La  Salle  turned  to  follow  the 
direction,  Duhaut  raised  and  fired.  The  bullet 
reached  its  mark  and  La  Salle  fell,  pierced  through 
the  brain. 

Father  Douay,  who  was  standing  beside  him, 
tremblingly  expected  the  same  fate;  but  Duhaut 
reassured  him,  telling  him  that  it  was  despair  that 
had  driven  him  to  the  deed. 

The  murderers  now  gathered  about  their  victim, 
while  Liotot,  remembering  the  death  of  his  brother, 
cried  out  in  scorn,  "  There  thou  liest,  great  Basha! 
There  thou  liest!"  Then  dragging  the  corpse  into 
the  bushes  they  left  it  a  prey  to  the  beasts. 

Duhaut  and  his  confederates  now  returned  to  camp, 
where  they  were  soon  the  masters,  the  terror  of  their 
presence  causing  the  most  abject  submission.  Joutel, 
meanwhile,  had  gone  off  to  a  neighboring  hill  to 
watch  some  horses  grazing  in  the  bottom,  and  thither 
L'Archeveque,  who  had  a  "  kindness"  for  him,  went 
to  warn  him.  The  news  was  a  great  blow  to  this 
officer,  and  he  had  besides  something  to  fear  on  his 


(144) 


DEATH   OF   LA   SALLE.  145 

own  account.  There  was,  however,  no  alternative, 
and  trusting  to  a  kind  Providence  he  went  back  to 
camp,  where  he  was  greeted  by  Duhaut's  menacing 
remark,  "  Every  man  ought  to  command  in  his  turn/' 

Safety  demanded  silence,  while  those  who  would 
have  brought  the  guilty  ones  to  justice  were 
restrained  by  the  priest  Cavelier,  who  reminded  them 
that  vengeance  belonged  to  God. 

With  the  death  of  the  leader,  whom  Douay  called 
their  guardian  angel,  everything  was  thrown  into 
confusion.  The  new  commander  took  possession  of 
all  the  stores  and  the  men  dared  offer  no  resistance. 
There  came  a  time,  however,  when  their  villainy  was 
avenged;  and  strangely  enough  this  was  brought 
about  by  one  of  their  number,  the  buccaneer  Heins. 
While  he  seems  to  have  conspired  with  them  against 
Moranguet,  there  is  no  evidence  to  show  that  he  took 
a  part  in  the  murder  of  La  Salle,  who  had  always 
been  partial  to  him.  When,  therefore,  Duhaut  and 
Liotot  were  on  their  way  to  Canada,  Heins,  who 
refused  to  go  with  them  farther,  demanded  his  share 
of  the  goods.  Duhaut  and  Liotot  refused,  giving  as 
an  excuse  the  fact  that  they  were  entitled  to  them 
as  a  recompense  for  their  losses.  (i  So  you  will  not 
give  them  to  me ?  "  demanded  the  buccaneer.  "  No," 
replied  they.  Thereupon  he  drew  his  pistol  from 
his  belt  and  fired  at  Duhaut,  saying  as  he  did  so, 
"You  are  a  villain.  You  killed  my  master."  A 
Frenchman  who  was  then  with  Heins  mortally 
wounded  Liotot,  and  after  the  latter  had  made  a  con- 
fession of  his  crime,  the  same  man  stepped  forward 
and  discharged  a  blank  cartridge  against  his  head. 
In  a  moment  more  his  hair  had  caught  fire,  then  his 
clothing,  and  so,  consumed  by  the  flames,  he  perished. 
10 


146  EARLY    EXPLORERS. 

Joutel,  the  two  Caveliers,  Father  Douay,  and  a  few 
others  afterward  made  their  way  to  Fort  Saint  Louis 
on  the  Illinois,  where  they  waited  for  Tonty,  who  had 
gone  to  the  Iroquois  war,  and  from  whom  they  later 
received  money  to  return  to  France;  concealing  from 
him  for  certain  reasons  the  fact  of  La  Salle's  death, 
Tonty,  having  previously  heard  that  the  latter  was 
somewhere  on  the  Gulf  and  in  distress,  had  made  a 
difficult  journey  to  find  him,  with  the  hope  of  lend- 
ing him  succor;  but,  failing  in  the  attempt,  was 
obliged  to  return  again  to  his  post  on  the  Illinois. 
On  the  way  up  the  Mississippi  he  left  a  letter  with 
the  Quinipissa  tribe — since  become  friendly  to  the 
French — and  D'Ibberville,  passing  that  way  thirteen 
years  later,  found  the  message,  which  had  been  care- 
fully preserved  by  one  of  the  chiefs. 

As  to  the  little  Texan  colony  of  Saint  Louis,  which 
La  Salle  left  when  he  went  on  his  last  journey  in 
search  of  the  "fatal  river,"  the  only  record  that 
remains  of  it  is  in  the  Spanish  account  of  the  expedi- 
tion of  Don  Alonzo  de  Leon,  where  it  is  said  that  the 
Spaniards  upon  reaching  Bay  Saint  Bernard,  known  by 
the  French  as  Bay  Saint  Louis,  came  upon  a  ruined 
fort  where  the  dead  bodies  of  several  foreigners  were 
found,  who  had  evidently  been  massacred  by  the 
Indians.  Don  Alonzo  was  moved  to  compassion  at 
the  sight,  and  although  he  afterward  learned  from 
two  Frenchmen  who  had  been  with  La  Salle — 
L'Archeveque  was  one — the  motives  which  had  moved 
the  explorer  when  he  brought  his  people  there,  he 
still  manifested  the  greatest  concern  and  pity.  At 
the  same  time,  however,  he  informed  his  govern- 
ment of  the  affair,  that  its  Mexican  colonies  might 
be  protected  from  the  inroads  of  others,  which  this 


DEATH   O*    LA   SALLE. 


147 


daring    though     unsuccessful    venture    seemed     to 
presage. 

So  perished  the  plans  of  one  of  the  greatest  of 
explorers,  who  "belonged  not  to  the  age  of  the 
knight-errant  and  the  saint,  but  to  the  modern 
world  of  practical  study  and  practical  action/'  and 
to  whom  the  enterprising  spirit  of  a  nineteenth- 
century  civilization  looks  back  with  admiration  and 
praise. 


Building  of  roRT^'irif 


CHAPTER  IX. 

FATHER   LOUIS    HENNEPIN. 

HE  life  of  this  sturdy  Franciscan,  whose 
very  garb  has  so  often  been  the  means 
of  condemning  him,  possesses  no  small 
amount  of  attractiveness,  notwith- 
standing the  just  criticisms  that  have 
been  leveled  against  it  by  those  who 
have  made  it  a  study;  and  even  in  following  Henne- 
pin's accounts,  exasperating  as  they  are  by  the  doubts 
which  they  excite  of  the  author's  veracity,  it  is  still 
impossible  to  resist  the  clever  stretching  of  truth 
which  made  them  popular  above  those  of  his  fellow 
travelers,  not  only  in  France,  but  in  the  other  coun- 
tries of  Europe. 

With  La  Hontan  and  a  few  others  of  like  reputa- 
tion, he  is  condemned  to  "that  amiable  class  who 
seem  to  tell  truth  by  accident  and  fiction  by  inclina- 
tion ";  yet  for  want  of  something  better  we  are  left 
to  the  mercy  of  these  capricious  historians,  who  with 
all  their  fabrications  have  given  us  records  of  the 
highest  value. 

Moved  by  impulse  while  still  a  student,  Hennepin 
entered  the  order  of  Saint  Francis  that  he  might  pass 
the  remainder  of  his  days  "  in  a  life  of  austerity." 
This  step  was  evidently  a  mistake.  He  soon  became 
impatient  with  convent  monotony,  and  in  reading  of 
the  travels  of  his  brother  priests  his  craving  for 
adventure  asserted    itself.      He  was    permitted    to 

(148) 


FATHER  LOUTS  HENNEPIN.  149 

visit  the  Franciscan  churches  and  convents  of  Ger- 
many and  Italy,  which  in  a  measure  satisfied  him; 
but  returning  from  this  tour  he  found  his  inclina- 
tions thwarted  by  one  of  his  superiors  who  did  not 
approve  of  them,  and  who  sent  him  to  a  convent  in 
Hainault,  where  he  stayed  a  year  preaching. 

Anything  was  better  than  this,  and  at  the  end  of 
that  time  he  received  permission  to  go  to  Artois,  and 
from  there  was  sent  to  Calais,  where  he  artlessly  com- 
promised himself  by  confessing  that  he  "  often  hid 
behind  the  tavern  doors  while  the  sailors  were  talking 
over  their  cruises,"  declaring  that  he  could  have 
passed  whole  days  and  nights  without  eating  in  this 
agreeable  occupation,  because  by  this  means  he  was 
enabled  to  learn  something  new  about  the  manners 
and  mode  of  life  of  foreign  nations. 

By  these  stories  his  "old  inclination"  was  also 
aroused,  and  starting  out  again  he  wandered  about  as 
a  missionary  through  the  towns  of  Holland,  although 
the  country  was  then  shadowed  by  the  desperate  con- 
flicts of  the  Prince  of  Orange  and  Louis  XIV. 

At  Maestricht,  at  the  time  of  the  siege,  he  worked 
in  the  hospitals  among  the  wounded  for  eight  months, 
and,  catching  a  zeal  from  his  labors  there,  was  next 
ministering  to  the  soldiers  on  the  bloody  field  of 
Seneff,  where  his  unflinching  charity,  though  in  a 
measure  vaunted  by  himself,  was  none  the  less 
admirable. 

From  war-scourged  Holland  he  was  recalled  to 
Rochelle,  having  been  elected  by  his  superiors  to 
make  one  of  the  quintette  of  missionaries  to  be  sent 
to  Canada  at  the  request  of  Frontenac.  This  oppor- 
tunity was  gratifying  to  the  restless  priest,  and  he 
hastened  back  to  France  to  prepare  for  the  vovage. 


150  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

La  Salle,  with  his  grant  of  Fort  Frontenac  and  new 
patent  of  nobility,  and  Francis  de  Laval,  soon  to 
become  Vicar  Apostolic  of  New  France,  were  two  of 
his  fellow  passengers,  whom  he  variously  impressed 
on  the  way  to  Canada.  He  says  that  De  Laval  upon 
their  arrival  at  Quebec  commissioned  him  to  preach 
the  Advent  and  Lenten  sermons  to  the  nuns  of  the 
Hotel  Dieu;  but  curious  in  the  meantime  to  see  the 
country  about  him,  he  traveled  to  the  neighboring 
towns  with  his  portable  chapel  service  and  snow-shoes 
strapped  to  his  back,  sturdily  enduring  hunger  and 
fatigue,  and,  worse  still,  the  frosts  which  "  often 
penetrated  to  his  very  bones." 

From  Quebec  he  was  sent  with  Father  Buisset  to 
Fort  Frontenac  to  instruct  the  Indians  there,  and 
while  laboring  in  the  new  field  still  roamed  about  in 
every  direction,  visiting  the  Five  Nations,  and  even 
going  as  far  as  Albany,  where  the  Dutch  invited  him 
to  make  his  home.  * 

At  the  end  of  two  years  La  Salle  had  returned  from 
France  with  permission  to  carry  on  his  discoveries, 
and  Hennepin,  hearing  of  his  arrival,  hurried  down 
to  Quebec,  where  he  hoped  to  find  messages  giving 
him  permission  to  join  in  the  enterprise.  To  his 
delight  La  Salle  brought  a  favorable  letter  from 
Father  Le  Fevre,  his  Provincial,  and  after  going  into 
retreat  for  a  time,  he  went  back  to  Fort  Frontenac, 
where  with  La  Motte  and  a  crew  of  sixteen  he  was 
sent  forward  to  Niagara.  Then  followed  the  build- 
ing of  the  fort  there;  the  negotiations  with  the 
Senecas;  the  triumphant  sail  of  the  "  Griffin,"  and 
finally  the  establishment  of  Fort  Creve-coeur. 

From  here  La  Salle  sent  the  restless  Eecollet  on  to 
the  Mississippi,   before  making  his  brave  journey 


FATHER  LOUIS  HENSTEPItf.  151 

back  to  Canada  for  the  relief  of  the  men  who  deserted 
him.  Hennepin  was  reluctant  in  accepting  this 
commission,  not  probably  for  want  of  courage,  for 
he  more  than  once  proved  that  he  was  not  lacking  in 
that  quality,  but  perhaps  because  the  journey  would 
be  a  tedious  one,  and  he  was  at  the  time  suffer- 
ing from  an  abscess  in  the  mouth.  He  offered  to 
exchange  places  with  Father  Membr6,  who  was  dis- 
gusted with  the  Illinois,  and  who  came  down  to  Fort 
Creve-coeur  to  ponr  ljis  trials  into  the  ears  of  his 
brother  missionaries.  "  This  set  the  Father  thinking," 
says  Hennepin,  "  and  he  preferred  to  remain  with 
the  Illinois,  of  whom  he  had  some  knowledge,  rather 
than  expose  himself  to  go  among  unknown  nations." 

There  was  then  no  escape,  for  La  Salle,  always  it 
seems  harboring  a  little  feeling  of  antagonism  against 
the  self-assertive  priest,  threatened  to  write  to  Hen- 
nepin's superiors  in  France  if  he  refused  to  obey  his 
wish;  while  the  venerable  Father  Eibourde,  himself 
one  of  the  bravest  of  the  band  of  missionaries,  encour- 
aged his  younger  brother  with  priestly  consolation. 
On  the  twenty-ninth  of  February,  1680,  La  Salle  and 
the  men  from  the  fort  came  down  to  the  river  to  bid 
Hennepin  and  his  companions  farewell.  By  the 
water's  edge  lay  moored  the  birch  canoe  which  was  to 
carry  them  through  unknown  dangers;  its  crannies 
filled  with  hatchets  and  beads,  as  passports  to  the 
strange  tribes  of  the  Upper  Mississippi. 

Hennepin  embraced  all  the  men  in  turn,  receiving 
Father  Ribourde's  blessing  and  an  encouraging  word 
from  La  Salle,  whom  at  the  last  he  accuses  of  rashly 
exposing  his  life;  then,  with  a  stroke  of  the  paddles 
the  canoe  was  started  down  the  stream  and  its  occu- 
pants lost  to  sight. 


152  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

In  the  evening  a  party  of  Illinois,  returning  to  their 
village  with  the  spoils  of  the  hunt,  startled  the  priest 
and  his  companions  and  almost  succeeded  in  influ- 
encing Accault  and  Du  Gay  to  abandon  their  jour- 
ney, but  the  men  knew  if  they  did  this  the  men  at 
the  fort  would  see  them,  and  they  decided  to  keep  on 
their  way.  Near  the  mouth  of  the  river  they  came 
to  a  camp  of  the  Tamaroa  and  were  invited  to  their 
village  on  the  Mississippi.  Hennepin,  however,  pre- 
vailed upon  the  men,  who  intended  to  do  some  trad- 
ing, to  wait  until  they  reached  the  Upper  Kiver,  and 
so  prevented  a  delay.  The  keen-eyed  Indians  had 
noticed  in  the  meantime  that  the  white  men's  canoe 
was  stored  with  arms  for  their  enemies,  and  were 
determined  to  get  possession  of  them.  They  accord- 
ingly started  out  in  pursuit;  but  their  heavy  wooden 
boats  were  no  match  for  the  canoe  and  they  were 
soon  far  behind.  Resorting  to  another  means,  they 
sent  a  party  of  young  warriors  along  the  shore  to 
intercept  the  white  men  at  a  narrow  point.  The 
pursued  saw  their  camp-fire  at  night,  and,  warned  by 
it,  hurried  to  an  island  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  leaving  their  dog  in  the  canoe  as  sentinel, 
while  they,  expecting  to  be  followed,  silently  waited 
for  the  signal  to  embark.  Their  fears  were  ground- 
less. The  Indians  failing  to  overtake  them  returned, 
leaving  them  to  continue  their  journey  to  the  Missis- 
sippi, where  they  were  detained  by  floating  ice  until 
the  twelfth  of  March. 

Here  the  speculations  regarding  Hennepin's  move- 
ments begin.  In  his  first  account,  published  in  1683, 
he  describes  the  journey  northward,  and  his  capture 
by  the  Sioux,  making  no  reference  to  a  descent  of 
the  river,  and  again  in  the  journal  published  fourteen 


FATHER  LOUIS  HENNEPIN.  153 

years  later  he  declares  that  he  descended  the  Missis- 
sippi to  the  Gulf;  although  he  concealed  the  fact,  he 
says,  in  order  that  La  Salle,  "who  wished  to  keep  all 
the  glory  and  all  the  knowledge  of  it  to  himself/' 
might  not  be  offended!  This  remarkable  voyage, 
according  to  a  coincidence  of  dates  in  the  two 
accounts,  was  made  in  forty-three  days;  but  as  La 
Salle  cautiously  remarks:  "It  is  necessary  to  know 
him  somewhat "  to  tell  how  much  credence  should 
be  given  to  these  declarations.  It  is  generally 
believed  that  the  earlier  work  is  the  more  reliable — that 
it  is  even  accurate — and  therefore  the  experiences  of 
the  eccentric  priest  on  the  Upper  Mississippi  may  be 
accepted  with  a  good  share  of  faith.  Taking  him  at 
his  word  then,  he  and  his  companions  passed  in  their 
upward  course  the  rivers  emptying  into  the  main 
stream  from  the  east  and  west,  coming  at  last  to 
the  falls  which  he  named  in  honor  of  Saint  Anthony 
of  Padua. 

The  journey  was  not  altogether  one  of  privations. 
There  was  an  abundance  of  game,  deer,  buffalo,  bear, 
and  wild  turkey,  on  which  they  had  a  continual 
feast;  making  amends. for  their  Lenten  indulgence 
by  saying  prayers  three  times  a  day,  their  chief  peti- 
tion at  these  times  being  that  they  might  not  be  sur- 
prised by  the  natives  at  night,  for  with  all  their 
courage  they  valued  their  scalps  as  highly  as  their 
less  venturesome  brothers.  This  petition  was  granted 
soon  after  their  midday  devotions  on  the  eleventh  of 
April.  A  war-party  of  a  hundred  and  twenty  Sioux 
on  their  way  to  the  lower  tribes  suddenly  came  upon 
them.  In  an  instant  their  arrows  were  whirring 
around  them  and  their  canoes  had  hemmed  them  in; 
but  the   old   warriors  noticing   the   calumet  which 


fll 


~  f*$«k 


\W^ 


\NS 


HENNEPIN  AT  THE  FALLS  OF  SAINT  ANTHONY. 
(154) 


FATHER    LOUIS   HENNEPIN".  155 

Hennepin  held,  kept  the  young  men  from  violence. 
The  Indians  then  attempted  to  terrify  the  group  on 
the  shore;  some  of  them  leaping  into  the  water  and 
others  darting  up  in  their  canoes,  accompanying  their 
maneuvers  with  piercing  yells.  All  this  had  the 
desired  effect.  Hennepin  hastened  to  give  them 
the  all-powerful  "tabac,"  and  they  were  partially 
appeased.  Hearing  them  repeat  the  words  Miam- 
iha,  Miamiha,  and  inferring  from  this  that  they 
spoke  of  the  Miamis,  whom  with  the  Illinois  they 
were  about  to  attack,  he  took  up  a  stick  and  mark- 
ing with  it  on  the  sand  attempted  to  explain  that 
the  Miamis  were  no  longer  in  their  villages,  but  had 
fled  beyond  the  Mississippi;  whereupon  four  old  men 
placed  their  hands  on  his  head  and  began  to  wail. 
This  demonstration  somewhat  disturbed  Hennepin, 
the  more  so  as  the  Indians  refused  to  smoke  his 
peace-pipe.  With  quick  thought,  he  drew  forth  a 
tattered  handkerchief  and  made  a  sign  as  if  to  wipe 
away  their  tears.  The  stolid  faces  showed  no  evi- 
dence of  pleasure.  Soon,  with  "  yells  capable  of 
striking  the  most  resolute  with  terror,"  they  crossed 
the  river,  obliging  Hennepin  and  his  companions  to 
go  with  them.  They  then  assembled  in  council, 
while  the  unconscious  objects  of  their  discussion, 
withdrawn  a  short  distance  from  the  camp,  were 
making  their  fire  for  supper.  In  the  midst  of  these 
preparations  two  chiefs  approached  to  inform  them 
by  signs  that  the  warriors  had  decided  to  tomahawk 
them;  and  Hennepin,  duly  impressed  by  the  infor- 
mation, again  hastened  to  appease  the  would-be 
murderers,  by  throwing  into  their  midst  a  present  of 
knives,  hatchets,  and  tobacco,  and  at  the  same  time 
resorting  to   diplomacy,  took   one  of  the  hatchets, 


156  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

bowed  his  head  before  the  astonished  Indians  and  by 
signs  gave  them  to  understand  that  they  might  then, 
if  they  wished,  carry  out  their  purpose. 

This  pleased  his  audience,  and  although  the  peace- 
pipe  was  still  refused,  they  invited  him  and  his  com- 
panions to  share  their  feast  of  beaver  with  them. 
At  night,  anticipating  trouble,  Accault  and  Du  Gay 
slept  on  their  arms;  but  Hennepin  affirms  that  he 
took  no  precaution,  having  determined  to  give  him- 
self up  without  resistance.  He  bore  his  part  in  keep- 
ing guard,  however,  that  the  Indians  might  not 
surprise  them  while  asleep. 

The  night  at  last  wore  away  without  any  disturb- 
ance, and  in  the  morning  their  fears  were  dispelled. 
Narrhetoba,  one  of  the  warriors,  painted  from  head 
to  foot,  came  to  them  and  asked  for  the  calumet,  and 
returning  to  his  camp  made  all  the  Indians  smoke; 
after  which  he  told  the  white  men  they  must  return 
with  them  to  his  country. 

Hennepin  was  now  greatly  perplexed  in  performing 
his  devotions,  for  the  Indians,  watching  him  as  he 
prayed,  muttered,  with  dark  faces,  "  Ouackanche  " — 
meaning  that  the  book  out  of  which  he  read  was  a 
spirit.  Du  Gay  and  Accault,  fearing  for  their  lives, 
begged  the  priest  to  go  apart  to  pray;  "but,"  says 
Hennepin,  "the  morel  concealed  myself,  the  more 
I  had  the  Indians  at  my  heels."  Eesorting  to  another 
method,  he  chanted  his  prayers  aloud  with  the  book 
opened  on  his  knee,  while  the  canoes  were  in  motion, 
and  the  Indians,  thinking  the  book  made  him  sing  to 
please  them,  no  longer  disturbed  him. 

Another  danger  threatened  them  in  the  meantime; 
for  Aquipaguetin,  a  chief  whose  son  had  been  killed 
by   the    Miamis,    was  angry  with    the    white    men 


FATHER  LOUIS  HENNEPIN.  157 

because  they  had  prevented  him  by  their  information 
from  taking  his  revenge.  He  attempted  to  excite 
the  other  chiefs  against  them  by  wailing  his  grief 
every  night;  and  Hennepin  attributes  the  escape  from 
this  danger  to  the  fact  that  the  Indians  wished  to 
keep  the  good-will  of  the  French,  who  could  furnish 
them  with  "iron  that  has  understanding/''  meaning 
guns  and  ammunition.  The  priest  then  complains  of 
the  harsh  treatment  to  which  he  and  his  companions 
were  subjected,  and  says  that  there  was  no  oppor- 
tunity to  go  up  or  down  the  river  to  explore,  as  the 
Indians  kept  a  vigilant  watch — thus  denying  his  later 
assertion  that  he  descended  the  river  to  the  Gulf. 

Having  finally  reached  the  end  of  their  journey  by 
water,  the  party  met  to  decide  upon  what  should  be 
done  with  the  Frenchmen,  and  at  last  they  were  dis- 
tributed among  the  three  families  of  the  tribe  who 
had  lost  children  in  battle.  This  done,  their  goods 
were  appropriated  and  their  canoe  destroyed  to  pre- 
vent their  return. 

When  within  a  short  distance  of  the  village  the 
Frenchmen  saw  to  their  horror  bunches  of  straw 
hanging  to  the  posts  of  the  cabins;  and  taking  this 
as  a  sign  that  they  were  to  perish  at  the  stake,  were 
filled  with  apprehension.  Besides  they  noticed  that 
the  Indians,  having  painted  Du  Gay's  face  and 
fastened  a  tuft  of  white  feathers  in  his  hair,  made 
him  sing  and  shake  a  gourd  filled  with  pebbles;  but 
they  soon  found  these  fears  to  be  groundless,  for  they 
were  feasted  and  given  the  calumet  to  smoke. 

Stimulated  at  last  by  hunger,  Hennepin  undertook 
to  master  the  language  of  his  adopted  people;  learn- 
ing first  their  word  "Taketchiabihen,"  or  "What do 
you  call  that,"  and,  with  the  help  of  the  children, 


158  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

gradually  acquiring  the  names  of  the  things  he  saw. 
He  also  won  their  good-will  by  attempting  to  cure  them 
with  a  little  bundle  of  medicines  which  he  carried  in 
his  sleeve. 

In  the  early  part  of  July  the  Sioux  went  south- 
ward on  their  annual  hunting  excursion,  and  at  the 
same  time  Hennepin  and  Du  Gay,  through  the  influ- 
ence of  a  friendly  chief,  were  allowed  to  descend  to 
the  Wisconsin,  where  they  expected  to  find  traders 
and  a  supply  of  ammunition — Du  Gay  and  Accault 
probably  intending  to  use  it  to  trade  with  the  Indians 
for  furs.  On  the  way  down  they  were  overtaken  by 
the  hunters,  and  Aquipaguetin,  who  by  an  inexplica- 
ble turn  of  affairs  had  assumed  the  protection  of 
Hennepin,  came  up  to  the  priest  and  asked  him  if  he 
had  found  the  Frenchmen  who  were  to  bring  the  sup- 
plies. Upon  receiving  an  unsatisfactory  answer,  the 
chief  started  on  himself  to  the  rendezvous,  intending 
to  seize  what  he  could;  but  finding  no  sign  of  the 
goods  or  the  white  men  he  returned,  thoroughly  out 
of  humor  with  his  adopted  son,  and  vexed  that  he 
had  made  the  trip  in  vain. 

Soon  after  this  the  bunting-camp  was  thrown  into 
a  state  of  excitement  by  a  report  of  the  old  men,  who 
as  usual  had  been  stationed  on  the  hill-tops  to  keep 
the  watch.  They  had  seen  two  warriors  in  the 
distance,  they  said,  which  immediately  started  a 
pursuit. 

Only  two  women  of  a  neighboring  band  of  Sioux, 
who  had  strayed  from  their  party,  were  overtaken,  but 
they  said  that  their  hunters  had  met  five  "spirits," 
meaning  Europeans,  near  Lake  Superior,  who, 
knowing  that  there  were  white  men  with  this  tribe, 
had  expressed  their  desire  to  visit  them. 


FATHER   LOUIS   HENNEPIN.  159 

On  the  return  of  the  party  to  their  northern  home 
these  five  "'spirits"  were  met,  and  found  to  be  Du 
Lhut  and  four  companions,  come  to  explore  the  Great 
River  and  to  make  peace  with  the  tribes  along  their 
route. 

They  accompanied  the  Sioux  back  to  their  villages, 
but  as  the  cold  months  were  coming,  and  the  necessity 
of  staying  longer  practically  at  an  end,  Du  Lhut  and 
Hennepin  came  together  to  discuss  returning  to 
Canada.  Having  arranged  their  plans,  Du  Lhut 
then  told  the  Indians  that  the  Frenchmen  must  leave 
them.  At  first  this  announcement  was  received  with 
some  opposition,  but  the  head  chief  finally  consented 
and  traced  himself  the  route  they  were  to  take. 

Everything  being  in  readiness,  the  eight  travelers 
bade  adieu  to  their  Sioux  friends  and  started  back  to 
civilization.  Descending  the  Mississippi  as  far  as 
the  Wisconsin,  they  followed  the  course  which  Joliet 
and  Marquette  had  taken  seven  years  before;  down 
the  Fox  River,  across  Lake  Winnebago,  and  thence 
to  Lake  Michigan,  continuing  through  the  chain  of 
lakes  to  the  settlements  in  Canada.  From  here 
Hennepin  went  to  France,  and  was  soon  afterward 
in  Amsterdam  with  his  manuscript  attempting  to 
find  a  publisher.  Failing  there  he  went  to  Utrecht, 
where  his  second  journal  appeared  in  1697.  His 
later  life  is  comparatively  unknown;  but  from  a 
letter  dated  at  Rome,  1701,  he  is  supposed  to  have 
been  at  the  convent  of  Aracceli,  and  attempting  to 
interest  certain  persons  in  the  mission  field  of  the 
Mississippi  country,  "  where  he  hoped  to  renew  his 
labors."  As  to  the  contradictory  accounts  which  he 
published  relating  to  his  explorations  and  those  of 
La  Salle,  there  has  been  much  comment,  not  only  by 


160 


EARLY   EXPLORERS. 


late  critics,  but  by  the  men  of  his  time.  Among  the 
latter  he  made  a  feeble  attempt  to  justify  himself, 
but  this  effort  was  far  from  convincing  his  accusers 
then,  and  has  even  less  weight  now.  From  the 
doubtful  pages  unanswered  questions  still  arise.  What 
was  Hennepin's  real  mission  to  the  Mississippi  ?  Why 
did  he  apparently  avoid  La  Salle?  And  did  he 
actually  precede  the  latter  in  the  exploration  of  the 
lower  river?  But  with  all  this,  the  careful  critic 
patting  the  journal  to  the  test  has  found  one  certain 
truth,  and  the  historian  with  impartial  applause  hails 
the  explorer  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  Father  Louis 
Hennepin. 


FATHER  HEKNLPIN  AT  HIS  DEVOTIONS.'  -  "^ 


CHAPTER  X. 

LA   1I0NTAN — CHARLEVOIX — CARVER. 

ITH  La  Salle  and  Hennepin,  the 
exploration  of  the  Mississippi  was 
practically  ended,  although  its 
farthest  fountains  were  still  undis- 
covered; yet,  to  these  travel  eft, 
who  had  followed  its  winding 
course  of  three  thousand  Liiles,  it 
had  not  lost  the  old  appellation  of 
"  the  unknown  river  of  the  West." 

One  of  those  to  follow  the  great  explorers  in  the 
valley  of  the  Great  River  was  the  Baron  La  Hontan, 
whose  accounts  in  his  own  day  were  looked  at 
iskance  generally,  nnd  loudly  disclaimed  by  the 
Jesuits,  but  which  have  at  last  received  a  partial 
justification  by  Jean  Nicollet  and  a  few  others. 

On  the  twenty-fourth  of  September,  1688,  when 
the  tragic  news  of  La  Salle's  death  had  reached  the 
upper  station,  La  Hon  tan  left  Michilimackinac  on 
his  way  to  the  Great  River,  following  the  route  of 
Joliet  and  Marquette,  witnessing  the  calumet  dance 
in  his  honor  at  the  mouth  of  the  Fox,  and  passing 
thence  to  the  upper  river,  from  which  he  made  the 
portage  to  the  Wisconsin. 

When  the  Mississippi  was  reached  he  went  north- 
ward, and,  as  he  says,  entered  a  river  coming  into 
Lake  Pepin  from  the  west,  which  he  speaks  of  as 
"  the  Long  River."   At  this  point  the  critics  challenge 

11  (161) 


162  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

him.  They  find  nothing  that  corresponds  to  his 
description,  and  yet  the  Baron,  unconscious  of  the 
frowning  tribunal,  leads  his  readers  up  the  mysteri- 
ous stream,  past  great  Indian  villages  and  through  a 
marvelous  country  in  the  months  of  November  and 
December,  when  all  other  rivers,  of  that  section  at 
least,  are  sealed  with  ice  before  Christmas. 

Nicollet,  however,  has  an  excuse  for  this.  He  finds 
a  similarity  between  La  Hontan's  "  Long  Kiver  "  and 
Cannon  River,  which,  he  says,  is  one  of  the  last  to 
freeze,  and  is  generally  a  late  resort  of  wild  fowl. 
He  finds,  moreover,  evidences  of  old  Indian  villages 
along  the  course  of  this  stream,  by  a  kind  of  grass 
that  always  grows  where  settlements  have  been,  but 
he  adds  that  he  "  does  not  pretend  to  justify  La  Hon- 
tan's  gross  exaggeration  of  the  length  of  the  river, 
and  of  the  numerous  population  on  its  banks." 

Nicollet's  view 'is  no  doubt  a  just  one.  La  Hontan 
knew  that  others  were  more  or  less  familiar  with  that 
part  of  the  Mississippi  which  he  described,  and  that  it 
would  not  be  long  before  his  relations  would  be  put 
to  the  test.  Perrot  had  been  all  through  the  region 
— that  is,  as  far  as  any  one  had  gone — and  knew  every 
part  of  it;  yet  the  discoverer  of  "the  Long  River" 
did  not  hesitate  to  publish,  with  elaborate  detail,  the 
account  of  his  voyage. 

The  geographers  of  Europe,  quick  to  make  addi- 
tions to  their  incomplete  maps  of  North  America, 
soon  gave  the  stream  a  prominent  place;  but  the 
French,  never  over-credulous,  did  not  accept  it  with- 
out question,  and  in  1716,  a  priest  of  Versailles  wrote 
to  De  L'Isle,  geographer  of  the  Academy  of  Sci- 
ences, u  Would  it  not  be  well  to  efface  that  great 
river  which  La  Hontan  says  he  discovered?    All  the 


LA   HONTAN — CHARLEVOIX— CARVER.  163 

Canadians,  and  even  the  Governor-general,  have  told 
me  that  this  river  is  unknown;"  while  Charlevoix 
makes  the  sweeping  assertion  that  "the  episode  of 
the  voyage  up  the  Long  River  is  as  fabulous  as  the 
Barrataria  of  Sancho  Panza." 

When  La  Hontan  re-enters  the  Mississippi,  his 
account  is  more  charitably  received.  In  his  descent 
of  the  river  he  made  a  partial  exploration  of  the  Mis- 
souri and  Saint  Peter,  which  has  placed  him  among 
the  men  who  first  pushed  beyond  known  boundaries, 
and  which  has  won  for  him  the  honor  of  being  the 
discoverer  of  those  two  great  tributaries. 

Charlevoix,  a  man  of  ability  and  honor,  was 
commissioned  by  the  French  government  to  visit  New 
France  in  17^1,  for  the  purpose  of  describing  its  con- 
dition and  possibilities.  Had  he  not  accepted  this 
commission,  La  Hontan  would  have  had  one  critic 
less,  and  Europe,  figuratively  on  tip-toe  with  curios- 
ity, would  have  been  deprived  of  one  of  the  truest 
pictures  of  the  affairs  of  her  sister  continent;  but 
Charlevoix  was  a  Jesuit,  and  an  observer  who  had 
already  spent  four  years  in  Canada,  and  he  did  not  let 
pass  an  opportunity  for  wider  travel. 

Reaching  Quebec  in  the  spring  of  1721,  he  began 
his  journey  westward,  writing  at  frequent  intervals 
to  his  friend  the  Countess  Lesdigueres,  who  has  in 
turn  bequeathed  the  letters  to  history.  On  his  way 
to  Three  Rivers  he  tells  her  that  he  set  out  from 
Pointe  aux  Trembles  "with  a  horse  blind  of  an  eye, 
which  he  afterward  exchanged  for  a  lame  one,  and 
then  again  for  one  that  was  broken-winded." 

Following  the  route  which  had  attracted  all  of  the 
early  travelers — up  the  Saint  Lawrence  and  through 
the  lakes — he  modified,  on  the  way,  many  of  their 


164  EARLY   EXPLORERS. 

wild  exaggerations  and  added  many  details  of  his 
own.  On  Lake  Superior  lie  learned  the  strange  tra- 
ditions of  the  Indians  in  regard  to  the  vast  inland  sea, 
which  they  believed  was  formed  by  Michabon,  the 
god  of  the  waters,  to  supply  them  with  beaver.  He 
found  pieces  of  copper  on  its  shores,  and  says  that  one  . 
of  the  priests  of  his  order,  belonging  to  the  mission  of 
Saint  Mary's,  had  found  large  quantities  of  it  in  so 
pure  a  state  that  he  was  able  to  make  ornaments  of 
it  for  the  mission  chapel. 

From  Lake  Michigan  he  entered  the  Saint  Joseph, 
crossing  to  the  Kankakee,  and  thence  down  to  the 
Mississippi,  where  the  light  birch-bark  canoes  were 
exchanged  for  heavier  boats;  but  the  men,  accustomed 
to  light  paddles,  made  awkward  work  of  rowing,  and 
Pere  Charlevoix,  in  his  hollowed-out  "walnut  tree/' 
found  it  perilous,  as  well  as  interesting,  to  descend 
the  Mississippi.  He  enjoyed  his  experiences,  how- 
ever, and  wrote  enthusiastic  descriptions  of  the  beau- 
ties of  the  scenery  and  the  pleasures  of  unconven- 
tional travel,  which,  he  said,  recalled  the  ancient 
Patriarchs,  who  lived  in  tents  and  had  no  fixed  place 
of  abode. 

During  his  journey  down  the  river,  Charlevoix 
made  frequent  excursions  on  the  tributary  streams 
and  into  the  adjacent  country,  and,  traveling  thus 
leisurely,  reached  in  December  the  straggling  huts  of 
New  Orleans,  which,  viewed  from  Versailles  by  the 
French  Monarch  and  his  extravagant  subjects, 
appeared  a  future  center  of  unlimited  wealth.  Char- 
levoix himself,  coming  upon  it  at  a  time  when 
enthusiasm  for  its  future  was  at  its  height,  believed 
that  this  city,  "  the  first  which  one  of  the  greatest 
rivers  of  the  world  has  seen  rise  upon  its  banks/' 


LA   HONTAN — CHARLEVOIX — CARVER.  165 

"the  wild  and  desert  place  still  covered  by  canes  and 
trees/'  would  one  day  be  an  opulent  city  and  the 
metropolis  of  a  great  and  rich  colony.  This,  how- 
ever, was  his  opinion  when  he  had  but  entered  the 
place.  After  looking  about  and  taking  a  careful 
account  of  its  position  he  wrote  in  quite  another 
strain.  He  could  not  see  the  obstacles  overcome  by 
science  after  the  marvelous  strides  of  a  century  and  a 
half,  nor  the  power  of  steam  upon  the  Great  Kiver, 
which  would  insure  the  prosperity  of  the  "  Crescent 
City."  From  here  he  sent  the  last  of  his  witty  let- 
ters to  the  Countess,  by  which  his  personal  experi- 
ences in  the  New  World  close.  Upon  his  return  to 
Europe  he  published  his  "  History  of  New  France/' 
which  is  valued  now  quite  as  much  as  when  little 
was  known  of  North  America,  while  its  author  will 
always  hold  an  important  place  in  the  scenes  which 
he  describes. 

After  Charlevoix,  Captain  Jonathan  Carver  u 
was  the  next  explorer  of  importance  in  the  Valley 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  the  variation  from  the  long  - 
line  of  Spanish  and  French  names  which  followed  in 
succession  from  the  early  discovery  of  the  river,  tells  at 
once  of  the  great  change  which  had  made  the  English 
masters  and  dissolved  the  power  of  New  France. 
Carver  himself  bore  arms  in  his  country's  cause, 
barely  escaping  the  massacre  of  Fort  William  Henry, 
and  winning  his  captaincy  by  the  same  spirit  which 
two  generations  before  had  given  the  governorship  of 
Connecticut  to  an  ancestor. 

When  peace  was  declared,  the  young  captain  deter- 
mined to  explore  the  newly  acquired  British  posses- 
sions, that  government  might  be  acquainted  with 
their  extent  and  condition.     He  also  had  in  mind 


166  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

the  discovery  of  a  northwest  passage  between  Hud- 
son's Bay  and  the  Pacific  Ocean;  and  with  these 
objects  in  view  left  Boston  in  June,  1766.  At  Macki- 
nac the  English  governor  of  the  fort  gave  him  a 
small  supply  of  goods  for  nse  among  the  Indians, 
promising  to  send  him  more  to  Saint  Anthony  Falls; 
and  with  this  equipment  he  started  with  his  men — 
one  a  French-Canadian  and  the  other  a  Mohawk. 
As  far  as  Prairie  dn  Chien  he  bad  the  company  of 
two  traders,  but  there  the  party  separated,  Carver 
going  on  up  the  river. 

On  the  tenth  day,  at  evening,  the  encampment  was 
made  and  the  boats  moored  near  the  shore.  As  soon  as 
it  was  dark,  Carver,  as  usual,  ordered  his  men  to  take 
their  rest,  while  he  sat  np  to  write  his  notes  by  the  light 
of  a  candle.  Abont  ten  o'clock,  stepping  out  of  his 
tent  to  see  what  the  weather  was,  he  saw  at  a  little  dis- 
tance something  that  had  the  appearance  of  a  herd 
of  beasts,  but,  unable  to  distinguish  them  in  the 
starlight,  he  stood  closely  watching  their  movements. 
Suddenly  one  of  their  number  raised  np  and  disclosed 
the  figure  of  a  man.  Carver,  recognizing  the  situa- 
tion, gave  the  alarm,  and  his  men,  having  snatched 
their  weapons,  started  in  the  direction  of  the  boat, 
toward  which  the  savages  were  hurrying.  "What 
do  yon  want?"  called  out  the  bold  Yankee,  where- 
upon the  Indians,  evidently  wanting  only  to  escape 
alive  from  such  an  awe-inspiring  white  chief,  fled 
precipitately  to  the  woods,  where  Carver  gave  up  the 
pursuit.  The  men  were  now  badly  frightened  and 
wanted  to  turn  back,  but  Carver,  knowing  the  most 
effectual  cure,  threatened  to  call  them  "old  women/' 
and  by  his  own  example  shamed  them. 

Below  Lake  Pepin  the  explorer  discovered  a  strange 


LA   HONTAST — CHARLEVOIX — CARVER.  167 

relic  of  the  past,  which  led  him — as  such  discoveries 
have  led  many  others — to  think  that  this  continent, 
whose  ancient  history  is  an  unsolved  mystery, 
was  once  the  home  of  civilized  nations.  He  found 
the  grass-grown  remains  of  a  carefully  constructed 
intrenchment,  protected  in  the  rear  by  the  river,  and 
bearing  the  imprint  of  centuries. 

From  here  he  went  to  Saint  Anthony  Falls  and 
then  on  as  far  as  the  Saint  Francis,  a  distance  which 
had  been  reached  only  by  Father  Hennepin  and  him- 
self. Then  paddling  up  the  Saint  Peter,  he  came  to 
a  north  branch  which  had  not  been  named,  and  in 
order  to  distinguish  it  he  called  it  "Carver"  River, 
by  which  name  it  is  still  known. 

By  the  seventh  of  December  he  reached  the  west- 
ern limit  of  his  travels.  Through  the  dishonesty  of 
the  men  intrusted  with  supplies  from  Mackinac,  it  was 
impossible  to  go  farther,  and  he  was  detained  for  the 
winter  at  the  Sioux  village  at  the  head  of  the  Saint 
Peter.  Here  he  learned  their  language  and  received 
the  honors  of  a  great  chief,  for,  by  a  service  which 
he  had  rendered  one  of  the  "river  bands,"  his  fame 
had  reached  the  farthest  lodges.  The  event  which 
had  won  him  this  distinction  took  place  during  his 
ascent  of  the  river.  He  was  stopping  a  day  or  two 
with  the  Indians  at  their  encampment  when  some 
hunters  of  the  band  announced  that  a  Avar-party  of 
the  Chippewas  was  approaching,  large  enough,  they 
said,  "to  swallow  them  all  up." 

The  Sioux,  terrified  by  this  news,  begged  their 
guest  to  lead  them  to  battle,  believing  in  the  superior 
powers  of  the  white  man;  but  Carver,  unwilling  to 
antagonize  the  Chippewas,  and  yet  wishing  to  retain 
the  good-will  of  the  Sioux,  knew  not  what  to  answer. 


LA  HOKTAN" — CHARLEVOIX— CARVER.  169 

In  this  extremity,  he  offered  to  act  as  mediator, 
although  the  Indians  doubted  his  success,  as  their 
peace-pipes  had  been  repeatedly  disregarded.  Carver, 
however,  started  toward  the  enemy,  as  the  brave 
Tonty  had  done  before  him,  and  so  completely  won 
over  the  chiefs  that  the  war-party  turned  back,  while 
the  delighted  Sioux  quickly  decamped  before  the 
enemy  had  time  to  repent  of  their  action. 

Early  in  the  spring  the  Indians  prepared  to  visit 
the  cave  below  the  present  city  of  Saint  Paul,  which 
they  called  the  dwelling  of  the  Great  Spirit,  where 
they  held  their  councils. 

On  the  way  down  the  river,  the  party  was  overtaken 
by  a  terrific  storm.  The  Indians,  terrified  and  imag- 
ining it  to  be  a  sign  of  the  wrath  of  the  Great  Spirit, 
rushed  into  the  woods;  but  Carver,  who  had  accom- 
panied them,  afraid  to  be  near  the  trees,  stood  out  in 
an  open  space,  while  the  savages  looked  on  with 
superstitious  admiration. 

Having  been  admitted  to  the  great  council  at  the 
cave,  and  honored  with  the  title  of  chief,  Carver 
made  use  of  this  incident  to  impress  the  minds  of  his 
hearers.  " You  may  remember,"  he  said,  "the  day 
when  we  were  encamped  at  Wadepaw  Minesoter,  the 
black  clouds,  the  wind,  the  fire,  the  stupendous  noise, 
the  horrible  cracks,  and  the  trembling  of  the  earth, 
which  then  alarmed  you  and  gave  you  reason  to  think 
your  gods  were  angry  with  you;  not  unlike  these  are 
the  warlike  implements  of  the  English  when  they 
are  fighting  the  battles  of  their  great  King." 

At  this  council  the  gift  of  land  was  supposed  to 
have  been  agreed  upon  which  made  Carver  and  his 
heirs  owners  of  a  large  tract  of  land  on  the  Upper  Mis- 
sissippi, and  over  which  there  has  since  been  much  liti- 


170  EARLY  EXPLORERS. 

gation;  but,  as  there  was  not  sufficient  proof  of  such 
a  grant  having  been  made;  as  Carver  himself  does  not 
mention  it  in  his  writings,  and  as  the  King  had  made 
a  proclamation  three  years  before  forbidding  private 
individuals  to  buy  or  accept  land  from  the  Indians, 
the  court  having  the  case  in  hand  settled  it  by  resolv- 
ing ' ( that  the  prayer  of  the  petitioners  be  not 
granted/'  The  cave  in  which  the  meeting  took  place 
is  now  known  as  "Carver's  Cave." 

Disappointed  in  not  finding  his  supplies  at  the 
Falls,  and  obliged  to  abandon  further  exploration, 
Carver  left  his  Sioux  friends  and  started  down  the 
river  for  Prairie  du  Chien.  On  the  way  he  was  surprised 
by  a  party  of  Chippewas,  and,  fearing  it  might  be 
the  same  which  had  attempted  to  plunder  him  some 
time  before,  he  was  inclined  to  avoid  them;  but  he 
knew  the  Indians  too  well  to  show  such  a  disposition, 
and  finally  crossed  the  river  to  their  camp.  A  few  of 
the  savages  came  down  to  the  shore  to  meet  him, 
extending  their  hands  in  welcome;  but  back  of  them 
stood  their  chief,  a  tall  fellow,  painted  and  tattooed, 
who  fiercely  watched  the  strangers.  Carver,  deter- 
mined not  to  betray  any  signs  of  awe,  approached 
this  august  personage  and  extended  his  hand.  The 
chief  withheld  his,  and,  scowling  down  upon  the 
white  men,  said  in  Chippewa,  "English  no  good." 
Carver  did  not  like  the  way  the  Indian  grasped  his 
tomahawk,  and  said  he  expected  the  laconic  sentence 
would  be  followed  by  a  blow;  but  drawing  his  pistol 
from  his  belt,  he  carelessly  played  with  it  as  he  passed 
the  chief,  and  in  token  of  his  fearlessness  resolved  to 
remain  with  the  Indians  that  night. 

Early  in  the  morning  he  continued  his  way  to 
Prairie  du  Chien,  and  having  attended  to  his  affairs 


LA  HONTAN" — CHARLEVOIX — CARVER.    171 

there,  re-ascended  the  river  with  the  intention  of 
reaching  Mackinac  by  way  of  Lake  Superior.  Enter- 
ing the  Chippewa  River,  he  crossed  to  a  branch  of 
the  Saint  Croix,  descended  it  to  the  fork,  and  thence 
up  another  branch  to  the  source.  From  here  the 
boats  were  launched  on  a  little  brook,  which,  strug- 
gling along,  was  gradually  increased  by  rivulets,  and 
at  last  developed  into  a  swift  stream,  and  on  they 
paddled  to  the  great  lake. 

From  Mackinac,  Carver  hurried  eastward,  reach- 
ing Boston  in  October,  1768,  from  whence  he  sailed 
for  England.  There  he  reported  to  the  Government, 
asking  for  reimbursements  and  the  privilege  of  dis- 
posing of  his  manuscripts.  The  last  petition  was 
granted,  but  the  explorer  was  afterward  requested  to 
deliver  up  all  of  his  papers.  This  obliged  him  to 
buy  back  his  manuscript  at  an  advance,  but  no  com- 
pensation was  made  him.  He  then  obtained  a  posi- 
tion of  clerk  in  a  lottery  office,  but  reverses  overtook 
him,  and  finally,  at  the  age  of  forty-eight,  he  died  of 
want  in  the  heart  of  the  great  metropolis. 

With  him  ends  the  long  line  of  the  early  explorers 
of  the  Great  River.  Each,  looking  upon  the  splen- 
did stream  and  the  valley  it  enriched,  had  prophe- 
sied; but  none  so  well  as  this  last,  who  said:  "There 
is  no  doubt  but  that,  at  some  future  period,  mighty 
kingdoms  will  emerge  from  these  wildernesses,  and 
stately  palaces  and  solemn  temples,  with  gilded  spires 
reaching  to  the  skies,  supplant  the  Indian  huts, 
whose  only  decorations  are  the  barbarous  trophies  of 
their  vanquished  enemies." 


EXPLORERS  OF  THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 


PART    SECOND. 


-:o: 


EXPLORATION 


OF   THE 


llpp^r  ptie0t#0tp;pt 


* 


:o: 


SUBJECTS: 
Chapter  Page 

L    EXPEDITIONS   OP  LIEUTENANT   PIKE....  175 
II.    THE  CASS  EXPEDITION 180 

III.  BELTRAMI  AND  THE   "JULIAN  SOURCE".  185 

IV.  SCHOOLCRAFT  AND  LAKE  ITASCA 197 

V.    INVESTIGATIONS    OP    NICOLLET 208 

VI.    EXPLOITS  OP  CHARLES  LANMAN 218 


(174) 


CHAPTER  1. 

EXPEDITIONS  OF  LIEUTENANT  PIKE. 

EBULON    MONTGOMERY   PIKE 

was  the  son  of  a  captain  in  the  Revo- 
lutionary army,  and  was  the  first 
of  the  more  recent  explorers  of  the 
Mississippi  and  the  country  border- 
#v.*  ing  upon  it.     He  was  born  January 

fifth,  1779,  at  Lambertville,  New  Jersey,  a  village 
near  the  Delaware  River,  but  received  his  education 
at  Easton,  Pennsylvania,  whither  the  family  had  pre- 
viously removed.  At  the  age  of  twenty  he  became 
an  ensign  in  his  father's  regiment,  and  in  1806  had 
attained  the  rank  of  captain. 

After  the  purchase  of  Louisiana  from  the  French 
in  1803,  General  Wilkinson  was  appointed  by  the 
United  States  Government  to  the  military  command 
of  the  Territory,  with  headquarters  at  Saint  Louis. 
This  immense  acquisition  embraced  all  the  country 
between  the  Mississippi  River  and  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains, and  from  the  Mexican  dominions  on  the  south 
to  Canada  on  the  north.  A  desire  was  soon  felt 
by  the  Government  and  people  to  learn  something 
of  the  new  region,  and  an  order  was  received  by 
the    general    commanding   to   detach   a  competent 

( 175) 


176      EXPLORATION   OE   THE   UPPER   MISSISSIPPI. 

officer  for  the  work  of  exploration.  Lieutenant  Pike 
was  selected  for  the  undertaking  and  ordered  to  pro- 
ceed up  the  Mississippi  to  its  Headwaters,  and,  if 
practicable,  trace  it  to  its  ultimate  source. 

Physically  and  mentally,  Pike  was  well  equipped 
for  the  work,  and  would  probably  have  succeeded  in 
his  attempt  to  reach  the  head  of  the  river  if  he  had  been 
better  advised,  before  starting,  of  the  difficulties  he 
would  have  to  encounter.  He  was  eager  for  the  work 
assigned  him,  and,  with  twenty  men  under  his  com- 
mand, left  Saint  Louis,  the  capital  of  the  newly- 
acquired  Territory,  August  ninth,  1805,  and  com- 
menced the  ascent  of  the  river.  He  labored  under 
great  disadvantages,  which  materially  affected  the 
results  of  his  expedition.  He  was  four  months  too  late 
in  the  season  to  reach  his  destination,  and  was  with- 
out an  aide,  or  even  a  scientific  observer.  He  knew 
nothing  of  the  climate  of  the  region  he  was  about  to 
visit,  and  neither  guide  nor  interpreter  had  been 
assigned  him  by  the  authorities.  That  he  accom- 
plished what  he  did  is  altogether  owing  to  his  energy, 
vigilance,  and  enterprise,  his  knowledge  of  hunting 
and  forest  life,  and  his  habits  of  mental  and  military 
discipline.  After  great  labor,  many  adventures,  and 
some  casualties,  he  reached  a  point  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  north  of  Saint  Anthony  Falls,  and  here 
winter  overtook  him.  The  absence  of  all  preparation 
against  the  intense  cold  resulted  in  much  suffering 
and  danger  to  life.  To  protect  himself  and  his  men, 
he  devoted  twelve  days  to  the  erection  of  a  block- 
house as  a  temporary  shelter,  and  after  a  short  rest 
for  recuperation,  determined  on  resuming  his  journey 
up  the  river,  which  was  covered  with  snow  to  a 
depth  of  several  feet.     Leaving  a  small  detachment 


12 


(177) 


178      EXPLORATION   OF  THE   UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

of  his  disabled  men  and  his  boats  in  charge  of  a  non- 
commissioned officer  at.  the  block-house,  he  set  forth 
on  roughly  constructed  snow-shoes,  with  small  hand- 
sledges,  and,  by  great  energy  and  perseverance, 
reached,  at  successive  periods,  Sandy  Lake,  Leech 
Lake,  and  ultimately  advanced  as  far  north  as  Upper 
Ked  Cedar  Lake,  now  known  as  Cass  Lake,  an  expan- 
sion of  the  Mississippi,  in  latitude  47°  42'  30".  The 
whole  region  was  covered  with  a  mantle  of  snow. 
Here  he  met  some  straggling  members  of  the  North- 
west Fur  Company,  of  Montreal,  who  welcomed  the 
explorer  to  their  winter  quarters,  and  extended  to 
the  party  the  usual  hospitality  to  travelers. 

Pike  explained  that  the  object  of  his  visit  was  to 
discover  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  was  in- 
formed by  the  fur  traders  that  the  extreme  Head  of 
the  river  was  in  Turtle  Lake,  in  confirmation  of  which 
they  produced  a  roughly-sketched  map  of  the  section. 
Believing  that  he  had  now  accomplished  the  object 
of  his  mission,  he  made  no  further  effort  in  that 
direction,  but  prepared  for  a  speedy  return  to  Saint 
Louis.  Nine  months  had  elapsed  since  leaving  its 
genial  climate  for  the  frozen  North,  during  which 
interval  he  and  his  party  of  sturdy  soldiers  had  under- 
gone much  suffering  from  the  rigor  of  the  long- 
continued  winter — intensified  by  the  absence  of  prep- 
aration in  the  shape  of  warm  clothing  and  a  proper 
supply  of  food. 

The  narrative  of  the  Pike  expedition  was  not  pub- 
lished until  1810,  in  which  Turtle  Lake  is  assumed  to 
be  the  Source  of  the  Great  Kiver,  which,  however, 
has  been  conclusively  disproved  by  more  recent 
explorers. 

In  1806-7,  Pike  was  again  despatched  by  the  Gov- 


EXPEDITIONS   OF   LIEUTENANT   PIKE.  179 

ernment  on  a  geographical  exploration  over  parts  oi 
the  immense  Territory  of  Louisiana,  in  the  course 
of  which  he  reached  the  front  range  of  the  Kocky 
Mountains,  and  discovered  what  is  known  as  Pike's 
Jeak,  14,336  feet  in  height  above  the  sea,  on  the 
summit  of  which  there  is  now  a  United  States  signal 
station.  The  headwaters  of  the  Rio  Grande  River 
were  also  reached.  He  was  here  taken  prisoner  by 
the  Spaniards  for  being  found  on  Spanish  territory, 
and  conveyed  to  Santa  Fe,  now  the  capital  of  New 
Mexico,  where  all  his  papers  were  seized;  but,  after 
trial,  he  was  released  and  ordered  to  leave  the  coun- 
try. He  reached  Nachitoches,  about  twenty-five 
miles  from  the  Texas  line,  July  first,  1807,  and 
received  the  thanks  of  the  Government  for  his  enter- 
prise and  successful  labors.  As  a  reward  he  was 
promoted  from  the  rank  of  major,  in  the  following 
year  to  that  of  lieutenant-colonel,  and  in  1812,  to 
that  of  assistant  quartermaster-general. 

In  1813,  Pike  was  appointed  to  the  command  of 
an  expedition  against  York,  Upper  Canada.  He 
reached  York  with  the  fleet  conveying  the  troops  for 
the  attack.  The  general,  with  the  main  body,  landed, 
and  the  enemy  falling  back  before  him,  he  captured 
the  main  redoubt  and  halted  his  men.  While  Gen- 
eral Pike  and  many  of  his  soldiers  were  resting  on 
their  arms,  preparatory  to  an  attack  on  the  next 
redoubt,  the  magazine  of  the  fort  exploded,  and, 
being  fatally  injured,  he  survived  but  a  few  hours. 
He  died  April  twenty-seventh,  1813,  and  bears  the 
reputation  of  a  brave  and  zealous  officer. 


CHAPTER  II. 

THE   CASS   EXPEDITION. 

FTER  an  interval  of  nearly  fifteen  years, 
the  enterprising  soldier  and  states- 
man, General  Cass,  Governor  of 
Michigan  Territory,  tendered  his 
services  to  the  Government  as  an 
explorer  in  the  little-known  region 
of  the  Great  Lakes  and  the  Head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi,  pre- 
viously visited  by  Pike. 

Lewis  Cass  was  born  in  Exeter,  New  Hampshire, 
October  ninth,  1782.  He  was  the  eldest  son  of  Jona- 
than Cass,  a  captain  in  the  Continental  Army  during 
the  War  of  the  Revolution.  On  the  conclusion  of 
peace  with  England,  he  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of 
major  and  assigned  to  General  Wayne's  command, 
then  in  the  territory  northwest  of  the  Ohio.  Lewis 
remained  with  the  family  in  Exeter  and  attended  the 
academy.  Major  Cass,  in  1799,  removed  his  family 
to  Wilmington,  Delaware,  in  which  town  Lewis  be- 
came a  successful  school-teacher. 

The  following  year  found  the  major  and  his  family 
on  their  way  to  the  West.  They  descended  the  Ohio 
from  Pittsburg  in  a  flat-boat,  and  traveled  on  foot  for 
many  miles.  They  reached  Marietta,  the  pioneer 
town  of  Southern  Ohio,  in  October,  1800,  and  near 
here  the  family  settled  upon  a  tract  of  land  granted 
Major  Cass  by  the  Government  in  consideration  of 


THE   CASS  EXPEDITION.  181 

his  military  service.  The  site  was  on  Muskingum 
River,  near  Zanesville.  Lewis,,  however,  remained  at 
Marietta  and  studied  law  in  the  office  of  Governor 
Meigs.  He  was  admitted  to  the  bar  in  1803,  and 
began  practice  in  Zanesville.  He  married  Elizabeth 
Spencer,  of  Virginia,  in  1806,  and  shortly  after 
became  a  member  of  the  Ohio  Legislature. 

The  supposed  treasonable  movements  of  Aaron  Burr 
were  at  this  period  a  source  of  uneasiness  to  the  Gov- 
ernment, and  Lewis  Cass,  being  on  the  committee  ap- 
pointed by  the  local  Legislature  to  inquire  into  Burr's 
proceedings,  framed  a  law  authorizing  the  authorities 
to  arrest  the  men  and  capture  the  material  provided 
for  their  expedition  down  the  Ohio.  He  also  drew  up 
an  official  communication  to  the  President,  express- 
ing the  views  of  the  Ohio  Legislature  on  the  subject 
of  Burr's  designs  and  movements.  President  Jeifer- 
son's  attention  was  attracted  to  this  able  document, 
and  he  appointed  the  author  marshal  of  the  State. 

On  the  breaking  out  of  the  second  war  with  England, 
in  1812,  Cass  joined  the  forces  at  Dayton  under  the 
command  of  General  Hull,  with  the  rank  of  colonel 
of  the  Third  Ohio  Volunteers,  proceeding  at  once  to 
Detroit.  When  the  army  crossed  the  Detroit  River 
into  Canada,  Colonel  Cass  was  in  command  of  the 
advance  guard,  and  drove  in  the  British  outposts. 
Shortly  after  this,  General  Hull  surrendered  to  the 
enemy,  and  Cass  was  included  in  the  capitulation  and 
paroled.  He  forthwith  proceeded  to  Washington  and 
reported  the  surrender  to  the  Government.  He  was 
soon  exchanged  as  a  prisoner  on  parole,  and  was  at 
once  appointed  to  the  Twenty-seventh  Regiment  of 
Infantry,  and,  shortly  afterward,  promoted  to  the 
rank  of  brigadier-general. 


182      EXPLORATION  OP  THE   UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

At  the  close  of  the  campaign,  General  Cass  was 
placed  in  command  of  the  Territory  of  Michigan, 
with  headquarters  at  Detroit.  He  also  received  the 
appointment  of  Civil  Governor  of  the  Territory. 

In  1814,  Governor  Cass,  associated  with  General 
Harrison,  was  authorized  to  treat  with  the  Indians  of 
Michigan,  who  had  been  hostile  to  the  United  States 
during  the  war.  The  greater  part  of  Michigan  was 
at  this  period  a  vast  wilderness,  inhabited  by  about 
fifty  thousand  savage  Indians.  No  surveys  had  been 
made  and  no  roads  had  been  opened,  the  Indians 
being  relentless  in  their  hostility  to  any  encroach- 
ment of  the  whites,  who  numbered  only  some  five  or 
six  thousand,  inclusive  of  the  settlers  in  Detroit. 
Under  these  discouraging  circumstances,  Cass  as- 
sumed the  responsibilities  of  Governor  and  Superin- 
tendent of  Indian  affairs  in  the  Territory. 

The  Northwestern  Territory  was,  up  to  this  period, 
imperfectly  known,  and,  at  the  suggestion  of  Gov- 
ernor Cass,  an  expedition  was  organized  in  1820,  in 
which  he  himself  bore  a  conspicuous  part.  Accom- 
panied by  Schoolcraft,  the  geologist  and  ethnol- 
ogist, and  six  other  gentlemen,  with  Indian  guides, 
they  embarked  on  the  twenty-fourth  of  May,  at 
Detroit,  in  three  large  canoes,  for  the  exploration  of 
the  Great  Lakes  and  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi. 
The  nearest  approach  they  made  to  the  Source  of  the 
Great  River  was  at  Upper  Cedar  Lake,  subsequently 
named  Cass  Lake,  about  two  hundred  miles  to  the 
north  of  the  lake  now  recognized  as  the  True  Head. 
Before  returning  to  Detroit,  the  expedition  had 
traversed  five  thousand  miles  of  the  Northwestern 
country. 

General  Cass  was  appointed  Secretary  of  War  by 


f183} 


184     EXPLORATION  OF  THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

President  Jackson  in  1831,  and  during  his  incum- 
bency the  Black  Hawk  War  occurred.  In  1836,  he 
submitted  an  elaborate  report  to  Congress  upon  the 
military  defenses  of  the  United  States,  and  shortly 
after  resigned  his  secretaryship  and  was  appointed 
United  States  minister  to  France.  In  January,  1845, 
he  was  elected  a  member  of  the  United  States  Sen- 
ate, and  was  subsequently  re-elected  for  a  second 
term.  He  was  a  prominent  candidate  for  the  Presi- 
dency, but  was  unsuccessful.  In  Mr.  Buchanan's 
administration  he  became  Secretary  of  State.  During 
the  Civil  War  his  sympathies  were  with  the  North, 
and  his  life  was  spared  to  witness  the  ultimate 
triumph  of  the  Government  over  a  rebellion  that  for 
a  time  threatened  its  existence. 

General  Cass  was  a  scholar  of  fine  attainments 
and  a  prudent  and  cautious  legislator.  He  was  also 
personally  popular  throughout  the  country.  He  pub- 
lished several  works,  among  them,  "Inquiries  Con- 
cerning the  History,  Traditions,  and  Languages  of 
the  Indians  Living  within  the  United  States,"  and 
"France,  Its  King,  Court,  and  Government."  He 
died  at  Detroit,  January  seventeenth,  1866,  at  the 
age  of  eighty-four. 


CHAPTER   III. 


BELTRAMI    AND   THE    "JULIAN"   SOURCE." 


^>IACOMO  Constantino  Beltrami,  a  native 
of  Bergamo,  in  the  Kepnblic  of  Venice, 
son  of  Giambattista  and  Catterina  Bel- 
trami, was  born  in  1779,  the  youngest 
of  ten  children.  His  father  held  an 
influential  position  as  Chief  of  the  Cus- 
toms of  the  Eepublic,  and  the  youngest 
son  was  educated  for  the  law.  At  the 
age  of  twenty-eight  he  was  appointed  judge  of  the 
Court  at  Udine.  By  untiring  zeal  he  gained  the  ap- 
probation of  the  Government,  and  was  promoted  to 
the  office  of  judge  of  the  Civil  and  Criminal  Court. 
The  extraordinary  energy  and  capacity  shown  by  him 
in  certain  important  matters  of  state  led  the  Minister 
of  Justice  to  write  and  compliment  him  on  his  suc- 
cess, at  the  same  time  predicting  his  elevation  to  the 
President's  chair  of  the  Court,  for  which  he  had 
already  been  proposed  to  the  French  Emperor.  This 
promise,  however,  was  never  realized,  the  Empire 
having  met  with  severe  reverses  which  crippled  its 
exercise  of  authority  over  the  foreign  states  annexed 
to  France.  In  some  way  it  was,  moreover,  strongly 
suspected  that  Beltrami  had  become  involved  in  the 
political  schemes  of  the  Carbonari — a  powerful  secret 
society  pervading  Europe — whose  aim  was  the 
destruction  of  the  Empire  and  the  deposition  of  all 

(185) 


186      EXPLORATION  OF  TtfE   tlPPfeR  MiSSISSIPPt. 

despots.  In  deference  to  the  French,  he  was  ordered 
into  exile  without  trial.     This  was  in  1821. 

Beltrami  had  a  passion  for  the  acquisition  of  lan- 
guages, both  ancient  and  modern,  and  while  still 
young  had  become  familiar  with  Latin  and  Greek 
literature,  and  also  with  several  modern  languages. 
Frank  and  faithful  in  his  intercourse  with  men,  he 
was  an  enemy  to  all  kinds  of  flattery  and  obsequious- 
ness, and  was,  at  the  same  time,  capable  of  great 
self-denial  for  the  sake  of  principle.  He  was  well 
known  to  be  a  patriot,  and  had  suffered  persecution, 
ending  in  expatriation,  to  which  latter  he  submitted 
without  complaint,  but  loving  his  country  none  the 
less. 

On  quitting  his  native  land,  he  traveled  through 
France,  England,  and  Germany,  and  made  many 
friends  among  the  literati  of  the  continent,  and,  in 
1822,  crossed  the  ocean  to  the  United  States.  At 
this  period  he  was  about  forty-four  years  of  age. 

Finding  himself  now  in  the  New  World,  with 
whose  history  he  was  entirely  familiar,  parts  of  which, 
he  soon  learned,  were  still  little  known  to  the  inhab- 
itants, his  mind  turned  to  travel  and  exploration. 
The  Valley  of  the  Mississippi  was  a  point  of  great 
interest  to  him,  and,  desiring  to  know  more  concern- 
ing it  than  he  could  gather  from  books,  he  proceeded 
to  Pittsburg,  descended  the  Ohio  River  in  company 
with  Major  Talioferra — a  fellow-countryman  long 
settled  in  America,  an  officer  in  the  United  States 
army,  and  agent  for  Indian  affairs  on  the  Upper  Mis- 
sissippi— and  embarked  with  him  for  Fort  Snelling, 
Minnesota,  which  they  reached  May  twentieth,  1823. 
It  was  his  wish  to  accompany  Major  Talioferra  up  the 
River  Saint  Peter,  at  that  time  unexplored,  with  the 


fcfcLTfcAMl  ANt)  THfc  "JtlLlAtt  SOtJfeCfc/'       18? 

intention  of  proceeding  farther  toward  the  Head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi.  "  Major  Talioferra,"  says 
Beltrami,  in  '  A  Pilgrimage  in  Europe  and  America/ 
"had  led  me  to  entertain  the  hope  that  we  should 
have  proceeded  together  up  the  Kiver  Saint  Peter, 
which  has  never  yet  been  explored,  the  source 
of  which  is  occupied  by  the  most  wild  and  powerful 
tribes  of  Sioux,  and,  as  yet,  only  vaguely  defined, 
while  the  surrounding  territory  abounds  in  buffalo. 
It  was  my  intention  to  proceed  thence  to  the  sources 
of  the  Mississippi,  which  are  still  absolutely  unknown. 

"  Thwarted  in  my  project,  I  was  on  the  point  of 
changing  my  direction  for  the  south,  intending  to 
traverse  by  land,  with  a  Canadian  interpreter  and  an 
Indian  guide,  the  desert  tracts  which  separate  Fort 
Snelling  from  Council  Bluffs.  But  at  this  period, 
Major  Long,  of  the  United  States  Topographical 
Engineers,  arrived  at  the  Port,  charged  with  an  expe- 
dition to  the  northern  boundary  of  the  vast  empire 
of  the  United  States.  I  participated  in  the  very 
great  surprise  manifested  by  the  Fort  at  the  arrival 
of  an  expedition  so  completely  unknown  to  the 
garrison." 

Beltrami's  great  desire  of  pushing  his  rambles  far- 
ther north  was  mentioned  to  Major  Long,  and  the 
former  asked  permission  to  accompany  the  expedition 
simply  in  the  character  of  a  foreigner  who  was  anx- 
ious to  see  the  country  and  to  study  the  Indian  char- 
acter. An  attempt  was  made  to  dissuade  him  from 
this.  The  sufferings  and  dangers  he  would  have  to 
encounter  were  set  before  him,  but  at  these  he  simply 
laughed  as  childish  terrors.  Continuing  he  says: 
"They  next  attacked  me  on  what  they  thought  my 
weak    side — my  purse.      After  so  long  a  digression 


188      EXPLORATION  OF  THE   UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

from  my  original  route,  which  was  to  lead  me  direct 
from  Philadelphia  to  New  Orleans,  it  might  reasonably 
be  supposed  to  be  rather  in  a  declining  state;  the 
more  so,  as  the  curiosities  I  had  bought  of  the  savages 
had  greatly  contributed  to  diminish  its  contents. 
But  a  little  fund  which  I  kept  in  reserve  disconcerted 
this  attack  also.  I  even  sacrificed  my  beautiful 
repeater,  that  I  might  leave  this  still  untouched,  and 
bought  a  horse,  and  all  provisions  that  were  Said  to  be 
necessary,  with  the  proceeds.  When  they  saw  I  was 
determined  to  go,  the  amiable  Snelling  family 
carried  their  politeness  so  far  as  to  offer  me  pecuniary 
assistance,  with  the  most  honorable  and  disinterested 
confidence,  a  thing  by  no  means  common,  especially 
toward  a  person  of  whom  they  knew  nothing  but  what 
they  had  seen." 

The  expedition  of  Major  Long  consisted  of  himself 
as  chief,  an  astronomer,  a  mineralogist,  a  physician, 
a  zoologist,  an  artist,  an  interpreter  for  the  Sioux,  a 
young  Canadian  interpreter  for  the  Algonquin  lan- 
guage, twenty-eight  troopers,  one  officer,  and  Mr. 
Snelling,  son  of  Colonel  Snelling,  commandant  of  the 
Fort. 

"  So  many  imaginary  difficulties/'  says  Beltrami, 
' '  were  not  auspicious.  I  foresaw  all  the  vexations  I 
should  have  to  experience.  *  *  *  My  intention 
of  going  in  search  of  the  real  sources  of  the  Missis- 
sippi was  always  before  my  eyes.  I  was  therefore 
obliged  to  sacrifice  my  pride,  and  my  feeling  of  what 
was  due  to  me,  to  the  desire  of  seeing  places  which 
one  can  hardly  expect  to  visit  twice  in  one's  life,  and 
of  gaining  information  one  can  gain  nowhere  else; 
and  I  gave  myself  up  to  all  I  foresaw  I  should  have 
to  endure  from  littleness  and  jealousy." 


BELTKAMI   AND   THE   "JULIAN   SOURCE."       189 

Beltrami  was  possessed  of  a  restless  and  adventur- 
ous spirit,  and  accordingly  made  his  arrangements, 
despite  all  discouragement,  to  accompany  Major 
Long's  expedition  through  Northern  Minnesota  to 
Pembina,  on  the  Red  River  of  the  North.  They  left 
Fort  Snelling  on  the  evening  of  July  seventh,  1822. 
The  expedition  was  divided  into  two  bodies,  one  of 
which  went  by  land  with  twenty  horses;  the  other 
embarked  in  five  Indian  canoes  on  the  River  Saint 
Peter.  "The  Major  traveled  by  canoe,"  says  Bel- 
trami, "and  I  followed  him,  with  the  intention  of 
going  sometimes  by  water  and  sometimes  by  land 
according  to  the  curious  or  interesting  objects  either 
route  might  offer."  It  was  arranged  that  the  two 
divisions  should  meet  every  evening. 

The  first  evening  the  entire  party  encamped  on  the 
southern  bank  of  the  Saint  Peter,  near  the  village  of 
the  chief,  Black  Dog,  which  Beltrami  visited,  but 
found  vacant.  u  Hunger  had  roused  these  savages," 
he  says,  "from  their  habitual  indolence,  and  had 
driven  them  away  to  hunt  deer  and  buffalo  in  more 
distant  forests  and  prairies.  A  hut,  which  was  shut 
and  which  I  opened,  afforded  me  some  shelter  from 
the  mosquitoes,  which  attacked  me  on  every  side. 
Behind  the  door  I  found,  hung  like  a  curtain,  a  deer- 
skin, which  the  savages  doubtless  looked  upon  as  the 
guardian  manitou  of  their  dwelling.  *  *  *  We 
dined  at  the  Prairie  des  Frangois,  so  called  from  the 
first  Frenchmen  who  pushed  their  discoveries  from 
Canada  to  this  spot,  where  they  were  all  killed  by  the 
Indians."  Proceeding  up  the  Saint  Peter,  when  sixty 
miles  from  the  Fort  the  travelers  by  canoe  encount- 
ered a  violent  rapid,  and  were  compelled  to  disem- 
bark and  drag  their  canoes  through  the  water.     Jt  is 


190      EXPLORATION   OF  THE   UPPER   MISSISSIPPI. 

described  as  a  most  romantic  spot.  "  Rocks,  pictur- 
esquely grouped,  between  which  the  winding  stream 
rushes  and  breaks  with  violence;  a  little  woody  island 
in  the  middle;  banks  clothed  with  stately  trees  on  the 
one  side,  and  broken  into  steep  and  rugged  rocks  on 
the  other,  composed  a  varied  and  interesting  picture, 
to  which  I  contrived  to  add  a  touch  of  the  grotesque. 
Being  obliged  to  get  on  board  the  canoe  to  cross  a 
deep  gulf,  my  sailors  were  so  deficient,  either  in 
strength  or  in  skill,  that  they  suffered  it  to  be  carried 
away  and  dashed  in  pieces  against  a  rock,  upon  which 
I  remained  perched." 

In  the  evening  the  expedition  halted  at  an  Indian 
encampment,  and  Beltrami,  always  observant,  wit- 
nessed what  he  calls  a  most  curious  contrast.  *'A 
woman  in  the  deepest  affliction  was  tearing  off  her 
hair,  which  she  offered  as  a  sacrifice  to  the  spirit  of 
some  dead  relative,  whose  lifeless  remains  were 
stretched  upon  a  rude  scaffold,  while  a  group  of  sav- 
ages were  eating,  drinking,  singing,  and  dancing 
around  another  dead  body,  exposed  in  the  same  man- 
ner to  the  view  of  passers-by." 

July  thirteenth  they  all  proceeded  by  land.  One 
of  the  interpreters  pointed  out  the  direction  in  which 
the  Blue  Earth  River  falls  into  the  Saint  Peter. 
"This  was  the  highest  point  of  the  Saint  Peter 
reached  by  Father  Hennepin.  The  Blue  Earth  River 
is  very  celebrated  among  the  Indians.  They  perform 
an  annual  pilgrimage  to  it  to  collect  the  blue  earth  off 
its  banks,  of  which  they  make  dye  and  paint." 

Lake  Traverse  was  reached  July  twenty-fourth — 
two  hundred  and  eighty  miles  north-northwest  of 
Port  Snelling.  It  is  on  one  of  the  highest  plateaus 
of  North  America.     "It  has  no  tributary  streams," 


BELTRAMI   AND  THE  "JULIAN   SOURCE."       191 

Beltrami  asserts,  "and  no  one  knows  whence  it 
derives  its  waters.  *  Its  length  is  about  eighteen  miles 
and  its  width  about  four  miles. 

The  party  took  leave  of  Lake  Traverse  with  a  salute 
of  musketry.  The  country  around  was  all  prairie, 
and  the  buffaloes  appeared  for  the  first  time  in  large 
numbers,  one  of  which  was  shot  by  Beltrami. 

On  July  thirty-first,  the  expedition  reached  the  Red 
River,  which  descends  from  the  eastward  through 
a  lake  of  the  same  name.  To  quote  Beltrami: 
"Geographers  tell  us  that  it  takes  its  appellation 
from  the  red  sand  or  gravel  which  covers  its  bed; 
but  there  is  nothing  red  about  it.  The  origin  of 
its  name  is  widely  different.  The  river  and  the 
lake  form  the  frontier  line  which  separates  the  ter- 
ritory of  the  Sioux  from  that  of  the  Chippewas.  It 
may  be  easily  imagined  that  the  waters  of  a  stream 
so  situated  must  have  often  been  '  red  with  the  blood 
of  the  slain/  and  that  it  has  thus  received  from  both 
the  contending  parties  the  name  of  the  Bloody 
River.  The  lake  is  in  like  manner  called  the  Bloody  or 
Red  Lake." 

On  August  third  the  expedition  arrived  at  the  cel- 
ebrated colony  of  Pembina,  founded  by  the  Earl  of 
Selkirk — two  hundred  and  sixty  miles  from  Lake 
Traverse. 

Altogether  dissatisfied  with  his  surroundings,  Bel- 
trami left  the  colony  on  the  ninth  in  company  with 
an  interpreter  and  two  Chippewas.  He  traveled  in  a 
southeasterly  direction,  and  on  the  fourth  day  killed 
two  white  bears.  "  The  white  bear,"  he  asserts,  "is 
the  only  wild  beast  of  these  regions  that  is  danger- 
ous. He  always  attacks  the  traveler.  The  black 
bear  is  timid,  and,  on  the  approach  of  man,  betakes 


192      EXPLORATION   OF   THE   UPPER   MISSISSIPPI. 

himself  to  flight.  He  feeds  entirely  on  fruits  during 
summer  and  autumn.  When  the  cold  weather  com- 
mences he  hides  himself  in  the  hollow  of  some  tree 
or  in  a  hole  he  digs  for  himself  in  the  earth.  Here 
he  remains  completely  motionless  for  the  whole  win- 
ter." 

On  the  fifth  day  out  from  Pembina,  still  proceed- 
ing in  a  southeasterly  direction,  Beltrami  and  his 
companions  arrived  at  Bobber's  Eiver,  which,  he 
explains,  was  so  named  because  a  Sioux,  in  his  flight 
from  the  vengeance  which  had  been  pronounced 
against  him  for  murder,  kept  himself  concealed,  and 
robbed  on  this  spot  for  several  years,  escaping  the 
observation  of  his  persecutors  and  enemies,  by  whom 
he  was  surrounded. 

The  interpreter  was  compelled  to  leave  him  here, 
and  he  was  therefore  alone  with  the  two  Indians. 
These  also  shortly  left,  to  proceed  to  their  destinations. 
This  occurred  on  August  fifteenth.  After  encount- 
ering many  difficulties  and  dangers,  pulling  his  canoe 
up  the  stream — as  he  was  unable  to  handle  the  paddle 
with  the  dexterity  required — he  met,  on  the  morning 
of  the  eighteenth,  two  canoes  filled  with  Indians, 
including  women  and  children,  and  persuaded  one  of 
the  men  to  accompany  him  as  far  as  Eed  Lake.  On 
reaching  the  lake,  another  interpreter  joined  him— 
the  son  of  a  Oanadian  fur  trader  and  an  Indian  woman. 
His  hut  was  twelve  miles  distant,  which  they  reached 
on  the  twenty-first. 

Having  rested  a  few  days  with  the  Canadian,  Bel- 
trami left  Eed  Lake  on  the  morning  of  the  twenty- 
sixth,  in  the  direction  of  Great  Portage  Eiver.  This 
stream,  he  says,  is  so  called  by  the  Indians  because  a 
dreadful  storm  that  occurred  on  it  bjew  down  a  vast 


13 


(193) 


194      EXPLORATION    OF  THE    UPPER   MISSISSIPPI. 

number  of  forest  trees  on  its  banks,  which  perfectly 
obstructed  its  channel,  and  so  impeded  its  navigation 
by  canoes  as  to  make  an  extensive,  or  "  great  port- 
age," necessary.  This  impediment,  however,  does 
not  appear  to  have  existed  at  the  time  of  Beltrami's 
visit,  as  he  embarked  in  his  canoe  and  proceeded  up 
its  current.  He  crossed  two  lakes  formed  by  the 
river  in  its  course,  each  about  five  or  six  miles  in  cir- 
cumference. To  these  lakes  he  gave  the  name  of  the 
Lakes  of  Wild  Rice.  After  proceeding  five  or  six 
miles  farther — always  in  a  southerly  direction — he 
entered  a  large  lake,  or  expansion  of  the  river, 
with  a  circumference  of  twenty  miles.  This  lake,  he 
states,  is  situated  at  a  very  short  distance  from  high 
lands,  which  divide  the  waters  flowing  northward 
from  those  which  take  a  southerly  direction.  He  at 
length  reached  the  source  of  the  Red  River,  which,  he 
says,  "  springs  out  of  the  ground  in  the  middle  of  a 
small  prairie."  *  *  *  "  A  small  hill  overhangs  the 
source,  and  I  am  now,"  he  exclaims,  "  on  the  highest 
land  of  North  America.  Casting  my  eye  around,  I 
perceive  the  flow  of  waters — to  the  south  toward  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico;  to  the  north  toward  the  Frozen  Sea; 
on  the  east  to  the  Atlantic,  and  on  the  west  toward 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  A  platform  crowns  this  supreme 
elevation,  and,  what  is  still  more  astonishing,  in  the 
midst  of  it  rises  a  lake.  The  source  of  the  Red  River 
is  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  filtrates  in  a  direct  line 
from  the  north  bank  of  the  lake.  On  the  other  side 
of  the  hill,  toward  the  south,  and  equally  at  the  foot 
of  the  hill,  other  sources  form  a  beautiful  little 
basin  about  eighty  feet  in  circumference.  These 
waters  filtrate  from  the  lake  on  the  top  of  the  hill 
toward  its  southwestern  extremity.    These  sources  are 


BELTRAMI   AND   THE   "JULIAN   SOURCE."       195 

the  actual  sources  of  the  Mississippi.  This  lake, 
therefore,  supplies  the  most  southern  source  of  Keel 
or  Bloody  River,  and  the  most  northern  source  of  the 
Mississippi — sources  until  now  unknown.  The  small 
lake  has  no  surface  issue  and  no  inlet.  Its  waters 
boil  up  in  the  middle.  All  my  sounding  lines  have 
been  insufficient  to  ascertain  its  depth.  The  lake  is 
about  three  miles  round.  It  is  formed  in  the  shape 
of  a  heart.  I  have  given  it  the  name  of  a  respected 
lady,  and  have  called  it  Lake  Julia;  and  the  sources 
of  the  two  rivers,  the  Julian  source  of  the  Eed  River, 
and  the  Julian  source  of  the  Mississippi — which, 
in  the  Algonquin  language,  means  Father  of  Waters. 

"  The  Julian  source  of  the  Mississippi  runs  directly 
south  by  a  narrow  stream  of  three  miles'  length  into 
Turtle  Lake.  If  I  had  not  been  afraid  of  adventuring 
my  canoe  amidst  the  almost  impassable  brambles  and 
brushwood,  I  should  have  commenced  the  navigation 
of  the  river  from  the  very  spot  on  which  it  springs. 
The  famous  Mississippi,  whose  course  is  said  to  be 
three  thousand  miles,  and  which  bears  navies  on  its 
bosom,  and  steamboats  superior  in  size  to  frigates,  is, 
at  its  source,  merely  a  petty  stream  of  crystalline 
water,  concealing  itself  among  reeds  and  wild  rice, 
which  seem  to  exult  over  its  humble  birth." 

Beltrami  did  not  visit  Lake  Itasca.  He  says  it  was 
called  by  the  Indians  u  Biche  Lake,"  from  the  French 
Lac  la  Biche  or  Elk  Lake.  This  lake,  he  asserts  on 
the  authority  of  others,  is  the  western  source  of  the 
Mississippi. 

We  may  here  observe  that  the  Lake  Julia  of  Bel- 
trami is  not  recognized  by  geographers  as  possessing 
any  valid  or  reasonable  title  to  be  considered  the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi.    The  stream  flowing  from  i  t 


196      EXPLORATION  OF  THE   UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

is  merely  an  affluent  of  the  Great  River,  entering  it 
over  three  hundred  miles  below  Lake  Itasca.  It  was 
shown  by  Schoolcraft  that  Lake  Itasca  was  at  least 
one  hundred  miles  more  distant  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Mississippi  than  Lake  Julia.  Beltrami's  enthu- 
siasm led  him  into  an  error  which  is  not  surprising, 
as  little  or  nothing  was  known  of  the  region  he  trav- 
ersed, at  the  period  of  his  journey  south  from  Pem- 
bina. In  common  with  Pike,  Cass,  Schoolcraft, 
Nicollet,  and  others,  he  fully  believed  in  his  alleged 
discovery,  which  more  modern  investigation,  how- 
ever, has  disproved. 

On  his  return,  travel-worn,  from  the  Upper  Mis- 
sissippi, in  the  autumn  of  1824,  he  decided  to  visit 
New  Orleans,  in  which  city  he  remained  for  a  time, 
preparing  an  account  of  his  travels  and  discoveries 
for  the  press.  From  New  Orleans  he  embarked  for 
Mexico,  and  traversed  that  country  from  east  to 
west,  after  which  he  returned  to  the  United  States 
and  proceeded  to  Philadelphia.  .  Here  arrangements 
were  made  for  the  publication  of  his  book.  Return- 
ing to  England  shortly  after,  his  other  works  were 
given  to  the  press  in  London. 

The  last  years  of  the  life  of  Beltrami  were  spent 
on  his  estate  in  Italy,  surrounded  by  friends.  His 
height  was  six  feet,  and  it  is  said  he  was  proud  of 
bearing,  high-spirited,  but  always  the  gentleman. 
His  death  occurred  in  February,  1855,  at  the  age  of 
seventy-five  years. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

SCHOOLCRAFT  AND  LAKE  ITASCA. 

ENRY  ROWE  SCHOOLCRAFT,  who 

succeeded  General  Cass  in  Missis- 
sippi exploration,  was  born  in  Albany 
County,  New  York,  March  twenty 
eighth,  1793,  during  the  seconc 
presidential  term  of  Washington. 
His  great-grandfather  on  the  paternal  side  was  James 
Calcraft,  an  Englishman,  who,  in  the  reign  of  George 
II.,  embarked  with  a  detachment  of  troops  intended 
to  act  against  the  French  in  Canada. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  campaign  he  remained  in 
America,  settled  in  Albany  County,  and  for  many 
years  conducted  a  school  in  this  settlement.  For 
some  unknown  reason  he  changed  his  family  name 
from  Calcraft  to  Schoolcraft,  by  which  he  was  known 
for  some  time  before  his  death,  which  took  place  at 
the  great  age  of  one  hundred  and  two  years.  His 
son  Lawrence  was  the  father  of  Henry,  whose  youth 
was  spent  in  the  village  of  Hamilton,  about  thirty 
miles  from  Utica.  As  a  boy  he  showed  an  inclination 
for  study,  and  while  at  Middlebury  College  he  gave 
much  attention  to  the  various  branches  of  science, 
more  especially  chemistry,  mineralogy,  geology,  and 
ethnology. 

In  1817,  at  the  age  of  twenty-four,  he  was  led  by  a 
spirit  of  enterprise  to  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi, 
traveling  through  Missouri  and  Arkansas.     During 

(197) 


198      EXPLORATION  OF  THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

this  journey  he  collected  a  large  number  of  geolog- 
ical and  mineralogical  specimens.  In  1819  he  pub- 
lished a  work  on  the  mines  and  mineral  resources  of 
Missouri,  and  proceeded  to  Washington,  where  he 
was  favorably  received  by  President  Monroe,  and  by 
Calhoun  and  Crawford,  members  of  the  Cabinet. 

Secretary  Calhoun,  who  was  struck  by  the  earnest- 
ness of  his  views  and  scientific  attainments,  offered 
him  the  situation  of  geologist  and  mineralogist  to  an 
exploring  expedition  which  the  War  Department  was 
about  to  dispatch  to  the  Headwaters  of  the  Missis- 
sippi River  under  the  leadership  of   General  Cass. 

The  point  of  embarkation  of  this  expedition  was  at 
Detroit,  where  the  Indian  canoes  were  secured  which 
were  to  be  the  chosen  conveyances. 

At  four  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  the  twenty- 
fourth  of  May,  1820,  the  small  fleet  was  in  readiness, 
and  in  the  midst  of  an  interested  assemblage  the 
voyageurs,  with  a  swift  stroke  of  their  paddles, 
pushed  away  from  shore,  chanting  one  of  their  ani- 
mated boat  songs. 

From  Lake  Saint  Clair  the  expedition  moved  along 
the  southern  shore  of  Lakes  Huron  and  Superior,  up 
the  Saint  Louis  River,  and  by  the  Savannah  to  the 
Mississippi,  which  was  ascended  as  far  as  Upper  Red 
Cedar  Lake,  named  by  Schoolcraft,  in  honor  of  their 
leader,  "  Cassina,"  and  which,  he  says  in  1820,  li  may 
be  considered  the  true  source  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
although  the  greatest  body  of  water  is  said  to  come 
down  the  Leech  Luke  Branch." 

One  night  was  spent  on  the  shore  of  Cass  Lake, 
and,  as  it  was  impracticable,  at  that  season  of  the 
year,  to  go  farther,  preparations  were  made  to  embark 
before  daylight  the  next  morning,  the  twenty-second 


SCHOOLCRAFT   AND   LAKE  ITASCA.  199 

of  July — the  very  day  on  which,  sixty-one  years  later, 
my  exploring  party  stood  npon  the  solitary  shores  of 
the  lake  beyond  Itasca,  and  knew  it  to  be  indeed  the 
True  Source  of  the  Great  River. 

From  Cass  Lake  the  party  descended  the  river  to 
the  Wisconsin,  where  Schoolcraft  obtained  permission 
from  the  Governor  to  go  down  to  the  lead  mines  of 
Dubuque.  Eejoining  his  companions,  the  journey 
was  commenced  to  Green  Bay,  where  the  party  sepa- 
rated, the  Governor  and  his  escort  going  on  to 
Detroit,  while  a  detachment  under  Captain  Douglas 
went  around  Lake  Michigan  to  make  a  topographical 
survey.  The  information  obtained  by  this  expedition 
concerning  the  condition  of  the  Indians,  the  natural 
history  and  mineralogy  of  the  region  along  the 
Upper  Lakes  made  a  valuable  addition  to  the  popu- 
lar knowledge  of  the  Northwestern  frontier,  while, 
with  the  treaty  concluded  at  the  Sault,  the  safety  of 
the  country  was  made  much  more  secure. 

Again,  in  1830,  Schoolcraft  was  commissioned  to 
lead  an  expedition  into  the  Upper  Mississippi  Valley 
to  attempt  a  reconciliation  between  the  Sioux  and 
Chippewas,  who  had  renewed  their  old  hostilities;  but 
these  instructions  did  not  reach  him  at  the  Sault 
until  August,  and  he  reported  that  it  was  then  too 
late  to  undertake  such  an  enterprise,  as  the  Indians 
would  have  gone  to  their  hunting-grounds,  and  a 
return  would  be  prevented  by  the  frozen  streams. 
The  following  year  these  instructions  were  repeated, 
and  arrangements  for  it  were  completed  at  Saint 
Mary's.  A  geologist  and  botanist  accompanied  the 
expedition,  and  the  small  body  of  military  were 
under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Robert  E.  Clary. 

At  this  time  Schoolcraft  crossed  the  "lead  mine"' 


200      EXPLORATION   OF  THE   UPPER   MISSISSIPPI. 

country,  carefully  following  trails,  intercepting  war 
parties,  and  enforcing  the  peace  policy  of  the  Gov- 
ernment. It  wius  evident  that  measures  should 
immediately  be  taken  to  quell  the  discontent  rising 
among  the  different  tribes,  and  a  report  to  this  effect 
was  sent  to  Washington.  Mr.  Calhoun,  Secretary  of 
War,  approved  of  this  suggestion,  and  Schoolcraft 
was  again  put  in  charge  of  an  expedition  which  was 
to  ascertain  the  condition  and  sentiment  of  the  tribes 
of  the  Upper  Mississippi. 

A  small  body  of  infantry,  commanded  by  Lieuten- 
ant James  Allen,  escorted  the  party,  and  a  represen- 
tative of  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for 
Foreign  Missions  joined  the  expedition  to  discover 
the  needs  of  the  Indians  of  the  region. 

From  Saint  Mary's  the  same  course  was  followed 
as  in  the  expedition  of  1820.  At  Sandy  Lake  a 
council  of  the  lower  tribes  was  called  and  an  appoint- 
ment made  to  meet  them  again  at  the  Eiver  Des 
Corbeau,  and  having  sent  a  boat  laden  with  presents 
and  supplies  down  the  Mississippi  to  await  his  return, 
Schoolcraft  went  on  to  Cass  Lake,  from  which  point 
he  intended  to  prosecute  his  explorations  about  the 
Head  of  the  Mississippi, which  he  had  learned,  since  the 
expedition  of  1820,  was  to  be  found  beyond  Cass  Lake. 

On  one  of  the  larger  islands  of  this  lake,  called 
Grand  Island,  there  was  a  Chippewa  settlement,  of 
which  Ozawindib  was  chief;  and,  as  the  place  was 
favorable  for  a  camp,  most  of  the  men  were  left 
here  in  charge  of  an  officer,  while  the  explorers  of  the 
party,  embarked  in  light  canoes  and  proceeded  in 
search  of  the  "source"  of  the  river.  Ozawindib 
volunteered  to  guide  the  party. 

Passing  westward  from  Cass  Lake  the  chief  brought 


SCHOOLCRAFT   AND   LAKE   ITASCA.  201 

the  party  to  the  junction  of  the  East  and  AYest  forks 
of  the  river,  but  instead  of  following  the  larger 
stream  which  leads  directly  to  Lake  Itasca  he  pushed 
his  canoe  into  the  milder  current  of  the  East  Fork, 
and  down  this  the  voyagers  paddled. 

A  miserable  night  was  spent  on  the  low  shore  of 
this  stream  and  a  day  of  hard  paddling  followed; 
incidents  which  can  only  be  appreciated  by  those  who 
have  had  similar  experiences. 

The  region,  rich  in  game,  kept  the  men  supplied, 
and  a  deer  was  killed  beyond  Lake  Plantagenet; 
c*  but  we  were  impelled  forward  by  higher  objects 
than  hunting,"  writes  Schoolcraft,  and  adds:  "It 
was,  indeed,  geographical  and  scientific  facts  that  we 
were  hunting  for.  To  trace  to  its  source  an  impor- 
tant river,  and  to  fix  the  actual  point  of  its  origin, 
furnished  the  mental  stimulus  which  led  us  to  care 
but  little  where  we  slept  or  what  we  ate." 

On  the  thirteenth  of  June  the  source  of  the  East 
Fork  was  reached.  From  here  the  portage  was  com- 
menced over  the  highlands  which  surround  the 
remoter  lakes.  The  journey  now  became  more  dim- 
cult.  An  Indian  trail  was  found  with  the  usual 
signs  of  camps  along  its  route. 

Just  below  the  highlands  breakfast  was  prepared, 
as  the  men  had  not  broken  their  fast  since  starting 
upon  the  trail  at  dawn,  yet  in  their  eagerness  to  move 
forward  the  journey  was  soon  resumed  and  the  labo- 
rious tramp  through  thicket  and  marsh  begun. 

With  a  canoe  on  his  back,  Ozawindib  led  the  way, 
the  voyageurs  and  members  of  the  expedition  follow- 
ing. Gradually  the  ground  began  to  rise,  the  under- 
brush became  less  dense,  and  Ozawindib,  throwing 
the  canoe  from  his  shoulders,  sat  down  and  lit  his 


202      EXPLORATION   OF  THE   UPPER   MISSISSIPPI. 

pipe  in  token  that  the  first  "  Onwaybee,"  or  rest,  was 
reached.  At  the  summit  of  the  last  hill,  Schoolcraft, 
who  had  been  keeping  close  at  the  chiefs  heels,  ran 
ahead  of  him,  and,  as  he  says,  "got  the  first  glimpse 
of  the  glittering  nymph  we  had  been  pursuing." 

As  there  was  no  time  to  lose,  owing  to  the  pressing 
engagement  made  by  Schoolcraft  to  meet  Indians  in 
council  on  the  twenty-fourth  of  July,  at  the  mouth 
of  Crow  Wing  River,  a  small  fire  was  at  once  made 
on  the  beach  for  the  Indians  to  melt  their  pitch  and 
repair  the  canoes.  This  done,  all  re-embarked  and 
paddled  for  an  island  in  the  center  of  the  lake  which 
they  had  now  entered.  This  island  has  since  been 
named  after  Schoolcraft. 

Twenty-eight  years  before,  the  fur  trader,  William 
Morrison,  had  built  his  cabin  on  this  island,  but  at 
that  time  the  question  of  the  Source  of  the  river  had 
not  assumed  any  especial  importance,  being  generally 
understood  to  lie  somewhere  among  the  upper  lakes. 
When,  therefore,  his  successor  made  known  the 
importance  of  this  "glittering  nymph,"  which  he 
had  named  Itasca,  he  was  given  the  credit  of  its 
discovery,  since  Morrison,  either  from  neglect  or 
indifference,  had  made  no  mention  of  it.  School- 
craft's own  description  of  the  lake  as  he  saw  it  at  this 
memorable  time,  is  most  graphic:  "  There  was  not  a 
breath  of  wind.  We  often  rested  to  behold  the  scene. 
It  is  not  a  lake  overhung  by  rocks.  Not  a  precipice 
is  in  sight,  or  a  stone,  save  the  pebbles  and  boulders 
of  the  drift  era  which  are  scattered  on  the  beach.  The 
water-fowl,  whom  we  disturbed  in  their  seclusion, 
seemed  rather  loath  to  fly  up.  At  one  point  we 
observed  a  deer  standing  in  the  water  and  stooping 
down,  apparently  to  eat  the  moss." 


(203) 


204      EXPLORATION   OF  THE   UPPER   MISSISSIPPI. 

Itasca  is  indeed  a  most  beautiful  and  tranquil  sheet 
of  water,  and  characteristically  different  from  the  lake 
beyond,  which  impresses  the  beholder,  not  with  its 
tranquillity,  but  with  a  certain  wild  and  rugged  soli- 
tude, perhaps  more  imposing  to  a  lover  of  sterner 
aspects. 

At  their  island  camp  the  travelers  busied  them- 
selves with  their  different  occupations;  Schoolcraft 
studying  the  geology,  the  botanist  examining  the 
plants,  while  Lieutenant  Allen  made  a  rough  map  of 
the  lake.  Having  faith  in  the  descriptions  of  his 
guide,  the  explorer  believed  that  an  arm  of  the  lake 
stretched  southward,  receiving  a  small  brook  at  its 
extremity,  but  owing  to  the  limitation  of  time,  and 
to  an  apparent  reliance  upon  Ozawindib  as  a  topog- 
rapher, no  attempt  was  made  to  verify  this  fact  or 
even  to  coast  the  shores.  Before  tents  were  struck 
in  the  afternoon,  Schoolcraft  directed  a  flag  to  be 
hoisted,  and  having  made  a  cursory  examination, 
the  party  embarked  and  proceeded  down  the  West 
Fork  of  the  river,  en  route  to  Cass  Lake. 

Here  Ozawindib  was  dismissed,  and  the  original 
party  left  in  camp  on  Grand  Island,  joined  the  expe- 
dition. Having  returned  to  Leech  Lake,  Flat-Mouth 
entertained  them,  and  at  the  council  which  Schoolcraft 
called  there,  represented  the  warriors  of  his  tribe. 

In  the  course  of  his  remarks  this  formidable  Chip- 
pewa handed  the  "  White  Chief"  a  bundle  of  forty- 
three  small  sticks.  "This  is  the  number  of  Leech 
Lake  Chippewas  killed  by  the  Sioux  since  the  treaty 
of  Prairie-du-Chien,"  then,  lifting  up  a  string  of 
silver  medals,  smeared  with  vermilion,  he  continued, 
"  Take  notice,  they  are  bloody.  I  wish  you  to  wipe 
the  blood  off,  I  can  not  do  it.     1  find  myself  in  a  war 


SCHOOLCRAFT  AND  LAKE  ITASCA.  205 

with  this  people,  and  I  believe  it  has  been  intended 
by  the  Creator  that  we  should  be  at  war  with  them. 
My  warriors  are  brave;  it  is  to  them  that  I  owe 
success." 

This  speech  evinced  the  feelings  of  the  Indians  at 
the  time  of  Schoolcraft's  visit  to  the  Headwaters  of 
the  Mississippi.  The  explorer  himself  alludes  with 
evident  forebodings  to  the  uprising  under  Black 
Hawk  on  Kock  River,  and  found  it  necessary  to 
make  as  imposing  a  display  as  possible  of  the  small 
force  with  him.  Several  days  later  the  rendezvous 
at  the  mouth  of  Crow  Wing  River  was  reached,  the 
council  held,  and  the  usual  policy  observed. 

In  1832  Schoolcraft  was  appointed  Indian  Agent 
for  the  tribes  of  the  Lake  Eegion,  and  established  his 
headquarters  at  Mackinaw,  where  the  following  year 
he  married  the  grand-daughter  of  a  noted  Ojibway 
chief,  who  had  received  her  education  in  Europe. 
At  the  time  of  his  journey  to  Lake  Itasca  he  was  a 
member  of  the  Michigan  Legislature,  and  was  subse- 
quently made  Assistant  Superintendent  of  Indian 
Affairs.  In  1845,  he  was  designated,  by  the  New 
York  Legislature,  a  commissioner  to  take  the  census 
of  the  Indians  in  the  State,  and  collect  information 
concerning  the  Six  Nations,  and  having  performed 
this  task  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  authorities,  he 
was  authorized  by  Congress  to  obtain  reports  relating 
to  all  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  country  and  to  collate 
and  edit  the  results  of  his  labors.  The  remaining 
years  of  his  life  were  spent  in  this  work.  He  was 
elected  a  member  of  several  scientific  societies  in  this 
country  and  Europe;  the  degree  of  LL.  D.  being 
conferred  on  him  by  the  University  of  Geneva.  He 
is  the  author  of  thirty-one  works  treating  of  various 


$06      EXPLORATION   OF  THE   UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

branches  of  science  in  connection  with  his  extended 
explorations  through  various  sections  of  the  county. 
He  is  also  the  author  of  several  poems  of  merit, 
lectures,  and  numerous  reports  on  Indian  subjects. 

In  1852  his  Indian  wife  died,  and  five  years  later 
he  married  Miss  Mary  Howard  of  Beaufort,  South 
Carolina;  a  highly  educated  and  accomplished  woman, 
who  became  his  assistant  and  amanuensis  during  the 
preparation  of  his  last  work  when  he  was  helpless 
with  paralysis. 

The  early  period  at  which  Schoolcraft  entered  the 
field  of  observation  as  a  naturalist,  the  enterprise  and 
iuterest  he  manifested  from  the  outset  in  the  geology 
arid  geography  of  the  Great  West,  and  his  subsequent 
researches  as  an  ethnologist  in  investigating  the 
Indian  languages  and  history,  entitle  him  to  the 
highest  consideration.  No  explorer  has  done  more 
than  he  to  enlighten  the  nation  on  matters  of  the 
greatest  importance  connected  especially  with  the 
Great  Lakes  and  the  Mississippi  Valley.  He  waaan 
example  of  what  talent  andt  zeal  united  with  energy 
of  character  may  accomplish  in  the  cause  of  letters 
and  science  by  the  mere  force  of  application,  without 
the  advantages  of  hereditary  wealth,  the  impulse  of 
patronage,  or  the  prestige  of  early  academical  honors. 

We  are  indebted  to  him  for  our  first  accounts  of 
the  mineral  wealth  of  the  great  valley  beyond  the 
Alleghenies,  and  he  approached  more  nearly  to  the 
True  Source  of  the  Great  Eiver  of  North  America  than 
any  of  his  predecessors.  His  error  in  supposing  that 
he  had  reached  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  can  not 
be  placed  to  his  discredit,  as  circumstances  beyond 
his  control  prevented  the  consummation  of  his  efforts. 
He  pursued  the  stream  to  the  points  at  which  it  had 


SCHOOLCRAFT   AND   LAKE   ITASCA. 


207 


been  explored  in  1805  by  Lieutenant  Pike,  and  in 
1820  by  General  Cass,  and  reached  Lake  Itasca,  July 
twenty-first,  1832.  In  the  following  year  he  published 
the  account  of  his  discovery. 

In  1841,  he  removed  from  his  Northwestern  resi- 
dence at  the  Sault,  to  the  city  of  New  York,  and  in 
the  following  year  visited  England,  France,  Germany, 
Prussia,  Belgium,  and  Holland. 

Twenty  years  were  still  left  him  in  which  to  enjoy 
the  deserved  appreciation  of  his  labors  and  the 
benefits  of  his  wide  travels.  He  died  in  Washington, 
December  tenth,  1864,  at  a  time  when  the  capital 
was  in  a  ferment  over  the  Civil  War;  but  his  person- 
ality was  not  lost  in  the  nation's  sorrow,  for  as  long  as 
the  great  North  American  River  has  a  history,  the 
discoverer  of  Itasca  will  not  be  forgotten. 


fife 


SCHOOLCRAFT  ISLAUDT.  ;<"*•***. 


CHAPTER  V. 

INVESTIGATIONS  OF  NICOLLET. 

IN  his  own  country  this  scholarly  explorer 
left  some  trace  of  his  abilities;  yet  only 
such  as  would  make  him  known  in  the 
circle  in  which  he  moved — the  circle 
of  the  scholar  and  the  man  of  science. 
At  Chises,  in  Savoy,  where  he  was  born 
in  178G,  Nicollet  began  life  as  a  farmer 
boy,  working  in  the  fields  and  leading  the  cows  to 
pasture;  but  the  turning  point  came  when,  at  twelve 
years)  he  commenced  to  read.  From  this  time  he 
made  such  rapid  progress,  that  he  soon  entered  the 
college  of  his  native  place,  finishing  his  course  there 
with  such  success  that  he  was  able  at  its  completion 
to  take  the  assistant  professorship  of  mathematics  at 
Chambery. 

From  here  he  went  to  the  French  capital  with  a 
recommendation  to  Tochon  and  Bouvart,  two  noted 
savants;  and  was  soon  in  his  favorite  element  study- 
ing astronomy  with  Laplace,  and  acting  as  secretary 
and  librarian  of  the  Eoyal  Observatory. 

With  quick  advancement,  this  position  was  soon 
exchanged  for  an  appointment  in  the  Bureau  of 
Longitudes  and  a  professorship  of  mathematics  in  the 
College  of  Louis  le  Grand;  while  he  held  at  the  same 
time  the  post  of  examiner  of  candidates  for  the  Naval 
School.  In  1825  he  received  the  Cross  of  the  Legion 
of  Honor.     Unfortunately,  soon  after  this,  Professor 

(208) 


INVESTIGATIONS   OF  NICOLLET.  209 

Nicollet  was  seized  with  a  desire  for  riches,  and 
beginning  to  speculate  on  a  small  scale  with  satisfac- 
tory results,  he  finally  risked  all;  only  to  find  him- 
self, after  the  revolution  of  1830,  involved  in  the 
general  ruin. 

All  France  was  at  this  time  in  a  ferment;  Paris 
was  the  theatre  of  action;  and  the  outbreak  of  July 
caused  a  fall  in  the  public  funds  which  threatened 
disaster  to  more  than  one  fortune. 

Through  these  events  Nicollet  was  driven  back  to 
his  accustomed  labors,  wiser  for  the  bitter  experience. 
It  is  only  necessary  to  follow  his  life  to  this  point  to 
discover  the  spirit  which  led  him,  in  December,  1831, 
to  come  to  America  for  the  purpose  of  contributing 
to  the  progressive  increase  of  knowledge  in  its  phys- 
ical geography.  His  predecessors  had,  with  a  few 
exceptions,  been  led  to  make  their  journeys  either  to 
gratify  a  love  of  adventure  or  to  satisfy  a  natural 
curiosity;  but  he  dignified  his  explorations  by  making 
them  in  the  name  of  science. 

His  plan  was  to  explore  the  Allegheny  range  "in 
its  various  extensions  through  the  Southern  States;" 
to  ascend  the  Red  and  Arkansas  rivers  and  the  Mis- 
souri part  way,  and  to  explore  the  Mississippi  River 
"  from  its  mouth  to  its  very  source." 

After  devoting  five  years  to  the  carrying  out  of 
this  plan,  Nicollet  returned  to  Baltimore.  His  work 
was  not  unknown  to  Government,  and  he  soon  received 
a  notice  from  the  War  Department  to  go  to  Washing- 
ton that  arrangements  might  be  made  for  an  expedi- 
tion to  the  country  lying  about  the  Headwaters  of  the 
Mississippi,  which  would  enable  him  to  complete  his 
map  of  that  region,  and  Lieutenant  Fremont,  of  the 
14 


210      EXPLORATION   OF  THE   UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers  had  been  engaged 
to  accompany  him. 

The  Coteau  des  Prairies  seems  to  be  the  point  from 
which  the  explorer  looked  out  upon  the  region 
embraced  within  the  limits  of  his  map,  and  indeed 
it  commands  a  view  of  "  the  green  turf  that  forms 
the  basin  of  the  Ked  Kiver  of  the  North,  the  forest- 
capped  summits  of  the  Hauteur  des  Terres  that  sur- 
round the  source  of  the  Mississippi,  the  granite 
valley  of  the  Upper  Saint  Peter,  and  the  depressions 
in  which  are  Lake  Traverse  and  the  Big  Stone  Lake." 

Passing  up  the  Saint  Peter,  Nicollet  left  the  main 
stream  at  the  Sioux  Portage,  following  this  trail  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Waraju,  by  which  he  ascended  to 
the  Shetek  lakes  and  thence  to  the  Coteau. 

In  going  from  the  Shetek  lakes  to  the  Eed  Pipestone 
Quarry,  the  party  came  upon  the  ruins  of  ancient 
breastworks  similar  to  those  found  by  Carver  on  the 
Mississippi,  and  recalling  again  the  pre-historic  man 
who  fought  and  lived  in  this  "  old,  old  land  which 
men  call  new." 

Upon  nearing  the  quarry  where  the  Indians  from 
the  surrounding  nations  come  to  get  the  favorite 
material  for  their  pipes — a  place  believed  by  them  to 
be  under  the  control  of  the  Great  Spirit,  who  salutes 
the  visitor  with  thunder  and  lightning,  Nicollet  and 
his  party  were  overtaken  by  a  heavy  storm  and  were 
obliged  to  wait  until  it  had  passed  over;  but  the 
explorer  humorously  remarks  that  the  Great  Spirit 
soon  showed  his  good  favor,  for  the  sun  came  out 
again,  and  the  journey  was  resumed.  Camp  was 
made  on  this  "  consecrated  ground"  and  the  travelers 
had  the  pleasure  of  watching  at  sunset  the  illumined 
bluffs  which  seemed  like  "  the  ruins  of  some  ancient 


INVESTIGATIONS  OF  NICOLLET.  211 

city  built  of  marble  and  porphyry."  Nicollet  men- 
tions, in  describing  this  remarkable  place,  the  customs 
observed  by  the  Indians  when  they  come  for  the  pipe- 
stone.  Some  one  of  their  number  is  selected  to  work  at 
the  quarry,  and  before  the  journey  is  made,  this  one 
must  observe  a  three-days'  purification.  At  the  end 
of  this  time  he  and  his  companions  start  out  for  the 
coveted  stone,  and  having  reached  the  quarry,  after 
offering  gifts  to  the  presiding  deity,  the  man  goes  to 
work.  He  cuts  into  the  rock  wherever  his  judgment 
advises;  but  if  he  fails  to  select  the  most  favorable 
spot  he  is  discarded  and  another  takes  his  place. 

In  speaking  of  the  Cannon  River  which  Nicollet 
explored,  and  which  lies  within  his  romantic  "  Undine 
Region"  toward  which  the  Saint  Peter  dips  in  its 
midway  curve,  he  gives  his  reason  for  believing  this 
stream  identical  with  La  Hontan's  "Long  River" 
and  has  therefore  called  it  after  that  early  explorer. 

With  amusing  incidents  he  describes  the  character- 
istics of  each  waterway  which  he  traversed,  from 
Devil's  Lake  to  the  smallest  tributary  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. 

Returning  from  the  former  on  his  way  to  the 
valley  of  the  Red  River  he  mentions  the  strange 
behavior  of  his  Indian  "  Dixon"  who  generally  kept 
ahead  of  the  party  as  guide.  He  had  a  habit  of 
making  the  signal  to  rest  by  sitting  down  and  light- 
ing his  pipe  while  he  waited  for  the  others  to  come 
up,  but  invariably  sat  facing  them.  On  one  occasion, 
however,  Nicollet,  who  was  closely  following  him, 
noticed  that  he  had  stopped  on  the  crest  of  a  hill, 
sat  down  with  his  back  to  the  others  and  without 
changing  his  position  stolidly  waited.  Upon  reach- 
ing the  inexplicable  savage  he  found  him  looking  off 


212      EXPLORATION"  OF  THE   UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

in  "  ecstatic  contemplation"  over  the  magnificent 
valley  of  the  Red  River  of  the  North.  The  party  had 
known  for  some  time  that  they  must  be  near  it,  but 
were  unprepared  for  this  strange  introduction. 

Upon  reaching  Crow  Wing  River  on  his  way  to 
the  "  source  "of  the  Mississippi,  Nicollet  determined 
to  follow  another  course  than  that  pursued  succes- 
sively by  Pike,  Cass,  and  Schoolcraft;  he  therefore 
went  to  Leech  Lake  by  a  route  lying  between  the 
Crow  Wing  and  the  Mississippi. 

The  first  three  days  of  his  stay  at  Leech  Lake  were 
far  from  pleasant.  Flat-Mouth,  head-chief  of  the 
Chippewas,  and  father  of  the  chief  of  the  same  name 
who  entertained  my  party  in  1881,  was  absent  at  the 
time,  and  the  missionary  of  the  place,  Rev.  Mr. 
Boutwell,  was  detained  by  high  winds  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  lake.  Nicollet  afterward  discovered  that 
the  annoyance  from  the  Indians  was  due  to  their 
impression  that  he  was  poor,  as  he  had  very  few 
presents  for  them,  and  this  caused  them  to  look  upon 
him  with  contempt  and  even  to  threaten  his  life. 

When  Mr.  Boutwell  arrived  peace  was  in  a  measure 
restored  and  a  mutual  sympathy  sprang  up  between 
the  two  Frenchmen. 

Mr.  Boutwell  had  come  to  Leech  Lake  some  time 
before  to  work  among  the  "  pillagers,"  a  name  given 
the  Indians  there  by  the  Schoolcraft  party,  whose 
supplies  they  had  molested,  and  of  which  they  had 
since  proudly  boasted.  Boutwell  was  a  man  of  zeal 
and  devotion  and  no  doubt  exerted  a  strong  influence. 

From  Leech  Lake,  Nicollet  started  for  the  Head- 
waters of  the  river  in  a  canoe,  accompanied  by  his 
guide  Brunet,  DesirS,  a  voyageur,  and  a  Chippewa 
called  Kegwedzissag.     He  followed  the  course  of  the 


ItfVESTIGATlOtfS  OF  KlCOLLEt.  213 

Kabekonaug  Kiver,  whose  shores  were  so  thickly 
wooded  that  in  order  to  make  a  passage  it  was 
necessary  to  cut  away  the  overhanging  branches. 
This  protection,  with  that  of  the  hills  on  either  side, 
have  given  its  waters  a  very  even  temperature,  so 
that  Nicollet  paddling  through  them  in  August  was 
surprised  to  find  that  they  had  reached  only  54°. 

From  this  stream  a  portage  was  made  to  La  Place 
Kiver  which  was  followed  to  its  source,  and  here  near 
Schoolcraft's  old  camp-ground,  Nicollet  made  some 
astronomical  observations  although  he  was  "assailed 
by  torrents  of  mosquitoes,"  which  three  times  extin- 
guished the  lights  of  his  lanterns. 

Notwithstanding  the  party  was  awake  by  four 
o'clock  the  next  morning  to  make  the  final  portage  to 
Itasca,  the  march  was  not  begun  until  half  past  six; 
but  the  leader  of  the  expedition  excuses  this  tardiness 
by  referring  to  the  heat  and  mosquitoes  which  is  quite 
enough  to  elicit  the  sympathy  of  those  who  have  felt 
the  effect  of  this  combination.  When  at  last  the 
signal  was  given,  Brunet  took  up  the  canoe,  Desire 
and  Kegwedzissag  assumed  their  respective  burdens, 
while  Nicollet  distributed  about  his  person  his  instru- 
ments, cloak,  gun,  powder-flask,  shot-bag,  and  a 
luxury  seldom  known  to  the  explorer — his  umbrella. 
"  It  will  be  readily  conceived  from  this  description  of 
my  equipment,"  he  says,  "that  although  the  one 
least  loaded,  I  was  the  most  inconvenienced.  *  *  * 
Necessity  engrossed  me  with  the  safety  of  my  instru- 
ments. I  will  confess  it,  my  mind  frequently 
became  bewildered,  so  that  twice  during  the  portage 
I  lost  my  way;  twice  I  got  bogged  in  marshes  from 
which  I  extricated  myself  by  walking  over  slippery 
and  decayed  trunks  of  trees;  and  twice  I  reproached 


214     EXPLORATION-  OF  THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

myself  with  the  rashness  that  had  led  me  upon  such 
a  journey." 

The  six-mile  portage  which  has  proved  so  trying  to 
the  travelers  who  have  chosen  to  reach  Itasca  by  this 
route,  took  Nicollet  five  hours  to  cross,  bringing  him 
to  the  shore  of  the  lake  before  noon,  where  he  took  a 
barometrical  observation. 

Passing  down  the  southeast  arm  the  party  halted 
at  Schoolcraft  Island  and  pitched  tents,  while 
Nicollet  fixed  his  artificial  horizon  for  observations 
upon  the  stump  of  Schoolcraft's  flag-pole  raised  there 
four  years  before.  He  then  proceeded  to  explore  the 
lake,  noticing  the  creek  entering  the  southeast  arm  and 
others  entering  the  southwest  arm,  one  of  which — 
"Nicollet  Creek" — he  followed  to  its  source  in  a 
pond  which  at  that  time  was  connected  with  two 
lower  ponds  by  a  small  rivulet;  and  this  stream  he 
evidently  considered  the  source  of  the  Great  River. 
He  says  in  conclusion,  "After  having  devoted  three 
days  to  an  exploration  of  the  sources  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  spent  portions  of  the  nights  in  mak- 
ing astronomical  observations,  I  took  leave  of  Itasca 
Lake,  to  the  examination  of  which  the  expedition 
that  preceded  me  by  four  years  had  devoted  but  a 
short  time." 

Passing  out  of  Lake  Itasca  the  Indians  paddled 
briskly  enough  to  bring  the  party  to  Lake  Bemidji 
for  an  evening  encampment,  and  Nicollet,  entering 
upon  the  unbroken  sheet  of  water,  was  deeply 
impressed  by  its  solitary  beauty.  Cass  Lake  was 
reached  early  the  next  day,  and  three  hours  were 
spent  here  to  enable  Nicollet  to  make  his  astronom- 
ical observations;  but  hearing  the  warning  cry  of  the 
loon,  which  almost  invariably  presages  a  storm,  all 


(215) 


^16    EXPtokATiotf  op  m%  \jvvm  Mississippi. 

hurried  toward  Leech  Lake,  which  was  reached  at  ten 
o'clock  at  night. 

Nicollet  and  his  little  following  were  barely  under 
shelter  when  a  violent  storm  burst  upon  them.  Dur- 
ing their  absence,  Flat-Mouth  had  returned  from  the 
trading  posts,  whither  he  had  gone  for  ammunition, 
vowing  vengeance  against  the  Sioux  and  declaring  that 
the  stain  of  Chippewa  blood  had  been  long  enough  on 
his  grounds,  and  that  it  was  time  he  should  wipe  it  out, 
but  he  had  not  succeeded  in  getting  what  he  wanted 
and  was  therefore  disappointed.  He  did  not  forget, 
however,  the  courtesy  due  Nicollet  in  return  for  the 
ill-treatment  which  he  had  received  at  the  hands  of 
his  men,  and  accordingly  called  a  council  that  he 
might  show  his  white  brother  the  esteem  in  which 
he  was  held.  Nicollet  spent  three  evenings  with  this 
intelligent  Indian,  and  drank  tea  with  him  "out  of 
line  China  ware."  On  one  of  these  visits  he  showed 
his  host  a  rare  snuff-box,  ornamented  with  a  picture 
of  Napoleon  at  the  Island  of  Saint  Helena.  Flat- 
Mouth  examined  this  closely,  asked  many  questions 
about  the  white  chief,  and  said  with  eloquent  conceit: 
"  Well,  it  is  strange,  on  whatever  side  I  turn  it,  the 
figure  looks  at  me  and  seems  to  say,  * thou  art  my 
brother  warrior/" 

Having  gained  the  required  rest,  Nicollet  bade 
farewell  to  his  friend  Boutwell  and  to  his  Indian 
host,  and  began  the  descent  of  the  river,  deploring 
that  ill-health  and  lack  of  time  prevented  him  at  the 
various  points  from  inserting  additional  matter  con- 
cerning them  in  his  report,  which  he  believed  would 
be  interesting  to  the  general  reader.  This  ill-health 
really  obliged  him  to  leave  unfinished  much  of  his 
work,  and  prevented  him  from  revising  his  report, 


IKVESTlGAtiOXS  0£  HiCOLL£1\  211 

which  was  returned  to  him  for  that  purpose  while  he 
was  in  Washington.  He  never  recovered  his  strength, 
and  died  at  the  National  Capital  in  September,  1843. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  more  has  not  been  written 
concerning  the  life  and  works  of  this  scientist  and 
explorer,  and  that  an  edition  of  his  journals  has  not 
been  published  for  distribution  beyond  the  Bureau  of 
the  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers  at  Wash- 
ington. 

His  comprehensive  map  of  the  Hydrographical  Basin 
of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  while  it  is  not  complete,  in 
so  far  as  it  does  not  show  the  heart-shaped  lake  with 
its  feeders  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  is,  besides  this^ 
very  accurate  and  admirable.  In  fact,  it  gives 
Nicollet  a  distinct  and  conspicuous  place  among  the 
explorers  of  the  Mississippi;  not  because  he  saw  so 
much  more  than  those  who  had  preceded  him,  but 
because  he  gave  the  knowledge  of  what  he  saw  to  the 
world.  It  is  this  inclination,  often  followed  at  the 
expense  of  convenience  and  safety,  which  deserves 
appreciation. 


^i,m 


AGUMPSEOFTHEREDRIVER. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

EXPLOITS    OF    CHAKLES   LANMAN. 

HIS  adventurous  author  and  traveler 
published,  in  1847,  an  interesting  and 
somewhat  sensational  account  of  his 
journey  to,  and  wanderings  through 
the  wild  region  surrounding  the 
Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi. 
Leaving  the  city  of  Saint  Louis  in 
the  summer  of  1846,  with  a  party  of  excursionists,  in 
a  small  steamer  that  plied  between  that  city  and  the 
head  of  navigation  on  the  river,  he  jotted  down  in 
his  diary  everything  he  considered  worthy  of  note. 
He  had  set  out  with  the  design  of  reaching,  if  possi- 
ble, the  extreme  head  of  the  Mississippi,  by  whatever 
conveyance  he  could  secure  after  leaving  the  boat 
at  Saint  Peter — now  known  as  the  Minnesota  River. 
The  small  duodecimo,  in  which  the  traveler  records 
his  experiences,  is  full  of  personal  adventure  of  a 
rather  romantic  character;  traditions  picked  up  from 
loquacious  and  superstitious  Indians,  and  bits  of  local 
history,  are  tinged  by  a  lively  imagination. 

From  the  outset  of  his  novel  journey,  the  author 
gossips  pleasantly  with  his  readers  concerning  every 
point  passed  by  the  vessel,  but  his  descriptions  are 
out  of  date,  the  journey  having  been  made  over  fifty 
years  ago,  when  flourishing  cities  that  now  adorn  the 
river  banks,  were  mere  villages  or  collections  of  log 

(218) 


EXPLOITS  OF  CHARLES  LAtfMAN.  219 

huts,  some  having  no  existence  whatever  at  the 
time. 

Passing  Rock  Island  and  Prairie  du  Chien,  con- 
cerning both  of  which  the  traveler  gives  rein  to  an 
exuberant  fancy,  and  has  much  to  disclose  in  the 
shape  of  history  and  tradition,  he  discourses  with 
enthusiasm  upon  Lake  Pepin  "and  its  extraordinary 
natural  beauty.  Surrounded  by  undulating  hills 
covered  with  velvety  grass  to  their  summits,  and 
"  abounding  with  almost  every  variety  of  game,  the 
shores  of  the  lake  are  covered  with  the  most  valuable 
agates  and  carnelians/'  a  statement  which  will  be 
received  with  a  grain  of  allowance  in  the  present  day, 
however  true  it  may  have  been  a  half  century  ago. 
Legends  and  romantic  stories  succeed  each  other,  and 
are  intensely  interesting  if  they  are  not  all  strictly 
veracious.  But  the  author  gives  them  as  he  heard 
them  from  Indians  and  others,  and  himself  occasion- 
ally expresses  a  doubt  of  their  truth.  The  legend  of 
the  unfortunate  "  Winona  "  is  of  course  related,  but 
need  not  be  repeated  here. 

The  little  steamer  proceeded  on  her  course  up  the 
river,  passing  Eed  Wing,  "a  village  of  about  six 
hundred  souls;"  and  the  mouth  of  Saint  Peter  River 
was  at  length  reached — the  head  of  navigation  on  the 
Mississippi.  Landing  at  this  point  the  writer  says: 
"  My  sojourn  here  has  been  interesting  from  many 
circumstances.  I  feel  that  I  am  on  the  extreme  verge 
of  the  civilized  world,  and  that  all  beyond  is  a  myste- 
rious wilderness."  He  gives  an  account  of  an  encamp- 
ment of  Sioux  and  Dakota  Indians  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Saint  Peter,  at  one  of  whose  feasts  he  was  permit- 
ted to  be  present.  (e  It  was  announced  throughout  the 
village  that  the  Indians  were  to  have  a  Dog  Feast,  in 


£20      EXPLORATION  OF  THE   UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

which  none  but  the  bravest  and  most  distinguished 
warriors  were  allowed  to  participate.  The  idea  that 
lies  at  the  bottom  of  this  rite  is  that,  by  eating  of  a 
dog's  liver,  the  heart  is  made  strong.  The  feast  took 
place  on  the  open  prairie  and  was  attended  by  about 
one  hundred  braves,  while  there  must  have  been  a 
thousand  spectators.  The  first  step  in  the  ceremony 
was  for  the  Indians  to  seat  themselves  in  a  circle 
around  a  large  pole  and  devote  a  few  moments  to 
smoking.  Their  only  article  of  clothing  was  the 
clout,  and  their  only  weapon  a  long  knife. 

"  Suddenly  a  whoop  was  given  and  the  whole  party 
rose  and  commenced  dancing  to  the  monotonous 
music  of  a  drum.  Then  broke  upon  the  ear,  the 
howl,  and  in  a  moment  more,  the  dying  groan  of  a 
dog,  from  without  the  circle  of  dancers.  The  carcass 
was  thrown  into  their  midst  by  a  woman.  A  chorus 
of  deafening  yells  resounded  through  the  air,  the 
dog  was  immediately  opened,  his  liver  taken  out, 
suspended  on  the  pole  by  a  string,  and  the  dance 
resumed.  The  dancers  then,  one  after  another, 
stepped  up  and  took  a  bite  of  the  yet  warm  and  quiv- 
ering liver.  Soon  as  this  was  all  eaten,  another  dog 
was  thrown  into  the  ring,  and  the  same  horrible  cere- 
mony repeated;  and  so  they  continued  until  the 
carcasses  of  ten  dogs  were  lying  at  the  foot  of  the 
pole  in  the  center  of  the  dancing  crowd." 

Leaving  the  Saint  Peter,  Lanman  makes  his  way 
to  Saint  Anthony  Falls.  "  Their  original  name/' 
he  explains,  "was  Owah  Menah,  meaning  Falling 
Water,"  adding,  "they  owe  their  reputation  prin- 
cipally to  the  fact  that  they  f  veto  '  the  navigation  of 
the  Upper  Mississippi." 

Lanman  journeyed  from  the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony 


EXPLOITS   OF  CHARLES  LANMAN.  221 

to  Crow  Wing  River  on  horseback,  and,  as  usual,  met 
with  many  adventures  and  some  hair-breadth  escapes. 
He  was  accompanied  by  a  French-Canadian  as  guide. 
The  trail  lay  for  the  most  part  along  the  eastern  shore 
of  the  Great  River.  Their  supplies  consisted  of 
a  small  stock  of  bread  and  pork,  and  a  blanket, 
together  with  a  gun  each,  and  ammunition.  Deer, 
prairie-birds,  and  grouse  were  plentiful,  and  at  sun- 
set the  first  day  Lanman  had  fifty  prairie-birds  fast- 
ened to  his  saddle,  while  the  Frenchman  had  bagged 
a  fine  deer.  A  large  wolf  was  also  killed  by  a  shot 
from  the  guide,  and  its  skin  taken  by  him.  Shortly 
afterward  they  were  chased  by  a  herd  of  wolves, 
when  the  horses  took  fright,  became  unmanageable, 
and  ran  for  their  lives,  leaving  their  enemy  soon  out 
<*f  sight. 

Crow  Wing  was  at  length  reached,  which  the 
author  describes  as  a  beautiful  spot,  situated  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  mouth  of  a  river 
of  the  same  name.  Here  he  was  fortunate  in  meet- 
ing William  Morrison,  the  trader,  whose  "  reputation 
as  an  upright,  intelligent,  and  noble-hearted  man 
was  co-extensive  with  the  entire  wilderness  of  the 
Northwest."  Lanman  and  Morrison  became  very 
friendly.  The  latter  was  a  Scotchman  by  birth  and 
at  the  time  of  meeting  Lanman  was  somewhat 
advanced  in  life.  He  had  resided  in  the  Indian 
country  about  thirty-five  years,  and  is  eulogized  by 
the  author  as  possessing  "all  the  virtues  of  the 
trader,  and  none  of  his  vices."  His  wife  was  an 
Indian  and  had  borne  him  a  number  of  bright  chil- 
dren. He  was  much  liked  by  the  Chippewas,  to 
whom  he  was  always  a  good  friend  and  counselor. 
Lanman  spent  ten  days  with  him — "  the  most  delight- 


(222) 


EXPLOITS  OF  CHARLES   LANMAtf.  223 

ful  days  I  ever  experienced."  Morrison  undertook  to 
act  as  his  guide  for  a  time,  and  together  they  wan- 
dered over  the  region  of  Northern  Minnesota. 

Among  other  tales  of  this  locality  told  by  Lanman 
is  the  following:  "  A  famous  battle  was  once  fought 
here  between  the  Sioux  and  Chippewas.  A  party  of 
the  former  had  gone  up  Crow  Wing  Eiver  for  the  pur- 
pose of  destroying  a  certain  Chippewa  village.  They 
found  it  inhabited  only  by  women  and  children, 
every  one  of  whom  they  murdered  in  cold  blood,  and 
burned  their  wigwams.  It  so  happened  that  the 
Chippewa  warriors  had  been  expecting  an  attack,  and 
had  consequently  hidden  themselves  in  deep  holes  on 
a  high  bank  of  the  river  at  Crow  Wing,  intending  to 
fall  upon  the  Sioux  party  on  their  way  up  the  river. 
But  they  were  sadly  disappointed.  While  watching 
for  their  enemy  they  were  suddenly  startled  by  a  tri- 
umphant shout  that  floated  down  the  stream.  In 
great  surprise  they  looked,  when  lo!  the  very  party 
that  they  came  after  were  in  full  view,  shouting  and 
tossing  up  the  scalps  of  the  women  and  children. 
The  Chippewas  remained  in  ambush  for  a  few  min- 
utes, and  when  the  Sioux  came  within  reach  of  their 
arms  every  one  of  them  was  killed,  while  their  canoes, 
plunder,  and  bodies  were  suffered  to  float  down  the 
stream/'  And  the  narrator  adds,  "the  pall  of  night 
rested  upon  the  hills,  the  glens,  the  waveless  river, 
and  the  Chippewa  camp." 

Many  legends  are  associated  with  Crow  Wing, 
among  them  the  following  about  a  white  panther, 
which  was  religiously  believed  by  the  Chippewas. 
The  panther  in  question  was  the  prophet  or  oracle  of 
a  certain  Chippewa  tribe  and  possessed  the  gift  of 
speech.     Lanman  in  all  seriousness  proceeds  as  fol- 


224      EXPLORATION   OP  THE   UPPER   MISSISSIPPI. 

lows:  "A  young  Chippewa  brave  was  anxious  to 
avenge  the  death  of  a  brother,  and  sought  the  ora- 
cle to  learn  the  success  of  his  projected  expedition. 
The  panther  told  him  that  he  must  not  go;  but  the 
young  man  heeded  him  not,  and,  heading  his  party, 
went.  Every  one  of  his  followers  was  killed,  himself 
escaping  by  the  merest  accident.  Thinking  that  the 
white  panther  had  in  some  way  caused  the  calamity, 
he  recklessly  stole  upon  the  creature  in  the  darkness 
of  midnight  and  slaughtered  it.  The  dying  words  of 
the  oracle  were :  (  Cruel  and  unhappy  warrior,  I 
doom  thee  to  walk  the  earth  forever  a  starving  and 
undying  skeleton/  The  Chippewas  say  that  the 
specter,  whenever  the  moon  is  tinged  with  red  or  the 
aurora  borealis  floods  the  sky  with  purple,  may  be 
seen  flitting  along  the  banks  of  Mee-see-see-pee." 

Crow  Wing  was  at  the  time  of  Lanman's  visit  the 
home  of  the  head  chief  of  the  Chippewa  nation  named 
Hole-in- the- day.  Our  traveler  visited  him  in  his 
lodge  frequently,  and  describes  him  as  about  sixty 
years  of  age,  i(  stern  and  brave,  but  mean,  vain, 
treacherous,  and  cruel."  In  proof  of  his  treachery 
and  cruelty  the  following  incident  is  related  as  a  fact: 
"  He  and  some  six  warriors  while  on  a  hunting  tour, 
were  hospitably  entertained  in  a  Sioux  lodge,  where 
resided  a  family  of  seventeen  persons.  The  two 
nations  were  at  peace,  and  for  a  time  their  intercourse 
had  been  perfectly  friendly.  On  leaving  his  host, 
Hole-in-the-day  shook  him  cordially  by  the  hand, 
with  a  smile  upon  his  countenance,  and  departed. 
At  midnight,  when  the  Sioux  family  were  wrapped 
in  peaceful  slumber,  Hole-in-the-day  and  his  men 
retraced  their  steps,  and,  without  any  provocation, 
fell  upon  the  sleeping  family  and  cruelly  murdered 


EXPLOITS  OF  CHARLES  LAHMAX.  225 

every  member,  even  the  lisping  babe."  Hole-in- the- 
day  told  this  story  of  himself  to  Lanman,  and 
boasted  of  it  as  of  something  creditable! 

The  Indian  trader  fifty  years  ago  was  the  patriarch 
and  counselor  of  the  wilderness.  As  the  agent  of 
some  fur  company,  his  business  was  to  trade  with  the 
Indians  for  their  furs  and  pelts.  He  was  generally 
of  French  descent,  and  his  ancestors  were  traders. 
He  was,  of  course,  a  native  of  the  wild  region  he 
inhabited — raised  in  utter  ignorance  of  civilized  life. 
His  nearest  white  neighbor,  also  a  trader,  would 
possibly  be  two  hundred  miles  away.  His  dwelling 
was  built  of  logs  and  contained  one  large  room  and 
a  loft.  His  merchandise  was  composed  chiefly  of 
salt  pork,  flour,  blankets,  colored  cloth,  and  various 
kinds  of  trinkets.  His  family  consisted  of  an  Indian 
wife  and  several  half-breed  children.  Adjoining  the 
trader's  home  was  about  one  acre  of  ploughed  ground 
on  which  he  raised  a  few  vegetables;  and  a  solitary 
cow  yielded  him  the  only  luxury  he  enjoyed. 

On  his  way  up  the  Mississippi,  Lanman  came  to 
Lake  Winnibegoshish.  The  river  he  found  so  wind- 
ing that  in  some  cases,  by  making  a  portage  of  about 
fifteen  rods,  he  saved  three  or  four  miles  of  canoeing. 
The  stream  averaged  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
breadth,  and  flowed  rapidly  over  a  rocky  bed.  Lake 
Winnibegoshish  is  fifteen  miles  in  length  and  about 
ten  miles  in  width.  It  is  nearly  round,  has  no 
islands,  and  is  surrounded  with  a  gravelly  beach. 
The  water  is  clear  but  shallow.  The  surrounding 
country  is  a  dead  level,  covered  with  trees,  inter- 
spersed with  lakes  and  rice  swamps,  where  immense 
numbers  of  water-fowl  have  lived  and  multiplied  for 
centuries. 

15 


226      EXPLORATION   OF  THE   UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

u  The  only  inhabitants  found  on  the  shores  of 
Winnibegoshish,"  says  the  traveler,  "were  three 
bands  of  Chippewas,  numbering  in  all  about  three 
thousand  souls.  *  *  *  Immediately  on  my  arrival 
I  heard  something  about  a  contemplated  bear  hunt. 
A  number  had  already  been  killed,  and  there  was  a 
fording  place  on  the  Mississippi,  not  far  away,  where 
a  good  marksman  might  take  one  at  almost  any  time. 
A  present  of  tobacco  soon  initiated  me  into  the  good 
graces  of  the  party  of  hunters,  and  I  was  allowed 
to  accompany  them.  We  started  at  sunset  and 
descended  the  river  in  a  canoe  to  the  crossing,  where 
we  concealed  ourselves  in  a  recess  of  the  forest,  seated 
on  a  rock  that  commanded  an  opening  between  the 
trees.  It  was  quite  dark,  as  there  was  no  moon. 
Here  we  spent  an  hour  in  perfect  silence.  Finally, 
one  of  the  Indians  tapped  me  on  the  shoulder  and 
pointed  to  a  large  black  object  which  I  soon  saw  was 
a  bear  just  wading  into  the  water.  Bruin  took  it 
quite  leisurely,  as  is  his  wont,  little  dreaming  that  an 
enemy  was  so  near.  Just  as  his  feet  touched  the 
bottom  of  the  stream,  the  Indian  gave  me  a  nod,  and 
raising  our  guns  simultaneously,  three  of  us  fired  at 
the  animal,  striking  him  in  a  vulnerable  spot.  We 
soon  shipped  him  on  board  our  canoe  and  paddled 
back  to  the  village.  Morrison  estimated  his  weight 
to  be  about  three  hundred  pounds." 

Eed  Cedar  Lake,  since  named  Cass  Lake  by  School- 
craft in  honor  of  General  Cass,  the  Territorial  Gov- 
ernor of  Michigan,  was  reached  in  a  few  days.  It 
derived  its  original  name,  in  Indian,  from  the  tree 
that  mostly  abounds  upon  its  shores.  In  the  center 
of  the  lake  is  a  large  island  and  several  small  islands 
occupy  other  portions  of  the  lake.    The  entire  region 


EXPLOITS  OF  CHARLES  LAKMAK.  227 

watered  by  the  unnumbered  lakes  of  the  Upper  Mis- 
sissippi, was  formerly  inhabited  by  the  Chippewa 
nation.  The  hospitality  of  the  tribes  was  proverbial 
in  times  past,  ere  they  came  to  know  the  whites  too 
well  and  to  taste  of  their  "fire  water."  When  a 
stranger  entered  their  cabin,  he  was  invited  to  a  seat 
on  their  best  mat,  and  always  treated  with  the  very 
best  they  possessed  in  the  way  of  food.  If  a  chief 
was  visited  at  an  untimely  hour — at  midnight,  for 
example — he  would  arise,  stir  up  his  fire,  and  give 
the  intruder  a  pipe  with  the  air  of  a  gentleman.  If 
called  upon  when  the  caller  knew  the  chief  had 
reason  to  consider  him  an  enemy,  he  would  not  tell 
the  caller  to  leave  his  wigwam,  but  possibly  in  an 
unguarded  moment,  in  the  latter's  own  wigwam,  he 
would  cleave  his  skull  with  a  tomahawk.  They  were 
very  affectionate  to  their  wives  and  children.  When 
a  party  of  them  were  in  a  state  of  starvation,  and 
one  individual  happened  to  have  a  bear  or  deer,  the 
latter  would  distribute  it  equally  at  a  feast,  and  they 
would  never  refuse  to  present  to  a  brother  Chippewa, 
or  white  man  whom  they  esteemed,  any  pipe,  weapon, 
or  ornament  that  may  have  been  solicited.  They 
still  treat  their  infirm  people  with  tender  care.  As  the 
Chippewa  Country  was  mostly  covered  with  a  dense 
forest,  the  people  were  unacquainted  with  the  use  of 
the  horse.  Their  mode  of  hunting  the  buffalo  was 
to  drive  them  over  bluffs,  or  shoot  them  while  dis- 
guised in  the  skin  of  a  wolf  or  buffalo.  Their  only 
vehicle  for  locomotion  and  transport  was  the  birchen 
canoe.  The  bark  of  the  birch  tree,  out  of  which  it 
was  made,  is  still  found  in  abundance  throughout  the 
entire  territory,  and  they  used  it,  not  only  for  canoes, 
but  for  their  lodges,  their  grave-houses,  their  baskets, 


228      EXPLORATION-   OF  THE   UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

their  dishes,  and  exquisitely  worked  boxes  which  they 
disposed  of  as  curiosities. 

In  the  month  of  July,  1846,  Lanman  entered  Lake 
Itasca  and  described  it  as  a  small  sheet  of  water 
about  five  miles  long  and  one  to  two  miles  wide,  con- 
taining only  one  island.  Its  Indian  name  was 
Omushhos.  He  followed  Schoolcraft  in  pronouncing 
this  lake  the  head  of  the  Mississippi.  This  is  easily 
understood  in  the  light  of  my  discovery  of  1881. 
Neither  Schoolcraft  or  Lanman  had  visited,  or  sus- 
pected the  existence  of  the  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
to  the  south  of  Itasca,  effectually  screened  from  view 
by  the  high  ridge  which  separates  the  two  lakes. 
Schoolcraft  did  not  see  it  for  reasons  I  shall  present 
in  a  future  chapter,  and  Lanman  makes  no  allusion 
to  it.  To  the  south  of  Itasca  is  the  ridge  or  eleva- 
tion of  wood-crowned  hills.  The  whole  region  to 
the  north  of  Itasca  he  correctly  describes  as  woody, 
low,  and  marshy.  The  trees  are  pine,  oak,  elm,  maple, 
birch,  poplar,  jack-pine,  and  tamarack.  The  region 
around  this  lake  was  formerly  famous  for  the  num- 
ber of  its  wild  animals,  and  Itasca  derived  its  name 
Omushhos,  by  which  it  is  still  known  to  the  Indians, 
from  a  monstrous  elk — the  English  of  Omushhos — 
"  which,  according  to  the  legend,  measured  the 
length  of  two  canoes,  and  with  his  horns  could  split 
a  pine  tree." 

It  may  be  stated  that  Lanman  is  not  considered  a 
reliable  authority  in  matters  relating  to  the  Upper 
Mississippi  and  its  neighboring  territory.  He  was  not 
in  a  strict  sense  an  explorer,  nor  does  lie  claim  to  have 
been  such.  His  journey  appears  to  have  been  under- 
taken chiefly  for  the  gratification  of  a  commendable 
curiosity.     In  1846,  the  year  of  his  romantic  journey, 


EXPLOITS   OF   CHAKLES  LANMAN. 


229 


the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi,  above  the  Falls  of  Saint 
Anthony,  was  known  only  to  Indian  traders,  mostly 
of  French  origin,  and  probably  to  one  or  two  specu- 
lative and  intrepid  travelers  prospecting  for  the  use- 
ful and  precious  metals.  Lanman  does  not  pretend 
to  have  discovered  anything.  Had  he  given  more 
attention  to  exploration,  he  might  have  made  an 
important  addition  to  our  geographical  knowledge 
while  canoeing  on  the  southwestern  arm  of  Itasca, 
and  thus  have  forestalled  the  author  of  the  present 
volume.  Lanman's  experiences  are  interesting  mainly 
from  the  many  Indian  traditions  he  recounts,  and 
his  descriptions  of  regions  and  scenery  but  little 
known  even  in  the  present  day. 


BEAR*  HUNTING 


PART    THIRD. 


:o: 


DISCOVERY 

OF   THE 


:(>:- 


SUBJECTS: 

Chapter  Page 

I.  EARLY  AND  RECENT  EXPLORATION...  233 

II.    JOURNEY  TO  MINNESOTA 237 

III.  WINONA  TO  MINNEAPOLIS 246 

IV.  EARLY  HISTORY   OF  MINNESOTA 257 

V.    THE   "TWIN  CITIES" 265 

VI.  PREPARATION  FOR  SECOND  EXPEDITION  297 

VII.    MINNEAPOLIS  TO  PARK  RAPIDS 315 

VIII.     THROUGH  THE  WILDERNESS 326 

IX.    HEADWATERS  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI 339 

X.    JOURNAL  OF  THE  EXPEDITION 354 

XI.     RETURN  TO   MINNEAPOLIS 381 

XII.    INDORSEMENT  AND   CONCLUSION 396 


175 
ZAKE 
,lt»i*         -R.         HEM1DJ1 


LAKE 
WINXIBEG0S1IISH 


^j.  Tokegama  Falls 


3     XaTct  Garfield 


LAKE  GLAZIER  4(/ 

SOURCE  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI 

XocateO  July  22, 1881. 


MAP    OF 

The  Upper  Mississippi 

Willard  Glazier,  1881. 


«.,    MC  N.  4   CO.,ENG'S 


(233) 


CHAPTER   I. 


RECENT   EXPLORATIONS. 


•  OR  nearly  fifty  years  prior  to  1881,  it 
had  been  generally  accepted  as  estab- 
lished beyond  question  that  the  ulti- 
mate Source  of  the  Mississippi  was 
in  Lake  Itasca,  Northern  Minnesota. 
Henry  Rowe  Schoolcraft,  geologist 
of  the  Cass  expedition  and  leader  of 
a  subsequent  exploring  party,  had 
announced  to  the  world  his  discovery  of  this  lake  in 
the  year  1832,  and  pronounced  it  the  True  Head  of 
the  Great  River. 

Geographers,  map-makers,  educational  publishers, 
college  faculties,  and  teachers,  invariably  published 
and  taught  that  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  was  in 
the  lake  thus  designated  by  Schoolcraft.  A  few, 
however,  pioneers  and  others,  who  had  come  in  con- 
tact with  Indians  on  the  Chippewa  Reservation, 
stoutly  denied  the  claim  of  Itasca  to  the  distinction 
given  it  by  its  discoverer;  this  fact,  coupled  with  an 
eager  desire  to  ascertain  the  truth  or  error  of  School- 
craft, led  me  to  organize  an  expedition  having  for  its 
object  the  possible  settlement  of  the  mooted  ques- 
tion. That  expedition  resulted  in  locating  a  hitherto 
unrecognized  lake  to  the   south  of  Itasca,  as  the 

(233) 


234  DISCOVERY   OF  THE   TKUE  SOURCE. 

Primal  Reservoir,  on  the  twenty-second  of  July, 
1881. 

The  discovery  that  a  lake  of  fair  proportions  above 
and  beyond  Itasca  was  the  True  Source  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi was  followed  by  an  attempt  to  discredit  the 
validity  of  my  published  statements,  and  misrepresen- 
tations were  made  which  rendered  it  expedient  in  the 
estimation  of  my  friends,  that  further  investigation 
should  be  undertaken  in  that  quarter  and  that  I  should 
resume  the  pen  in  defense  of  the  truth  of  my  position. 

No  sooner  had  I  announced  a  new  source  for  the 
Mississippi  than  several  critics  jumped  to  their  feet 
and  declared  that  there  was  nothing  beyond  Itasca 
worthy  of  the  slightest  consideration.  When,  how- 
ever, I  had  proved  most  conclusively  that  that  lake 
was  not  the  remotest  water,  some  of  my  opponents 
rather  reluctantly  granted  that  there  might  possibly 
be  a  few  ponds  and  puddles  in  that  vicinity,  but,  if 
so,  they  were  of  little  consequence,  else  the  early 
explorers  would  have  given  them  due  prominence  in 
the  accounts  of  their  explorations. 

Having  made  it  entirely  clear  to  most  geographers 
that  there  was  such  a  lake  as  I  had  described,  and 
that  it  was .  a  direct  and  permanent  feeder  of  Lake 
Itasca,  it  was  now  asserted  by  a  few  cavilers  that  it 
had  been  previously  seen  and  that  even  if  it  were 
accepted  as  the  source,  I  was  entitled  to  but  little  credit 
for  establishing  its  true  relation  to  the  Mississippi. 

Again,  it  was  the  argument  of  certain  parties  who 
imagined  that  they  had  interests  inimical  to  mine, 
that  the  explorations  of  the  eminent  French  scientist, 
Nicollet,  which  tended  largely  to  confirm  Schoolcraft, 
were  conducted  during  the  (i  dry  season,"  and,  not- 
withstanding that  the  lake  which  I  had  fixed  upon 


RECENT   EXPLORATIONS.  235 

in  July  was  between  fixe  and  six  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence and  covered  an  area  of  two  hundred  and  fifty- 
five  acres,  with  an  average  depth  of  forty-five  feet,  its 
basin  may  not  have  exhibited  water  during  the  month 
of  August  when  the  region  was  visited  by  the  distin- 
guished Frenchman  in  1836. 

Finally,  on  learning  that  the  lake  in  question  was 
being  almost  universally  adopted,  one  or  two  exceed- 
ingly zealous  partisans  feeling,  I  presume,  that  they 
had  a  "mission,"  or  rather  that  they  were  called 
upon,  to  investigate  my  explorations,  sent  out  what 
they  were  pleased  to  denominate  "expeditions"  to 
examine  and  report  upon  their  findings  in  the  locality 
undei  discussion.  The  first  of  the  so-called  expedi- 
tions visited  the  Head  of  the  Mississippi  in  October 
1886,  and  is  alleged  to  have  consisted  of  three  persons 
although  the  name  of  but  one  appeared  in  the  report. 
A  subsequent  expedition  took  place  in  the  summer 
and  autumn  of  1889,  and  was,  to  say  the  least,  con- 
spicuous for  its  contradictions. 

Although  the  leaders  of  both  of  these  investigating 
parties  were  pleased  to  denounce  me  in  unmeasured 
terms,  their  own  reports  were  very  conflicting;  one 
of  them  even  going  so  far  as  to  pluck  the  laurel  from 
the  brow  of  Schoolcraft  in  order  that  he  might 
bestow  it  upon  his  greater  favorite,  Mcollet,  while 
the  other  was  for  a  long  time  in  doubt  as  to  the 
propriety  of  deciding  between  a  pond,  a  puddle,  a 
rivulet,  or  spring.  The  investigations  of  this 
" enterprising"  explorer  culminated  in  his  fixing 
upon  two  lakes  having  no  surface  connection  with 
Lake  Itasca  or  the  Mississippi,  as  the  Fountain- 
headw  A  very  notable  feature  of  their  various 
u  modest "  reports  was  that  they  were  made  in  the 


236 


DISCOVERY   OF  THE  TRUE    SOURCE. 


interest  of  their  employers,  and  were  filled  with 
vulgar  abuse  of  everyone  connected  with  the  expedi- 
tion of  1881. 

The  antagonism  thus  developed  by  an  honest 
attempt  to  establish  a  geographical  truth,  together 
with  the  fact  that,  even  at  this  late  day,  some  of  our 
leading  educators  still  believe  in  the  error  of  Lake 
Itasca,  led  me  to  decide  upon  another  visit  to  the 
Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  for  the  purpose  of 
making  a  most  thorough  investigation,  in  an  earnest 
effort  to  settle  the  vexed  question  which  had  occupied 
the  attention  of  geographers  for  over  ten  years. 


SFRJoTfKG  RAPIDS. 


CHAPTER  II. 


JOURNEY  TO   MINNESOTA. 

ETERMINED  upon  a  second  expe- 
dition to  the  Headwaters  of  the 
Mississippi,  I  immediately  began 
preparations  for  the  accomplish- 
ment of  my  purpose  while  at 
Milwaukee,  Wisconsin,  during  the 
month  of  May,  1891,  just  ten  years 
after  starting  from  Cleveland,  Ohio, 
on  my  first  journey  to  that  region. 

Wishing  to  reach  Northern  Minnesota  as  early  as 
practicable,  I  left  Milwaukee  on  the  fourteenth  of 
July,  accompanied  by  Pearce  Giles  of  Camden,  New 
Jersey,  who  assisted  in  the  organization  of  my  former 
expedition,  and  who  has  since  been  an  earnest 
advocate  of  my  position  in  relation  to  the  Source  of 
the  Mississippi. 

We  availed  ourselves  of  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee 
and  Saint  Paul  Railway  in  our  tour  across  Wisconsin. 
The  season  and  route  fixed  upon  for  our  trip  were 
such  as  to  present  the  charming  scenery  and  rich 
products  of  its  soil  to  the  best  possible  advantage. 
Many  and  wonderful  are  the  changes  which  have 
taken  place  in  the  picturesque  region  which  lies 
between  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Mississippi  since  the 
zealous  Jesuit  missionary,  Father  James  Marquette, 
paddled  his  birch  canoe  down  the  beautiful  river  from 
which  the  State  derives  its  name. 

(237) 


238  DISCOVERY   OE  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

Although  a  slight  digression,  it  may  not  be  entirely 
foreign  to  our  purpose,  or  uninteresting  to  the  reader, 
if  we  briefly  note  the  transformation  which  two  hun- 
dred years  have  wrought  in  this  rich  and  populous 
section  of  our  Great  Republic;  for  it  was  through 
the  rivers  of  Wisconsin  that  not  only  Marquette  and 
Joliet,  but  also  their  immediate  successors,  La  Salle, 
Hennepin,  La  Hontan,  Charlevoix,  and  Carver,  found 
their  way  to  the  Father  of  Waters. 

It  is  hardly  probable  that  the  old  explorers,  even 
in  their  most  sanguine  moments,  ever  dreamed  of  the 
brilliant  future  which  awaited  the  field  of  their 
explorations.  Then,  all  of  the  vast  tract  of  country 
through  which  they  passed  was  an  unbroken  wilder- 
ness. Now,  its  productive  farms,  its  factories,  rail- 
ways, and  above  all  the  schools  and  churches,  mark 
its  development  and  tell  the  story  of  onward  strides 
in  progress  and  civilization. 

An  hour's  ride  from  Milwaukee  brought  us  to 
Waukesha,  a  delightful  summer  resort,  sometimes 
styled  the  Saratoga  of  the  West.  It  is  the  capital  of 
Waukesha  County,  and  is  noted  for  the  efficacy  of  its 
mineral  springs.  This  beautiful  village  is  situated 
on  the  Fox  River,  twenty-one  miles  southwest  of 
Milwaukee,  in  one  of  the  most  fertile  valleys  of  the 
State,  and  has  many  attractions  aside  from  the  health- 
giving  properties  of  its  famous  springs. 

Leaving  Waukesha,  our  journey  led  us  through 
several  villages  to  Watertown  on  the  Black  River, 
forty-three  miles  west  of  Milwaukee.  This  quiet 
little  city  is  the  center  of  one  of  the  richest  agri- 
cultural sections  of  Wisconsin;  it  is  located  on  both 
sides  of  the  river  in  Dodge  and  Jefferson  counties,  in 
a  valley  from  which  gentle  hills  rise  on  every  side. 


JOURNEY  TO  MINNESOTA.  239 

It  is  reputed  to  have  six  public  schools,  two  colleges, 
fifteen  churches,  three  national  banks,  and  four 
weekly  papers.  The  river  affords  abundant  water- 
power,  and  several  mills  and  factories  were  observed 
as  we  passed  through  the  city.  The  growth  of  Water- 
town  has  been  comparatively  slow,  its  population 
having  increased  but  little  over  eight  thousand  in  the 
course  of  twenty  years. 

Our  route  from  Watertown  was  northwesterly  to 
Portage,  which  is  picturesquely  situated  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  Wisconsin  River,  eighty-three 
miles  from  Milwaukee.  This  section  of  the  State  was 
for  many  years  celebrated  for  its  extensive  pine  forests, 
but  they  have  long  since  yielded  to  the  axe  of  the 
lumberman,  and  Portage  now  has  graded  schools, 
daily  and  weekly  papers,  and  a  flourishing  trade  with 
the  surrounding  country,  which  was  not  more  famous 
in  the  past  for  its  lumber  than  it  is  to-day  for  the 
rich  products  of  the  farm. 

From  Portage  we  proceeded  up  the  Wisconsin  to 
Kilbourn  City,  passing  through  a  portion  of  the 
"  Dalles/'  which  enjoy  a  deservedly  world-wide  repu- 
tation for  their  scenic  attractions.  America  has  a 
great  variety  of  grand  and  beautiful  scenery,  possibly 
excelling  in  this  particular  all  other  countries  of  the 
globe,  and  I  have  seen  nothing  anywhere  so  near  to 
civilized  lines  that  surpasses  the  Dalles  of  the  Wis- 
consin River.  Here  the  largest  stream  in  the  State 
flows  through  a  wild  gorge  for  a  distance  of  nearly 
ten  miles,  so  nariow  in  many  places  that  there  is  just 
room  for  a  small  steamer  to  pass.  The  place  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  cluster  of  beautiful  lakes,  and  the  land- 
scape resulting  from  such  a  hgppy  combination  of 
rural  attractions  is  picturesque  and  enchanting. 


Ts.HV'W'V 


DALLES   OF   THE    WISCONSIN. 
(340) 


JOUKNEY  TO   MINNESOTA.  241 

Kegretting  that  a  sojourn  at  the  Dalles  was 
incompatible  with  the  chief  objects  of  our  journey, 
we  rolled  on  toward  our  evening  destination,  reach- 
ing the  bluffs  which  overlook  the  Mississippi  at 
La  Crosse,  a  few  minutes  after  five  o'clock. 

Although  I  have  often  seen  the  Great  Kiver  during 
the  past  twenty  years  and  stood  upon  its  banks  many 
times  since  my  canoe  voyage  of  1881,  I  could  not,  on 
viewing  it  again,  readily  repress  emotions  of  affection 
for  the  mighty  stream  which  has  for  so  long  a  period 
occupied  a  large  share  of  my  time  and  attention. 
Who  among  reflective  travelers  will  think  it  strange 
that  long  association,  even  with  a  river,  may  not 
sometimes  lead  to  a  sentiment  very  nearly  akin  to 
love?  Who  that  has  traced  the  tortuous  course  of 
any  of  the  great  streams  of  Earth,  from  source  to 
sea,  will  wonder  at  the  deep  and  tender  regard  which 
I  always  feel  when  looking  upon  this  King  of  American 
rivers? 

Thousands  upon  thousands  of  logs,  numerous  saw- 
mills, and  acres  of  lumber  yards,  betokened  our 
proximity  to  La  Crosse,  the  second  city  of  Wisconsin 
and  one  of  the  most  enterprising  in  the  Valley  of  the 
Mississippi. 

During  my  descent  of  the  river  ten  years  ago,  I 
halted  three  days  at  La  Crosse,  at  which  time  I  learned 
something  of  its  early  history  and  development. 

The  name  of  this  ambitious  young  city  is  said  to  be 
derived  from  the  invigorating  game  of  "La  Crosse," 
the  favorite  sport  of  the  Indians,  who  were  wont  to 
assemble  for  this  purpose  on  the  level  prairie  upon 
which  the  city  now  stands.  To  indulge  in  their 
athletic  matches,  it  is  recorded,  that  they  gathered 
here  in  large  numbers  annually,  the  plain  being  con- 


242  DISCOVERY   OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

veniently  adapted  to  the  accommodation  of  the 
various  tribes  who  desired  to  see  and  participate  in 
the  sport.  Nathan  Myrick,  the  first  white  settler, 
became  such  an  enthusiastic  admirer  of  the  exciting 
game  that  he  named  the  spot,  on  which  his  solitary 
cabin  was  built,  La  Crosse,  and  thus  the  name  of  the 
aboriginal  sport  became  perpetuated  in  that  of  the 
city. 

La  Crosse  claims,  and  with  good  grace,  to  be  the 
second  city  in  commercial  and  manufacturing 
importance  in  the  State  of  Wisconsin.  The  prairie 
on  which  it  is  built  is  seven  miles  in  length  by  two 
and  a  half  in  breadth.  Its  distance  below  Saint  Paul 
by  the  river,  is  one  hundred  and  ninety-seven  miles; 
while  by  railway  it  is  only  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
nine  miles  from  the  same  city. 

The  Black  and  La  Crosse  rivers  fall  into  the  Missis- 
sippi at  this  point,  the  former  being  a  most  important 
lumbering  stream. 

The  growth  of  La  Crosse  is  in  keeping  with  the 
development  of  the  Northwest.  Myrick,  the  first 
settler,  landed  here  in  November,  1841,  with  a  boat- 
load of  goods  and  notions  from  Prairie  du  Chien, 
which  he  traded  with  the  red  men  for  their  furs.  In 
the  course  of  ten  years  the  trading-post  established  by 
him,  had  drawn  other  settlers  to  it,  and  it  became  an 
incorporated  town.  Five  years  later,  in  1856,  it  had 
attained  sufficient  size  and  importance  to  be  made  a 
city.  To-day  it  has  a  population  of  over  thirty 
thousand  of  as  industrious  and  prosperous  citizens  as 
are  to  be  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Great  Kiver. 

The  geographical  location  of  La  Crosse  is  doubtless 
one  of  the  chief  secrets  of  its  rapid  progress  and 
present  flourishing  condition.     The  products  of  one 


JOURNEY  TO   MINNESOTA.  243 

of  the  leading  agricultural  States  of  the  Union., 
together  with  a  portion  of  the  vast  supplies  which 
reach  its  shores  from  Minnesota  and  Northern  Iowa, 
give  to  the  city  immense  advantages,  occupying,  as  it 
does,  a  commanding  position  on  the  river  for  attract- 
ing commercial  relations  with  its  sister  cities.  In 
addition  to  the  facilities  offered  for  transportation  by 
numerous  water  lines,  La  Crosse  has  access  to  several 
railways  which  center  here.  The  Mississippi  and  its 
tributaries  embrace  over  sixteen  thousand  miles  of 
navigable  water;  the  former  alone  presenting  a 
stretch  of  nearly  two  thousand  miles  of  uninter- 
rupted navigation,  affording  the  cheapest  kind  of 
transportation,  of  the  benefits  of  which  La  Crosse 
avails  herself  to  a  very  large  extent,  and  to  this 
advantage  is  mainly  due  her  growth  in  population 
and  wealth. 

The  commerce  and  manufactures  of  a  city  depend, 
in  a  great  measure,  upon  the  resources  of  the  State 
in  which  it  is  situated.  Wisconsin  is  one  of  our 
richest  agricultural  States.  It  is  larger  than  New 
York,  Rhode  Island,  and  Connecticut  combined,  and 
•in  the  fertility  of  its  soil  is  second  to  none.  A  con- 
siderable percentage  of  the  wheat  crop  of  the  United 
States  is  grown  in  this  province.  Its  immense  corn- 
fields, comprising  several  millions  of  acres,  are 
another  source  of  wealth;  while  the  hay-producing 
area  is  double  that  of  Iowa.  Twenty-five  million 
pounds  of  butter  and  twenty  million  pounds  of  cheese 
are  manufactured  annually  in  Wisconsin,  most  of 
which  is  shipped  to  Eastern  and  European  markets. 
The  soil  and  climate  of  this  State  are  especially 
favorable  to  the  growth  of  the  potato.  Flax  rais- 
ing is  also  a  leading  industry,  the  yield  being  over 


244  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

thirty  million  pounds  a  year.  Thus  in  agricultural 
resources  the  "  Badger  "  State  possesses  every  advan- 
tage for  developing  great  commercial  and  manu- 
facturing cities,  and  the  favorable  position  of  La 
Crosse  eminently  fits  her  for  reaping  the  full  benefit 
of  the  conditions  so  generously  provided. 

After  a  halt  of  twenty  minutes  for  connections 
and  refreshments,  we  steamed  out  of  La  Crosse  and 
were  soon  wending  our  way  over  the  railway  bridge 
which  spans  the  Mississippi  at  this  point. 

Having  reached  the  Minnesota  side  of  the  river, 
we  rushed  along  toward  "Winona,  our  evening  desti- 
nation, where  we  had  supper  and  remained  for  the 
night.  The  following  morning  a  few  hours  were  pleas- 
antly and  profitably  spent  in  a  stroll  through  the 
leading  streets  of  the  city,  during  which  we  called 
at  the  office  of  the  Rejmblican  in  anticipation  of 
meeting  its  editor,  Hon.  D.  Sinclair,  who,  we 
regretted  to  learn,  was  then  out  of  town  attending 
an  editorial  convention  at  Saint  Paul.  Mr.  Sinclair 
was  an  early  pioneer  of  Minnesota,  and,  in  addition 
to  conducting  one  of  the  first  journals  of  the  State, 
was  at  this  time  postmaster  and  prominently  men- 
tioned as  a  candidate  for  the  mayoralty.  He  has 
for  several  years  past  shown  much  interest  in  the 
controversy  relating  to  the  True  Source  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  the  columns  of  his  paper  have  ever  been 
open  to  those  who  are  disposed  to  discuss  without 
prejudice  the  geographical  question  which,  since 
1881,  has  been  of  more  than  local  interest. 

The  growth  of  Winona  since  my  former  visit  has 
been  gradual  and  substantial.  Several  new  public 
buildings  were  noted  in  various  parts  of  the  city  of 
which  her  intelligent  citizens  are  justly  proud. 


JOURNEY  TO   MINNESOTA.  245 

In  its  location  and  surroundings,  Winona  is 
extremely  picturesque,  standing  as  it  does  on  a 
plateau  nine  miles  long  by  three  broad  on  the  west 
bank  of  tLo  river,  and  environed  by  lofty  bluffs,  the 
surface  of  which,  in  some  cases,  from  base  to  summit 
appears  of  a  velvety  smoothness,  having  more  the 
semblance  of  art  than  of  Nature. 

The  city  is  laid  out  with  the  utmost  regularity,  the 
streets  wide  and  chiefly  at  right  angles;  the  business 
blocks  compactly  built  of  wood  and  stone  are  gener- 
ally of  a  very  substantial  character.  Many  of  the 
private  residences  are  elegantly  designed  and  are 
suggestive  of  wealth  and  refinement.  The  whole 
appearance  of  the  place  betokens  business  activity 
and  prosperity.  In  population,  Winona  is  the  fourth 
city  in  the  State,  and  claims  to  be  third  in  commer- 
cial importance.  It  is  the  river  outlet  of  a  large 
portion  of  Minnesota  and  several  counties  of  Northern 
Wisconsin,  and  as  a  primary  grain  market,  ranks 
fourth  in  tho  United  States. 

Besides  water  communication  north  and  south, 
Winona  has  within  her  limits  the  stations  of  the  Chi- 
cago, Milwaukee  and  Saint  Paul;  the  Green  Bay, 
Winona  and  Saint  Paul,  and  several  branch  lines  of 
railway. 

As  a  lumber  distributing  point,  this  city  is  one  of 
the  most  important  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  while 
its  saw-mills,  flour-mills,  wagon  factories  and  other 
manufacturing  establishments  give  a  very  good  idea 
of  the  extent  to  which  its  capital  and  industries  have 
been  developed  in  the  course  of  a  few  years  by  its 
enterprising  inhabitants. 


CHAPTER  III. 

WINONA    TO   MINNEAPOLIS. 

rE  continued  our  journey  up  the  Mississippi, 
at  ten  o'clock  on  the  following  morning, 
and  our  train  making  brief  stops  at  the 
various  stations  between  Winona  and 
Minneapolis,  afforded  but  little  opportu- 
nity for  obtaining  glimpses  of  the  cities 
and  towns  which  dot  the  river  banks. 
Quite  in  contrast  with  my  voyage  down 
the  Mississippi  in  a  canoe,  was  this  trip  up  stream 
by  rail.  Everything  was  reversed.  Instead  of  leis- 
urely disembarking  at  the  water  front,  we  now 
whirled  along  in  rear  of  the  numerous  places  which, 
during  the  descent  of  the  river,  had  arrested  my 
attention.  The  journey  then  covered  a  period  of 
several  days;  by  rail  it  can  be  completed  in  a  cor- 
responding number  of  hours. 

Reflecting  upon  the  various  modes  of  journeying, 
I  am  led  to  say  as  the  result  of  much  experience,  that 
he  who  looks  at  the  country  from  the  window  of  a 
railway  car,  can  at  best  have  only  an  imperfect  idea 
of  the  many  objects  of  interest  which,  are  constantly 
brought  to  his  notice.  During  a  horseback  journey 
from  ocean  to  ocean  in  1876,  I  became  satisfied  that 
an  equestrian  tour  wherein  the  rider  mounts  and  dis- 
mounts at  will  as  he  jogs  along  over  the  highway, 
chatting  with  an  occasional  farmer,  talking  with  the 
people  in  town  and  viewing  rural  scenes  at  his  pleas- 
ed) 


WINONA  TO  MINNEAPOLIS.  247 

ure,  presents  many  attractive  features  to  the  student 
and  tourist;  but  notwithstanding  all  that  may  be  said 
in  favor  of  the  horse,  I  can  not  but  feel,  after 
an  equally  extended  experience  in  the  canoe,  that  he 
who  wishes  to  view  the  landscape,  to  commune  with 
Nature,  to  see  men  and  note  the  products  of  their 
toil,  to  learn  something  of  their  manners  and  customs 
from  a  novel  standpoint,  will  find  our  rivers  and  the 
light  craft,  which  readily  thread  these  waterways, 
best  adapted  to  his  purpose. 

In  support  of  the  river  and  canoe  for  a  tour  of 
observation,  a  contemporary  says:  "  Other  roads  do 
some  violence  to  Nature  and  bring  the  traveler 
to  stare  at  her;  but  the  river  steals  into  the  scenery 
it  traverses  without  intrusion,  silently  creating  and 
adorning  it,  and  is  free  to  come  and  go  as  the 
zephyr. " 

The  voyager  in  his  canoe  near  the  surface  of  the 
water,  floats  along  seeing  hill  and  dale  and  woodland 
very  much  as  they  appeared  to  the  settler  in  pioneer 
days  in  all  their  picturesque  beauty.  Each  stroke  of 
the  paddle,  each  bend  in  the  river  brings  before  -he 
eye  new  scenes  as  the  enchanted  traveler  glides 
onward  in  his  course. 

The  canoe  employed  for  such  journeys  need  not 
necessarily  be  a  birch-bark,  or  a  "Rushton,"  or  a 
"  Rob  Roy;"  any  one  of  these  patterns  and  many  others 
will  meet  every  requirement  of  the  voyager.  In  my 
descent  of  the  Mississippi,  I  used  the  birch-bark  at 
the  headwaters  of  the  river,  for  the  reason  that  it  is 
best  adapted  to  the  rough  treatment  which  is  unavoid- 
able whenever  a  swift  current  with  an  uncertain  bed 
is  encountered;  as  this  canoe  is  easily  repaired  with 
pitch   if    rendered    unseaworthy    by    contact    with 


848  DISCOVERY  OE  ME  TRTJE  SOURCE. 

obstructions.  On  reaching  Aitkin  we  replaced  the 
Indian  with  modern  canoes  in  which  we  continued  our 
voyage  to  the  Gulf. 

Taking  it  for  granted  that  the  tourist  has  decided 
upon  the  river  as  the  most  practicable  highway  for 
his  purpose  and  that  he  has  fixed  upon  the  canoe  as 
the  most  suitable  conveyance  at  his  command,  he 
very  naturally  casts  about  for  a  desirable  field  in 
which  to  conduct  his  observations.  If  he  is  a  resi- 
dent of  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi  and  would  like 
to  know  more  of  the  romantic  history  of  North 
America,  it  is  not  necessary  that  he  should  make  an 
extended  journey  to  the  classic  Hudson,  or  the  Cana- 
dian lakes,  or  ship  his  canoe  to  the  sandy  shores  of 
New  Jersey,  or  the  rugged  coast  of  New  England. 
Right  here  in  the  great  basin  of  the  Father  of  Waters, 
unlimited  opportunities  may  be  found  for  gliding 
through  fertile  regions  that  are  as  beautiful  and  invit- 
ing to-day  as  they  were  before  the  touch  of  civilization 
had  wrought  its  mighty  change.  The  Rock,  Wiscon- 
sin, Chippewa,  Saint  Croix,  and  Minnesota  are  among 
the  most  interesting  affluents  of  the  Upper  Mississippi, 
and  the  sights  and  experiences  which  are  character- 
istic of  this  section  of  the  Great  River  may  reasonably 
be  looked  for  upon  any  of  the  streams  which  are 
directly  tributary  to  it. 

To  return  to  our  journey,  we  find  that  we  have 
passed  Minneiska  and  are  now  at  Wabasha,  a  small 
town  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river  at  the  foot  of 
Lake  Pepin.  It  is  twelve  miles  below  Lake  City;  is 
an  important  grain  market  and  has  a  population  of 
between  three  and  four  thousand. 

Leaving  Wabasha  we  move  northward  along  the 
western  shore  of  Pepin  occupied  with  thoughts  of 


WIKOtfA  TO  MttftfEAPOLtfi.  249 


the  aboriginal  legends  which  will  always  be  associated 
with  this  beautiful  sheet  of  water;  thinking  also  of 
Father  Hennepin  and  his  adventures  among  the 
Indians,  he  who  was  the  first  white  man  to  break  the 
solitude  of  these  northern  wilds,  and  who  suffered 
captivity  here;  for  it  will  be  remembered  that  having 
made  Hennepin  and  his  companions  prisoners,  the 
savages  held  a  consultation  near  the  lake  for  the  pur- 
pose of  deciding  what  they  should  do  with  their  cap- 
tives. Some  were  in  favor  of  giving  them  their 
liberty,  while  others  insisted  that  they  should  be  put 
to  death.  Those  who  were  in  favor  of  the  latter 
course  cried  and  moaned  throughout  the  night  hop- 
ing by  their  tears  to  prevail  upon  the  remainder  of 
the  tribe  to  consent  to  the  murder  of  the  whites. 
This  experience  led  Hennepin  to  christen  this  mag- 
nificent sheet  of  water,  the  Lake  of  Tears,  which  title, 
it  would  seem,  should  have  been  retained  when  we 
consider  the  peculiar  circumstances  under  which  the 
adventurous  Frenchman  was  induced  to  bestow  it. 
The  name  which  the  lake  now  bears  is  evidently  of 
French  origin,  but  I  have  been  unable  to  ascertain 
who  applied  it,  or  what  incident  led  to  its  adoption. 

Being  released  from  captivity  through  the  compas- 
sion and  influence  of  Wah-zee-koo-tay,  the  great 
Nahdawessy  chief,  Hennepin,  still  undaunted,  pro- 
ceeded up  the  Mississippi  to  the  Falls  of  Saint 
Anthony,  which  he  named  in  honor  of  his  patron 
saint. 

Following  Hennepin,  Baron  La  Hontan  journeyed 
through  Lake  Pepin,  and  many  leagues  to  the  north- 
ward, located  his  Longue  Eivierre,  that  romance  of 
geography,  which  he  described  as  having  a  "  due 
western  course,"  but  which,   it    was    subsequently 


250  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

ascertained,  was  a  creature  of  his  imagination,  or 
rather,  a  singular  combination  of  truth  and  fiction. 

Then  came  the  gallant  Le  Sueur  in  1700.  Pad- 
dling up  the  lake,  he  continued  the  ascent  of  the 
Mississippi  to  the  mouth  of  the  Minnesota  Kiver,  and 
thence  up  that  stream  to  its  Blue  Earth  tributary. 
This  daring  spirit  erected  a  log  fort  on  the  banks  of 
the  Mankato,  and  was  the  first  to  break  the  virgin 
soil  of  Minnesota  with  spade  and  pickaxe,  which  was 
done  in  digging  for  copper  ore,  large  quantities  of 
which,  or  a  green  earth  supposed  to  be  ore  of  that 
metal,  he  had  conveyed  to  France.  Le  Sueur  was 
doubtless  the  first  white  man  who  supplied  the  Indians 
of  the  Northwest  with  firearms  and  other  products  of 
civilized  labor,  and  to  his  truthful  journal  we  are 
greatly  indebted  for  much  of  the  reliable  data  we 
possess  of  the  Indian  races  of  the  Upper  Mississippi. 

After  the  lapse  of  a  considerable  period,  Captain 
Jonathan  Carver,  a  native  of  New  England,  passed 
through  Lake  Pepin  during  his  journey  up  the  Mis- 
sissippi. He  had  long  contemplated  such  an  expedi- 
tion, but  circumstances  did  not  favor  him  until  1776. 
With  only  a  Frenchman  and  Mohawk  Indian  for 
guides,  his  heroic  nature  defied  the  perils  of  such  a 
hazardous  undertaking.  Carver  ascended  the  almost 
unknown  river  in  a  canoe,  and  exulted  in  the  fact 
that  he  was  the  first  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  to  glide 
over  these  pure  waters;  to  look  upon  this  grand 
scenery  and  to  tread  the  fertile  soil  of  the  Great 
Northwest. 

Turning  from  the  adventures  of  the  heroic  old 
explorers,  we  find  our  train  in  front  of  the  railway 
station  at  Lake  City,  one  of  those  magic  towns  of 
the  West,  which,  under  favorable  circumstances,  leap 


WINONA  TO   MINNEAPOLIS.  251 

into  existence  and  develop  so  rapidly  as  to  far  exceed 
the  brightest  anticipations  of  their  founders.  Beauti- 
fully located  on  the  western  shore  of  Pepin,  enjoying 
excellent  water  communication  with  all  points  up 
and  down  the  river,  it  will  doubtless  sustain  the 
prominence  it  has  already  achieved. 

From  the  beginning  of  our  journey  the  scenery  has 
been  strikingly  picturesque,  and  yet,  on  leaving  Lake 
City  it  increases  in  grandeur  as  we  move  forward 
toward  Frontenac.  The  broad  expanse  of  water, 
charming  coves  and  huge  bluffs  which,  in  some 
instances,  rise  abruptly  to  a  height  of  from  five  hun- 
dred to  a  thousand  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
lake,  present  a  picture  that  is  seldom,  if  ever,  equaled 
in  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi. 

As  we  cast  our  eyes  to  the  eastward  and  look  upon 
the  majestic  bluffs  which  line  the  Wisconsin  shore 
our  attention  is  arrested  by  Maiden  Eock,  and  I 
recall  the  sad  story  of  Winona  and  her  leap  from 
its  summit,  an  incident  that  will  always  be  of  roman- 
tic interest  to  those  who  delight  in  the  legendary 
lore  of  the  Great  River.  Her  youth,  beauty,  and 
the  melancholy  circumstances  which  led  to  her  tragic 
death  invest  her  life  with  a  peculiar  charm,  and  will 
ever  form  a  thrilling  chapter  in  the  annals  of  Lake 
Pepin. 

It  may  be  observed  before  proceeding  further  that 
Lake  Pepin  is  twenty-one  miles  long  and  varies  in 
width  from  one  to  three  miles.  In  my  descent  of  the 
Lake  in  1881,  I  was  led  to  conclude  that  the  slightest 
breath  of  wind  will  produce  a  heavy  swell,  and  from 
this  circumstance  it  is  the  custom  of  voyagers  on  the 
river  to  pass  through  the  lake,  if  possible,  during  the 
night;  experience  having  taught  them  that  it  is  gen- 


(258) 


WINONA  TO   MINNEAPOLIS.  253 

erally  much  calmer  then  than  during  the  day. 
Toward  its  outlet  the  valley  widens  considerably, 
owing  to  the  entrance  of  the  Chippewa  River,  which 
at  its  mouth  is  five  hundred  yards  wide,  and  is  navi- 
gable at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  for  over  one  hun- 
dred miles.  The  general  trend  of  the  lake  is  from 
west-northwest  to  east- southeast.  The  scenery  along 
its  shores  contrasts  strongly  with  that  of  the  river. 
Instead  of  the  rapid  current  of  the  Mississippi  wind- 
ing around  numberless  islands,  some  of  which  dis- 
play well-wooded  surfaces,  the  lake  when  calm  pre- 
sents a  smooth  and  sluggish  expanse  unrelieved  by  a 
single  island;  nothing  limits  the  view  but  the  tower- 
ing bluffs  which  enclose  its  basin  and  seem  like  so 
many  giant  sentinels  standing  guard  over  the  accu- 
mulated flood  of  the  mighty  stream  as  it  passes  quietly 
onward  to  the  sea. 

Arrived  at  Frontenac  we  halt  for  a  moment  only. 
This  is  a  growing  hamlet  of  perhaps  three  hundred 
souls.  In  appearance  it  is  a  most  romantic  spot, 
with  its  white  sand  beach  in  front  and  bluffs  in  the 
background.  Frontenac  has  already  attracted  some 
attention  as  a  summer  resort,  and  will  doubtless  in  the 
course  of  a  few  years  attain  sufficient  importance  in 
this  particular  to  meet  in  a  measure  at  least  the 
bright  anticipations  of  its  liberal  and  philanthropic 
founder — General  Israel  Garrard. 

Passing  Frontenac  we  hurry  on  to  Red  Wing,  situ- 
ated on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  six  miles 
above  the  head  of  the  lake.  Like  many  other  cities 
of  Minnesota,  Red  Wing  has  an  interesting  history, 
and  is  a  striking  illustration  of  what  an  intelligent 
and  industrious  people  can  accomplish  in  the  course  of 
a  very  few  years  when  naturally  zealous,  and  their 


254  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

energies  are  properly  directed.  The  standard  of 
civilization  was  originally  planted  here  by  two  Swiss 
missionaries,  bearing  the  names  of  Denton  and  Garin, 
who  arrived,  accompanied  by  their  wives,  in  1838. 
The  savage  Dakotas  at  this  period  were  in  posses- 
sion of  the  territory,  and  these  brave,  self-denying 
Christians  labored  among  them  until  the  health  of 
Denton  failed  in  1846,  when  the  American  Board  of 
Missions  appointed  as  their  successors,  John  Aiton 
and  J.  W.  Hancock,  two  clergymen  of  Vermont.  Two 
white  families  and  about  three  hundred  Indians 
were  at  that  time  the  sole  occupants  of  what  is  now 
the  flourishing  little  city  of  Red  Wing. 

In  June,  1852,  the  Government  entered  into  a 
treaty  with  the  Indians  which  authorized  the  occupa- 
tion of  the  Territory  by  settlers,  but  the  close  of  the 
same  year  saw  only  about  forty  people  on  the  present 
site  of  Red  Wing.  On  the  following  Christmas  day 
the  entire  white  community  dined  at  the  residence  of 
William  Freeborn,  one  of  the  first  settlers.  Soon 
after  this  pleasant  event  in  its  pioneer  history,  the 
place  began  to  grow,  and  although  its  development 
has  been  moderate  it  has  reached  a  population  of 
between  twelve  and  thirteen  thousand. 

Red  Wing  enjoys  the  reputation  of  being  one  of  the 
largest  primary  wheat  markets  in  the  country,  having 
handled  over  three  million  bushels  in  a  single  year. 
Its  manufactures  also  are  quite  extensive,  while  the 
clay  deposits  in  its  immediate  vicinity  are  among  the 
finest  and  richest  in  America.  In  addition  to  clay, 
a  very  superior  quality  of  sand  is  found  in  this  local- 
ity, in  large  quantities,  and  I  was  informed  that  it 
was  the  intention  to  establish  a  glass  factory  there  at 
an  early  date.    Being  within  a  few  miles  of  Lake 


WINONA  TO   MINNEAPOLIS.  255 

Pepin,  and  enjoying  every  advantage  which  has 
favored  her  sister  cities,  Ked  Wing  may  reasonably 
anticipate  a  steady  growth  and  a  rapid  development 
of  her  great  natural  resources. 

Less  than  an  hour's  ride  from  Ked  Wing  and  we 
are  at  Hastings  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  twenty 
miles  below  Saint  Paul.  In  my  journey  between  these 
two  points  I  again  saw  in  striking  contrast,  my  canoe 
voyage  of  1881,  and  my  present  trip  up  river  by  rail. 
Then  a  thunder-storm,  which  had  been  slumbering  for 
a  few  hours,  broke  out  afresh  at  ten  o'clock  in  the 
morning  and  followed  us  throughout  the  day — drench- 
ing us  to  the  skin  and  making  our  experience  any- 
thing but  agreeable.  Now,  we  were  favored  with  a 
cloudless  sky,  and  the  most  delightful  weather  in 
every  particular. 

We  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Saint  Croix  River  just 
below  Hastings.  This  stream  enters  the  Mississippi 
from  the  east  and  forms  the  boundary  between  Wis- 
consin and  Minnesota.  For  a  considerable  distance 
below  the  Saint  Croix  the  water  of  the  Mississippi, 
where  shallow,  is  of  a  reddish  tint,  but  very  black  in 
deep  water.  The  red  is  occasioned  by  the  sand  seen 
at  the  bottom  which  is  of  that  color.  It  may  be  said 
in  explanation  that  the  dark  color  is  invariably  com- 
mon to  deep  water  when  moderately  limpid. 

Hastings  is  a  pretty  little  city  of  modest  pretensions, 
claiming  a  population  of  only  about  five  thousand. 
In  pioneer  days  it  aspired  to  first  place  among  the 
leading  cities  of  Minnesota,  and  I  am  told  was  at  one 
time  considered  the  rival  of  Saint  Paul  and  Minne- 
apolis. While  it  has  not  been  able  to  reach  the  goal 
of  its  ambition,  it  has  made  considerable  progress, 
and  will  doubtless  in  the   course  of  another  decade 


256  DISCOVERY   OF    THE  TRUE   SOURCE. 

show  a  creditable  increase  in  population  and  commer- 
cial importance. 

The  route  from  Hastings  to  Saint  Paul  led  us 
through  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  picturesque 
regions  of  Minnesota.  Some  of  the  finest  farms  in 
the  State  are  to  be  found  here,  while  the  scenery,  if 
we  except  that  along  the  shores  of  Lake  Pepin,  is  not 
surpassed  anywhere  in  the  Northwest. 

Soon  after  leaving  Hastings,  we  passed  what  is 
termed,  and  unquestionably  is,  the  narrowest  place  in 
the  Mississippi  belovr  the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony. 
The  river  at  this  point  is  clear  of  islands  and  not  more 
than  one  hundred  yards  wide.  Pike  states  that  his 
men  rowed  across  in  forty  strokes  of  the  oar;  another 
traveler  affirms  that  he  crossed  in  1857  from  a  dead 
start  in  sixteen  strokes.  This  sudden  contraction  of 
the  stream  gives  it  a  greatly  increased  depth,  and  in 
my  soundings  of  1881,  I  discovered  it  to  be  over  one 
hundred  feet  deep,  while  its  velocity  was  nearly 
doubled. 

At  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  church  spires 
of  Saint  Paul  were  seen  in  the  distance,  and  a  few 
moments  later  we  entered  the  hospitable  gates  of  the 
capital  city  of  Minnesota. 


CHAPTER   IV. 

fi^icLi  history   of  Minnesota. 

''  ESS  than  fifty  years  ago  the  present  State  of 
Minnesota  was  a  wilderness  of  woodland 
and  of  prairie — the  home  of  the  red  man. 
In  the  deep  recesses  of  her  forests  the 
Sioux,  Chippewas,  Winnebagos,  and  many 
other  savage  tribes  met  and  contended 
for  supremacy;  while  vast  herds  of  buffalo 
grazed  and  roamed  at  will  over  her  fertile  prairies. 

Here  the  dark-browed  Indian,  in  his  birch  canoe, 
floated  and  paddled  down  the  rivers  and  over  his  own 
loved  lakes;  and  from  the  rocky  bluffs  and  hill-tops, 
whence  to-day  floats  the  banner  of  civilization,  arose 
only  the  smoke  of  the  council-fire,  and  was  heard 
the  war-whoop  of  the  savage.  Across  these  sky- 
tinted  waters,  once  the  battle-field  of  the  red  men, 
now  reverberate  the  soft,  sweet  strains  of  the  organ, 
the  peaceful  chimes  of  the  church-going  bell,  and  the 
busy  hum  of  commerce. 

The  sights  and  scenes  which  were  characteristic 
of  this  region  in  aboriginal  days  have  passed  away. 
The  remnants  of  a  few  Indian  tribes  still  linger  at 
the  Headwaters  of  May-see-see-bee — their  ideal  river; 
and  an  occasional  straggler  from  these  bands  is  now 
and  then  seen  in  the  streets  of  Saint  Paul,  but  in  a 
very  few  years  at  most,  their  homes,  their  hunting- 
grounds,  and  even  their  very  burial-places  will  be 
forgotten. 

17  (2BT) 


258  DISCOVERY   OF   THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

On  this  ground,  the  warlike  Sioux  and  their 
implacable  enemies,  the  equally  fierce  and  uncom- 
promising Chippewas,  were  for  ages  engaged  in  an 
exterminating  conflict  which  spared  neither  age,  nor 
sex,  nor  condition.  This  fair  land  has  been  the 
scene  of  many  a  sanguinary  combat.  Here  thousands 
of  the  brave  sons  of  the  forest  have  sung  their  last 
wail  of  despair,  and,  suffering  indescribable  tortures, 
met  death  uncomplainingly. 

The  bitter  feuds  of  the  Indians  descended  to 
pioneer  times,  and  among  the  early  settlers  of  Min- 
nesota there  are  many  yet  living  who  were  reluctant 
witnesses  of  their  incessant  warfare.  The  soil  upon 
which  we  tread  to-day  is  impregnated  with  the  blood 
of  untutored  savages,  who,  though  denizens  of  the 
wild  forest,  and  filled  with  hatred  of  their  fellow-men, 
still,  however,  heard  the  voice  of  the  Great  Spirit  in 
the  morning  breeze;  beheld  him  in  the  dark  cloud 
that  rose  in  the  west;  recognized  his  presence  in  the 
setting  sun,  as  he  sank,  enthroned  under  a  glorious 
canopy,  to  his  burning  bed.  Here  they  loved,  fought, 
and  delighted  in  the  sports  of  the  chase. 

Over  two  centuries  ago  the  attention  of  Europeans 
was  directed  to  the  region  now  known  as  Minnesota. 
Fact  and  fancy  had  already  invested  this  portion  of 
North  America  with  a  romantic  interest  rarely,  if 
ever,  equaled  in  the  history  of  exploration.  'From 
the  year  1658,  when  the  Jesuit  missionary  and  explorer, 
Father  Menard,  was  lost  in  the  wilderness,  down  to 
the  present  time,  Minnesota  has  ever  been  a  most 
fruitful  field  for  research. 

It  has  been  observed  in  a  previous  chapter,  that 
Father  Louis  Hennepin  was  the  first  white  man  to 
ascend  the  Upper  Mississippi;  then  came  La  Hontan, 


EAKLY   HISTORY    OF   MINNESOTA.  259 

Lo  Sueur,  and  Carver;  the  last  of  whom  acquired  great 
influence  over  the  Indians;  made  several  treaties  with 
them,  was  elected  to  the  chieftainship  of  a  tribe,  and 
given  a  vast  tract  of  land  embracing  millions  of  acres 
and  covering  the  very  ground  on  which  Saint  Paul  now 
stands.  Although  this  gift  is  said  to  have  been  rati- 
fied by  George  III.  it  was  not  sustained  by  our  Con- 
gress, and  the  heroic  and  adventurous  Carver  was, 
for  several  years,  suffered  to  feel  the  annoyances  of 
poverty,  and,  after  a  fruitless  effort  to  obtain  ade- 
quate compensation  for  his  services,  died  of  want  in 
the  city  of  London,  where  for  a  long  time  previous 
to  his  death  he  endured  greater  privations  than  had 
fallen  to  his  lot  in  the  American  wilderness. 

Within  the  present  century,  Pike,  Cass,  Beltrami, 
Schoolcraft,  Nicollet,  Fremont,  Long,  and  Keating 
have  visited  and  explored  Minnesota.  The  maps, 
journals,  and  works  of  these  eminent  explorers,  and 
the  narratives  of  their  heroic  predecessors,  enable  us 
to  follow  chronologically  the  leading  events  in  its 
annals  since  Father  Hennepin  first  looked  upon  the 
Falls  of  Saint  Anthony,  and  to  connect,  with  some 
degree  of  accuracy,  the  past  with  the  present.  These 
then  are  our  sources  of  information,  and  these  men 
the  landmarks  in  a  most  romantic  and  interesting 
history. 

In  addition  to  those  who  have  visited  Minnesota  for 
the  specific  purpose  of  exploration,  it  is  but  just  to 
mention  a  few  of  the  pioneers  and  fur  traders  whose 
daring  and  enterprise  have  rendered  their  names  his- 
toric. Of  this  class,  Eenville,  Provencalle,  Morrison, 
and  Faribault  are  worthy  of  especial  notice  in 
the  early  records  of  the  State.  First  in  the  list  of 
these  sturdy  sons  of  the  border  was  Joseph  Kenville, 


260  DISCOVERY   OF   THE.  TRUE  SOURCE. 

who  was  born  upon  the  soil  of  Minnesota  in  the  year 
1779.  His  father  was  a  French  trader  and  his  mother 
an  Indian.  At  this  period  there  were  not  more  than 
a  half-dozen  white  families  within  the  limits  of  the 
vast  territory  now  comprising  Northern  Illinois,  Wis- 
consin, Iowa,  and  Minnesota. 

The  story  of  the  life  of  this  Christian  pioneer  forms 
an  interesting  link  between  the  past  and  present  his- 
tory of  Minnesota.  At  the  age  of  ten  years,  young 
Kenville  was  taken  to  Canada  by  his  father  and  his 
education  intrusted  to  a  Koman  Catholic  priest. 
Longing  for  his  home  and  friends,  he  left  school 
before  completing  the  prescribed  course  of  study  and 
returned  to  the  land  of  his  birth — the  wilderness  of 
the  Northwest. 

Soon  after  his  return  from  Canada,  Renville  acted 
as  guide  to  General  Pike  and  conducted  that  officer 
and  his  command  to  the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony.  In 
recognition  of  this  service,  Pike  subsequently  secured 
for  him  the  appointment  of  Government  interpreter. 
For  many  years  he  was  an  influential  citizen  of  Min- 
nesota and  for  a  long  period  held  various  local  offices 
of  importance.  He  was  among  the  first,  if  not  the 
very  first,  to  plant  corn  and  raise  stock  in  the  territory. 

Although  bred  in  the  Catholic  faith,  missionaries, 
without  regard  to  religious  denomination,  received  a 
cordial  welcome  at  his  trading-post.  Years  before 
there  was  a  church  within  three  hundred  miles  of  his 
cabin,  he  made  a  journey  to  Prairie  du  Chien  in 
order  that  he  might  wed  in  accordance  with  the 
forms  of  the  Christian  service.  His  Indian  bride, 
who,  it  may  be  added,  was  the  first  Dakota  to  unite 
with  the  church  and  the  first  to  die  in  its  faith, 
through  the  teaching  of  her  husband  had  embraced 


EARLY  HISTORY  OF  MINNESOTA.  261 

Christianity  some  years  before  she  had  even  seen 
a  missionary.  After  a  long,  eventful,  and  useful  life 
Renville  died  in  1856,  and  his  death  is  said  to  have 
been  peaceful  and  happy,  and  a  valuable  legacy  to 
the  church  of  which  he  had  been  an  exemplary 
member  for  more  than  a  half-century. 

Contemporaneous  with  Renville,  was  Louis  Proven - 
galle,  one  of  the  most  daring  pioneers  of  Minnesota, 
whose  death  occurred  at  Mendota  in  1850.  Stalwart 
in  physique  and  possessed  of  an  inflexible  will,  he 
was  in  every  way  well  qualified  for  the  rough  duties 
of  a  frontier  trader. 

Provengalle  was  possessed  of  but  little  education, 
and  his  books  of  Indian  credit  were  understood  only 
by  himself,  as  all  of  the  entries  were  made  in  hiero- 
glyphics, and  yet  his  white  and  dusky  customers 
never  questioned  their  accuracy.  This  bold  and  fear- 
less trader  was  ever  ready  for  the  various  emergencies 
which  often  confronted  him,  and  never  shrank  from 
danger  when  the  odds  were  against  him.  On  one 
occasion,  a  band  of  Indians  entered  his  store  and 
threatened  to  seize  his  goods,  whereupon  he  snatched 
up  a  firebrand  and  holding  it  to  a  keg  of  gun-powder 
avowed  his  determination  to  blow  himself  and  them 
into  the  air  if  they  took  a  single  article.  The  pros- 
pect of  being  sent  so  suddenly  to  their  "  Happy 
Hunting-Grounds "  quite  disconcerted  the  pillagers, 
and  they  rushed  headlong  from  the  cabin,  leaving 
Provengalle  in  possession  of  his  entire  stock.  It  is 
sufficient  to  add  that  after  this  episode,  the  Indians 
were  most  careful  not  to  incur  the  displeasure  of 
their  white  brother,  and  never  gave  him  further 
trouble. 

Among  the  most  successful  fur  traders  of  Minne- 


262  DISCOVERY   OF  THE  TRUE    SOURCE. 

sota  at  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  William 
Morrison  is  justly  given  a  position  in  the  front  rank. 
As  early  as  1802,  he  established  a  line  of  trading- 
posts  far  up  the  Mississippi,  which  in  succeeding 
years  he  extended  to  the  Headwaters  of  the  river. 

This  enterprising  trader  was  doubtless  the  first 
white  man  to  look  upon  Lake  Itasca,  which  he  saw 
in  1804,  and  had  he  known  at  the  time  that  its  out- 
let was  the  Mississippi,  would  have  been  entitled  to 
all  the  credit  which,  twenty-eight  years  later,  was 
accorded  to  Schoolcraft.  It  was  not  the  business  of 
Morrison  to  give  much  attention  to  the  geography 
and  topography  of  the  country;  on  the  contrary  he 
confined  himself  to  the  matter-of-fact  duties  of  his 
occupation.  He  saw  Itasca  simply  as  one  of  the 
thousands  of  lakes  of  Minnesota,  but  not  in  its  dis- 
tinctive relation  to  the  Great  River.  As  an  agent  of 
the  American  Fur  Company,  Morrison  continued  his 
operations  on  the  Upper  Mississippi  until  1826,  dur- 
ing which  period  he  did  much  to  encourage  immigra- 
tion to  this  interesting  section  of  the  country. 

Before  Wisconsin  wras  admitted  to  the  sisterhood  of 
States,  all  of  that  region  lying  east  of  the  Mississippi 
was  regarded  as  part  of  Wisconsin  Territory;  but 
after  her  admission  as  a  State  there  was  a  consider- 
able population  beyond  her  western  boundary  with- 
out any  state  or  territorial  government.  At  this 
juncture  of  affairs,  John  Catlin,  who  had  been  secre- 
tary of  the  Territory  of  Wisconsin  and  had  just  been 
electei  Governor  of  the  new  State,  believing  that  the 
hitherto  unclaimed  portion  of  Minnesota  was  within 
his  jurisdiction,  ordered  an  election  for  delegate  to 
the  House  of  Representatives  of  the  United  States. 
This  election,  which  was  held  October  thirtieth,  184-8, 


EARLY  HISTORY   OF  MIKXESOTA.  263 

resulted  in  nominating  as  candidates,  Henry  H. 
Sibley  and  Henry  M.  Rice,  the  former  of  whom  being 
duly  elected,  proceeded  to  Washington  and  took  his 
seat  early  in  1849. 

Sibley  had  scarcely  had  time  to  realize  that  he  was 
a  representative  of  the  State  of  Wisconsin,  when,  at 
the  close  of  the  session  of  Congress  on  the  third  of 
March,  Minnesota  was  organized  as  a  Territory  and 
that  portion  of  Wisconsin  which  he  had  formerly 
represented  was  now  within  the  limits  of  Minnesota. 
On  the  next  day,  March  fourth,  General  Taylor  was 
inaugurated  President,  and  a  few  days  later,  appointed 
the  following  officers  for  the  government  of  the  Ter- 
ritory. Alexander  Ramsay,  Governor;  Charles  K. 
Smith,  secretary;  A.  Goodrich,  chief-justice;  and  B. 
B.  Meekers  and  David  Cooper,  associate-justices  of 
the  Supreme  Court;  H.  L.  Moss,  United  States  dis- 
trict attorney;  and  A.  M.  Mitchell,  United  States 
marshal.  All  of  these  officials  took  the  oath  of  office 
soon  after  and  entered  upon  their  respective  duties. 
On  the  first  of  June,  1849,  Governor  Eamsay  issued 
a  proclamation  announcing  the  organization  of  the 
territorial  government.  The  Governor  also  ordered 
an  election  of  members  to  the  legislative  assembly, 
and  a  delegate  to  Congress;  the  latter  office  being 
given  to  General  Sibley,  who  was  now  returned  to 
Washington  as  the  representative  of  Minnesota. 

County  officers  were  elected  in  November  of  the 
same  year;  but  the  regular  election  for  all  officers, 
including  a  delegate  to  Congress,  was  not  held  until 
the  first  Monday  of  September,  1850.  At  this  elec- 
tion, General  Sibley  was  returned  to  Congress  and 
A.  M.  Mitchell  became  his  colleague. 

Minnesota  was  now  fairly  launched  upon  her  polit- 


264 


DISCOVERY   OP  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 


ical  career,  and  nothing  seemed  wanting  to  assure 
for  her  a  prosperous  and  enviable  future.  Her  great 
natural  resources,  her  splendid  commercial  advan- 
tages, and  her  confident  and  enterprising  citizens,  all 
tended  to  make  her  outlook  most  promising  and 
insure  for  her  a  brilliant  and  glorious  destiny. 


SAINT-PAUL  IN  1841. 


CHAPTER  V. 

THE    "TWIN 

F  the  numberless  cities  which  have  sprung 
into  existence  since  the  discovery  of  the 
American  continent,  few  have  attracted 
such  wide-spread,  attention  as  Saint  Paul 
and  Minneapolis,  and  although  the  growth 
of  some  of  our  great  commercial  centers 
has  been  phenomenal,  none  have  advanced 
more  rapidly  in  wealth  and  population  than  the 
"Twin  Cities"  of  the  Northwest.  What  they  were 
aud  what  they  have  become,  the  remarkable  develop- 
ment of  their  resources,  and  when,  how,  and  by  whom 
the  foundations  of  an  unparalleled  prosperity  were 
laid,  constitute  one  of  the  most  interesting  chapters 
in  the  history  of  Minnesota. 

SAINT    PAUL. 

After  the  explorations  of  Hennepin,  only  an  occa- 
sional missionary  or  adventurous  traveler  found  his 
way  to  the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony,  and  no  perma- 
nent settlement  was  attempted  in  this  vicinity  until 
1838,  when  the  first  building  was  erected  and  a  trad- 
ing-post located  on  the  site  of  the  present  city  of 
Saint  Paul.  In  1841,  the  Jesuits  established  a  mis- 
sion here  and  built  a  log  chapel,  which  they  dedicated 
to  Saint  Paul,  the  name  subsequently  given  to  the 
town  which  quickly  sprung  up  around  it. 

(865) 


266  DISCOVERY   OF   THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

Although  the  embryo  Saint  Paul  was  surveyed  in 
1845,  there  were  but  three  families  on  the  ground  in 
1847.  In  the  same  year  it  was  laid  out  into  village 
streets,  and  in  1849  became  the  capital  of  the  Terri- 
tory. At  this  time  its  entire  population  did  not 
exceed  three  hundred  souls.  A  municipal  govern- 
ment was  established  in  1854,  when  three  thousand 
inhabitants  were  claimed.  At  the  close  of  1856  the 
population  had  increased  to  ten  thousand.  Very  few 
of  the  original  buildings  were  to  be  seen  at  this 
period,  as  the  greater  share  of  these  relics  of  pioneer 
days  had  been  replaced  by  more  commodious  and 
imposing  residences  and  substantial  business  blocks. 
In  1880,  twenty-four  years  later,  its  population  had 
been  multiplied  by  five,  the  census  returns  giving 
fifty  thousand.  In  ^849  the  business  of  the  place 
amounted  to  $131,000,  which  increased  so  rapidly 
that  in  1854  it  amounted  to  $6,000,000,  with  a 
capital  of  $700,000  invested.  Since  that  elate  its 
financial  development  has  been  phenomenal,  perhaps 
not  equaled  by  more  than  two  or  three  cities  in  this 
country. 

Saint  Paul  is  most  fortunate  in  its  location,  resting 
as  it  does  upon  three  elevations  or  plateaus  over- 
looking the  Mississippi,  and  in  the  rear,  surrounded 
by  a  gracefully  undulating  and  elevated  ridge,  which, 
for  the  most  part,  constitutes  the  residence  portion 
of  the  city.  The  central  plateau  is  from  eighty  to 
ninety  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river,  with  an 
excellent  steamboat  landing  at  each  extremity. 

The  original  town  was  regularly  laid  out,  but  the 
additions  are  irregular.  The  streets  are  well  graded 
and  generally  paved.  The  upper  terrace  or  plateau  is 
underlaid  by  a  stratum  of  limestone  from  twelve  to 


(*J?) 


268  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

twenty  feet  thick,  and  of  this  material  many  of  the 
buildings  are  constructed.  Five  bridges  span  the 
river;  electric  street-car  lines  connect  all  parts  of  the 
city,  and  reach  also  to  Minneapolis,  while  a  splendid 
sewerage  system  drains  it  of  all  impurities. 

Saint  Paul  is  nominally  at  the  head  of  navigation 
of  the  Mississippi,  the  further  progress  of  steamboats 
up  the  river  being  checked  by  the  rapids  below  the 
Falls  of  Saint  Anthony.  The  river  at  this  point  is 
open  from  two  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  forty 
days  in  the  year,  and  many  steamboats  arrive  and 
depart  daily.  It  is  a  thorough  business  city,  its  chief 
thoroughfares  being  lined  with  large  and  well-built 
stores  and  warehouses;  the  movement  of  its  citizens 
on  the  streets  indicating  the  liurry  and  preoccupation 
of  pressing  business  pursuits.  The  casual  visitor  is 
reminded  of  Chicago  more  than  of  any  other  city  of  the 
West.  At  its  back  lie  the  lumber  and  grain  producing 
regions  of  Minnesota,  Dakota,  and  Wisconsin,  which 
are  yearly  filling  up  with  an  intelligent  and  indus- 
trious people.  Much  of  their  produce  finds  an  out- 
let at  this  port,  and  here  they  look  for  a  great  portion 
of  their  supplies.  The  retail  trade  of  Saint  Paul  is 
very  large,  and  it  is  also  in  great  part  the  wholesale 
center  of  a  large  circle  of  smaller  towns. 

Its  double  line  of  river  bank  affords  ample  wharfage; 
while  its  network  of  railways  connect  it  with  Min- 
neapolis and  every  town  of  importance  in  Minnesota 
and  adjoining  States.  These  secure  permanence  to 
its  prosperity,  since  railroads,  even  more  than  rivers, 
make  flourishing  cities  at  the  present  day. 

The  State  Capitol  occupies  an  entire  square  on  an 
elevation  overlooking  the  city  and  river.  The  ground 
upon  which  this  building  stands  is  sightly,  and  it  is 


THE   "TWIN   CITIES/'  269 

to  be  hoped  that  the  present  structure  will  soon  be 
replaced  by  something  more  in  keeping  with  the 
resources,  enterprise,  and  bright  anticipations  of 
Saint  Paul,  and  the  grandest  State  of  the  great 
Northwest. 

Among  the  institutions  which  are  worthy  of  notice 
the  Library  Association,  the  Minnesota  Historical 
Society,  and  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  deserve 
especial'  mention.  The  Library  Association  and 
Historical  Society  have  fine  libraries,  and  are  open  to 
the  public  daily;  while  the  Academy  of  Sciences  has 
upon  its  shelves  over  a  hundred  and  forty  thousand 
specimens  in  natural  history. 

In  its  early  days  the  Historical  Society  was  the 
pride  of  Minnesota,  and  counted  among  its  members 
many  of  the'  representative  men  of  the  State  and 
country.  To  be  named  as  its  president  or  secretary 
was  an  evidence  of  distinguished  citizenship.  Dating 
from  the  organization  of  the  territorial  legislature  in 
1849,  this  society  has  had  a  most  eventful  and 
interesting  career.  Through  the  enterprise  of  Gov- 
ernor Ramsey  and  Rev.  E.  D.  Neil,  Us  first  president 
and  secretary,  much  valuable  information  has  been 
obtained  relating  to  aboriginal  times  and  the  early 
settlement  of  the  State. 

Saint  Paul  enjoys  superior  religious  and  educa- 
tional advantages,  as  its  numerous  schools,  and 
churches  of  all  denominations,  attest.  Many  of  the 
churches  are  elegant  structures,  and  the  ministrations 
of  the  clergy  are  characterized  by  well-directed  zeal. 

The  press  of  a  city  has  much  to  do  in  promoting 
its  welfare  and  shaping  its  destinies,  and  the  impor- 
tance of  this  powerful  and  influential  factor  in  any 
community  can  hardly  be  overestimated.     A  sketch 


270  DISCOVERY   OF  THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

of  Saint  Paul  and  Minneapolis  would  therefore  seem 
incomplete  without  some  reference  to  the  enterpris- 
ing journalists  and  journals  of  these  cities  that  have 
contributed  so  largely  to  their  development.  Through 
their  unbounded  faith  in  the  resources  and  future  of 
this  section  of  our  country  and  their  unceasing  labors 
in  its  behalf,  they  have  accomplished  a  work  whose 
value  it  would  be  difficult  to  determine,  and  which 
entitles  them  to  rank  among  the  benefactors  of  the 
Northwest. 

The  first  to  establish  a  newspaper  at  Saint  Paul 
was  Professor  A.  Randall  of  Cincinnati,  who  had 
been  for  some  years  identified  with  the  Geological 
Survey  of  Minnesota;  its  name  was  the  Minnesota 
Register,  and  the  date  of  its  birth  April  twenty- 
seventh,  1849.  Although  the  initial  number  of  this 
sheet  was  printed  in  Cincinnati,  it  was  dated  at  Saint 
Paul,  and  was  in  every  sense  a  Saint  Paul  newspaper 
— a  Minnesota  newspaper,  and  the  first  ever  published 
in  the  Territory. 

On  the  day  following  the  issue  of  the  Register 
another  paper,  bearing  the  significant  title  of 
Pioneer,  made  its  appearance.  Although  the 
Register  had  twenty -four  hours  the  start  of  its 
rival,  it  soon  fell  behind  in  circulation  and  popularity, 
and  but  for  its  timely  union  with  the  Chronicle 
would  doubtless  have  collapsed  on  the  very  thresh- 
old of  its  career.  In  the  meantime,  Randall  of  the 
former  and  James  Hughes,  who  had  established  the 
latter,  severed  their  connection  with  their  protege, 
the  Chronicle  and  Register,  leaving  it  in  the 
hands  of  Major  McLean  and  D.  Owens,  under  whom 
it  was  conducted  with  success  for  some  months  in 
the  interest  of  the  Whig  party. 


THE   "TWIN    CITIES."  271 

Having  interests  outside  of  their  paper,  McLean 
and  Owens  sold  the  establishment  to  David  Olmstead, 
a  democrat,  and  it  now  became  the  organ  of  that 
party  in  Minnesota.  It  is  said  by  some  local  writers 
that  during  the  period  the  Chronicle  and  Register 
was  owned  by  Olmstead  it  had  several  editors,  but 
"for  the  most  part,  it  edited  itself." 

The  first  number  of  the  Minnesota  Democrat  was 
brought  out  in  December,  1849,  by  D.  A.  Eobertson, 
and  at  about  the  same  time,  C.  J.  Henniss,  formerly 
of  Philadelphia,  purchased  the  Chronicle  and  Regis- 
ter. A  ±ew  months  later  this  sheet  succumbed — the 
type  and  presses  being  transferred  to  the  Democrat. 

The  Minnesotian  was  an  offshoot  of  the  Pioneer, 
and  its  first  number  was  issued  September  seventeenth, 
1851.  Its  publication  was  undertaken  by  a  committee, 
with  J.  P.  Owens  in  charge  of  the  editorial  and  J.  S. 
Terry  at  the  head  of  the  financial  department.  On 
the  sixth  of  January  following  it  passed  into  the  hands 
of  Owens  and  Moore,  under  whose  names  it  continued 
for  several  years. 

Since  1849  over  a  hundred  daily  and  weekly  news- 
papers have  been  established  in  the  "  Twin  Cities," 
many  of  which  have  proved  successful  ventures  and 
justified  the  enthusiastic  confidence  of  their  enter- 
prising founders.  The  history  of  these  papers 
alone,  if  presented  in  detail,  would  furnish  material 
for  a  large  and  interesting  volume,  but  is  entirely 
beyond  the  aim  of  the  present  work,  which  is  simply 
to  deal  with  the  press  of  to-day,  making  slight 
reference  only  to  its  early  beginnings. 

Prominent  among  the  existing  journals  of  Saint 
Paul  is  the  Pioneer-Press,  an  ably  edited  and 
influential  daily,  originally  the  Pio?ieer,  founded  in 


272  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

1849  by  James  Goodhue.  Its  success  as  a  newspaper 
and  organ  of  public  opinion  may  be  inferred  from 
the  fact  that  since  its  publication  it  has  superseded 
or  absorbed  no  less  than  twenty-five  of  its  contempo- 
raries. The  Press,  the  latest  and  most  important  of 
those  acquired,  was  founded  in  1861  by  James 
Wheelock,  and  united  its  fortunes  with  the  Pioneer 
in  1875,  from  which  date  to  the  present  the  paper 
has  borne  the  compound  title  of  Pioneer- Press. 
Journalism  can  not  be  said  to  have  had  any  real 
existence  in  Minnesota  before  the  establishment  of 
this  paper.  The  Pioneer-Press  now  extends  its 
circulation  and  influence  over  Minnesota  and  the 
adjoining  States.  Its  office  in  Saint  Paul  is  said  to 
be  one  of  the  finest  buildings  of  its  kind  in  the 
country. 

Next  in  point  of  seniority  is  the  Saint  Paul  Dis- 
patch, an  evening  paper,  founded  in  February,  1863, 
by  H.  P.  Hall,  David  Ramaley,  and  John  W.  Cun- 
ningham. The  Dispatch  has  been  a  consistent 
exponent  and  advocate  of  Republican  principles  from 
its  foundation  to  the  present  day,  and  an  eminently 
successful  sheet  from  its  start,  when  it  presented  only 
four  columns  of  news  to  its  subscribers,  a  fifth  column 
being  devoted  to  the  editorial  exposition  of  its  politics. 
It  was  enlarged  twice  during  its  first  year  owing  to 
an  increasing  demand  and  the  growth  of  Repub- 
lican views.  Its  size  has  been  considerably  increased 
since,  and  to-day  it  presents  an  amplitude  of  surface 
nearly  equal  to  that  of  the  dailies  of  Chicago  and  New 
York.  In  1870,  Ramaley  withdrew  from  the  partner- 
ship, Cunningham  having  parted  with  his  interest 
shortly  after  the  founding  of  the  paper.  Thus, 
Hall,  in  1870,  became  sole  proprietor  and  retained 


THE   "TWIN   CITIES/'  273 

the  ownership  until  September,  1876,  when  the  plant 
was  disposed  of  to  a  company,  at  the  head  of  which 
was  H.  A.  Castle.  In  July,  1880,  the  proprietorship 
passed  to  W.  K.  Marshall  and  0.  C.  Andrews,  the 
latter  gentleman  retiring  in  the  following  year, 
Castle  again  becoming  the  owner  of  the  paper.  In 
1885,  George  K.  Shaw  succeeded  Castle,  and  a  few 
months  later,  George  Thompson,  its  present  pro- 
prietor, undertook  the  management  of  the  paper. 

The  Dispatch,  after  frequently  changing  hands, 
has,  at  length,  found  its  place  as  a  powerful  repre- 
sentative and  index  of  public  opinion.  Under  its 
present  vigorous  management  it  has  succeeded 
beyond  all  precedent,  and  is  to-day  the  recognized 
leading  Republican  journal  of  the  Northwest.  It  is 
an  eminently  "wide-awake"  channel  of  news, 
having  the  franchise  of  the  Associated  Press  and  the 
exclusive  day  news  of  the  United  Press — the  two 
greatest  news-gathering  associations  in  the  world.  It 
has  also  a  corps  of  several  hundred  special  corre- 
spondents in  various  parts  of  the  country  and  in 
nearly  every  city  of  the  Northwest.  The  decided 
views  of  the  Dispatch,  in  politics,  have  gained  for  it 
a  host  of  friends  and  supporters  and  added  greatly 
to  its  influence  and  circulation.  It  is  to-day  par 
excellence  the  Republican  paper  of  Saint  Paul,  and 
its  tone  in  all  social  and  political  matters  has  secured 
for  it  a  distinction  second  to  no  other  newspaper  in 
Minnesota  and  the  adjoining  States.  Its  prominent 
position  to-day  is  doubtless  an  augury  of  still  greater 
success  in  the  future. 

January  fifteenth,  1881,  the  first  issue  of  the  Saint 
Paul  Globe  appeared  as  an  organ  of  the  Democracy  of 
the  Northwest.  In  1885  it  passed  into  the  control 
18 


274  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

of  the  Globe  Publishing  Company,  and  has  since 
been  recognized  as  a  great  and  influential  journal 
under  the  efficient  management  of  Hon.  Lewis  Baker, 
formerly  of  the  Wheeling  Register,  assisted  by  Henry 
T.  Black.  It  has  deservedly  attained  an  immense 
circulation  in  Saint  Paul  and  Minneapolis;  in  the 
latter  of  which  its  patrons  "are  nearly  as  numerous 
as  in  the  former  city.  It  also  circulates  through- 
out Minnesota  and  all  the  adjoining  States.  The 
Globe  publishing  office  in  the  capital  city  is  a 
stately  ten-story,  brown  stone  building,  while  in 
Minneapolis,  the  company  has  erected  a  magnifi- 
cent edifice  similar  to  their  headquarters  in  Saint 
Paul.  Under  its  able  management  the  Globe  has 
attained  the  position  of  the  leading  Democratic 
journal  of  the  Northwest. 

The  Daily  News,  founded  in  December,  1887,  is 
the  junior  member  of  the  Saint  Paul  daily  press.  In 
February,  1892,  its  control  passed  to  the  News  Publish- 
ing Company,  of  which  Clarence  E.  Sherin  is  the 
president  and  general  manager.  It  was  originally  a 
sheet  of  four  pages,  but  is  now  composed  of  eight 
and  on  Saturdays  of  sixteen  pages.  Independent  in 
politics,  it  is  earnest  in  its  advocacy  of  measures 
promotive  of  the  public  good.  The  great  increase 
of  its  circulation  has  rendered  necessary  an  enlarge- 
ment of  its  premises  and  an  important  addition  to  its 
plant.  It  has  already  attained  a  well-recognized 
standing  as  a  purveyor  of  news  and  an  index  of  public 
opinion. 

The  current  literature  of  Saint  Paul  is  not  con- 
fined to  the  daily  press.  Some  of  its  ablest  period- 
icals are  published  in  the  form  of  weeklies  and 
monthlies,   and  cater  to  the  wants  of   the    citizen 


275 

under  various  titles.  Herein  the  threads  of  history> 
science,  and  art  are  woven  into  Northwestern  life. 
The  numerous  departments  of  industry  are  well 
and  faithfully  represented,  while  room  is  found  to 
minister  to  the  religious  sentiment  of  the  various 
churches. 

Among  the  weekly  publications  of  Saint  Paul  the 
following  may  be  enumerated:  The  Herald,  Jour- 
nal of  Commerce,  Northwestern  Chronicle,  Trade 
Reporter,  West  Saint  Paul  Times,  and  others  of 
equal  merit.  The  monthlies  and  bi-monthlies  are 
probably  still  more  numerous  and  varied,  including 
the  Northwestern  Magazine,  Booh  Talk,  Financia* 
News,  Odd  Felloiv,  Woman's  Record,  and  North 
western   Farmer. 

There  are  many  points  of  interest  and  places  of 
resort  in  and  around  Saint  Paul,  among  which 
Carver's  Cave,  Fountain  Cave,  White  Bear  and  Bald 
Eagle  lakes  are  the  most  frequently  visited. 

On  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  near  the 
shore,  and  within  the  city  limits,  is  the  celebrated 
Carver's  Cave,  which  is  reached  by  an  opening  in 
Dayton  Bluff.  It  was  in  the  interior  of  this  cave 
that  Captain  Carver  made  his  famous  treaty  with  the 
Dakota  Indians.  He  describes  it  as  a  "remarkable 
cave  of  amazing  depth,  having  an  entrance  about  ten 
feet  wide,  and  an  arch  within  about  fifteen  feet  high 
and  about  thirty  broad,  the  bottom  consisting  of  clear 
white  sand." 

Concerning  the  lake  and  some  other  features  which 
constitute  striking  peculiarities  of  this  cave,  Carvei 
doubtless  gave  more  or  less  exaggerated  accounts, 
still,  in  view  of  the  fact  that  he  had  no  instruments 
or  other  means  of  taking  measurements,  it  is  perhaps 


276  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

after  all  not  strange  that  he  differs  materially  from 
the  figures  given  by  more  recent  investigation.  Con- 
tinuing his  description  of  the  cave,  he  explains  that 
about  thirty  feet  from  its  entrance  he  came  to  a 
lake,  the  water  of  which  was  transparent  and  extended 
to  an  indefinite  distance.  Being  unable  to  acquire  a 
correct  knowledge  of  its  dimensions,  he  says:  "I 
threw  a  pebble  toward  the  interior  part  of  it  with 
my  utmost  strength;  I  could  hear  that  it  fell  into 
the  water,  and  notwithstanding  it  was  of  a  small  size, 
it  caused  an  astonishing  noise  that  reverberated 
through  all  these  gloomy  regions.  I  found  in  this 
cave  many  Indian  hieroglyphics,  which  appeared  very 
ancient,  for  time  had  nearly  covered  them  with  moss, 
so  that  it  was  with  difficulty  I  could  trace  them. 
They  were  cut  in  a  rude  manner  upon  the  inside 
of  the  wall,  which  was  composed  of  a  stone  so 
extremely  soft  that  it  might  be  easily  penetrated 
with  a  knife." 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  while  Carver  found  suffi- 
cient excuse  for  complaining  that  Hennepin  and 
La  Hontan  were  often  in  error  as  to  their  estimates, 
he  was  frequently  wide  of  the  mark  himself  in  many 
of  his  calculations,  and  those  who  visit  Carver's  Cave 
to-day  will  hardly  reconcile  their  own  view  to  that 
portrayed  by  its  famous  discovere" 

Fountain  Cave  is  two  miles  from  the  city,  and 
derives  its  name  from  a  small  stream  which  flows 
through  it,  and  which,  doubtless,  was  the  originating 
cause  of  the  cave.  It  contains  several  chambers, 
some  of  ample  dimensions,  and  it  is  said  that  at  one 
thousand  feet  from  the  opening  in  the  rock  no  termi- 
nation has  yet  been  discovered.  The  rock  is  of  pure 
white,  soft  sandstone,  and  the  entrance  to  the  cave 


(277) 


278  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

about  fifteen  feet  in  width.  About  three  hundred 
feet  from  its  mouth  a  cascade,  some  twenty  feet  in 
height,  falls  into  the  stream.  This  cave  is  a  favorite 
retreat  during  the  summer  months,  and  presents 
many  features  of  interest  to  the  geologist. 

White  Bear  Lake,  twelve  miles  from  Saint  Paul, 
and  about  an  equal  distance  from  Minneapolis,  is 
already  a  popular  pleasure  resort.  This  lake  is  about 
four  miles  in  length,  and  nearly  midway  between  its 
eastern  and  western  shores  is  a  long  forest-covered 
islet.  The  water  of  the  lake  is  clear,  pure,  and  of 
the  color  of  the  bright-blue  sky  overhead. 

The  largest  fleet  of  sailing  yachts  to  be  found  on 
any  western  lake  is  seen  floating  on  White  Bear, 
many  of  them  costly  and  of  elegant  construction. 
Large  hotels  have  been  erected  on  the  eastern  and 
southern  banks  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors, 
while  picturesque  villas  dot  its  western  shore,  owned 
chiefly  by  wealthy  business  men  of  Saint  Paul  and 
Minneapolis,  who  send  their  families  here  to  reside 
during  the  summer,  and  join  them  each  evening  after 
tlie  close  of  business. 

White  Bear  is  the  oldest  summer  resort  in  the 
State,  and  "camping  out"  on  its  shores  is  reduced  to 
a  science.  We  found  several  encampments  near  the 
lake  large  enough  to  be  called  villages,  many  of  the 
tents  being  as  commodious  and  comfortably  furnished 
as  the  parlors  and  bedrooms  of  a  well-ordered  city 
residence. 

Bald  Eagle  Lake  lies  a  mile  beyond  White  Bear. 
Tt  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  but  not  so  large  as  the 
latter.  It  has  high  banks  and  is  well  stocked  with 
several  varieties  of  fish,  which  have  made  it  quite 
famous  in  this  particular.     A  few  pretty  cottages 


279 

have  been  built  here  and  occupied  as  summer  resi- 
dences. Some  years  since  a  mineral  spring  was  dis- 
covered a  short  distance  from  the  lake  and  a  pavil- 
ion erected  over  it  by  the  late  Dr.  Post  of  Saint  Paul, 
who  also  built  a  summer  home  near  by. 

In  the  country  adjacent  to  White  Bear  and  Bald 
Eagle  there  are  numerous  smaller  lakes,  which  are 
frequently  sought  by  those  who  delight  in  fishing 
and  duck  hunting.  The  city  park  and  race- 
course are  located  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Como,  two 
miles  from  the  center  of  Saint  Paul. 

MINNEAPOLIS. 

Having  viewed  Saint  Paul  and  its  surroundings,  we 
now  proceed  to  a  brief  description  of  its  sister  city. 
Saint  Anthony,  now  within  the  corporate  limits  of 
Minneapolis,  saw  its  beginning  in  December,  1849,  u 
although  a  single  log  cabin  stood  upon  its  site  twelve 
years  before  this  date.  The  first  dwelling  in  Minne- 
apolis proper  was  erected  during  the  same  winter  by 
Colonel  John  H.  Stevens,  who  had  served  with  dis- 
tinction under  Scott  and  Taylor  in  Mexico.  When 
his  services  were  no  longer  required  upon  the  tented 
field,  this  gallant  soldier  sought  a  home  on  the 
frontier,  and,  proceeding  to  Minnesota^  built  his  rustic 
cottage  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi  near  the 
Falls  of  Saint  Anthony. 

The  name  "  Minneapolis"  is  compounded  of  Indian 
and  Greek — Minne  being  the  Sioux  for  water,  and 
pohs  the  Greek  for  city,  thus  signifying  the  Water 
City,  or  City  of  Waters.  In  a  lecture  before  the 
Minneapolis  Lyceum  in  1855,  Colonel  Stevens  said: 

"  One  of  our  early  and  most  perplexing  difficulties 
was  the  selection  of  a  name  for  our  embryo  city. 


280  DISCOVERY   OF  TltJE  tRtTE  SOURCE. 

Colonel  James  M.  Goodhue  thought  ( All  Saints '  to 
be  a  good  name.  Miss  Mary  Schofield  wrote  many 
letters  for  publication  in  Eastern  papers  and  always 
dated  from  '  All  Saints/  At  our  first  claim  meeting 
in  1851,  ( Lowell '  was  adopted.  At  a  public  meeting 
in  November  of  that  year  our  entire  population  was 
present  and  we  hit  upon  ( Albion/  This  name  the 
citizens  soon  got  tired  of,  and  at  last  as  a  compromise 
it  was  left  to  George  D.  Bowman,  editor  of  the  Saint 
Anthony  Express.  Mr.  Bowman  proposed,  i  Minne- 
apolis/ which  met  some  opposition  at  first,  but  he 
came  out  every  week  with  an  article  in  his  paper  on 
6  Minneapolis/  and  all  finally  swallowed  it." 

Whatever  may  be  said  of  the  various  names  which 
were  suggested,  discussed,  and  applied  to  this  growing 
metropolis  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  it  is  now  uni- 
versally admitted  that  Minneapolis  is  a  happy  com- 
bination of  the  native  Sioux  and  classic  Greek,  and 
beautifully  expresses  the  idea  which  its  author 
desired  to  convey. 

Minneapolis  is  located  on  what  was  formerly 
known  as  the  Military  Reserve  of  Fort  Snelling,  a 
tract  of  land  nine  miles  square,  assigned  to  and  sur- 
rounding the  fort  for  purposes  of  forage.  In  1855 
Congress  granted  the  right  of  pre-emption  to  the 
settlers,  since  which  its  growth  has  been  most 
remarkable.  The  city  proper  is  situated  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  while  Saint  Anthony,  which 
was  united  to  it  by  mutual  agreement,  is  on  the 
east  side,  the  two  forming  one  city  under  the  name 
of  Minneapolis. 

Minneapolis  is  ten  miles  above  Saint  Paul  and  is 
built  on  a  broad  esplanade  overlooking  the  river  and 
its  falls,  rapids,  and  picturesque  bluffs.     The  streets 


tttfl  f'TWlN    CITIES.^  2§1 

are  generally  laid  out  at  right  angles  eighty  feet 
in  width,  bordered  by  sidewalks  twenty  feet  wide, 
with  double  rows  of  trees  on  each  side  throughout 
the  residence  portion  of  the  city.  The  founders  of 
Western  cities  have  gained  wisdom  from  the  mistakes 
of  those  of  the  Eastern  coast.  Notwithstanding  the 
broad  expanse  of  country,  which  to  the  early  colonists 
seemed  limitless,  the  cities  and  towns  built  on  and  near 
the  Atlantic  seaboard  were  modeled  upon  European 
plans,  even  to  the  narrow  streets  and  compact  rows 
of  buildings.  Not  so  in  the  West.  The  original 
plans  of  our  Western  towns  are  so  wisely  designed 
that  no  future  increase  of  population,  with  its  attend- 
ant demands  for  dwelling  and  business  houses,  can 
ever  transform  them  into  an  aggregation  of  dense, 
stifling  streets  and  lanes,  such  as  are  too  often  found 
in  most  of  our  Eastern  cities.  Health  and  beauty  are 
two  objects  which  have  been  kept  steadily  in  view  in 
their  foundation.  Though  their  rude  beginnings 
have  not  always  been  attractive,  the  possibilities  of 
beauty  are  always  there,  and  time  is  sure  to  develop 
them. 

A  suspension  bridge  connecting  Saint  Anthony 
with  Minneapolis  was  built  in  1855.  It  was  not  only 
the  first  bridge  built  in  Minnesota,  but  was  also  the 
first  to  span  the  Mississippi.  A  ferry-boat  established 
here  in  1851  brought  its  proprietor,  that  summer, 
three  hundred  dollars.  In  1855,  the  receipts  from 
this  ferry  had  increased  to  twelve  thousand.  The 
population  of  the  united  towns  amounted  to  over  a 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  in  1890,  with  the  certain 
prospect  of  doubling  and  even  trebling  these  figures 
in  a  very  few  years.  The  river  here  is  about  six  hun- 
dred yards  in  width,  and  above  Saint  Anthony  Falls 


282  DISCOVERY  OF  THE   TRUE  SOURCE. 

rushes  through  low  banks  in  foaming,  tremulous 
rapids,  until  it  reaches  the  precipice,  whence  it 
springs  in  a  single  leap  down  a  distance  of  sixteen 
feet.  Thence  it  proceeds  in  a  series  of  rapids  over 
piles  of  rock  in  its  bed  for  several  hundred  yards, 
the  great  descent  of  eighty-two  feet  being  made  in  a 
little  less  than  two  miles.  Below  the  Falls  the  cliffs 
are  bold  and  picturesque,  the  character  of  the 
scenery  varying. 

Concerning  the  height  of  the  Falls  and  the  breadth 
of  the  river  at  this  point,  much  incorrect  information 
has  been  published.  Hennepin,  who  was  the  first 
white  man  to  visit  the  spot,  states  them  to  be  from 
fifty  to  sixty  feet  high.  It  was  this  explorer  who 
gave  them  the  name  which  they  now  bear,  in  honor 
of  Saint  Anthony  of  Padua,  whom  he  had  taken  for 
the  protection  of  his  discovery.  Carver  reduces  their 
height  to  about  thirty  feet.  His  strictures  upon  Hen- 
nepin, however,  whom  he  charges  with  exaggeration, 
might  with  propriety  be  retorted  upon  himself,  and 
we  feel  strongly  inclined  to  speak  of  this  daring 
adventurer  as  he  spoke  of  his  predecessor:  "The 
good  Father,  I  fear,  too  often  had  no  other  founda- 
tion for  his  accounts  than  report,  or,  at  most,  a 
slight  inspection."  Lieutenant  Pike,  who  is  more 
accurate  than  any  traveler  whom  we  have  followed, 
states  the  perpendicular  fall  to  be  sixteen  and  a  half 
feet.  It  was  again  measured  in  1817,  with  a  plumb- 
line,  from  the  table  rock  from  which  the  water 
was  falling,  and  found  to  be  the  same.  The  meas- 
urement at  this  time  was  made  with  a  rough  water- 
level,  which  made  it  about  fifteen  feet.  The  dif- 
ference of  a  foot  is  trifling  and  might  depend  upon 
the  place  where  the  investigation  was  made;  but  we 


THE   "IWLN-   CITIES/*  283 

can  not  account  for  the  statement  made  by  School- 
craft that  the  river  has  a  perpendicular  pitch  of 
forty  feet,  and  this  as  late  as  fourteen  years  after 
Pike's  measurement. 

The  breadth  of  the  river  near  the  brink  of  the  fall 
is  five  hundred  and  ninety-four  yards.  Below  the 
fall  it  contracts  to  about  two  hundred  yards.  There 
is  a  considerable  rapid  both  above  and  below,  and  a 
portage  of  two  hundred  and  sixty  poles  in  length 
was  usually  made  here  in  pioneer  days.  The  differ- 
ence of  level  between  the  place  of  disembarking  and 
reloading  was  stated  by  Pike  to  be  fifty-eight  feet, 
which  is  undoubtedly  very  near  the  truth.  The 
entire  fall  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  which  extend 
down  the  river  several  miles,  may  be  estimated  at 
about  one  hundred  feet. 

The  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony  are  not  without  a 
legend  to  hallow  their  scenery  and  enhance  the 
interest  which  of  themselves  they  are  well  calculated 
to  awaken.  The  following  tragic  story  was  current 
some  years  ago  among  the  Indians  and  white  settlers 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Falls:  A  Chippewa  girl, 
bearing  the  name  of  Ampato  Sapa,  which  signifies 
"The  Dark  D ay ,"  was  wedded  to  an  Indian  of  the 
Dakota  tribe.  Ampato  was  not  beautiful  but  young 
and  proud,  and  the  mother  of  two  lovely  children. 
For  several  years  they  lived  together  happily,  and 
both  doted  on  their  little  ones  with  a  depth  of  feeling 
seldom  equaled  by  more  civilized  races.  Becoming 
great  as  a  hunter,  the  husband  of  Ampato  was  con- 
sidered a  man  of  importance,  and  many  of  the  sur- 
rounding families  sought  his  friendship  and  protection, 
and  shared  the  products  of  his  chase.  Some  of  them, 
anxious  to  strengthen  their  interest  with  the  success- 


284  DISCOVERY  Ofc  fiJE  TRtTE  SOtTRCE. 

ful  hunter,  urged  him  to  form  a  connection  with 
their  family,  telling  him  that  a  second  wife  was  indis- 
pensable to  a  man  of  his  standing,  who  would 
probably  soon  be  acknowledged  as  a  chief.  The 
daughter  of  an  influential  man  was  finally  presented 
to  him,  and,  animated  with  the  desire  of  attaining  to 
high  honor  in  his  nation  by  a  union  with  the  daugh- 
ter of  a  man  of  influence,  he  took  a  second  wife  with- 
out mentioning  the  subject  to  the  young  mother  of 
his  children.  Desirous  of  conciliating  his  first  wife, 
for  whom  he  still  retained  much  regard,  he  intro- 
duced the  subject  to  her  in  these  words: 

"  You  know,  Ampato,  that  I  can  love  no  woman 
so  fondly  as  I  do  you.  With  deep  regret  I  have  seen 
you  subjected  to  toils  which  must  be  oppressive  and 
from  which  I  would  gladly  release  you,  yet  I  know  of 
no  other  way  of  doing  so  than  by  associating  with 
you  in  the  duties  of  our  household  one  who  shall 
relieve  you  from  the  trouble  of  entertaining  the 
numerous  guests  whom  my  growing  importance  in 
the  nation  collects  around  me.  I  have  therefore 
resolved  upon  taking  another  wife,  but  she  shall 
always  be  subject  to  your  control." 

With  the  deepest  concern,  his  wife  listened  to  this 
unexpected  announcement.  She  remonstrated  with 
him  in  the  kindest  terms,  and  tearfully  entreated,  by 
every  consideration  her  devoted  love  could  su ggeoi;, 
that  he  would  not  let  another  take  her  place  in  his 
affections.  The  Indian,  with  much  duplicity,  still 
concealed  from  her  the  secret  of  his  marriage  with 
another,  while  she  put  forth  her  strongest  appeals  in 
the  effort  to  convince  him  that  she  was  equal  to  the 
tasks  imposed  upon  her.  She  pleaded  all  the  endear- 
ments of  their  past  life,  dwelling  on  his  former  fond- 


THE   "TWIK   CITIES."  285 

ness  for  her,  his  regard  for  her  happiness  and  that 
of  their  children,  and  cautioned  him  to  beware  of 
the  consequences  of  uniting  himself  to  a  woman  of 
whom  he  knew  very  little.  Finding  her  still  opposed 
to  his  wishes,  he  at  length  informed  her  that  further 
opposition  on  her  part  was  useless,  as  he  had  already 
selected  another  partner;  and  that  if  she  could  not 
receive  his  new  wife  as  a  friend,  she  must  receive  her 
as  an  encumbrance,  for  he  had  resolved  she  should 
reside  with  him. 

Deeply  distressed  at  this  information,  she  stole 
away  from  the  cabin  with  her  infant  and  fled  to  her 
father.  She  remained  with  him  for  a  time,  until 
some  Indians  with  whom  he  lived  went  up  the  Mis- 
sissippi on  a  winter  hunt.  "When  they  returned  in 
early  spring,  with  their  canoes  loaded  with  skins, 
they  encamped  near  the  Falls.  After  they  had  left 
in  the  morning,  Ampato  lingered  near  the  spot,  and 
soon  launching  a  light  canoe,  entered  it  with  her 
babes.  She  paddled  down  the  stream  chanting  her 
death-song.  Her  friends  saw  her  only  too  late,  and 
their  attempts  to  arrest  her  progress  were  of  no  avail. 
She-  was  heard  to  sing  in  doleful  strain  of  the  past 
happiness  she  had  enjoyed  while  she  was  the  sole 
object  of  her  husband's  affections.  Finally  her  voice 
was  drowned  in  the  roar  of  the  cataract;  for  a 
moment  the  canoe  and  its  hapless  freight  trembled 
on  the  brow  of  the  watery  precipice,  and  in  an  instant 
more  mother  and  children  were  lost  forever  in  the 
foam  below. 

"Yet,  that  Death-Song,  they  say,  is  heard 
Above  the  gloomy  waters'  roar, 
Wheu  trees  are  by  the  night-wind  stirred, 
And  darkness  broods  o'er  wave  and  shore." 


286  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

The  Falls  are  divided  by  Cataract  Island,  from 
which  a  dam  has  been  constructed  to  the  eastern 
shore  to  furnish  water-power  for  manufacturing  pur- 
poses, and  nearly  the  whole  volume  of  water  now 
rushes  through  the  western  channel.  The  Falls  may 
be  seen  with  equal'  advantage  from  either  shore,  but 
the  best  view  is  obtained  from  the  center  of  the  sus- 
pension bridge  which  crosses  the  river  above  them 
and  from  which  the  rapids  may  be  seen  boiling  and 
rushing  immediately  beneath. 

These  Falls  furnish  abundant  power  for  manu- 
facturing purposes,  and  as  early  as  1856,  large  mills 
were  already  in  operation  at  Saint  Anthony,  in  which 
millions  of  feet  of  lumber  were  annually  sawn.  The 
logs  which  fill  the  Mississippi  above  the  Falls,  some- 
times even  to  the  point  of  obstructing  navigation, 
all  have  their  destination  at  Minneapolis.  Here  they 
are  converted  into  lumber  and  laths  and  sent  to 
distant  sections  of  the  country,  perhaps  in  the  form 
of  huge  rafts  again  set  afloat  upon  the  river.  The 
lumber  business  of  this  city  is  immense,  probably 
exceeding  that  of  any  other  city  in  the  country.  It 
is  equaled  only  by  the  flour-mills  of  this  rapidly 
growing  western  giant. 

Although  originally  termed  the  "City  of  Waters," 
Minneapolis  is  to-day  more  widely  known  as  the 
"Flour  City,"  owing  to  its  numerous  flour-mills 
which  now  line  both  banks  of  the  river  from  the 
southern  to  the  extreme  northern  limit  of  the  city. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  Minneapolis  stands  at  the 
head  of  the  flour  manufacturing  of  the  world.  She 
certainly  has  no  equal  in  this  particular  in  this 
country  or  Europe.  The  wheat  raised  in  such 
immense  quantities  on  neighboring  farms  is  ground 


FALLS   OF    MINNEHAHA. 
(287) 


288  DISCOVEEY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

into  flour  and  shipped  to  every  corner  of  the  habitable 
globe. 

The  tourist  who  visits  the  "Twin  Cities "  will  dis- 
cover at  a  glance  that  Minneapolis  is  more  a  manufact- 
uring than  a  commercial  city.  Saint  Paul  monopolizes 
much  of  the  commerce  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  as 
steamboats  can  only  ascend  to  Fort  Snelling,  some 
miles  below  the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony,  hence  Minne- 
apolis depends  largely  upon  the  railroads  for  trans- 
portation. But  while  Saint  Paul  measures  miles  of 
streets  lined  with  stores  and  warehouses,  the  "  Flour 
City"  exhibits  an  equal  number  of  mills  and  factories. 

Minneapolis  is  a  city  of  beautiful  homes,  and  it  is 
perhaps  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  few,  if  any,  of 
our  American  cities  present  greater  natural  attractions. 
The  streets,  as  we  have  said,  are  broad  and  amply 
shaded,  and  the  residences  are,  many  of  them,  very 
handsomely  built,  and  surrounded  by  ornamental 
gardens. 

The  University  of  Minnesota  is  located  here,  and 
there  are  also  several  other  important  educational 
institutions;  while  the  public  schools  are  in  every 
respect  among  the  best  in  the  country.  Of  her 
libraries,  the  Athenaeum  ranks  first,  having  an  excel- 
lent and  commodious  reading-room,  and  on  its  shelves 
over  twenty  thousand  volumes;  the  University  pos- 
sesses a  library  of  several  thousand,  chiefly  works  of 
a  scientific  character.  There  are  over  a  hundred 
churches  of  all  denominations,  and  some  of  the  sacred 
edifices  are  very  elegant  structures. 

The  press  of  Minneapolis  is  not  among  the  least 
of  the  latter's  claims  to  distinction.  It  is  in  most 
respects  on  a  par  with  that  of  cities  many  times  its 
size,  its  editors  and  managers  being,  for  the  most  part, 


THE   "TWIN   CITIES/'  289 

men  of  large  and  liberal  views,  and  writers  of  expen 
ence,  judgment,  and  tact.     The  dailies  supply  all 
the  news  up  to   the  latest  moment  of  going  to  press, 
and  the  editorials,  as  a  rule,  are  tolerant  yet  earnest 
in  dealing  with  local,  state,  or  national  issues. 

Almost  coeval  with  the  city  itself  is  the  Minne- 
apolis Tribune,  an  important  journal,  founded  in 
1806.  It  is  a  morning  paper,  and  publishes  also  a 
noon  and  an  evening  edition.  In  1877,  the  plant 
was  purchased  by  David  Blakely,  whose,  energy  and 
tact  may  be  said  to  have  laid  the  foundation  of 
its  ultimate  success  as  an  exponent  of  Republican 
principles  and  a  purveyor  of  cosmopolitan  news. 
Blakely  was  joined  by  General  A.  B.  Nettleton,  who 
took  a  half  interest  in  the  paper  in  1884.  These 
gentlemen  sold  out  to  A.  J.  Blethen  of  the  Kansas 
City  Journal,  and  AV.  E.  Haskell,  son  of  E.  B. 
Haskell,  editor  and  joint  proprietor  of  the  Boston 
Herald.  In  1888  Haskell  purchased  the  interest  of 
of  his  partner,  and,  in  conjunction  with  Charles  M. 
Palmer  of  the  Northwestern  Miller,  assumed  entire 
control  of  the  paper.  In  the  following  year  Haskell 
became  sole  proprietor,  C.  M.  Schultz  being  manag- 
ing editor.  The  ownership  is  now  vested  in  ex-Senator 
Gilbert  A.  Pierce  and  W.  J.  Murphy  of  Grand 
Forks,  North  Dakota.  These  gentlemen  are 
thoroughly  identified  with  the  newspaper  business, 
and  under  their  able  management  the  Tribune  has 
attained  a  great  success,  its  circulation  embracing 
Minnesota  and  extending  to  the  adjoining  States  of 
Wisconsin,  Iowa,  and  the  Dakotas. 

In  1890  the  Tribune  met  with  a  great  disaster,  its 
handsome  building  having  been  destroyed  by  lire. 
A  commodious  structure  has  since  been  erected,  and 

19 


290  DISCOVEEY    OF   THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

at  the  present  date,  1892,  the  paper  is  a  potent  factor 
in  all  that  concerns  the  interests  of  the  section  it 
represents. 

The  Evening  Journal  was  established  in  1878,  and 
has  attained  a  comparatively  wide  circulation.  In 
November,  1885,  it  passed  under  the  control  of  its 
present  management,  Lucius  Swift,  J.  S.  McLain, 
W.  E.  Brownlee,  and  W.  B.  Chamberlain.  In  poli- 
tics the  Journal  claims  to  be  independent,  with  a 
leaning  toward  Republicanism,  and  aims  to  mold 
public  opinion  upon  most  topics  of  general  interest. 
In  the  discussion  of  social  and  public  questions  it 
expresses  its  views  fearlessly,  and  occasionally  with 
effect.  Its  news  columns  are  supplied  by  the  Asso- 
ciated Press  and  the  United  Press,  and  furnish  liber- 
ally the  latest  intelligence  of  the  day  upon  every 
matter  of  importance  to  its  readers.  Special  corre- 
spondents throughout  Minnesota,  Wisconsin,  Michi- 
gan, Dakota,  Iowa,  and  in  the  East,  add  interest  to 
its  columns. 

The  Times  is  the  junior  member  of  the  Minneap- 
olis daily  press,  having  made  its  first  appearance 
October  first,  1889,  in  the  form  of  a  single  sheet.  Its 
growth  in  size  has  been  rapid  to  a  double  sheet  on 
week  days  and  a  sixteen-page  paper  on  Sundays.  The 
reports  of  the  Associated  and  United  Press  are 
utilized  in  its  news  columns,  while  a  large  number 
of  well-known  correspondents  in  most  of  the  prin- 
cipal cities  enliven  its  pages  with  well-written 
articles  on  general  topics  of  interest.  The  Times  is 
a  consistent  advocate  of  Democratic  principles,  and 
in  the  discussion  of  politics  and  social  questions  is 
uniformly  fair  and  liberal.  The  paper  is  owned  by 
a  company,  of  which  F.  G.  Winston  of  Minneapolis 


THE   "TWIN   CITIES."  &91 

is  the  president;  John  Blanchard,  a  gentleman  of 
large  experience  in  the  conduct  of  a  newspaper,  is 
editor-in-chief;  the  management  being  under  the  able 
supervision  of  Frank  L.  Thresher. 

Intellectually  and  materially,  Minneapolis  presents 
all  the  features  of  a  progressive  city,  and,  if  space 
permitted,  extended  reference  could  be  made  to  sev- 
eral of  its  numerous  weekly  and  monthly  publications, 
which  are  mostly  of  a  high  order,  and  contribute  to 
the  moral  and  physical  advantages  of  its  citizens. 
Prominent  among  the  weeklies  is  the  Northwestern 
Presbyterian,  under  the  able  editorship  of  Eev.  John 
B.  Donaldson,  D.D.;  the  Saturday  Spectator,  an 
admirably  conducted  paper,  replete  with  reliable 
information  upon  most  subjects  of  interest  to  the 
reading  public.  The  Mississippi  Valley  Lumberman, 
edited  by  J.  Newton  Nind,  is  the  representative  of 
the  immense  lumber  interests  of  the  Northwest.  The 
Northwestern  Miller,  of  vast  practical  utility  to  the 
milling  interest  and,  indirectly,  to  the  growers  of 
wheat.  The  Farmers9  Tribune;  the  Temperance 
Review;  the  Canadian- American,  and  others  with 
equal  claim  to  notice,  including  Sunday  German, 
Swedish,  and  Norwegian  weeklies. 

Among  the  leading  monthlies  are  the  Minnesota 
Farmer,  Mechanical  World,  Midland  Monthly,  and 
Housekeeper.  In  short,  the  journalism  of  this  mod- 
ern city  of  scarcely  a  half  century's  growth  would 
be  creditable  to  any  Eastern  city  of  its  size  and  thrice 
its  age. 

A  summer  resort  has  become  almost  indispensable 
to  many  during  the  heated  period  of  the  year.  Fail- 
ing health,  the  desire  for  change  from  city  life,  or 
the  demands  of  fashion,  seeks  some  favorite  watering- 


292  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

place  or  rustic  retreat  for  rest,  recuperation,  or  pleas- 
ure. These  are  found  in  the  East  at  more  or  less  con- 
siderable distances  from  the  principal  cities.  In  the 
Northwest  the  change  or  relief  is  found  within  easy 
reach  of  the  home,  and  no  cities  in  the  United  States 
are  more  happily  situated  in  this  respect  than  Saint 
Paul  and  Minneapolis.  Beautiful  lakes  and  scenery, 
at  comparatively  short  distances  from  either  city,  are 
reached  by  railway  or  electric  cars  within  the  space  of 
a  half  hour,  and  afford  all  the  rest  and  enjoyment 
tired  nature  craves,  or  that  is  obtainable  at  an  inland 
watering-place.  A  healthful,  invigorating  climate, 
surrounded  by  natural  beauty  and  facilities  for  bath- 
ing in  the  crystal  waters,  or  sailing  in  magnificently 
appointed  yachts  or  steamboats,  form  an  essential 
element  of  pleasure  and  relief  to  be  found  within,  or 
a  little  beyond,  the  city  limits.  The  summer  tourist 
can  here  indulge  in  the  delights  of  fishing  or  hunting. 
Points  of  special  beauty  and  interest,  gratifying  to  the 
senses,  are  numerous  in  the  neighborhood  of  these 
lakes,  and  a  month's  residence  on  their  banks  will 
not  exhaust  their  treasures  and  possibilities. 

We  have  before  alluded  to  the  system  of  beautiful 
lakes  easily  accessible  from  Saint  Paul,  but  those  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  Minneapolis  are  equally 
inviting  and  attractive,  and  in  the  opinion  of  some, 
still  more  so. 

Before  visiting  the  lake  resorts,  however,  we  have 
a  word  to  say  about  the  Falls  of  Minnehaha,  a  spot 
invested  with  romance  by  Longfellow's  poetical  allu- 
sion to  them  in  his  deathless  song  of  "Hiawatha," 
as  the  "Laughing  Water"  of  the  Indian.  These 
Falls  are  about  six  miles  in  a  southeasterly  direction 
from  the  city,  and  can  be  reached  by  railway  or  the 


THE   "TWIN   CITIES."  293 

electric  cars.  The  flow  reaches  them  through  a 
silvery  stream  which  issues  from  several  lakes  on 
the  western  and  southwestern  sides  of  the  city, 
and  that  of  the  large  and  beautiful  Minnetonka,  the 
current  itself,  having  passed  the  Falls,  winding  its 
way  to  the  Father  of  Waters.  The  height  of  the 
cataract  is  about  fifty  feet,  and  the  "Laughing 
Water "  plunges  over  a  semicircular  ledge  of  rock, 
while  a  cloud  of  spray  ascends  from  the  basin  beneath, 
and  together  they  produce  an  extremely  pleasing 
picture. 

Lakes  Harriet  and  Calhoun,  whose  proximity  to 
the  city  has  rendered  them,  perhaps,  less  select  than 
others  at  a  somewhat  greater  distance,  are,  neverthe- 
less, highly  attractive  as  resorts,  and  multitudes  of 
tired  citizens  flock  to  them  during  the  summer 
months  for  relaxation  and  pleasure.  Lake  Calhoun, 
the  nearest,  is  not  much  occupied  by  "campers/' 
probably  owing  to  its  want  of  seclusion.  Many 
summer  guests  take  rooms  at  the  Lyndale  Hotel  on 
the  margin  of  the  lake,  and  find  health  and  recrea- 
tion at  this  pleasant  retreat  so  conveniently  accessible 
from  the  city. 

Lake  Harriet,  about  a  mile  beyond  Lake  Calhoun, 
is  also  very  attractive.  A  large  number  of  pretty 
cottages  surround  it,  and  quite  a  number  of  well- 
appointed  tents,  made  habitable  and  comiortable  by 
their  tenants  for  the  season.  Fishing  in  this  lake  is 
invariably  productive  of  excellent  results. 

The  surrounding  scenery  is  picturesque  and  beauti- 
ful, the  air  pure  and  dry,  and  the  summer  heat 
rarely  exceeds  75°.  Pleasure-boats  float  on  the  sur- 
face of  tne  clear  water,  affording  agreeable  relief 
from  weariness  to  the  jaded  citizen  whose  temporary 


(294) 


THE  "TWIN   CITIES."  295 

home,  with  his  family,  is  on  the   bunks    of   pretty 
Lake  Harriet. 

Lake  Minnetonka,  in  point  of  extent,  far  exceeds, 
and  in  beauty  of  environment  is  nn approached  by, 
the  smaller  lakes  above  named.  This  is  the  favorite 
retreat  of  well-to-do  citizens  of  the  "Twin  Cities" 
and  tourists  in  search  of  the  beautiful.  It  is  only 
fifteen  miles  southwest  of  Minneapolis.  The  length 
of  the  lake  is  eighteen  miles  by  five  in  width. 
The  virgin  forest  surrounding  it  lends  enchantment 
to  the  scene,  and  shade  and  repose  are  found  by  the 
weary  tourist  or  transient  visitor  on  the  greensward 
beneath  the  foliage.  Small  villages  have  sprung  up 
on  the  banks  of  the  lake,  with  artistic  summer  cot- 
tages, villas,  and  handsome  hotels  in  their  near 
neighborhood.  The  woods  and  more  sequestered 
portions  of  Minnetonka  abound  with  pheasants, 
woodcock,  rabbits,  and  squirrels.  The  village  of 
Excelsior,  on  the  south  shore  of  the  lake,  eighteen 
miles  from  the  city,  was  incorporated  in  1879,  and 
has  a  haven  for  the  large  and  elegant  steamboats  that 
ply  on  its  waters.  Wayzata  rests  on  the  opposite 
shore,  and  is  fifteen  miles  distant  from  Minneapolis. 
Many  pretty  cottages  cluster  around  these  lake  vil- 
lages, and  several  fine  yachts  are  owned  by  the 
visitors — residents  of  Minneapolis  and  of  neighboring 
cities.  Strangers  from  outside  the  city,  and  from  a 
distance,  are  in  most  cases  quartered  at  the  hotels  and 
hostelries  overlooking  the  beautiful  lake.  Outdoor 
life  at  Minnetonka  can  be  indulged  in  and  enjoyed 
with  the  most  beneficial  hygienic  effects,  and  visitors 
from  all  parts  of  the  country,  with  impaired  vitality, 
come  during  the  summer  months  to  seek  and  find  the 
boon  of  restored  energies. 


VIEWS    OF    MINNEAPOLIS    IN    1891. 
(296) 


CHAPTER    VI. 

PREPARATION   FOR   SECOND    EXPEDITION. 

EARLY  a  month  was  spent  in  Minne 
apolis,  occupied  chiefly  in  correspond- 
ence with  those  whom  I  desired  to 
form  my  party,  and  in  such  other 
preparation  as  was  deemed  necessary 
to  place  the  expedition  on  a  practical 
footing. 

Preferring  the  companionship  and 
co-operation  of  those  who  were  naturally  interested  in 
the  geographical  problem  which  I  had  undertaken  to 
solve,  invitations  were  extended  to  many  eminent 
geographers  and  scientists  throughout  the  country, 
especially  to  those  who  had  doubts  as  to  the  propriety 
of  accepting  the  lake  beyond  Itasca  as  the  True 
Source  of  the  Mississippi.  This  correspondence  led 
to  the  acceptance  of  several  who  were  invited,  while 
some  others,  for  reasons  stated  in  their  replies,  were 
not  then  in  a  position  to  leave  for  so  long  a  period 
their  business  and  professional  duties. 

It  was  the  opinion  of  a  few  cavilers  that  our  expedi- 
tion would  not  include  any  who  were  not  thoroughly 
committed  to  my  views  on  the  question  of  the  Ulti- 
mate Source  of  the  Great  River.  This  supposition, 
however,  was  without  the  slightest  foundation,  and 
in  order  to  disabuse  the  mind  of  the  reader  at  once 
of  the  impression  that  I  could  have  been  in  any  sense 
partial  to  advocates  of  my  claim,  I  herewith  append 

(297) 


298  DISCOVERY   OF  THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

the  names  of  those  who  were  solicited  to  accompany 
me  to  the  Itascan  Basin,  many  of  whom  are  among 
our  leading  geographers,  map  and  educational  pub- 
lishers, who,  I  felt,  were  likely  to  be  more  or  less 
interested  in  the  objects  of  the  proposed  explorations. 
I  may  here  add  that  I  especially  desired  to  make  it 
clear  to  my  critics  that  I  courted  the  fullest  investi- 
gation, and  determined  that  no  pains  or  expense  should 
be  spared  to  insure  the  attainment  of  this  purpose. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  those  who  were  invited  to 
form  my  Second  Expedition,  or  send  representatives: 
Pearce  Giles,  Camden,  New  Jersey,  journalist;  Gen- 
eral E.  W.  Whitaker,  Washington,  late  chief  of  staff 
to  Generals  Custer,  Kilpatrick,  and  Sheridan;  Rev. 
John  Calvin  Crane,  Worcester,  Massachusetts;  Win- 
field  Scott  Shure,  York,  Pennsylvania,  artist  and 
journalist;  Fred  J.  Trost,  Toledo,  Ohio,  photographer; 
Rev.  George  A.  Peltz,  D.  D.,  LL.  D.,  Philadelphia; 
George  F.  Cram,  Chicago,  map  and  atlas  publisher; 
Rand,  McNally  and  Company,  Chicago;  Mathews, 
Northrup  and  Company,  Buffalo;  E.  H.  Butler  and 
Company,  Philadelphia;  Dr.  Jacques  W.  Redway, 
New  York,  editor,  Geographical  Magazine;  W.  H. 
Gamble,  Philadelphia,  geographer;  D.  S.  Knowlton, 
editor,  Boston  Times;  George  Thompson,  editor, 
Saint  Paul  Dispatch;  Alfred  James  Murphy,  secre- 
tary, Michigan  State  Senate;  J.  E.  Calkins,  city 
editor,  Democrat- Gazette,  Davenport,  Iowa;  N.  D. 
H.  Clark,  superintendent,  Station  C,  New  York  post 
office;  Hon.  D.  Sinclair,  postmaster;  editor,  Wi- 
nona Republican,  Minnesota;  Captain  A.  N.  Husted, 
professor  of  mathematics,  State  Normal  College,  Al- 
bany, New  York;  R.  G.  Thwaites,  secretary,  Wisconsin 
Historical  Society,  Madison;  Dr.  A.  Munsell,  editor, 


PREPARATION  FOR  SECOND  EXPEDITION.       299 

Trade  Journal,  Dubuque,  Iowa;  J.  L.  Smith,  map 
publisher,  Philadelphia;  Dr.  Charles  E.  Harrison, 
secretary,  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  Davenport, 
Iowa;  Prof.  II.  H.  Rassweiler,  geographer,  Chicago; 
William  M.  Bradley,  map  publisher,  Philadelphia; 
Charles  Ii.  Ames,  of  the  firm  of  D.  C.  Heath  and 
Company,  educational  publishers,  Boston;  George  H. 
Adams,  map  publisher,  New  York;  Charles  L.  Davis, 
editor,  Argus,  Eed  Wing,  Minnesota;  George  H. 
Benedict,  map  publisher,  Chicago;  Charles  Lubrecht, 
map  publisher,  New  York;  Prof.  H.  D.  Densmore, 
Beloit  College,  Wisconsin;  Prof.  W.  H.  Pratt,  Dav- 
enport Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  Iowa;  C.  B. 
Palmer,  attorney  at  law,  Saint  Paul,  Minnesota; 
Gaylord  Watson,  map  publisher,  New  York;  Albert 
W.  Whitney,  botanist,  Beloit  College,  Wisconsin; 
Hon.  W.  H.  II.  Johnston,  Saint  Paul;  Dr.  George 
Crocker,  Minneapolis;  A.  H.  Hubbard,  publisher,, 
Philadelphia;  Hon.  Samuel  Adams,  member  of  the 
Minnesota  Historical  Society,  Monticello,  Minnesota; 
Hon.  L.  A.  Evans,  Saint  Cloud,  Minnesota. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  several  colleges  and 
universities  were  also  invited  to  send  representatives; 
among  these  were  Oberlin  College,  Ohio;  Cornell 
University,  Ithaca,  New  York;  Beloit  College,  Wis- 
consin, and  the  University  of  Michigan.  Of  those 
who  responded  to  my  invitation  the  following,  and 
several  others  who  joined  us  at  Park  Eapids,  were 
duly  enrolled  as  members  of  the  expedition:  Pearce 
Giles,  Eev.  John  C.  Crane,  Winfield  Scott  Shure, 
Dr.  A.  Munsell,  Ered  J .  Trost,  Daniel  S.  Knowlton, 
Dr.  Charles  E.  Harrison,  Albert  W.  Whitney. 

As  some  zealous  critics  have  seen  fit  to  question 
the  qualifications  of  the  gentlemen  who  composed  my 


300  DISCOVERY  OF   THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

former  party,  it  has  been  suggested  that  it  might 
not  be  inappropriate  to  introduce  with  brief  reference 
the  companions  of  my  second  journey  to  the  Head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi.  I  therefore  conclude  to 
present  a  short  sketch  of  each,  which  is  done  with 
the  full  conviction  that  several  are  worthy  of  more 
extended  mention  than  can  consistently  be  accorded 
them  within  the  limits  of  this  volume. 

The  oldest  in  years  and  the  first  to  avail  himself 
of  my  invitation  was  Pearce  Giles,  formerly  of  London, 
England,  now  of  Camden,  New  Jersey.  Mr.  Giles, 
who  had  just  passed  his  seventy-fifth  year,  came  to 
America  over  twenty  years  ago.  His  father  was  an 
officer  in  the  British  navy,  and  himself  a  graduate 
of  the  Eoyal  Naval  College,  Greenwich,  near  London. 
He  was  thirty  years  in  the  Home  Department  of  the 
English  Government,  and  retired  with  a  handsome 
pension  in  1871.  He  has  traveled  extensively  in 
Europe,  Asia,  Africa,  and  America,  and  the  record  of 
his  observations  in  the  various  countries  he  has 
visited  constitutes  a  most  interesting  chapter  in  a 
long  and  eventful  life.  Although  not  an  active 
member  of  my  expedition  of  1881,  Mr.  Giles  accom- 
panied me  to  the  Upper  Mississippi,  assisted  in  the 
organization  of  the  party,  and  was  indirectly  identi- 
fied with  us  throughout. 

Kev.  John  Calvin  Crane  of  Worcester,  Massachu- 
setts, is  a  native  of  Grafton  in  that  State,  and  was 
born  October  sixteenth,  1837.  He  graduated  at  the 
Lancaster  Academy  at  the  age  of  sixteen,  and  soon 
after  was  recognized  as  a  special  correspondent  of  the 
Boston  Post.  Mr.  Crane  was  among  the  pioneers  of 
Minnesota,  having  been  a  resident  of  the  State  as 
early  as  1858.     A  year  or  two  later  he  returned  to 


PREPARATION   FOR   SECOND   EXPEDITION.       301 

the^  ' '  Bay  State,"  and  became  a  contributor  to  the 
Worcester  Gazette,  and  several  other  New  England 
publications.  He  is  a  member  of  the  Worcester 
Antiquarian  Society;  a  resident  member  of  the  New 
England  Historical  and  Genealogical  Society,  and  a 
member  and  correspondent  of  the  historical  societies 
of  Cheshire  and  Lancashire,  England.  From  boy- 
hood, Mr.  Crane  has  been  deeply  interested  in  every- 
thing relating  to  the  Mississippi  and  its  True  Source, 
and  joined  me  as  a  correspondent  of  the  Boston 
Herald. 

Winfield  Scott  Shure  is  a  native  of  Maryland,  but 
has  been  for  several  years  past  a  resident  of  York, 
Pennsylvania.  Mr.  Shure  is  a  young  man  of  con- 
siderable promise  as  an  artist  and  journalist.  He 
joined  me  as  the  representative  of  the  York  Daily 
Age  and  other  papers,  and  rendered  much  valuable 
assistance  in  the  organization  and  equipment  of 
our  expedition. 

Dr.  A.  Munsell  of  Dubuque,  Iowa,  is  a  native  of 
Kentucky,  a  man  of  mature  years,  the  editor  and 
proprietor  of  the  Dubuque  Trade  Journal,  and  a 
gentleman  of  comprehensive  literary  attainments. 
Kesiding  on  the  banks  of  the  mighty  river,  he  has 
been  for  many  years  greatly  interested  in  the  contro- 
versy relating  to  its  Headwaters,  and  the  columns 
of  his  paper  have  ever  been  open  to  all  who  were  dis- 
posed to  discuss  the  question  of  the  Fountain-head. 

Fred  J.  Trost  of  Toledo,  Ohio,  the  photographer 
of  the  expedition,  was  born  at  Volknitz,  Pomerania, 
Prussia,  March  sixteenth,  1852.  He  came  to  this 
country  with  his  parents  in  1854,  and  at  the  age  of 
sixteen  began  the  study  of  photography,  which  has 
since  been  his  occupation.     Mr.  Trost  has  been  con- 


302-  DISCOVERY   OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

nected  with  some  of  the  best  establishments  of.  the 
country,  and  for  many  years  has  been  a  member  of 
the  American  Photographers'  Association.  His  gal- 
lery at  Toledo  ranks  among  the  first  establishments 
of  its  kind  in  Ohio. 

Daniel  S.  Knowlton,  editor  and  proprietor  of  the 
Boston  Times,  was  born  in  Biddeford,  Maine.  Com- 
pleting a  preparatory  course  in  the  schools  of  his 
native  State,  he  entered  Yale  College  at  the  age  of 
eighteen,  from  which  he  graduated  four  years  later 
with  the  highest  honors  of  his  class.  Mr.  Knowlton 
is  a  young  man  of  advanced  attainments  in  most 
branches  of  learning,  and  his  long  journey  from 
Boston  to  Minnesota  sufficiently  attests  his  interest 
in  the  geographical  question  which  led  him  to  set 
aside  important  business  engagements  in  order  that 
he  might  join  us  in  our  investigations. 

Dr.  Charles  E.  Harrison,  formerly  president  and 
now  librarian  of  the  Davenport  Academy  of  Natural 
Sciences,  is  a  native  of  Kentucky,  but  has  been  for 
many  years  a  citizen  of  Iowa.  His  connection  with 
the  Academy  at  Davenport  brought  him  to  my 
notice,  and  I  found  him  an  enthusiast  upon  every 
topic  relating  to  the  natural  history  of  the  Valley  of 
the  Mississippi. 

Albert  W.  Whitney  of  Beloit,  Wisconsin,  is  a 
graduate  of  Beloit  College,  in  which  his  father, 
H.  N.  Whitney,  is  professor  of  English  Literature. 
Although  the  youngest  in  years,  Mr.  Whitney  pos- 
sesses many  excellent  qualifications  as  an  explorer, 
and  came  highly  indorsed  by  the  college  faculty  as  a 
botanist  and  arborologist. 

My  daughter  Alice,  who  had  just  graduated  from 
the   Saint   Agnes    School   at   Albany,   New    York, 


MEMBERS   OF    SECOND    EXPEDITION. 
(303) 


304  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE   SOURCE. 

pleaded  very  earnestly  to  be  allowed  to  accompany 
me.  I  hesitated  for  some  time,  but  at  length  yielded, 
on  her  assurance  that  she  was  confident  she  could 
endure  the  rigors  of  such  a  journey.  She  was 
anxious  to  stand  at  the  head  of  the  Father  of 
Waters,  and,  being  a  very  fair  artist  in  water  colors, 
l  felt  that  her  talent  might  prove  of  some  utility  to 
the  objects  of  the  expedition. 

Although  it  was  the  original  intention  to  complete 
our  organization  at  Minneapolis,  I  soon  ascertained 
that  from  an  economic  point  of  view  it  would  be  to 
our  advantage  to  secure  surveyors,  guides,  and  other 
assistants  in  Northern  Minnesota;  hence  only  a  portion 
of  those  who  accompanied  me  were  brought  together 
before  entering  upon  our  journey. 

The  route  decided  upon  was  by  way  of  the  Northern 
Pacific  Kail  way  to  Wadena,  and  thence  by  a  branch 
of  the  Great  Northern  to  Park  Kapids;  the  latter  road 
having  been  completed  but  a  few  days  before  our 
start  from  Minneapolis.  In  my  journey  across 
Northern  Minnesota,  in  1881,  the  Leech  Lake  route 
was  preferred  for  the  reason  that  the  region  between 
that  point  and  the  Source  of  the  river  had  not  been 
previously  traversed,  and  for  the  further  reason  that 
we  could,  at  that  time,  reach  our  destination  more 
readily  by  canoe  and  portage  through  that  section  of 
Minnesota  than  by  any  other.  Then,  too,  the  facili- 
ties now  presented  by  rail  and  wagon  for  the  trans- 
portation of  necessary  supplies,  via  Park  Rapids, 
were  an  important  consideration,  in  view  of  the  large 
party  I  had  brought  together,  and  rendered  that 
route  by  far  the  most  practicable. 

All  arrangements  having  been  completed,  we 
assembled  at  my  residence,  on  Harmon  Place,  Monday 


PREPARATION   FOR   SECOND   EXPEDITION.       305 

morning,  August  seventeenth,  where  we  discussed 
briefly  the  objects  of  our  expedition.  I  took  occa- 
sion at  this  time  to  say  that  our  party  was  the  largest 
ever  organized  for  purposes  of  investigation  at  the 
Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  and  sought  to  impress 
upon  the  minds  of  all  present  that  it  was  my  earnest 
wish  that  their  examination  of  that  region  should  be 
most  thorough  and  complete.  I  especially  recom- 
mended that  they  should  determine,  by  careful 
measurement,  the  relative  length  and  importance  of 
all  streams  falling  into  Itasca  and  the  beautiful  lake 
lying  immediately  to  the  south  of  it,  in  order  that 
they  might  be  prepared  on  their  return  to  submit  a 
clear  and  conclusive  verdict  as  to  the  True  Source  of 
the  Great  Eiver. 

My  re-appearance  in  Minnesota,  with  the  intention 
of  making  further  explorations,  led  the  press  of  the 
country  to  comment  more  or  less  freely  upon  the 
probable  outcome  of  my  proposed  expedition.  These 
expressions  of  public  opinion  may  be  deemed  worthy 
of  some  consideration,  inasmuch  as  they  discuss 
quite  fully  the  question  at  issue,  and  set  forth 
very  clearly  the  results  of  former  investigations; 
they  show,  also,  something  of  the  character  of  the 
opposition  which  I  have  had  to  contend  with  during 
the  past  ten  years.  In  view  therefore  of  all  that 
has  been  said  and  written  on  the  subject,  for  and 
against,  it  will  perhaps  be  thought  consistent  with 
the  purpose  of  this  volume  to  invite  attention  to  a 
few  quotations  from  articles  which  were  from  time 
to  time  brought  under  my  notice. 

The  Dispatch,  a  leading  journal  of  Saint  Paul, 
has  evinced  considerable  interest  in  the  location  of 
the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  since  the  date  of 

20 


306  DISCOVERY   OF   THE  TRUE    SOURCE. 

its  discovery  in  1881  has,  in  the  discussion  of  my 
claim,  yielded  it  a  fair,  temperate,  and  disinterested 
support.  Under  date,  July  twenty-third,  1891,  the 
Dispatch  had  the  following  editorial: 

"The  arrival  in  Saint  Paul  of  Captain  Glazier  has  revived 
interest  in  a  subject  which,  three  or  four  years  ago,  was  a 
topic  of  world  wide  discussion.  His  claim  to  have  discovered, 
in  1881,  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  while  accepted  by 
many,  was  denied  by  some,  and  doubts  were  thrown  upon 
the  accuracy  of  his  conclusions.  Even  yet  there  are  those 
who  will  not  admit  that  Lake  Glazier  is  the  Source  of  the 
Father  of  Waters.  Professor  Aiton  of  Minneapolis  has 
recently  expressed  himself  on  this  question,  disputing  Captain 
Glazier's  claim,  but  offering  no  satisfactory  solution  of  the 
problem. 

"  From  the  discovery  of  Lake  Itasca  by  Schoolcraft  in  1832, 
down  to  the  year  1881,  very  little  was  attempted  in  the  way  of 
exploration  at  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi.  In  the  latter 
year,  Captain  Glazier  organized  and  assumed  the  entire 
expense  of  an  expedition  which  had  for  ils  object  a  thon  ugh 
investigation  of  the  Itascan  Basin.  The  thought  had  long 
been  in  his  mind  that  if  Pike,  Cass,  and  Beltrami  had  been  in 
error  as  to  the  Source,  Schoolcraft  also,  might  have  been  mis- 
taken in  his  conclusions  as  to  Lake  Iiasca. 

"On  the  return  of  his  first  expedition,  Captain  Glazier 
announced  that  a  lake  above  and  beyond  Iiasca  was  the 
Primal  Reservoir;  asserted  that  it  had  not  been  so  recognized 
prior  to  1881 ;  and  claimed  that  his  party  was  the  first  to  cor- 
rectly locate  its  feeders  and  establish  its  true  relation  to  the 
Mississippi.  From  the  position  then  taken,  Glazier  has  never 
retreated,  and  to-day,  notwithstanding  the  opposition  of  a  few 
unreasoning  critics,  Lake  Glazier  is  accepted  as  the  True 
Source  of  the  Great  River  by  nine-tenths  of  the  geographers, 
map  and  educational  publishers  of  this  country." 

The  Albany  Knickerbocker  ranks  among  the  first 
journals  of  the  country  in  the  discussion  of  geo- 
graphical questions,  and  gave  much  attention  to  the 
results  of  my  First  Expedition.  In  one  of  its  articles, 
this  paper  observed: 

"Many  geographical  beliefs  have  in  course  of  time,  and  in 
the  advancement  of  knowledge,  been  proven  the  veriest 
myths.  It  was  for  some  ages  contended  that  there  was  no 
world  beyond  the  Pillars  of  Hercules.  It  has  taken  hundreds 
and  hundreds  of  years  to  arrive  at  the  most  simple  and  primi- 
tive truths.     Captain  Glazier  contends  that  he  has  exploded 


PREPARATION  FOR  SECOND  EXPEDITION.       307 

the  myth  1  hat  Itasca  is  the  source  of  the  Father  of  Waters. 
His  claim  is  supported  by  a  volume  of  expert  and  disinter- 
ested testimony,  and  the  gentlemen  composing  his  S  cond 
Expedition  will  doubtless  confirm  his  announcement  of  1881, 
that  the  origin  of  the  Mississippi  is  in  the  lake  to  the  south  of 
Itasca,  now  generally  known  and  accepted  by  geographers  as 
Lake  Glazier." 

Since  1881,  the  Argus  of  Ked  Wing,  Minnesota, 
has  steadfastly  maintained,  in  common  with  nearly 
all  the  leading  papers  of  the  State,  that  the  body  of 
water  which  my  party  located  in  that  year  should  be 
regarded  as  the  Head  of  the  Mississippi.  In  its  issue 
of  July  sixteenth,  1891,  the  Argus  spoke  as  follows: 

"  The  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River  does  not  appear 
to  be  a  settled  question,  even  though  the  Minnesota  Legislature 
has  decided  it,  so  far  as  it  was  able  by  law  to  do  so.  Captain 
Glazier  claimed  the  discovery  of  the  real  Head  of  ihe  river  in 
1881,  which  was  named  by  his  companions  Lake  Glazier. 
Lake  Itasca  had  for  many  years  bet  n  considered  the  source 
and  had  been  so  placed  on  the  maps,  but  the  lake  discovered 
by  Captain  Glazier  was  beyond  Itasca  and  flowed  into  it 
through  a  perennial  stream.  For  some  reason  a  few  of  the 
savants  of  our  Historical  Society  disputed  the  Glazier  claim, 
and  appe  ded  to  the  Legislature  for  an  enactment  to  preven' 
its  recognition.  Notwiths'anding  this  opposition,  however, 
our  leading  geographers  and  map  publishers,  as  well  as  most 
of  the  encyclopedias,  recognize  the  fact  that  Glazier  was  the 
real  discoverer  of  the  lake  now  called  after  him. 

"Captain  Glazier  is  about  to  organize  another  expedition  to 
the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  which  is  expected  to  leave 
Saint  Paul  this  month.  His  chief  object  in  making  a  second 
visit  is  to  obtain  sketches  and  photographs  of  sc<  nery  at  the 
source  of  the  river,  and  to  give  some  attention  to  the 
natural  history  of  the  surrounding  country,  as  well  as  to 
si  cure  additional  information  concerning  the  feeders  of  Lake 
Glazier.  An  artist,  photographer,  surveyor,  and  several  gen- 
tlemen of  scientific  attainments  will  be  members  of  the  expe 
dition.  These  gentlemen,  it  is  presum<  d,  will  be  fully  quali- 
fied to  pass  final  judgment  upon  the  claim  of  Captain 
Glazier  to  have  definitely  located,  in  1881,  the  True  Source  of 
the  Mississippi." 

The  Trade  Journal  of  Dubuque,  Iowa,  edited  by 
Dr.  A.  Munsell  of  that  city,  has  been  for  several 
years  an  ardent  participant  in  all  discussions  concern- 


308  DISCOVERY   OF   THE   HtUE    SOURCE. 

ing  the  Head  of  the  Great  Eiver.     In  its  July  issue 

of  1891  the  Journal,  in  referring  to  the  subject,  said: 

"  Since  the  discovery  and  announcement  of  Lake  Glazier  as 
the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  it  has  been  very  generally  recog- 
nized by  the  geographical  world  and  by  writers  in  the  later 
encyclopedias.  There  are  those,  however,  who  have  denied 
the  newly  asserted  faet,  and  have  even  taken  some  pains  to 
contradict  and  argue  against  the  propriety  of  according  it 
recognition.  It  is  often  difficult  to  sympathize  with  a  new 
truth  which  dispels  ihe  illusion  of  a  lifetime,  and  the  views, 
customs,  and  complacency  ingrained  by  education  and  habit. 
So,  when  called  upon  to  surrender  the  honor  that  has  for 
more  than  a  half  century  clung  to  the  Itasca  of  Schoolcraft, 
and  bid  good-by  to  the  associations  that  have  been  pleasantly 
connected  with  the  charming  Indian  word,  it  is  perhaps  little 
wonder  that  prejudice  and  conservatism  are  reluctant.  But 
truth  and  duty  have  no  heed  save  for  the  verities  of  the  actual, 
and  the  modern  day  is  a  time  when  the  white  light  of  science 
and  fact  is  allowed  to  fall  safely  and  freely  on  that  which  is  in 
the  realm  of  reality." 

Foremost  among  the  leading  newspapers  of  New 

England,    the   Boston   Herald  exhibited    its    usual 

enterprise  in  sending  a  special  correspondent  to  join 

us  in  Minnesota.     Commenting  on  my  proposed  visit 

to  the  Headwaters,  the  Herald  said: 

*  *  *  "Captain  Glazier  believed  thai  Schoolcraft  was  at  fault 
in  locating  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  in  Lake  Itasca,  and 
during  the  summer  of  1881  began  a  thor.  ugh  personal  investi- 
gation of  the  subject.  Standing  on  the  shore  of  the  beautiful 
heart-shaped  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca — the  Pokegama  of  the 
Chippewas — he  announced  to  the  geographical  world  the  fact 
that  the  True  Head  of  the  Father  of  Waters  was  there  to  be 
found.  A  geographical  error  had  existed  for  near.y  half  a 
century  and  it  was  hard  to  change  the  order  of  things.  Would- 
be  explorers,  and  geographers  unheard  of  before,  sprang  up  in 
a  night  and  sought  in  some  way  to  immorta  ize  their  names  in 
connection  therewith.  Some  denied  the  truth  of  Captain 
Glazier's  statements;  but  when  it  was  established  that  the 
position  he  had  taken  was  impregnable,  they  objected  to 
having  his  name  applied  to  the  lake.  It  was  in  opposition  to 
the  wishes  of  Glazier  that  his  name  was  given,  but  his  white 
and  Indian  companions  persisted  and  it  was  finally  adopted. 
So  firm  is  Captain  Glazier  in  the  conviction  that  his  position  is 
unassailable  that  he  will  lead  the  largest  party  of  gentlemen 
to  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  that  has  ever  visited  that 
region." 


PREPARATION   FOR   SECOND   EXPEDITION.        309 

The  Times  of  Philadelphia  has  devoted  much 
space  and  attention  to  the  Mississippi  and  its 
Source,  and  while  its  columns  have  been  open  to 
both  sides  of  the  controversy,  its  editorial  utterances 
have  been  clearly  in  support  of  the  lake  beyond 
Itasca  as  the  Primal  Reservoir.  In  its  issue  of  July 
twelfth,  1891,  the  Times  thus  referred  to  the  matter: 

"In  1881,  Captain  Willard  Glazier  organized,  equipped,  and 
led  a  party  through  Nonhern  Minnesot  t  for  the  purpose  of 
determining,  if  possible,  the  exact  location  of  the  Source  of 
the  Mississippi.  Under  the  guidance  of  a  Chippewa  Indian, 
named  Chenowagesic,  he  located,  on  the  twenty-second  of 
July  of  that  year,  a  beautiful  body  of  water  to  the  south  of 
Lake  Itasca,  having  an  average  depth  of  forty-five  feet,  a  cir- 
cumference of  between  five  and  six  miles,  and  an  area  of  255 
acres. 

"This  lake  was  known  to  the  Indians  as  Pokegama,  meaning 
*  the  place  where  the  waters  gainer.'  It  has  for  its  feeders 
thr  e  small  creeks  which  have  their  origin  in  springs  at  the 
foot  of  sand  hills  from  two  to  three  mile-  distant.  Afier  con- 
sultation, the  members  of  the  expedition  unanimously  voted 
that  this  body  of  water  be  named  Lake  Glazier,  after  the  man 
who  had  organized  the  expedition  and  led  them,  at  his  own 
expi  nse,  to  its  shore-:.  Since  that,  time  a  few  critics  have  seen 
fit  to  question,  doubt,  and  finally  declare  that  the  Fountain- 
head  of  the  river  is  in  Lake  Itasca;  that  there  was  no  such 
lake  as  Captain  Glazl  r  described;  or  if  there  was,  it  was  of 
little  consequence.  And  again,  if  such  a  sh-  et  of  water  did 
exis',  he  was  not  the  first  white  man  to  see  it.  Just  as  if 
Schoolcraft  was  the  first  white  man  who  saw  Lake  Itasca.  It 
should  not  be  a  question  of  'who  first  saw  it,'  but  'who  first 
discovered  its  relation  to  the  Mississippi.' 

"  1 1  vii  w  of  ihe  various  doubts  that  have  been  raised,  and  for 
the  purpose  of  satisfying  scien title,  educational,  and  all  other 
parties  who  take  any  interest  in  the  correction  of  error  and 
the  advancement  of  truth,  Captain  Glazier  is  now  fitting  out 
a  Second  Expedition.  This  party  will  be  composed  of  natu- 
ralists, surveyors,  artists,  photographers,  correspondents  of 
the  press  and  others  who  wish  to  look  upon  the  Source  of  our 
Great  Central  River.  The  country  will  be  carefully  examined, 
prominent  views  and  scenes  photographed,  and  levels  and 
measurements  taken.  The  botanist  and  geologist  will  report 
on  the  flora  and  formation  of  that  region.  It  is  confidently 
expected  that  the  Souice  of  the  Mississippi  will  be  established 
whliout  further  ea  il  or  dispute,  and  that  Captain  Glazier 
will  give  a  faithful  de-cr'ption  and  photographic  view  of  that 
hitherto    practically  unknown   section  of   Minnesota   which 


310  DISCOVERT  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

enjoys  the  distinction  of  embracing  the  Headwaters  of  the 
greatest  river  of  North  America." 

The  press  of  Minnesota,  with  but  two  or  three 
unimportant  exceptions,  favored  a  further  explora- 
tion, and  said  much  to  encourage  my  companions  in 
the  prosecution  of  their  self-imposed  task.  The 
Globe  of  Saint  Paul  took  an  active  interest  in  every- 
thing pertaining  to  the  controversy.  The  subjoined 
article  appeared  in  its  columns  under  date  of  August 
sixteenth,  1891: 

"  On  to-morrow,  August  seventeenth,  Captain  Glazier  will 
start  from  Minneapolis  with  his  Second  Expedition  to  the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi.  The  explorer  goes  with  the  deter- 
mination of  substantiating  his  claim  of  1881,  that  he  discov- 
ered, in  a  body  of  water  beyond  Itasca — since  known  as  Lake 
Glazier — the  True  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters.  Among 
those  who  will  accompany  him  in  his  later  visit  is  Rev.  J.  C. 
Crane  of  Worcester,  Massachusetts,  who  is  now  in  Saint  Paul. 
Speaking  of  the  expedition,  he  said: 

"'The  attention  of  a  large  portion  of  the  people  of  this 
country  is  at  present  directed  to  a  wild  and  unsettled  region 
of  Minnesota.  The  particular  locality  referred  to  is  that  lying 
about  the  Source  of  what  is,  in  many  respects,  the  greatest 
river  in  the  world.  The  complete  history  of  this  wonderful 
waterway,  if  written,  would  fill  volumes.  The  chief  reason 
for  the  interest  now  taken,  arises  from  investigations  made  at 
the  Headwaters  of  the  river  in  1881.  In  July  of  that  year, 
Captain  Willard  Glazier  led  a  party  by  a  new  and  untried 
route  to  a  lake  which  he  claimed  as  the  Ultimate  Source  of  the 
Mississippi. 

"  '  From  1832  to  1881,  the  statements  of  Schoolcraft  with 
regard  to  the  Fountain-head  of  the  miuhty  stream  were 
unquestioned.  The  announcement  by  Glazier  that  there  was 
a  beautiful  lake  above  and  beyond  Itasca  was  a  great  surprise 
to  the  geographical  world,  and  as  one  somewhat  versed  in  the 
geography  and  history  of  the  country,  I  became  interested  in 
his  claim  to  have  definitely  located  the  Origin  of  the  Great 
River.  I  had  been  an  early  pioneer  in  Minnesota— had 
journeyed  days  and  nights  on  the  pure  waters  of  the  Upper 
Mississippi.  As  a  hunter  I  had  sailed  its  tributaries  and 
camped  along  their  shores.  What  more  natural  than  that  I, 
although  no  longer  a  resident  of  the  State,  should  take  an 
interest  in  the  Source  of  her  ideal  river?  I  began  anew  the  study 
of  the  Mississippi  and  its  place  of  beginning.  I  investigated 
the  claim  of  Captain  Glazier  and  read  its  numerous  indorse- 


PREPARATION"  FOR  SECOND  EXPEDITION.       311 

merits.  I  digested  also  the  pamphlet  of  General  Baker,  and 
heard  and  read  of  the  progress  of  Mr.  Brower  in  that  locality, 
and  in  fact  made  a  thorough  study  of  all  the  reports  on  the 
question  of  the  True  Source  since  Glazier  announced  his  dis- 
covery in  1881.  One  thing  became  very  evident  to  my  mind, 
and  lhat  was  that  the  latter  gentleman  had  never  receded  in 
any  measure  from  the  position  first  taken,  which  was  that  the 
Founta'n-head  was  in  a  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  known  to 
the  Indians  as  Pokegama.  After  a  long  and  careful  ^tudy  of 
the  ques  ion,  and  heariog  all  the  pros  and  cons,  I  could  not 
help  the  belief  that  the  claim  put  forth  by  Captain  Glazier 
was  based  upon  careful  investigation  and  honest  conviction. 
I  had  never  seen  the  lake  of  Schoolcraft,  neither  had  I  looked 
upon  the  Pokegama  of  the  Chippewas,  but  I  had  seen  the  flow- 
ing stream  as  it  fell  in  beauty  over  the  Falls  of  Saint  Anthony, 
and  had  noted  its  onward  rush  to  the  Gulf,  three  thousand 
miles  away.  I  had  observed  with  what  tenacity  Glazier  clung 
to  his  announcement  of  1881.  The  thought  came  to  me,  this 
man  is  honest  in  his  premise*,  and  the  more  I  studied  the  sub- 
ject, the  more  I  became  satisfied  that  Lake  Glazier  answered 
all  the  requirements  of  geographers.  Upon  investigation,  I 
found  many  who  agreed  with  me  in  this  belief.  The  written 
testimony  of  eminent  educators,  map  publishers,  and  com- 
pilers of  encyclopedias  was  examined  with  care. 

"  '  Early  in  the  present  year,  rumors  of  another  expedition 
to  be  made  by  Captain  Glazier  reached  my  ear.  Later  an 
opportunity  was  presented  me  to  become  a  member  of  the 
party  of  gentlemen  who  are  to  leave  Minmapolis  to-mor- 
row to  ascertain  for  themselves  on  what  ground  Willard 
Glazier  bases  his  claim  to  have  definitely  located,  in  1881, 
the  True  S  urce  of  the  Mississippi  River.  So  strong  is  the 
captain  in  his  convictions  and  statements  then  m;ide,  that  he 
has  called  about  him  the  largest  and  most  influential  body  of 
men  that  has  ever  been  brought  together  for  this  purpose. 
As  an  humble  member  of  that  expedition,  I  go  with  the  honest 
purpose  of  seeing  for  myself  the  foundation  upon  which  I 
have  built  my  belief.  As  a  historian  of  some  repute  in  the 
'  Old  Bay  State,'  it  would  ill  become  me  to  give  my  sanction  to 
a  claim  which  upon  investigation  should  fail  to  uphold  opin- 
ions previously  expressed.'" 

Henry   R.   Cobb,  editor   of   the   Hubbard  County 

Enterprise  of  Park   Rapids,   Minnesota,  enjoys  the 

distinction  of  having  among  his  subscribers  several 

pioneers  whose  claim-cabins  are  within  a  few  miles 

of  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi.    In  referring  to  my 

First  and  Second  expeditions,  Mr.  Cobb  said  in  his 

paper: 


312  DISCOVERY   OF  THE  TRUE   SOURCE. 

"  On  the  twenty -second  day  of  July,  1881 — ten  years  ago  this 
summer — Captain  Glazier  passed  through  Lake  Itasca  into  a 
lake  beyond,  known  to  the  Indians  as  Po-keg-a-ma.  In  this 
body  of  water  he  believed  he  had  found  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi,  which  was  christened  Lake  Glazier  by  his  com- 
panions. Despite  the  criticisms  of  subsequent  expeditions 
Captain  Glazier  still  holds  to  his  convictions,  and  the  present 
party  go  for  the  purpose  of  adding  their  evidence  on  this  much 
discussed  question.  Whatever  their  decision  as  to  the  Cap- 
tain's claim,  the  latter  may  be  credit<  d  with  having  gathered 
together,  from  all  parts  of  the  Union,  a  body  of  men  win  se 
testimony  will  be  of  weight." 

From  the  time  that  Lake  Itasca  was  first  called  in 
question,  the  religious  press  of  Minnesota  manifested 
much  interest  in  the  controversy.  Of  these  publica- 
tions, the  Northwestern  Presbyterian  of  Minneapolis, 
gave  considerable  attention  to  the  subject.  Eef erring 
to  it  at  some  length,  this  journal  said  in  clear  and 
unmistakable  terms: 

"All  who  live  in  the  valley  of  America's  greatest  river  will  be 
especially  interested  in  knowing  something  of  its  Source,  its 
course,  and  the  cities  that  line  its  banks.  Since  De  Soto  first 
discovered  the  Father  of  Waters  in  1541,  many  eminent 
explorers  have  been  associated  with  its  history.  Marquette, 
Joliet,  La  Salle,  Hennepin,  La  llontan,  Charlevoix,  Caiver, 
Pike,  Cass,  and  Beltrami  preceded  Schoolcraft.  The  last 
named  discovered  a  lake  which  he  supposed  to  be  the  Source, 
but  the  Indians  and  missionaries  said  there  was  a  hike  beyond. 
A  learned  few  believed  then*.  It  remained  for  some  explorer 
to  make  further  investigation  and  puUish  the  truth  more 
widely  to  the  world.  This  was  done  by  Captain  Glazier  in 
1881,  who  visited  the  lake,  explored  its  shores,  and  found  it 
to  be  wider  and  deeper  than  Itasca." 

The  following  quotation  from  an  article  which 
appeared  in  the  Geographical  Nezvs,  is  from  the  pen 
of  its  publisher,  George  F.  Cram,  a  leading  geo- 
graphical authority  of  Chicago,  who,  I  should  con- 
clude from  his  interesting  and  exhaustive  treatment 
of  the  subject,  must  have  made  a  thorough  study  of 
everything  relating  to  the  question  of  the  Origin  of 
the  Great  Kiver: 

"In  1832,  Henry  Howe  Schoolcraft  traced  the  upper  courses 


PREPARATION    FOR   SECOND   EXPEDITION.       313 

of  the  Mississippi  and  believed  he  had  found  its  Source  in 
Lake  Itasca,  and  for  nearly  fifty  years  it  was  so  shown  on  our 
maps  and  in  our  geographies,  and  so  taught  in  our  schools. 
In  1881,  however,  Willard  Glazier  made  further  explorations, 
and  discovered  that  Itasca  was  connected  with  another  lake  by 
a  permanently  flowing  stream  which  enters  the  southeast 
side  of  the  southwest  arm  of  the  former.  Captain  Glazier's 
companions  named  this  body  of  water  Lake  Glazier,  and 
announced  it  as  the  Primal  Reservoir  of  the  river.  Unwilling 
to  abandon  the  theories  of  the  earlier  explorers,  certain  parties 
strongly  antagonized  the  Glazier  claim,  and  exerted  so  gnat 
an  influence  with  the  Historical  Society  of  Minnesota  that 
that  body  rejected  his  discovery  altogether  ^  nd  refused  to 
admit  the  source  to  be  beyond  Itisca.  A  long  newspaper  war 
followed,  sufficiently  acrimonious  on  both  sides.  Geographers 
are  now  divided  on  the  question,  so  that  scholars  and  students 
who  use  the  geographies  of  one  publisher  will  be  taught  that 
the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  is  Lake  Itasca,  while  those  who 
use  the  publications  of  another  will  learn  that  it  is  Lake 
Glazier.  Just  who  is  benefited  by  this  condition  of  things  it 
is  somewhat  difficult  to  asceriain. 

"  The  actual  facts  in  the  case  are  the<-e:  That  all  the  investi- 
gations made  since  the  Glazier  discovery  was  firs'  di-puted, 
tend  to  show  very  conclusively  that  the  True  Source  of  the 
river  is  in  the  lake  immediate'y  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  known 
to  the  Indians  as  Po-keg-a-ma;  that  Captain  Glazier's  party 
christened  this  sheet  of  water  Lake  Glazier;  that  Glazier  was 
the  first  who  discovered  and  proclaimed  the  Source  to  be  in 
that  lake.  This  being  the  case,  it  seems  but  just  that  th"  honor 
of  the  discovery  should  no  longer  be  withheld  from  him.  At 
all  events,  our  school  geographies  should  teach  the  truth  as  to 
where  the  Source  really  is." 

Those  who  have  glanced  over  the  preceding  edi- 
torial comments  will  probably  have  fonnd  some  evi- 
dence of  the  interest  taken  by  the  general  public  in 
the  question  that  brought  me  again  to  Minnesota. 
They  may  also  have  noted  the  trend  of  opinion;  and 
if  they  are  candid  and  in  search  of  truth,  I  feel  con- 
fident they  will  reach  the  conclusion  that  the  press 
at  least,  throughout  the  country,  is  not  only  not 
opposed  to,  but  favorable  and  strongly  corroborative 
of  my  views. 


(314) 


CHAPTER  VII. 

MINNEAPOLIS  TO   PARK   RAPIDS. 

*y  EAVING  Minneapolis  at  an  early  hour  on 
the  morning  of  August  seventeenth, 
we  reached  Saint  Cloud  at  ten  o'clock. 
Here  we  had  dinner,  and  spent  a  few 
hours  in  strolls  through  the  leading 
streets  of  the  city.  Resuming  our 
journey,  we  went  on  to  Brainerd  in 
the  evening,  where  we  remained  for  two  days.  .It 
was  at  this  point  that  the  equipment  of  my  First 
Expedition  was  completed. 

Brainerd,  sometimes  familiarly  styled  the  "  City  of 
Pines,"  is  situated  in  a  bend  of  the  Mississippi,  on 
the  border  of  an  extensive  pine  forest,  at  the  point 
where  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  makes  its  cross- 
ing. Although  but  twenty-eight  miles  south  of 
Aitkin,  by  railway,  it  is  ninety-five  miles  below  that 
city,  by  the  river.  The  town  was  originally  built 
among  the  pines,  and  when  I  saw  it  in  1881,  it  was 
the  most  picturesque  village  I  had  ever  looked  upon. 
The  streets  had  been  cut  directly  through  the  virgin 
forest,  and  only  such  trees  removed  as  were  absolutely 
necessary  to  make  room  for  business  houses  and  resi- 
dences. Brainerd  is  the  third  town  from  the  Source 
of  the  Mississippi,  and,  after  Saint  Paul  and  Minne- 
apolis, one  of  the  most  advanced  above  the  Falls  of 
Saint  Anthony.  Viewed  from  the  river,  which  winds 
around  its  front,  a  picture  of  rare  beauty  is  pre- 

(315) 


(316) 


MINNEAPOLIS   TO   PARK    RAPIDS.  317 

sented  to  the  tourist  who  delights  in  Upper  Missis- 
sippi scenery.  Without  a  history,  this  town  leaped 
into  existence  with  a  considerable  population,  mostly 
of  New  England  origin,  and  at  one  time  seemed  des- 
tined to  become  a  city  of  respectable  proportions.  Its 
rapid  growth  for  several  years  was  probably  due  to  its 
large  and  increasing  lumber  interest,  and  the  location 
at  that  point  of  the  shops  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railway,  which  gave  it  prominence  and  prospective 
importance  as  a  center  of  industry.  The  removal  of 
the  shops,  a  short  time  since,  to  Staples  seriously  inter- 
rupted the  development  of  Brainerd  and  greatly  bene- 
fited the  former  place;  hence,  although  the  Brain- 
erd of  to-day  possesses  a  greater  population  than  the 
Brainerd  of  1881,  it  gives  less  promise  for  the  future. 

One  of  the  attractive  features  of  this  little  city, 
and  a  favorite  resort  during  the  summer  months, 
is  Pine  Park,  situated  within  the  city  limits.  This 
park  is  thickly  studded  with  tall  gray  and  Norway 
pines  from  sixty  to  a  hundred  feet  in  height,  which 
give  the  traveler  an  excellent  idea  of  the  appearance 
of  this  region  before  the  axe  of  the  settler  was  heard 
in  the  unbroken  wilderness. 

Among  the  objects  of  interest  visited  here  were  the 
Sanitarium  and  the  rooms  of  the  Young  Men's 
Christian  Association;  the  former  of  which  was  built 
by,  and  is  entirely  in  the  hands  of,  the  Northern 
Pacific  Eailway — a  wise  and,  indeed,  generous  pro- 
vision for  the  sick  and  disabled  employes  of  the  road. 
The  ample  quarters  of  the  Y.  M.  0.  A.  are  quite  up 
to  the  modern  idea,  having  a  library,  gymnasium,  and 
well-appointed  reading-rooms. 

A  pleasant  incident  of  our  sojourn  at  this  frontier 
town  was  a  call  from  Miss  Lotta  Grandelmeyer,  a 


(318) 


MINNEAPOLIS  TO   PARK  RAPIDS.  319 

great-granddaughter  of  William  Morrison,  the  pio- 
neer fur  trader,  who  saw  Lake  Itasca  in  1804,  the 
year  previous  to  the  visit  of  Lieutenant  Pike  to  Cass 
Lake.  Had  the  latter  met  Morrison  then,  it  is 
hardly  probable  that  the  explorer  of  1805  would 
have  laid  down  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  in  Turtle 
Lake.  Since  that  time,  the  descendants  of  William 
Morrison  and  his  brother  Allan  have  been  residents 
of  Minnesota,  and  the  high  esteem  in  which  the  fam- 
ily is  held  was  shown  many  years  ago,  in  bestowing 
the  name  of  Morrison  upon  one  of  the  largest  and 
most-flourishing  counties  in  the  State. 

Miss  Grandelmeyer  is  a  young  lady  of  intelligence 
and  refinement,  proud  of  her  ancestors,  and  much 
interested  in  everything  relating  to  the  geography 
and  history  of  Minnesota.  The  information  which 
she  furnished  us,  concerning  the  Morrisons  and  other 
early  settlers  of  the  northern  portions  of  the  State, 
was  of  especial  value  to  myself  and  companions. 

Later  in  the  day,  Dr.  F.  A.  Seal,  Government  phy- 
sician at  the  Leech  Lake  Indian  Agency,  paid  his 
respects,  and  talked  with  us  in  regard  to  Indian  affairs 
in  that  region.  He  has  been  four  years  among  the 
Chippewas,  and  his  stories  of  their  peculiar  manners 
and  customs  were  eagerly  listened  to  by  those  of  our 
party  who  had  never  before  been  so  near  the  domin- 
ions of  their  red  brothers. 

From  Dr.  Seal  I  learned  the  particulars  of  the 
death  and  burial  of  Chenowagesic,  the  guide  of  my 
First  Expedition,  to  whom  I  made  frequent  reference 
in  "Down  the  Great  Kiver,"  and  other  publications 
relating  to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi.  I  was 
already  aware  of  his  death,  which  occurred  at  Leech 
Lake  in  March,  1891,  but  knew  nothing  of  its  cause, 
or  of  his  funeral  and  place  of  burial. 


320  DISCOVERY   OF  THE  TRUE   SOURCE. 

Dr.  Seal  explained  that  a  severe  cold  led  to  pneu- 
monia, and  that  he  lived  but  a  few  days  after  his 
condition  was  considered  critical.  The  ceremony 
attending  his  funeral  was  strictly  in  accordance  with 
his  wishes,  and  in  conformity  with  usual  Chippewa 
practices  on  such  occasions.  Since  retiring  from  my 
service  in  1881,  he  had  been  elevated  to  the  chieftain- 
ship of  a  tribe,  and  later  had  been  appointed  captain 
of  Indian  police  by  the  Government  agent  at  Leech 
Lake.  Having  expressed  a  desire,  during  his  illness, 
to  stand  once  more  at  the  head  of  his  company,  his 
family  and  friends  insisted  that  his  request  should  be 
respected.  Their  cabin  was  on  the  shore  of  the  lake, 
about  five  miles  from  the  Agency,  and  when  the  Gov- 
ernment wagon  arrived  for  his  remains,  the  entire 
Indian  police  force  of  the  Leech  Lake  Keservation 
was  drawn  up  in  line,  and  the  body  of  Chenowagesic, 
clothed  in  the  uniform  of  his  office,  was  placed, 
standing,  on  the  right  of  the  line,  where  it  was  held 
in  position  by  a  relative  for  some  moments;  then, 
placing  the  corpse  in  a  coffin,  it  was  preceded  by 
the  police,  and  followed  by  his  sorrowing  family 
and  friends  to  the  Chippewa  village  near  the  Agency, 
where  his  remains  were  given  a  Christian  burial. 

While  at  Brainerd,  1  had  the  pleasure  of  again 
meeting  Judge  Holland,  Dr.  Kosser,  Captain  Seelye, 
George  S.  Canfield,  and  several  others  with  whom  I 
became  acquainted  during  my  descent  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. These  gentlemen  seemed  greatly  interested 
in  the  objects  of  our  expedition,  and  furnished  us 
much  valuable  information  concerning  the  region 
through  which  we  intended  to  pass  on  our  way  to 
Park  Kapids.  Captain  Seelye  and  Mr.  Canfield,  par- 
ticularly, were  untiring  in  their  efforts  to  place  at  my 


21 


(331) 


322  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

disposal  their  large  experience  in  Northern  Minne- 
sota. The  former  is  widely  known  as  a  veteran 
explorer  for  pine,  and  had,  since  my  explorations  of 
1881,  visited  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  in 
pursuit  of  his  calling. 

We  moved  from  Brainerd  to  Wadena  on  the  after- 
noon of  August  nineteenth,  where  we  found  quarters 
for  the  night  at  the  Merchants'  Hotel  and  Wadena 
House.  On  the  following  morning,  the  entire  party 
was  up  at  daylight,  and,  after  an  early  breakfast,  spent 
an  hour  in  conversation  with  citizens,  and  in  rambles 
through  the  place.  Mr.  T  rost  photographed  a  railway 
station,  park,  and  two  or  three  street  scenes. 

The  birth  of  Wadena  dates  from  the  advent  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Kailroad,  since  which  its  growth  has 
been  consistent  with  the  development  of  the  surround- 
ing country.  In  1880,  the  population  was  but  three 
hundred  and  seven;  in  1890,  it  was  between  three 
and  four  thousand.  This  growing  and  prosperous 
little  town  is  the  capital  of  Wadena  County;  is  forty- 
seven  miles  northwest  of  Brainerd,  and  was,  until  the 
completion  of  the  branch  road  to  Park  Kapids,  the 
nearest  railway  station  to  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 
Situated  in  the  midst  of  one  of  the  most  productive 
wheat-growing  sections  of  Minnesota,  and  with  every 
facility  for  the  receipt  and  shipment  of  this  staple, 
the  prediction  of  a  prosperous  future  need  hardly  be 
questioned. 

Leaving  Wadena  at  nine  o'clock,  we  proceeded  on 
our  journey  to  Park  Eapids  by  way  of  the  Wadena 
and  Park  Kapids  branch  of  the  Great  Northern  Kail- 
way.  A  halt  of  nearly  an  hour  was  made  at  a  half- 
way house  known  as  Menahga,  where  we  had  a  very 
satisfactory  dinner;  the  conductor  favoring  the  land- 


(323) 


324  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

lord,  and  ourselves  at  the  same  time,  by  holding 
his  train  until  we  could  dine  in  detachments,  the 
table  and  service  not  being  equal  to  so  large  a  party. 
After  dinner  the  conductor  still  further  delayed  his 
train  in  order  to  give  Mr.  Trost  an  opportunity  to 
photograph  the  Menahga  House  and  its  guests. 

Our  brief  stop  at  this  pioneer  establishment  was,  it 
may  perhaps  be  considered,  an  event  in  its  history, 
and  the  worthy  host  seemed  anxious  to  make  the  most 
of  it.  We  may  also  explain  that  the  new  railway 
from  Wadena  to  Park  Kapids  was,  at  this  date,  in  an 
unfinished  condition;  there  were  no  stations  north  of 
Wadena,  except  at  its  terminus  at  Park  Rapids.  The 
obliging  conductor,  therefore,  consented  to  accommo- 
date the  passengers,  of  whom  our  party  formed  the 
majority,  so  far  as  he  could  do  so  consistently. 

Continuing  our  journey  from  Menahga,  we  reached 
Park  Rapids  at  three  o'clock.  Here  we  were  most 
cordially  received  by  a  delegation  of  citizens,  and 
escorted  to  the  Central  House  by  Henry  R.  Cobb, 
postmaster,  and  editor  of  the  Hubbard  County 
Enterprise-,  and  E.  M.  Horton,  clerk  of  the  County 
Court,  who  had  anticipated  our  arrival. 

Park  Rapids  is  a  typical  frontier  village,  the  county 
seat  of  Hubbard  County,  and,  as  previously  noted, 
the  nearest  inhabited  point  to  the  Source  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. It  is  situated  on  Fish-hook  River,  near  a 
beautiful  lake  of  the  same  name.  The  region  sur- 
rounding the  place  is  familiarly  known  as  the  Shell 
Prairies,  and  the  soil  is  said  to  be  favorable  to  the 
growth  of  wheat,  corn,  oats,  and  other  cereals.  The 
first  house  is  stated  to  have  been  erected  in  1882,  the 
year  after  my  first  journey  across  Northern  Minne- 
sota. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

THKOUGH   THE   WILDERNESS. 

iHKEE  days  were  spent  at  Park 
Rapids  in  organization  and  equip- 
ment. Here  we  were  opportunely 
reinforced  by  several  gentlemen 
who  proved  a  very  valuable  addi- 
tion to  the  party,  and  having 
previously  introduced  to  my  readers 
those  members  of  the  expedition 
who  joined  us  in  Minneapolis,  I  now  give  the  names 
of  the  Park  Rapids  contingent,  beginning  with  Henry 
R.  Cobb,  to  whom  allusion  has  already  been  made. 
Mr.  Cobb  is  a  native  of  Maine,  and  although  still 
a  young  man,  was  a  pioneer  in  Northern  Minnesota 
and  one  of  the  first  settlers  at  Park  Rapids.  Through 
his  paper,  the  Hubbard  County  Enterprise,  he  has 
done  much  to  invite  attention  to,  and  encourage  the 
development  of,  this  section  of  the  State. 

Hon.  C.  D.  Cutting  of  Howard  County,  Iowa, 
was  the  guest  of  Mr.  Cobb  at  the  time  of  our  arrival, 
and  curtailed  his  visit  in  order  to  make  one  of  our 
number.  He  began  life  in  the  "Pine  Tree  State," 
but,  like  thousands  of  others,  left  New  England  in 
boyhood  to  seek  his  fortune  in  the  Great  West.  An 
ample  competency,  resulting  from  earnest  toil  beyond 
the  Mississippi,  and  his  election  to  the  Legislature  of 
his  adopted  State,  are  sufficient  proofs  of  industry 
and  good  citizenship.     Senator  Cutting  was  accompa- 

(326) 


(327) 


328  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

nied  by  his  son  Frank,  a  young  man  of  eighteen 
years. 

E.  M.  Horton  of  Park  Rapids,  at  present  clerk  of 
the  Hubbard  County  Court,  is  a  surveyor  and  civil 
engineer  by  profession,  and  was  recently  in  the 
employ  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway.  Mr.  Hor- 
ton was  introduced  by  Postmaster  Cobb,  and  highly 
indorsed  as  a  surveyor  by  many  of  his  fellow-towns- 
men. 

Oliver  S.  Keay,  formerly  of  Maine,  but  now  a  resi- 
dent of  Minnesota,  was  accepted  on  the  recommenda- 
tion of  Mr.  Horton  and  other  citizens  of  Park  Rapids 
for  the  position  of  guide  and  assistant  surveyor.  He 
has  had  large  experience  as  an  explorer  of  pine 
lands  in  the  northern  sections  of  the  State,  and  was 
the  only  member  of  our  party  besides  myself  who 
had  seen  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 

Daniel  Adams  and  his  son  Grant  were  employed  as 
teamsters,  and,  although  pursuing  an  humble  calling, 
are  highly  respected  as  good  citizens  and  neighbors  in 
Park  Rapids.  Louis  Delezene  was  engaged  as  cook 
and  general  assistant. 

In  the  matter  of  equipment  for  our  explorations, 
we  were  provided  with  canoes,  tents,  blankets,  rations, 
guns,  ammunition,  fishing  tackle,  surveyor's  compass 
and  chain,  barometer,  thermometers,  pocket  com- 
passes, and  a  portable  photographic  apparatus. 

Having  ascertained  that  it  was  now  possible  to 
journey  on  wheels  from  Park  Rapids  to  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  three  wagons 
were  employed  to  carry  our  canoes,  camp  equipage, 
and  rations  to  the  southeastern  arm  of  Lake  Itasca; 
these  wagons  were  drawn  by  horses,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  one  mule,  bearing  the  euphonious  title  or 


THROUGH  THE  WILDERNESS.  329 

nickname  of  u  Jerry. n  This  long-eared  companion 
of  one  of  the  horses  possessed  all  the  peculiarities  of 
his  kind,  and,  as  will  be  seen  farther  on,  frequently 
converted  serious  into  amusing  and  ludicrous  situa- 
tions. 

Although  we  had  learned  from  pioneers  that  wagon 
conveyance  at  best  would  be  difficult,  and  at  times 
even  hazardous,  it  was  a  relief  to  know  that  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  trip,  at  least,  teams  could  be  used 
for  the  transportation  of  our  luggage. 

Our  organization  and  equipment  completed,  we 
started  from  Park  Eapids  at  eight  o'clock  on  Satur- 
day morning,  August  twenty-second,  and  soon 
plunged  into  the  interminable  primitive  forest 
which  lies  between  this  frontier  town  and  the  Head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi.  The  road,  which  is  but 
little  more  than  a  trail,  winds  among  the  tall  pines, 
over  huge  boulders,  across  marshes,  and  up  and  down 
sand-hills,  in  descending  which  it  was  necessary  to 
chain  the  wagon-wheels,  and  in  their  ascent  the  com-  , 
bined  strength  of  horses  and  men  was  required. 

For  the  first  six  miles  our  route  led  us  across  a 
shell  prairie  to  the  west  of  Park  Eapids,  and  then 
over  rather  indifferent  sand  roads,  through  a  partly 
cultivated  country,  and  past  an  occasional  log  cabin. 
As  we  moved  forward,  however,  all  traces  of  cultiva- 
tion gradually  disappeared,  and  by  noon,  after  having 
advanced  but  ten  miles,  nothing  remained  to  suggest 
the  existence  of  humanity  aside  from  our  own  party 
and  the  rugged  and  slightly  travel-worn  trail  we  were 
following.  We  were  confronted  on  all  sides  by  the 
apparently  endless  virgin  forest,  in  which  gray,  Nor- 
way, and  jack -pines  largely  predominated.  From 
the  hill-tops  many  of  the  pines  rear  their  evergreen 


1^^  »     ■  ■ — 


*&- 


■  e3 

■  z 


(330) 


THROUGH  THE  WILDERNESS.  331 

crests  to  the  enormous  height  of  over  a  hundred  feet, 
while  in  the  marshes  and  lowlands  the  tamarack  and 
underbrush  are  seen  on  every  hand. 

We  succeeded  in  reaching  at  noon  a  stream  known 
to  frontiersmen  of  that  locality  as  "  Dinner  Creek/" 
Here,  where  we  found  excellent  water,  we  had  our 
first  meal  in  the  open  air. 

The  fording  of  "  Dinner  Creek  "  was  the  first  of 
many  novel  and  exciting  experiences  in  our  march 
through  the  wilderness,  and  gave  us  a  foretaste  of  what 
we  might  reasonably  anticipate  at  intervals  during 
the  remainder  of  the  journey,  for  it  may  be  explained 
at  once  that  the  region  about  the  Head  of  the  Missis- 
sippi is  a  series  of  diluvial  sand-ridges  and  numberless 
lakes,  ponds,  streams,  marshes,  and  in  brief  every- 
thing conceivable  that  could  impede  and  obstruct 
locomotion. 

When  we  had  reached  a  slight  elevation  overlook- 
ing the  creek,  it  was  evident  that  the  most  feasible 
way  of  crossing  the  stream  would  be  to  ford  it  in  the 
wagons,  as  the  depth  of  water  was  sufficient  to  make 
fording  on  foot  impracticable  without  the  annoyance 
of  a  severe  and  unnecessary  wetting;  we  therefore 
mounted  the  wagons  promptly  and  rode  forward. 

On  approaching  the  stream,  the  mule  divided  with 
his  mate  the  honor  of  leading  our  column,  and  no 
sooner  had  the  ford  begun  than  "  Jerry,"  tempted  by 
the  clear  sparkling  water,  and  delighting  in  its  cooling 
effects  upon  his  overheated  legs,  mule-like,  wanted  to 
drink;  and  halt  he  would,  doubtless  oblivious  of  the 
difficulty  he  was  sure  to  experience  in  again  starting. 
After  drinking  all  he  could  hold  conveniently,  he 
raised  his  head  and  put  up  his  ears  in  a  knowing  man- 
ner as  if  in  contemplation  of  the  steep  ascent  beyond. 


332  DISCOVERY   OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

When  "Jerry"  received  from  his  driver  the  word 
"go,"  he  attempted  to  climb  over  bis  companion, 
but  failing  in  this  he  next  tried  to  push  himself  bodily 
through  his  collar,  and,  although  unable  to  accomplish 
what  he  undertook,  succeeded  in  landing  horse, 
wagon,  and  freight  on  the  opposite  shore,  where  with 
one  wheel  in  the  road,  and  another  against  an  embank- 
ment, he,  with  characteristic  mischief,  made  a  sudden 
and  unexpected  disposition  of  the  passengers. 

As  "Dinner  Creek"  was  the  first  stream  encount- 
ered, and  the  first  barrier  to  uninterrupted  travel,  a 
brief  sketch  of  it  may  prove  of  some  interest  to  those 
tourists  who  incline  to  follow  our  footsteps  to  the  Mecca 
of  the  Upper  Mississippi.  Rising  to  the  southward 
of  the  basin  which  incloses  Itasca  and  Glazier  lakes, 
it  flows  in  a  southeasterly  direction  through  Becker 
and  Hubbard  counties,  and  ultimately  falls  into  the 
Crow  Wing  River,  of  which  it  is  an  important  tribu- 
tary. Its  banks,  for  some  distance  above  and  below 
the  point  where  we  effected  a  crossing,  are  high  and 
well-defined,  with  an  average  width  of  about  sixty, 
and  a  depth  of  from  three  to  four  feet,  at  the  time  we 
saw  it  on  the  twenty-second  of  August. 

I  may  add  that  it  was  the  sentiment  of  many  of 
our  party,  that  this  water-course  was  of  sufficient 
importance  to  receive  a  more  dignified  title  than 
"Dinner  Creek ";  and  I  therefore  suggest  that,  if 
entirely  in  accord  with  the  views  of  the  residents  of 
that  section  of  Minnesota,  it  be  named  Morrison  River 
in  honor  of  Allan  and  William  Morrison,  who  were 
among  the  first  white  men  to  penetrate  the  wilds,  and 
leave  their  foot-prints  on  the  hills  and  in  the  valleys 
of  the  "North  Star  State." 

Dinner  over,  and  "  Jerry"  having  been  coaxed  intc 


THROUGH   THE   WIL'JEKNESS.  333 

the  (i  notion,"  wo  again  moved  forward.  Obstacles  to 
progress  were  found  to  be  more  numerous  and  diffi- 
cult as  Ave  advanced;  the  trail  being  hardly  discern- 
ible at  many  points,  while  the  hills  wero  steeper  and 
more  frequent.  The  wagons  were  pulled  and  pushed 
up  one  hill  after  another;  then,  when  they  were  at  the 
summit,  some  of  our  number  moved  in  front  of  the 
teams  with  long  sticks,  as  they  descended,  beating 
the  animals  in  their  faces,  in  order  to  assist  the  driv- 
ers in  forcing  them  to  hold  back;  other  members  of 
the  party  took  position  behind  and  on  the  sides  of  the 
wagons,  exerting  all  the  muscle  they  could  command, 
in  their  efforts  to  keep  canoes  and  luggage  from  being 
precipitated  into  the  valley  below. 

Thoroughly  exhausted  by  the  fatigues  of  the  day, 
we  halted  at  six  o'clock  on  the  crest  of  a  stony-capped 
ridge,  about  twenty  miles  northwest  of  Park  Rapids. 
Here  we  pitched  tents,  and  built  a  camp-fire,  naming 
the  encampment  ' '  Munsell,"  after  a  senior  member 
of  the  expedition.  Camp  Munsell  overlooked  an 
apparently  fine  body  of  water,  but  the  discovery  was 
soon  made  that  its  appearance  was  misleading,  and 
what  had  tempted  us  to  go  into  camp  early  in  the 
evening  proved  to  be  only  a  dead  lake,  the  water  of 
which  was  unfit  for  use  by  either  man  or  beast. 

The  water  near  the  margin  of  this  lake  was  stag- 
nant, and  filled  with  dead  and  decaying  vegetable 
matter.  The  horses  were  led  down  to  the  shore,  but 
seemed  disgusted,  and  would  not  drink.  "  Jerry" 
alone  appeared  satisfied,  and  in  consideration  of  his 
approval  of  what  seemed  obnoxious  to  all  others,  we 
at  once  named  it  Mule  Lake. 

Being  unable  to  use,  in  a  raw  state,  the  water  refused 
by  the  horses,  we  boiled  it,  and  made  a  kettle  of 


334  DISCOVERY    OF   THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

rather  insipid  coffee,  which  in  a  measure  appeased 
thirst,  and  afforded  us  slight  refreshment. 

A  careful  exploration  of  the  region  adjacent  to 
Camp  Munsell  made  it  clear  that  living  water  could 
not  be  found  in  that  immediate  vicinity;  and  had  we 
not  already  made  considerable  preparation  for  the 
night,  we  should  have  moved  forward  in  the  hope  of 
finding  a  more  desirable  location. 

All  were  astir  at  sunrise  on  the  following  morning, 
and  had  breakfast  soon  after.  It  being  Sunday,  I 
had  originally  intended  to  remain  in  camp  the  entire 
day,  and  resume  march  on  the  morning  of  the  twenty- 
fourth;  but  owing  to  the  want  of  good  water,  all 
voted  to  strike  tents,  and  move  on  without  delay. 

The  event  of  this  day's  tramp  was  the  shooting  of 
a  large  black  bear,  early  in  the  forenoon,  by  Whitney 
and  Delezene,  who,  at  the  time  of  catching  their  first 
glimpse  of  bruin,  were  about  a  hundred  yards  in 
advance  of  the  column.  Being  armed  with  rifles, 
both  fired  at  the  same  instant,  but  their  shots  were 
not  immediately  fatal,  and  the  bear  made  good  his 
escape,  leaving  a  trail  of  blood  behind  to  indicate  his 
line  of  retreat.  Several  members  of  the  party  joined 
Whitney  and  Delezene  in  pursuit  of  the  wounded 
animal;  but  wishing  to  establish  our  evening  encamp- 
ment on  Schoolcraft  Island,  there  was  no  time  to  lose, 
and  I  therefore  recalled  the  hunters  and  pushed  on 
toward  Lake  Itasca. 

On  returning  from  the  hunt,  we  were  not  a  little 
amused  by  an  incident  doubtless  quite  in  keeping 
with  the  reportorial  profession.  Arriving  upon  the 
ground  from  which  the  shots  had  been  fired  but  a  few 
moments  before,  the  correspondent  of  the  Boston 
Herald  seated  himself  on  a  log,  deliberately  pulled 


(335) 


336  DISCOVERY   OF  THE    TRUE   SOURCE. 

his  note-book  and  pencil  from  a  side-pocket,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  " interview"  his  companions;  inquired  the 
time  bruin  was  first  seen,  his  size  and  appearance, 
the  precise  moment  that  fire  was  opened  on  him,  and 
the  direction  he  had  taken  after  being  wounded; 
then,  putting  his  note-book  back  in  his  pocket,  he 
arose  with  becoming  dignity,  and  wiping  the  perspi- 
ration from  his  brow,  threw  his  rifle  over  his  shoul- 
der, and,  apparently  a  ready  for  action,"  said,  "Gen- 
tlemen, my  article  for  the  Herald  is  ready;  now  bring 
on  your  bear!"  It  occurred  to  us  that  if  bears  could 
select  their  hunters,  there  would  be  a  very  large 
premium  on  reporters  and  correspondents  of  leading 
dailies,  when  fully  provided  with  note-books,  sketch- 
books, and  all  other  paraphernalia  known  to  knights 
of  the  quill;  for,  while  the  representative  of  the  news- 
paper was  perfecting  his  notes,  bruin  could  readily 
betake  himself  to  safer  and  more  peaceful  quarters 
beyond  the  reach  of  the  enemy. 

Our  course  was  still  northwesterly,  and  the  interest 
in  the  region  traversed  increased  as  we  approached 
the  Height  of  Land,  usually  described  as  the  water- 
shed, and  which  separates  the  great  river  systems  of 
North  America. 

The  prevailing  growth  observed  at  this  stage  of  our 
journey  was  thick  bramble,  pine,  spruce,  white  cedar, 
and  tamarack.  The  hills  were  found  to  be  higher 
and  more  rugged  as  we  advanced,  while  we  experi- 
enced much  difficulty  in  penetrating  the  dense  under- 
growth of  the  valleys.  The  trail  often  plunged  into 
marshy  and  matted  thickets,  which  required  all  the 
strength  we  could  muster  to  press  through;  then  rose 
to  an  elevation  covered  with  cedar  or  jack-pines,  and 
anon  dropped  into  a  swamp,  strewn  with  fallen  trees 


THROUGH   THE   WILDERNESS.  337 

covered  with  moss,  from  which  it  again  led  to  the 
summit  of  a  sand-hill,  steeper  and  higher  than  the  one 
that  preceded  it;  and  so  on,  ad  infinitum,  until  the  goal 
of  the  expedition  was  reached. 

Notwithstanding  some  of  the  disagreeable  features 
enumerated,  that  portion  of  Minnesota  lying  at,  and 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of,  the  Headwaters  is,  and 
will  always  be,  a  region  of  much  interest  to  the  stu- 
dent and  tourist  who  has  the  hardihood  to  climb  the 
hills  and  wade  through  the  marshes  that  conceal  the 
mysterious  Fount  of  the  Great  River. 

It  may  be  further  observed  that  this  particular  sec- 
tion of  Minnesota  is  likely  to  remain  in  a  wild  state 
for  many  years  to  come,  as  the  soil  is  hardly  Avorth 
tilling  and  the  timber  at  present  inaccessible.  The 
surface  is  cut  up  by  glacial  ridges  which  leave  many 
depressions,  of  from  a  few  hundred  feet  to  many  miles 
in  extent,  mostly  without  outlet.  The  basins  thus 
formed  by  these  elevations  and  depressions  hold  the 
myriad  lakes  for  which  this  region  is  celebrated. 

When  within  a  short  distance  of  Lake  Itasca,  the 
guide  drew  my  attention  to  the  claim  cabin  of  an 
enterprising  pioneer,  who  had,  a  year  or  two  previous, 
built  a  log  house,  and  attempted  to  hold  the  pine 
land,  which  is  allowed  in  case  certain  requirements 
of  the  State  are  complied  with.  Disappointed  in  his 
estimate  of  soon  having  neighbors,  and  unwilling  to 
remain  longer  in  his  isolated  position,  the  settler 
abandoned  his  claim  and  returned  to  the  haunts  of 
civilization,  heartily  glad  to  be  rid  of  his  enterprise 
in  the  wilderness. 

Continuing  our  journey,  the  trail  led  us  along  the 
shore  of  a  small  lake  having  a  length  of  about  a  half 
mile  and  a  width  of  between  two  and  three  hundred 

22 


338  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

yards.  It  is  nearly  a  mile  to  the  south  of  the  south- 
east arm  of  Lake  Itasca,  into  which  it  falls  through  a 
iwift  brook  with  a  sandy  and  pebbly  bed.  This 
pretty  little  lake  was  seen  during  my  former  visit  and 
christened  Gamble,  after  W.  H.  Gamble,  a  leading 
geographer  of  Philadelphia.  The  stream  connecting 
it  with  Itasca  was  named  Bear  Creek,  from  the  cir 
cumstance  of  our  adventure  referred  to  in  a  previous 
paragraph. 

A  little  farther  on,  we  came  to  the  last  of  the  series 
of  ridges  which  we  had  been  successively  climbing, 
since  we  struck  tents  in  the  morning.  From  the 
summit  of  this  elevation  we  had  a  very  good  view  of 
Lake  Itasca,  which  was  seen  from  the  crest  of  the 
pine-covered  bluff  overlooking  the  southeastern  arm 
of  the  lake.  Here  we  bivouacked,  and  drank  our  cof- 
fee on  the  very  spot  from  which  I  had  my  first  glimpse 
of  Itasca  in  1881.  I  may  further  observe  that  School- 
craft, also,  first  looked  upon  this  lake  from  the  same 
point  in  1832,  and  Nicollet  in  1836. 

We  had  now  reached  the  terminus  of  our  convey- 
ance on  wheels,  and,  having  lunched,  the  wagons 
were  unloaded,  and  the  canoes  and  baggage  carried 
down  to  the  lake.  It  being  the  intention  to  camp  for 
the  night  on  Schoolcraft  Island,  we  embarked  with- 
out delay,  and  an  hour  later  were  pitching  our  tents 
on  the  northeast  side  of  the  island,  on  the  ground 
selected  by  my  faithful  guide,  Chenowagesic,  for  the 
encampment  of  my  First  Expedition  ten  years  before. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


HEADWATEKS   OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI. 

FTER  an  early  breakfast  at  Camp  Shure 
on  the  morning  of  the  twenty-fourth, 
tents  were  struck,  and  an  hour  later 
we  were  in  our  canoes,  paddling  up  the 
southwestern  arm  of  Lake  Itasca,  it 
being  the  intention  to  establish  a  per- 
manent camp  and  base  of  operations  on 
the  south  side  of  the  elevation  of  land 
which  separates  that  arm  of  Itasca  from 
the  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  now  generally  recognized 
as  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 

As  we  approached  the  southern  end  of  the  lake, 
my  companions  seemed  more  than  usually  interested, 
and,  resting  on  our  paddles,  we  paused  a  few  moments 
to  scan  its  shores.  To  me  the  scene  was  quite  famil- 
iar, but  to  them  it  was  new  and  strange  and  full  of 
material  for  future  investigation;  for  it  was  this  por- 
tion of  Itasca,  together  with  the  fine  lake  beyond, 
and  their  respective  feeders,  which  had  occupied  the 
attention  of  geographers  for  more  than  ten  years. 
Entering  on  our  right  is  a  trickling  rivulet  having 
no  well-defined  course,  and  of  little  consequence. 
Directly  in  front  is  a  small  stream  usually  denomi- 
nated Nicollet  Creek — the  outlet  of  ponds  situated  in 
marshes  to  the  southward.  This  creek  and  the  insig- 
nificant ponds  in  which  it  originates  were  seen  and 
entered  by  Nicollet  in  1836,  Julius  Chambers  in  1872, 

(339)     ' 


(340) 


HEADWATERS  OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  341 

and  again,  by  my  party,  in  1881;  and  have  since  been 
visited,  christened,  and  re-christened  so  many  times, 
by  two  or  three  enterprising  parties  from  Saint  Paul, 
that  it  is  now  extremely  doubtful  if  the  people  of 
Minnesota,  or  elsewhere,  have  any  definite  idea  of 
their  claim  to  serious  consideration. 

It  is  perhaps  sufficient  to  add,  that  a  certain  repre- 
sentative of  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society,  who 
has  wasted  much  effort  in  his  attempt  to  disprove  my 
position,  has  moved  up  the  valley  of  this  stream,  and, 
utterly  ignoring  the  time-honored  practice  of  geog- 
raphers, has  presumed  to  name,  successively,  bogs  and 
ponds  as  important  feeders  of  the  Mississippi,  until 
he  has  reached  the  limit  of  running  water;  then, 
scaling  sand-hills,  has  imagined  subterranean  connec- 
tion with  isolated  dead  lakes  which  he  has  exalted  to 
the  dignity  of  Fountain-head  of  the  Great  River. 
His  ridiculous  pretensions  having  finally  been  disposed 
of  in  this  quarter,  he  springs  a  coup-de-main  upon 
his  unsuspecting  followers,  and  announces  to  his 
"select  class  of  scientists"  at  Saint  Paul,  that  "all 
our  rivers  have  their  sources  in  the  clouds."  It  hav- 
ing been  the  purpose  of  my  party  to  confine  its  obser- 
vations to  terra-firma,  we  surrendered  the  department 
of  the  "clouds"  to  the  individual  above  referred  to, 
and  decided  to  ascend  Nicollet  Creek  with  compass 
and  chain  as  soon  as  practicable. 

Resuming  our  observations,  I  may  explain  that  we 
are  still  in  our  canoes,  looking  southward.  On  our 
right  the  west  shore  of  Itasca  is  fringed  with  pine, 
while  in  our  front  its  southern  end  and  the  eastern 
shore  on  our  left  are  covered  with  tamarack,  except- 
ing an  open  space  at  the  summit  of  a  hill  near  the 
southern  extremity  of   the  lake.     The  Hauteur  de 


342  DISCOVERY   OF   THE   TRUE    SOURCE. 

Terre  range  of  hills,  which  constitutes  the  Height  of 
Land,  may  be  clearly  seen  in  the  distance,  and 
between  these  hills  and  the  knoll  there  is  a  peculiar 
light  which  indicates  to  the  practiced  eye  of  the 
woodsman  that  there  is  a  large  body  of  water  beyond. 
No  portion  of  Itasca  presents  so  many  features  of 
striking  interest  as  this,  and  were  it  not  that  impera- 
tive duties  urged  us  forward  to  other  fields  of  equal 
and  even  greater  interest,  we  would  gladly  have 
lingered  longer  where  there  was  so  much  to  excite 
our  admiration. 

Passing  from  the  scene  which  had  held  our  atten- 
tion for  nearly  half  an  hour,  I  carefully  scanned  the 
eastern  shore  for  the  mouth  of  the  Infant  Mississippi, 
the  view  being  obstructed  now,  as  in  1881,  by  a  rank 
growth  of  weeds,  rushes,  and  wild  rice.  Fixing  my 
eyes  upon  a  small  pine,  which  marks  the  precise 
point  of  entrance,  we  turned  the  canoes  and  pushed 
them  through  the  dense  vegetation  out  into  the  clear 
waters  of  the  inlet.  I  was  now  in  my  old  tracks, 
ascending  the  stream  which  leads  to  the  lake  that  has 
been  for  more  than  a  decade  the  central  figure  in  geo- 
graphical discussion  in  this  country. 

We  continued  to  move  up  the  stream  in  our  canoes 
until  stopped  by  fallen  trees;  then,  disembarking,  we 
hastened  forward  on  foot  to  the  crest  of  the  hill 
which  overlooks  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  and  its 
outlet.  Here  we  halted  a  few  moments  to  survey  the 
scene  before  us  and  to  reflect  upon  the  history  of 
exploration  in  this  quarter.  Much  has  been  said  and 
written,  since  my  earlier  visit,  tending  to  throw  dis- 
credit upon  my  announcement  of  that  date,  and  yet 
I  honestly  believe,  and  feel  confident  that  I  shall  be 
able  to  maintain,  that  this  beautiful  body  of  water, 


(343) 


344  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE   SOURCE. 

the  Po-keg-a-ma  of  the  Cliippewas — re-named  Lake 
Glazier  by  the  companions  of  my  First  Expedition — 
is  the  Primal  Eeservoir;  that  it  was  not  so  considered 
prior  to  my  exploration  of  1881,  and  that  we  were 
the  first  to  correctly  locate  its  feeders  and  establish 
its  true  relation  to  Lake  Itasca  and  the  Great  River. 
It  has  been  said,  by  some  writers,  that  Schoolcraft 
saw  this  lake  in  1832  and  Nicollet  in  183G.  As  to 
the  former,  it  may  be  observed  that  there  is  not  a  line 
in  the  narrative  of  his  explorations  to  indicate  that 
he  was  south  of  the  island  which  bears  his  name.  On 
the  contrary,  he  plainly  states  that  he  reached  the 
upper  end  of  the  southeastern  arm  of  Lake  Itasca 
about  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  July  tenth, 
1832,  floated  down  to  the  island,  had  dinner,  made  a 
few  observations,  and  having  an  appointment  to  meet 
Indians  at  the  mouth  of  Crow  Wing  Rivera  few  days 
later,  passed  out  of  the  lake  and  immediately  began 
the  descent  of  the  Mississippi,  reaching  a  point  twenty- 
five  miles  below  the  outlet  of  Itasca  in  season  for  his 
evening  encampment.  An  examination  of  his  map 
will  convince  any  unprejudiced  mind  that  he  could 
not  have  coasted  this  lake  for  its  feeders;  nor  could 
he  even  have  ascended  its  southwestern  arm.  Were 
his  map  faithful  to  nature,  it  is  certainly  not  the  result 
of  personal  observation,  as  I  venture  to  assert  that 
few  men  could  do  more  within  the  time  allotted  by 
Mr.  Schoolcraft  for  his  investigations  than  he  himself 
accomplished.  To  resume,  therefore,  and  taking  his 
own  account  as  the  most  reliable  authority  which  can 
be  cited,  he  was  less  than  three  hours  within  the  lim- 
its of  the  Itascan  Basin.  Much  of  the  knowledge 
which  he  possessed  of  Lake  Itasca  and  its  environs 
must  have  been  obtained  from  his  Indian  guide 
Ozawindib. 


HEADWATERS   OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  345 

I  here  introduce  a  few  quotations  from  Schoolcraft, 
in  support  of  my  position  that  he  omitted  to  explore 
Lake  Itasca;  and  give  in  his  own  language  his  rea- 
sons for  not  doing  so.  It  will  readily  be  seen  by  the 
following  extract  from  his  "Narrative  of  the  Expedi- 
tion," page  235,  "Sources  of  the  Mississippi" — Lip- 
pincott,  1855 — that  his  engagement  to  meet  Indians 
at  a  date  previously  agreed  upon,  precluded  the  possi- 
bility of  his  making  anything  more  than  a  very  lim- 
ited investigation.     He  says: 

"Besides,  I  had  agreed  to  m(  el  the  Indians  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Crow  Wing  River  on  the  twenty-fourth  of  July,  and  that 
engagement  must  be  fulfilled." 

Again,    on   the  ensuing  day,  at  the  time  of   his 

arrival  at  Lake  Itasca,  he  remarks,  on  page  242: 

"After  passing  down  its  longest  arm  we  landed  at  an  island 
which  appeared  to  be  the  only  one  in  he  lake.  1  immediately 
had  my  tent  pitched,  and,  while  the  cook  ex<  rted  his  skill  to 
prepare  a  meal,  scrutinized  its  shores  for  crustac<a,  while 
Dr.  Houghton  sought  to  identify  its  plants.  While  here,  the 
latter  recognized  the  mycrostylis  ophioglossoide,  phy  sails  lan- 
ceolata,  silene  antirrliina,  and  viola  pedata." 

Further,  as  a  proof  that  it  was  utterly  impossible 
for  Schoolcraft  to  have  explored  Itasca  between  the 
time  of  his  arrival  on  its  shores  and  his  going  into 
camp  on  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day,  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi, twenty-five  miles  below  the  outlet  of  the 
lake,  I  submit  the  following,  from  the  same  and  a 
succeeding  chapter,  which  shows  very  conclusively 
that  his  time  on  the  island  was  fully  taken  up  with 
astronomical  observations,  the  coining  of  a  name  for 
the  newly  discovered  lake,  geological  investigations, 
raising  the  flag,  and  other  ceremonies  in  connection 
therewith,  and  the  composition  of  a  commemorative 
poem.  Referring  to  his  observations  and  the  naming 
of  the  lake,  he  tells  us  that: 


346  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

"The  latitude  of  this  lake  is  47°  13'  35".  The  highest 
grounds  passed  over  by  us  in  our  transit  from  the  Assowa 
Lake  lie  it  an  elevation  of  1,695  feet.  The  view  given  of  the 
scene  in  th  first  volume  of  my '  Ethnological  Researches,'  page 
14  ■,  is  taken  from  a  point  north  of  the  island,  looking  into 
the  vista  of  the  south  arm  of  the  lake;  I  inquired  of  Ozawin- 
dib  the  Indian  name  of  this  lake;  he  replied,  0.:ius7ikds, 
which  is  the  Chippewa  name  of  the  elk.  Having  previously 
got  an  inkling  of  some  of  their  mythological  and  necromantic 
notions  of  the  origin  and  mutations  of  the  country  which  per- 
mitted the  use  of  a  female  name  for  it,  I  denominated  it  Itasca." 

Assuming  that  Schoolcraft  was  three  hours  at,  and 
in  the  vicinity  of,  Itasca,  and  allowing  an  hour  for 
the  descent  of  its  southeastern  arm  to  the  island, 
and  another  hour  for  passing  out  of  the  lake  after 
his  investigations  were  completed,  it  will  be  seen  that 
not  over  one  hour,  at  most,  could  have  been  spent  in 
other  employments,  and  that  hour  was  fully  occupied 
in  pitching  and  striking  tents,  in  a  study  of  the  bot- 
any, arborology,  and  mineralogy  of  the  island  and 
the  finding  of  its  latitude,  together  with  the  produc- 
tion of  his  expressive  "  Stanzas  on  Reaching  the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi,"  which  alone  would  have 
taxed  the  wits  and  inspiration  of  many  explorers  a 
week  instead  of  the  fraction  of  an  hour. 

Proceeding  with  his  examinations  at  the  island, 
Mr.  Schoolcraft  observes,  on  page  246 : 

"On  scrutinizing  the  shores  of  the  island  on  which  I  had 
encamped,  innumerable  helices,  and  other  small  univalves, 
were  found;  among  these  I  observed  a  new  species,  which  Mr. 
Cooper  has  described  as  planorbis  campanulatus.  There  were 
bones  of  certain  species  of  fish,  as  well  as  the  bucklers  of  one 
or  two  kinds  of  tortoise,  scattered  around  the  sites  of  old  Indian 
camp-fires,  denoting  so  many  points  of  its  natural  history. 
Amidst  the  forest  trees  before  named,  the  betula  papyracece 
and  spruce  were  observed.  Directing  one  of  the  latter  to  be 
cut  down  and  prepared  as  a  flagstaff,  I  caused  the  United  States 
flag  to  be  hoisted  on  it.  This  symbol  was  left  flying  at  our 
departure.  Ozawindib,  who  at  once  comprehended  the 
meaning  of  this  ceremony,  with  his  companions  fired  a  salute 
as  it  reached  its  elevation." 


HEADWATERS  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  347 

Concluding  his  scientific  investigations,  School- 
craft devoted  the  remainder  of  his  exceedingly  brief 
visit  to  the  island  in  evolving  the  poem  to  which  pre- 
vious allusion  has  been  made.  It  is,  perhaps,  not 
too  much  to  add  that  few  writers  have  been  favored 
with  so  happy  a  theme,  or  have  written  under  more 
romantic  circumstances,  and  whatever  its  poetic 
merit,  I  feel  very  confident  that  it  will  at  least  con- 
vince the  reader  that  if  its  author  did  not  see  the 
True  Head  of  the  Great  River,  he  was  certainly  not 
idle  during  his  sojourn  of  an  hour  on  Schoolcraft 
Island. 

I  present,  without  apology,  Mr.  Schoolcraft's  beau- 
tiful poem  as  a  part  of  the  record  of  his  visit  to  Lake 
Itasca . 

STANZAS    0]ST    REACHING   THE   SOURCE   OF    THE    MIS- 
SISSIPPI  RIVER   IN    1832. 
I. 

Ha!  truant  of  Western  waters!    Thou  who  hast 

So  long  concealed  thy  very  sources,  flitting  shy — 
Now  here,  now  there — through  spreading  mazes  vast, 

Thou  art,  at  length,  discovered  to  the  eye 
In  crystal  springs  that  ruu,  like  silver  thread, 

From  out  their  sandy  heights,  and  glittering  lie 
Within  a  beauteous  basin,  fair  outspread, 

Hesperian  woodlands  of  the  western  sky, 
As  if,  in  Indian  myths,  a  truth  there  could  be  read, 
And  these  were  tears,  indeed,  by  fair  Itasca  shed. 

II. 

To  bear  the  sword,  on  prancing  steed  arrayed; 

To  lift  the  voice  admiring  senates  own; 
To  tune  the  lyre  enraptured  muses  played ; 

Or  pierce  the  starry  heavens,  the  blue  unknown, 
These  were  the  aims  of  many  sons  of  fame, 

Who  shook  the  world  with  glory's  golden  song. 
I  sought  a  moral  meed  of  less  acclaim, 

In  treading  lands  remote,  and  mazes  long; 
And  while  around  aerial  voices  ring, 
I  quaff  the  limpid  cup  at  Mississippi's  spring. 

— H.  R.  S. 


348  DISCOVERY   OF   THE  TRUE   SOURCE. 

His  examinations  completed  and  his  poem  finished, 

we  follow  Schoolcraft  to  his  evening  encampment  on 

the  Mississippi,  twenty-five  miles  below  the  outlet  of 

Itasca.     Continuing  his  narrative,  he  writes,  on  page 

246: 

"Having  made  the  necessary  examinations,  I  directed  my 
tent  to  be  struck,  and  the  canoes  put  into  the  water,  and  imme- 
diately embarked.  The  outlet  lies  north  of  the  island.  Before 
reaching  it  we  had  lost  sight  of  the  flagstaff,  owing  to  the 
curvature  of  the  shore.  Unexpectedly,  the  outlet  proved  quite  a 
brisk  brook,  with  a  mean  width  of  ten  feet,  and  one  foot  in 
depth.  The  water  is  as  clear  as  crystal,  and  we  at  once  found 
ourselves  gliding  along,  over  a  sandy  and  pebbly  bottom, 
strewed  with  the  scattered  valves  or  shells,  at  a  brisk  rate. 
After  descending  some  twenty-five  miles,  we  encamped  on  a 
high  sandy  bluff  on  the  left  hand." 

When  it  is  considered  that  the  foregoing  quotations 
are  taken  from  the  record  of  a  single  day,  and  that 
almost  the  entire  forenoon  was  occupied  in  making  a 
portage  between  the  east  and  west  forks  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  that,  in  addition  to  passing  through  a 
portion  of  Lake  Itasca,  he  descended  the  river  twenty- 
five  miles,  it  is  as  clear  as  the  noonday  sun  that  he 
could  not  have  had  more  than  an  hour  at  his  disposal 
on  the  island,  and  during  his  passage  through  the  lake; 
and  the  assumption  of  a  few  critics  that  he  must  have 
seen  the  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca  is  not  within  the 
bounds  of  reason.  It  is,  therefore,  to  bo  conclusively 
inferred  that  Schoolcraft  saw  Lake  Itasca,  accepted 
it  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi — probably  on  the 
authority  of  his  Indian  guide — passed  out  of  the  lake 
and  descended  the  river.  Hence,  it  was  impossible 
that  he  could  have  coasted  Itasca,  or  given  any  atten- 
tion to  its  affluents,  and,  in  support  of  this  view, 
I  find  that  he  makes  no  claim  to  having  done  so  in 
the  narrative  of  his  expedition. 

Did  Nicollet  see  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi?     If 


LAKE    ITASCA 
SCHOOLCRAFT,    1832. 


LAKE    ITASCA 

AND  VICINITY. 

Trom  Nicollet's  Map,  now  deposited  in  the 

General  Land  Office,  "Washington,  D.  C 

Scale  ;  20  miles  to  an  inch. 
I 


RAND,  MCNAUY&  CO. 


MAPS   OF    SCHOOLCRAFT   AND    NICOLLET 


350  DISCOVERY   OF  THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

so,  he  does  not  describe  the  lake  which  more  recent 
investigation  has  located  as  the  Origin  of  the  river. 
There  is  nothing  on  his  map,  to  the  southeast  of  Itasca, 
which  resembles  the  delineations  of  later  explorers, 
except  the  creek  which  enters  the  extreme  southern 
end  of  the  southwest  arm  of  the  lake,  and  the  small 
ponds  which  are  expansions  of  the  stream.  He  doubt- 
less coasted  Itasca  in  his  canoe,  and  as  the  mouth  of 
this  tributary  is  open  and  clear  of  obstructions,  he 
readily  entered  and  ascended  it.  No  recent  explorer 
will  think  it  strange  that  he  did  not  see  the  more  im- 
portant stream  proceeding  from  the  large  lake  to  the 
southeastward,  when  we  reflect  that  its  inlet  into  Itasca 
is  obstructed  by  reeds  and  rushes,  and  completely 
hidden  from  view.  Had  Schoolcraft  and  Nicollet 
ascended  this  stream,  and  looked  upon  this  highly 
picturesque  lake,  they  would  doubtless  have  given  it 
its  true  character  in  the  record  of  their  explorations. 
Was  Julius  Chambers  at  the  real  Source  of  the 
Great  River  in  1872?  No!  unless  we  are  to  disbelieve 
his  published  statements.  After  an  examination  of 
his  map,  and  reading  with  much  care  everything 
relating  to  the  subject,  I  fail  to  find  confirmation  of 
the  theory  that  has  been  advanced  by  one  or  two 
opponents,  that  he  must  have  seen,  in  that  year,  the 
lake  which  I  describe  as  the  Primal  Reservoir.  The 
subjoined  extract  from  the  narrative  of  Mr.  Chambers, 
in  the  New  York  Herald  of  July  sixth,  1872,  proves 
conclusively  that  he  did  not  visit  the  Head  of  the 
river,  or  any  of  its  feeders;  on  the  contrary,  it  is  very 
evident  that  he  paddled  his  canoe,  li  Dolly  Varden," 
up  Nicollet  Creek  to  its  first  pond,  which  he  clearly 
describes  in  the  following  language: 
•    "  Here,  then,  is  the  source  of  the  longest  river  in  the  world; 


HEADWATERS   OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  351 

in  a  small  lake,  scarcely  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  diameter,  in  the 
midst  of  a  floating  bog,  the  fountains  which  give  birth  to  the 
Mississippi." 

Before  concluding  with  Mr.  Chambers,  let  me  ask : 
Is  there  one,  among  the  many  who  are  to-day  familiar 
with  the  nomenclature  and  characteristics  of  this 
region,  who  will  so  far  stultify  himself,  and  mislead 
others,  as  to  assert  that  the  foregoing  quotation  refers 
to  the  True  Head  of  the  Mississippi — an  expanse  of 
water  nearly  two  miles  in  diameter,  having  a  circum- 
ference of  between  five  and  six  miles,  and  an  area  of 
255  acres,  presenting  high  and  wooded  shores,  and 
with  no  swamps  or  "  floating  bogs"  in  its  vicinity? 

What  was  accomplished  by  the  Government  survey 
of  1875  in  the  direction  of  throwing  light  upon  the 
vexed  question?  Very  little,  beyond  showing  the  area 
and  relative  proportions  of  the  two  lakes  under  dis- 
cussion. It  was  not  within  its  province  to  trace 
streams  to  their  sources,  to  determine  heights  and 
levels,  or  meander  lakes  of  less  than  forty  acres  in 
extent.  Hopewell  Clarke,  a  contemporary,  and  a 
surveyor  by  profession,  who  did  me  the  honor  to 
investigate  and  report  upon  my  explorations  of  1881, 
comments  thus  upon  the  survey  in  question: 

"A  singular  mistake,  however,  on  the  Government  plat  is 
easily  accounted  for.  The  course  of  the  stream  from  lake  H, 
until  it  crosses  the  south  line  of  Section  22,  is  substantially 
correct  as  laid  down  on  the  Government  map;  but  when  they 
ran  the  line  between  Sections  21  and  22,  this  stream  was  not 
crossed  again,  and  they  naturally  supposed  it  ran  due  north 
through  the  western  edge  of  Section  22,  and  that  the  stream 
flowing  out  of  Section  21  into  22  was  a  branch  running  into 
the  main  stream;  whereas,  this  is  the  main  stream,  which,  pass- 
ing westward  under  their  feet  into  Section  21  by  an  outlet 
which  they  they  did  not  see,  because  it  was  underground, 
takes  its  course  through  the  eastern  part  of  Section  21,  and 
crosses  into  Section  22  again  at  the  point  where  the  Govern- 
ment surveyors  had  indicated  a  feeder  to  the  mainstream. 
The  two  small  lakes,  C  and  D,  on  Section  22,  and  the  two,  A  and 


352  DISCOVERY   OF   THE  TRUE   SOURCE. 

B,  on  Section  31,  would  not  be  crossed  by  a  section  line;  hence, 
they  were  not  indicated  by  the  surveyors.  At  a  poiot  where 
the  section  line,  between  Sections  21  aud  28,  crosses  the  branch 
of  the  spring  flowing  out  of  Section  28,  the  course  of  the 
stream  is  t hi  ough  a  boggy  swamp,  and  it  would  hardly  be 
noticed  as  the  stream,  without  going  a  considerable  distance 
north  or  south  of  the  section  line;  hence,  it  is  not  shown  on  the 
Government  maps,  but  in  place  of  it,  is  shown  a  marsh." 

It  will  be  seen  by  the  foregoing  that  Mr.  Clarke 

had  excellent  reasons  for  excusing  the  inaccuracies  of 

the  survey,  when,  as  he  informs  us  in  this  connection: 

"  Their  business  was  to  establish  sectional  corners;  blaze  lines 
between  the  sections;  note  all  lakes  intercepted  by  the  section 
lines;  meander  all  lakes  of  more  than  forty  acres  in  extent; 
note  streams  crossed,  and  indicate  their  apparent  direction. 
Errors  will  creep  into  their  work,  but  when  we  take  into  consid- 
eration the  difficulties  they  had  to  contend  with,  it  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at." 

I  quite  agree  with  Mr.  Clarke  that  the  mistakes 
committed  by  the  survey  are  not  to  be  wondered  at, 
and  can  readily  understand  their  excuse  for  omitting 
to  show  on  their  map  a  most  important  feeder  of  the 
True  Source.  Had  they  traced  its  affluents  to  the 
springs  at  the  foot  of  the  sand-hills,  they  would  have 
discovered,  in  1875,  what  I  learned,  in  1881;  that, 
instead  of  being  a  mere  feeder  of  Itasca,  the  large  lake 
beyond  it  is  the  Fountain-head  of  the  Mississippi. 

With  the  exclusively  topographical  survey,  under 
Edwin  S.  Hall  and  his  assistants,  began  and  ended 
all  investigation  of  an  authentic  character  at  the 
Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  up  to  1881.  Just  what 
this  survey  really  developed  has  been  presented  in  pre- 
ceding paragraphs.  After  an  interval  of  ten  years,  I 
returned,  with  the  largest  body  of  explorers  and  sur- 
veyors that  had  ever  stood  on  this  ground,  to  examine 
my  former  work,  and  to  submit  my  claim  to  impartial 
consideration. 


23 


(353) 


CHAPTER  X. 

JOUKNAL    OF    THE    EXPEDITION. 

AVING  reviewed  the  explorations  of 
those  who  preceded  my  earlier  visit, 
and  briefly  alluded  to  recent  investiga- 
tion, I  now  present  in  detail,  from  our 
daily  field  notes,  the  observations  of 
my  Second  Expedition. 

Preliminary  to  the  exploratory  work 
of  the  following  seven  days,  I  may 
explain  that  our  tents  were  pitched, 
and  a  permanent  headquarters  established  on  the  south 
side  of  the  ridge,  or  elevated  land,  which  separates 
Itasca  from  the  lake  beyond,  near  the  outlet  of  the 
latter.  This  rendezvous  we  named  Camp  Trost,  in 
compliment  to  our  photographer.  For  convenience, 
the  beautiful  sheet  of  water  in  our  front  will  be 
referred  to  in  future  pages  as  Lake  Glazier. 

Camp  Trost,  August  25,  1891. — Messrs.  Trost  and 
Shure  were  up  at  five  o'clock,  and  off  in  a  canoe  with 
their  trolling-hooks,  on  Lake  Glazier,  in  quest  of  fish. 
Their  efforts  were  rewarded  with  a  fine  mess  of  bass, 
pike,  perch,  and  pickerel,  which  were  caught  in 
season  for  an  early  breakfast. 

At  seven  o'clock,  a  detail  was  made  to  accompany 
Surveyors  Horton  and  Keay  in  an  examination  of 
Nicollet  Creek.  It  was  decided  that  Messrs.  Cobb, 
Crane,  Cutting,  Whitney,  and  myself  should  form 

(354) 


(355) 


356  DISCOVERY   OF    THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

this  committee  of  investigation;  and  that  the  length, 
width,  depth,  and  velocity  of  current  of  this  stream 
should  be  ascertained  by  careful  measurement. 
Launching  our  canoes  on  Itasca,  we  were  soon  at  the 
extremity  of  the  southwest  arm  of  the  lake,  and  a 
moment  later  a£  the  mouth  of  the  creek.  This  we 
found,  by  the  aid  of  the  chain,  to  be  ten  feet  wide  and 
two  and  a  half  feet  deep.  We  then  ascended  this 
feeder  to  a  small  pond,  or,  more  correctly,  a  floating 
bog.  The  area  of  the  pond,  or  bog,  was  found  to  be 
less  than  three  acres;  and  the  only  water  exposed  to 
view  was  nearly  filled  with  lily-pads.  Continuing  up 
the  creek,  we  came  to  a  second  pond,  somewhat  larger 
than  the  first,  and,  a  few  yards  farther  on,  to  the 
origin  of  the  stream,  in  a  spring  at  the  foot  of  a  sand 
hill.  Our  measurement  enabled  us  to  determine  that 
the  distance  of  the  spring  from  Lake  Itasca  is  7,307 
feet,  or  only  a  mile  and  three-eighths. 

Before  returning  to  camp,  I  may  explain  that  this 
is  the  creek  which  Nicollet  ascended  in  183(5,  and 
roughly  estimated  to  be  from  two  to  three  miles  in 
length;  and  which  Hopewell  Clarke,  in  1886,  reduced 
to  two  miles.  A  still  more  recent  visitor,  clothed 
with  "  a  little  brief  authority,"  under  the  State 
Government,  has  such  an  unaccountable  penchant  for 
exaggeration,  that,  in  his  report  to  the  Governor  of 
Minnesota,  he  calls  this  creek  a  river,  and  elevates  its 
insignificant  ponds  to  the  dignity  of  lakes.  It  may 
be  observed  that  our  careful  measurement  of  the 
stream  by  chain  shows  its  length  to  be  only  one 
mile  and  three-eighths. 

If  we  pause  to  consider  the  difficulties  encountered  by 
Nicollet,  while  wading  through  a  tamarack  marsh,  we 
can  easily  believe  that  this  is  the  stream  he  describes 


From  Photograph  by 


lost. 

EAGLE'S   NEST. 

Western   Shore  of  Lake   Glazier. 

f«8n 


358  DISCOVERY   OF    THE  TRUE   SOURCE. 

as  two  or  three  miles  in  length;  but  there  is  no 
excuse,  at  the  present  day,  for  any  exaggeration  on 
the  part  of  my  successors,  who  allege  that  they  "car- 
ried instruments,"  and  whose  unworthy  motive  for 
misrepresentation  is  clearly  seen  to  be  a  predetermi- 
nation to  misplace  me,  and  by  so  doing  mislead 
geographers  and  the  public. 

Concluding  our  investigations  at  the  head  of  Nicol- 
let Creek,  we  returned  to  the  encampment,  and  later 
in  the  day  I  coasted  Lake  Glazier.  Messrs.  Cobb  and 
Cutting  accompanied  me,  and  seemed  greatly  sur- 
prised and  pleased  with  the  size  and  appearance  of 
the  lake. 

Camp  Trost,  August  26,  1891. — All  hands  were 
astir  at  six  o'clock.  Most  of  the  party  complained 
of  being  cold  during  the  night,  although  each  had  a 
covering  of  from  two  to  three  heavy  woolen  blankets. 

The  forenoon  was  devoted  to  the  work  of  coasting 
Lake  Itasca  for  its  feeders.  The  committee  appointed 
for  this  purpose  reported  on  their  return  that  they 
had  found  the  outlets  of  six  small  streams — two  of 
them  with  well-defined  mouths,  and  four  filtering 
into  the  lake  through  bogs.  The  stream  leading  to 
Lake  Glazier,  properly  designated  as  the  "Infant  Mis- 
sissippi," and  the  one  leading  up  the  Nicollet  Valley, 
to  both  of  which  allusion  has  already  been  made,  are 
the  only  affluents  of  Lake  Itasca  worthy  of  any  con- 
sideration; the  other  four  being  insignificant  rivu- 
lets, rising  at  very  short  distances  from  the  lake,  and 
having  no  definite  course. 

In  the  afternoon,  I  again  coasted  Lake  Glazier, 
accompanied  by  my  daughter,  Trost,  and  Shure. 
Starting  on  the  right  of  the  outlet,  we  passed  en- 
tirely around  the   lake,  a  distance  of  between  five 


(359) 


360  DISCOVERY  OF   THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

and  six  miles,  halting  at  the  mouths  of  Eagle,  Ex- 
celsior, and  Deer  creeks,  its  principal  affluents. 
Alice  made  a  sketch  of  the  Eagle's  Nest,  which  was 
plainly  seen  in  the  branches  of  a  tall  pine  near  the 
mouth  of  Eagle  Creek.  This  same  nest  had  been 
observed  during  my  previous  visit,  ten  years  before, 
and  I  was  then  informed  by  Chenowagesic  that  he 
had  seen  it  there  for  the  past  thirty  years.  It  was 
the  circumstance  of  seeing  this  nest,  and  several 
eagles  in  its  vicinity,  that  led  me  to  name  the  stream 
which  enters  this  side  of  the  lake,  Eagle  Creek. 

On  reaching  the  mouth  of  Excelsior  Creek,  at  the 
southern  end  of  the  lake,  we  disembarked,  and 
walked  up  the  western  bank  of  this  tributary  to  the 
crest  of  a  hill.  On  returning  to  our  canoe,  Mr.  Trost 
photographed  the  Eagle's  Nest  from  the  mouth  of 
the  creek,  and  also  produced  a  picture  of  the  jutting 
headland,  named  Harriet  Promontory,  with  its  mantle 
of  foliage.  On  this  spot  my  party  of  1881  had  landed, 
and  talked  over  the  results  of  our  expedition  of  that 
year.  To  revert  to  Excelsior  Creek,  I  may  observe 
that  it  was  so  named  for  the  reason  that  it  is  the 
longest,  and,  in  its  origin,  the  highest  stream  that  pays 
tribute  to  the  Primal  Reservoir  of  the  Great  River. 

Leaving  Harriet  Promontory,  we  continued  our 
course  along  the  southern  shore  to  the  mouth  of 
another  tributary,  where  we  again  landed,  and  walked 
along  the  white  sand  beach,  which  is  a  peculiar  and 
striking  feature  of  this  locality.  Our  attention  was 
arrested  by  the  great  number  of  deer  and  moose  tracks 
indenting  the  sandy  shore.  A  similar  incident  during 
my  previous  visit  led  me  to  give  to  the  stream  falling 
into  the  lake  at  this  point  the  name  of  Deer  Creek. 

On  our  way  back  to  camp,  the  quick  ear  of  Mr. 


(361) 


362  DISCOVERY   OF   THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

Shure  caught  the  sound  of  falling  water  on  the  east- 
ern shore.  Upon  examination,  a  stream  was  found 
issuing  from  a  mammoth  fountain  on  the  side  of  a 
steep  hill,  about  forty  feet  above.  A  current  of 
great  velocity  rushed  down  the  hillside,  and,  meeting 
broken  ground  in  its  descent,  formed  a  cascade  mid- 
way between  its  source  and  the  lake.  The  water  was 
largely  impregnated  with  iron.  This  spring  was 
christened  Shure,  and  the  cascade  was  named 
Florence,  after  his  wife. 

During  our  circuit  of  the  lake,  my  daughter  had 
her  trolling-hook  over  the  stern  of  the  cauoe,  and 
captured  a  pike,  a  perch,  a  rock  bass,  and  twelve 
pickerel,  one  of  the  latter  weighing  nearly  fifteen 
pounds. 

It  may  here  be  observed  that  the  Primal  Reservoir 
of  the  Mississippi  is  nearly  an  oval  in  shape,  its  great- 
est diameter  being  a  fraction  less  than  two  miles.  Its 
area  is  255  acres,  and  the  average  depth,  forty-five 
feet.  The  water  is  exceedingly  clear,  revealing,  in 
the  shallower  parts,  a  pebbly  bed.  Its  high  and 
thickly  wooded  shores  are  extremely  picturesque,  the 
regularity  and  uniformity  of  the  trees  and  their  lux- 
uriant foliage  giving  the  scene  the  resemblance  to  an 
extensive  park  improved  by  art,  rather  than  a  wild 
product  of  nature.  The  pine,  spruce,  tamarack,  and 
several  varieties  of  hardwood,  including  oak,  beech, 
birch,  and  maple,  were  observed  from  our  canoe, 
gracefully  bending  their  crests  to  the  passing  breeze. 

Camp  Trost,  August  27,  1891. — Called  the  party 
together  after  breakfast,  and  formed  committees  of 
investigation  for  the  day.  Messrs.  Crane,  Trost, 
Keay,  Shure,  Munsell,  Harrison,  Knowlton,  and 
myself,  it  was  arranged,   should  proceed  forthwith 


(368) 


364  DISCOVERY   OF  THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

to  the  lake,  to  which  a  recent  pretentious  explorer 
had  applied  the  name,  l(  Hernando  de  Soto/'  claim- 
ing it  to  be  the  "source"  of  the  Mississippi,  while  he 
admits,  at  the  same  time,  I  believe,  that  it  has  no  sur- 
face connection  with  Lake  Itasca  or  that  river.  With 
this  admission,  we  hardly  recognized  the  utility  of 
making  any  investigation  in  this  direction,  but,  being 
determined  to  examine  everything  that  has  occupied 
the  attention  of  geographers  and  the  public,  with  the 
utmost  care,  we  imposed  upon  ourselves  a  duty  which, 
in  the  light  of  former  and  recent  investigation,  was 
felt  to  be  somewhat  superfluous  and  unnecessary.  I 
can  not  admit  that,  in  a  search  for  the  source  of  a 
river,  there  can  be  any  good  reason  for  passing  the 
limit  of  running  water.  We,  however,  set  apart  this 
day  for  the  examination  of  "  Lake  Hernando  de 
Soto/'  On  our  way  up,  Trost  photographed  the  bog, 
pond,  and  spring  in  Nicollet  Valley.  We  reached 
"  Hernando  "  at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and 
found,  as  I  had  anticipated,  that  its  character  and 
dimensions  had  been  greatly  overdrawn.  That  it  has 
no  visible  connection  with  Lake  Itasca  or  the  Mis- 
sissippi was  the  verdict  of  our  entire  party;  in  fact,  it 
is  an  insignificant  dead  lake,  like  others  in  its  vicinity. 
It  has  no  inlet  or  outlet  that  we  could  discover,  and  if 
it  has  an  underground  communication  with  any  other 
body  of  water,  it  is  more  likely  to  discharge  itself  into 
Lake  Glazier  than  Lake  Itasca.  All  returned  to 
camp  disgusted  with  the  loss  of  a  day,  uselessly  spent 
in  tramping  through  bogs  and  over  sand  hills  in  pur- 
suit of  an  imaginary  source  of  the  Great  Eiver. 

However  it  may  appear  to  some,  to  me,  at  least,  it 
seems  an  insult  to  the  memory  of  the  illustrious  He 
Soto  to  apply  his  name  to  anything  so  unimportant 


(365) 


366  DISCOVERY    OF   THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

as  an  isolated  dead  lake,  having  no  surface  connec- 
tion with  the  Great  River,  with  which  he  will  be 
eternally  associated.  I,  therefore,  respectfully  sug- 
gest to  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society  that  the 
name  of  the  renowned  Spaniard  be  withdrawn,  and 
that  of  the  j)seudo  discoverer  of  this  lake  be  con- 
ferred upon  it.  Let  Hernando  de  Soto  be  insepara- 
bly connected  with  lakes  and  streams  that  pay  living 
tribute  to  the  majestic  river  which  will  be  forever  a 
monument  to  his  fame,  rather  than  consign  it  to  the 
oblivion  of  a  dead  lake. 

On  our  way  out  to  "Hernando,"  a  pleasing  incident 
occurred.  We  had  not  proceeded  far  from  camp  when 
our  ears  were  suddenly  startled  by  a  prolonged  shout 
or  "call- whoop,"  which  echoed  through  the  silent 
woods  from  some  one  at  a  distance.  We,  of  course, 
answered  in  the  language  of  the  forest.  Soon  a 
crashing  of  the  underbrush  revealed  to  us  an  Indian, 
who  approached  me  with  an  expression  of  pleasure 
on  his  bronze  countenance,  and  I  at  once  recognized 
in  our  sturdy  visitor  my  old  interpreter  of  1881 — 
Moses  Lagard.  Upon  receiving  a  cordial  greeting, 
he  explained  his  presence  by  telling  us  that  he  had 
heard  through  the  missionary  at  Leech  Lake — his 
home,  nearly  one  hundred  miles  away — of  our  expe- 
dition, and  at  once  resolved  to  find  us.  With  a  small 
wallet  of  food  and  some  matches  he  had  started 
forthwith  on  his  long  tramp,  which  occupied  him 
several  days.  When  night  overtook  him,  he  had  lain 
down  in  the  forest  and  slept  as  only  an  Indian  can 
sleep,  with  no  roof  over  him  but  the  sky,  and  no 
other  covering  than  the  clothes  he  wore.  He  said  he 
fully  believed  he  would  find  his  old  employer  wher- 
ever he  might  be  in  that  region.     Need  I  say  that  I 


r™'." 

Hmmmm 

-  ■■■■ 

^ 



■>/• 

• 

/ 

* 

"■:  /  . '■■■'■■     ;.'•'.-■/   . 

I   1 

i :    i 

y 

/ 

tU 

I'./j 

OUTLET    OF    LAKE    GLAZIER. 
(367) 


368  DISCOVERY   OF   THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

was  more  than  glad  to  see  him  again,  and  gratified 
by  his  loyalty  and  devotion?  The  distance  he  had 
traveled  was  little  less  than  a  hundred  miles,  but 
fatigue  was  unknown  to  him.  I  introduced  him  to 
my  companions,  and  engaged  him  to  remain  with  us 
until  our  return  to  Park  Eapids.  He  was  useful  to 
us  in  many  ways,  although  we  had  no  need  of  an 
interpreter;  and,  around  the  camp-fire  at  night,  his 
tales  of  adventure  and  translations  of  English  words 
into  Chippewa  were  very  entertaining  to  his  audi- 
ence. I  will  only  add  that  he  was  faithful  in  all 
things,  and  always  on  the  alert  to  serve  us  to  the  best 
of  his  ability. 

It  may  be  here  observed  that  before  our  start  in 
the  morning,  Surveyor  Horton  and  Mr.  Whitney  were 
detached  with  instructions  to  chain  and  report  upon 
the  length  of  Excelsior  Creek;  also  its  width,  depth, 
and  velocity  at  three  different  points.  They  found 
its  length  to  be  8,778  feet;  its  width  at  the  mouth, 
seven  feet;  its  depth,  two  and  a  half  feet.  About 
midway  between  its  mouth  and  the  spring  in  which 
it  originates,  'the  width  was  reported  at  three  feet 
and  its  depth  six  inches.  The  following  is  the  result 
of  careful  measurement: 

From  Lake  Itasca  to  Lake  Glazier 1, 100  feet. 

Across  Lake  Glazier  to  mouth  of  Excels:or  Creek.  .4,228  feet. 
Length  of  Excelsior  Creek 8,778  feet. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  from  Lake  Itasca  to  the 
head  of  Excelsior  Creek  is  14, 106  feet,  clearly  demon- 
strating that  this  stream  is  not  only  the  most  impor- 
tant feeder  of  Lake  Olazier,  but  that  its  source  is 
nearly  twice  as  far  from  Lake  Itasca  as  is  the  head  of 
Nicollet  Creek,  and  furnishes  the  most  convincing 
evidence  to  the  impartial  investigator  that  the  lake 
located  bv  me  is  the  Primal  Keservoir — the  source 


24 


(369; 


370  DISCOVEEY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

of  Excelsior  Creek  being  at  a  much  greater  distance 
from  Lake  Itasca  than  that  of  any  stream  directly 
tributary  to  it. 

Camp  Trost,  August  28,  1891.— Breakfast  at  7.30, 
after  which  Surveyor  Horton  and  Mr.  Whitney 
crossed  to  the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Glazier  in  a 
canoe,  and  ascended  Deer  Creek  for  the  purpose  of 
taking  its  measurements.  They  reported  its  length  to 
be  G,864  feet;  its  width  at  the  entrance  into  the  lake, 
three  feet,  and  depth  at  this  point,  fifteen  inches. 
This  stream,  which  enters  the  extreme  southern  end 
of  the  lake,  is  about  half  a  mile  east  of  Excelsior 
Creek,  and  is  second  only  in  importance  to  the  last- 
named  tributary. 

While  coasting  the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Glazier 
for  the  mouth  of  Deer  Creek,  Horton  and  Whitney 
discovered  a  small  stream  which,  on  ascending,  they 
found  had  its  source  in  a  lakelet  about  half  a  mile 
inland. 

In  the  afternoon,  Keay,  Munsell,  my  duughter  and 
I  walked  out  to  Lake  Alice.  Alice  expressed  her  sur- 
prise and  delight  on  viewing  the  beautiful  little  lake 
to  which  her  name  had  been  given  in  1881.  While 
we  were  at  Lake  Alice,  Horton  and  Whitney  returned 
to  the  creek  they  had  discovered  in  the  morning. 
They  found  upon  investigation  with  compass  and 
chain,  that  their  little  stream  was  1,188  feet  long, 
and  that  the  lakelet  at  its  head  had  an  area  of  be- 
tween two  and  three  acres.  With  one  exception, 
this  tributary  is  the  smallest  and  shortest  of  the  five 
permanent  affluents  of  Lake  Glazier,  but  when  looked 
upon  from  a  geographical  point  of  view,  as  a  feeder 
of  the  Primal  Eeservoir  of  the  Great  Eiver,  it  may  be 
regarded  as  of  considerable  importance. 


GLEN    ALICE. 

Valley  of  Eagle  Creek. 

(371) 


372  DISCOVERY   OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

Camp  Trost,  August  x?9,  1891. — In  the  morning 
Messrs.  Horton,  Keay,  Shure,  Trost,  Harrison,  Knowl- 
ton,  and  my  daughter  walked  out  again  to  Lake  Alice 
for  the  purpose  of  surveying  and  sketching  the  lake 
and  its  surroundings;  also,  of  measuring  the  length 
of  Eagle  Creek.  The  measurement  of  the  creek  gave 
it  a  length  of  6,978  feet  from  its  entrance  into  the 
lake  to  its  origin  in  springs  some  distance  beyond 
Lake  Alice. 

It  may  here  be  noted  that  Eagle  Creek  ranks  third 
in  importance  as  a  feeder  of  Lake  Glazier.  It  has  a 
well-defined  mouth,  a  sandy  and  pebbly  bed,  and  an 
average  width  of  about  three  feet. 

After  dinner  I  crossed  Lake  Glazier  with  Horton, 
Harrison,  and  Knowlton,  and  walked  up  the  banks  of 
the  creek  discovered  by  Horton  on  the  previous  day. 
We  then  proceeded  to  Harriet  Promontory,  on  which 
our  party  of  1881  had  assembled  after  the  investiga- 
tions which  had  led  to  the  conviction  and  subsequent 
announcement  that  the  lake  to  the  south  of,  and  be- 
yond, Itasca  was  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 

Upon  reaching  the  point  of  the  promontory,  we  sig- 
naled our  friends  on  the  northern  shore  of  the  lake 
to  join  us,  and  on  their  arrival,  every  member  of  the 
expedition  being  present,  we  raised  the  Stars  and 
Stripes  to  the  top  of  a  neighboring  pine,  the  same 
flag,  I  may  state,  that  my  party  had  assembled  under, 
on  the  same  spot,  in  1881. 

Our  investigations  of  the  Source  and  alleged  sources 
of  the  Great  River  were  now  ended,  and  so  far  as  I 
could  gather,  there  appeared  to  be  a  consensus  of  belief 
as  to  the  Primal  Reservoir.  I  had  hitherto,  however, 
received  no  direct  communication  of  the  views  of 
any  member  of  the  party,  as  it  had  been  given  me  to 


$H  DISCOVER  OP  THE  tRUE  SOURCE. 

understand  that  a  joint  consultation  would  be  held 
upon  the  subject,  and  the  result  submitted  in  a 
formal  report. 

I  now  proceeded  to  offer  a  few  remarks  in  terms 
prompted  by  my  own  feelings  and  the  conclusions  I 
had  long  since  reached,  and  spoke  substantially  as 
follows: 

"Friends  and  Companions  op  my  Second  Expedition  to 
the  Headwaters  op  the  Mississippi: 

"  The  ground  on  which  we  are  assembled  to-day  has  a  pe- 
culiar interest  for  me,  for  it  w.is  on  this  spot,  in  1881,  that  I 
stood  surrounded  by  the  little  bund  which  had  followed  me 
through  lake  and  portage  in  my  long  journey  from  the  then 
frontier  town  of  Brainerd,  across  Northern  Minnesota.  It 
was  here  I  pronounced  the  beautiful  lake  upon  which  we  are 
now  looking  the  True  Source  of  the  Great  River.  It  was  also 
here  that  we  embarked  on  our  voyage  from  source  to  sea;  and 
now,  after  a  lapse  of  ten  years,  you,  who  represent  nearly  every 
section  of  our  country,  have  come  together  to  discuss  the  results 
of  your  investigations  as  1o  ihe  truth  of  my  announcement 
that  this  lake  is  the  Primal  Reservoir  of  the  Mississippi. 

"  I  had  long  been  of  the  opinion  that  Lake  Itasca  occupied 
an  erroneous  position  in  our  geography,  but  when  I  came  to 
the  Mississippi  in  1881,  that  lake  was  everywhere  considered 
and  laid  down  as  the  Source  of  the  '  Father  of  Running 
Waters/  while  many  Indians  of  Northern  Minnesota  affirmed 
that  there  were  other  lakes  and  streams  beyond.  Our  geogra- 
phers and  educational  publishers  still  believed  in  the  an- 
nouncement made  by  Schoolcraft  in  1832,  and  confirmed  by 
Nicollet  in  1836.  Several  persons  have  visited  this  region 
since  their  day,  but  not  in  the  capacity  of  explorers.  These 
later  visitors  looked  upon  this  lake  and  went  away,  still  ac 
cepting  the  source  designated  by  the  earlier  explorers.  They 
did  not  see  or  search  for  its  feeders.  They  were  not  aware 
of  the  proportions  of  these  feeders.  They  did  not  measure 
their  length  or  width  or  depth.  They  did  not  ascertain  by 
actual  investigation  that  this  lake  was  the  center  of  a  lai  ge 
basin;  that  some  of  its  affluents  extended  to  the  sand  hills,  and 
that  it  was  what  its  Indian  name.  *  Pokegama,'  implies  'The 
Place  where  the  Waters  Gather,'  the  Primal  Reservoir  or  True 
Fountain-head,  from  which  the  Mississippi  starts  on  its  long 
and  tortuous  journey  to  the  tropical  Gulf,  3,000  miles  away. 
Careful  investigation  showed  all  this  in  1881;  and  now,  gen- 
tlemen, you,  who  form  my  Second  Expedition  of  1891,  have 
been  able  to  verify  or  disprove  my  published  statements. 
You  have  seen  every  lake  and  stream  which  has  occupied  the 


(315 


SW  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TittlE  SOURCE. 

attention  of  geographers  during  the  controversy  which  has 
followed.  Let  me  indulge  the  hope  that  you  will,  at  an  early 
day,  report  the  result  of  your  investigations,  as  I  feel  sure  you 
will  thereby  enable  all  fair-minded  persons  to  determine  defi- 
nitely that  the  origin  of  our  Great  River  is  found  in  the  lake 
which  meets  every  requirement  of  geographers  and  scientists. 
I  feel,  furthermore,  that  you  are  called  upon  to  give  an  im- 
partial account  of  what  you  have  seen,  as  I  haye  reason  to  be- 
lieve the  geographical  world  is  looking  forward  with  much 
interest  to  the  outcome  of  your  investigations." 

At  the  conclusion  of  my  remarks,  Mr.  Giles  was 
called  upon  to  read  his  record  of  the  expedition, 
which  he  did,  commencing  with  the  day  on  which  the 
party  left  Minneapolis,  and  ending  on  that  on  which 
our  explorations  were  concluded.  The  record  was  in 
the  form  of  a  diary,  and,  therefore,  recounted  the 
proceedings  of  each  day. 

Then  followed  the  surveyors'  report  on  Lakes 
Itasca  and  Glazier  and  their  affluents.  This  report, 
of  the  particulars  of  which  I  had  previously  no  cog- 
nizance, appeared  to  me  in  every  respect  confirma- 
tory of  all  I  had  advanced  in  1881,  and  subsequently, 
upon  the  subject  of  the  True  Source.     The  report  is 

here  given  verbatim: 

Lake  Glazier,  Minnesota, 
August  29,  1891. 
Captain  Willard  Glazier. 

Dear  Sir:  In  compliance  with  your  request,  we  hereby 
submit  a  statement  covering  our  investigations  as  to  the  length 
of  affluents  flowing  into  the  southwestern  arm  of  Lake  Itasca, 
and  into  Lake  Glazier.    The  following  are  the  results: 

"Nicollet  Creek,  from  Lake  Itasca  to  source,  7,307  feet. 
Equal  to  1  mile  and  2,027  feet. 

Eagle  Creek,  from  Lake  Itasca  to  source,  viz.: 
Length  of  Infant  Mississippi,  or  stream  connecting 

Lakes  Glazier  and  Itasca. 1, 100  feet. 

Across  Lake  Glazier,  northern  end. 1,980  ' ' 

Prom  Lake  Glazier  to  Lake  Alice 4, 356  " 

Length  of  Lake  Alice 924  " 

Length  of  Inlet  to  Lake  Alice. -  1,518  " 

Total  from  Lake  Itasca  to  source  of  Eagle  Creek  9,878  " 
Equal  to  1  mile  and  4,598  feet. 


JOUH^AL  Otf  TEE  EXPEDITION.  3W 

Excelsior  Creek: 

Infant  Mississippi 1,100  feet. 

Across  Lake  Glazier  from  its  outlet  to  mouth  of 

Excelsior 4,228    " 

From  mouth  of  Excelsior  Creek  to  its  source  in 

Sandhills 8.778    " 

Total  distance  from    Lake    Itasca   to  source  of 

Excelsior  _._ .14,106    " 

Equal  to  2  miles  and  3,546  feet. 

Deer  Creek,  from  Lake  Itasca  to  source,  viz. : 

Infant  Mississippi _ _ 1,100  feet. 

Across  Lake  Glazier  to  mouth  of  Creek 5  940    " 

Length  of  Deer  Creek.  _. 6,864    " 

Total  from  Lake  Itasca  to  source  of  Deer  Creek. .13,904    '* 
Equal  to  2  miles  and  3,344  feet. 

Horton  Creek,  from  Lake  Glazier  to  source  in 

Whitney  Pond 1,188    " 

Length  of  Whitney  Pond 396    " 

Total  length  of  Horton  Creek 1,584    " 

Area  of  Lake  Glazier. 255  acres 

Average  depth  of  Lake  Glazier 45  feet. 

Area  of  Lake  Alice 9£  acres 

Area  of  Whitney  Pond 2    " 

In  all  cases  our  measurements  of  streams  were  made,  as 
nearly  as  practicable,  along  the  shore.  We  measured  all  the 
affluents  flowing  into  the  southwest  arm  of  Lake  Itasca,  and 
also  those  emptying  into  Lake  Glazier,  and  found  that  Excel- 
sior Creek,  a  feeder  of  Lake  Glazier,  was  by  far  the  longest 
tributary  of  either  lake,  its  source  being  6,799  feet  farther 
from  Lake  Itasca  than  the  source  of  Nicollet  Creek,  errone- 
ously supposed  by  some  to  be  the  most  important  feeder  of 
Itasca.  It  is,  therefore,  our  firm  belief  that  the  Primal  Reser- 
voir or  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  is  in  Lake  Glazier — the 
only  well-defined  body  of  water  lying  above  Itasca,  and  hav- 
ing any  connection  therewith,  or  with  the  Great  River. 
Respectfully  submitted, 
(Signed)  E.  M.  Horton,      )  ^ 

Oliver  S.  Keay,  f  *»<™W»- 

Mr.  Whitney,  the  botanist  of  the  expedition,  who 
had  been  diligent  in  the  investigation  of  the  flora  of 
the  surrounding  region,  being  next  in  order,  said  in 


3?8  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

substance,  that  he  was  preparing,  and  would  submit 
later,  a  detailed  report,  but  for  the  present  would 
only  state  in  general  terms,  that  the  vegetation  at 
the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  bore  a  strong  affin- 
ity to  that  found  in  Northern  Michigan  and  Wiscon- 
sin, and  the  region  bordering  upon  the  Great  Lakes. 
He  had  collected  many  specimens  of  the  native 
plants,  and  proposed  to  carefully  analyze  them  and 
submit  his  views. 

Mr.  Crane  then  announced  that  he  was  requested 
by  his  companions  of  the  expedition  to  express  their 
appreciation  for  the  opportunity  afforded  them  of 
visiting  the  Head  of  the  mighty  river.  Having  seen 
and  carefully  surveyed  the  Headwaters,  they  felt 
competent  to  report  intelligently  as  to  its  Source. 
But  one  conclusion  had  been  reached  by  the  entire 
party,  and  that  was  that  Lake  Glazier  was  the  Primal 
Reservoir  and  the  only  body  of  water  that  could 
consistently  be  designated  the  Fountain-head.  Mr. 
Crane  added  that  a  report  embodying  this  view 
would  shortly  be  formulated  and  submitted.  He 
closed  his  remarks  by  proposing  a  vote  of  thanks  for 
the  arrangements  I  had  made  for  their  convenience 
and  comfort  during  their  investigations. 

Dr.  Harrison  seconded  the  motion,  and  in  a  few 
words  expressed  his  entire  concurrence  in  Mr.  Crane's 
remarks  with  reference  to  the  True  Head  of  the  river. 
The  motion  was  carried  unanimously.  Dr.  Harrison 
complimented  my  daughter  on  her  courage  in  accom- 
panying her  father  into  so  wild  a  region,  to  which 
she  briefly  responded. 

The  party  was  then  formed  in  line  on  the  beach, 
and  each  member  having  brought  his  rifle,  shotgun, 
or  revolver,  twenty-five  volleys  were  fired  as  a  salute 


JOlTktfAL   OF  THE  EXPEDITION.  37$ 

to  the  flag,  six  rounds  for  the  party  of  1881,  and 
nineteen  for  that  of  1891. 

We  now  got  into  our  canoes  and  returned  to  camp, 
skirting  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake,  and  reaching 
the  encampment  on  the  northern  shore  between  five 
and  six  o'clock. 

Sunday,  August  30,  1891. — This  day  was  spent 
quietly  in  camp,  the  morning  being  for  the  most  part 
devoted  to  writing  up  journals  and  preparing  letters 
for  home,  to  be  mailed  upon  our  return  to  Park 
Rapids. 

In  the  afternoon  it  was  suggested  by  Mr.  Crane 
that  divine  service  be  conducted,  a  suggestion  imme- 
diately approved  by  the  entire  party.  We  accord- 
ingly assembled  in  front  of  the  tents  and  sat  in  a 
semicircle  on  the  dry  grass,  while  our  pastor  for  the 
occasion  stood  on  rising  ground  facing  us.  Bible  in 
hand,  he  commenced  the  service  by  reading  a  chapter 
from  the  New  Testament.  Then  followed  a  very 
impressive  prayer,  and  this  by  an  excellent  discourse 
on  the  calling  of  the  fishermen,  Simon  and  Andrew, 
to  the  discipleship.  Mr.  Crane  had  a  most  attentive 
audience  during  his  sermon,  following  which,  all 
united  in  singing  "Nearer  My  God  to  Thee,"  Mr. 
Knowlton  leading.  The  service  occupied  about  an 
hour,  and  closed  with  the  doxology  and  benediction. 
Mr.  Crane  may  doubtless  claim  the  credit  of  having 
delivered  the  first  sermon  ever  preached  at  the  Source 
of  the  Mississippi. 


(380) 


CHAPTER  XI. 


RETURN    TO    MINNEAPOLIS. 

FTER  an  early  breakfast  at  Camp  Trost, 
on  the  morning  of  August  thirty-first, 
I  went  down  to  the  shore  of  Lake 
Glazier,  accompanied  by  my  daughter 
and  Lagard.  Getting  into  a  canoe  on 
the  right  of  the  outlet,  we  passed  entirely 
around  the  lake,  halting  at  the  mouths 
of  Eagle,  Excelsior,  Horton,  and  Deer 
creeks,  also  at  Harriet  Promontor}',  where  Ave  landed. 
Here  Lagard  erected  a  tablet  which  had  been  previ- 
ously prepared,  commemorative  Of  my  First  Expedi- 
tion; and  another  on  which  was  engraved  the  names 
of  the  members  of  the  expedition  of  1891. 

Before  leaving  the  promontory  we  discharged  our 
firearms  three  times,  as  a  parting  salute  to  the  flag 
which  was  still  flying  from  the  top  of  the  small  pine 
to  which  it  had  been  nailed  during  our  ceremonies  at 
that  point  on  the  twenty-ninth.  Our  salute  was 
responded  to  by  an  equal  number  of  rounds  on  the 
opposite  shore.  We  then  re-entered  the  canoe  and 
returned  to  the  encampment. 

Our  investigations  concluded,  and  everything  being 
ready,  tents  were  struck,  outfit  put  into  the  canoes, 
and  the  journey  back  to  Minneapolis  begun.  Passing 
down  the  southwestern  arm  of  Itasca  to  Schoolcraft 
Island,  we  bore  to  the  right  and  ascended  its  south- 
eastern arm  to  the  point  where  we  had  embarked  at 

(381) 


382  DISCOVERY   OF  THE   TRUE  SOURCE. 

the  time  of  our  arrival  at  the  lake  on  our  way  out. 
The  teamsters  awaited  us  by  appointment,  and  as  soon 
as  we  had  eaten  our  noonday  meal,  assisted  them  in 
loading  the  wagons. 

So  much  time  had  been  consumed  in  the  farewell 
circuit  of  Lake  Glazier  in  the  morning,  and  later  in 
the  forenoon  in  breaking  camp,  and  our  passage 
through  Itasca,  that  it  was  nearly  three  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  when  our  little  column  was  put  in  motion 
and  the  march  commenced,  which  led  over  the  sand- 
hills and  through  the  marshes  to  Park  Rapids. 

We  were  favored  with  clear,  cool  weather  through- 
out the  afternoon;  and  it  was  the  intention  to  reach  a 
high  and  wooded  slope,  some  thirteen  miles  south  of 
Itasca,  but  owing  to  the  steep  and  rugged  condition 
of  the  road,  or,  more  correctly  speaking,  the  trail 
which  we  were  following,  but  little  progress  was 
made,  and  at  nightfall  we  had  advanced  only  about 
ten  miles. 

The  site  selected  for  our  encampment  was  not  what 
we  could  have  wished;  but  in  a  measure  answered  the 
requirements,  as  it  was  on  a  hill-side  covered  with 
pines,  and  in  close  proximity  to  a  small  lake  which 
afforded  good  water  for  man  and  beast.  Although  our 
experience  on  this  ground  reminded  me  more  of  the 
bivouac  than  the  camp,  we  named  it  Camp  Horton, 
in  honor  of  our  surveyor,  E.  M.  Horton,  of  Park 
Rapids,  who  had  not  only  faithfully  and  efficiently 
performed  the  duties  of  his  position,  but  had,  in  many 
ways,  rendered  himself  agreeable  to  the  entire  party. 

Before  supper  was  over,  our  camp-ground  was 
enveloped  in  darkness,  and  being  too  much  exhausted 
to  pitch  tents,  except  one  for  my  daughter,  we  slept 
under  the  open  sky. 


RETURN   TO   MINNEAPOLIS.  383 

Although  only  at  the  end  of  August,  the  night  air 
of  this  elevated  region  was  decidedly  chilly,  and  before 
curling  up  in  our  blankets,  a  large  camp-fire  was 
built,  around  which  all  hands  gathered  and  spent  an 
hour  in  story-telling,  and  a  discussion  of  the  events 
of  our  sojourn  at  the  Headwaters.  The  temperature 
fell  rapidly  as  we  approached  midnight,  and  we  found 
it  necessary  to  draw  the  tent  canvas  over  our  blank- 
ets, and  to  feed  the  fire  at  intervals  in  order  to  make 
ourselves  sufficiently  comfortable  for  sleep. 

We  were  on  our  feet  at  dawn  the  next  morning, 
and  while  the  cook  was  preparing  breakfast  the 
hunters  shouldered  their  fowling-pieces  and  went  in 
pursuit  of  game.  Nothing  was  bagged,  however, 
worthy  of  notice,  which  doubtless  was  due  to  the 
noise  and  confusion  of  the  camp — a  condition  of 
things  alwavs  unfavorable  to  the  art  of  the  sports- 
man. A  few  partridges  were  seen  in  the  underbrush, 
and  deer  and  moose  tracks  noted  along  the  shore  of 
the  lake. 

A  very  noticeable  feature  of  the  hill  on  which 
Camp  Horton  was  situated  was  the  great  number  of 
red  squirrels  seen  at  every  turn.  Many  were  observed 
skipping  about  on  the  ground;  while  overhead  in  the 
trees  there  seemed  to  be  hundreds  of  these  lively  little 
rodents  engaged  in  a  general  frolic.  So  striking  was 
this  peculiarity  of  our  camp-ground  that,  in  referring 
to  the  locality  afterward,  most  of  our  party  spoke  of 
it  as  "Squirrel  Hill." 

Delezene  called  breakfast  at  six  o'clock,  and  as  soon 
as  we  had  drunk  our  coffee,  the  wagons  were  reloaded 
and  the  journey  continued.  The  day  opened  with  a 
fair  sky  at  Camp  Horton;  but  the  clouds '  lowered 
early  in  the  forenoon,  and,  although  there  was  no 


(384) 


RETURN  TO   MINNEAPOLIS.  385 

rainfall,  the  mosquitoes  were  out  in  full  force,  and 
made  our  tramp  anything  but  agreeable  when  passing 
through  the  marshes  and  lowlands  that  lay  along  our 
route.  The  clouds  lifted  at  ten  o'clock,  and  brought 
us  welcome  relief  from  the  torment  of  our  persistent 
and  sanguinary  little  enemy. 

Between  ten  and  eleven  o'clock  we  came  to  a  beau- 
tiful expanse  of  water  on  the  left  of  the  road,  which 
we  had  also  seen  during  our  journey  out.  Leaving  the 
column,  Crane  and  Lagard  walked  down  to  the  lake 
and  carefully  scrutinized  its  shores  to  discover  if  it 
had  an  inlet  and  outlet.  They  estimated  its  dimen- 
sions at  a  mile  in  length  by  about  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  in  width.  At  its  northern  end  there  is  a 
wooded  island  with  an  area  of,  perhaps,  an  acre.  Its 
distance  from  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  is  about 
sixteen  miles.  Crane  discharged  his  fowling-piece  at 
several  ducks  that  were  observed  a  few  feet  from  the 
shore,  but  only  succeeded  in  killing  one;  this  Lagard 
secured  by  wading  into  the  lake,  which,  at  that 
point,  was  shallow,  with  a  sandy  bed.  At  the  sug- 
gestion of  a  member  of  the  party,  the  lake  was  named 
in  honor  of  Mr.  Crane. 

The  stream  described  in  a  previous  chapter,  and 
referred  to  as  Morrison  Iiiver,  was  reached  in  season 
for  luncheon,  which  was  eaten  on  the  north  bank, 
near  the  spot  where  we  had  taken  our  first  refresh- 
ment in  the  open  air  after  leaving  Park  Eapids.  As 
soon  as  we  had  lunched  and  rested,  all  mounted  the 
wagons  except  Mr.  Trost,  who  went  forward  in  his 
high  rubber  boots  in  order  to  find  a  position  from 
which  to  photograph  the  party  while  fording  the 
stream.  Men,  horses,  wagons,  and  surroundings  pre- 
sented a  picturesque  appearance  while  crossing  the 

25 


(386) 


RETURN   TO    MINNEAPOLIS.  387 

river.  Dr.  Harrison  rode  the  leader  and  carried  over 
his  shoulder  the  pole  which  was  used  to  keep  "  Jerry  v 
in  position.  The  remainder  of  the  party  were  piled 
up  in  the  wagons  like  so  much  furniture  on  moving 
day. 

Our  afternoon  tramp  was  uneventful.  A  half- 
dozen  straggling  settler-cabins  were  seen  as  we  drew 
nearer  Park  Rapids,  the  same  we  had  noted  on  our 
journey  out,  and  at  five  o'clock  we  emerged  from  the 
wilderness  and  were  now  wending  our  way  at  a  more 
rapid  gait  over  the  "Shell  Prairies"  toward  the  little 
frontier  village  we  had  left  on  the  twenty-second  of 
August.  The  feature  of  our  march  from  Camp  Hor- 
ton  to  Park  Rapids,  and  that  which,  perhaps,  excited 
most  comment,  was  the  endurance  displayed  by  my 
daughter,  who  walked  by  my  side  throughout  the 
day,  without  once  complaining  of  fatigue,  a  distance 
of  at  least  twenty  miles,  although  the  road  was  so 
hilly  and  rugged  in  many  places  as  to  threaten  to  pre- 
cipitate horses  and  wagons,  with  their  loads,  to  the 
bottom  of  the  declivities. 

A  hearty  welcome  met  us  at  Park  Rapids,  and  it 
was  at  once  apparent  that  the  inhabitants  were  deeply 
interested  in  the  results  of  our  expedition.  We  had 
barely  re-entered  our  old  quarters  at  the  Central 
House,  when  several  of  the  leading  villagers,  headed 
by  Dr.  Winship,  called  and  plied  us  with  questions 
concerning  our  journey  and  explorations.  It  may 
be  explained  that,  although  the  Head  of  the  Missis- 
sippi is  within  fifty  miles  of  their  doors,  and  the 
people  feel  a  special  interest  in  the  question  of  the 
True  Source,  we  found  on  inquiry  that  not  more 
than  two  or  three  had  ever  ventured  to  traverse  the 
wretched  road  that  leads  to  it. 


(388) 


RETURN  TO   MINNEAPOLIS.  389 

During  the  whole  of  our  journey  out  and  back, 
and  while  making  our  investigations  at  the  Head  of 
the  river,  we  were  highly  favored  by  the  weather. 
On  one  occasion  only,  during  the  night,  a  little  rain 
fell  on  our  tents,  but  not  enough  to  inconvenience  us, 
and  the  clouds  passed  away  as  the  morning  dawned. 
Almost  immediately  on  our  return  to  Park  Rapids, 
however,  a  heavy  storm  crept  up  from  the  northwest 
and  rain  fell  in  torrents. 

To  return  to  the  hour  of  our  arrival  at  the  Central 
House,  the  first  thing  thought  of  by  the  entire  party 
was  rest,  after  the  severe  jolting  we  had  endured  in 
the  wagons  and  the  long  and  trying  inarch  over  hill 
and  dale.  Having  made  our  ablutions  and  donned 
clean  linen,  a  hot  supper  was  placed  before  us, 
although  it  was  now  late  in  the  evening,  and  we 
gladly  partook  of  it  before  retiring.  The  supper,  I 
may  add,  consisted,  in  part,  of  bear  steaks,  two  of 
these  animals  having  been  shot  on  the  outskirts  of 
the  village  the  day  before  our  return.  As  may  be 
supposed,  bear  meat  was  a  novelty  to  most  of  the 
party,  but,  on  trial,  was  generally  pronounced  a  pal- 
atable change  after  the  canned  meats,  wild  fowl,  and 
fish  of  the  previous  two  weeks. 

Our  hotel  was,  unfortunately  for  us,  undergoing 
repair  and  enlargement;  workmen  were  employed 
throughout  the  building,  and  the  accommodation, 
therefore,  was  not  of  a  luxurious  character.  The 
walls  of  the  rooms  were  not  plastered,  but  simply 
lathed,  and  the  floors  without  carpet  or  matting. 
There  was  no  furniture  whatever,  except  a  bed,  and 
no  toilet  articles.  To  crown  all,  there  were  no  doors 
to  the  rooms,  so  that,  in  order  to  secure  a  modicum 
of  privacy,  calico  curtains  had  to  be  suspended  on 


390  DISCOVERY   OF   THE   TRUE    SOURCE. 

nails  across  the  open  doorways.  Moreover,  to  add  to 
our  cheerless  condition,  a  strong  northerly  wind,  with 
torrents  of  rain,  had  considerably  reduced  the  tem- 
perature, and,  although  it  was  early  in  September, 
the  cold  was  piercing,  which  made  some  of  our  party 
long  for  a  warmer  latitude.  The  absence  of  the  usual 
appliances  of  a  hotel,  and  consequent  discomfort, 
could  not  justly  be  charged  against  our  worthy  host, 
Ben.  Inman,  who  could  hardly  have  anticipated  such 
an  influx  of  patrons  while  his  house  was  undergoing 
repair,  and  so  we  all  resolved  to  make  the  best  of  it, 
and  resume  our  journey  homeward  with  the  least  pos- 
sible delay. 

Before  proceeding  further,  I  may  here  add  a  few 
words  concerning  the  senior  member  of  the  expedi- 
tion, Mr.  Giles — who,  notwithstanding  his  advanced 
age,  bore  the  journey,  both  ways,  bravely.  While  at 
the  encampment,  he  kept  a  diary  of  every  event  that 
transpired,  and  was  very  enthusiastic  in  his  admira- 
tion of  the  picturesque  and  beautiful  lake  embosomed 
in  the  dense  forest  to  the  south  of  Itasca.  He  passed 
over  and  around  it  several  times,  and  among  other 
piscatorial  feats,  was  successful  in  landing  with  his 
trolling-hook  a  seventeen-pound  pickerel — the  finest 
catch  made  by  any  of  the  party.  By  common  agree- 
ment he  was  exempted,  on  account  of  his  years,  from 
the  rougher  and  more  fatiguing  duties  of  the  survey, 
in  which  all  the  others  participated. 

Moses  Lagard,  my  old  interpreter  of  1881,  who,  it 
has  already  been  stated,  came  out  from  Leech  Lake 
in  search  of  me,  accompanied  the  party  on  our  way 
back  to  Park  Eapids.  He  had  rendered  himself 
extremely  useful  in  many  ways,  and  was  always  will- 
ing and  prompt  in  the  performance  of  any  service  re- 


(391) 


392  DISCOVERY   OF  THE   TRUE    SOURCE. 

quired  of  him.  I  was  very  sorry  to  be  obliged  to  part 
with  him,  and  he  seemed  much  affected  on  leaving  us. 

Having  rested  as  much  as  possible  under  the 
circumstances,  and  having  conversed  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning  with  most  of  the  leading  inhabit- 
ants, we  took  our  leave  of  them  and  our  friends 
Postmaster  Cobb  and  Dr.  Winship;  and  finally  of 
Horton  and  Keay,  of  both  of  whom  I  can  not  speak 
too  highly.  During  the  time  they  were  with  me  they 
were  indefatigable  in  the  discharge  of  the  respon- 
sible duties  for  which  they  had  been  engaged — Mr. 
Horton  as  a  professional  surveyor,  and  Mr.  Keay  as 
his  assistant;  and  both  repeatedly  assured  me  of  their 
unqualified  belief  in  my  position  with  reference  to 
the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  This  testimony 
I  value  the  more  highly  because  they  are  both  quite 
familiar  with  the  region  around  the  Headwaters  of 
the  river.  On  parting,  they  each  handed  me  a  written 
document  expressing  their  decided  views,  and  fully 
endorsing  all  my  published  statements  on  the  subject. 

On  the  afternoon  of  September  second,  we  boarded 
the  one  o'clock  train  for  Wadena,  arriving  in  the 
evening  of  the  same  day,  and  finding  very  superior 
accommodations  at  the  Merchants'  Hotel.  On  our 
journey  out,  this  house  was  too  full  to  receive  our 
large  party,  which  obliged  us  to  seek  rest  and 
shelter  under  other  roofs.  At  the  "  Merchants' "  we 
now  had  supper,  bed,  and  breakfast.  J.  E.  Reynolds, 
editor  of  the  Wadena  Pioneer,  called  upon  me  in  the 
evening,  and  we  spent  an  hour  in  conversation.  Mr. 
Reynolds  gave  me  much  valuable  information  upon 
the  early  history  of  the  city,  and  of  that  section  of 
Minnesota. 

The  following  morning,  Mr.  Trost,  assisted  by  Mr. 


(393) 


394  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  true  source. 

Shure,  took  an  excellent  photograph  of  the  Mer- 
chants' Hotel,  and  the  little  park  in  front  of  it, 
While  at  Wadena,  several  members  of  the  party  sent 
off  their  dispatches  to  the  press,  having  prepared  them, 
for  the  most  part,  while  in  camp  at  the  Headwaters. 
Mr.  Knowlton  sent  his  narrative  of  the  expedition 
to  the  New  York  Herald;  Mr.  Crane  to  the  Boston 
Herald;  and  others  to  sundry  Eastern  papers  and  the 
Saint  Paul  and  Minneapolis  journals.  Time  allowed 
of  our  taking  a  stroll  through  the  principal  streets 
of  the  town  in  the  morning,  and  we  found  everything 
wearing  an  air  of  prosperity. 

About  eight  o'clock,  we  left  our  agreeable  quarters 
at  the  "Merchants'"  and  boarded  a  train  of  the 
Great  Northern  for  Little  Falls.  The  journey  was 
attended  with  no  event;  but,  in  the  opinion  of  all, 
the  country  looked  beautiful  under  the  rays  of  the 
morning  sun — the  fields  under  cultivation  giving 
promise  of  an  unusually  fine  harvest. 

Little  Falls  was  reached  at  eleven  o'clock  in  the 
forenoon;  and  we  at  once  proceeded  to  "The  Antlers," 
a  hotel  which  would  do  credit  to  a  much  larger  city. 
I  have  seldom  met  a  more  agreeable  man  than  mine 
host  of  The  Antlers,  who  very  kindly  drove  me  to 
Mayor  Eichardson's  office,  whose  acquaintance  I  had 
made  on  passing  Little  Falls  on  my  canoe  voyage  ten 
years  before.  His  Honor  remembered  the  circum- 
stance, and  conversed  with  me  on  the  subject  of  my 
second  visit  to  the  Headwaters  and  the  results  attend- 
ing it. 

In  1881,  Little  Falls  was  a  straggling  village  of  a 
few  hundred  inhabitants.  In  1891,  I  found  it  an 
incorporated  city  of  several  thousand.  On  the  occa- 
sion of  my  first  visit,  I  received  a  very  cordial  wel- 


RETURN   TO   MINNEAPOLIS.  395 

come.  I  must  not  omit  to  state,  before  leaving  The 
Antlers,  that  I  found  in  John  E.  Sutton,  the  pro- 
prietor, a  comrade  who  had  served  with  me  under 
Custer  and  Kilpatrick,  in  the  cavalry  arm  of  the 
service,  during  the  Civil  War.  This  unexpected 
meeting  of  old  comrades  revived  memories  of  the 
past;  but  our  train  was  nearly  due,  and  comrade 
Sutton  insisted  on  driving  me  to  the  station  in  his 
carriage. 

My  companions  were  ready  and  anxious  to  start, 
and  myself  not  less  so,  especially  as  our  next  point 
was  Minneapolis — the  beginning  and  end  of  the  ex- 
pedition. We  arrived  at  the  Union  Depot  at  five 
o'clock,  and  soon  dropped  back  into  our  old  quarters 
on  Harmon  Place.  All  were  in  the  enjoyment  of 
excellent  health,  and  expressed  themselves  well  satis- 
fied with  their  rough  trip  to  the  Headwaters,  and 
with  what  had  been  accomplished.  They  promised 
to  submit  to  me  a  joint  report  on  the  following  day, 
which  they  did,  unanimously  certifying  that  the  True 
Head  of  the  Mississippi  is  in  the  lake  designated  by 
me  in  1881. 

The  duties  which  devolved  upon  us  in  our  inves- 
tigations at  the  Source  of  the  Great  River  having  been 
satisfactorily  fulfilled,  the  gentlemen  composing  the 
party  spent  a  few  days  in  sight- seeing,  visiting  the 
several  beautiful  resorts  in  and  around  Minneapolis, 
and  finally  took  leave  of  each  other,  and  departed 
for  their  respective  homes  in  different  States  widely 
separated.  It  affords  me  much  pleasure  to  add  that, 
throughout  the  trip,  although  all  were  strangers  to 
each  other,  the  most  perfect  harmony  had  prevailed. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

INDORSEMENT  AND   CONCLUSION. 

a~N"  the  following  day,  and  several  days 
succeeding  our  return  to  Minneapolis, 
the  subjoined  indorsements  were  placed 
in  my  hands,  with  the  exception  of 
three  received  at  a  later  period  from 
Park  Rapids.  This  corroborative  tes- 
timony is  presented  with  a  view  to 
establishing  the  fact  that  every  member  of  my  Sec- 
ond Expedition-  fully  confirmed  my  announcement  of 
1881  that  the  heart-shaped  lake  lying  above,  and 
immediately  to  the  south  of,  Itasca,  is  the  True  Source 
of  the  Mississippi.  It  may  be  added  that  the  chief 
reason  for  introducing  these  indorsements  is  found  in 
the  statements  of  a  few  cavilers,  who  have  gratui- 
tously asserted  that  my  companions  were  divided  in 
their  conclusions  as  to  the  ^eal  origin  of  the  Great 
River.  In  a  word,  the  decision  of  the  party  was 
unanimous,  as  will  be  clearly  seen  in  the  report  and 
unsolicited  letters  given  in  this  chapter. 

E.  M.  Horton  of  Park  Rapids,  to  whom  allusion 
has  been  made  in  previous  chapters,  and  who  accom- 
panied the  expedition  in  the  capacity  of  surveyor, 

thus  expresses  his  views: 

Central  House, 
Park  Rapids,  Minnesota, 
September  2,  1891. 
I  was  engaged  by  Captain  Willard  Glazier  on  August  22, 
1891,  to  accompany  his  expedition  to  the  Iiascan  Basin  for  the 
purpose  of  measuring  the  streams  flowing  into  Lake  Itasca 
and  Lake  Glazier:  which  I  did  with  the  foLowins  results.* 


IttDOftSEMEtfT  Attl)   CONCLUSION.  39? 

Assisted  by  Oliver  S.  Keay,  I  measured  all  the  creeks 
flowing  into  the  southwest  arm  of  Lake  Itasca,  and  those 
emptying  into  Lake  Glazier,  and  found  that  Excelsior  Creek, 
an  affluent  of  Lake  Glazier,  is  by  far  the  longest  feeder,  its 
source  being  6,799  feet  farther  from  Lake  Itasca  than  the 
source  of  Nicollet  Creek.  It  is  my  belief  that  the  Source  of 
the  Mississippi  is  in  Lake  Glazier — the  only  well-defined  lody 
of  water,  beyond  Itasca,  having  a  visible  connec  ion  therewilh. 
(Signed)  E.  M.  Horton, 

Surveyor  to  Second  Glazier  Expedition. 

From  Oliver  S.  Keay  of  Park  Rapids: 

Park  Rapids, 
September  4,  1891. 
Being  familiar  with  all  the  lakes,  creeks,  springs,  eleva- 
tions, and  depressions  in  the  Itasca  and  Glazier  basins;  having 
many  times  visited  the  same,  and  the  surrounding  country,  I 
unhesitatingly  affirm  that  the  Glazier  Basin  is  the  larger  of  the 
two.     Lake  Glazier  presents  the  larger  volume  of  running,  or 
living,  water;  and,  from  my  acquaintance  with  the  Mississippi 
Headwaters,  and  the  adjoining  region,  I  firmly  believe  that 
Lake  Glazier  is  the  Primal  Reservoir  of  the  river.    All  unpreju- 
diced persons  who  have  ever  visited  the  two  basins  agree  th  it 
the  Glazier  Lake  is  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 
(Signed)  Oliver  S.  Keay, 

Assistant  Sw  veyor. 

From  Dr.  A.  Munsell  of  Dubuque,  Iowa: 

The  Waverley, 
Minneapolis,  Minnesota, 
September  4,  1891. 
I  was  one  of  a  party  of  gentlemen  who  accompanied  Cap- 
tain Willard  Glazier  to  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  in 
August,  1891,  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  thorough  investiga- 
tion of  that  region,  in  order  to  ascertain  what  was  the  real 
source  of  our  Great  River.     From  all  that  I  there  saw— and  in 
accordance  with  the  rule  which  recognizes  the  source  of  a 
river  in  the  remotest  living  water,  and  in  a  lake,  if  possible — 
I  have  no  hesitation  in  agreeing  with  all  the  other  members  of 
our  expedition  that  Lake  Glazier  is  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi  River. 

(Signed)  A.  Munsell, 

Editor,  Dubuque  Trade  Journal. 

From  Pearce  Giles  of  Camden,  New  Jersey: 

1215  Harmon  Place, 
Minneapolis,  Minnesota, 
September  4,  1891. 
On  August  17,  1891,  I  left  Minneapolis  in  company  with 
Captain  Willard  Glazier  and  a  party  of  gentlemen  who  had 


398  DISCOVERT   OF   THE   TRUE   SOURCE. 

volunteered  to  proceed  with  him  to  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi in  Northern  Minnesota,  to  ascertain,  by  investigation, 
whether  his  claim  to  have  located  the  True  Source  of  that  river 
was  entitled  to  the  recognition  of  geographers.  We  arrived  at 
the  Headwaters  August  23d,  and  left  September  1st,  having 
thus  devoted  ten  da}Ts  to  the  duty  we  bad  assumed  of  solving 
the  question  as  to  the  exact  source  of  the  Great  River. 
We  were  ably  assisted  by  Messrs.  Horton  and  Keay  of  Park 
Rapids,  Minnesota,  two  practical  surveyors,  having  large 
acquaintance  with  the  region ;  and  the  affluents  of  Lakes  Itasca 
and  Glazier  were  all,  on  different  days,  duly  meandered,  and 
their  length,  width,  and  depth  carefully*  measured.  The 
result,  as  shown  by  the  joint  report  of  the  surveyors,  con- 
firmed by  the  gentlemen  assisting  in  the  survey,  is  most  con- 
vincing to  my  mind  that  Lake  Glazier,  lying  to  the  south  of 
Lake  Itasca,  and  separated  from  the  latter  by  an  elevated  ridge 
of  land,  is  unquestionably  the  True  Head  of  the  Mississippi, 
being  united  to  Lake  Itasca  by  a  permanently  flowing  stream 
— the  ' '  Infant  Mississippi. "  From  what  I  have  personally  wit- 
nessed and  carefully  investigated  on  the  spot,  I  believe  that  no 
honest  inquirer  can  arrive  at  any  other  conclusion. 

Pjjarce  Giles. 

From  Rev.  John  C.  Crane  of  West  Millbury,  Mas- 
sachusetts: 

1215  Harmon  Place, 
Minneapolis,  Minnesota, 
September  8,  1891. 
I  was  a  member  of  the  Second  Glazier  Expedition  to  the 
Headwaters  of  the   Mississippi   in   August  and   September, 
1891,   and  made  a  thorough   personal    investigation  of   all 
lakes,  creeks,  and  springs  around  Lakes  Itasca  and  Glazier. 
I  was  accompanied  by  the  other  members  of  the  exploring 
party,  and  together  we  traced  the  feeders  of  both  lakes  to 
their  origin,     The  conclusion  I  have  arrived  at  is  forced  upon 
me — af i er  laborious  efforts  to  discover  the  truth — that  Lake 
Glazier,  lying  directly  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  is  the  real  Head 
or  Source  of  the  River;   and  that  Lake  Itasca  is  the  first 
expansion  of   the  stream  after  leaving  its  source  in  Lake 
Glazier. 

(Signed)  John  C.  Crane, 

Correspondent  of  i/ie  Boston  Herald. 

From  D.  S.  Knowlton,  Boston: 

The  Waverley, 
Minneapolis,  Minnesota, 
September  4,  1891. 
As   a    member    of     Captain    Glazier's    Second    Expedi- 
tion to  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  in  August,  1891, 
I    desire    to    add    my    testimony    to    the    validity    of    his 


INDORSEMENT  AND   CONCLUSION.  399 

ciaim— that  the  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  255  acres 
in  extent  and  45  feet  deep,  is  the  veritable  Source  of  the 
Father  of  Waters.  I  made  a  most  careful  personal  investi- 
gation of  the  region  around  the  Itasca  and  Glazier  lakes, 
and  the  latter  has  unquestionably  the  strongest  claim  to 
be  considered  the  Source  of  the  river.  Geographers,  scien- 
tists, and  others  will  be  entirely  justified  in  recognizing  and 
designating  Lake  Glazier  as  the  Ultimate  Source  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. 

(Signed)  D.  S.  Knowlton, 

Editor,  Boston  Times. 

From    Dr.    Charles  E.    Harrison   of    Davenport, 

Iowa: 

The  Waverley, 
Minneapolis,  Minnesota, 
September  4,  1891. 
Having  been  a  member  of  the  company  of  gentlemen  who, 
during  the  month  of  August,  1891,  made  a  careful  investiga- 
tion of  the  several  streams  and  bodies  of  water  emptying  into 
Lake  Itasca  from  the  south,   I  believe  that  the  claim  of  Cap- 
tain Glazier  in  locating  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River  is 
fully  justified,  and  that  geographers  and  others  should  recog- 
nize the  Glazier  Lake  as  its  True  Head. 

(Signed)  C.  E.  Harrison, 

Davenport  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences. 

From  Henry  R.  Cobb  of  Park  Rapids: 

September  2,  1891. 
I  accompanied  the  Glazier  expedition  to  the  Headwaters  of 
the  Mississippi,  in  the  month  of  August.  1891,  and  found  Lake 
Glazier,  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  to  be  the  largest  well-defined 
body  of  water  which  has  any  visible  connection  with  the 
Mississippi  through  Lake  Itasca. 

(Signed)  Henry  R.  Cobb, 

Postmaster,  Park  Rapids. 

From  Fred  J.  Trost  of  Toledo,  Ohio: 

900  Hennepin  Avenue, 
Minneapolis,   Minnesota, 
September  3,  1891. 
I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  one  of  a  party  to  accompany 
Captain  Glazier  to  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi      I  made 
photographs  of  all  the  lakes  and  streams  flowing  into  Lake 
Glazier,  and  into  Lake  Itasca;  and,  from  personal  observation 
and  investigation,  I  feel  perfectly  certain  that  Lake  Glazier  is 
the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River. 

(Signed)  Fred  J.  Trost,/ 

Photograplier,  Second  Glazier  Expedition. 


400  DtSCOVEtlY   OP  THE  TRUE  SOURCE. 

From  Albert  W.  Whitney  of  Beloit  College,  Wis- 
consin: 

The  Wavekley, 
Minneapolis,  Minnesota, 
September  4,  3891. 
Of  all  the  bodies  of  water  at  the  head  of  the  Mississippi,  1 
consider  that  Lake  Glazier  f  ultills  the  greatest  number  of  con- 
ditions necessary  to  make  it  the  Source  of  that  river. 
(SigDed)  Albert  W.  Whitney, 

Botanist  to  Expedition. 

From  Winfield  Scott  Shure  of  York,  Pennsylvania: 

900  Hennepin  Avenue, 

Minneapolis,   Minnesota, 

September  8,  1891. 

I  have  explored,  in  compa  y  with  the  other  members  of 
Captain  Glazier's  expedition  of  A  gust  and  September.  1891, 
all  the  region  within  the  limits  of  the  Itasca  and  Glaz  er 
basins,  and  certify  to  the  following  facts: 

First. — That  there  is  no  other  body  of  water  to  ti  e  south 
of  Itasca,  and  tributary  to  it,  that  is  so  large  and  well  denned 
as  the  fine  lake  known  as  Lake  Glazier. 

Second. — That  the  two  ponds,  called,  by  some,  "Nicollet's 
First  and  Second  lakes,"  emptying  into  lake  Itasca,  are,  in 
their  origin,  not  of  sufficient  remoteness  or  importance  to  be 
considered  the  source  of  the  Great  River;  and,  consequently, 
have  no  claim  to  that  distinction. 

Third. — That  Lake  Glaz'er,  above  and  beyond  Itasca,  fed 
by  five  permanently  flowing  affluents,  having  their  sources 
more  remote  from  Itasca  than  any  other  feeders  falling  into 
that  lake,  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 

(Signed)  W.  S.  Shuhe. 


CONCLUSION. 

I  feel  very  confident  that  all  who  are  interested  in 
the  question  discussed  in  Part  Third  of  this  volume 
will  find  ample  evidence  to  sustain  the  author  in  his 
claim  to  have  been  the  first  to  definitely  locate  the 
True  Head  of  the  Mississippi.  As  I  have  said  in  a 
previous  publication,  I  am  well  aware  that  I  assume 
grave  responsibility  in  locating  the  Source  of  the 
greatest  river  of  North  America,  and  correcting  a 


INDORSEMENT  AND    CONCLUSION.  401 

geographical  error  of  half  a  century's  standing; 
especially,  since  I  follow  in  the  footsteps  of  such  emi- 
nent explorers  as  Pike,  Cass,  Beltrami,  Schoolcraft, 
and  Nicollet;  and  in  view  of  the  fact  that  I  have  pre- 
sumed to  pass  the  limit  of  their  explorations. 

The  statement  that  the  lake  now  generally  accepted 
by  geographers  as  the  Primal  Reservoir  was  so  re- 
garded prior  to  the  organization  of  my  First  Expe- 
dition can  not  be  substantiated;  on  the  contrary, 
both  press  and  people  throughout  Minnesota  were 
ignorant  of  its  importance,  or  even  of  its  existence, 
so  far  as  we  were  able  to  ascertain  by  diligent  inquiry, 
from  Winona  to  Brainerd;  and,  in  fact,  I  may  add, 
that  the  missionary,  Indian  agent,  and  post-trader  at 
Leech  Lake  knew  no  other  source  of  the  Mississippi 
than  Lake  Itasca,  except  what  they  had  been  told  by 
my  chief  guide,  Chenowagesic,  and  a  few  other  Chip- 
pewas  in  that  vicinity.  Barrett  Channing  Paine,  a 
member  of  my  party,  fully  confirms  me  in  this 
assertion  in  his  letters  to  the  Saint  Paul  and  Minne- 
apolis papers  of  that  period.  These  letters  prove 
most  conclusively  that  the  people  of  Minnesota  had 
no  knowledge  whatever  of  the  lake  beyond  Itasca, 
until  it  was  announced  by  us  through  the  medium  of 
the  press,  in  1881. 

I  assume  that  my  position,  with  regard  to  locating 
the  True  Source,  is  precisely  the  same  as  that  of 
Schoolcraft  in  connection  with  Lake  Itasca.  When 
William  Morrison,  the  fur  trader,  pitched  his  tent  on 
Schoolcraft  Island,  in  1804,  he  was  probably  not  aware 
that  the  outlet  of  the  lake  on  which  he  looked  was  the 
Mississippi.  Schoolcraft  followed,  at  the  head  of  an 
expedition,  twenty-eight  years  later,  and  claimed  the 
lake  as  the  Source  of  the  Great  River.     It  is  very 

26 


402  DISCOVERY   OF  THE  TRtJE   SOURCE. 

generally  admitted  that  Morrison  had  seen  Itasca 
before  Schoolcraft,  but  no  one  questioned  that  the 
latter  was  entitled  to  the  credit  of  discovery,  since  he 
was  the  first  to  establish  the  fact  that  the  Mississippi 
was  its  outlet. 

I  do  not  desire  to  pass  a  reasonable  limit  in  my 
effort  to  establish  a  geographical  truth,  but,  having 
announced  that  the  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca — the 
Pokegama  of  the  Chippewas — is  the  Ultimate  Reser- 
voir, I  do  not  feel  disposed  to  be  thrust  aside  by  those 
who  know  comparatively  little  or  nothing  of  that 
region.  Assuming  that  the  conclusions  arrived  at  by 
every  member  of  both  my  First  and  Second  expedi- 
tions are  incontrovertible,  it  naturally  follows: 

First. — That  Lake  Itasca  can  not  longer  be  consid- 
ered as  the  origin  of  the  Mississippi,  for  the  reason 
that  it  is  the  custom,  agreeably  to  the  definition  of 
geographers,  to  fix  upon  the  remotest  water,  and  a 
lake,  if  possible,  as  the  source  of  a  river. 

Second. — That  the  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  con- 
nected therewith  by  a  perennial  stream,  is  the  Primal 
Reservoir,  or  True  Source;  that  it  was  not  so  known 
or  recognized  prior  to  the  visit  of  my  party  in  1881; 
and  that  we  were  the  first  to  locate  its  feeders  cor- 
rectly, and  establish  its  true  relation  to  the  Great 
River. 

Third. — That  Schoolcraft  could  not  have  seen  the 
lake  located  by  me,  else  he  would  have  assigned  it  its 
true  character  in  the  narrative  of  his  expedition. 

Fourth. — That  Nicollet,  who  followed  Schoolcraft, 
could  not  have  been  aware  of  its  existence,  as  he  gives 
it  no  place  upon  his  map,  or  description  in  the  account 
of  his  explorations. 

Fifth. — That  Julius  Chambers  did  not  see  this  lake, 


INDORSEMENT  AND   CONCLUSION.  403 

as  his  published  statements  prove  very  conclusively 
that  he  ascended  Nicollet  Creek  to  the  first  pond  on 
that  stream,  and  describes  a  lakelet  in  a  floating  bog, 
instead  of  the  large  and  beautiful  lake  which  is  now 
generally  regarded  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 
Finally. — Whatever  the  verdict  upon  the  merits  of 
my  claim  to  have  been  the  first  to  definitely  locate  the 
lake  beyond  Itasca  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  to  have  published  it  to  the  world,  it  was  certainly 
not  known  to  the  white  inhabitants  of  Northern  Min- 
nesota prior  to  1881.  Lake  Itasca  was  still  recognized 
as  the  Fountain-head,  was  so  placed  upon  all  maps, 
and  taught  as  such  in  all  the  schools.  I  simply  claim 
to  have  established  the  fact  that  there  is  a  beautiful 
lake  above  and  beyond  Itasca,  wider  and  deeper  than 
that  lake,  with  woodland  shores,  with  five  constantly 
flowing  streams  for  its  feeders,  and  in  every  way 
worthy  of  the  position  it  occupies  as  the  Primal  Res- 
ei  voir  or  True  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters. 


?~ 


(404) 


APPENDIX 


CONCERNING 

©It*    ®r*t£   Source 


OF  THE 

MISSISSIPPI 

BY 
PEARCE   GILES, 

MEMBER  OP 

Second  Glazier  Expedition, 
1891. 


APPENDIX. 


-HAVE  undertaken  to  prepare  an  Appendix  to 
Captain  Glazier's  book  on  the  "Headwaters 
op  the  Mississippi."  I  am  well  acquainted 
with  every  detail  of  his  claim  to  have  located 
the  Primal  Reservoir  of  that  river;  have  read  all 
that  he  has  written  upon  the  subject,  and 
much  that  has  been  written  by  others,  in  favor 
of,  and  opposed  to,  his  views.  I  have  known 
him  intimately  for  many  years;  have  conversed 
with  him  frequently  upon  the  subject  of  his  expeditions 
through  Northern  Minnesota  to  the  True  Source  of  the  Great 
River;  have  journeyed  with  him  over  thousands  of  miles  of 
this  country;  have  looked,  and  floated  with  him,  upon  the 
beautiful  sheet  of  water  which  he  asserts  a>;d  demonstrates  is 
the  reservoir  of  the  remotest  springs  of  the  Mississippi,  to 
which  his  companions,  in  1881,  gave  the  name  of  Lake 
Glazier.  I  have,  with  great  care,  personally  investigated 
the  grounds  upon  which  he  bases  his  claim;  and  for  thest, 
reasons  I  feel  competent  to  lay  before  the  readers  of  his  book 
some  material  which  I  trust  may  be  of  interest  to  geographers 
and  educators,  and  to  those  who  have  given  any  attention  to 
the  ten  years  of  controversy  which  have  followed  his  announce- 
ment of  1881,  that  a  certain  lake,  immediately  to  the  south  of 
Lake  Itasca,  is  the  Fountain- bead  of  the  Father  of  Waters. 


(407) 


(408) 


A. 

"     FIRST   GLAZIER   EXPEDITION   AND    ITS    RESULTS. 

In  his  work,  "Down  the  Great  River,"  Captain  Glazier 
clearly  explains  his  motive  for  projecting  his  First  Expedition 
to  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi.  He  therein  states  that 
he  had  heard  that  much  uncertainty  prevailed  on  the  subject 
of  the  exact  location  of  its  Source,  and  decided  to  investigate 
the  matter  for  himself,  an  1  f»r  the  satisfaction  of  others  who, 
possibly,  had  less  time  at  their  disposal  to  devote  to  such  an 
inquiry.  He  was  not  over-sanguine  as  to  the  issue  of  his 
venture,  but  little  dreamed  of  the  acrimonious  and  unreason- 
ing opposition  and  contradiction  he  was  fated  subsequently  to 
encounter.  He  believed  that  he  was  about  to  engage  in  a 
laudable  undertaking,  the  result  of  which  might  possibly 
prove  of  some  interest  to  students  of  geography  and  others. 
Hence,  he  employed  his  means  to  attain  an  object  which  ap- 
pears to  have  eluded  the  efforts  of  all  previous  explorers — the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi  was  still  in  doubt,  although  its 
mouth  had  been  known  over  two  hundred  years  before.  This 
was  sufficient  reason,  he  thought,  for  further  exploration;  and 
possessed  of  a  strong  desire  to  see  a  part  of  the  country  but 
little  known,  he  resolved  to  organize  and  equip  an  expedition, 
proceed  to  Lake  Itasca  and  investigate  its  right  to  the  distinc- 
tion long  accorded  it  of  standing  at  the  Head  of  the  Mississippi. 

July  4,  1881,  Captain  Glazier,  accompanied  by  his  brother 
George  of  Chicago,  and  Barrett  Channing  Paine  of  the  Saint 
Paul  Pioneer  Press,  boarded  a  train  at  Saint  Paul,  en  route  to 
the  then  frontier  town  of  Braiuerd,  near  the  boundary  of  the 
Chippewa  Indian  Reservation.  They  reached  Brainerd  July 
seventh,  and  remained  there  five  days  to  complete  their  com- 
missariat supplies,  and  make  arrangements  for  a  journey 
through  the  wilderness  and  a  possible  detection  at  the  Source 
of  the  river.  Captain  Glazier  also  gathered  much  information 
at  this  point  concerning  the  topography  of  the  country,  and 

(409) 


410  APPENDIX. 

finally  decided  to  proceed  via  Leech  Lake  as  a  more  direct 
course  to  his  destination  than  that  adopted  by  previous  ex- 
plorers, who  had  passed  up  the  Mississippi  through  Lakes 
Winnebegoshish,  Cass,  and  Beuiidji,  a  longer  and  less-inviting 
route.  He  therefore  secured  wagon  conveyance  to  Leech 
Lake,  distant  seventy -five  miles  from  Brainerd,  which  led 
through  an  immense  forest  and  jungle  of  pine  and  underbrush? 

Leech  Lake  is  a  small  settlement  standing  on  the  banks  of 
the  lake  of  that  name,  and  consists  of  about  a  dozen  Govern- 
ment buildings  and  log  cabin?,  with  several  wigwams.  It 
was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Chippewa  Indian  Agency,  which 
is  now  united  with  the  White  Earth  and  Red  Lake  agencies, 
and  at  the  period  of  Captain  Glazier's  visit  was  under  the 
superintendence  of  Major  Ruflfee,  as  Agent.  Captain  Glazier 
was  fortunate,  at  this  stage  of  his  journey,  in  securing  the 
valuable  services  of  a  Chippewa  Indian,  named  Chenowagesic, 
who  was  well  informed  concerning  the  Itascan  Basin  and  the 
region  surrounding  it.  He  told  the  Captain  that  the  country 
around  the  Headwaters  of  the  Great  River  had  been  his  hunt- 
ing-ground for  mauy  years,  and  being  informed  of  the  wish  of 
the  party  to  discover  whether  Itasca  was  the  Source  of  the 
river,  Chenowagesic  declared  emphatically  that  Itasca  was  not 
the  True  Head  of  May- see-see-bee,  a  fact  well  known  to  him- 
self and  many  Indians  who  had  hunted  with  him. 

Two  other  Indians  wrcre  also  engaged  at  Leech  Lake,  one  as 
interpreter,  the  other  as  voyagcur.  The  three  placed  their 
birch  canoes  at  the  disposal  of  the  party  for  use  on  their  jour- 
ney through  and  across  the  numerous  lakes  ar.d  streams  that 
intervened  between  Leech  Lake  atid  their  destination..  July 
seventeenth  witnessed  the  departure  of  the  party  from  the  set- 
tlement. An  hour's  paddling  carried  them  across  one  of  the 
several  arms  of  the  lake,  and  a  short  portage  brought  them  to 
another  arm  from  fifteen  to  twenty  miles  long,  crossing  which 
they  came  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kabekanka  River.  Guided 
by  Chenowagesic,  they  ascended  this  stream  until  a  small 
lake  or  expansion  of  the  river  was  reached,  and  ultimately 
a  large  and  picturesque  lake,  nearly  seven  miles  in  length. 
On  its  banks  they  pitched  tenls  for  the  night,  and  at 
break  of  day  July  eighteenth  again  launched  and  pushed 
on  to  the  upper  end  of  the  lake.     Chenowagesic,  on  being 


APPENDIX.  411 

asked,  informed  the  Captain  that  the  Indians  had  no  name 
for  this  lake,  whereupon  he  conferred  upon  it  the  name  of 
"Garfield,"  in  honor  of  the  President. 

Arrived  at  the  head  of  Lake  Garfield,  a  long  portage  of 
nearly  three  miles  confronted  them.  This  was  accomplished 
by  the  Indians  without  the  slightest  sign  of  fatigue  or  discom- 
fort, notwithstanding  the  heavy  packs  they  bore  upon  their 
heads  and  shoulders,  including  the  canoes;  but  the  white  men 
suffered  much  from  the  intense  heat,  the  roughness  of  the  trail, 
and  the  mosquitoes,  which  hovered  like  a  cloud  over  the  low- 
lands. , 

Rested  and  recovered  from  the  tiresome  portage  of  the 
forenoon,  they  resumed  their  line  of  march.  Late  in  the  after- 
noon the  party  reached  a  series  of  five  lakes — a  not  unwel- 
come sight  after  their  tramp  in  the  broiling  sun.  Again  on 
the  water,  they  passed  through  three  of  the  lakes,  with,  neces- 
sarily, intermediate  portages,  and  reaching  the  fourth,  con- 
cluded to  encamp  for  the  night. 

At  sunrise  the  following  morning  they  breakfasted,  and  at 
seven  o'clock  re-embarked.  By  ten  o'clock  the  fifth  lake  was 
entered.  Here  the  guides  informed  Captain  Glazier  that  these 
lakes  had  never  before  been  seen  by  white  men.  He  therefore, 
after  consulting  with  his  brother  and*Mr.  Paine,  named  them 
in  the  order  in  which  they  had  been  passed — Bayard,  Stone- 
man,  Pleasanton,  Custer,  and  Kilpatrick,  generals  who  were 
severally  his  commanding  officers  during  the  War  of  the 
Rebellion.  Eight  exhausting  portages  occurred  during  the 
day,  and  an  equal  number  of  lakes  were  crossed  after  leaving 
Lake  Kilpatrick.  The  three  largest  of  the  latter  received  from 
the  Captain  the  names  of  Gregg,  Davies,  and  Sheridan,  dis 
tiuguished  cavalry  leaders  of  the  Union  army. 

One  of  the  most  expansive  bodies  of  water,  seen  between 
Leech  Lake  and  Lake  Itasca,  had  an  average  width  of  about 
five  miles,  and  bore  an  unpronounceable  Indian  name,  signi- 
fying "Blue  Snake."  To  this  sheet  of  water  the  Captain 
gave  the  name  of  his  brother  George.  Lake  George  was 
crossed,  and  the  canoes  conveyed  to  the  highest  ground  in  the 
vicinity.  The  sun  was  declining,  and,  the  whole  party  needing 
rest,  tents  were  again  pitched.  Early  the  following  morning, 
all  eager  to  reach  their  destination,  and  fortified  by  a  good 


412  APPENDIX. 

night's  sleep,  the  canoes  were  pushed  into  a  fine  sheet  of 
water  named  by  the  Captain  Lake  Paine,  after  his  companion 
of  the  Saint  Paul  Pioneer  Press.  This  lake  is  only  a  short  dis 
tance  from  Lake  George,  the  intervening  space  being  compara- 
tively level,  and  covered  with  jack-pines  and  underbrush. 
Crossing  Lake  Paine,  another  portage  of  half  a  mile  presented 
itself,  and  the  River  Naiwa  was  reached,  a  stream  several 
miles  in  length.  Descending  this  river  a  distance  of  five  or 
six  miles,  they  disembarked  and  portaged  in  a  westerly  direc- 
tion, reaching  another  stream,  that  appeared  to  be  a  favorite 
haunt  for  wild  fowl,  which  were  very  numerous,  and  seem- 
ingly unaffected  by  the  approach  of  man.  Paddling  four 
hours  up  this  stream  they  came  to  a  lake  which  Captain 
Glazier  believed  to  be  the  source  of  the  Eastern  Pork  of  the 
Mississippi.  This  water  was  passed  over  in  twenty  minutes, 
and  the  name  "Elvira"  conferred  upon  it,  in  memory  of  a 
deceased  sister  of  the  Captain. 

At  the  southern  end  of  Lake  Elvira,  the  canoes  entered 
its  inlet,  which  flows  in  a  northerly  directi  n,  and  discharges 
into  the  main  stream  originating  in  Lake  Glazier,  not  far 
from  the  southern  end  of  Lake  Bemidji.  It  was  not  laid 
down  on  the  maps,  and  was  named  De  Soto  River  by  Captain 
Glazier,  in  honor  of  ti.'c  renowned  d;scoverer  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. The  day  was  now  drawing  to  a  close,  and,  nearly 
exhauste  1  by  the  portages  over  the  roughest  region  of  Minne- 
sota, it  was  promptly  decided  to  encamp  for  the  night. 

In  the  morning  a  heavy  fog,  rising  from  a  swamp  in  their 
front,  obscured  the  trail,  and  the  journey  could  not  be  resumed 
until  seven  o'clock.  Moving  forwaid  in  Indian  file,  they 
rested  thirteen  times  bi  fore  reaching  the  shores  of  Lake  Itasca. 
Between  three  and  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  their  eager 
eyes  beheld  the  silvery  waters  of  the  lake,  and  in  a  few  min- 
utes the  party  were  floating  on  its  bosom  on  their  way  to 
Schoolcraft  Island,  near  the  center  of  the  lake.  On  this 
solitary  isle,  Henry  R  >we  Schoolcraft  encamped  sixty  years 
ago,  and  believed  that  in  the  waters  that  surrounded  him  he 
had  discovered  the  long-sought  for  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 
This  belief  he  afterward  announced  to  the  world,  and  for  over 
fifty  years  the  lake  was  helJ,  on  the  authority  of  Schoolcraft, 
to  be  the  Ultimate  Head  of  the  Father  of  Waters,  no  one  gain- 


APPENDIX.  413 

saying  it.  This,  doubtless,  was  for  the  reason  that  very  few 
persons,  except  Indians,  had  ever  visited  it,  the  region  around 
Lake  Itasca  being  well-nigh  inaccessible,  and  entirely  so  with- 
out a  competent  guide. 

Schoolcraft  Island  is  about  three-quarters  of  an  acre  in 
extent,  and  so  densely  covered  with  trees,  shrubs,  av.d  under- 
growth that  the  Glazier  party  found  some  difficulty  in  clear- 
ing a  space  for  their  tents.  The  appearance  of  Itasca  and  its 
environment  of  forest  lands  is  highly  attractive.  It  is  about 
five  miles  in  length,  with  an  average  width  of  about  half  a 
mile.  Its  greatest  length  is  from  southeast  to  northwest.  It 
has  three  arms  radiating  from  its  center,  somewhat  like  those 
of  a  star -fish.  One  arm  points  to  the  southeast,  one  to  the 
southwest,  and  the  rem  Mining  one  extends  northward  to  the 
outlet  of  the  lake. 

Chenowagesic,  perfec'ly  familiar  with  the  region,  informed 
the  Captain  that  the  name  of  the  lake  was  Omushkos.  School- 
craft himself,  in  the  narrative  of  his  expedition,  Chapter 
XXIII,  says: 

"I  inquired  of  Ozawindib  the  Indian  name  of  this  lake;  he  replied, 
Omushkos,  which  is  the  Chippewa  name  of  the  Elk.  Having  previously- 
got  an  inkling  of  some  of  their  mythological  and  necromantic  notions 
of  the  origin  and  mutations  of  the  country,  which  permitted  the  use  of 
a  female  name  for  it,  I  denominated  it  Itasca.'1'1 

Having  supped  and  rested  on  the  island,  the  exploring 
party  re-embarked  on  the  morning  of  the  twenty-second,  at 
eight  o'clock,  and  began  coasting  Itasca.  Chenowagesic  again 
assured  the  Captain  and  his  companions  that  he  was  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  all  the  streams,  lakes,  and  ponds  within  a 
hundred  miles,  and  impressed  them  with  his  entire  trust- 
worthiness. In  coasting  the  lake  they  found  the  outlets  of 
six  small  streams,  two  only  having  well-defined  mouths,  and 
four  simply  filtering  into  the  lake  through  swampy  ground. 

Reaching  the  southern  extremity  of  the  southwestern  arm 
of  the  lake,  the  canoes  were  forced,  with  some  difficulty, 
through  a  tangled  mass  of  reeds  and  rushes  to  the  mouth  of 
a  stream  about  seven  feet  w'de,  but  effectually  c  ncealed  from 
view  by  dense  lake  vegetation.  Encouraged  by  their  guide, 
the  canoes  were  pointed  up  this  affluent,  whieh>  was  much 
obstructed  by  fallen  trees  and  occasional  sand-bars.     These 


414  APPENDIX. 

were,  however,  removed  by  the  crews,  and  the  boats  again 
urged  forward.  Elevated  land  appeared  on  each  side  of  the 
stream,  that  on  their  right  rising  to  the  dignity  of  a  hill.  This 
hill,  or  ridge,  Chenowagesic  explained,  overhung  the  Source 
of  the  Father  of  Waters  toward  which  they  were  speeding, 
and  which  separated  it  from  Itasca.  This  Indian  was  an 
exceptionally  intelligent  man,  as  well  as  a  faithful  guide.  The 
object  of  Iheir  search  was  soon  reached — a  large  sheet  of 
smooth,  transparent  water  of  surpassing  beauty.  Afloat  on  its 
surface,  the  conviction  forced  itself  upon  them  that  the  Source 
of  the  Mississippi  could  no  longer  be  a  subject  of  uncertainty. 
The  canoes  were  at  once  paddled  across  the  lake,  a  distance  of 
nearly  two  miles,  to  a  promontory  at  its  southern  extremity. 

This  point  of  land,  with  its  picturesque  sho"e  projecting 
into  the  lake,  gives  the  latter  the  shape  of  a  heart,  a  fitting 
resemblance  for  thesourceof  the  mighty  river.  Encompassed 
by  high  ground,  thickly  clustered  and  adorned  with  trees  of 
diverse  kinds,  dominated  by  the  stately  Norway  pine,  the 
waters  of  this  beautiful  lake  scintillate  under  the  rays  of  the 
sun,  and  sparkle  like  the  luster  of  a  million  gems.  Its  broad 
surface  is  singularly  free  from  that  opaqueness  which  mars  the 
beauty  of  many  of  the  surrounding  lakes,  including  Itasca. 
It  is  supplied  by  springs,  some  in  its  bed,  but  two  feeders 
were  found,  on  careful  investigation,  under  the  guidance  of 
Chenowagesic,  to  originate  in  sand-hills  a  few  miles  to  the 
southward,  and  flowed  into  the  lake  on  each  side  of  the 
promontory;  while  a  third  entered  on  the  northwestern  shore 
of  the  lake.  These  affluents,  small  but  significant,  were 
named,  respectively,  Eagle,  Excelsior,  and  Deer  creeks.  At 
the  extreme  point,  or  cape,  of  the  promontory,  a  spring  was 
discovered  whose  water  was  deliciously  cool.  The  shores  of 
the  lake  were  then  investigated. 

Returning  to  the  promontory,  the  party  was  called  into  line, 
and  Captain  Glazier  made  a  few  remarks,  expressing  his  con- 
fident belief  that  they  had  found  the  True  Source  of  the 
Great  River,  a  discovery  which  had  baffled  the  attempts  of 
previous  explorers;  and  they  had  therefore  added  something 
to  the  geographical  knowledge  of  the  country.  He  dwelt  on 
the  error  of  Schoolcraft  in  assigning  this  distinction  to  Lake 
Itasca,  which  was  now  clearly  seen  to  be  merely  the  first 


APPEtfDIX.  415 

expansion  of  the  river,  after  leaving  its  source  in  the  lake  they 
were  looking  upon.  Chenowagesic  had  told  him  that  the 
Indian  name  of  this  lake  was  Pokegama,  which  the  interpreter 
explained  signified  "  The  Place  where  the  Waters  Gather,"  or, 
in  other  words,  the  Primal  Reservoir.  If  such  was  the  case, 
it  was  unquestionably  the  Fountain-head,  or  True  Source, 
of  the  Mississippi. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  Captain's  remarks,  Mr.  Paine 
stepped  forward  and  spoke  of  the  justness  of  his  views,  in 
which  the  eniire  party  concurred.  He  then  moved  that 
the  lake  be  named  Glazier,  in  honor  of  the  man  whose 
determination  and  perseverance  to  learn  the  truth  on  a  sub- 
ject of  so  much  general  interest  had  successfully  accom- 
plished the  end  he  had  in  view  on  leaving  Saint  Paul.  The 
motion  of  Mr.  Paine  was  seconded  by  the  interpreter,  Moses 
Lagard,  and  adopted  by  acclamation;  Captain  Glazier,  mean- 
while, protesting  that  he  would  prefer  it  should  retain  its 
descriptive  Indian  name  of  Pokegama. 

I  may  here  remark  that  some  of  Captain  Glazier's  critics 
have  recently  applied  the  term  "Elk  "  to  this  sheet  of  water, 
a  name  which,  according  to  Schoolcraft,  as  we  have  seen,  was 
the  aboriginal  designation  of  Lake  Itasca.  Lake  Glazier  is 
entirely  disconnected  with  Itasca,  the  two  lakes  being  sepa- 
rated by  a  high  ridge  and  perfectly  independent  of  each 
other.  A  perennial  stream  at  the  foot  of  the  ridge,  up  which 
the  party  ascended  in  their  canoes,  and  to  which  the  name  of 
"Infant  Mississippi"  has  been  appropriately  given,  carries  the 
waters  of  the  upper  lake  to  its  lower  neighbor,  on  its  long 
route  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Thus  the  lake  above  Itasca  is 
in  no  sense  a  part  of  Itasca,  and  to  call  it  "Elk"  Lake  is  an 
anomaly,  and  an  unworthy  evasion,  a  perversion  of  scientific 
accuracy,  misleading  to  the  student  and,  in  short,  a  geograph- 
ical blunder.  Itasca  has  been  "Elk  Lake"  from  time 
immemorial,  according  to  Indian  tradition;  while  Pokegama, 
since  1881,  has  been  popularly  transmuted  into  "Lake 
Glazier." 

This  lake,  which  proved  to  be  the  Primal  Reservoir,  or  Ulti- 
mate Head,  of  the  Mississippi,  was  found  by  measurement  to 
cover  an  area  of  255  acres,  with  an  average  depth  of  forty- 
five  feet.     The  results  of  the  First  Glazier  Expedition  were 


416  APPENDIX. 

so  far  satisfactory  that,  on  their  announcement  to  the  public 
through  the  press,  geographers,  instructors,  and  educational 
publishers  were  unanimous  in  their  acceptance  of  the  Glazier 
claim,  and  a  change  was  forthwith  made  in  all  maps  of  the 
State  of  Minnesota. 

Some  of  the  opponents  of  C  iptain  Glazier's  published  views 
on  the  subject  have  of  late  maintained  that  Schoolcraft  visited 
the  lake  ab  >ve  Itasca  in  1832,  and  Nicollet  in  1836.  There  is 
not  a  word  in  the  '•  Narrative  "  of  the  former  to  indicate  that 
he  went  south  of  the  island  which  bears  his  name.  All  the 
evidence  points  in  the  opposite  direction,  and  it  must  be  clear 
to  the  careful  reader  that  he  remained  on  the  island  only  a  few 
hours.  He  says  he  was  hurried,  having  an  appointment  to 
meet  certain  Indians  in  council  at  the  mouth  of  Crow  Wing 
River.  His  map  of  Lake  Itasca  does  not  show  the  lake  to  the 
south  of  it.  Hence  it  is  presumable  that  he  could  not  have 
coasted  Itasca  for  its  feeders,  which,  to  have  been  effectually 
accomplished,  would  ha<e  occupied  him  an  entire  day  at  least. 
Even  if  he  had  done  so,  the  strong  probability  is  that,  be'ng 
hurried,  he  would  not  have  found  the  concealed  (ntrance  to  the 
stream  which  led  to  the  lake  beyond.  Captain  Glazier  admits 
that  he  was  largely  indebted  to  his  chief  guide,  and  that  had 
it  not  been  for  Chenowagesic  he  would  possibly  never  have 
discovered  the  mouth  of  this  important  affluent.  The  time 
allotted  himself  by  Schoolcraft,  as  indicated  in  his  "Narra- 
tive," would  not  have  allowed  him  to  ascend  the  southwestern 
arm  of  Itasca,  much  less  so  to  p:tss  up  the  creek  to  the  impor- 
tant lake  beyond  it.  The  conclusion  to  be  drawn  from  his 
1 '  Narrative  "  is,  that  he  was  only  between  two  and  three  hours 
wiihin  the  Itascan  Basin,  and,  in  his  eagerness  to  depart  on  his 
mission  to  Crow  Wing  River,  he  not  improbably  relied  upon 
his  guide,  Ozawindib,  for  whatever  knowledge  he  obtained  of 
Lake  Itasca  and  its  surroundings. 

If  Nicollet  saw  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  he  certainly 
failed  to  describe  it.  He  shows  on  his  map  only  the  creek 
which  enters  the  southern  end  of  Itasca  and  the  ponds 
through  which  it  passes  on  to  the  lake.  He  doubtless  ascended 
this  creek,  but  the  more  important  stream  entering  the  lake 
on  his  left  escaped  his  view,  as  it  would  that  of  ninety-nine 
persons  out  of  a  hundred.     If  he  had  ascended  this  affluent 


APPENDIX.  417 

of  Itasca,  he  would  at  once  have  discovered  that  Schoolcraft 
was  in  error,  that  Itasca  was  not  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi 
River,  and  his  map  wouM  have  been  differently  constructed. 
The  mouth  of  the  inlet  that  led  to  the  True  Source  was  doubt- 
less hidden  then,  as  now,  by  a  mass  of  lake  vegetation,  which 
so  concealed  it  from  view  that  in  1881  even  Chenowagesic  had 
difficulty  in  finding  it.  I  therefore  reasonably  conclude  that 
Nicollet,  like  his  predecessor,  was  deceived  in  assuming  Itasca 
to  be  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  the  logical  inference  being 
that  he  never  saw  the  beautiful  lake  to  the  south  of  it. 

In  1872,  Lake  Itasca  was  visited  by  Julius  Chambers.  Mr. 
Chambers,  during  his  summer  vacation,  was  not  an  explorer, 
but  a  tourist  on  pleasure  bent,  and  paddled  his  canoe  on  Lake 
Itasca  up  to  iis  southern  end.  He:e  he  discovered  the  mouth 
of  a  creek  wide  enough  to  admit  his  canoi*,  and,  ascending 
it,  came  to  a  pond  or  expansion  of  the  creek.  Believing  he  had 
entered  an  important  feeder  of  the  river's  source,  or  rather,  as 
he  terms  it  in  a  dispatch  to  the  New  York  Herald,  the  Source 
itself  of  "the  longest  river  in  the  world — a  small  lake,  scarcely 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  diameter,  in  the  midst  of  a  floating 
bog." 

Having  myself  visite  1  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  in 
the  summer  of  1891,  I  became  thoroughly  convinced,  after 
careful  personal  investigation,  that  the  Primal  Reservoir  of 
the  Great  River  is  a  body  of  water  lying  to  the  south  of  Lake 
Itasca,  nearly  two  miles  in  diameter,  and  that  there  is  not 
the  faintest  shadow  of  a  bog  or  morass  within  at  least  a 
mile  of  it.  Its  basin  is  secluded — an  elevated  ridge  dividing 
it  from  Itasca — and  the  surrounding  shores  are  high,  and 
crowned  with  a  dense  growth  of  timber.  Mr.  Chambers' 
description  of  his  boggy  pond  on  Nicollet  Creek  is  proof 
sufficient  to  me  that  he,  in  common  with  Schoolcraft  and 
Nicollet,  made  a  serious  mistake.  The  genesis  of  the  ' '  long- 
est river  in  the  world,"  or,  if  not  the  longest,  the  finest,  is 
not  in  a  "  floating  bog,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  diameter,"  but 
has  a  much  nobler  origin.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  Mr.  Chambers 
will  pay  another  visit  to  Lake  Itasca,  and  correct  his  error. 

The  Government  survey  of  1875  doubtless  saw  the  True 
Source  of  the  river,  but  did  little  beyond  measuring  its 
area.  This  was  a  portion  of  their  duly,  as  the  lake  exceeded 
27 


418  APPENDIX. 

forty  acres  in  extent.  They  did  not  trouble  themselves  about 
its  relation  to  Lake  Itasca  or  to  the  Mississippi,  nor  did  they 
give  much  attention  to  its  feeders,  for  had  they  done  so,  they 
would  not  have  shown  on  their  map  an  important  feeder  of 
Lake  Glazier  as  an  affluent  of  Lake  Itasca,  thus  depriving  the 
former  of  one  of  its  credentials  to  the  distinction  claimed  for 
it,  and  adding  to  the  importance  of  the  latter.  Had  they  pos- 
sessed the  instincts  of  geographers  or  explorers,  they  would 
have  discovered  and  reported  to  their  chief  at  Washington 
that  the  large  lake  above  and  beyond  Itasca  was  the  True  Head 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  thus  forestalled  the  explorer  of  1881, 
who  discovered  and  announced  this  important  geographical 
fact  to  the  country. 

Hopewell  Clarke,  a  professional  surveyor,  who  was  sent  out 
to  investigate  and  report  upon  Captain  Glazier's  explorations, 
confesses  that  the  Government  survey  of  1875  had  made  mis- 
takes, and  excuses  their  inaccuracies  in  these  words:  "  Errors 
will  creep  into  their  work;  but  when  we  take  into  consideration 
the  difficulties  they  had  to  contend  with,  it  is  not  to  be  won- 
dered at."  Had  the  members  of  this  survey  of  1875  conducted 
their  investigations  with  a  view  to  the  location  of  the  Source 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  had  they  traced  the  affluents  of  this 
lake  to  their  springs,  they  would  have  been  satisfied  that  it 
was  the  Source  of  the  Great  River,  and  not  simply  a  feeder 
of  Lake  Itasca;  that  its  size  and  position  entitled  it  to  more 
consideration  than  they  were  inclined  to  give  it. 

The  result  of  Captain  Glazier's  First  Expedition  was  the 
eiscovery  that  Lake  Itasca  could  not — with  any  regard  to 
geographical  accuracy — be  considered  the  Source  of  the 
Mississippi,  as  was  taught  in  all  geographies  and  maps  prior  to 
1881 — the  period  of  his  visit  and  discovery;  but  that  the  fine 
body  of  water  above  it,  the  Pokegama  of  the  Indians,  was 
unquestionably  the  Primal  Reservoir  and  Head  of  the 
river;  a  truth  now  generally  recognized  by  geographers, 
encyclopaedists,  instructors,  and  map  publishers,  and  contro- 
verted by  only  a  few  quibblers,  who  have  not  themselves 
visited  the  region,  and  hence  are  essentially  unqualified  to  pro- 
nounce judgment  in  the  matter. 

Schoolcraft  and  Nicollet  are  worthy  of  the  greatest  honor 
for  their  persevering  efforts  to  reach  the  Source,  and  if  they 


APPENDIX.  419 

failed  in  the  accomplishment  of  that  object,  it  is  no  more  than 
many  other  distinguished  explorers  have  done,  in  attempts  to 
find  the  springs  of  other  great  rivers.  All  knowledge  is  pro- 
gressive, and  geography,  in  common  with  history,  is  open  to 
correction  as  time  rolls  on.  The  beliefs  of  centuries  are  some 
times  proved  to  be  without  foundat'on,  and  are  cast  aside  for 
the  results  of  modern  research.  The  explorations  of  intrepid 
pioneers  and  travelers  are  yearly  adding  to  our  knowledge  of 
the  earth,  and  if  the  labors  of  one  intelligent  and  zealous 
American,  with  time  and  means  at  his  command,  have  resulted 
in  a  discovery  that  those  who  preceded  him  in  the  same  line 
of  investigation  were  in  error  in  their  conclusions,  shall  it 
be  said,  in  this  enlightened  day,  that  he  is  not  justified  in 
declaring  his  discovery  because  a  few  cavilers  affect  to  dis- 
ci edit  him  ? 


B. 

CRITICS  AND   CAVILERS. 

The  controversy  c  ncerning  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi 
has  been  confined  to  an  extremely  limited  circle.  Certain 
critics  and  cavilers,  more  or  less  given  to  raising  objections 
when  a  new  exposition  of  an  old  theory  is  advanced— 
especially  if  the  propounder  is  not  of  their  caste — have  con- 
troverted the  truth  of  Captain  Glazier's  account  of  his  dis- 
covery, and  challenged  him  to  produce  proof  of  his  positive 
assertions:  (1)  That  Lake  Itasca  possesses  no  rightful  claim  to 
be  considered  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi;  and  (2)  that  the 
True  Source  of  that  river  is  in  a  comparatively  large  lake 
immediately  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  and  above  it.  These  are 
the  points  in  dispute,  and  the  first  proposition  is,  of  course,  a 
corollary  of  the  second 

Captain  Glazier  has  icpeatedly  presented  his  proofs 
through  the  press,  and  has  answered  the  challenge  of  his 
opponents  by  inviting  them  to  accompany  him  to  the  Head- 
waters of  the  river  and  investigate  and  judge  for  themselves, 
volunteering  to  defray  half  the  expense  incurred.  This  offer 
they  have  not  accepted,  but  replied  by  sending  out  a  person, 
independently,  to  represent  them,  a  man  who,  before  setting 
forth  on  his  mission,  paraded  in  public  his  determination  to 
support  his  employers.  This  offensive  display  of  partisan- 
ship in  the  sacred  cause  of  science  passed  unreproved  by  the 
critics  of  Captain  Glazier,  but  was  not  unheeded  by  his 
friends.  The  party  referred  to  proceeded  on  his  mercenary 
errand,  and  has  since  published  a  report  which  for  subter- 
fuge, evasiveness,  and  moral  obliquity  has  seldom  been 
equaled.  It  was,  however,  iudorsed  and  published  with  the 
sanction  of  his  patrons.  But  the  words  of  the  report  were  no 
index  to  the  writer's  mind.  He  had  looked  upon  the  True 
Source  of  the  Mississippi  if  his  patrons  had  not,  and  could 
not  be  otherwise  than  mentally  assured  of  the  truth  and 

(420^ 


APPENDIX.  421 

scrupulous  correctness  of  the  Glazier  position.  He  returned 
to  his  employers — and  denied  it!  There  was  little  fear  of 
their  discovering  his  duplicity,  even  if  they  had  wished  to  do 
so.  The  spot  is  very  difficult  of  access,  as  I  have  shown.  He 
plausibly  pointed  to  other  lakes,  ponds,  and  streams,  and 
while  admitting  that  none  of  them  had  any  visible  connection 
with  Lake  Itasca  or  the  Mississippi,  suggested  that  probably 
the  connection  was  underground!  He  knew  it  was  the  wish 
of  those  who  had  been  instrumental  in  sending  him  to  the 
Headwaters  that  he  should  not  return  and  support  the  views 
of  Captain  Glazier,  which  views  they  had  previously,  in  their 
wisdom,  denounced  as  "fraudulent,"  and  their  propounder  a 
"charlatan."  They  were  apparently  confirmed  in  their  mis- 
taken belief  that  Lake  Itasca  was  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 
Not  so,  however,  the  press  and  the  public.  The  sentiment 
was  widely  expressed  that  Captain  Glazier  was  not  being 
fairly  treated,  and  the  people,  prompt  to  detect  and  denounce 
injustice,  made  their  views  known,  not  only  in  the  North- 
western press,  but  throughout  the  country.  I  will  lure  sub- 
join a  few  examples  of  these  views,  of  which  I  have  hundreds 
in  my  possession. 

A  correspondent  at  Worcester,  Massachusetts,  writes  to  a 
Saint  Paul  daily,  in  March,  1886: 

In  1881 ,  Captain  Willard  Glazier  brought  to  the  notice  of  the  people  of 
this  and  oth^r  countries  that  beyond  Itasca  lay  the  Source  of  the  Great 
River.  .  .  .  Let  the  men  stand  up  and  be  counted  who,  prior  to  1881, 
declared  that  the  lake  now  named  Lake  Glazier  was  the  source  of  the 
great  stream  flowing  through  the  nation's  heart.  Let  your  correspond- 
ent, "  Somebody  who  Knows,"  furnish  the  names  of  these  men.  .  .  . 
Is  Lake  Glazier  the  source  of  the  river?  That  is  the  question.  School- 
craft says,  ' '  Geographers  deem  that  branch  of  a  river  as  its  true  source 
which  originates  at  the  remotest  distance  from  its  mouth.11  Glazier 
says,  "  It  is  the  custom  of  geographers  to  fix  upon  the  remotest  water, 
and  a  lake  if  possible,  as  the  source  of  a  river.11  In  1881,  he  claimed  the 
lake  in  question  as  the  True  Source.  Let  the  proposition  lately  made  by 
him  [the  offer  to  defray  half  the  expense  of  an  authorized  expedition  to 
decide  the  question]  be  accepted  in  good  faith,  and  his  claim  stand  or 
fall  on  its  merits.  ...  As  long  ago  as  1858,  the  doubt  existed  as  to 
Itasca  being  the  True  Head.  ...  A  great  claim  is  made  by  Captain 
Glazier;  let  his  claim  be  met  in  a  spirit  of  fairness  on  the  part  of  all 
concerned;  let  the  verdict  be  true,  free  from  prejudice,  and  lasting. 

Fair  Play. 


422  APPENDIX. 

A  writer  in  the  Buffalo  Courier,  in  November,  1886,  took 
issue  with  that  journal  regarding  the  discovery  of  the  Missis- 
sippi's source: 

Editor  of  the  Courier: 

In  your  issue  of  September  19th  there  appears  a  short  article  dealing 
"blows  without  gloves"  at  Captain  Willard  Glazier's  "pretensions"  to 
having  discovered  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  in  a  lake  to  the 
south  of  Itasca.  The  article  appears  to  have  been  inspired  by  a  corre- 
spondent of  Science,  who  objected  to  Captain  Glazier's  claim  on  grounds 
which  I  propose  to  analyze.  The  correspondent  of  Science  begins  by 
asserting  that  Glazier  gave  his  own  name  to  the  lake  he  discovered, 
which  is  an  error,  originated,  probably,  by  some  caviler,  jealous  that  any 
man  should  presume  to  make  a  discovery  who  was  not  officially  author- 
ized to  do  so.  One  of  Captain  Glazier's  companions,  in  an  article  to  the 
Saint  Paul  Pioneer  Press,  after  describing  the  discovery  of  the  new  lake, 
writes: 

11  On  its  one  promontory  our  party  landed.  After  exploring  its  shores 
and  being  marshaled  in  line,  Captain  Glazier  made  a  few  remarks 
appropriate  to  the  discovery  of  the  True  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters, 
and  then  the  question  of  a  name  for  the  new  lake  arose.  This  being  left 
for  the  Captain's  companions  to  decide,  Barrett  Channing  Paine  of 
Indianapolis,  after  alluding  in  warm  terms  to  the  time,  money,  and 
energy  expended  by  Captain  Glaziar  in  the  expedition,  proposed  that  it 
be  named  Lake  Glazier  in  his  honor.  The  proposition  was  received 
with  applause  and  carried  by  acclamation." 

Thus,  we  see,  Captain  Glazier  did  not "  give  his  own  name  "  to  the  lake. 
He,  on  the  contrary,  we  are  told,  suggested  and  urged  that  it  should 
retain  its  Indian  appellation  of  Pokegama. 

There  is  nothing  to  be  found  in  Schoolcraft's  narrative  of  bis  expe- 
dition to  show  that  he  penetrated  south  of  Lake  Itasca.  He  speaks  of 
an  inlet  to  Itasca  leading  from  a  smaller  lake  to  the  south,  but  clearly 
did  not  visit  the  smaller  lake,  and  hence  did  not  "  discover  "  it.  Nor  was 
it  known  to  exist  by  Nicollet,  who  came  after  him.  The  latter  explorer 
says  that  there  are  five  creeks  flowing  into  Itasca.  Captain  Glazier  dis- 
covered six,  the  sixth  originating  in  a  lake  (not  a.  lakelet)  a  short  distance 
to  the  south  of  Itasca.  This  lake  was  not  known  to  Nicollet.  It  lies  nearly 
due  south  of  the  southwestern  arm  of  Itasca.  He  visited  the  others, 
which  are  mere  ponds  in  comparison,  but  missed  the  most  important  one, 
probably  owing  to  difficulty  of  access,  its  inlet  to  Lake  Itasca  being  com- 
pletely hidden  by  the  densest  lake  vegetation.  Such  an  inlet  would  prob- 
ably not  have  been  discovered  by  the  Glazier  party  but  for  the  informa- 
tion of  the  Indian  guide,  whose  hunting-ground  was  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood.  The  "Infant  Mississippi "  flows  from  this  lake,  through 
which  Captain  Glazier  and  his  companions  forced  their  way  under  the 
guidance  of  Chenowagesic.  The  lakelets,  or  ponds,  shown  on  Nicollet's 
map  have  nothing  to  do  wi.h  the  source  of  the  river;  and  the  map  itself, 
so  far  as  Lake  Itasca  and  its  region  are  concerned,  is  altogether  mislead- 


APPENDIX.  423 

ing.    Itasca  has  three  arms,  or  bays,  not  two,  as  shown  on  Nicollet's 
map.  An  Old  Geographer. 

George  F.  Cram  of  Chicago,  well  known  throughout  the 
country  as  a  leading  map  and  atlas  publisher,  writes,  under 
date  December  4,  1886: 

"  There  is  no  question  in  my  mind  but  that  the  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi is  not  in  Lake  Itasca,  as  we  have  hitherto  been  taught,  but  in  a 
lake  immediately  to  the  south  of  it.  The  question  of  the  discovery  of 
this  lake,  which  will  probably  prove  to  be  the  True  Source,  is  the  subject 
of  a  warm  contest  between  Captain  Glazier  and  some  school-book  pub- 
lishers who  seem  to  have  interests  inimical  to  his.  Whatever  name  may 
be  conferred  upon  this  lake  will  be  determined  after  these  gentlemen  have 
become  reconciled,  but  the  question  of  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  I 
think  may  be  considered  absolutely  settled,  and  Lake  Itasca  must  lose 
its  reputation  for  being  the  Head  of  that  important  stream." 

A  c  ^-respondent  at  Providence,  Rhode  Island,  wrote  to 
the  Boston  Herald  under  date  October,  1880,  ia  response  to  a 
criticism  by  Russell  Hinman  of  Cincinnati.  Mr.  Hinman  was 
at  the  time,  I  believe,  connected  with  an  educational  publish- 
ing house  in  that  city  in  the  capacity  of  geographer,  and,  in  his 
letter  to  the  Boston  Herald,  very  confidently  denied  that  the 
claim  of  Captain  Glazier  to  have  located  the  True  Source  of 
the  Mississippi  had  any  foundation  in  fact.  It  will  be  under- 
stood by  the  intelligent  reader  that  if  the  Glazier  discovery 
proved  to  be  correct,  it  would  necessitate  an  alteration  in  some 
of  the  geographical  publications  of  his  firm.  Hence,  possibly, 
the  denial,  which  also  occurred  in  a  similar  instance  in  New 
York: 

To  the  Editor  of  the  Boston  Herald: 

In  a  recent  issue  of  your  paper  appears  a  letter  signed  "  Russell 
Hinman,11  to  which  my  attention  has  only  just  been  drawn.  Mr.  Hinman 
writes  in  the  authoritative  style  of  an  explorer  who  has  a  personal 
knowledge  of  the  region  to  which  he  refei'S,  namely,  that  around  the 
Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi .  If,  however,  as  I  suspect,  your  corre- 
spondent is  simply  a  "  carpet  knight,11  and  gatherer!  his  information  from 
sources  open  to  all  of  us,  his  tone  of  authority  is,  I  think,  somewhat 
misplaced.  I  propose  to  meet  the  gentleman's  second-hand  informa- 
tion with  that  derived  from  direct  p3rsonal  knowledge  of  the  subject 
in  debate,  and  to  advance  only  that  which  I  know  to  be  fact. 

For  years  Lake  Itasca  has  been  regarded  both  by  geographers  and 
map  makers,  as  well  as  by  the  public  generally,  as  the  Source  of  one  of 
the  greatest  rivers  of  the  world— the  Mississippi.    .    .    .  ' 

No  injustice  is  done  to  the  memory  of  the  two  early  explorers  of  the 


424  APPENDIX. 

Northwest,  Schoolcraft  and  Nicollet,  in  the  statement  that,  notwithstand- 
ing their  many  valuable  additions  to  the  geographical  knowledge  of 
Northern  Minnesota,  their  explorations  did  not  extend  to  the  discovery 
of  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi .  Schoolcraft  believed  it  to  be  Lake 
Itasca,  and  Nicollet  confirmed  him  in  this  error.  Glazier,  in  July,  1881, 
started  for  this  lake,  and  learned,  upon  diligent  inquiry  at  the  Govern- 
ment agency  at  Leech  Lake,  that  the  dense  forests  that  surround  the 
Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters  had  never  been  traversed  by  white  men 
since  the  visit  of  Nicollet  in  1834,  or  even  by  Indians  at  any  time  except 
in  wintar,  when  lakes  and  rivers  were  frozen  up  and  the  whole  surface  of 
the  country  covered  with  a  mantle  of  snow.  He  also  learned  through  the 
guides  and  interpreters  who  accompanied  him  that  the  Indians  of  these 
primeval  forests  did  not  regard  Itasca  as  the  Source  of  the  river;  but, 
while  rejecting  it,  differed  among  themselves  as  to  what  lake  really  waf 
the  Fountain-head. 

Captain  Glazier  determined  to  thoroughly  examine  all  this  region 
and  to  locate  definitely  and  forever  its  True  Source.  In  accordance  with 
this  design,  he  pushed  on  toward  Lake  Itasca,  intending  to  make  it  a 
starting  point  for  further  exploration.  Reaching  this  point,  he  and  his 
little  party  camped  on  Schoolcraft  Island,  and,  after  a  night's  rest,  he 
directed  operations  toward  the  lakes  and  streams  of  the  surrounding 
country.  He  closely  examined  the  shores  of  Lake  Itasca  for  tributary 
streams,  finding  but  three  of  any  importance.  Of  these,  by  far  the 
largest  came  in  at  the  southern  end  of  the  lake,  at  a  point  where  it  is 
nearly  filled  with  bulrushes  and  other  thick  vegetable  growth. 

Taking  two  canoes,  Glazier  ascended  this  stream,  which,  though 
shallow,  is  rapid,  yet  so  narrow  in  places  that  to  jump  across  it  would  be 
an  easy  task .  Following  its  windings,  he  entered  what  appeared  to  be  a 
lakelet  filled  with  rushes.  Pushing  through  this,  however,  the  canoes 
finally  glided  out  upon  the  still  surface  of  a  beautiful  lake,  clear  as  crys- 
tal, with  pebbly  bottom,  and  shores  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  pine. 
This  lake  is  formed  irregularly  in  the  shape  of  a  heart,  having  but  one 
marked  promontory.  Captain  Glazier  measured  the  length  of  the 
lake,  and  found  it  to  be  over  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  its  width  a  little 
less.  He  found  that  this  lake  was  supplied  by  three  feeders,  which  rose 
in  sand  hills  a  few  miles  from  the  lake,  and,  after  a  thorough  examina 
tion,  became  convinced  that  this  beautiful  sheet  of  water  was  in  reality 
the  Source,  or  Primal  Reservoir,  of  the  mighty  river.  Without  much  dis- 
cussion, the  members  of  the  party  decided  unanimously  to  name  it  Lake 
Glazier,  in  his  honor.  This  is  a  brief  summary  of  the  proceedings  of 
the  Glazier  expedition,  so  far  as  concerns  the  discovery. 

Your  correspondent  states  that  the  existence  of  such  a  tributary  lake 
to  Lake  Itasca  has  been  known  for  more  than  half  a  century.  I  reply 
that  the  lake  indicated  on  Schoolcraft's  map,  published  in  1834,  and  on 
Nicollet's  map,  published  in  1838,  is  not  the  lake  referred  to  by  Glazier, 
or  it  would  have  been  at  once  designated  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 
If  its  existence  was  known,  why  was  it  not  so  designated?  The  lake  is 
not  quite  so  long  as  Itasca,  but  is  considerably  wider  and  much 
deeper,  and  the  stream  that  unites  it  with  the  latter  is  perennial,  and 


APPENDIX.  425 

Wide  enough  and  deep  enough  for  the  passage  of  canoes.  Surely,  if  this 
water  had  been  known  to  previous  explorers,  they  would  have  pro- 
nounced it,  as  Glazier  has  done,  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  Of  the 
three  feeders  to  the  Glazier  lake,  one  enters  it  from  the  west,  which  has 
its  source  in  a  lakelet  named ' '  Alice. "  This  feeder  is  shown  on  the  Land* 
office  map  as  entering  Lake  Itasca,  which  is  an  error.  It  enters  the 
Glazier  lake  at  its  northern  extremity,  and  of  this  Captain  Glazier  fully 
satisfied  himself.  Lake  Alice  lies  farther  to  the  south  than  Lake  Glazier, 
and  if  the  stream  issuing  from  it  debouched  in  Itasca,  it  would  be 
the  veritable  source  of  the  river.  But  it  is  simply  a  feeder  of  the  Glazier 
lake,  and  hence  is  entitled  to  less  consideration. 

It  is  claimed  for  Lake  Glazier  that  it  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Great 
River,  and  that  if  it  had  been  visited  by  the  two  eminent  explorers  who 
preceded  Willard  Glazier,  they  would  have  so  recognized  and  named  it. 
That  they  failed  to  do  so  is  conclusive  proof  that  they  never  saw  it. 

Explorer. 

A  leading  paper  of  Minneapolis  copied  the  following  letter 
addressed  to  a  Philadelphia  daily,  in  response  to  two  of  Cap- 
tain Glazier's  opponents,  in  which  the  writer  expounds  his 
views  upon  the  Glazier  claim,  and  criticises  the  critics: 

Editor  Philadelphia  Times: 

In  an  article  in  Science,  of  a  recent  date,  Henry  D.  Harrower  of  New 
York  expresses  himself  thus:  "  It  is  evident  that  Captain  Glazier  thinks 
he  was  the  first  white  man  to  visit  Elk  Lake.11 

Captain  Glazier  did  visit  the  lake  to  which  the  above  misnomer  is 
applied,  and  every  other  lake  and  pond  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Itasca;  and 
claims  to  have  been  the  first  to  locate  a  body  of  water  to  the  south  of 
Itasca,  and  tributary  to  the  latter,  which  had  not  been  recognized  by  any 
geographical  authority  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  prior  to  the 
summer  of  1881— the  date  of  his  visit.  This  lake  is  the  one  referred  to  by 
Barrett  Channing  Paine,  a  member  of  the  expedition,  in  the  extract 
given  by  Mr.  Harrower  in  Science.  .  .  .  Let  me  here  ask,  is  it  not 
somewhat  strange  that  many  of  the  most  prominent  geographers  a^d 
map  publishers  of  the  country,  who,  it  is  to  be  presumed,  have  access  to 
the  latest  and  most  reliable  authorities,  should  have  accepted  the  Glazier 
claim,  and  changed  their  maps  in  accordance  therewith,  if  they  had  not, 
after  due  investigation,  been  fully  satisfied  of  its  genuineness  and 
accuracy?  This  circumstance  alone,  in  the  opinion  of  many,  is  almost 
sufficient  to  establish  Captain  Glazier1s  title,  when  we  take  into 
consideration  the  fact  that  exactness  is  a  sine  qua  non  in  a  modern 
map.  ...  By  actual  measurement,  Lake  Glazier  was  found  to  be  over 
a  mile  and  a  half  long  and  nearly  as  wide,  with  an  average  depth  of  forty- 
five  feet,  which  is  deeper  than  any  part  of  Itasca. 

There  appears  to  be  on  the  part  of  Mr.  Harrower,  and  a  previous  cor- 
respondent of  Science,  Russell  Hinman  of  Cincinnati,  for  some  occult 
reason,  a  disposition  to  belittle  the  undertaking  of  the  Glazier  party. 


426  APPENDIX. 


It  was,  it  is  true,  simply  a  private  expedition  led  by  an  American  citizen 
whose  antecedents  as  a  cavalry  officer  throughout  the  war  for  the 
Union,  and  since  as  a  popular  writer,  should,  I  venture  to  think,  have 
some  weight  in  the  balance  where  mere  credibility  ii  the  question  at 
issue.  He  was  not  a  mere  theorist,  but  an  actual  explorer,  and,  as 
such,  his  testimony  is  as  worthy  of  credit  as  that  of  any  other  explorer, 
especially  when  confirmed  by  the  intelligent  gentlemen  who  accompanied 
him.  He  was  not  authorized  by  the  Government  to  proceed  to  the 
Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi ;  and  the  journey  was  certainly  not  made 
in  his  own  financial  interest,  as  it  cost  him  a  considerable  sum  of 
money  to  accomplish  it.  The  expedition  appears  to  have  been  organized 
solely  in  the  interest  of  correct  knowledge  upon  a  geographical  question 
of  some  importance.  He  traveled  over  a  country  which,  according  to 
the  best  authorities  he  had  access  to,  had  never  before  been  trodden  by 
white  men,  namely,  that  between  Leech  Lake  and  Lake  Itasca.  In  doing 
so,  he  discovered  a  chain  of  lakes  and  streams  that  was  not  known  to 
exist  by  any  authority  he  consulted.  These  he  named  after  distinguished 
American  soldiers  and  statesmen.  Ultimately,  he  made  his  way  to  a 
lake  a  short  distance  south  of  Itasca,  of  respectable  proportions,  which, 
from  all  tae  information  he  could  gather,  had  never  before  been  known 
or  recognized  as  the  Head  of  the  Great  River.  If  Messrs.  Harrower  and 
Hinman  had  traveled  over  the  same  ground,  they  would  be  better  quali- 
fied to  pass  judgment  upon  the  account  given  by  this  intrepid  explorer. 
Before  concluding,  I  may  be  permitted  to  state  that  according  to 
Schoolcraft  the  name  "Elk  Lake11  is  that  by  which  Lake  Itasca  was 
known  to  the  Indians,  and  is  still  known  to  them,  and,  according  to  the 
testimony  of  Captain  Glazier's  guides,  this  name  has  never  been  applied 
by  them  to  any  other  lake  in  the  vicinity.  The  lake  located  by  Captain 
Glazier  as  (he  True  Source  is  known  as  Pokegama  by  the  Chippewas, 
meaning  "The  Place  where  the  Waters  Gather11;  and  this  lake  is,  with- 
out the  shadow  of  a  doubt,  the  Primal  Reservoir  of  the  mighty 
Mississippi.  Investigator. 

la  January,  1887,  the  Minneapolis  Journd  published  the 
subjoined  letter  in  advocacy  of  Captain  Glazier's  claim: 

Editor  Minneapolis  Journal: 

The  liberal  spirit  in  which  you  have  treated  the  controversy  between 
Captain  Glazier  and  his  critics  on  the  subject  of  the  Source  of  the 
Mississippi,  leads  me  to  place  at  your  disposal  certain  facts  within  my 
knowledge,  in  connection  with  the  mooted  question. 

On  what  ground  do  his  numerous  supporters  lay  claim  that  Captain 
Glazier  discovered  the  True  Source  of  the  Great  River  that  divides  our 
continent?  At  the  period  of  hi  J  visit  to  Lake  Itasca  and  the  surrounding 
region,  July,  1881,  he  made  diligent  inquiry  upon  every  matter  that  bore 
upon  the  question— whether  Lake  Itasca  was  the  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. He  then  proceeded  to  Itasca,  via  Leech  Lake,  and  found  a  beauti- 
ful lake  to  the  south  of  it,  which,  after  a  careful  survey,  he  discovered 
to  be  the  undoubted  Source  of  the  mighty  river,  connected,  as  it  was, 


APPENDIX.  427 

by  a  permanent  stream  with  Lake  Itasca.   As  such  he  located  it,  and 
his  name  was  given  to  it  by  the  companions  of  his  expedition. 

Here  let  me  observe,  that  while  William  Morrison,  in  1804,  was  prob- 
ably the  first  white  man  who  saw  Lake  Itasca,  no  one  has  ever  credited 
him  with  the  discovery  of  th-i  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  In  fact,  he  knew 
nothing  about  its  relation  to  that  river.  He  was  not  an  explorer,  but  a 
fur  trader.  Had  he  known  that  th3  Mississippi  was  an  outlet  of  Itasca, 
he,  and  not  Schoolcraft,  would  have  been  recognized  all  these  years  as 
the  discoverer  of  that  lake.  On  precisely  the  same  ground,  others  may 
have  seen  the  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca  before  Captain  Glazier,  but  it 
is  fully  admitted  that  no  one  who  preceded  him  to  that  region  had 
assigned  it  its  true  character,  nor  properly  placed  its  feeders.  With  refer- 
ence to  the  latter  feature  of  the  subject  in  dispute,  it  has  hitherto  been 
erroneously  supposed  that  the  lakelet  to  the  southwest  of  Lake 
Glazier,  shown  as  Lake  Alice  on  Glazier's  large  map,  empties  into  the 
southern  extremity  of  Lake  Itasca,  instead  of  into  the  northwestern  part 
of  Lake  Glazier.  This  makes  all  the  difference  in  the  world,  and  proves 
that  the  Government  surveyors,  in  running  their  parallels,  failed  to  trace 
this  stream  to  its  outlet.  If  it  could  be  established  that  the  creek  from 
Lake  Alice  debouched  in  Lake  Itasca  instead  of  Lake  Glazier,  then  Cap- 
tain Glazier  and  his  friends  would  at  once  relinquish  his  claim  to  have 
located  the  Primal  Reservoir,  or  True  Source,  of  the  Mississippi.  But  his 
knowledge  of  this  feeder  is  based  upon  actual  investigation,  and  he 
knows  to  a  certainty  that  the  lake  beyond  and  above  Itasca  has  at  least 
three  feeders  instead  of  two,  as  shown  on  the  Land-office  map.  On  this 
ground  alone  he  is  entitled  to  the  credit,  not  only  of  establishing  the  fact 
of  the  existence  of  a  new,  and  hitherto  unrecognized,  Source  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, but  of  proving  conclusively  that  an  important  feeder  is  the  out- 
let of  a  lakelet  which  has  hitherto  been  misrepresented  on  the  Govern- 
ment maps  as  falling  into  Lake  Itasca.    .    .    . 

Geographer. 

Apropos  of  the  controversy  between  Captain  Glazier  and 
some  members  of  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society,  the  Saint 
Paul  Globe,  the  leading  Democratic  journal  of  Minnesota,  has 
the  following  paragraph : 

"Captain  Glazier  makes  a  fair  proposition  for  the  settlement  of  the 
controversy  between  himself  and  the  State  Historical  Society.  He  pro- 
poses a  commission  of  three  members,  one  to  be  selected  by  the 
Minnesota  Historical  Society,  one  by  himself,  and  the  third  by  the 
American  Geographical  Society,  to  investigate  the  matter  in  dispute  by 
making  a  tour  of  exploration  to  the  upper  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
settle  forever  the  quarrel  about  its  Source.  He  further  offers  to  defray 
one-half  of  all  the  expenses  of  the  expedition.1' 

The  Chicago  Times,  in  the  subjoined  notice  of  Captain 
Glazier's  last  work,  "  Down  the  Great  River,"  givesa  succinct 
but  interesting  account  of  the  discovery  of  the  True  Source, 


428  APPENDIX. 

in  which  the  writer  evinces   a  thorough    recognition    and 
appreciation  of  the  Captain's  labors: 

"A  most  interesting  portion  of  Captain  Glazier's  '  Down  the  Great 
River '  is  the  beginning,  where  the  author  gives  the  details  of  an  expedi- 
tion made  in  July,  1881,  by  himself,  with  five  companions,  when  he 
claims,  with  good  grounds,  to  have  fixed  the  actual  Source  of  the 
Great  River.  His  attention  was  called,  in  1876,  to  the  fact  that, 
though  everybody  knows  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  there  was  then  much 
uncertainty  about  its  Source.  In  1881,  he  found  time  to  organize  the 
expedition  named,  and  crossing  the  country  to  Itasca  embarked  in  his 
canoes,  and  pushed  through  that  lake  up  a  stream  flowing  into  it,  and 
came  upon  another  considerable  body  of  water,  fed  by  three  principal 
streams,  originating  in  springs  at  the  foot  of  a  range  of  hills  some  miles 
farther  on.  This  lake  he  fixed  upon  as  the  True  Source,  and  since  his 
published  accounts  most  of  the  geographers  and  map  makers  have 
modified  their  works  according  to  his  discoveries.  ...  He  claims 
to  have  been  the  first  to  discover  and  establish  the  fact  that  it  is  the 
highest  link  in  a  chain  in  which  Itasca  is  another;  or,  in  other  words,  the 
True  Head  of  the  river.  The  Indian  name  of  the  lake  is  Pokegama,  and 
this  Captain  Glazier  says  he  would  have  retained,  but  was  overruled  by 
the  other  members,  who  insisted  on  calling  it  Lake  Glazier.    .    .    ." 

On  February  9,  1887,  the  State  Historical  Society,  at  Saiiit 
Paul,  is  reported  to  have  met  and  passed  certain  resolutions, 
after  listening  to  t1  e  reading  of  a  paper  by  General  James  H. 
Baker  on  the  "  Source  of  the  Mississippi." 

It  may  be  safely  assumed  that  the  gallant  general  knew 
more  of  army  tactics  than  he  knew  personally  of  the  Source 
of  the  Great  River,  and  s.bout  as  much  of  the  latter  as  was 
possessed  by  his  otherwise  intelligent  audience,  who  were  said 
to  have  unanimously  (?)  passed  his  cut-and  dried  resolutions. 
It  is  not  known  that  General  Baker — at  the  date  of  the  meeting 
called  to  suppress  Captain  Glazier — had  ever  been  within  three 
hundred  miles  of  the  Source  of  the  river,  and  his  inflated  res- 
olutions had  doubtless,  in  the  absence  of  personal  knowledge 
of  his  subject,  been  based  up*  n  information  derived  from 
writers  whose  acquaintance  with  the  True  Source  was  on  a 
level  with  his  own  and  that  of  the  Minnesota  Historical 
Society  generally.  This  learned  society  innocently  believed 
at  the  t'me  that  no  body  of  water  existed  beyond  Lake  Itasca 
that  was  tributary  1o  it — ergo,  that  Itasca  was  the  Source  of 
the  Mississippi. 

The  tone  of  the  resolutions  submitted  to  the  meeting  is 
almost  beneath  criticism;  indeed,  they  bristle  with  low  scur- 


APPENDIX.  429 

rility.  They  were  of  a  character  to  convince  any  moderately 
informed  person,  first,  that  the  chairman  knew  nothing  of  the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  secondly,  that  for  some  unknown 
reason  he  was  animated  by  an  intense  dislike  of  Captain 
Glazier,  two  qualifications  that  presumably  fitted  him  for  the 
chairmanship  of  such  a  meeting.  The  dignity,  elegance  of 
diction,  and  suavity  of  these  resolutions  were  on  a  par  with  the 
treatment  Captain  Glazier  has  generally  met  with  from  a  few 
members  of  this  Historical  Society,  who  affect  to  think  and  act 
for  it  as  a  body. 

At  the  meeting  referred  to,  Captain  Glazier's  younger 
brother  was  present,  and  after  the  reading  of  the  resolutions 
respectfully  requested  to  be  heard.  He  naturally  objected  to 
the  offensive  epithets  which  had  been  heaped  upon  his  brother, 
but  was  peremptorily  called  to  order  by  Chairman  Baker,  and 
not  permitted  to  proceed.  A  "corporal's  guard"  of  the 
audience  passed  the  resolutions,  while  Ihe  feeling  of  the 
majority  was  in  marked  sympathy  with  young  Glazier,  who 
simply  attempted  to  defend  his  brother  frvm  the  foul 
aspersions  cast  upon  him  by  the  self-satisfied  clique  on  the 
platform.  An  influential  member  of  the  society,  from  whom 
one  would  have  expected  something  more  refin-  d  than  the 
language  of  a  cow-boy,  excitedly  calle.l  him  a  liar!  A  dis- 
graceful scene  ensued  in  the  hall  of  this  eminently  learned 
society,  whose  motto,  evidently,  is  not  audi  alteram  partem. 

The  first  of  the  resolutions  read  to  the  meeting  was  in  these 
words: 

"  We  hereby  express,  as  the  deliberate  judgment  of  this  society,  that 
the  assertions  and  assumptions  of  said  Glazier  are  baseless  and  false.'1'' 

By  this  "society"  must  be  understood  s  >me  three  or  four 
of  its  officious  members  who  pose  as  the  "  society,"  and  their 
"deliberate  judgment"  meant  simply  a  determination  on 
their  part  to  suppress  Captain  Glazier,  if  possible,  for  no 
better  reason  than  that  he  was  Lot  a  resident  of  Minnesota, 
but  of  New  York.  What  could  a  New  Yorker  know  about 
the  Source  of  the  Mississippi?  They  would  have  no  outsiders 
come  to  their  State  and  expose  their  ignorance  to  the  world 
by  pretending  to  have  discovered  that  the  Source  of  their  mag- 
nificent river  was  not  in  the  sacred  Itasca  of  the  renowned 


430  APPENDIX. 

Schoolcraft.    Right  or  wrong,  Glazier  must  be  silenced,  and 
restricted  from  promulgating  his  heresy.* 

"  The  assertions  and  assumptions  of  said  Glazier  are  baseless 
and  false,"  quoth  General  Baker  and  his  obsequious  satellites. 
This  clause  of  the  resolution,  couched  in  the  peculhr  language 
of  a  society  whose  supposed  aim  is  to  educate  and  refine  the 
people  of  the  State,  is,  however,  a  harmless  thunderbolt,  and 
may  be  answered  in  two  words,  "Prove  it!"  I  venture  to 
affirm  from  my  own  personal  knowledge  that  "  the  assertions 
and  assumptions  of  said  Glazier"  were  neither  "baseless" 
nor  "  false,"  but  as  well  founded  and  true  as  that  the  author 
of  these  resolutions  was  utterly  incompetent  to  pass  judgment 
upon  them  from  his  personal  ignorance  of  the  question  at 
issue. 

Resolution  No.  II: 

"  That  he  is  in  no  sense  a  discoverer  or  explorer." 

This  ungrammatical  blow  from  a  literary  society  of  such 
pretensions  is  amusing.  "  A  discoverer  or  a  explorer  "  might 
tumble  accidentally  from  the  pen  of  an  unfledged  rustic  raised 
on  the  prairies,  but  a  "learned"  society  should  at  least  know 
that  a  vowel  is  preceded  by  the  article  an.  We  excuse  the 
lapse,  however,  and  generously  attribute  it  to  their  haste  to 
inflict  another  telling  stroke  at  their  victim. 

Captain  Glazier's  explorations,  unlike  those  of  his  critics, 
have  extended  beyond  the  limits  of  Saint  Paul,  and  his  discov- 
ery of  the  True  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters  has  been  rec- 
ognized by  thousands  of  his  intelligent  countrymen,  including 
geographers,  college  faculties,  teachers,  encyclopaedists,  and 
map  publishers.  It  may  be  confidently  affirmed,  moreover, 
that  he  has  "explored"  more  of  the  American  continent  than 
any  fifty  members  of  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society,  inclu- 
sive of  the  pretentious  gentlemen  who  denounced  him  in  such 
unmeasured  terms.  His  work  on  the  "Mississippi"  alone 
affords  ample  evidence  of  his  exploratory  labors  and  researches 
in  outlying  seciions  of  the  country. 

*  From  conversations  I  have  since  had  with  prominent  residents  of 
Saint  Paul,  I  have  obtained  this  knowledge  of  the  "true  inwardness  " 
or  motive  of  the  opposition,  which,  as  I  have  already  said,  was,  and 
continues  to  be,  confined  to  a  very  narrow  circle  of  the  M.  H.  S. 


APPENDIX.  431 


Resolution  No.  Ill: 


"  That  the  lake  which  Captain  Glazier  asserts  is  the  True  Source  of 
the  Mississippi  River  is  not  such  in  reality,  but  that  the  real  source  of 
the  river  is  Lake  Itasca  and  its  tributaries.'''' 

Captain  Glazier  lias  never  claimed  that  the  real  Source  of 
the  river  was  not  in  a  "tributary,"  but  denies  most  emphat- 
ically that  it  is  in  Lake  Itasca.  The  "  tributary"  in  question 
is  a  fine  lake  above  Itasca,  separated  from  the  latter  by  a 
lofty  and  extended  ridge,  and  contributes  its  clear  waters 
through  a  perennial  stream  to  Lake  Itasca  and  thence  to  the 
Mississippi.  Lake  Itasca  has  no  better  title  to  be  considered 
the  Source  of  the  river  than  Lake  Bemidji,  except  that  the 
former  is  nearer  the  True  Source  than  the  latter.  The  lake 
above  Itasca,  over  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  nearly  as  wide,  and 
forty-five  feet  deep,  which  for  the  past  ten  years  has  been 
known  far  and  wide  as  Lake  Glazier,  is  claimed  as  the  True 
Head,  the  reservoir  of  its  five  tributary  streams,  and  hence 
named  Polcegama  by  the  Indians,  or  "The  Place  where  the 
Waters  Gather."  This  body  of  water,  unknown  until  1881  to 
the  Solons  of  the  Historical  Society,  is  claimed  by  Captain 
Glazier  and  his  host  of  supporters  as  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi,  in  defiance  of  the  perverse  and  senseless  contention 
of  a  few  cavilers. 

Resolution  No.  IV: 

"  That  we  feel  amazed  at  the  presumption  and  assurance  displayed 
by  Captain  Glazier  in  making  his  claim;  in  arrogantly  heralding  him- 
self to  the  world  as  a  discoverer;  in  deceiving  historical  societies;  in 
publishing  maps  on  tvhich  the  lake  in  question  is  made  to  appear  in  a 
wrong  position  and  four  times  its  proper  size,  and  in  persuading  pub- 
lishers to  place  his  name  on  their  maps.'''' 

Presumption,  t  ssurance,  arrogance,  and  deceit  are  here 
flippantly  cast  in  the  teeth  of  a  man  whose  only  offense  con- 
sisted in  a  modest  attempt  to  settle  a  long-disputed  geograph- 
ical question.  He  asked  no  subsidy  of  the  Government  or 
State,  but  undertook  a  difficult,  nay  arduous,  juurney  through 
a  veritable  terra  incognita,  entirely  at  his  own  cost  and  in  the 
interest  of  science.  May  I  respectfully  ask  these  gentlemen 
who  make  him  a  target  for  (heir  vituperative  shafts,  where  is 
the  presumption  involved  in  such  an  act?  Many  thousands 
think  it  was  highly  commendable  in  Glazier  to  put  himself  to 


432  APPENDIX. 

so  much  inconvenience  in  order  to  solve  a  problem  in  Ameri- 
can geography  which  would  have  solved  itself  in  the  course 
of  time,  when  frontiersmen  pushed  farther  forward  into  the 
primitive  wilderness  that  surrounds  the  Head  of  the  river. 
Was  it  presumption  in  Stanley  to  find  Livingstone?  Was  it 
presumption  in  Nicollet  to  follow  and  pass  Schoolcraft  in  his 
investigations?  Is  it  not  rather  presumption  and  assurance  for 
a  few  members  of  this  society  to  thrust  themselves  before  the 
public  and  condemn  and  denounce  in  such  unseemly  and 
opprobrious  terms  a  man  who  did  his  best  to  enlighten  them 
on  a  topic  concerning  which  they  were  at  the  time  in  dense 
ignorance?  The  "presumption  and  assurance  of  Captain 
Glazier"  have  borne  fruit.  Il  is  now  known  that  the  "great 
scientist  Qf  the  Cass  expedition"  was  in  error  when  he 
coiued  the  word  Itasca  and  conferred  it  upon  the  sheet  of 
water  which  he  doubtless  believed  was  the  Source  of  the 
Mississippi.  People  are  no  longer  in  ignorance  or  doubt  as  to 
what  is  the  True  Source;  that  it  lies  to  the  south  of  Itasca, 
in  a  lake  of  no  mean  pretensions,  which  in  point  of  beauty 
and  size  compares  most  favorably  with  its  neighbor,  and  is  in 
every  way  worthy  of  the  distinction  of  standing  at  the 
extreme  head  of  our  greatest  river.  The  Minnesota  Historical 
Society  may  possess  its  soul  in  peace;  Lake  Glazier  will  sur- 
vive and  be  known  as  such  generations  after  these  brilliant 
ciilics  have  been  gathered  to  their  fathers,  and  their  society 
has  become  more  enlightened  and  consequently  less  obstruct- 
ive and  unmannerly. 

The  remaining  portion  of  Resolution  No.  IV  is  simply 
exaggerated  nonsense,  destitute  of  a  grain  of  truth,  and  there- 
fore calls  only  for  denial.  Captain  Glazier  made  a  plain 
announcement  of  fact  to  the  public,  without  any  flourish  of 
trumpets.  He  attempted  to  deceive  no  historical  society,  but 
inviled  them  to  investigate  for  themselves.  And  here  I  will 
add  that  no  honest  investigator  could  arrive  at  any  other  con- 
clusion than  the  one  he  had  reached.  The  maps  he  has  pub- 
lished are  geographically  correct — far  more  so  than  those  of 
Schoolcraft,  Nicollet,  or  the  spurious  production  of  the  agent 
who  followed  Glazier,  and  imposed  his  alleged  map  of  the 
region  upon  the  public  under  the  aegis  of  his  employers  of  ihe 
Minnesota  Historical   Society.     The    "lake  in  question,"  as 


28 


(483) 


434  APPENDIX. 

delineated  on  the  Glazier  map,  is  of  correct  relative  size  to 
Lake  Itasca,  and  is  in  its  right  topographical  position  in 
reference  to  the  latter  lake.  Finally,  it  is  almost  needless  to 
say  that  he  has  no  such  influence  over  publishers  as  that 
ascribed  to  him,  and  if  his  name  has  found  a  place  on  their 
maps  it  has  been  of  their  own  volition  without  a  word  of 
"  persuasion  "  from  him.  The  folly  of  such  a  supposition  is 
worthy  of  its  originators. 

Resolution  No.  V: 

"  That  the  Legislature  be  requested  to  pass  the  Donnelly  bill,  which 
fixes  the  names  of  the  lakes  and  streams  composing  the  Itasca  source  of 
the  Mississippi  River.'1'' 

Resolution  No.  VI: 

"  That  we  call  upon  the  various  geographical,  historical,  and  other 
learned  societies  to  co-operate  with  us  in  repudiating  Glazier's  claim.'''' 

If  the  Minnesota  Legislature  would  pass  a  bill  removing 
Lake  Glazier  from  its  envied  position  at  the  Head  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, it  would  doubtless  satisfy  the  qualms  of  the  Minne- 
sota Historical  Society,  and  forever  silence  the  troublesome 
Glazier,  who  has  disturbed  their  learned  equanimity  to  such  a 
degree  as  to  render  an  appeal  to  the  Legislature  necessary. 
Nothing  short  of  this  could  have  any  other  effect  than  to 
make  the  quasi-learned  society  of  Saint  Paul  and  their  legisla 
tors  appear  supremely  ridiculous  in  the  eyes  of  all  intelligent 
and  fair-minded  Americans. 

The  "various  geographical,  historical,  and  other  learned 
societies "  called  upon  to  co-operate,  have,  as  I  am  informed, 
with  Vv.ry  few  exceptions,  shown  great  hesitation  in  compro- 
mising themselves  by  obeying  the  summons;  the  perverseness 
exhibi  ed  by  their  Northwestern  sister — in  her  dogged  opposi- 
tion to  Captain  Glazier,  and  unreasoning  adherence  to  Lake 
Itasca — having  given  rise  to  a  suspicion  that,  after  all,  Glazier 
may  be  right  and  the  Saint  Paul  egotists  wrong.  Anyhow,  they 
could  not  be  expected  to  "co-operate"  in  denouncing  the 
gentleman  as  a  "  fraud "  without  first  dispatching  an  explor- 
ing party  to  the  Headwaters  on  their  own  account,  and  hence 
their  hesitation  to  "cooperate."  The  Samt  Paul  wiseacres 
have  therefore  been  left  to  fight  their  battle  alone;  with  what 
result  we  shall  probably  learn  further  on. 


APPENDIX.  435 

The  St.  Paul  Times,  in  1887,  expressed  its  opinion  cf  the 
caustic  treatment  Captain  Glazier  was  receiving  from  certain 
members  of  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society.  The  editor 
remarks: 

"  The  Minnesota  State  Historical  Society  has  covered  itself  all  over 
with  glory,  and  Captain  Glazier  with  ignominy,  and  the  people  can  now 
take  a  rest  so  far  as  they  are  concerned  about  the  rival  claims  of  the 
discoverers  of  the  Source  of  the  great  Father  of  Waters.  General 
Baker  seems  to  have  considered  it  the  society's  duty  to  deal  in  wholesale 
denunciation  of  Captain  Glazier's  claims,  which  are  apparently  as  well 
founded  as  those  of  any  other  discoverer.  Schoolcraft  was  not  the  first 
to  see  Itasca  Lake.  William  Morrison,  a  pioneer  Minnesotian,  had  a 
cabin  on  the  island  in  Itasca  Lake  twenty-eight  years  before  School- 
craft visited  that  region.  Yet  no  one  has  denied  the  latter  the  right  to 
name  the  lake  and  island.  Why  not  accord  Glazier  a  similar  right  under 
precisely  similar  circumstances?  His  claims  are  supported  emphatically 
by  the  overwhelming  testimony  of  hundreds  of  the  most  distinguished 
and  competent  authorities  in  the  Northwest.  Glazier  did  undoubtedly 
expend  much  time  and  treasure  in  investigating,  not  only  the  Source  of 
the  Mississippi,  but  the  history  of  the  entire  river  from  its  Source  to  the 
Gulf.  He  could  have  no  object,  nor  could  he  gain  anything  by  garbling 
statements  when  it  was  as  easy  for  him  to  publish  the  truth.  As  a 
writer,  the  sale  of  whose  works  depended  permanenlly  on  the  accuracy 
of  their  information,  he  had  every  incentive  to  take  the  greatest  pains 
in  getting  at  the  facts.  The  leading  map  publishers  have  indorsed  his 
claims,  and  do  so  in  a  way  that  leaves  no  doubt  that  they  placed  implicit 
confidence  in  him  as  a  careful  and  trustworthy  geographer  and  historian. 
Rand,  McNally  &  Co.,  George  T.  Cram,  A.  S.  Barnes  &  Co.,  and  others 
of  the  leading  publishing  houses  who  have  a  heavy  personal  interest  in 
investigating  the  correctness  of  everything  they  publish,  tacitly 
acknowledge  Captain  Glazier's  claims  by  accepting  his  views,  and  repro- 
ducing them  in  their  books  and  maps.  The  press,  pulpit,  bar,  and 
Legislature  of  the  State  of  Minnesota  give  unqualified  assent,  through 
many  of  the.r  leading  members,  to  the  position  of  Captain  Glazier. 
And  the  Minnesota  State  Historical  Society  assumes  toward  these  gen- 
tlemen a  very  offensive  attitude  when  they  stigmatize,  by  a  string  of 
violent  and  abusive  resolutions,  his  natural  and  apparently  just  claims 
to  be  considered  the  first  who  published  his  belief  that  Lake  Glazier  is 
the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  The  society  has  acted  like  a  pack  of 
intellectual  hobble-de-hoys,  and  not  in  the  sedate,  cautious,  and  dignified 
fashion  we  naturally  expect  of  them.  Even  if  Glazier's  claims  were  as 
absurd  as  the  society  says  they  are,  there  is  no  excuse  for  turning  our 
Historical  Society  into  an  agency  for  the  dissemination  of  abusive  epithets. 
.  .  .  From  all  we  can  glean,  we  are  decidedly  of  opinion  that  the  rash 
conduct  of  a  few  members  has  paced  the  society  in  a  veiy  ridiculous 
position,  and  if  they  have  raised  a  laugh  against  themselves  they  have 
themselves  to  blame.  The  frantic  appeals  to  the  world  to  stand  by  the 
Minnesota  Historical  Society  in  this  matter,  as  they  are  embraced  in 


436  APPENDIX. 

their  resolutions,  are  too  absurd  for  anything.  It  must  mortify  any 
sensible  member  of  the  society  to  read  the  resolutions  published  in  the 
Globe  and  Pioneer  Press.  They  are  decidedly  Bdlingsgatish,  and  bear 
on  their  face  a  spirit  of  hostility  against  Captain  Glazier  which  could 
scarcely  be  evoked  by  a  mere  love  of  truth.  ...  On  the  whole,  we 
prefer  to  accept  Lake  Glazier  as  the  name  for  the  body  of  water  which 
he  asserts  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.    .    .    .    n 

The  Saint  Paul  Dispatch,  a  leading  and  widely  circulated 
daily  of  the  capital  of  Minnesota,  has  published,  since  1881, 
many  editorials  upon  this  subject.  I  reproduce  one  that 
appeared  in  the  issue  of  March  27,  1887: 

"A  question  has  been  raised  by  soma  members  of  our  Historical 
Society  as  to  whether  Lake  Itasca  or  Lake  Glazier  is  the  True  Source  of 
the  Mississippi.  Captain  Glazier  makes  a  claim  to  having  located  the  lake 
which  bears  his  name  as  the  Primal  Reservoir,  or  True  Head,  of  the 
river.  Upon  his  announcement  to  that  effect,  the  world  abandoned  its 
previous  belief  that  Itasca  was  the  source,  and  accepted  the  Glazier  lake 
as  the  true  fountain  of  the  mighty  stream.  Later  the  claim  was 
advanced  by  certain  members  of  our  Historical  Society  that  Glazier  was 
not  the  discoverer,  and  was  not  entitled  to  any  credit.  It  was  said  that 
others  had  been  there  prior  to  his  visit  and  had  '  discovered '  the  lake. 
But  it  was  not  claimed  that  any  one  had  ever  announced  it  as  the  Source 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  the  best  proof  of  this  is  found  in  the  assertion  of 
the  State  Historical  Society  that  it  is  not  the  Source.  It  would  seem, 
therefore,  that  before  Captain  Glazier  is  denounced  as  a 'fraud/  it 
would  be  well  to  settle  the  question  as  to  who  is  right  about  the  actual 
Source— he  or  the  Historical  Society.  If  Itasca  is  the  Source,  then  Gla- 
zier's 'discovery1  is  unimportant  and  not  worth  wasting  words  about. 
But  if  the  lake  fixed  upon  by  Glazier  is  the  Source,  then  undoubtedly  he 
is  entitled  to  great  credit  for  discovering  a  fact  of  which  even  our  His- 
torical Society  seems  to  be  still  ignorant.    .    .    ." 

A  correspondent  at  Buffalo  writes  to  a  Northern  New 
York  journal  in  April,  1887.  The  Syracuse  Standard 
had  criticised  the  Captain's  claim  to  discovery  at  the  Head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi  in  Ihe  scurrilous  style  of  the  Minne- 
sota Historical  Society,  and  the  New  York  paper  copied  the 
Standard  article,  adding  its  own  comments  in  opposition  to 
Glazie  's  announced  discovery.  The  Buffalo  correspondent 
replied  as  follows: 

"In  the  issue  of  March  23d  of  your  usually  well-informed  paper,  you 
have  given  prominent  insertion  to  an  article  copied  from  the  Syracuse 
Standard,  in  which  the  writer  commented  unfavorably  on  Captain  Wil- 
lard  Glazier's  claim.  As  an  old  acquaintance  of  the  Captain,  I  venture  to 
take  up  the  gauntlet  in  his  behalf;  and  first,  I  will  observe  that  we  have 


APPENDIX.  437 


here  an  illustration  of  the  truth  of  the  proverb,  A  prophet  is  not  with- 
out honor  save  in  his  own  country.'  While  honors  have  been  showered 
on  Willard  Glazier  by  the  press,  geographers,  and  scientists  throughout 
the  land,  in  his  '  own  country '  he  is  sneered  at  as  an  '  adventurer.1 
This,  however,  only  indirectly,  and  probably  from  inadvertence.  He  is 
remembered,  not  unkindly,  by  his  former  classmates  of  your  Wesleyan 
Seminary,  some  of  whom  have  recognized  him  as  conferring  honor  on 
their  alma  mater  by  his  stirring  military  career  and  popular  writings, 
and  are  his  good  friends  to  this  day. 

"The  Syracuse  Standard,  from  which  you  copied  the  scurrilous 
article,  is  inconsistent,  to  say  the  least.  In  1883,  it  gave  its  readers  a  very 
favorable  notice  of  Captain  Glazier's  book,  ■  Battles  for  the  Union,1  then 
just  published.  It  spoke  of  him  as  an  author  •  wielding  his  pen  with  sur- 
prising facility,1  and  his  descriptions  'abounding  with  life  and  interest1; 
adding,  •  the  work  is  full  of  the  momentous  incidents  of  a  struggle,  the 
memory  of  which  our  brave  soldiers  love  to  dwell  upon,1  etc. 

"  Glazier  was  a  soldier  under  Custer  and  Kilpatrick,  and  successfully 
took  part  in  the  battles  of  Cedar  Mountain,  Manassas,  Fredericksburg, 
Brandy  Station,  Gettysburg,  and  other  engagements,  and  was  eventually 
taken  prisoner  and  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  interior  of  Libby 
Prison.  He  finally  made  his  escape  and  reached  the  Federal  lines.  In 
his  first  book,  written  shortly  after  the  close  of  the  war,  we  get  many 
glimpses  of  life  in  that  well-known  prison,  and  numerous  pathetic  and 
humorous  incidents  that  fell  under  his  notice.  He  then  wrote  '  Three 
Years  in  the  Federal  Cavalry,1  in  defense  of  that  arm  of  the  service. 
Then  followed  'Battles  for  the  Union '  and  '  Heroes  of  Three  Wars,1  and 
later  a  work  on  the  '  Peculiarities  of  American  Cities,1  all  of  which  have 
won  glowing  eulogies  from  the  press  from  Maine  to  California.  Lastly, 
he  is  about  to  give  to  his  countrymen  a  work  on  '  The  Valley  of  the 
Mississippi,1  having  traversed  the  entire  length  of  the  Great  River  in  a 
canoe  for  purposes  of  observation— a  distance  of  over  3,000  miles,  and 
occupying  a  period  of  117  days.  Possessed  of  energy  and  daring,  Glazier, 
before  this,  had  crossed  the  continent  on  horseback  from  Boston  to  San 
Francisco,  thus  proving  himself  a  thorough  American  in  being  able  to  do 
anything  and  everything  equally  well; '  rushing,1  as  Shakespeare  observes, 
'  where  angels  feare.l  to  tread.1  His  *  superficial  works '  met  the  demand 
of  the  public  and  have  been  sold  by  hundreds  of  thousands.  This  fact 
is  usually  considered  a  test  of  the  excellence  rather  than  the  superficiality 
of  a  book. 

"  In  the  article  quoted  from  the  inconsistent  Syracuse  paper,  reference 
is  made  to  an  investigation  by  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society  of  Cap- 
tain Glazier's  claim  to  have  located  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi 
River.  The  investigation  here  referred  to  was  confined  to  one  individual, 
who  wrote  an  abusive  pamphlet  on  the  subject;  and  the  society,  com- 
posed for  the  most  part  of  farmers  and  persons  who  knew  nothing  of,  or 
had  ever  visited,  the  Headwaters  of  the  Great  River,  accepted  it.  The 
individual  in  question  took  exception  to  Captain  Glazier's  giving  names 
to  sundry  lakes  and  streams  he  discovered  between  Leech  Lake  and  Lake 
Itasca,  which  had  never  before  been  named  or  probably  ever  seen  by  white 


438  APPENDIX. 

men.  These  lakes  and  streams  he  named  after  his  cavalry  comrades,  and 
the  old  explorers,  De  Soto,  Marquette,  La  Salle,  Hennepin,  and  Joliet, 
and  their  successors,  Beltrami,  Schoolcraft,  and  Nicollet.  He  also  gave 
the  names  of  Garfield,  Sheridan,  Bayard,  Stoneman,  Pleasanton,  Gregg, 
Custer,  and  Kilpatrick  to  other  bodies  of  water;  and  in  three  cases  was 
guilty  of  the  serious  offense  of  giving  the  names  of  his  wife  and  daughter 
and  that  of  a  deceased  sister  to  some  small  lakes,  as  an  affectionate 
memento  of  his  visit.    This  is  the  worst  that  can  be  said  of  him. 

"  With  regard  to  the  location  of  the  Source  of  the  Great  River,  Captain 
Glazier  is  supported  by  a  host  of  competent  judges,  including  the  Gov- 
ernor of  Minnesota  and  hundreds  of  representative  men  of  the  State; 
while  the  fact  of  the  discovery  is  disputed  by  only  a  few  persons— 
scarcely  one  of  whom  has  ever  been  within  two  hundred  miles  of  the 
Source.  .  .  .  The  lake  located  by  Captain  Glazier  as  the  Primal  Reser- 
voir, or  True  Source,  of  the  Mississippi,  is  now  recognized  as  such  by 
almost  every  geographer  and  map  publisher  in  the  country,  and  by  many 
in  Europe.11 

The  opposition  to  Captain  Glazier  by  the  Minnesota  Histor- 
ical Society,  located  at  Saint  Paul,  partook  of  an  extremely  per- 
sonal, not  to  say  malignant  type,  about  the  beginning  of  the  year 
1887.  It  is  probably  difficult  to  sympathize  with  a  new  truth 
which  dispels  the  illusion  of  a  lifetime.  It  should  be  repeated, 
however,  that  this  opposition  was  confined  to  a  very  few  indi- 
viduals. These  gentlemen  were  reluctant  to  surrender  the 
honor  that  had  clung  for  fifty  years  to  the  Itasca  of  School- 
craft. They  were  under  the  protection  of  the  society,  and 
resolved,  by  virtue  of  their  position,  to  suppress  the  new  theory 
that  would  displace  their  idol;  and  perhaps  there  is  little 
wonder  that  prejudice  and  conservatism  were  averse  to  its 
adoption.  The  unheard-of  proposition  that  Lake  Itasca  was 
not  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  was  a  heresy  that  must  be  met, 
and  its  propounder  silenced.  The  subjoined  article  on  the 
subject  of  the  opposition  opportune'y  appeared  in  the  Saint 
Paul  Dispatch,  in  the  month  of  February,  1887,  and  doubtless 
expressed  the  views  of  many  citizens  besides  those  of  the 
writer: 

Editor  Saint  Paul  Dispatch: 

The  Minnesota  Historical  Society,  it  would  seem,  has  been  over-hasty 
in  its  efforts  to  influence  public  opinion  against  the  claim  of  Captain 
Glazier.  Their  report,  as  read  last  night,  was  a  document  hardly  calcu- 
lated to  inspire  confidence  in  thinking  people  regarding  the  erudition  of 
what  ought  to  be  an  institution  seeking  the  truth  of  history  and  settling 
mooted  geographical  questions.  This  may  have  arisen  from  the  peculiar 
characteristics  of  the  gentleman  who  was  chairman  of  the  committee  to 


APPENDIX.  439 


whom  was  delegated  the  work  of  preparing  the  report.  However,  the 
society  should  have  ignored  it,  but,  having  adopted  the  same,  have  laid 
themselves  open  to  the  responsibility  of  it,  if  not  to  the  ridicule  of  sister 
societies  throughout  the  world.  It  is  not  meet  nor  dignified  that  a  body 
assuming  to  be  "learned  *'  should  lumber  up  a  report  of  that  character— 
which  must  be  looked  to  as  an  authority  on  this  subject  in  futura  time— 
with  discourteous  language,  possibly  libelous,  and  which  seemed  taken 
entire  from  a  pamphlet  issued  from  a  rival  pub  ishing  house,  and 
adopted  by  the  committee.  It  would  seem,  if  the  committee  had  found, 
in  their  opinion,  no  just  foundation  for  Captain  Glazier's  claims,  that  our 
society  should  have  reported  in  language  becoming  the-society,  and  with 
some  consideration  due  that  gentleman.  .  .  .  They  have  greatly 
lowered  their  standard,  and  would  seem  to  aspire  to  be  considered  a  com- 
pany of  gossipy  old  women.  It  was  also  unfortunate  that  the  society 
refused  to  listen  to  Captain  Glazier's  brother,  who  had  accompanied  him 
to  the  Headwaters  of  the  Great  River,  and  desired  to  speak  before  them. 
Can  it  be  possible  that  a  society,  presumed  to  be  above  bias  or  prejudice, 
should  refuse  to  hear  both  sides,  preferring  to  make  an  ex  parte  report? 
Is  this  the  position  a  society  claiming  public  confidence  should  assume? 
...  A  society  seeking  the  truth  of  history  should  be  content  to  bear  a 
cross  in  its  mission,  or  surrender  to  more  patient  hands.  Captain  Glazier 
was  entitled  to  some  consideration  from  the  society  as  well  as  the  pam- 
phlet of  the  book  publisher  referred  to.  Fair  play  is  dear  to  every  Amer- 
ican heart.  If  he  was  not  entitled  to  any  consideration  in  the  opinion  of 
the  savants,  as  to  his  alleged  discovery  at  the  Head  of  the  Mississippi,  he 
was  at  least  entitled  to  a  patient  hearing  from  the  society  of  our  State, 
but  a  small  portion  of  the  great  country  for  which  he  fought  and  suf- 
fered a  long  and  weary  imprisonment.  It  would  seem  a  disgrace  to  our 
State  that  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society  has  assumed  the  motto, 
"  Strike,  and  then  hear  me.11  Is  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society  a  s„rt 
of  mutual  admiration  society,  making  up  reports  on  quite  important 
questions  from  pamphlets  of  rival  publishing  houses,  without  hearing 
both  sides;  and  giving  to  the  world  profound  conclusions  based  on 
ex  parte  information  and  their  own  prejudices?  Should  their  one-sided 
report  be  a  foreclosure  of  the  matter? 

A  Citizen  of  St.  Paul. 

The  Saint  Paul  Dispatch  has  believed  in  and  supported  the 
Glazier  side  of  the  controversy  from  its  inception;  and  it  will 
not  be  considered  surprising,  therefore,  that  I  find  myself 
more  than  once  quoting  from  its  pungent  and  ably  written 
articles.  In  reply  to  a  sheet  published  in  Sauk  Centre,  Minne- 
sota, whose  editor  took  the  side  of  the  Historical  Society,  and 
rejected  Captain  Glazier's  claim,  the  Dispatch  expressed  itself 
as  follows: 

"  We  don't  say  that  Itasca  is  or  is  not  the  Source  of  the  Miss'ssippi. 
The  Historical  Society  says  it  is;    Glazier  says  it  isn't,  and  describes 


440  APPENDIX. 

another  lake  which  he  claims  to  be  the  Source.  Between  the  energetic 
and  enterprising  Glazier  and  some  of  the  fossils  of  the  Historical  Society 
we  are  inclined,  however,  to  believe  in  Glazier;  but  before  expressing 
our  final  opinion  as  to  whether  he  is  right  or  wrong,  we  wane  another 
exploration  made.  If  the  Historical  Society  and  its  puny  allies,  like  the 
Sauk  Centre  Tribune,  are  so  firm  in  the  belief  that  Itasca  is  the  Source, 
they  should  accept  Glazier's  proposition  for  an  investigation.  By  not 
doing  so,  however,  they  lay  themselves  open  to  the  suspicion  that  they 
are  afraid  that  Glazier  will  prove  what  he  says,  and  thereby  leave  them 
open  to  the  charge  of  being  a  sublime  lot  of  ignoramuses.11 

The  following  article,  by  one  friendly  to  Captain  Glazier, 
is  taken  from  llie  Minneapolis  Evening  Journal  of  December, 
1883,  and  is  inserted  here  to  sbow  the  animus  of  some  of  the 
Captain's  "critic*  and  cavilers,"  who  e  perseverance  and  indus- 
try would  have  been  more  commendable  if  exerted  in  the 
cause  of  truth: 

Editor  Minneapolis  Journal: 

The  vexed  question  of  the  True  Source  of  the  Father  of 
Waters  has  again  come  to  the  front,  and  candidates  for  fame  or 
notoriety  are  propounding  their  theories,  backed  by  pretended  facts, 
in  the  vain  effort  to  dispossess  Captain  Willard  Glazier  of  the  honor 
conferred  upon  him  by  public  opinion  in  1881;  in  which  year,  as  you  are 
aware,  he  published  to  the  world  the  results  of  his  journey  to  the  Head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi.  A  paragraph  relating  to  the  question  of  the 
True  Source  of  the  Great  River  has  lately  appeared  in  some  papers, 
dated  St.  Paul,  December  1st,  drawing  attention  to  what  the  paragrapher 
is  pleased  to  denominate,  "An  instructive  and  valuable  article,  with  a 
carefully  drawn  and  accurate  map,  contributed  to  the  Pioneer  Press." 
I  would  ask  you  to  kindly  permit  me  a  few  words  on  this  :  ubject,  which 
may  be  considered  of  interest  to  some  of  your  readers.  Captain  Glazier 
claims  to  have  located  the  Fountain-head  of  the  Mississippi,  and  the 
geographers,  educational  publishers,  and  map  makers  of  the  country 
recognize  his  claim,  while  hundreds  of  the  most  prominent  men  of 
Minnesota,  and  elsewhere,  have  borne  written  testimony  to  the  truth  of 
his  published  statements.  Having  been  identified  with  the  Glazier  expe- 
dition to  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  I  unhesitatingly  assert,  despite 
a  thousand  cavilers  like  the  correspondent  of  the  Pioneer  Press,  that 
no  other  water  exists  that  can,  with  any  show  of  reason  or  plausibility, 
be  called  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  but  the  body  of  water  which  now 
bears  the  name  of  Lake  Glazier.  The  "carefully  drawn  and  accurate 
map,11  to  which  allusion  is  made  in  the  paragraph  referred  to,  is  a  mean- 
ingless jumble,  utterly  beyond  comprehension,  except  in  that  it  confirms 
the  Glazier  account  by  placing  its  delineator's  alleged  source  in  a  relative 
position  to  Lake  Glazier  that,  in  itself,  refutes  the  theory  of  the  pond 
being  the  Soui'ce  of  the  river.  The  article  in  the  Pioneer  Press  is 
evasive,  and  shows  the  animus  of  the  writer,  whose  aim  is  clearly  a  desire 
to  propagate  an  untruth,  and  by  so  doing  deprive  a  worthy  man  of  the 


APPENDIX,  441 


credit  accorded  him  by  his  fellow-ceuntrymen.  Captain  Glazier  may  not 
have  been  the  first  to  visit  the  lake  to  the  south  of,  and  above,  Itasca, 
but  was  admittedly  the  first  to  locate  it  definitely,  and  establish  its 
geographical  importance  in  its  relation  to  the  Mississippi,  and  for  this 
reason  is  entitled  to  the  same  consideration  that  was  accorded  to  his 
predecessor,  Schoolcraft,  -who  claimed  the  credit  of  having  "  discovered  " 
Lake  Itasca,  which  he  probably  knew  had  previously  been  visited  by 
William  Morrison,  the  fur  trader,  in  1804.  Parties  who  have  visited  the 
region  since  1881  are  very  confused  and  unsatisfactory  in  their  reports, 
no  two  of  them  agreeing  as  to  the  Primal  Reservoir;  but  they  make  one 
thing  clear,  and  that  is:  That  the  large  heart-shaped  lake  to  the  south 
of  Itasca— wider  and  deeper  than  the  latter— is  the  only  body  of  water 
worthy  of  recognition  as  the  Fountain-head  of  the  Great  River;  all  the 
other  ponds  and  lakelets  referred  to  by  them  being  little  more  than 
mud-puddles  and  bogs,  with  no  outlets,  and  altogether  undeserving  of 
the  slightest  consideration.  The  "true  source"  of  the  writer  to  the 
Pioneer  Press  is  one  of  these  frog-ponds,  and  his  so-called  "accurate 
map11  is  accurate  only  in  this,  that  it  places  Lake  Glazier  where  nature 
placed  it,  namely,  at  the  Head  of  the  Mississippi. 

Veritas  Caput. 

The  Worcester  Spy  published  in  December,  1888,  the  fol- 
lowing letter  from  an  Eastern  correspondent,  who  appears  to 
have  taken  an  interest  in  the  question  of  the  True  Source  of 
the  Mississippi: 

Editor  Worcester  Spy: 

In  an  editorial  in  the  Spy  of  last  week,  something  is  said  of  "Lake 
Glazier,11  and  also  of  the  finding  of  another  lake  which,  it  is  claimed, 
supersedes  the  claim  of  Captain  Glazier  in  1881  in  regard  to  the  True 
Source  of  the  Mississippi.  A  Mr.  Brower,  in  the  St.  Paul  Pioneer  Press, 
it  appears,  is  the  champion  of  this  latest  source.  In  his  article  in  the 
Press  he  claims  that  an  insignificant  lake,  or  pond,  west  of  Lake  Glazier, 
is  the  true  source.  In  this  statement,  his  map,  also  published,  contra- 
dicts him,  as  in  the  map  it  is  shown  that  his  "  true  source 11  is  considerably 
farther  north  than  Lake  Glazier,  and  hence  can  not  be  the  fountain- 
head  of  the  Great  River.  This  is  not  the  first  time  some  of  these  small 
ponds  have  been  taken  to  be  the  source  of  the  river.  These  ponds  were 
not  unknown  to  Captain  Glazier  at  the  time  he  made  his  exploration, 
and  put  forth  his  claim.  All  the  lakes,  ponds,  and  feeders  in  that  region 
were  visited,  and  the  result  was  that  the  beautiful  lake  called  by  the 
Indians  Pokegama  was  selected.  In  regard  to  this,  Captain  Glazier  says, 
"I  simply  claim  to  have  established  the  fact  that  there  is  a  fine  lake 
above  and  beyond  Itasca,  wider  and  deeper  than  that  lake,  with  wood- 
land shores,  with  three  constantly  flowing  streams  for  its  feeders,  and 
in  every  way  worthy  of  the  position  it  occupies  as  the  Primal  Reservoir, 
or  the  True  Source,  of  the  Father  of  Waters.1' 

No  other  lake  in  the  region  beyond  Itacca  can  compare  in  any  sense 
with  the  above-mentioned  lake.     This  fact  is  known  and  admitted  by 


442  APPENDIX. 

the  Indians  born  and  reared  in  that  locality,  as  I  have  it  from  them. 
General  Baker's  attempt  to  crush  out  the  claim  of  Captain  Glazier  was  a 
failure.  Mr.  Brower  and  his  later  claim  can  not  stand  before  the  facts 
in  regard  to  :  he  merits  of  Lake  Glazier  as  the  True  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. 

An  Early  Pioneer  of  Minnesota. 

In  January,  18S9,  an  effort  was  made  by  a  certain  educa- 
tional publishing  house  in  New  York  to  discredit  Captain 
Glazier  with  the  public  by  denying  his  just  claim  to  have  dis- 
covered and  located  the  source  of  the  Mississippi.  In  reply,  the 
following  letter  appeared  in  the  New  England  Home  Journal, 
from  the  pen  of  a  gentleman  well  known  in  that  section  as  a 
wri  er  on  history  and  various  branches  of  science,  who  is  also 
a  member  of  several  learned  societies  in  this  country  and 
Europe: 

Editor  Home  Journal: 

A  feeble  attempt  has  lately  been  made  to  prove  that  the  claim  of 
Captain  Willard  Glazier  to  have  discovered  the  true  source  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, rests  upon  no  other  foundation  than  that  of  "  literary  piracy  and 
fraud."1  If  this  were  true,  concerned  with  him  in  this  attempt  to  foist 
upon  the  public  this  fraudulent  claim,  we  find  a  long  list  of  hitherto 
reputable  names  of  men  who  fill  high  positions  in  the  civil  and  educa- 
tional world.  Prominent  among  the  number  in  Minnesota  are  the  Gov- 
ernor, two  ex-Governors,  five  Mayors,  six  editors,  and  six  superintendents 
of  schools.  In  the  country  at  large,  eighteen  educational  publishers, 
fourteen  map  publishers,  together  with  the  indorsement  of  four  colleges 
and  several  leading  institutions  of  learning.  His  claim  also  receives  the 
sanction  of  several  educators  and  map  publishers  in  other  countries. 
The  above  are  only  a  few  of  the  indorsements  received  by  the  Captain, 
yet  we  are  told  that  his  claim  is  all  moonshine;  that  they  who  have  saner 
tioned  all  this,  know  not  what  they  are  talking  about! 

C. 

A  leading  Saint  Paul  daily,  of  March  4,  18S9,  treats  in  an 
editorial  of  a  certain  phase  of  the  opposition  to  Captain 
Glazier.  Persons  residing  in  Faint  Paul,  hearing  of  the  pro- 
ceedings of  the  Historical  Society,  or  rather  of  a  few  of  its 
officious  members,  denounced  the  latter  as  most  unfair  to  the 
Captain,  and  unbecoming  the  society.  Knowing  nothing  of 
the  locality  of  the  Headwaters  from  personal  inspection,  their 
attempts  to  impose  their  views  upon  the  public  could  be 
characterized  as  nothing  less  than  rash  and  presumptuous,  if 
not  worse : 

" .  .  .  .  The  State  Historical  Society  and  its  estimable  secretary 
appear  to  have  reached  a  stage  of  excitement,  in  the  consideration  of 


APPENDIX.  443 

Captain  Glazier's  claims,  which  far  exceeds  that  of  any  other  individual 
or  interest  concerned.  Two  years  ago  the  society  passed  resolutions 
denouncing  Captain  Glazier  as  an  '  adventm'er,1  and  of  course  denying  to 
him  the  credit  of  discovering  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
thereafter  went  to  the  Legislature,  virtually  asking  that  its  resolutions  be 
spread  out  on  the  statute  books  of  the  State  in  the  form  of  a  legal 
enactment.  They  selected,  strangely  enough,  as  the  instrument  of  the 
undertaking,  Ignatius  Donnelly,  who,  as  a  discoverer,  historian,  and 
literary  oracle,  would,  we  fear,  run  serious  risk  of  faring  quite  as  ba:lly 
as  Glazier  at  the  hands  of  that  erudite  establishment,  should  the  occa- 
sion d  )mand  an  expression  of  its  opinion  regarding  him.  They  failed, 
however,  in  the  undertaking,  and  now,  two  years  later,  propose  to  repeat 
their  efforts. 

"  We  do  not  assume  the  championship  of  Captain  Glazier.  That  is  not 
at  all  necessary.  We  do  not  pretend  to  say  whether  the  lake  which  now 
appears  on  the  State  map  as  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River 
should  or  should  not  be  called  Lake  Glazier.  But  we  would  like  to  know 
how  the  State  Historical  Society,  or  any  other  body,  expects  to  determine 
the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  or  the  true  discoverer  of  that  Source, 
by  the  passage  of  resolutions  or  the  enactment  of  legislation.  The 
students  of  this  question,  either  now  or  hereafter,  can  not  be  expected 
to  care  a  rap  what  the  State  Legislature  thought,  or  what  the  Historical 
Society  made  its  members  believe  it  thought,  on  the  subject.  This  kind 
of  legislation  is  about  on  a  par  with  certain  mediaeval  practices  which 
involved  the  barbarous  sacrifice  of  human  life  in  order  to  establish  the 
correctness  of  their  opinions  as  to  the  hereafter.11 

In  a  review  of  Captain  Glazier's  notable  work  on  the 
"Mississippi,"  in  which  the  author  describes  in  detail  his 
journey  to  the  Headwaters,  and  discovery  of  the  Source  of  the 
Great  River,  the  Popular  Science  Monthly  for  April,  1889, 
refers  to  his  claim  in  the  following  words: 

"In  this  book,  Captain  Glazier  relates  the  story  in  full,  of  his  journey 
in  1881,  by  the  aid  of  an  Indian  guide,  '  across  country,1  from  Brainerd, 
Minnesota,  to  Lake  Glazier,  south  of  Lake  Itasca,  and  his  determination 
of  it  as  the  real  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River.  The  journey  was  made 
first  to  Leech  Lake,  which  is  on  one  of  the  main  affluents  of  the  Upper 
Missi  sippi — and  is  the  seat  of  an  Indian  agency— and  thence  up  a  chain 
of  lakes  and  portages,  through  a  territory  of  which  very  little,  if  any- 
thing, was  definitely  known,  to  Itasca  Lake;  around  Itas?a  Lake  to  a 
stream  flowing  into  it;  up  that  stream  to  '  Lake  Glazier,1  and  around 
that  lake  until  the  author  and  explorer  was  satisfied  that  nothing 
important  was  likely  to  be  found  above  it.  .  .  .  As  determined  by 
the  author,  Lake  Glazier  is  1,585  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  and 
is  3, 184  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  .  .  .  Captain  Glazier's  claims 
to  be  the  discoverer  of  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi'  have  been 
disputed  by  some  persons  who  have  affirmed  that  the  lake  which  has 


444  APPENDIX. 

been  named  after  him  was  not  unknown  to  Schoolcraft,  and  that  it  has 
been  visited  by  hunters.  The  Captain  replies  to  these  objectors  by 
affirming  that  no  matter  how  many  persons  may  have  known  of  the 
existence  of  that  body  of  water,  he  was  the  first  to  explore  it,  to  gauge 
its  dimensions,  and  to  determine  that  it  is  ths  Ultimate  Source  of  the 
Mississippi;  and  he  cites  a  large  number  of  declarations  of  geographers, 
and  of  men  versed  in  the  history,  geography,  and  traditions  of  Minne- 
sota, which  support  his  claims  in  this  shape.  He  represents  Glazier 
Lake,  though  its  superficial  area  is  less,  as  being  wider  and  deeper,  and 
containing  more  water  than  Itasca  Lake.  The  story  of  the  explorer's 
journey  is  very  pleasantly  narrated.    .    .    .    M 

The  Philadelphia  Evening  Telegraph,  a  journal  read  largely 
by  scholars  and  scientists,  gives  its  sanction  to  the  Glazier 
discovery  of  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  in  the  follow- 
ing extract  from  an  editorial: 

" .  .  .  .  It  appears  quite  clear  that  Lake  Itasca  never  possessed 
any  title  to  the  honor  conferred  upon  it  by  Schoolcraft  in  1832  of  giving 
birth  to  our  magnificent  river.  One  reason  alone  is  given  to  account  for 
our  ignorance  of  its  True  Source,  namely,  it  was  outside  the  usual 
track  of  the  fur  traders,  and  in  a  region  scarcely  ever  visited  by  Indians 
or  white  men.  Schoolcraft  had  pronounced  Itasca  to  be  the  source, 
and  n  >  one  up  to  the  date  of  Captain  Glazier's  explorations  felt 
sufficiently  interested  in  the  matter  to  investigate  or  dispute  its 
claim.    .    .    . 

"It  was  long  suspected  that  the  Mississippi  had  its  Fountain-head 
higher  up  than  Lake  Itasca,  and  in  July,  1881,  an  expedition  led  by  Cap- 
tain Willard  Glazier  discovered  a  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca— hitherto 
unrecognized  in  our  geographies— a  mile  and  a  half  in  diameter,  and 
falling  into  the  latter  by  a  permanent  stream — the  Infant  Mississippi. 
Beyond  this  there  appears  to  be  no  water  connected  with  the  river, 
and  hence  Lake  Glazier  is  now  the  recognized  source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi.   ..." 

If  anj'  fair  minded  and  unprejudiced  critic  of  the  Glazier 
claim  reads  the  foregoing  extracts,  let  it  be  understood  that 
these  shafts  of  the  exponents  of  public  opinion  are  not  aimed 
at  him,  but  at  those  only  who  have  assumed  the  prerogative 
of  censorship,  for  the  reason  that  by  some  accident  Ihey  find 
themselves  in  the  position  of  leadership  in  a  society  claiming 
to  be  "  learned." 

The  discovery  of  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  was 
made  over  ten  years  ago,  and  published  to  the  world,  in  a 
plainly  written  narrative,  by  the  discoverer,  a  man  entitled  to 
be  believed,  and  to  be  treated  with  some  consideration.  The 
discovery  is  now  virtually  ft  cognized  and  accepted  by  every 


APPENDIX.  445 

geographer  and  scientist  in  the  country  who  has  given  atten- 
tion to  the  subject;  but  continues  to  be  denied  by  a  few 
pseudo-critics,  associated  with  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society 
at  Saint  Paul,  who  persistently  s'ultify  themselves,  and 
endeavor  to  misl<  ad  the  public  by  solemnly  asserting  that 
Lake  Itasca  is  the  Source,  in  defiance  of  all  evidence  to  the 
contrary;  and  this  for  no  better  reason  than  because  School- 
craft, sixty  years  ago,  so  believed  and  asserted! 

It  musr,  not  be  forgotten  by  the  reader,  in  es  {mating  the 
value  of  this  opposition,  that  these  same  cavilers  have  never 
personally  risked  a  visit  t  >  the  source  of  the  river,  and  hence 
their  egregious  assumption  of  authority  in  determining  an 
important  question  in  geography  has,  to  say  the  least,  placed 
them  in  a  very  equivocal  light  before  the  country;  for  evidence 
of  which  I  have  simply  to  refer  the  reader  to  some  of  the  pre- 
ceding extracts. 


CORRESPONDENCE   RELATING   TO   FIRST   EXPEDITION. 

The  intelligent  reader  of  this  Appendix,  it  is  hoped,  will 
feel  in  some  degree  interested  in  what  I  respectfully  submit  for 
his  consideration,  in  explanation  and  justification  of  the  facts 
involved  in  this  discussion.  From  a  large  mass  of  correspond- 
ence now  lying  before  me,  I  have  selected  a  few  let.ers  bear- 
ing upon  these  facts,  which  go  to  show  how  wide-spread  is 
the  popular  belief  that  the  position  taken  by  Captain  Glazier 
is  unassailable.  It  is  founded  upon  the  personal  observation 
and  most  painstaking  investigation  of  a  man  of  no  ordinary 
intelligence,  who  has  staked  his  reputation  as  a  well-known 
author  on  the  positive  assertion  that  Lake  Itasca  possesses  no 
claim  whatever  to  be  considered  the  Source  of  our  greatest  river, 
a  truth  so  palpable  and  patent  to  the  sense  of  sight  as  to  be 
beyond  the  sphere  of  doubt  to  any  rational  mind. 

The  correspondence  here  reproduced  will  show  that,  in  the 
belief  of  the  writers,  Glazier  located  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi  River  in  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  beyond  Itasca, 
and  emptying  into  the  latter  through  a  permanent  outlet;  fur- 
ther, that  despite  the  unreasoning  opposition  of  a  few  critics,  the 
press  and  the  public  have  already  yielded  him  the  credit  of 
setting  at  rest  a  long-discussed  geographical  question. 

Barrett  Channing  Paine  of  Indianapolis,  formerly  a 
reporter  on  the  staff  of  the  Saint  Paul  Pioneer  Press,  addressed 
the  following  letter  to  that  journal,  under  date  August  four- 
teenth, 1681.  Mr.  Paine  accompanied  Captain  Glazier  to  the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi  on  his  First  Expedition,  and  descended 
with  him,  in  his  canoe,  throughout  the  entire  length  of  the  river 
to  the  Gulf.  "While  at  the  Headwaters,  and  during  the  descent 
of  the  river,  Mr.  Paine  addressed  long  accounts  of  the  journey 
and  discovery  to  the  Pioneer  Press,  as  well  as  to  many  of 
the  leading  papers  of  cities  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi. 
In  the  whole  of  this  correspondence,  he  expressed  his  firm 

(446; 


APPENDIX.  447 

personal  belief  in  the  truth  of  Captain  Glazier's  contention 
that  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  is  not  in  Lake  Itasca,  but  in 
the  fine  lake  immediately  beyond  it. 

After  giving  a  detailed  account  of  the  journey  from  the 
shore  of  Itasca  Lake,  he  proceeds: 

'■'■Editor  Saint  Paul  Pioneer  Press: 

.  .  .  '-At  last  our  longing  eyes  rested  upon  the  waters  of  Itasca. 
Soon  after,  we  were  floating  on  its  placid  bosom,  and  after  a  pull  of  about 
two  miles  reached  Schoolcraft  Island.  This  island  is  about  three  acres 
in  extent,  and  so  covered  with  underbrush  that  we  could  wi:h  dlfficulty 
clear  a  place  for  a  camp.  The  island  has  but  few  trees  of  any  size,  the 
mo  t  prominent  of  which  is  the  pine,  and  on  one  of  these  we  blazed  our 
names  and  the  date  of  our  arrival.  Lake  Itasca  is  not  at  all  the  sort  of 
lake  I  had  expected  to  see,  being  a  rather  large  and  fine  body  of  water, 
with  an  extreme  length  of  about  five  miles  and  an  average  breadth  of 
nearly  a  mile.  It  has  three  arms  of  nearly  equal  size,  and  the  island  on 
which  we  camped  is  situated  near  the  point  where  they  come  together. 
The  lake  was  fixed  upon  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  by  Schoolcraft 
in  1832,  and  until  now  its  title  has  been  undisputed.  Inquiries  instituted 
by  Captain  Glazier,  however,  developed  the  fact  that  though  few  among 
the  Indians  and  trappers  who  had  visited  that  section  believed  Itasca  to 
be  the  Source,  there  was  some  controversy  as  to  whether  another  lake 
situated  beyond  Itasca,  and  pouring  its  waters  into  it,  had  not  the  strong- 
est clai:n  to  that  distinction.  We  were  fortunate  in  having  among  our 
guides  an  Indian,  named  Chenowagesic,  who  had  hunted  and  trapped  for 
years  on  all  the  surrounding  lakes,  and  had  even  for  a  number  of  years 
had  his  wigwam  on  Schoolcraft  Island,  and  planted  corn  on  that  historic 
spot.  He  stated  that  a  lake  beyond  Itasca  had  always  been  considered  by 
him,  and  other  Indians  thoroughly  familiar  with  the  locality,  as  the  True 
Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters. 

"Acting  on  this  information,  we  started  for  the  upper,  or  southern, 
end  of  the  lake  early  next  morning,  finding,  when  we  reached  it,  that  it 
terminated  in  bulrushes  and  what  seemed  to  be  a  swamp.  Our  guide, 
however,  took  us  through  the  rushes,  and  we  found  that  a  small  but 
swift  stream  entered  here,  up  which,  with  difficulty,  we  pushed  our 
canoes.  This  stream  flows  from  one  of  the  prettiest  lakes  we  h:.d  seen 
on  our  trip.  The  shores  are  high  and  covered  with  verdure,  and  the 
lake,  which  is  nearly  round— its  regularity  being  broken  by  but  one  point- 
has  a  greatest  diameter  of  nearly  two  mles.  Into  this  lake  flow  three 
principal  streams,  which  rise  in  sand  hills  at  distances  ranging  from  one 
to  two  miles  from  the  lake. 

"Having  previously  estimated  the  volume  of  water  flowing  into 
Itasca  by  all  the  streams  contributing  to  it,  and  found  the  one  from  this 
lake  much  in  excess  of  that  of  others,  we  held  a  little  meeting  on  the 
promontory,  and  unanimously  voted  to  call  the  new-found  Source  Lake 
Glazier,  in  honor  of  the  leader  of  our  party. 

"In  regard  to  this  lake  being  the  True  Source  or  Primal  Reservoir  of 


448  APPENDIX. 

the  Mississippi  I  have  but  little  doubt,  though  I  am  not  quite  positive  as 
to  the  rules  followed  in  determining  the  source  of  a  river.  It  seems 
customary  to  select  a  lake  as  the  source,  when  practicable,  and  for  that 
reason  this  honor  was  given  to  Itasca,  though  Schoolcraft  must  have 
surmised  that  other  streams  of  more  or  less  magnitude  flowed  into 
Itasca.  In  regard  to  this  other  lake  to  the  south,  he  must  have  been  in 
entire  ignorance,  owing  perhaps  to  the  rushes  and  dense  lake  growths  at 
the  mouth  of  the  creek  which  led  to  it.    .    .    .    " 

I  produce  ano'ker  of  Mr.  Paine's  descriptive  letters,  printed 
in  the  Saint  Louis  Globe- Democrat,  August,  1881.  Mr.  Pai^e, 
a  man  of  rare  intelligence,  it  will  be  seen,  w.  s  thoroughly 
convinced  in  his  own  mind,  from  personal  investigation, 
that  the  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca  was  the  Source  which  had 
been  so  long  sought  in  vain: 

"Editor  Saint  Louis    Globe-Democrat: 

"  Lake  Itasca  for  many  years  has  been  regarded  both  by  geographical 
societies  and  map  makers,  as  well  as  by  the  public  generally,  as  the  Source 
of  the  grandest  of  rivers— the  mighty  Mississippi.  But  geographical 
knowledge,  like  all  other  knowledge,  is  of  little  consequence  if  it  is  not 
progressive,  and  in  its  history  we  have  seen  the  firmly  rooted  beliefs  of 
centuries  torn  up  and  tossed  aside  by  the  explorations  and  reasoning  of 
intrepid  travelers,  who,  respecting  truth  and  facts  more  than  mere 
theory,  have  accepted  nothing  without  proof,  merely  because  others 
have  so  accepted  it.  This  is  the  ground  occupied  by  Captain  Willard 
Glazier  in  his  explorations  in  search  of  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 

"Starting  for  the  Headwaters  of  tbis  great  river  in  July  last,  he 
learned  that  the  dense  forests  wl.ich  surround  the  Source  of  the  Father 
of  Waters  were  rarely  penetrated  by  white  men,  or  even  by  Indians,  at 
any  time  except  in  winter,  when  lakes  and  rivers  were  frozen  up,  and 
the  whole  surface  of  the  country  covered  with  snow. 

"He  also  heard,  through  the  interpreter  and  Indian  guides  who 
accompanied  him,  that  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  these  primeval  for- 
ests did  not  regard  Itasca  as  the  Source;  but  spoke  of  another  lake, 
broad  and  beautiful,  whiv,h  lay  beyond  Itasca,  and  poured  its  clear  water 
into  the  accepted  Source  through  a  small  stream.  Captain  G  azier  deter- 
mined to  thoroughly  examine  all  this  region,  and  settle  definitely  and 
forever  the  problem  of  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 

"Acting  in  accordance  with  this  resolution,  he  pushed  on  toward 
Itasca,  intending  to  make  it  a  starting-point  for  further  exploration. 
Reaching  this  objective  point  after  innumerable  hardships,  we  camped 
on  Schoolcraft  Island,  and  after  a  night's  rest  he  directed  operations 
toward  the  lakes  and  streams  of  the  surrounding  country.  We  closely 
examined  the  shores  of  Lake  Itasca  for  tributary  streams,  finding  but 
three  of  any  importance.  Of  these  the  one  by  far  the  largest  came  in  at 
the  extreme  head  of  the  lake,  at  a  point  where  it  is  nearly  filled  with 
bulrushes. 


APPENDIX.  449 

"Taking  two  canoes,  Captain  Glazier  ascended  this  stream,  which, 
though  shallow,  is  rapid.  Following  its  windings,  we  entered  what 
appeared  to  be  a  lake  filled  with  reeds  and  rushes.  Pushing  through 
this  barrier,  however,  the  canoes  soon  glided  out  upon  the  still  surface 
of  a  beautiful  lake,  clear  as  crystal,  with  pebbly  bottom,  and  its  shores 
covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  pine.  This  lake  is  formed  in  the  shape  of 
a  heart,  having  but  one  marked  promontory.  Its  greatest  length  is 
about  two  miles  and  its  width  about  a  mile  and  a  half. 

"We  found  that  this  fine  lake  was  fed  by  at  least  three  rivulets, 
which  rose  in  sand  hills  a  few  miles  from  the  lake;  and  thoroughly 
convinced  that  this  body  of  water  was  the  True  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, our  leader  proclaimed  it  as  such.  Without  waiting  for  much 
discussion,  the  party  decided  unanimously  to  call  it  Lake  Glazier,  in 
his  honor.  Expressing  his  thanks  for  this  mark  of  their  appreciation, 
Captain  Glazier  said  that  though  he  fir.nly  believed  the  lake  to  be  the 
Source  of  the  river,  he  should  relax  none  of  his  vigilance  on  the  trip 
through  the  unknown  part  of  the  great  stream,  but  would  carefully 
examine  all  water  flowing  into  the  Mississippi,  in  order  to  be  positive  as 
to  its  origin. " 

The  succeeding  letter  is  one  of  many  that  appeared  in  1881, 
the  period  of  the  First  Glazier  Expedition  to  the  Headwaters 
of  the  Great  River.  Every  leading  paper  from  Saint  Paul  to 
New  Orleans  contained  correspondence  relating  to  the  discov- 
ery of  the  "True  Source,"  and  it  would  require  a  volume  to 
reproduce  all  or  even  one-half  of  these  communications  to  the 
press  by  parties  interested  in  the  question: 

Saint  Louis,  Missouri, 

September  19,  1881. 
Editor  Saint  Louis  Post-Dispatch: 

Lake  Itasca  has  been  considered  to  be  the  source  of  the  Mississippi 
for  so  many  years  that  any  man  who  disputes  its  title  to  that  honor  is 
looked  upon  as  a  radical,  and  one  bent  upon  upsetting  all  one's  precon- 
ceived geographical  ideas.  Still  it  seems  to  be  a  fact  that  Lake  Itasca  is 
not  the  Source,  and  has  no  greater  claim  to  being  called  so  than  Lake 
Cass  or  Lake  Bemidji  or  Lake  Pepin.  This  was  discovered  by  Captain 
Willard  Glazier,  who  headed  an  expedition  last  July,  and  started  for  the 
Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi.  Reaching  Lake  Itasca  after  a  journey  of 
great  difficulty,  he  camped  on  Schoolcraft  Island,  and  thoroughly  exam- 
ined the  lakes  and  streams  which  contribute  their  waters  to  the  Great 
River.  The  various  theories  and  stories  heard  from  his  Indian  guides 
were  considered  as  clews,  and  faithfully  followed  up  until  their  truth  or 
falsity  was  ascertained.  Success  at  length  crowned  his  labors,  for  a 
beautiful  lake  was  found  beyond  Itasca,  and  in  the  direct  line  of  the  course 
of  the  river,  which  proved  to  be  the  farthest  water  -the  extreme  Head  of 
our  grand  Mississippi.  This  lake  is  said  to  be  about  two  miles  in  diame- 
ter, with  clear  water  and  beautiful  surroundings,  fed  by  several  springs, 
39 


450  APPENDIX. 


and  one  of  the  prettiest  of  its  size  in  Minnesota.     The  stream  which 
flows  from  it  into  Itasca  is  very  rapid,  but  narrow.    .    .    . 

Historictjs. 

The  following  extract  is  from  a  letter  received  by  the  present 
writer,  in  May,  1884,  from  Paul  Beaulieu,  interpreter  to  the 
White  Earth  Indian  Agency,  Minnesota.  Beaulieu  is  a  very 
intelligent  French- Canadian.  He  has  lived  all  his  life  within 
seventy  miles  of  the  Head  of  the  Mississippi.  His  lettir  was 
in  answer  to  an  inquiry  as  to  the  views  of  the  people  of  that 
section  concerning  Captain  Glazier's  discovery.     He  writes: 

White  Earth  Indian  Agency,  Minnesota. 
I  would  respectfully  state  that  according  to  the  ideas  of  the  people 
of  this  section  for  scores  of  years  past,  in  alluding  to  Lake  Itasca,  which 
is  known  only  as  Elk  Lake,  or  Omnshkos,  by  the  Indians,  it  was  never 
considered  by  them  as  the  Head  or  Source  of  the  Father  of  Running 
Waters,  or  May-see-see-bee.  I  have  received  the  map  you  sent  me  show- 
ing the  route  of  exploration  of  Captain  Glazier,  1881,  and  am  well 
acquainted  with  his  chief  guide,  Chenowagesic,  who  has  made  the  sec- 
tion of  country  explored  by  Captain  Glazier  his  home  for  many  years, 
and  who  has  at  length  proved  the  truth  of  his  often-repeated  assertion, 
when  maps  were  shown  him,  that  a  lake  beyond  Itasca  would  in  time 
change  an  important  feature  of  those  maps,  and  that  Lake  Itasca  can 
not  maintain  its  claim  to  being  the  Fountain-head  of  Ke-chee-see-be,  or 
the  Great  River.  The  map,  as  outlined  by  Captain  Glazier's  guide, 
Chenowagesic,  is  correct,  and  it  is  plain  to  us,  who  know  the  lay  of  this 
whole  country  (I  mean  by  the  word  us  the  Chippewa  tribe  in  particular), 
that  Lake  Glazier  is  located  at  the  right  place,  and  is  the  highest  lake 
on  the  great  Mississippi,  and  therefore  the  Source  of  that  river. 

Respectfully  yours, 

Paul  Beaulieu. 

A  correspondent  writes  to  the  Boston  Times,  August  29, 
1886,  as  follows: 
Editor  Boston  Times: 

A  glance  at  the  map  of  the  United  States  will  show  that  the  great 
river  of  North  America— the  Mississippi— has  its  Source  in  Northern  Min 
nesota,  flowing  at  first  in  a  northerly  direction,  then  suddenly  darting  off 
at  right  angles  to  the  eastward,  and  then  again  continuing  its  course  in 
a  southerly  direction  until  it  finally  mingles  its  flood  with  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico— a  distance  from  its  source  of  3,184  miles.  It  is  of  the  origin  of 
this  great  river  I  purpose  to  speak  here.  Can  a  river  have  two  sources? 
Now  it  is  a  debated  point  at  the  present  day  whether  Lake  Itasca  or 
Lake  Glazier  is  the  Fountain-head  of  the  Father  of  Waters.  The  for- 
mer lake,  as  everybody  knows,  was  discovered  by  Schoolcraft  in  1832,  the 
latter  by  Glazier  in  1881.  Lake  Glazier  lies  in  latitude  about  47°,  and  as 
the  river  flows  at  first  to  the  northward,  it  is  necessarily  beyond  the 


APPENDIX.  451 

source  assigned  to  it  by  Schoolcraft.  Hence  it  follows,  that  Lake  Gla- 
zier, if  the  premises  are  correct,  is  the  Primal  Reservoir  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, always  granting  that  the  alleged  discovery  is  sufficiently  authen- 
ticated. As  evidence  in  his  favor,  Captain  Glazier  states  that  in  July 
1881,  he  fitted  out  an  Expedition,  composed  of  himself  and  three  or  four 
others,  accompanied  by  an  interpreter  and  Indian  guides,  and  with  the 
necessary  canoes  and  supplies  started  from  Saint  Paul  for  Northern 
Minnesota,  with  the  intention  of  reaching  Lake  Itasca,  and  setting  at 
rest  the  vexed  question  of  its  claim  to  be  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 
According  to  the  accounts  published  at  the  time  in  almost  every  news- 
paper, from  the  extreme  north  to  the  extreme  south  of  the  Great  River, 
and  copied  into  many  of  the  leading  papers  of  the  Eastern  and  Middle 
States,  he  not  only  reached  Itasca,  but  soon  discovered  that  the  famed 
lake  of  Schoolcraft  was  not  the  Source;  that,  in  fact,  another  lake,  nearly 
as  large  as  Itasca,  existed  farther  up— that  is,  farther  south ;  that  this 
latter  was  a  beautiful  sheet  of  wate  \  nestling  among  the  pines,  known 
to  the  Indians  as  Pokegama;  and,  moreover,  that  it  discharged  itself  by 
a  respectable  stream— the  Infant  Mississippi— into  Itasca.  One  of  Cap- 
tain Glazier's  Indian  guides,  rejoicing  in  the  euphemistic  name  of  Che- 
nowagesic,  had  previously  told  him  of  the  existence  of  this  lake,  and  its 
connection  with  Itasca,  and,  therefore,  with  the  Mississippi,  and  piloted 
him  and  his  party  into  it.  This  Indian,  who  is  said  to  have  been 
middle-aged,  very  intel  igent,  and  very  faithful  and  reliable,  told  him,  fur- 
ther, that  no  white  man  had  ever  been  seen  there;  his  own  hunting- 
ground  was  in  the  immediate  vicinity;  and  the  Captain  and  his  associ- 
ates could  readily  believe  that  the  locality  had  probably  never  before 
been  visited  by  civilized  men,  for  the  very  good  reason  that  it  is  well-nigh 
inaccessible.  After  surveying  the  new  lake  and  its  feeders,  the  former 
of  which  he  found  nearly  circular,  an  1  nearly  two  miles  in  diameter,  and 
his  companions  having  formally  christened  it  after  their  leader,  the  Cap- 
tain and  his  party  descended  the  stream  connecting  it  with  Itasca  in 
their  canoes,  and  passing  through  the  latter  lake,  started  on  the  long 
voyage,  they  had  originally  contemplated  as  part  of  their  plans,  down 
the  Great  River  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  After  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
eight  days  of  paddling,  and  many  hairbreadth  escapes,  they  made  the 
Gulf.  But  the  news  of  the  discovery  of  the  new  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi had  reached  New  Orleans  before  them,  as  it  had  reached  Saint  Louis 
before  their  arrival  at  that  city  on  their  way  down.  The  news  was  con- 
sidered of  sufficient  importance  by  the  New  Orleans  Academy  of  Sciences 
to  warrant  their  calling  a  special  meeting  of  the  members,  and  inviting 
Captain  Glazier  to  lay  before  them  the  details  of  his  discovery.  Fully 
satisfied  as  to  the  validity  of  his  claim,  highly  complimentary  resolutions 
were  passed,  recognizing  the  discovery.  On  his  return  journey  to  Saint 
Louis,  Captain  Glazier  was  officially  invited  to  lay  before  the  members 
of  the  Missouri  Historical  Society  some  account  of  his  explorations  in 
Northern  Minnesota,  and  again  the  fact  was  duly  indorsed,  by  resolution, 
that  Lake  Glazier  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  Since  that  date- 
January,  1882— other  scientific  bodies  have,  after  due  investigation-  ?iven 
their  recognition  to  the  genuineness  of  the  discovery.      The  maps  of 


452  APPENDIX. 

soma  of  the  leading  map  publishers  have  been  corrected,  and  Lake 
Itasca  no  longer  figures  on  them  as  the  source  of  the  Great  River, 
Lalce  Glazier  having  taken  its  place.  The  school  geographies  of  several 
publishers  likewise  give  Lake  Glazier  as  the  Source. 

All  this  evidence  seems  conclusive  of  the  authenticity  and  credibil- 
ity of  the  claim  of  Captain  Willard  Glazier,  albeit  we  are  reluctant  to 
give  up  the  good  old  poetic  name  of  Itasca.  The  world  moves,  however, 
and  we  must  move  with  it.  Glazier's  name,  like  those  of  De  Soto,  Mar- 
quette, La  Salle,  Hennepin,  and  others,  will,  we  venture  to  think,  be 
indissolubly  associated,  for  all  time,  with  our  grand  old  river. 

Good-by,  Itasca  1  Thy  beautiful  name  loses  none  of  its  sweetness, 
though  shorn  of  its  glory.  May-see-see-bee. 

The  following  is  copy  of  a  letter  sent  to  General  J.  H. 
Baker  of  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society,  Saint  Paul.  No 
reply  was  'vouchsafed  t  or  the  slightest  notice  taken  of  it. 
Glazier,  although  for  many  years  a  member  in  good  standing 
of  the  G.  A.  R. ,  evidently  made  a  mistake  in  approaching  so 
important  a  personage — albeit  a  comrade — with  au  offer  to 
submit  facts  of  which  he  was  personally  cognizant.  The 
letter,  unacknowledged,  I  here  insert : 

Syracuse,  New  York, 

January  17,  1887. 
General  J.  H.  Baker,  Saint  Paul,  Minnesota. 

Dear  Sir  and  Comrade:  I  have  just  learned  through  my  brother, 
now  in  your  city,  that  you  are  a  member  of  the  Minnesota  Historical 
Society  and  take  considerable  interest  in  the  controversy  concerning  the 
True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  It  occurs  to  me  that  you  might  possibly 
like  to  be  put  in  possession  of  a  few  facts  relative  to  the  mooted  ques- 
tion. If  I  am  right  in  this  supposition,  I  shall  be  pleased  to  place  at 
your  disposal  such  matter  as  I  have  at  my  command,  and  in  the  mean- 
time, remain, 

Yours  in  F.  C.  and  L., 

Willard  Glazier. 

I  subjoin  a  letter  to  Governor  A.  R.  McGill  of  Minnesota. 
The  intention  of  this  Appendix  is  to  give  as  nearly  as  possible 
a  concise  and  truthful  account  of  the  controversy  that  fol- 
lowed upon  the  announcement  of  the  discovery  of  the  True 
Source  of  the  Mississippi.  A  letter  to  the  Governor  was 
thought  advisable  at  a  time  when  the  Historical  Society's  paid 
agents  were  publishing  coarse  and  calumnious  articles  against 
Captain  Glazier  in  a  fruitless  attempt  to  discredit  him  bef  >re 
the  public.  It  is  needless  to  add  that  in  this  case  a  courteous 
reply  was  received  by  the  writer. 


APPENDIX.  453 

Camden,  New  Jersey, 

February  18,  1887. 
To  Governor  A.  R.  McGill,  Saint  Paul,  Minnesota. 

Dear  Sir:  Permit  me  to  address  you  on  the  subject  of  Captain 
Willard  Glazier's  claim  to  have  located  the  True  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi River.  It  is  the  general  belief  that  the  opposition  to  this  claim 
originated  with  a  firm  of  school-book  and  map  publishers  in  New  York 
City,  whose  single  motive  was  to  advertise  themselves  and  their  wares, 
and  this  firm  appears  to  have  secured  an  advocate  in  a  very  active 
member  of  your  State  Historical  Soci3ty,  named  Baker.  This  man  has 
not  scrupled  in  his  attempts  to  disci-edit,  and,  if  possible,  dishonor  my 
friend  by  an  energetic  and  interested  opposition  to  his  claim  to  have 
been  the  first  white  man  to  locate  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 

And  right  here  I  will  say,  that  from  a  loig  and  most  intimate 
acquaintance  with  Captain  Willard  Glazier,  I  know  him  to  be  eminently 
precise,  cautious,  exact,  and  conscientious  in  everything  he  says  and 
does,  and  would  be  the  last  man  in  the  world  to  advance  a  theory  that  he 
knew  to  be  groundless,  or  in  the  slightest  degree  open  to  question. 

His  title  to  respectful  consideration  i.-?  founded,  i:i  a  measure,  on 
his  honorable  military  record  during  the  war  of  the  Rebellion,  and  the 
authorship  of  several  popular  works— mostly  relating  to  military  affairs. 
He  is  scrupulously  truthful,  and  his  moral  character,  in  every  respect, 
beyond  impeachment. 

In  July,  1881,  I  assisted  him  in  organizing  his  expedition  to  the 
Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi;  and  although  I  did  not  accompany  him 
beyond  Saint  Paul,  am  thoroughly  posted  on  every  step  of  his  progress 
to  Lake  Itasca  and  the  lake  above  it,  which  stands  at  the  head  of  the 
Great  River  and  is  its  True  Source. 

Mr.  Baker,  who  appears  to  be  running  the  Minnesota  Historical 
Society,  has  greatly  belittled  himself  in  the  estimation  of  every  <  ne  out- 
side the  society  by  the  malevolent  course  he  is  adopting.  Captain 
Glazier  has  offered  to  pay  one-half  the  expenses  of  a  commission  of  com- 
petent engineers  and  surveyors  to  proceed  to  the  lake  he  has  located  as 
the  True  Source,  and  to  abide  by  their  decision  on  the  subject.  Can  any- 
thing be  fairer  or  more  liberal  than  this,  or  afford  stronger  proof  of  his 
honest  faith  in  his  discovery,  and  therefore  of  his  title  to  be  accredited 
with  it?    I  have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

Pearce  Giles. 

About  the  commencement  of  the  year  1887,  while  at  Syra- 
cuse, New  York,  Captain  Glazier  was  advised  by  friends  in 
Saint  Paul  that  scurrilous  and  libelous  articles  were  appearing 
in  the  loca'  press  concerning  him,  having  reference  to  his 
claim  to  have  located  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  News- 
papers reached  him  containing  letters  from  his  critics  of 
the  Historical  Society,  and  the  writers,  not  satisfied  with 
denying  his  claim,  attempted  to  injure  him  in  public  opinion 


454  APPENDIX. 

by  denouncing  him  as  "a  fraud"  and  "an  adventurer." 
He  thereupon  started  for  Saint  Paul,  and  on  his  arrival  in  that 
city  hastily  wrote  the  subjoined  letter.  In  this,  no  word 
unbecoming  a  gentleman  appeared.  He  confined  himself  to 
placing  the  grounds  of  his  claim  before  the  reader,  and  made 
very  little  reference  to  the  defamatory  language  of  his  tra- 
ducers. 

With  reference  to  the  proposition  to  the  Historical  Society, 
in  the  last  paragraph  of  his  letter,  it  is  significant  that  no 
notice  was  taken  of  it,  and  if  one  may  judge  from  the  news- 
paper comment  of  the  time,  the  learned  society  was  afraid,  if 
they  accepted  his  liberal  offer,  that  the  "adventurer"  might 
establish  his  claim  and  so  place  them  in  an  undignified  predica- 
ment before  the  public. 

Merchants1  Hotel, 

Saint  Paul,  Minnesota, 

February  12, 1887. 

Editor  Saint  Paul  Dispatch:  I  have  come  to  Minnesota  in  1887  to 
claim  the  credit  which  was  very  generally  accorded  me  by  press  and 
people  in  1881.  I  do  not  ask  for  anything  which  is  not  in  justice  mine, 
and  if  I  am  unable  to  win  my  case  without  descending  to  personalities 
and  mud  throwing,  I  prefer  to  lose  it.  I  was  taught  in  the  schools  of 
the  East  that  Lake  Itasca  was  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and 
when  I  reached  this  State  in  1881,  ascertained  that  its  title  was  still 
unquestioned  by  white  men.  To  quote  from  my  recent  letter  to  the 
Pioneer  Press:  "Those  who  have  been  my  most  persistent  critics  in 
this  controversy  opened  the  battle  with  the  assertion  that  Lake  Itasca 
was  the  undoubted  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  that,  at  the  time  of  my 
expedition,  there  was  nothing  of  an  exploratory  character  in  Northern 
Minnesota. "  How  well  they  have  been  able  to  justify  their  position  will 
be  developed  as  we  advance. 

Por  many  years  prior  to  1881,  I  had  been  of  the  opinion  that  Lake 
Itasca  occupied  an  erroneous  position  in  our  geography.  In  fact,  I  had 
become  satisfied,  through  conversations  with  straggling  Chippewas  in 
the  Northwest,  that  the  red  man's  ideal  river  did  not  rise  in  the  lake 
described  by  his  white  brother,  but  that  there  were  other  lakes  and 
streams  beyond  that  lake,  and  some  day  the  truth  of  their  statements 
would  be  verified. 

Thoroughly  convinced  that  there  was  yet  a  field  for  exploration  in 
Northern  Minnesota,  I  resolved,  in  1876,  to  attempt  a  settlement  of  the 
vexed  question  concerning  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  at  an  early  day. 
Finding  the  opportunity  I  sought,  in  1881, 1  came  to  Saint  Paul  in  June  of 
that  year,  accompanied  by  Pearce  Giles  of  Camden,  New  Jersey.  Here 
I  was  joined  by  my  brother  George  of  Chicago,  and  Barrett  Channing 
Paine  of  the  Pioneer  Press. 


APPENDIX.  455 


Having  completed  arrangements,  I  left  Saint  Paul  on  the  morning 
of  July  fourth,  with  Brainerd  as  our  immediate  objective.  Short  halts 
were  made  at  Minneapolis,  Monticello,  Saint  Cloud,  and  Little  Falls,  on 
our  way  up  the  river.  Brainerd  was  reached  July  seventh.  This  town  is 
situated  near  the  boundary  of  the  Chippewa  Indian  Reservation,  and  is 
the  nearest  place  of  consequence  to  Lake  Itasca.  Here  I  again  halted  to 
further  inform  myself  concerning  the  topography  of  the  country;  to 
decide  upon  the  most  feasible  route  to  our  destination,  and  to  provide 
such  extra  supplies  of  rations,  clothing,  and  general  outfit  as  might  be 
considered  essential  to  the  success  of  our  undertaking.  After  consulting 
my  maps,  I  concluded  that  while  Schoolcraft  and  Nicollet  had  found 
Itasca  by  going  up  the  river  through  Lakes  Winnebegoshish,  Cass,  and 
Bemidji,  the  most  direct  course  would  be  by  way  of  Leech  Lake  and 
Kabekanka  River. 

A  careful  study  of  the  route  to  Leech  Lake,  with  a  few  valuable 
suggestions  from  Warren  Leland,  one  of  the  oldest  l-esidents  of  Brainerd, 
led  us  to  seek  conveyance  to  the  former  place  over  what  is  known  in 
Northern  Minnesota  as  the  Government  Road. 

While  at  the  Leech  Lake  Indian  Agency,  we  obtained  valuable 
information  concerning  the  peculiar  characteristics  of  the  Indians  on 
the  Chippewa  Reservation.  At  this  place,  it  was  our  good  fortune  to 
meet  the  Post  Missionary,  Rev.  Edwin  Benedict;  Major  A.  C.  Ruffee,  the 
Indian  Agent;  Paul  Beaulieu,  the  veteran  Government  Interpreter; 
Flatmouth,  head  chief  of  the  Chippewas;  White  Cloud,  chief  of  the 
Mississippis,  and  several  others,  well  known  at  the  Agency.  Through 
conversations  with  these  parties,  I  learned  that  pioneers  of  that  region 
were  of  the  opinion  that  the  lake  located  by  Schoolcraft  was  the  Source  of 
the  Mississippi;  but  the  Indians  invariably  claimed  that  the  Great  River 
had  its  Origin  in  a  beautiful  lake  above,  and  beyond,  Itasca.  Paul  Beau- 
lieu,  who  is  perhaps  the  best  authority  in  Minnesota  on  the  subject,  hav- 
ing lived  for  more  than  sixty  years  within  its  borders,  said,  in  substance, 
that  Chenowagesic,  the  most  intelligent  Chippewa  of  his  acquaintance, 
had  made  the  Itasca  region  his  home  for  many  years,  and  that  he  had 
always  asserted,  when  maps  were  shown  him,  that  a  lake  above  Itasca 
would  in  time  change  a  feature  of  those  maps,  and  confirm  his  statement 
that  "  Lake  Itasca  could  not  longer  maintain  its  claim  to  being  the  fount- 
ain-head of  Ke-chee-see-bee,  or  Great  River,  which  is  named  May-see- 
see-be  by  the  Chippewas." 

Three  days  were  spent  at  Leech  Lake,  during  which  time  we 
secured  an  interpreter,  Indian  guides,  and  birch-bark  canoes.  Every- 
thing being  in  order,  we  launched  our  canoes  on  the  morning  of  July 
seventeenth,  wishing,  as  previously  explained,  to  approach  Itasca  by  a 
different  route  from  that  employed  by  Schoolcraft  and  Nicollet,  who 
went  up  the  Mississippi  from  Lake  Winnebegoshish.  I  crossed  Leech 
Lake,  and  ascended  the  Kabekanka  River,  thence  in  a  direct  westerly 
course,  through  twenty-one  lakes,  alternated  by  as  many  portages, 
reaching  Itasca  between  two  and  three  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
twenty-first. 

The  work  of  coasting  Itasca  for  its  feeders  was  begun  at  an  early 


Q  -D 
—  d) 
cr     a. 


<    O 


(456) 


APPENDIX.  45? 

hour  on  the  morning  of  the  twenty-second.  We  found  the  outlets  of  six 
small  streams,  two  having  well-defined  mouths,  and  four  filtering  into 
the  lake  through  bogs.  The  upper  end  of  the  southwestern  arm  of 
Itasca  is  heavily  margined  with  reeds  and  rushes,  and  it  was  not  without 
considerable  difficulty  that  we  forced  our  way  through  this  barrier  into 
the  larger  of  the  two  open  streams  which  enter  at  this  point.  This 
stream,  at  its  mouth,  is  seven  feet  wide  and  three  feet  deep.  Slow  and 
tortuous  progress  of  between  two  and  three  hundred  yards,  brought  us 
to  a  blockade  of  logs  and  shallow  water.  Determined  to  float  in  my 
canoe  upon  the  surface  of  the  lake  toward  which  we  were  paddling,  I 
directed  the  guides  to  remove  the  obstructions,  and  continued  to  urge 
the  canoes  rapidly  forward,  although  opposed  by  a  strong  and  con- 
stantly increasing  current.  On  pulling  and  pushing  our  way  through  a 
network  of  rushes,  similar  to  that  encountered  on  leaving  Itasca,  the 
cheering  sight  of  a  transparent  body  of  water  burst  upon  our  view. 

This  lake,  the  Chippewa  name  of  which  is  PoJcegama,  is  about  a 
mile  and  a  ualf  in  its  greatest  diameter,  and  would  be  nearly  an  oval  in 
form  but  for  a  single  promontory  at  its  southern  extremity,  which 
extends  its  shores  into  the  lake  so  as  to  give  it  in  outline  the  appearance 
of  a  heart.  Its  principal  feeders  are  three  creeks,  two  of  which  enter 
on  the  right  and  left  of  the  headland,  and  have  their  origin  in  springs 
at  the  foot  of  sand  hills  from  two  to  three  miles  distant.  The  third 
stream  is  but  little  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  and  is  the  outlet  of  a 
small  lake  situated  to  the  south  west  ward. 

Assuming  that  the  statements  of  my  party  are  clearly  indisputable 
concerning  the  lake  which  I  claim  as  the  Source,  it  must  be  admitted: 

I.  That  Lake  Itasca  can  not  longer  be  mainta'ned  as  the  Fountain- 
head,  for  the  reason  that  it  is  the  custom,  agreeably  to  the  definition  of 
geographers,  to  fix  upon  the  remotest  water,  and  a  lake  if  possible,  as 
the  source  of  a  river. 

II.  That  Schoolcraft  could  not  have  seen  the  lake  located  by  me, 
else  he  would  have  pronounced  it  the  Source,  placed  it  upon  his  map, 
and  described  it  as  such. 

III.  Nicollet,  who  followed  Schoolcraft,  could  not  have  been  aware 
of  its  existence,  as  he  gives  it  no  place  upon  his  map,  or  description  in 
the  narrative  of  his  expedition. 

IV.  The  Government  survey  is  in  error  in  showing  that  the  outlet  of 
the  lakelet  to  the  southwest  of  my  lake  debouches  in  Lake  Itasca. 

Whatever  the  verdict,  and  regardless  of  the  name  applied  to  it,  the 
lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca  was  certainly  not  known  to  the  white  inhabit- 
ants of  Northern  Minnesota  prior  to  1881.  Lake  Itasca  was  still  recog- 
nized as  the  Origin  of  the  river,  was  placed  upon  the  maps,  and  taught 
as  such  in  all  the  schools  of  the  country. 

I  simply  claim  to  have  established  the  fact  that  there  is  a  beautiful 
lake  above  and  beyond  Itasca,  wider  and  deeper  than  that  lake,  with 
woodland  shores,  with  three  constantly  flowing  streams  for  its  feeders, 
and  in  every  way  worthy  of  the  position  it  occupies  as  the  Primal  Reser- 
voir—the True  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters. 

In  conclusion,  it  was  with  no  intent  to  deprive  Schoolcraft,  Nicollet, 


458  APPENDIX. 

or  any  other  explorer  who  preceded  nie  of  their  well-earned  laurels,  that 
I  announced  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  Having  entered  the  lake 
to  the  south  of  Itasca  and  definitely  located  its  feeders,  I  became  satisfied 
that  it  was  the  Primal  Reservoir  of  the  Great  River,  and  so  announced  it 
to  the  geographical  world.    This  is  the  head  and  front  of  my  offending. 

The  Minnesota  Historical  Society  has  now  re-affirmed  that  Lake 
Itasca  is  the  Fountain-head.  If  this  is  true,  then  "Lake  Glazier'"  is  of 
little  more  importance  than  any  other  of  the  ten  thousand  lakes  of 
Minnesota.  If  I  am  right  and  the  Historical  Society  is  wrong,  then  I 
submit,  in  the  name  of  justice,  am  I  not  at  least  entitled  to  considerate 
treatment? 

So  confident  am  I  of  the  rightfulness  of  my  claim,  that  I  make  this 
proposition  to  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society,  that  this  question  may 
be  settled  for  all  time:  That  the  gentleman  who  introduced  bill  "No. 
^07, -1  withdraw  the  same  and  substitute  one  of  the  following  tenor:  That 
the  Legislature  commission  three  persons,  one  to  be  selected  by  the 
Governor,  one  by  the  American  Geographical  Society,  and  one  by  myself, 
who  shall  be  empowered  to  employ  competent  surveyors  to  visit  the 
Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  and  report  their  decision  on  this  matter  to 
the  next  session  of  the  Legislature  of  this  State,  for  the  passage  of  a  bill 
formulated  on  their  investigations  and  findings. 

If  this  is  done  I  will,  as  I  have  before  offered  to  do,  deposit  in 
some  National  bank  of  Saint  Paul  sufficient  funds  to  cover  one-half  the 
expense  of  the  expedition,  provided  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society,  or 
any  person  or  persons,  will  furnish  the  other  half.  Can  I  offer  a  fairer 
proposition?  If  not  accepted,  my  case  is  prejudged.  If  accepted,  let  the 
State  of  Minnesota  and  the  geographical  world  abide  the  issue,  as  I  am 
willing  to  do. 

Willard  Glazier. 

Rev.  John  C.  Crane  of  West  Millbury,  Massachusetts,  a 
writer  and  recognized  authority  in  the  East  upon  matters  per- 
taining to  general  history,  science,  and  geography,  expressed 
hi*  views  on  the  claim  of  Captain  Glazier  in  the  following 

letter  to  the  Saint  Paul  Dispatch: 

West  Millbury, 
December  10, 1888. 
Editor  Saint  Paul  Dispatch: 

My  attention  has  been  called  to  the  communication  of  J.  V.  Brower, 
published  in  a  Saint  Paul  paper  recently.  All  the  letters  in  oppo- 
sition to  the  claim  of  Captain  Glazier  show  so  much  spite  and  venom 
against  the  Captain  that  I  can  not  refrain  from  lending  him  a  hand, 
although  I  think  him  well  able  to  take  care  of  himself.  In  the  map 
published  with  the  Brower  article  in  the  Pioneer  Press,  he  tries  to 
prove  that  the  lake  south  of  Itasca,  which  is  found  to  be  wider  and 
deeper  than  the  lake  of  Schoolcraft,  is  not  the  True  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. I  make  the  statement  that  what  he  says  is  the  Source  is  nothing 
but  an  insignificant  lakelet  or  pond  compared  with  the  Glazier  lake. 
A  glance  at  the  map  of  that  region  will  convince  any  one  in  possession 


APPENDIX  459 

of  an  unprejudiced  mind, which  is  the  largest  lake  in  that  region  beyond 
Itasca  with  requisite  feeders  and  all  the  requirements  of  the  Source  of  a 
river.  A  puddle  among  the  sand  hills,  dribbling  its  tribute  along,  can 
not  dispute  the  right  of  Lake  Glazier.  Mr.  Brower  claims  that  a  pond 
to  the  west  of  the  Glazier  lake  is  the  Source.  But  in  this  his  own  map 
contradicts  him,  as  on  that  map  his  Source  and  the  stream  entering  the 
west  arm  of  Itasca  would  be  much  farther  to  the  north  than  Lake  Gla- 
zier, and  therefore  can  not  be  the  Source.  I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying 
that  Captain  Glazier  was  cognizant  of  all  that  Mr.  Brower  claims.  I 
know  the  region  well,  and  don't  believe  that  an  Indian  can  be  founl  in 
that  locality  but  will  say  that  he  believes  Lake  Glazier  to  be  the  Primal 
Reservoir,  and  therefore  the  Head  of  the  Father  of  Waters.  With  one 
fell  swoop  of  Brower's  pen,  one  lake  of  Nicollet  disappears;  the  Govern- 
ment surveyors  of  that  region  have  clanked  their  chains  and  stuck  their 
pins  in  the  wrong  place.  It  was  reserved  for  a  party  of  hunters,  "out 
for  a  day's  shooting,"  to  discover  in  a  frog-pond  the  fountain-head  of 
the  mightiest  river  in  our  land.  Schoolcraft  says  that "  the  True  Source 
of  a  river  is  a  point  at  the  remotest  distance  from  its  mouth,"  but  con- 
nected with  this  statement  are  other  points  to  be  considered.  The  pro  • 
portions  of  the  lakes  claimed  as  the  Source,  and  the  depth  of  water,  are 
also  to  be  taken  into  account.  Shall  we  ignore  PoJcegama,  or  Lak^  Gla- 
zier, two  miles  long,  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  and  forty-five  feet  deep,  for 
an  insignificant  pond?  Thirty  years  ago  the  writer  was  a  resident  of 
Minnesota,  and  even  then  the  idea  was  advanced  that  Itasca  was  not  the 
Source  of  the  Great  River.  For  a  long  time  after  Captain  Glazier 
announced  the  lake  named  after  him  by  his  companions  as  the  True 
Source,  no  one  disputed  the  truthfulness  of  his  claim.  Few  men  have 
had  so  many  ovations  from  individuals  and  societies  as  he.  Jealous 
and  interested  parties  since  that  time  have  sought  to  stamp  out  his 
claim  and  the  author  of  it.  If  these  gentlemen  are  sincere  in  their 
desire  to  settle  this  much-discussed  question  as  to  the  True  Source  of  the 
river,  why  do  they  not  accept  Captain  Glazier's  proposition?  He  has 
offered  to  pay  one-half  the  cost  of  an  expedition,  fully  equipped,  that 
shall  settle  the  question  on  its  merits,  if  his  opponents  will  pay  the 
other  half.  The  fact  is  they  dare  not  do  it.  Time  has  only  strengthened 
Captain  Glazier  in  the  belief  that  his  lake  is  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi.    In  that  belief  the  writer  coincides. 

One  word  and  I  have  done.  Mr.  Brower,  in  his  article  in  the  Pioneer 
Press,  alludes  to  the  M  so-called  Captain  Willard  Glazier."  If  holding  a 
captain's  commission,  bearing  the  broad  seal  of  the  great  Empire  State, 
in  one  of  the  companies  of  a  daring  cavalry  regiment,  and  tasting  the 
horrors  of  nearly  all  the  rebel  prisons  in  the  late  war  does  not  entitle  a 
man  to  be  called  "Captain,"  then  I  should  like  to  be  informed  what 
qualifications  are  necessary.  J.  C.  Crane. 

Bearing  upon  the  subject  of  the  True  Source  of  the 
Great  River,  the  following  from  a  "  Student "  of  the  question, 
resident  in  the  East,  will  be  found  apt  and  well  reasoned: 


460  APPEKDl*. 

Rochester,  February  30, 1887. 
Editor  Saint  Paul  Dispatch : 

Your  paper  of  the  18th  inst.  has  just  come  under  my  notice.  You 
say  that  the  State  Historical  Society  proposes  to  sit  down  on  Captain 
Willard  Glazier's  claim  to  have  located  the  True  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. From  information  that  has  reached  me,  I  am  of  the  opinion  that 
not  many  intelligent  citizens  of  Minnesota  will  be  found  to  "  sit  down  " 
with  them.  One  thing  is  certain:  that  Itasca  is  not  the  Source.  No  one 
in  his  senses  will  now  affirm  that  it  is;  and  if  the  lake  to  the  south  of  it, 
and  fall.ng  into  it,  is  not  the  Source,  where  is  it  to  be  found?  The  lakelet 
to  the  southwest— marked  "  Alice  M  on  the  Glazier  map— which  empties 
into  Lake  Glazier,  is  simply  a  feeder  of  the  newly  located  Source,  and, 
according  to  the  Glazier  survey,  is  erroneously  marked  on  the  Land- 
office  map  as  f ailing  into  Lake  Itasca.  This  little  fact  makes  all  the  dif- 
ference in  the  world. 

Captain  Glazier's  opponents  will  find  it  uphill  work  to  convince 
sensible  men  that  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  is  not  in  the  lake  in 
which  he  has  placed  it.  If  this  lake  had  been  seen  before  he  visited  it  in 
1881,  he  was  certainly  the  first  man,  as  it  appears  to  me,  to  announce  it  to 
the  world  as  the  True  Source,  and  should,  in  common  fairness,  have  the 

credit  that  attaches  to  a  first  discovery. 

Student. 

An  open  letter  from  Captain  Willard  Glazier  to  the  Minne- 
sota Historical  Society,  published  widely  in  Minnesota  and  the 
Sta'es  bordering  upon  the  Mississippi: 

Philadelphia,  March  20, 1889. 
To  tlte  President  and  Members  of  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society. 

Gentlemen:  I  have  just  noticed  in  the  Saint  Paul  papers  that  the 
question  of  the  Source  of  the  Great  River  is  again  occupying  your  atten- 
tion, although  I  had  long  since  concluded  that  the  several  expeditions 
which  have  followed  mine  of  1881  had  sufficiently  enlightened  your  hon- 
orable body  upon  the  mooted  topic  to  enable  you  to  make  satisfactory 
deductions  as  to  the  veracity  and  validity  of  my  published  statements. 

It  is  now  nearly  eight  years  since  I  published  the  fact  that  Lake  Itasca 
was  not  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  but  that  another  lake  to  the  south 
of  it  was  the  Fountain-head  of  the  river.  During  the  interval  that  has 
elapsed  since  1881, 1  have  been  criticised  by  a  few  persons,  some  of  whom 
claim  to  have  visited  the  region,  and  by  others  who  have  never  been  within 
hundreds  of  miles  of  it.  At  this  late  date,  however,  nearly  eight  years 
after  my  announcement,  and  notwithstanding  the  silly  antagonism  of  a 
few  opponents,  I  am  as  firmly  convinced  as  I  was  on  the  twenty  second 
day  of  July,  1881,  that  the  heart-shaped  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  and 
falling  into  the  latter,  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  that 
Lake  Itasca,  therefore,  has  no  title  whatever  to  this  distinction.  I  have 
been  before  the  world  for  many  years,  and  am  well  known  to  thousands 
of  my  fellow-countrymen,  not  one  of  whom,  I  venture  to  say,  would 
accuse  me  of  ever  stating  what  I  did  not  believe  to  be  true.    Yet  these 


APPENDIX.  461 

would-be  critics  and  detractors  have  not  scrupled  to  charge  me  with  falsi- 
fying, and  almost  every  other  crime  short  of  murder  in  the  first  degree, 
because  I  have  had  the  temerity  to  assert,  and  re-assert,  the  truth  upon 
a  subject  about  which  I  am  thoroughly  cognizant,  aud  of  which  I  have 
no  more  doubt  than  I  have  of  the  existence  of  the  Mississippi  itself,  or 
of  my  own  identity. 

What  possible  excuse  there  can  be  for  visiting  that  region  at  a  time 
when  the  locality  is  covered  with  ice  and  snow,  is  to  me  and  many  others 
incomprehensible.  Permit  me  to  express  the  honest  conviction  that  per- 
sonal consideration  for  two  or  three  persons  in  the  greet  State  of  Minne- 
sota appears  to  have  had  more  influence  in  the  deliberations  of  your 
society,  than  a  desire  to  establish  a  geographical  truth.  Those  who 
have  been  recently  commissioned  to  report  on  the  topography  of  the 
country  at  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  are  apparently  visiting 
that  section  with  the  aim,  and  probably  the  determination,  of  disproving 
me,  the  quibbling  of  their  letters  to  the  press  showing  most  clearly  that 
they  are  gone  in  search  of  anything  but  geographical  facts.  If  it  really 
was  the  opinion  of  your  learned  body  that  another  expedition  was  nec- 
essary to  remove  all  doubt  upon  the  subject,  why  dispatch  an  individual 
on  this  mission  who  is  well  known  to  you  to  be  personally  inimical  to  me. 
Why  not  have  appointed  some  one  to  represent  my  side  of  the  question, 
or  at  least  some  one  known  to  be  unprejudiced  and  disinterested?  Can 
it  be  possible  that  you  have  forgotten  my  offer  made  two  years  ago, 
when  this  question  was  under  discussion  before  the  Legislature?  Believ- 
ing, then,  that  it  was  your  wish  to  see  fair  play,  and  that  you  desired  to 
go  on  record  as  advocates  of  the  truth,  I  respectfully  submitted:  "  That 
the  Legislature  commission  three  persons,  one  to  be  selected  by  the  Gov- 
ernor, one  by  the  American  Geographical  Society,  and  one  by  myself, 
who  were  to  be  empowered  to  employ  competent  surveyors,  visit  the 
region,  and  report  their  decision  to  the  next  Legislature  of  your  State, 
with  a  view  to  the  passage  of  a  bill  on  the  subject.  If  this  is  done,"  I 
added,  "I  will  deposit  in  some  National  bank  of  Saint  Paul  sufficient 
funds  to  cover  one-half  the  expense  of  the  expedition,  provided  the 
Minnesota  Historical  Society,  or  any  person  or  persons,  will  guarantee 
the  other  half.  If  not  accepted,  my  case  is  prejudged.  If  accepted,  let 
the  State  of  Minnesota  and  the  geographical  world  abide  the  issue,  as  I 
am  willing  to  do.1'  This  proposition  was  submitted  February  12,  1887, 
and  I  felt  much  gratified  at  the  time  that  my  proffer  to  your  society  was 
received  with  general  approval  by  the  press  throughout  the  country,  and 
that  your  local  papers  were  especially  pleased,  and  pronounced  it  just 
and  fair.  But  notwithstanding  this,  and  my  willingness  to  meet  you 
half-way  in  any  movement  tending  to  a  just  and  impartial  decision  upon 
the  merits  of  the  question,  the  impression  at  Saint  Paul  seemed  to  be, 
that,  having  been  drawn  into  an  error,  you  would  employ  no  one  to  repre- 
sent you  who  was  not  committed  or  pledged  to  your  side  of  the  contro- 
versy. Is  this  a  fair  and  proper  course  to  pursue?  Would  it  not  inspire 
greater  confidence  in  your  candor  and  impartiality  to  have  tlie  investi- 
gation made  by  entirely  disinterested  persons,  on  whose  report  full  reli- 
ance could  be  placed?   I  feel  sure  that  a  majority  of  the  members  of 


462  APPENDIX. 

your  society  have  a  sufficient  sense  of  honor  to  realize  that  it  is  very 
unfair  to  employ  two  persons  to  investigate  and  report  upon  a  s.bject 
which  has  engaged  the  attention  of  half  a  dozen  others,  one  of  the  for- 
mer having,  as  is  well  known,  prejudged  the  case,  and  avowed  himself  a 
bitter  opponent  to  me — although  I  have  never,  to  my  knowledge,  seen 
the  man  or  held  any  communication  with  him.  I  am  confident  you  will 
candidly  admit  that  nothing  can  be  more  inequitable  than  to  commission 
a  man  to  confirm  himself  and  disprove  his  adversary,  without  giving  the 
latter  even  a  hearing.  The  apparent  anxiety  of  certain  members  of 
your  society  would  seem  to  indicate  that  there  is  considerable  uncer- 
tainty in  your  camp  as  to  the  late  reports  of  J.  V.  Brower  and  others 
upon  whom  you  have  relied  for  a  correct  statement  of  facts,  and  I  shall 
not  be  surprised,  if  in  the  end  you  arrive  at  the  conclusion  that  their 
veracious  reports  are  very  contradictory,  and  therefore  altogether 
untrustworthy.  If  Mr.  Brower's  first  statement  of  his  views,  published 
in  the  Pioneer  Press,  was  an  honest  presentation  of  the  case,  what 
ground  can  there  be  now  for  sending  him  out  a  second  time  to  make 
another  report,  in  which,  of  course,  he  will  not  fail  to  verify  himself. 

If  my  memory  serves  me,  it  was  the  argument  of  your  society,  in 
1887,  that  Lake  Itasca  was  the  source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  that  nothing 
beyond  this  lake  was  worthy  of  consideration.  Now  that  I  have,  in  the 
opinion  of  thousands,  established  to  the  contrary,  j^ou  do  not,  I  believe, 
assume  that  Itasca  is  the  Primal  Reservoir;  but,  in  order  to  throw  dis- 
credit upon  my  announcement  of  1881,  you  dispatch  a  delegation  of  one 
or  two  individuals  to  that  quarter,  for  the  well-understood  purpose  of 
giving  prominence  to  two  or  three  ponds  and  rivulets  which  have  a  doubt- 
ful existence  during  the  summer  months.  This  conduct,  gentlemen,  is 
unworthy  of  an  institution  claiming  the  title  of  "  Historical  Society,"  and 
I  have  faith  to  believe  that  the  great  majority  of  the  intelligent  and 
fair-minded  citizens  of  Minnesota,  in  and  out  of  your  society,  will  be 
disposed  to  place  the  credit  of  locating  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi 
where  it  properly  belongs. 

Permit  me  to  inquire  again,  what  excuse  you  have  for  your  latest 
expedition?  Have  you  not  already  accepted  the  statements  of  those  who 
followed  me?  Why  not  accept  their  maps  as  conclusive,  instead  of  send- 
ing them  back  to  re-investigate  their  first  investigation.  Has  not  this 
flimsy  farce  been  carried  far  enough?  Have  you  sent  J.  V.  Brower  back 
to  the  scene  of  his  late  operations  for  the  reason  that  his  maps  confirm 
my  statements?  If  so,  I  fear  eternity  itself  will  find  you  only  at  the 
threshold  of  your  researches. 

I  conclude  by  re-asserting  that  the  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  and 

connected  therewith  by  a  perennial  stream,  is  the  Primal  Reservoir  or 

True  Source  of  the  Mississippi;  that  it  was  not  so  considered  prior  to  the 

visit  of  my  expedition,  in  1881,  and  that  my  party  was  the  first  to  locate 

its  feeders  correctly,  and  discover  its  true  relation  to  the  Great  River. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be, 

Very  respectfully  yours, 

Willard  Glazier. 
The  Minneapolis  Spectator  is  the  leading  literary  journal  of 


APPENDIX.  463 

that  city,  and  contains,  among  other  valuable  matter,  com- 
ments on  current  topics.  The  following  contribution  is  from 
a  lady  who  appears  to  have  given  some  attention  to  the  subject; 

315  Market  Street, 
Camden,  New  Jersey,  March  10, 1889. 
Editor  Minneapolis  Spectator: 

From  time  to  time,  in  taking  up  a  newspaper,  I  have  noticed  various 
comments  and  opinions  concerning  the  location  of  the  True  Source  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  on  Captain  Glazier's  claim  to  the  discovery  which 
removes  old  Itasca  from  the  prominent  position  she  has  held  so  long,  to 
give  place  to  a  more  potent,  although  smaller,  rival.  Apropos  of  this 
subject,  I  have  read  with  great  interest  a  recent  letter  in  the  Saint  Paul 
Dispatch,  setting  forth  very  convincingly,  to  my  mind,  the  validity  of 
Captain  Glazier's  claims,  and  making  his  position  unassailable,  except 
by  those  in  whom  a  certain  animus  is  not  wanting,  as  in  the  case  of  Mr. 
Fletcher  Williams,  Secretary  of  the  Historical  Society,  Saint  Paul,  whose 
weak  and  spasmodic  attacks  call  forth  my  indignation. 

The  only  concern  I  have  in  the  matter  springs  from  a  love  of  fair 
play,  which  is  an  instinct,  I  suppose,  common  to  most  of  us;  and  the 
interest  of  the  rising  generation,  the  "young  idea,'1  which  may  be  erro- 
neously led  to  "  shoot1'  in  the  wrong  direction,  when  in  three-fourths  of 
the  schools  the  pupils  are  taught  that  Itasca  must  give  place  to  Glazier, 
and  in  the  other  fourth,  not  that  there  is  no  Lake  Glazier,  but  that  it  is 
such  an  infant  as  yet  that  they  want  Itasca  to  hold  the  reins  a  few  years 
longer,  even  if  the  school  children  do  run  the  risk  of  not  giving  a  correct 
answer  to  the  question,  "What  is  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi?  "  Mr. 
Fletcher  Williams  would  evidently  like  to  ignore  Captain  Glazier's  claims 
if  he  could  do  so. 

Mr.  Williams !  as  the  secretary  of  the  State  Historical  Society,  you 
ought  to  be  above  using  scurrilous  language.  Let  Mr.  Williams  study 
up  his  subject  and  not  attack  a  man  whose  claims,  to  quote  one  of  our 
geographies,  "are  emphatically  supported  by  the  overwhelming  testi- 
mony of  hundreds  of  the  most  competent  and  distinguished  authorities 
in  the  Northwest,"  on  the  strength  of  the  disbelief  of  himself  and  three 
or  four  of  his  friends,  who  in  all  probability  have  never  seen  the  Source 
of  the  Mississippi.  If  it  is  so  easy,  as  Mr.  Williams  claims,  to  prove 
Captain  Glazier  in  error,  why  not  do  so?  If  it  is  not  worth  while  to  do 
so,  why  does  Mr.  Williams  enter  into  the  question  at  all?  Is  it  from  a 
weakness  for  casting  opprobrious  names  at  an  adversary  who  is  known 
to  thousands  to  be  worthy  only  of  respect? 

T  take  a  further  interest  in  the  question  from  having  been  one  of 
a  party  who  discussed  the  subject  in  the  Jamestown  public  schools 
some  few  years  ago.  We  read  everything  we  could  find  pertaining  to  it, 
from  Schoolcraft  to  Glazier,  and  unanimously  agreed  upon  giving  Captain 
Glazier  the  credit  of  the  discovery,  in  the  absence  of  well-supported 
denials  of  his  claim.  It  is  abundantly  clear  that  the  lake  claimed  by 
Captain  Glazier  was  entirely  unrecognized  by  the  geographical  world, 


464  APPENDIX. 

including  Messrs.  Schoolcraft  and  Nicollet,  up  to  the  year  1881,  the  date 
of  the  Glazier  expedition.  If  Mr.  Williams  has  determined  to  take  Lake 
Glazier  from  us,  what  will  he  substitute  as  the  true  source,  for  all 
geographers  and  historical  societies  agree  now  that  Itasca  has  had  its 
day,  and  can  never  more  gain  recognition  as  the  head  of  our  greatest 
river. 

Let  our  discoverer  have  his  laurels  and  wear  them  now,  not  waiting, 
as  many  of  our  great  explorers  have  done,  for  their  achievements  to  be 
blazoned  forth  only  after  death  has  claimed  them.  The  knowledge  that 
their  efforts  have  been  recognized  and  appreciated  in  this  life  is  far 
more  to  them  than  any  posthumous  honors  can  be.  That  Captain 
Glazier's  claims  will  be  universally  recognized  sooner  or  later  is  an 
axiom  that  can  not  be  gainsaid. 

Yours  for  the  right  and  fair  play, 

Mrs.  F.  K.  Hunt. 

A  New  Yorker  pays  his  respects  to  J.  V.  Brower,  and 
criticises  his  report  in  the  Pioneer  Press: 

New  York,  May  30,  1889. 
Editor  Winona  Republican,  Minnesota: 

I  have  just  noticed  in  one  of  your  Saint  Paul  contemporaries,  an 
article  with  the  singular  heading,  **  Lakes  like  Links  Secretly  Connect 
the  Plateau  Reservoir  with  the  Mississippi's  Apparent  Source.1' 

The  article  with  this  incomprehensible  heading  is  accompanied 
by  an  imperfect  and  very  inaccurate  map  of  the  Headwaters  of  the 
Missi  sippi.  The  writer— J.  V.  Brower,  I  p.  esume— as  usual,  affects  an 
authoritative  tone,  and  if  his  readers  allow  themselves  to  be  duped  by  his 
inflated  and  positive  style  of  treating  the  subject,  they  will  find  them- 
selves egregiously  in  error  in  the  matter  of  the  correct  location  of  the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi. 

As  was  observed  by  a  writer  in  a  late  issue  of  the  Saint  Paul  Dis- 
patch, this  person  was  altogether  unfitted  to  undertake  the  task  assigned 
him  by  certain  members  of  your  Historical  Society,  inasmuch  as  he 
had  predetermined,  at  any  cost,  to  deprive  Glazier  of  his  well-earned 
laurels.  The  report  now  before  me  is  all  fustian.  This  Lake  No.  3  is 
little  more  than  a  puddle,  having  no  permanent  connection  with  the 
Mississippi,  a  fact  he  would  soon  discover  if  he  went  out  there  in  July 
or  August;  whereas  the  stream  uniting  his  "Elk  "  Lake  and  Lake  Itasca 
is  perennial. 

The  dimensions  he  gives  of  No.  3  on  his  map  are  out  of  all  pro- 
portion to  its  real  size;  compared  with  the  Glazier  Source  it  is  simply 
an  insignificant  pond,  and  no  part  of  it  extends  farther  south  than 
the  lake  he  persists  in  calling  '  Elk  Lake  '—which  the  geographer 
designates  "  Lake  Glazier."  This  latter  body  of  water  covers  an  area  of 
255  acres,  whereas  Lake  No.  3— named  on  the  Glazier  map  "Wolf  Pond  M 
—is  less  than  30  acres  in  extent.  Again:  The  comparative  distances 
Brower  gives  between  the  two  lakes  (Glazier  and  No.  3)  and  Lake  Itasca, 
viz.,  8,315  feet  and  1,100  feet,  are  altogether  misleading;  but  this  is  a 


APPENDIX.  465 

matter  of  little  importance,  as  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake  Glazier 
extends  in  reality  considerably  farther  south  than  No.  3  (Wolf  Pond). 
Lake  Glazier  is  the  only  respectable  body  of  water  to  the  south  of 
Itasca  that  presents  a  shadow  of  claim  to  be  considered  the  Head  of  the 
Great  Eiver,  and  with  all  deference  to  the  Fletcher  Williams1  clique, 
it  will  be  held  to  be  the  True  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters  until  the 
next  cataclysm  deprives  us  of  the  Mississippi,  and  the  flourishing  city  of 
Saint  Paul  on  its  banks.  Gotham. 


30 


VOICE   OF  THE   PRESS. 

The  opposition  to  the  Glazier  claim  of  a  few  recalcitrant 
members  of  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society,  who  still 
persisted  in  their  adherence  to  the  Itasca  of  Schoolcraft,  had 
the  effect  of  inciting  inquiry  into  the  merits  and  authenticity 
of  the  important  discovery  that  Lake  Itasca  possessed  no  title 
whatever  to  the  distinction  so  long  conferred  upon  it,  of 
standing  at  the  Head  of  our  matchless  river.  Tlie  attention 
of  the  Press  throughout  this  country,  Canada,  and  Europe 
has,  since  1881,  been  frequently  occupied  with  the  question 
herein  discussed,  and  geographers  and  others  have  contributed 
to  it  their  views  on  the  subject,  in  which  the  general  belief 
prevails  that  Itasca  is  not  the  Source  of  the  river,  and  that  the 
fine  lake  to  the  south,  unknown  to  Schoolcraft  or  Nicollet,  or 
to  the  public,  until  located  by  the  First  Glazier  Expedition, 
is  the  Primal  Reservoir  or  Fountain-head  of  the  Mississippi. 
In  confirmation  of  this,  I  invite  attention  to  the  opinions  of 
the  Press  of  many  citks. 


Saint  Paul  Dispatch. 
".  .  .  We  are  glad  to  be  able  to  sustain  anew  the  legitimate  claims 
of  this  brave  and  adventurous  man.  We  believe  that,  had  he  lived  in  the 
times  when  heroism  of  the  grandest  type  was  an  essential  to  the  conduct 
of  Mississippi  exploration,  he  would  not  have  been  found  wanting  in  the 
qualities  which,  in  those  days,  did  so  much  to  aid  one's  faith  in  the 
innate  grandeur  of  human  character.  .  .  .  Captain  Glazier  set  out  to 
test  the  correctness  of  the  generally  accepted  theories  of  scholars  as  to 
the  place  of  the  rise  of  the  Mississippi  River;  he  made  the  test,  and  found 
that  those  theories  were  not  correct.  He  has  given  to  the  world  the 
record  of  his  discovery,  and,  if  we  are  not  wholly  at  fault,  he  has  done 
much  to  perpetuate  his  own  name  thereby.'" 


Northwestern  Presbyterian,  Minneapolis. 
"All  who  live  in  the  valley  of  America's  greatest  river  will   be 
especially  interested  in  knowing  something  of  its  Source,  its  course,  and 
the  cities  that  line  its  banks.    Since  De  Soto  first  discovered  the  Father 

(466) 


APPENDIX.  467 

of  Waters,  in  1541,  many  eminent  explorers  have  been  associated  with  its 
history.  Marquette,  Joliet,  La  Salle,  Hennepin,  La  Hontan,  Charlevoix, 
Carver,  Pike,  Cass,  and  Beltrami  preceded  Schoolcraft.  The  last  named 
discovered  a  lake  which  he  supposed  to  be  the  Source,  but  the  Indians 
and  the  missionaries  said  there  was  a  lake  beyond.  A  learned  few 
believed  them.  It  remained  for  some  explorer  to  make  further  investi- 
gation, and  publish  the  truth  more  widely  to  the  world.  This  was  done 
by  Captain  Glazier,  in  1881,  who  visited  the  lake,  explored  its  shores,  and 
found  it  to  be  wider  and  deeper  than  Itasca.1' 

Saint  Paul  Times. 
".  .  .  Captain  Glazier's  claims  are  supported  emphatically  by  the 
overwhelming  testimony  of  thousands  of  the  most  distinguished  and 
competent  authorities  in  the  Northwest.  Glazier  undoubtedly  expended 
much  time  and  treasure  in  investigating  not  only  the  Source  of  the 
Mississippi,  but  the  geography  and  history  of  the  entire  river,  from  its 
Source  to  the  Gulf.  .  .  .  The  leading  map  publishers  have  indorsed 
his  claims,  and  do  so  in  a  way  that  leaves  no  doubt  that  they  place 
implicit  confidence  in  him  as  a  careful  and  trustworthy  geographer  and 
historian.  Rand,  McNally  &  Co.  and  George  F.  Cram  of  Chicago; 
Matthews,  Northrup  &  Co.  of  Buffalo;  A.  S.  Barnes  &  Co.  of  New  York; 
University  Publishing  Company  of  New  York;  W.  &  A.  K.  Johnston  of 
Edinburgh,  Scotland;  MacMillan  &  Co.,  London  and  New  York;  W.  M. 
Bradley  &  Brother,  Philadelphia,  and  many  others  of  the  leading  pub- 
lishing houses,  who  have  a  heavy  personal  interest  in  investigating  the 
accuracy  of  everything  they  publish,  acknowledge  Captain  Glazier's 
claims  by  accepting  his  views,  and  reproducing  them  in  their  books  and 
maps.  The  press,  bar,  pulpit,  and  Legislature  of  the  State  of  Minnesota 
give  assent,  through  many  of  their  leading  members,  to  the  position  of 
Captain  Glazier." 


Chicago  Times. 
'•  The  most  interesting  portion  of  Captain  Glazier's  '  Down  the  Great 
River '  is  the  beginning,  where  the  author  gives  the  details  of  an  expedi- 
tion made,  in  1881,  by  himself  with  five  companions,  when  he  claims,  with 
good  grounds,  to  have  fixed  the  actual  True  Source  of  the  Great  River. 
His  attention  was  called,  in  1876,  to  the  fact  that,  though  everybody 
knows  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  there  was  then  much  uncertainty  about 
the  Source.  In  1881,  he  found  time  to  organize  the  expedition  named,  and 
crossing  the  country  to  Itasca,  embarked  and  pushed  through  that  lake 
up  a  stream  flowing  into  it,  and  came  upon  another  considerable  body  of 
water  fed  by  three  streams  originating  in  springs  at  the  foot  of  a 
curved  range  of  hills  some  miles  farther  on.  This  lake  he  fixed  upon  as 
the  True  Source,  and  since  his  published  accounts  many  geographers 
and  map  workers  have  modified  their  works  according  to  his  discoveries. 
He  claims  to  have  been  the  first  to  discover  and  establish  the  fact  that  it 
is  the  highest  link  in  a  chain  in  which  Itasca  is  another;  or,  in  other 
words,  the  True  Source  of  the  river.  The  Indian  name  of  the  lake  is 
Pokegama,  and  this,  the  author  says,  he  would  have  retained,  but  was 


468  APPENDIX. 

overruled  by  the  other  five,  who  insisted  on  calling  it  Lake  Glazier. 
For  the  particulars  of  the  interesting  story  the  reader  must  be  referred 
to  the  volume  itself.  Captain  Glazier  is  an  old  traveler  and  a  practiced 
writer.  The  manner  of  his  journey  down  the  Mississippi  enabled  him  to 
see  well  all  there  was  to  see,  and  he  enables  his  readers  to  see  also.11 


Chicago  Herald. 

"  For  half  a  century  or  more  it  has  been  understood  that  Lake  Itasca 
was  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River,  but  Captain  Willard  Glazier  has 
exploded  this  theory  by  a  canoe  voyage  undertaken  in  1881.  The  results 
of  his  investigations  were  given  to  geographers  at  the  time  and  accepted 
as  satisfactory  and  complete.  Maps  were  at  once  changed  by  the  map 
publishers,  and  Lake  Glazier,  a  tributary  of  Lake  Itasca,  was  set  down 
as  the  True  Source  of  the  '  Father  of  Waters.1  The  story  of  Captain 
Glazier's  adventures  is  told  by  him  in  a  book  entitled  '  Down  the  Great 
River,1  which  is  entertaining  as  well  as  being  of  importance  as  a  con- 
tribution to  the  geography  and  history  of  this  country.  Together  with 
two  companions  and  several  guides,  Glazier  first  discovered  that  the  lake 
now  bearing  his  name  was  the  True  Source  of  the  Great  River,  and  then 
journeyed  by  canoe  from  that  point  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  a 
distance  of  3,184  miles.11 


Chicago  Inter  Ocean. 
"  Readers  of  '  Soldiers  of  the  Saddle,1  '  Capture,  Prison-Pen,  and 
Escape,1  and  other  writings  of  Captain  Glazier,  will  require  no  urging  to 
read  the  entertaining  volume  '  Down  the  Great  River.1  It  is  an  account 
of  the  discovery  of  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River,  with  pic- 
torial and  descriptive  views  of  cities,  towns,  and  scenery  gathered  from  a 
canoe  voyage  from  its  Headwaters  to  the  Gulf.  For  fifty  years  Ameri- 
can youth  have  been  taught  that  '  the  Mississippi  rises  in  Lake  Itasca,1 
until  Captain  Glazier,  in  this  memorable  journey  of  one  hundred  and  sev- 
enteen days  in  his  canoe  demonstrated  the  error,  and  mapped  the  facts 
so  accurately  as  to  settle  the  question  for  all  time.  Leading  geographers 
and  educational  publishers  have  already  made  changes  in  their  maps,  and 
given  due  credit  to  Captain  Glazier  and  his  new  lake.  To  say  the  Mis- 
sissippi rises  in  Lake  Glazier  is  only  doing  simple  justice  to  the  intrepid 
explorer,  and  hero  of  many  battles.1* 

Chicago  Evening  Journal. 
"  However  the  knowledge  may  affect  the  world  at  large  that  the 
Source  of  the  mighty  Mississippi  is  other  than  generations  of  geography 
students  have  been  taught  that  it  was,  there  is  little  doubt  left  that  we 
have  all  been  in  the  wrong  about  it,  and  that  this  most  peerless  river 
was  born,  not  in  Itasca's  sparkling  springs,  but  in  another  wider  and 
deeper  body  of  water  that  lies  still  farther  south  and  bears  the  name  of 
its  discoverer— Lake  Glazier.    .    .    ." 


Detroit  Commercial  Advertiser. 
Captain  Glazier  undoubtedly  accomplished  a  great  work. 


APPENDIX.  469 

The  source  of  the  Mississippi  had  ever  been  an  unsettled  question, 
unsatisfactory  attempts  at  discovery  having  been  made  and  various  ill- 
founded  claims  put  forward;  but  the  subject  for  the  last  half  century 
has  been  constantly  agitated.  It  remained  for  Captain  Glazier  to  finish 
the  work  begun  byDe  Soto  in  1541,  and  positively  locate  the  True  Fount- 
ain-head. .  .  .  That  the  lake  from  which  the  Great  River  starts, 
known  by  the  Indians  as  Lake  Pokegama,  should  be  re-named  Lake 
Glazier,  seems  an  appropriate  honor  for  the  resolute  explorer.    .    .  -  . " 

New  York  Students'  Journal. 
"...  Captain  Willard  Glazier  discovered  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi  River.  This  discovery  is  one  of  the  most  important  contribu- 
tions to  the  geography  of  this  country  during  the  past  half  century. 
It  seems  marvelous  that,  up  to  the  year  1881,  the  geography  of  one  of 
the  States  of  the  Union  was  so  poorly  known  that  it  had  hitherto  been 
supposed  that  Lake  Itasca  was  the  Source  of  the  great  Father  of 
Waters.11 


Brooklyn  Eagle. 
"  Captain  Glazier's  very  clear  map  of  the  Great  River  shows  the  True 
Source  to  be  south  of  Lake  Itasca— accepted  by  Schoolcraft  in  1832  as  the 
Headwaters,  in  disregard  of  the  stream  entering  its  southwestern  arm. 
.  .  .  To  Captain  Glazier  belongs  the  identification  of  the  Fountain- 
head  of  the  Mississippi.11 


Popular  Science  Monthly. 
"In  'Down  the  Great  River,1  Captain  Glazier  relates  the  story  in  full 
of  his  journey  in  1881,  by  the  aid  of  an  Indian  guide,  'across  country,1 
from  Brainerd,  Minnesota,  to  'Lake  Glazier,1  south  of  Itasca  Lake,  and 
his  determination  of  it  as  the  real  source  of  the  Mississippi  River.  .  .  . 
Lake  Glazier  is  in  latitude  about  47°  N.,  is  1,585  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  and  is  3,184  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Its  area  is  less  than 
that  of  Lake  Itasca,  but  it  is  deeper  and  contains  more  water  than 
the  latter.  .  .  .  The  story  of  the  explorers  journey  is  very  pleasantly 
narrated.11 


Philadelphia  Dispatch. 
"...  In  1832,  Henry  Ro we  Schoolcraft  reached  Lake  Itasca,  but 
failed  to  search  for  its  feeders,  and  thus  missed  the  discovery  of  the  True 
Source  of  the  Mississippi.  Jean  Nicolas  Nicollet  reached  the  same  point 
four  years  later,  and  was  satisfied  that  his  journey  was  successfully  con- 
cluded. Nothing  further  was  done  for  forty-five  years,  during  which 
time  it  was  believed  that  Lake  Itasca  was  the  Source;  but  Captain  Gla- 
zier pushed  his  explorations  farther,  and,  by  following  a  feeder  of  Lake 
Itasca,  was  rewarded  by  discovering,  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  a  beautiful 
body  of  water  a  mile  and  a  half  wide.  This  was  the  True  Source.  His 
labors  were  promptly  recognized  by  various  learned  societies  and  by 
scientists  and  geographers,  and  to-day  the  lake,  which  bears  the  name 
of  the  discoverer,  is  acknowledged  to  be  the  Primal  Reservoir  of  the 
Great  River.11 


470  APPENDIX. 

Grand  Rapids  Telegram-Herald. 
"  .  .,  Captain  Glazier,  in  his  search  for  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi,  has  corrected  a  geographical  error  of  half  a  century,  and 
located  the  fountain-head  in  a  lake  above  and  beyond  Lake  Itasca.  He 
discovered  this  lake  on  the  twenty-second  day  of  July,  1881,  Chenowage- 
sic,  a  Chippewa  brave,  being  his  guide.  The  lake,  out  of  which  flows 
the  infant  Mississippi,  is  about  two  miles  in  its  greatest  diameter.  Its 
Indian  name  is  Pokegama,  but  Glazier's  companions  insisted  on  naming 
it  after  their  leader.    ..." 

Albany  Argus. 
"  Readers  of  newspapers  are  doubtless  familiar  with  the  controversy 
as  to  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  Captain  Willard  Glazier,  known 
as  the  writer  of  a  number  of  popular  works,  made  an  expedition,  in  1881, 
in  search  of  the  starting  point  of  the  Great  River.  Reaching  Brainerd, 
on  the  Mississippi,  he  crossed  the  country  to  Leech  Lake.  Here,  on  July 
17th,  he  launched  his  canoes  and  paddled  through  the  Portage  River  and  a 
chain  of  lakes  lying  to  the  west  of  Leech  Lake.  With  a  few  detours  he 
came  to  Lake  Itasca,  which  had  heretofore  been  popularly  accepted  as 
the  source  of  the  river.  Coasting  around  this  for  tributaries,  he  found  a 
creek  due  south  which  connected  with  a  beautiful  lake  about  two  miles 
in  diameter.  ...  As  this  seemed  to  meet  the  geographical  require- 
ments, being  the  most  distant  portion  of  tributary  water  from  the  mouth, 
it  was  pronounced  to  be  the  Source,  and  the  Indian  name,  Pokegama, 
changed  to  Lake  Glazier  by  the  companions  of  the  explorer." 


Boston  Traveler. 
"In  1881  Captain  Willard  Glazier  determined  to  test  his  theory,  and 
that  of  several  other  geographers,  that  Lake  Itasca  was  not  the  real 
source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  undertook  an  expedition  fraught  with 
innumerable  difficulties,  but  successful  in  establishing  the  correctness  of 
his  belief.  For  beyond  Lake  Itasca,  and  connected  with  it  by  a  stream, 
he  found  another  lake  nearly  as  large  as  Itasca,  and  which  proved  to  bs 
the  True  Source  of  the  Great  River." 


Boston  Commonwealth. 
"  Captain  Willard  Glazier,  whose  writings  are  so  widely  and  favorably 
known,  achieved  probably  the  most  lasting  reputation  in  1881,  when  he 
made  his  expedition  to  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  The  results  of  that 
expedition  he  has  put  in  a  book.  Starting  from  Saint  Paul  on  the  4th  of 
July,  1881,  equipped  with  canoes  and  accompanied  by  Indian  guides,  he 
set  forth  with  the  object  of  ascertaining  if  Lake  Itasca  were  really  the 
source  of  the  '  Father  of  Waters,'  as  had  been  so  long  supposed.  He 
reached  Lake  Itasca,  and  after  a  careful  examination  of  this  lake,  discov- 
ered that  it  was  not  the  head  of  the  river,  but  that  there  was  a  lake  still 
higher  up,  to  which  he  pushed  on  with  his  canoes  through  a  narrow  inlet. 
This  lake  has  since  been  known  by  the  name  of  its  discoverer,  '  Lake 
Glazier,'  and  has  been  accepted  by  geographical  authorities  as  in  reality 
the  True  Source  of  the  great  American  River." 


APPENDIX.  471 

Philadelphia  Evening  Telegraph. 

"  It  appears  quite  clear  that  Lake  Itasca  never  possessed  any  title  to 
the  honor  conferred  upon  it  by  Schoolcraft,  in  1832,  of  giving  birth  to 
our  magnificent  river.  One  reason  alone  is  given  to  account  for  our 
ignorance  of  its  True  Source,  namely,  it  was  outside  the  usual  track  of 
the  fur  traders,  and  in  a  region  scarcely  ever  visited  by  Indians  or  white 
men.  Schoolcraft  had  pronounced  Itasca  to  be  the  Source,  and  no 
one  up  to  the  date  of  Captain  Glazier's  explorations  felt  sufficiently 
interested  in  the  matter  to  investigate  or  dispute  its  claim.    .    .    . 

"It  was  long  suspected  that  the  Mississippi  had  its  Fountain-head 
higher  up  than  Lake  Itasca,  and  in  July,  1881,  an  Expedition  led  by  Cap- 
tain Willard  Glazier  discovered  a  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  a  mile  and 
a  half  in  diameter,  and  falling  into  the  latter  by  a  permanent  stream. 
Beyond  this  there  is  no  water  connected  with  the  river,  and  hence  Lake 
Glazier  is  now  recognized  as  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.1' 


Chicago  Geographical  News. 

".  .  .  The  real  facts  in  the  case  are  that  all  the  investigations 
made  since  Captain  Glazier's  discovery  tend  to  show  very  conclusively 
that  the  True  Source  of  the  river  is  in  the  lake  lying  a  short  distance 
south  of  Itasca;  and  that  Glazier  was  the  first  who  discovered  and  pro- 
claimed the  Source  to  be  in  that  lake.  This  being  the  case,  it  seems  but 
just  that  the  honor  of  the  discovery  should  be  no  longer  withheld  from 
him.  At  all  events,  our  school  geographies  should  teach  the  truth  as  to 
where  the  Source  really  is." 

The  Buffalo  Times. 
".  .  .  The  source  of  the  Great  River  has  been  sought  for  at  dif- 
ferent times  by  travelers  of  nearly  every  nationality.  In  1805,  the  United 
States  Government  sent  Lieutenant  Pike  to  explore  the  region  in  which 
the  Mississippi  was  supposed  to  have  its  origin;  and  in  1820,  Governor 
Cass  of  Michigan  undertook  a  similar  task;  but  they  were  unsuccessful  in 
their  attempts  to  trace  the  river  to  its  origin,  for  its  True  Source  remained 
still  unknown.  In  1832,  Henry  Howe  Schoolcraft  explored  Lake  Itasca, 
which  he  regarded  as  the  Head  of  the  great  stream.  It  had  long  been 
suspected,  however,  that  the  Mississippi  had  its  Fountain-head  higher  up 
than  Lake  Itasca;  and  in  July,  1881,  an  Expedition,  led  by  Captain  Will- 
ard Glazier,  discovered  a  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  nearly  two  miles  in 
diameter  and  forty-five  feet  deep,  falling  into  Itasca  by  a  permanent 
stream.  Lake  Glazier  is  now  generally  recognized  as  the  source  of  our 
^reat  midland  stream." 


Cleveland  Leader. 
"Captain  Glazier  has  added  to  his  long  and  varied  experiences  the 
discovery  of  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  He  found  it  in  a  hith- 
erto unrecognized  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca.  ...  He  started  with  his 
brother  and  one  or  two  other  white  men,  and  having  arrived  at  Leech 
Lake,  obtained  birch-bark  canoes,  and  one  or  two  Indians,  and  set  out  in 
search  of  the  Source.    Having  reached  Lake  Itasca,  the  lake  which  has 


4W  Ai>t>£KDt£. 

heretofore  been  regarded  as  the  Source,  he  resolved  upon  a  thorough 
exploration  of  the  adjacent  regions.  The  outlets  of  six  small  streams 
were  found  in  Itasca.  Trusting  to  an  Indian  guide,  they  entered  the 
largest  one,  and  followed  it  along  some  distance.  After  paddling  for 
some  time,  another  lake  was  found,  and  christened  by  the  party  '  Lake 
Glazier— the  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters.1  This  lake  is  nearly  two 
miles  in  diameter  and  forty -five  feet  deep.    .    .    ." 


Indianapolis  Journal. 
" .  .  .  In  1881,  Captain  Glazier,  having  doubts  of  the  accuracy  of 
previous  explorations  at  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  set  out  to 
verify  them,  or  to  discover,  himself,  the  True  Source  of  the  Great 
River.  This  he  did,  after  an  interesting  and  remarkable  overland 
journey  through  the  wilds  of  Northern  Minnesota.  He  discovered  and 
demonstrated  that  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  is  not  Lake  Itasca, 
as  had  been  long  claimed,  but  a  lake  to  the  south  of  that  and  emptying 
into  it,  which  he  located,  and  it  has  since  been  named  Lake  Glazier  in 
honor  of  the  discoverer.    .    .    ." 


National  Republican,  Washington,  D.  C. 
" .  .  .  The  birthplace  of  the  Father  of  Waters  is  not  Lake  Itasca, 
as  generally  received,  but  Lake  Glazier,  in  its  vicinity,  which,  by  a 
small  stream,  flows  into  Itasca.  Lake  Glazier,  so  named  from  its  dis- 
coverer, Captain  Willard  Glazier,  has  three  feeders,  Eagle,  Excelsior, 
and  Deer  creeks.  This  latest  geographical  claim  is  supported  by  ample 
testimony  from  highest  and  wide-spread  authorities." 

Ohio  State  Journal. 
"  It  seems  strange  that  for  nearly  fifty  years,  up  to  1881,  no  new  thing 
had  been  discovered  concerning  the  great  Mississippi,  whose  Source  in 
the  vast  wilderness  cf  the  Northwest  was  supposed  to  be  in  Lake  Itasca. 
In  that  year,  however,  Captain  Willard  Glazier,  an  adventurous  spirit, 
determined  to  finally  solve  the  mystery  of  the  Source  of  the  4  Father  of 
Waters,1  and  also  to  navigate  its  entire  length  from  Source  to  Sea. 
Accordingly,  he  traced  with  infinite  hardship  the  narrowing  stream 
above  Itasca  until  its  True  Source  was  finally  reached  in  what  is  now 
known  as  Lake  Glazier.11 

Philadelphia  Public  Ledger. 
"By  the  discoveries  of  Captain  Willard  Glazier,  made  in  1881,  Lake 
Itasca  is  dislodged  from  its  former  eminence  as  the  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, the  real  Headwaters  of  that  mighty  stream  being  traced  to  Lake 
Glazier,  a  distance  of  3,184  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.11 


The  Wheeling  Intelligencer. 
"  Until  this  journey  was  made,  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  was 
universally  placed  in  Lake  Itasca,  whereas  Glazier  and  his  party  demon- 


strated  that  a  higher  basin,  now  put  down  in  all  the  new  maps  and  geog- 
raphies as  Lake  Glazier,  is  really  the  Primary  Reservoir  of  the 
Mississippi.  It  seems  almost  incredible,  but  is  nevertheless  true,  that 
for  over  forty  years  previous  to  1881,  when  Captain  Glazier  made  his 
discovery,  it  was  accepted  as  settled  that  Lake  Itasca  was  the  remotest 
body  of  water  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi.  The  falsity  of  this 
theory,  however,  has  been  established,  and  an  important  discovery  given 
to  the  geographical  w^rld.  No  discovery  rivaling  this  in  interest  and 
importance  has  been  made  on  the  American  continent  for  half  a 
century.11 


New  York  Christian  Nation. 
"  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  was  not 
known  until  1881,  but  was  erroneously  supposed  to  take  its  rise  in  Lake 
Itasca,  until  that  well-known  traveler  and  popular  writer,  Captain 
Willard  Glazier,  took  it  into  his  head  that  the  first  end  of  the  long  river 
was  not  really  known.  And  as  Columbus  resolved  to  discover  a  new 
world,  so  Captain  Glazier  determined  to  find  the  real  Source  of  the 
Mississippi.  He  set  forth  in  the  month  of  May,  1881,  from  New  York  to 
the  'far  West,'  to  put  his  long-cherished  theory  to  the  test,  and  with 
what  result  the  world  was  made  acquainted  at  the  time  by  the  public 
press.  Many  men  have  worked  and  schemed  for  years  to  gain  fame,  but 
Captain  Glazier,  in  the  heroic  discharge  of  a  self-imposed  duty,  in  117 
days  made  his  name  immortal.11 

Philadelphia  Inquirer. 
"Several  years  ago  Captain  Glazier,  while  meditating  upon  the 
exploits  of  De  Soto,  Marquette,  Father  Hennepin,  and  La  Salle,  the  heroic 
old  explorers,  who  led  the  way  to  the  Great  River  of  North  America, 
regretted  that  although  its  mouth  was  discovered  by  the  Chevalier  La 
Salle  nearly  two  hundred  years  ago,  there  was  still  much  uncertainty 
as  to  its  True  Source.  .  .  .  The  discovery  and  final  location  of  the 
source  of  the  Mississippi  has  now  received  general  recognition  in  this 
country  and  Europe,  and  there  certainly  seems  to  be  no  doubt  of  the 
validity  of  Captain  Glazier's  claim.  His  account  of  the  discovery  is 
very  entertaining  reading." 

Burlington  Hawheye. 
"In  the  summer  of  1881,  Captain  Willard  Glazier,  well  known  as  a 
popular  writer,  made  a  remarkable  canoe  voyage  from  the  Source  of  the 
Mississippi  down  its  entire  length  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Prior  to  start- 
ing on  this  unprecedented  voyage,  he  organized  and  led  an  expedition  to 
the  Headwaters  of  the  river  in  Northern  Minnesota,  with  a  view  of  set- 
ting at  rest  the  vexed  question  as  to  the  True  Source  of  the  mighty  river. 
Captain  Glazier  and  his  party  left  Saint  Paul,  duly  equipped  with  canoes 
and  commissariat,  July  fourth,  1881,  and  arrived  at  Lake  Itasca  July 
twenty-first.  Thence,  by  the  aid  of  his  Indian  guides,  he  penetrated  to 
another  lake  beyond  Itasca,  and  connected  therewith  by  a  stream  which 
is  a  continuation  of  the  Mississippi,  and  at  that  point  is  simply  a  narrow 


4?4  Appendix. 

creek.  The  lake  thus  entered  by  Captain  Glazier  is  the  True  Source  of 
the  Father  of  Waters.  Lake  Glazier  now  appears  on  the  maps  as  the 
source  of  the  Great  River.11 

Camden  Post. 
".  .  .  Starting  for  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  in  July,  1881, 
Captain  Glazier  tells  us  iu  the  narrative  of  his  journey  that  he  learned 
that  the  dense  forests  which  surround  the  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters 
were  rarely  penetrated  by  white  men,  or  even  by  Indians  except  in  the 
pursuit  of  game  in  the  winter.  He  also  learned  through  his  Indian  guides 
and  interpreter  that  the  inhabitants  of  these  primeval  forests  did  not 
regard  Itasca  as  the  Source  of  May-see-see-bee,  but  that  another  lake, 
broad,  deep,  and  beautiful,  which  lay  above  Itasca,  and  poured  its  clear 
waters  into  that  lake,  was  the  true  head  of  the  river.  The  Captain 
determined  to  thoroughly  examine  all  this  region,  and  to  settle  forever 
the  question  of  the  veritable  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  In  accordance 
with  this  design,  he  at  length,  after  many  difficulties,  found  himself  on 
Schoolcraft  Island  in  the  center  of  Lake  Itasca,  and  after  a  nighfs  rest 
directed  operations  toward  the  lakes  and  streams  of  the  surrounding 
country.  He  examined  the  shores  of  Itasca  for  tributary  streams,  find- 
ing but  two  of  any  importance.  Of  these,  the  largest  came  in  at  the 
extreme  head  of  the  lake,  the  mouth  of  which  was  filled  with  bulrushes. 
Taking  two  canoes,  he  and  his  party  ascended  this  stream.  Following 
the  windings,  and  pushing  through  the  obstructions,  the  canoes  suddenly 
glided  out  upon  the  still  surface  of  a  comparatively  large  lake,  clear  as 
crystal,  with  pebbly  bottom,  and  shores  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of 
pine.  The  greatest  length  of  this  lake  is  about  two  miles  and  its  width 
a  mile  and  a  half.  Captain  Glazier,  f eeling  thoroughly  convinced  that 
this  fine  body  of  water  was  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  proclaimed 
it  as  such,  and  his  companions  decided  unanimously  to  name  it  Lake 
Glazier  in  honor  of  their  leader.  One  of  the  party  was  an  attache  of  the 
Saint  Paul  Pioneer  Press,  and  this  gentleman  dispatched  an  account  of 
the  discovery  to  his  paper.  Since  that  period,  the  newly  discovered 
Source  has  engaged  the  attention  of  the  press  throughout  the  country, 
which,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  has  unqualifiedly  accepted  Captain 
Glazier's  account,  and  given  him  the  credit  due;  and  the  maps  of 
Minnesota  now  show  Lake  Glazier  instead  of  Lake  Itasca  as  the 
Source  of  the  Great  River.    .    .    ." 


Pittsburg  Press. 
".  .  .  The  mystery  which  surrounded  the  regions  of  Lake  Itasca, 
the  accepted  Source  for  nearly  fifty  years,  and  the  paucity  of  informa- 
tion concerning  the  lake,  were  sufficient  incentives  to  lead  Captain  Gla- 
zier, in  1881,  to  organize  an  Expedition  to  carry  the  exploration  farther 
than  had  been  done  by  any  previous  explorer.  It  resulted  in  a  complete 
success,  as  he  not  only  succeeded  in  reaching  Lake  Itasca,  but,  following 
the  lead  of  an  Indian  guide,  he  made  the  discovery  that  there  was  still 
another  lake  above  Itasca,  and  connected  therewith  by  a  permanently 
flowing  stream— the  Infant  Mississippi.    This  lake  was  the  real  Source 


APPENDIX.  475 

of  the  river,  and  was  named  •  Glazier '  in  honor  of  the  man  who  had 
planned  and  led  the  expedition.  It  has  been  so  placed  on  maps  issued  by- 
educational  houses,  not  only  in  this  country,  but  also  in  Canada  and 
Europe.    .    .    ." 

New  York  Observer. 
".  .  .  To  Captain  Glazier  is  undoubtedly  due  the  honor  of  tracing 
the  Father  of  Waters,  the  great  American  river,  up  to  its  True  Source  in 
the  network  of  lakes  that  occupies  the  northern  portion  of  the  State  of 
Minnesota,  a  task  attended  with  more  difficulties  and  embarrassments 
than  it  might  appear  to  involve  to  the  careless  observer.    .    .    ." 


Minneapolis  Star  News. 

".  .  .  On  the  22d  day  of  July,  1881,  the  traveler  and  author, 
Captain  Willard  Glazier,  discovered  a  silvery  lake  nestled  among  the 
pines  of  Northern  Minnesota,  and  situate  to  the  south  of  Itasca.  He 
also  discovered  that  a  swift  current  flowed  continuously  from  his  new- 
found wonder  to  what  was  supposed  to  be  the  Source  of  the  Father  of 
Waters.  Further  investigation  revealed  the  fact  that  the  lake  he  had 
discovered  was  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  The  lake  is  known 
to  the  Indians  as  Pokegama—1  the  Place  where  the  Waters  Gather.' 

"...  Captain  Glazier  was  induced  to  explore  the  Headwaters  of 
the  Mississippi  by  Indian  tradition,  which  denied  Schoolcraft's  theory  of 
Itasca.  In  the  early  part  of  Glazier's  expedition  he  met  Paul  Beaulieu, 
the  veteran  interpreter  at  the  Leech  Lake  Government  Agency,  who  told 
him  that  Schoolcraft  was  in  error.  Fortified  with  this  idea,  he  set  out 
to  discover  the  Time  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters.  ...  To  Cap- 
tain Glazier  is  due  all  the  glory  and  honor  of  discovering  to  modern  geog- 
raphers the  True  Head  of  our  Great  River." 


Philadelphia  Times. 
"  If  one  has  labored  under  the  impression  that  at  this  late  date  in  our 
history  every  nook  and  corner  of  the  United  States  has  been  discovered 
and  mapped  by  enterprising  explorers,  it  now  seems  conclusive  that  one 
has  been  mistaken.  Captain  Willard  Glazier  has  discovered  the  True 
Source  of  the  Mississippi,  which  is  not,  as  we  have  been  led  to  believe 
from  our  boyhood,  in  Lake  Itasca,  but  in  another  lake  to  the  south  of  it. 
Unlike  Mr.  Donnelly  in  his  attempt  to  dethrone  Shakespeare,  he  suc- 
ceeds in  proving  his  theory  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  most  competent 
judges,  to  wit,  the  geographers  and  educational  publishers  of  the 
country.  These  accept  the  new  Source  by  placing  it  on  their  maps  and 
calling  it  after  the  discoverer, 'Lake  Glazier.'    .    .    ." 


Boston  Beacon. 
"On  July  22,  1881,  Captain  Willard  Glazier  discovered  what  is  now 
known  to  be  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  in  a  lake  beyond  Itasca, 
about  six  miles  in  circumference,  which,  by  the  expedition  accompany- 
ing him,  was  given  his  name,  and  so,  after  half  a  century,  the  origin  of 
the  Father  of  Waters  is  at  length  settled  beyond  a  doubt.    .    .    ." 


4?6  APPENDIX. 


Portland  Express. 

".  .  .  Captain  Glazier  and  the  members  of  his  Expedition  went 
in  search  of  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  The  expedition  exploded 
the  long-held  theory  that  Lake  Itasca  was  the  Source  of  the  Father  of 
Waters,  and  its  True  Source  was  discovered  and  accurately  located.  As 
a  result  of  the  discoveries  made  by  Captain  Glazier,  all  the  atlases, 
geographies,  and  encyclopaedias  marked  the  change  of  the  Mississippi's 
Source,  and  although  the  discoveries  were  not  credited  for  a  time,  their 
accuracy  has  since  been  established  with  the  above  results.    .    .    .*' 


Troy  Budget. 

".  .  .  Probably  nothing  has  done  more  to  establish  Captain  Gla- 
zier's reputation  than  his  explorations  at  the  Headwaters  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. Different  travelers,  of  world-wide  fame,  had  fixed  upon  different 
lakes  as  the  Source  of  this  'Father  of  Waters,' and  geographers  and 
map  makers  had  for  years  regarded  the  matter  as  settled,  and  recorded 
Lake  Itasca,  on  the  authority  of  Schoolcraft,  as  the  sought-for  Source. 
Led  by  the  whisperings  of  Indian  traditions,  that  told  of  other  lakes, 
still  farther  on,  Captain  Glazier  determined  to  test  the  accuracy  of  these 
shadowy  reports.  His  persistence  was  amply  rewarded.  He  has  turned 
anew  leaf  in  the  geography  of  that  region,  which  neither  the  jealousy 
of  rival  interests  nor  the  torsion  of  adverse  criticism  has  been  able  to 
turn  backward.  The  water  which  he  discovered,  and  which  his  com- 
panions very  appropriately  called  Lake  Glazier,  has  become  historic.  It 
has  been  adopted  by  the  best  geographers  and  by  the  best  map  makers 
as  a  final  settlement  of  the  question  of  the  actual  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi River.    .     .    ,M 


The  foregoing  will  probably  be  sufficient  evidence  to 
the  reader  that  the  "Voice  of  the  Press"  was  distinctly 
heard  in  support  of  the  discovery  of  1881,  and  in  justifi- 
cation of  the  man  who  possessed  the  moral  courage  to 
question  a  popular,  but  groundless,  theory,  and  the  pluck 
to  overthrow  it,  in  the  face  of  contumely,  insult,  and  mean 
detraction  of  interested  and  prejudiced  pseudo-scientists. 
Barely  one-third  of  the  press  articles  in  my  possession,  all 
in  support  of  the  Glazier   claim,  are  given,  but  quantum 


E. 

CORRESPONDENCE  RELATING  TO  SECOND  EXPEDITION. 

The  Second  Glazier  Expedition  lo  the  Headwaters  of  the 
Mississippi  was  undertaken  in  August  a:id  September,  1S91, 
and  some  of  the  correspondence  that  preceded  it  is  here  given. 
The  object  of  this  second  visit  is  plainly  indicated  in  the 
following  letter  addressed  by  Captain  Glazier  to  the  Secretary 
of  the  Wisconsin  Historical  Society,  Madison.  Letters  of 
similar  tenor  were  also  sent  to  several  gentlemen,  including 
scientists,  secretaries  of  geographical  societies,  heads  of  col- 
leges, and  others  who,  it  was  thought,  from  their  position  in 
the  literary  and  scientific  world,  would  naturally  be  interested 
in  the  solution  of  an  important  geographical  question  which 
had  attracted  so  much  attention.  To  all  of  these  letters  cour- 
teous responses  were  received,  the  result  being  that  some 
accepted  the  invitation,  while  more  were  unable  to  spare  the 
necessary  time  from  their  business  aud  professional  occupa- 
tions. All,  however,  wrote  encouragingly,  and  expressed 
their  approval  of  the  proposed  plan  of  another  and  final 
effort  to  establish  the  truth  as  to  the  real  Source  of  the  Great 
River. 

447  Jackson  Street, 

Milwaukee,  Wisconsin, 

June  24,  1891. 
The  Secretary,  State  Historical  Society,  Madison,  Wisconsin. 

Dear  Sir:  Having  concluded  to  re- visit  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, accompanied  by  a  few  gentlemen  interested  in  the  topography 
of  that  region,  I  take  the  liberty  of  informing  you  of  my  purpose  I 
may  explain  that  my  object  in  making  this  second  journey  is  not  to 
seek  confirmation  of  my  published  statements  on  the  subject  of  the  True 
Source  of  our  Great  River,  for  upon  this  question  I  am  so  thoroughly 
satisfied  of  my  correctness  that  no  amount  of  cavil  or  opposition  can 
affect  my  conclusions  in  the  slightest  degree — but,  mainly,  for  the  satis- 
faction of  the  gentlemen— geographers,  scientists,  editors,  and  others — 
who  will  join  me  as  members  of  the  expedition  and  see  for  themselves 
the  beautiful  lake  above  Itasca,  which  I  claimed,  after  careful  survey,  to 
be  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi;  and  which  I  assert,  on  the  testimony  of 

(477) 


478  APPENDIX. 

all  American  geographers,  was  never  so  considered  prior  to  the  visit  oi 
my  exploring  party  of  1881,  when  its  true  relation  to  the  river  was 
revealed  and  established.  These  gentlemen  will  probably  testify  over 
their  signatures  as  to  the  results  of  their  investigations,  the  effect  of 
which  may  possibly  be,  to  remove  the  doubts  of  some  who  still  affect  to 
believe  Lake  Itasca  to  be  the  Source— an  error  which  I  have  combatted 
for  the  last  ten  years. 

It  has  occurred  to  me,  dear  sir,  that  you  are  presumably  interested 
in  the  elucidation  of  an  important  geographical  problem  which  has 
attracted  so  much  of  public  attention,  and  may  possibly  like  to  become 
a  member  of  our  party  of  investigators,  and  thus  be  enabled  to  form 
your  own  conclusions  from  observations  made  on  the  spot.  Should  you 
favor  me  by  accepting  my  invitation,  a  cordial  welcome  will  await  you, 
and  I  shall  do  my  best  to  make  the  journey  as  agreeable  and  pleasant  as 
possible.  Having  already  been  over  the  ground,  I  shall  have  no  difficulty 
in  piloting  my  companions  by  the  nearest  and  best  route  to  our 
destination. 

I  am  at  present  organizing  an  expedition  for  the  journey,  and  shall  be 
very  pleased  to  hear  from  you  on  the  subject  of  my  proposal.    I  am, 

Very  respectfully, 

Willard  Glazier. 

Rev.  John  C.  Craue  had  been  for  some  years  in  doubt  as 
to  the  real  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  expressed  a  strong 
desire  to  become  a  member  of  the  Expedition.  Mr.  Craue  is 
well  known  in  the  East  as  a  magazine  writer  on  historical 
questions. 

West  Millbury, 

May  24,  1891. 
Captain  Willard  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

My  Dear  Sir:  It  has  been  my  great  desire  for  the  past  few  years 
to  visit  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi.  Time  after  time  I  have  taken 
up  your  maps  and  others  bearing  on  the  region,  to  see  if  I  was  right  in 
my  premises  and  conclusions.  I  have  said  to  myself:  Are  you  not 
prejudiced  in  the  matter?  Is  not  the  source  somewhere  else?  In  vain! 
I  could  not  convince  myself  that  I  am  wrong  in  accepting  your  lake  to 
the  south  of  Itasca.  By  what  process  of  reasoning  men  can  come  to 
any  other  conclusion,  I  can  not  understand.  I  appreciate  your  desire  to 
know  and  publish  the  truth  on  this  important  geographical  question, 
and  will  go  with  you  if  possible.  Very  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Crane. 

Rev.  George  A.  Peltz,  D.  D.,  LL.  D.,  pastor  of  the  Temple 
Baptist  Church,  Philadelphia,  believes  Lake  Glazier  is  the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  regretted  his  inability  to  accom- 
pany the  party. 


APPENDIX.  479 

The  Temple,  Broad  and  Berks  Streets, 
Philadelphia,  June  9,  1891. 
Dear  Captain  Glazier:  Your  kind  letter  of  the  3d  inst.  was  a 
surprise,  and  I  thought  I  must  say  "  yes,"  and  journey  with  you  through 
the  Northern  Wilderness.  But  I  have  been  obliged  to  change  my  con- 
clusions as  I  have  thought  the  matter  over.  I  fear,  as  I  grow  older,  I  am 
getting  too  heavy  for  explorations,  so  I  am  sure  I  would  not  help  your 
party  much.  I  thank  you  for  your  remembrance  of  me,  but  must  decline 
the  honor,  which  I  do  with  much  regret.  I  wish  you  all  success.  May 
you  silence  your  adversaries  so  effectually  that  they  will  never  trouble 
you  again.  Yours  very  sincerely, 

George  A.  Peltz. 

General  Edward  "W.  Whitaker  of  Washington,  D.  C,  late 
chief  of  staff  to  Generals  Custer,  Kilpatrick,  and  Sheridan, 
regretted  his  inability  to  accompany  the  Glazier  party  on 
account  of  official  engagements. 

Washington,  June  14,  1891. 
Captain  W.  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

My  Dear  Captain:  Your  letter  of  June  11th  at  hand.  Thanks  for 
your  invitation.  I  note  the  dates  you  mention  for  commencing  your 
march  north,  and  see  clearly  that  my  engagements  for  the  reunion  of 
1st  Connecticut  Cavalry  and  the  G.  A.  R.,  at  Detroit,  will  deprive  me  of 
the  great  pleasure  of  being  with  you  and  your  company  of  "pioneers.'" 
I  truly  regret  this,  and  trust  you  will  be  able  to  rout  the  enemy  without 
the  aid  of,  Yours  very  sincerely, 

E.  W.  Whitaker, 

George  Thompson,  editor  of  the  Saint  Paul  Dispatch,  would 
have  much  liked  to  join  the  Glazier  Expedition  to  the  Head- 
waters, bat  was  unable  to  absent  himself  on  account  of  busi- 
ness pressure. 

Office  of  the  Dispatch, 
Saint  Paul,  Minnesota, 
June  15,  1891. 
Captain  W.  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

Dear  Sir:  Your  letter  of  June  10th  I  found  on  my  desk  on  my  return 
from  a  short  vacation.  The  invitation  to  accompany  you  on  your  trip  to 
the  Headwaters,  much  as  I  should  like  to  go  for  many  reasons,  I  am  very 
sorry  to  say  I  cannot  accept,  as  my  duties  are  so  numerous  that  they 
will  not  permit  of  my  absence  for  any  length  of  time.  With  regard  to  a 
representative  of  the  Dispatch  going  with  the  party,  I  hope  to  be  able 
to  send  one .  I  understand  that  a  delegation,  appointed  by  the  Governor 
to  locate  a  park  near  the  Source  of  the  river,  will  start  shortly,  and,  on 
that  account,  as  well  as  a  strong  desire  to  acquire  a  certain  knowledge, 
I  should  like  to  accompany  your  party,  or  the  other,  or  send  a  repre- 
sentative with  both.  Very  truly  yours, 

George  Thompson 


480  APPENDIX. 

George  F.  Cram  of  Chicago,  Book,  Map,  and  Atlas 
Publisher,  would  have  been  pleased  to  see  the  Source  of 
the  Mississippi. 

415-417  Dearborn  Street, 

Chicago,  Illinois, 
June  22,  1891. 
Captain  Willard  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

Dear  Sir:  I  am  pleased  to  acknowledge  receipt  of  your  favor  of 
the  20th  inst.,  and  thank  you  for  the  invitation  you  extend  to  me.  I 
do  not  know,  at  present,  if  it  will  be  possible  forme  to  leave  my  business 
and  be  present  with  you  on  your  trip,  although  I  would  exceedingly  like 
to  do  so,  both  for  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  also  for  the  very  pleasant  summer  outing  which  it  will  undoubtedly 
be.    .    .    .    You  have  my  best  wishes. 

Yours  very  truly, 

George  F.  Cram. 


Hon.  D.  Sinclair,  editor  Winona  Republican,  had  business 
engagements  which  rendered  it  impossible  to  join  the  expe- 
dition. 

Republican  Office, 

Winona,  June  23,  1891. 
Captain  Willard  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

My  Dear  Sir:  ...  I  have  deferred  answering  your  invitation, 
hoping  that  I  might  be  able  to  so  arrange  my  affairs  as  to  accompany 
you  on  your  expedition  to  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  This,  how- 
ever, I  find  it  impossible  to  do,  on  account  of  business  engagements  out- 
side of  my  regular  newspaper  work.  I  regret  this  very  much,  as  it 
would  have  afforded  me  the  greatest  pleasure;  all  the  more  so,  inas- 
much as  I  have  strongly  sympathized  with  your  views  in  the  gallant 
contest  you  have  made  with  our  Minnesota  savants  of  the  Historical 
Society.    Thanking  you  very  cordially  for  your  invitation,  I  am, 

Very  truly  yours, 

D.  Sinclair. 


Dr.  A.  Munsell,  editor  Dubuque  Trade  Journal,  accepted 
the  invitation  to  accompany  Captain  Glazier  and  his  party. 

Trade  Journal  Office, 
Dubuque,  June  29,  1891. 
Captain  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

Dear  Sir:  I  am  pleased  with  the  plan  of  your  journey  to  the  Head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi,  and,  in  answer  to  your  invitation,  shall  find 
pleasure  in  accompanying  the  expedition  in  August.  I  am  already 
impressed  with  the  idea,  from  all  I  have  heard  and  read  of  your  former 


APPENDIX.  481 

expedition,  pro  and  con,  that  Itasca  is  not  the  Source,  and  shall  bj  only 
too  glad  to  look  over  the  field  myself,  and  form  my  conclusions  from 
ocular  evidence.  I  will  be  prepared  to  join  you  in  a  tramp  through  the 
wilderness  whenever  you  are  ready  to  start.  I  Lave,  as  you  are  aware, 
given  considerable  attention  to  the  subject  that  interests  you  so  much. 

Yours  very  truly, 

A.   MuNSELL. 

W.  H.  Gamble,  a  prominent  geographer  of  Philadelphia, 
while  recognizing  the  importance  of  a  second  expedition, 
was  unable  to  accept  the  invitation,  for  reasons  which  he 
assigns. 

618  Chestnut  Street, 
Philadelphia,  June  30,  1891. 
Captain  Willard  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

.  .  .  I  appreciate  your  kindness  i.i  tendering  me  an  invitation  to 
visit  with  you  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  but  am  afraid  it  will 
be  impossible  for  me  to  accept,  as  I  shall  be  at  that  time  unusually  deep 
in  my  United  States  geological  work,  our  contract  expiring  this  fall;  but 
I  assure  you  there  is  nothing  would  please  me  more  than  to  make  one 
of  your  interesting  party  of  explorers.  The  knowledge  gained  by  a 
tramp  over  the  field  would  be  of  vast  service  to  me,  and  I  think  to 
others,  for  my  plan  would  be  to  follow  up  the  drainage  and  locate  its 
proper  Reservoir,  which,  I  have  no  doubt,  from  all  I  have  learned,  would 
be  in  the  Glazier  Lake,  in  accordance  with  the  topography  as  I  now 
understand  it.  I  have  just  completed,  for  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad 
Company,  a  large  drawing  of  the  United  States,  representing  their  sys- 
tem and  connecting  lines.  I  have  placed  Lake  Glazier  as  the  Source  of 
the  Mississippi.  This  drawing  will  be  circulated  throughout  Europe  as 
well  as  America— North  and  South.  < 

W.  H.  Gamble. 

George  H.  Benedict  of  Chicago,  Map  and  Wood  Engraving; 
could  not  avail  himself  of  the  invitation. 

175-177  South  Clark  Street, 

Chicago,  July  6,  1891. 
Captain  Willard  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

Dear  Sir:  Your  polite  invitation  to  accompany  your  Expedition  to 
the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  is  received,  and  I  regret  very  much  that  it 
will  be  quite  impossible  for  me  to  leave  my  business  for  the  length  of 
time  it  would  require  to  make  the  trip  and  investigation  you  contem- 
plate. With  many  thanks  for  your  invitation,  and  wishing  you  success, 
1  am,  Yours  truly, 

George  H.  Benedict. 

Professor  A.  N.   Husted  of  the   Sate    Normal.  College, 
Albany,  New  York,  appreciated  the  invitation,  but  was  unable 
to  accept  it,  for  domestic  reasons. 
31 


482  APPENDIX. 

State  Normal.  College, 
Albany,  July  8,  1891. 
My  Dear  Captain  Glazier:  I  greatly  appreciate  your  invitation  to 
make  one  of  your  party  to  proceed  to  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 
Under  other  circumstances  I  should  be  most  happy  to  avail  myself  of  it, 
but  am  compelled  to  decline  on  account  of  the  severe  illness  of  Mrs. 
Husted,  which  has  detained  us  here  since  our  **  Commencement."  I  am, 
however,  very  sensible  of  your  courtesy  in  thinking  of  me  as  a  possible 
addition  to  your  corps  of  explorers.  Believe  me  that  to  see  the  Source 
of  the  great  Mississippi,  and  enjoy  the  society  of  your  select  party,  for  a 
time,  would  be  a  very  great  pleasure  to  me.  Wishing  you  a  successful 
trip  and  more  well-earned  honors,  I  remain, 

Sincerely  yours, 

A.  N.  Husted. 


H.  H.  Rassweiler,  Geographer,  Chicago,  would  have 
been  very  glad  to  form  one  of  the  party,  but  business  engage- 
ments precluded  his  doing  so. 

515  Wabash  Avenue, 

Chicago,  July  9,  1891. 
Captain  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

Dear  Sir:  Your  favor  of  the  4th  inst.  is  received,  and  I  thank  you 
for  your  invitation  to  accompany  you  on  your  contemplated  trip  to  the 
Headwaters  of  the  Great  River.  Nothing  that  I  can  think  of  in  the  line 
of  recreation,  adventure,  and  interesting  research  would  give  me  more 
pleasure  than  just  such  a  trip  as  you  propose  undertaking.  But  I  regret 
to  say  that  I  can  not  go.  Business  appointments  already  made  forbid 
me  the  pleasure.  Thanking  you  again  for  your  very  kind  invitation,  I 
am,  Very  truly  yours, 

H.  H.  Rassweiler. 


Charles  H.  Ames  of  the  firm  of  D.  C.  Heath  &  Co.,  Edu- 
cational Publishers,  Boston,  Massachusetts,  said  he  could 
not  think  of  a  vacation  for  some  months  to  come,  as  it  was 
the  busiest  season  of  the  year  in  the  educational  publishing 
business. 

Boston,  July  13,  1891. 
Captain  W.  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

Dear  Sir:  Your  attractive  invitation  to  join  an  exploring  party  at 
the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  in  August  is  received.  Nothing  would 
please  me  more,  and  especially  to  make  the  journey  in  company  with 
such  gentlemen  as  I  am  sure  you  will  bring  together  on  the  occasion. 
An  acceptance  of  your  invitation  is,  however,  for  me,  utterly  out  of  the 
question.  It  is  the  busiest  season  of  the  year  in  educational  publishing, 
and  I  can  not  think  of  a  vacation  for  some  months  to  come. 


APPENDIX.'  483 

Please  accept  my  thanks  and  best  wishes  for  the  fullest  success  of 
your  expedition,  and  believe  me,  Very  truly  yours, 

Oharl.es  H.  Ames. 

Charles  Lubrecht,  New  York,  Map  and  Chart  Manufacturer, 
was  unable  to  leave  his  business,  but  sent  good  wishes,  and 
believed  the  Second  Expedition  would  result  in  establishing 

Captain  Glazier's  claim. 

195  Pearl  Street, 
New  York,  July  13, 1891. 
Captain  Willard  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

Dear  Sir:  I  thank  you  for  your  invitation  to  accompany  your  party, 
and  assure  you  nothing  would  afford  me  more  pleasure  than  roughing 
it  with  you  for  such  an  object.  But  my  business  will  not  permit  my 
absence  for  so  long  a  time  as  you  state.  I  can  only  send  you  my  best 
wishes,  and  feel  convinced  that  this  Second  Expedition  to  the  Source  of 
the  Father  of  Waters  will  fully  and  forever  establish  in  all  doubting 
minds— if  there  are  any  left — your  rightful  claim  as  its  discoverer.   I  am, 

Very  truly  yours, 

Charles  Lubrecht. 

Dr.  Charles  E.  Harrison,  Davenport,  Iowa,  Secretary  and 
ex-President  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  accepted  invita- 
tion to  accompany  the  Expedition. 

Davenport,  July  13,  1891. 
Captain  Willard  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

My  Dear  Sir:  Your  letter  is  at  hand.  I  thank  you  for  your  invita- 
tion to  a  member  of  our  Academy  to  join  your  Expedition  to  the  Itascan 
Basin,  and  will  endeavor  to  find  one,  who  would  not  only  be  acceptable 
as  our  representative,  but  would  do  honor  to  you  and  your  party. 
Unfortunately,  most  of  our  members  are  men  of  business  and  pressed 
for  time,  but  I  hope  to  be  able  to  find  some  one  who  will  avail  himself 
of  your  invitation.  I  have  spoken  to  Professor  Barriss  on  the  subject, 
but  fear  it  will  be  impossible  for  him  to  go,  as  he  is  getting  well  along  in 
years  and  his  feeble  health  would  not  permit  him  to  undergo  the 
necessary  fatigue.  Our  President — Mr.  Thompson — Professor  Barriss, 
and  other  officers  and  members,  unite  in  urging  me  to  represent  them, 
but  I  hesitate  to  do  so  from  the  fact  that  I  make  no  claims  as  a  scientist, 
only  a  lover  of  nature  and  nature's  works.  Have  devoted  some  atten- 
tion to  archaeology,  having  done  considerable  investigation  of  the  mounds 
in  this  vicinity.  I  have  served  the  Academy  for  many  years  in  all  the 
official  capacities.  May  I  ask  the  length  of  time  to  be  occupied  by  the 
trip?    I  am,  Very  truly  yours, 

Charles  E.  Harrison. 

NOTE. — In  a  subsequent  letter,  Dr.  Harrison  concluded  to 
accept  the  invitation  to  represent  the  Academy,  and  accompanied 
the  Glazier  party,  leaving  Minneapolis  August  seventeenth. 


484  APPENDIX. 

D.  S.  Knowlton.  editor  Boston  Times,  accepted  invitation 
to  join  the  investigating  party. 

The  Times  Office, 
Boston,  Massachusetts, 
July  20, 1891. 
Dear  Captain  Glazier:  Your  favor  of  June  26th  was  duly  received, 
and  after  giving  the  matter  full  consideration,  I  accept  your  invitation 
to  join  you  on  a  tour  of  observation  at  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi. 
I  will  arrange  the  vacations  of  those  in  the  office  and  adjust  my  own 
affairs  so  as  to  allow  of  my  absence  for  a  month  or  so.  I  very  much 
wish  to  make  one  of  the  party,  and  things  point  that  way  now.  Should 
there  be  any  change  in  the  date  of  departure  from  Minneapolis,  will 
you  kindly  advise  me?  You  can  readily  appreciate  that  I  am  ordinarily 
pretty  busy,  and  have  many  interests  which  it  is  difficult  to  neglect,  or 
be  away  from  for  a  month.  But  I  am  counting  most  earnestly  upon 
being  one  of  your  party,  and  thank  you  for  the  invitation.  We  New 
Englanders  want  to  know  all  about  the  "Great  Northwest,"  and  espe- 
cially the  exact  location  of  the  mighty  Mississippi's  cradle. 

Very  truly  yours, 

D.  S.  Knowlton. 

James  O.  Griffin,  Registrar  Cornell  University,  in  the 
absence  of  President  Adams  in  Europe,  endeavored  to  comply 
with  Captain  Glazier's  request. 

Office  Registrar 
Cornell.  University,  Ithaca, 
July  24, 1891. 
Captain  Willard  Glazier,  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin. 

My  Dear  Sir:  In  reply  to  your  letter  of  invitation  addressed  to 
President  Adams,  I  beg  to  say  that  he  is  now  absent  in  Europe,  and  will 
not  return  until  September;  but  I  will  place  your  letter  in  the  hands  of 
Professor  H.  S.  Williams,  of  the  department  of  Geology  and  Paleontology, 
and  request  him  to  recommend  to  you,  if  possible,  a  gentleman  to 
represent  us  in  your  party.    I  am, 

Very  truly  yours, 

James  O.  Griffin. 

Professor  H.  D.  Densmore,  Beloit  College,  had  arranged  to 
join  the  Glazier  Expedition,  but  found  at  the  last  moment  that 
he  could  not  absent  himself  from  the  College  at  the  time 
appointed  for  the  departure  from  Minneapolis,  and  recom- 
mended a  substitute. 

Beloit  College, 
August  11,  1891. 
Captain  Glazier,  Minneapolis,  Minnesota. 

My  Dear  Sir:  I  find,  at  the  last  moment,  that  I  can  not  accompany 
you.    Your  trip  would  take  me  into  the  beginning  of  my  term  work, 


APPENDIX.  485 

which  it  does  not  seem  advisable  for  me  to  encroacnupon.  I  am  very 
sorry  indeed  not  to  form  one  of  your  party.  I  can  do  no  better  than 
commend  to  you  as  a  substitute  Mr.  Albert  Whitney,  son  of  Professor 
H.  M.  Whitney.  He  is  a  graduate,  and  a  genius  in  woodcraft.  You  would 
find  him  a  valuable  acquisition  as  an  explorer. 
Again  expressing  my  regrets,  I  am, 

Very  sincerely  yours, 

H.  D.  Densmore. 

The  replies  to  letters  of  invitation  could  be  largely  multi 
plied,  but  the  few  I  have  inserted  above  will  suffice  to  show 
the  spirit  in  which  the  invitation  was  received,  and  the  inter- 
est manifested  in  the  proposed  Expedition. 


F. 

AFTER   THE   RETURN". 

Having  presented  to  the  reader  a  few  of  the  letters  received 
by  Captain  Glazier  before  the  departure  of  the  Expedition  on 
its  errand  of  investigation,  it  will  possibly  be  deemed  pertim  nt 
to  the  purpose  of  this  Appendix  to  submit  others  written  by 
various  members  of  the  party  after  tlieir  return.  These  s-how 
the  very  decided  opinions  formed  on  the  subject  that  engrossed 
attention  at  the  Headwaters— the  exact  location  of  the  Source 
of  the  Mississippi.  They  will  further  expose  the  mendacity 
of  certain  parties  who  maliciously  invented  and  attempted  to 
spread  the  falsehood  that  the  investigating  party  were  "divided 
in  their  conclusions  as  to  the  True  Source  of  the  River." 

The  New  York  Herald  printed  the  following  communica- 
tion from  D.  S.  Knowlton,  editor  of  the  Boston  Times: 

Wadena,  Minnesota, 
September  4,  1891. 
To  the  Editor  of  the  New  York  Herald: 

On  Saturday  morning,  August  22d,  the  Glazier  Expedition  left  Park 
Rapids,  Hubbard  County,  Minnesota,  by  wagon  train,  to  visit  the  Head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi  River.  Their  object  was  to  carefully  investi- 
gate the  streams  and  lakes  tributary  to  Lake  Itasca,  take  measurements 
and  photographs,  and  report  to  the  public  impartially  upon  the  facts  as 
found.  The  value  to  the  world  of  these  investigations  lies  in  the  fact 
that  there  is,  particularly  in  Saint  Paul,  some  controversy  as  to  what 
should  be  considered  the  Ultimate  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters. 

In  1832,  Schoolcraft  located  Itasca  as  this  Source.  In  1881,  Captain 
Willard  Glazier,  the  author  and  traveler,  claimed  to  have  discovered,  and 
to  have  been  the  first  to  announce,  the  true  relation  of  the  Mississippi  to 
the  lake  south  of  the  southwest  arm  of  Lake  Itasca.  As  it  was  a  lake  of 
large  dimensions,  he  proclaimed  it  the  True  Source. 

It  was  quite  generally  considered  to  be  so  for  a  number  of  years. 
Then  a  controversy  arose,  and  lately  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society, 
who  denominate  the  Glazier  Lake  as  Elk  Lake — the  early  name  of  Itasca 
— have  explored  another  stream  entering  Itasca  a  little  farther  to  the 
west,  called  Nicollet  Creek,  and  have  located  the  Source  of  the  Great 
River  up  that  valley. 

The  members   of   this   Second   Expedition  were:  Captain  Willard 
(  ISC) 


APPENDIX.  48? 

Gfiazier  of  Albany,  New  York;  Pearce  Giles  of  Camden,  New  Jersey; 
John  C.  Crane  of  Worcester,  Massachusetts,  historian,  author,  and 
genealogist;  Charles  E.  Harrison  of  Davenport,  Iowa,  who  has  held 
nearly  all  of  the  executive  offices  of  the  Davenport  Academy  of  Sciences; 
A.  Munsell  of  Dubuque,  Iowa,  editor  and  publisher  of  the  Dubuque 
Trade  Journal,  and  well  known  in  the  business  circles  of  that  city;  F.  J. 
Trost  of  Van  Loo  &  Trost,  the  Toledo  photographers,  who  took  many 
photographs  of  the  lakes1  tributaries  and  surrounding  hills;  W.  S.  Shure 
of  York,  Pennsylvania,  artist;  D.  S.  Knowlton,  editor  of  the  Boston 
Times;  Albert  A7.  Whitney  of  Beloit  College,  Beloit,  Wisconsin,  botan- 
ist to  the  expedition;  E.  M.  Horton,  surveyor  and  civil  engineer;  Oliver 
S.  Keay  of  Park  Rapids,  assistant  surveyor  and  guide,  and  Louis  Dele- 
zene  of  Park  Rapids,  cook.  We  were  also  accompanied  a  part  of  the 
time  by  Hon.  C.  D.  Cutting  and  Frank  Cutting  of  Howard  County, 
Iowa;  and  A.  R.  Cobb,  postmaster  at  Park  Rapids,  and  editor  of  the 
Hubbard  County  Enterprise. 

Miss  Alice  Glazier,  Captain  Glazier's  daughter,  was  the  only  lady  to 
accompany  the  expedition.  She  has  decided  ability  as  a  water-colorist 
and  sketcher. 

Saturday  evening  overtook  us  twenty-two  miles  from  Park  Rapids. 
Schoolcraft  Island,  in  Lake  Itasca,  was  reached  by  nightfall  the  next 
day. 

Early  Monday  morning,  August  24th,  we  paddled  down  the  southwest 
arm  of  Itasca,  and  pitched  a  permanent  camp  on  a  ridge,  some  thirty 
feet  high,  overlooking  and  separating  Lake  Itasca  on  the  north  and  the 
Glazier  lake  on  the  south.  The  latter  is  a  beautiful  body  of  water,  at 
least  255  acres  in  area.  It  flows  into  Itasca  by  a  stream  1,100  feet  in 
length,  which  has  been  named  the  Infant  Mississippi. 

The  feeders  of  Lake  Glazier  are  as  follows:  Skirting  the  lake  along 
its  eastern  shore,  one  hears,  fifty  feet  away,  the  water  pouring  in  a  cas- 
cade from  an  iron  spring,  some  fifty  feet  from  the  edge  of  the  lake, 
and  at  least  fifteen  feet  above  it.  Next  comes  Deer  Creek,  which  is 
6,864  feet  long;  Horton  Creek  is  1,188  feet  long,  flowing  from  a  lake  396 
feet  wide;  Excelsior  Creek  is  8,778  feet  in  length,  its  source  being  two 
and  two-third  miles  from  Itasca.  Eagle  Creek  is  4,356  feet  long,  and 
flows  from  Lake  Alice,  a  picturesque  sheet  of  water  nine  and  a  half 
acres  in  extent. 

These  tributaries  enter  the  lake  in  natural  bays,  which  are  separated 
from  each  other  by  wooded  ridges  jutting  into  the  lake. 

It  having  been  claimed  by  some  that  the  Mississippi  has  its  Source  up 
Nicollet  Creek  to  the  west,  the  party  made  an  equally  careful  investiga- 
tion of  the  running  water  tributary  at  that  point.  Nicollet  Creek  was 
chained  from  its  mouth  through  Nicollefs  First  Lake— not  over  three 
acres  in  extent— and  Nicollet's  Second  Lake— not  over  twelve  acres  in 
extent— to  its  starting-point,  above  the  second  lake.  The  most  remote 
running  water  issues  from  a  series  of  springs  7,307  feet  from  Itasca,  a 
little  over  one  and  two-fifths  miles.  These  springs  are  at  the  foot  of  a 
high  ridge  or  divide,  which  was  examined  carefully.  I  can  not  see  how 
they  can  be  considered  otherwise  tJaan  the  source  of  the  creek.    No  con- 


488  APPENDIX. 

necting  ruuning  water  was  found  flowing  from  Nicollet's  Third  Lake 
over  the  divide  or  from  the  region  beyond. 

By  comparing  the  figures  given,  it  is  seen  that  the  distance  of  tins 
most  remote  running  water  from  Itasca  flowing  through  Glazier  Lake— 
the  source  of  Excelsior  Creek— is  6,799  feet  more  than  the  most  remote 
running  water  entering  Itasca  through  the  Nicollet  Creek— an  excess  ot 
nearly  one  mile  and  a  third  in  favor  of  the  Glazier  Basin.    .    .    . 

Our  long  tramps  being  practically  completed  early  Saturday  after- 
noon, August  29th,  the  entire  company  crossed  the  Glazier  lake  in 
canoes  to  the  highest  promontory  on  its  southern  shore.  Captain  Gla- 
zier there  delivered  quite  an  address  beneath  the  same  trees  under  which 
he  halted  in  1881.  He  said  that  he  then  became  satisfied  that  this  beautiful 
lake  was  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  for  the  reason  that  it  is 
above  and  beyond  Itasca;  that  it  flows  into  that  lake  through  a  perennial 
stream,  and  that  it  has  five  permanent  feeders  leading  to  the  swamps 
and  sand  hills  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  and  a  half  miles  southward. 

Camp  was  broken  Monday,  August  31st,  and  we  arrived  at  Park  Rap- 
ids Tuesday  evening.  The  members  of  the  party  drew  up  and  signed 
a  statement  covering  their  observations,  without  Captain  Glazier's 
knowledge.    I  will  give  the  concluding  paragraph: 

"Investigation  and  observation  lead  us  to  the  conclusion  that  the 
basin  drained  by  the  feeders  to  Lake  Glazier,  and  emptying  into  Lake 
Itasca  at  the  southeast  corner  of  its  southwest  arm,  is  considerably 
larger  than  that  drained  by  the  stream  emptying  into  the  south  side  of 
the  southwest  arm— Nicollet  Creek;  and  that  running  water  can  be 
traced  at  a  much  greater  distance  from  the  outlet  of  Glazier  Lake  into 
Lake  Itasca  than  from  the  other  outlet  referred  to." 

D.  S.  Knowlton. 

Letter  to  the  Minneapolis  Tribune  from  Albert  W.  Whit- 
ney, botanist  to  the  expedition: 

Park  Rapids,  Minnesota, 
September  3,  1891. 

The  Second  Glazier  Expedition  to  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi 
returned  to  this  place  last  evening.  .  .  .  The  party  left  Minneapolis 
on  Monday,  August  seventeenth.  Most  of  the  week  following  was  spent 
on  the  route,  in  the  cities  of  Saint  Cloud,  Brainerd,  Wadena,  and  Park 
Rapids,  and  in  getting  ready  to  start  into  the  woods.  At  Brainerd  the 
party  received  a  pleasant  call  from  Miss  Lotta  Grandelmeyer,  a  great- 
granddaughter  of  William  Morrison,  who  was  the  first  white  man  to  see 
Lake  Itasca.  At  Park  Rapids  the  party  was  increased  by  the  addition  to 
its  ranks  of  Hon.  C.  D.  Cutting  and  son,  of  Iowa;  H.  R.  Cobb,  postmaster 
and  editor  of  the  Hubbard  County  Enterprise;  E.  M.  Horton,  civil  engi- 
neer and  surveyor;  O.  S.  Keay,  assistant  surveyor  and  guide,  and  Louis 
Delezene,  cook. 

Saturday  morning  the  journey  from  Park  Rapids  was  begun,  and  the 
heavy-laden  wagons  rolled  over  the  prairie  for  a  few  miles  and  then 
plunged  northward  into  the  somber  forest.    The  road  is  about  as  bad  as 


APPENDIX.  489 

could  well  be  imagined ;  up  and  down  the  steep  inclines  of  the  Kettle 
Moraine,  and  over  great  glacial  bowlders,  to  say  nothing  of  washouts 
and  stumps  and  mud-holes.  Lake  Itasca  was  reached  on  the  second 
day,  and  as  the  sun  threw  his  setting  rays  across  its  sedgy  waters, 
tents  were  pitched  on  the  island  where  fifty-nine  years  ago  Schoolcraft 
landed,  and  which  now  bears  his  name.  Lake  Itasca  is  a  body  of  water 
consisting  of  the  anomaly  of  three  arms  without  a  body,  radiating  from 
a  point  which  almost  coincides  with  Schoolcraft  Island.  The  water  is 
not  very  clear,  but  quite  deep.  The  shores  are  fringed  with  a  few  rods 
of  sedges  and  wild  rice,  where  one  may  occasionally  catch  sight  of  a 
deer  rea  Zy  to  dart  back  into  the  forest  which  encircles  the  lake;  now  the 
banks  are  steep  and  covered  with  birch  and  poplar,  and  occasional 
pieces  of  fine  pine;  now  they  are  low  and  thickly  grown  with  tamarack. 

Monday  was  spent  in  moving  camp  to  the  ridge  of  high  land  separat- 
ing Lakes  Itasca  and  Glazier.  There  lay  spread  out  before  our  gaze  the 
two  lakes;  elsewhere  a  limitless  expanse  of  pine  and  birch,  save  in  the 
opening  about  us,  where  grew  in  gay  profusion  quantities  of  golden-rod, 
asters,  and  painted-cup,  while  off  toward  the  water  was  revealed  the 
beautiful  face  of  the  fringed  gentian.  By  the  way,  I  never  saw  this 
flower  in  such  wonderful  beauty  and  quantity  as  along  the  road  on  the 
way  back;  it  was  a  glorious  vision  of  blue. 

I  think  every  member  of  the  party,  without  exception,  was  surprised 
at  the  extent  and  beauty  of  the  Glazier  lake  as  it  first  dawned  upon  our 
view.  In  size  and  character,  I  should  say,  it  very  much  resembles  Lake 
Harriet,  near  Minneapolis.  Its  shape  is  roughly  oval.  Its  greatest 
length  is  about  one  and  one-fourth  miles;  its  width,  from  one-half  to 
three-fourths  of  a  mile.  Its  area  is  255  acres;  its  depth,  about  45  feet. 
Many  of  its  characteristics  are  those  of  Itasca;  the  difference  between 
them  lies  in  the  greater  height  of  the  hills  which  surround  the  Glazier 
lake  and  in  its  much  clearer  and  purer  waters. 

Lake  Glazier  is  connected  with  Itasca  by  a  creek.  This  creek  has  a 
brisk  current,  and  we  found  carried  enough  water  to  afford  to  our  large 
boats  passage  between  the  lakes.  Lake  Glazier  is  fed  by  at  least  four 
tributaries;  they  all  flow  northward.  The  largest  is  Excelsior  Creek. 
This  originates  in  seepage  springs  in  a  tamarack  swamp;  these  springs 
were  found  by  measurement  to  be  8,778  feet  from  the  Glazier  lake. 

Eagle  Creek  rises  likewise  in  a  tamarack  swamp  6,798  feet  from 
Lake  Glazier;  1,518  feet  from  its  source  it  passes  through  Lake  Alice,  a 
beautiful  little  sheet  of  water,  1)24  feet  in  length,  and  of  an  area  of 
about  S)%  acres.  Deer  Creek  from  its  source  to  Lake  Glazier  is  6,864  feet. 
Horton  Creek  is  a  small  stream  1,188  feet  in  length.  It  has  its  source 
in  a  lily  pond  of  about  21/2  acres.  Besides  these  streams  there  are  on 
the  east  shore  of  the  lake  several  iron  springs,  one  of  which  pours  its 
waters  in  a  cascade  down  the  face  of  fifty  feet  of  a  hill. 

Lake  Glazier  is  just  as  worthy  of  the  name  of  lake  as  is  Itasca,  and  in 
interesting  features  and  picturesqueness  far  surpasses  it  ,  Its  waters 
are  full  of  fish.  Casual  trolling  between  the  long  tramps  and  exploring 
campaigns  which  formed  the  daily  programme  always  resulted  in  the 
capture  of  plenty  of  pickerel,  pike,  rock- bass,  and  croppies.    One  morn- 


490  APPENDIX. 

ing,  besides  numerous  smaller  fry,  two  fish  were  caught  which  together 
weighed  twenty-five  pounds.  Ducks  are  not  very  numerous,  but  of 
course  the  season  is  yet  rather  early.  While  speaking  of  game,  let  me 
not  forget  to  chronicle  our  t  wo  bear  adventures.  Mr.  Bear  in  both  cases 
was  wise  enough  to  appear  before  our  "amateur11  hunters,  and  both 
were  relieved,  I  venture  to  say,  with  mere  salutes. 

The  only  other  important  feeder  of  Lake  Itasca  is  Nicollet  Creek, 
which  enters  Itasca  about  a  qu-rter  of  a  mile  west  of  the  outlet  of  the 
creek  from  Lake  Glazier.  This  was  carefully  explored  and  measured 
from  mouth  to  source.  It  drains  a  tamarack  swamp  and  has  several 
small  feeders.  Its  total  length  is  7,307  feet.  Near  its  head  it  passes 
through  two  small  bodies  of  water,  which  have  been  called  "Nicollet's 
First  and  Second  Lakes.11  The  former  of  these,  and  nearest  to  Itasca, 
is  a  lily  pond  of  about  three  acres.  The  second  is  a  small  lake  of  about 
twelve  acres  in  extent,  but  of  no  especial  beauty  or  interest.  A  few  feet 
beyond  this,  and  one  is  confronted  by  a  high  ridge  of  land.  While  gazing 
up  at  the  splendid  pines  which  crown  its  summit,  one  of  our  party  dis- 
covered the  source  of  Nicollet  Creek  by  stepping  in,  up  to  the  knees,  in  a 
spring  which  bubbles  up  at  its  base.  Whatever  importance  Nicollet 
Creek  may  have  as  a  feeder  of  Lake  Itasca,  it  is  certain  that  this  must 
accrue  to  it  in  virtue  of  its  career  below  the  ridge  and  this  spring. 

Itasca  is  supplied  by  two  principal  sources.  One  of  these  drains  a 
tamarack  swamp,  has  nothing  worthy  to  be  called  a  lake  in  its  course, 
and  has  a  source  7,307  feet  from  Itasca.  The  other  is  a  narrower  stream, 
but  flows  from  a  fine  lake,  the  source  of  whose  principal  feeder  is  14,106 
feet  from  Itasca. 

These  are  the  facts  in  regard  to  Lakes  Itasca  and  Glazier,  and 
their  feeders,  which  our  party  have  to  present.  Our  time  has  been 
principally  spent  in  their  careful  acquisition,  and  it  was  no  easy  matter, 
in  this  country  of  tamarack  swamps,  floating  bogs,  underbrush,  and 
mosquitos,  to  obtain  them. 

As  to  pronouncing  judgment  in  the  matter  of  the  Source  of  the 
Mississippi,  I,  at  least,  and  I  think  I  may  safely  say  each  member  of  the 
party,  feels  that  it  is  not  his  province.  We  hope  that  we  have  more  or 
less  perfectly  presented  the  facts  in  regard  to  the  question.  Let  the 
people,  by  the  help  of  able  geographers,  use  these  facts  in  coming  to  a 
conclusion  as  to  the  True  Source  of  the  Great  River. 

Albert  W.  Whitney. 

Dr.  A.  Munsell  gives  Lis  account  of  the  investigations  at 
the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  in  which  he  participated 
as  a  member  of  the  Second  Glazit  r  Expedition: 

Everybody  knows  that  in  1332  Henry  Rowe  Schoolcraft,  a  distin- 
guished American  explorer  and  ethnologist,  sought  the  Source  of  the 
Mississippi  River.  He  reached  a  lake  having  three  sprawling  arms  and 
a  central  island.  From  this  lake,  at  the  extremity  of  its  northern  arm, 
through  an  outlet  thirty  feet  wide,  the  water  found  an  outward  flow. 
Aiter  campine:  a  few  hours  on  the  island,  he  concluded  that  here  was  the 
Ultimate  Source  and  Primal  Reservoir  of  the  Great  River.  He  inquired  of 


APPENDIX.  491 

his  Indian  guide  the  name  of  the  lake,  and  was  told  Omushkos—a,  word 
that  means  "Elk.11  He  then  departed,  and  for  fifty  years  this  body  of 
water,  which  here-named  "Itasca,11  continued  the  accepted  Source  of 
the  river,  the  island,  meanwhile,  being  honored  with  his  name. 

In  1881,  Captain  Willard  Glazier  of  Albany,  New  York,  soldier,  trav- 
eler, and  author,  by  reason  of  information  derived  from  Indians, 
became  impressed  with  the  conviction  that  uncertainty  yet  rested  on  the 
origin  of  the  river,  and  that  its  True  Source  was  probably  beyond  Itasca. 
Entertaining  this  view,  he  organized  a  party  and  proceeded  to  a  further 
exploration  of  the  Headwater  region.  Reaching  Itasca  on  the  twenty- 
first  of  July,  1881,  he  entered  the  lake  and  paddled  for  Schoolcraft.  Island, 
where  tents  were  pitched  that  night.  Meanwhile,  Chenowagesic,  his 
chief  guide,  had  informed  the  Captain  that  some  years  previously  he  had 
lived  in  that  region,  making  it  his  hunting-ground  within  the  distance  of 
one  hundred  miles.  He  also  declared  that  the  beginning  of  the  river 
was  beyond  Lake  Itasca.  On  the  morning  of  the  twenty-second  of  July 
the  search  was  vigorously  commenced.  In  coasting  the  lake,  two  streams 
were  found  having  distinct  inlets,  and  four  that  indistinctly  percolated 
through  bogs.  Chenowagesic  insisted  that  one  of  the  two  streams  near 
the  extremity  of  the  southwestern  arm  led  to  a  lake  beyond  Itasca. 
The  right  stream  was  at  length  discovered,  and  the  canoes  pushed 
through.  A  lively  flow  of  water  soon  revealed  itself,  and,  with  enthusi- 
asm, a  difficult  passage  through  it  was  made,  when  suddenly  a  most 
beautiful  lake  appeared.  This  body  of  water  was  immediately  pad- 
dled across  to  a  promontory  on  its  southern  shore,  which,  projecting 
into  the  lake,  considerably  indents  its  marginal  outline.  The  gen- 
eral shape  was  deemed  to  be  oval,  and  its  greatest  diameter  nearly 
two  miles.  On  coasting  the  lake,  three  tributary  streams  were  found 
and  traced  to  their  origins,  two  of  them  to  springs  issuing  from  sand 
hills  and  one  proceeding  from  a  small  lake.  The  streams  were  at  once 
named  by  the  Captain,  Eagle,  Excelsior,  and  Deer  creeks,  and  the  lake- 
let at  the  head  of  Eagle  Creek  was  called  Lake  Alice.  As  nothing  but 
mere  feeders  flowed  into  the  newly  discovered  body  of  water,  Captain 
Glazier  deemed  it  to  be  the  Ultimate  Source  of  the  Mississippi;  that 
Itasca  received  its  waters,  and,  as  an  expansion  of  the  river  only,  sent 
them  onward  in  their  course  toward  the  sea.  A  few  remarks  from  the 
Captain  reminded  them  of  the  importance  of  their  work,  and  the  effect 
it  would  haT?e  in  making  a  new  revelation  concerning  the  real  Source  of 
America's  greatest  river.  At  the  instance  of  Mr.  Paine,  a  member  of  the 
expedition,  and  by  a  unanimous  vote,  with  the  exception  of  the  Cap- 
tain's, the  body  of  water  was  formally  named  Lake  Glazier.  Six  volleys 
were  fired  over  the  water— a  volley  for  each  member  of  the  party.    .    .    . 

The  announcement  of  the  new  Source  was  soon  made  known  to  the 
world,  and  Captain  Glazier,  already  noted  as  an  author  and  traveler, 
became  still  more  so  by  the  publication  of  another  book,  entitled 
"Down  the  Great  River.11  Geographers,  scientists,  and  map  publishers, 
as  well  as  the  settlers  of  Northern  Minnesota,  immediately  accepted  the 
truth  of  a  new  Source  to  the  Mississippi. 

But  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society,  which  vaunts  itself  as  "a 


492  APPENDIX. 

co-ordinate  branch  of  the  State  Government,"  several  years  after  the 
announcement  of  the  location  of  the  True  Source  of  the  river,  bestinvd 
itself  to  controvert  and  deny  the  genuineness  of  the  discovery,  and 
denounced  the  discoverer  as  an  "adventurer"  and  a  false  guide.  By 
lobbying  the  Legislature,  the  Society  procured  the  passage  of  a  law  pro- 
hibiting the  use  in  the  public  schools  of  the  State  of  any  map  or  geogra- 
phy showing  Lake  Glazier  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  Captain 
Glazier,  however,  stoutly  adhered  to  his  position,  would  retract  nothing 
from  his  published  statements,  and  the  controversy  waxed  warm.  An 
agent  of  the  Society  was  dispatched  to  the  Headwaters,  with  instruc- 
tions to  report  on  the  real  Source  of  the  river,  and  disprove  the  Glazier 
theory.  This  agent  complicated  matters  on  his  return  by  reporting  four 
new  sources  to  the  river.  One  of  these  was  ascertained  by  hypothet- 
ically  tunneling  a  ridge,  following  ooze  through  a  bog,  and  ultimately 
draining  from  a  distant  lake  by  tapping  its  bottom.  Another,  in  very 
despair,  gave  the  source  a  heavenly  origin,  the  agent  reporting  that 
"  All  our  rivers  have  their  sources  in  the  clouds,"  a  truism  scarcely  com- 
ing within  the  definition  of  "  physical  geography."  The  map  publishers 
intensified  the  controversy,  it  is  conjectured,  with  a  view  of  delaying 
any  necessary  changes  in  their  maps.  They  also  arranged  to  have  the 
recent  International  Congress  at  Berne,  Switzerland,  conservatively  pass 
on  the  Source  question  of  the  Mississippi,  and  name  Itasca  as  still  the 
origin  of  the  river.    All  this,  and  other  reasons,  gave  rise  to  the 

SECOND  GLAZIER  EXPEDITION. 

For  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  accurately  the  actual  Source  of  the 
Mississippi,  several  geographers,  scientists,  editors,  and  others,  volun- 
teered to  accompany  Captain  Glazier,  in  August,  1891,  to  the  Headwaters 
of  the  river.  All  preparations  being  completed,  the  party  left  Park 
Rapids,  a  frontier  town  nearest  to  the  Headwaters,  on  the  morning  of 
the  22d  in  three  wagons.  The  way  was  rough  and  through  a  wilderness. 
Twenty  miles  out,  we  camped  for  the  night.  Next  day,  the  23d,  reached 
Lake  Itasca  in  the  afternoon,  and  camped  for  the  night.  A  permanent 
camp  was  established  the  24th  on  the  high  ridge  separating  Lake  Glazier 
from  Lake  Itasca.  Camp  Trost,  on  Lake  Glazier,  was  named  in  honor  of 
Fred  J.  Trost  of  Toledo,  Ohio,  a  skilled  photographer  and  experienced 
sportsman.  He  has  taken  one  hundred  views  in  the  headwaters  region  of 
scenes  in  camp  and  woods,  and  places  of  prominence  and  interest.  The 
tents  on  Camp  Trost  were  occupied  seven  days,  or  rather  nights,  for 
during  the  day  all  hands  were  constantly  out  and  hard  at  work  in  their 
respective  spheres.  Exploring  squads  went  in  every  direction,  all  over 
the  so-called  Itasca  Basin,  and  noted  every  rivulet,  spring,  bog,  pond, 
and  lake.  The  two  surveyors  chained  the  length  of  all  the  streams  and 
triangulated  for  distances  across  water.  "Whitney,  the  botanist,  indus- 
triously inquired  into  the  flora,  not  neglecting  the  fauna,  of  the  region, 
and  also  determined  the  flowing  volume  of  water  at  important  points 
connected  with  the  inlets  of  feeders  to  Lakes  Itasca  and  Glazier,  and 
the  inlets  and  outlets  of  the  main  Mississippi  stream  in  this,  the 
locality  of  its    infancy.     Dr.    Harrison   gathered    mineralogical    and 


APPENDIX.  493 

small  zoological  specimens  while  aiding  in  tbe  common  work  of 
exploration.  The  journalists  observed,  took  notes,  and  were  more  or 
less  active,  in  company  with  the  surveyors,  in  taking  measurements  of 
affluents  and  locating  springs.  Briefly,  and  by  way  of  summary,  the 
work  done  by  this  Expedition  may  be  given:  First,  Pine  Creek,  named 
by  Captain  Glazier  in  1881,  and  since  variously  called  "Nicollet  River  " 
and  by  other  names,  was  thoroughly  investigated.  Its  upward  trace 
commences  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  southwestern  arm  of  Itasca.  The 
trace  was  followed  into,  and  out  of,  a  iily-covered  pond  of  about  three 
acres;  thence  into,  and  out  of,  a  larger,  or  twelve-acre  collection  of 
water,  from  which  it  proceeds  to  its  origin  in  a  boggy  spring  at  the  base 
of  a  high  ridge  that  divides  the  valley  of  this  creek  from  the  basiu  of 
Lake  Glazier  and  its  numerous  feeders.  The  entire  length  of  the  creek 
was  chained  and  found  to  be  7,307  feet,  or  about  a  mile  and  two-fifths. 
Over  the  ridge  and  beyond,  in  the  general  depression  on  the  hither  side 
of  the  Hauteurs  de  Terre,  or  heights  of  land,  that  divides  the  Mississippi 
water-shed  from  that  of  the  Red  River  of  the  North,  numerous  isolated 
bogs,  ponds,  lakelets,  and  lakes  were  seen  and  noted. 

Examination  next  began  at  the  mouth  of  the  Infant  Mississippi— a 
perennial  stream  that  unites  Lakes  Glazier  and  Itasca.  Upward,  its 
course  begins  near  the  end  of  the  southwestern  arm  of  Itasca,  on  the 
east  side,  and  leads  into  Lake  Glazier.  Lake  Glazier  is  a  beautiful  body 
of  water,  having  a  surface  of  255  acres  and  a  depth  of  45  feet.  Next 
to  Itasca  it  is  the  largest  single  collection  of  water  in  the  headwaters 
region.  In  general  shape  it  is  oval,  with  longer  and  shorter  diameters 
of  nearly  two  miles  and  one  mile.  Its  waters  are  deeper  than  those  of 
Itasca,  purer,  and  more  abound  with  fish.  The  growth  of  vegetation 
and  forest  about  it  is  of  the  same  general  character  as  that  which  borders 
Itasca,  but  is  more  dense  and  green.  The  outline  is  gently  irregular  and 
pleasingly  sinuous.  A  bold  rocky  promontory,  fifty  feet  high,  rises  from 
the  lake  on  the  south  side,  while  a  high  ridge  elevates  the  bank  on  the 
east.  Though  perhaps  a  hundred  pure  springs  pour  through  their 
rivulets  into  Lake  Glazier,  its  main  feeders  are: 

Eagle  Creek,  leading  out  at  the  northwest,  proceeding  directly  west, 
and  then  south  to  its  origin  in  Lake  Alice;  which,  further,  has  a  rill 
feeder  1  518  feet  long.  The  entire  distance  of  the  commencement  of  the 
minor  feeder  to  Lake  Alice,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Infant  Mississippi  in 
Lake  Itasca,  is  9,878  feet. 

Excelsior  Creek,  directly  south,  has  a  length  of  8,788  feet,  and  its 
origin,  a  spring,  is  14,106  feet  distant  from  the  mouth  of  the  Infant 
Mississippi. 

Deer  Creek  and  Horton  Creek  are  both  on  the  south,  the  former 
rising  in  a  spring  and  the  latter  in  Whitney  Pond.  Deer  Creek  is  6,864 
feet  long,  and  its  source  is  13,904  feet  from  Itasca.  Horton  Creek  is 
1,188  feet  long,  and  its  source,  Whitney  Pond,  396  feet.  The  area  of 
Whitney  Pond  is  two  acres,  and  the  distance  to  its  extreme  southern  end 
from  Itasca  is  8,492  feet. 

Shure  Spring  is  situated  on  the  hillside  of  the  east  bank  of  Lake 
Glazier,  at  a  horizontal  distance  of  probably  80  feet,  and  vertical  eleva- 


494  APPENDIX. 

tion  of  40  feet  above  the  lake  level.  Its  stream  would  All  a  three-inch 
pipe,  and  leaps  in  a  lively  rush  down  the  hill.  It  has  been  named  after 
Mr.  Shure's  wife,  Florence  Cascade.  The  spring  and  cascade  are  objects 
of  pleasing  interest,  and  the  water  strongly  chalybeate. 

Other  features  of  Lake  Glazier  may  be  alluded  to.  The  promontory 
causes  a  prouounced  bay  on  each  side  of  it.  The  beach  on  the  south- 
eastern side  is  composed  of  fine  white  sand,  which  reminds  one  of  the 
seaside.  Near  the  southwestern  shore  is  an  eagle's  nest  in  the  top  of  a 
Norway  pine.  It  appears  to  be  about  five  or  six  feet  in  outside  circum- 
ference. Captain  Glazier  saw  it  there  in  1881,  and  Chenowagesic  told 
him  it  had  been  there  for  forty  years  previously.  How  many  eaglets 
have  been,  and  will  be,  nurtured  in  that  maternal  home  may  be  left  for 
the  imagination  to  conjecture. 

A  most  pleasing  effect  is  experienced  by  the  beholder  on  seeing  this 
lake  the  first  time,  and  particularly  from  any  of  the  high  lands  sur- 
rounding it.  He  is  surprised  at  viewing  so  large  a  sheet  of  water,  and 
his  attention  is  riveted  many  moments  on  its  unusual  beauty. 

•  On  August  twenty-ninth,  tbe  investigating  labors  of  the  Expedition 
closed,  and  in  the  afternoon  the  party  assembled  on  the  promontory. 
There  Captain  Glazier  addressed  us.  He  reviewed  the  history  of  the 
Mississippi's  Source,  and  complimented  his  hearers  on  the  care  taken 
and  the  diligence  shown  in  the  examination  of  the  region.  He  said 
their  work  was  important,  and  would  be  regarded  with  interest  by  every 
inhabitant  of  Minnesota,  the  Mississippi  Valley,  this  country,  and  the 
geographical  world  generally.  In  the  final  decision  of  what  is  the  True 
Source,  geographers  would  value  and  consider  the  work  we  had  done. 
Mr.  Crane,  on  behalf  of  his  companions,  responded  briefly  and  appro- 
priately. 

The  Flag  which  had  floated  over  every  camp,  and  had  accompanied 
Captain  Glazier  to  the  same  region  in  1881,  was  hoisted  to  a  tree-top  to 
remain  as  a  memento  of  the  Second  Glazier  Expedition.  Twenty-five 
volleys  were  fired  as  a  salute— six  for  the  party  of  1881  and  nineteen  for 
the  party  of  1891.  All  then  entered  the  canoes  and  enjoyed  a  leisurely 
stroll  of  observation  at  an  hour  when  the  air  was  balmy,  the  breeze 
gentle,  and  the  declining  sun  cast  a  glow  of  cheerful  light  over  beauti- 
ful Lake  Glazier. 

Sunday,  August  30th,  was  spent  quietly  in  camp,  writing  up  journals 
and  preparing  for  the  morrow's  retreat  toward  civilization.  Mr.  Crane 
closed  the  day  with  divine  service  in  front  of  the  camp.  In  an  admira- 
ble discourse  he  proclaimed  the  gospel  call  to  his  hearers.  When  the 
sermon  and  prayer  ceased,  a  spontaneous  choir  sang  "  Nearer  My  God  to 
Thee,"  followed  by  the  doxology  and  benediction.  Thus  closed  our 
Sabbath  day. 

The  entire  region  had  been  traversed,  and  every  rill,  rivulet,  stream, 
bog,  and  collection  of  water  carefully  examined.  In  addition  to  the  top- 
ographic and  hydrographic  facts  mentioned  in  this  letter,  the  following 
general  statements  may  be  made : 

Itasca  is  simply  not  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi ;  a  perennial  stream 
connects  it  with  another  lake  nearly  as  large,  and  above  and  beyond  it- 


APPENDIX.  495 

The  largest  feeder  to  Lake  Itasca  is  7,307  feet  long  from  mouth  to 
source,  while  the  largest  feeder  to  Lake  Glazier  is  8,778  feet  from  mouth 
to  source,  and  at  the  same  time  its  mouth  is  8  907  feet  from  Itasca, 
making  its  total  length  of  water  surface  connection  with  Itasca  16,214 
feet.  In  view  of  all  these  facts,  it  is  evident  that  Lake  Glazier,  a  body 
255  acres  in  surface,  draining  the  basin  in  which  it  lies,  and  being  the 
most  remote  Reservoir  receiving  and  supplying  water  to  the  great 
stream,  should  be  held  to  be  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River. 

A.  Munsell. 

From  Winfield  Scott  Shure,   correspondent  of  the  Age, 

York,  Pennsylvania : 

Lake  Glazier,  Minnesota, 

August  31,  1891. 

Editor  the  Age:  This  morning  found  myself  and  tent-mate  up 
before  the  day,  coasting  Lake  Itasca  in  search  of  water-fowl.  We 
returned  before  breakfast  with  a  goodly  number,  but  before  doing  so 
paddled  our  canoe  down  the  Mississippi  a  few  rods  from  the  point  where 
the  river  leaves  Itasca,  and  after  viewing  the  winding  infant  stream,  and 
vainly  wishing  we  could  paddle  on  and  on  until  we  reached  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  retraced  our  course. 

As  the  dawn  grew  into  early  day,  and  the  sun  rose  in  all  his  splen- 
dor, a  gentle  breeze  came  from  the  south  and  fanned  the  mirror-like 
surface  of  the  lake  into  ripples,  and  ere  long  the  white-caps  ran  high. 
Wo  therefore  deemed  it  unadvisable  to  go  forward  with  our  freight,  or 
those  of  our  party  least  fitted  for  battling  with  a  storm;  but  our  leader, 
who  desired  to  again  gaze  on  the  beautiful  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca, 
called  for  two  volunteers  to  man  a  boat  and  take  him  and  his  daughter 
and  the  guide  across  the  lake.  Mr.  Trost  and  I  responded,  and  after 
coasting  it  for  more  than  an  hour,  paddled  into  the  mouth  of  the  Infant 
Mississippi — the  stream  flowing  from  Lake  Glazier  into  Lake  Itasca. 
Following  the  stream  until  we  encountered  a  fallen  tree  across  it,  we 
were  compelled  to  disembark. 

In  our  haste  to  see  the  Real  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters,  we 
hastened  to  a  point  from  which  the  guide  told  us  the  lake  could  be  seen. 
Mounting  the  crest  of  the  ridge,  I  took  a  sweeping  glance  at  the  lake 
before  us,  then  turned  my  attention  to  our  leader  and  his  daughter. 
Picture  in  your  mind  Captain  Glazier's  delight  as  he  realized  that  he 
had  again,  after  ten  years,  reached  this  spot,  and  had  been  able  to  bring 
with  him  men  from  all  parts  of  the  country;  men  who  would  honestly 
investigate,  and  who  were  competent  to  judge,  and  render  an  impartial 
decision  on  the  question  at  issue  between  him  and  his  critics.  Picture 
his  satisfaction  at  this  moment  when,  after  men  had  said,  "  There  is  no 
such  lake  in  existence;"  "nothing  but  a  mud-hole  which  dries  up 
entirely  in  the  summer;  "  "has  no  connection  with  Itasca,11  and  many 
other  things  of  like  character,  he  was  able  to  show  to  honest  men  a 
beautiful,  well-defined  lake,  running  off  In  the  distance  nearly  two  miles 
from  where  we  stood,  covering  an  area  of  255  acres,  and  connected  with 
Itasca  by  a  permanent  stream,  up  which  we  had  just  run  our  boat 
bearing  five  persons. 


496  APPENDIX. 

All  freight  and  passengers  had  been  landed  on  the  ridge,  a  camp-site 
selected,  tents  pitched,  and  many  of  the  odd  turns  necessary  to  camp 
comfort  had  been  attended  to,  and  when  finally  the  "Stars and  Stripes " 
had  been  hoisted  over  our  encampment,  and  the  shades  of  evening 
began  to  deepen  into  night,  we  were  settled  in  our  permanent  quarters- 
Camp  Trost. 

On  the  evening  of  the  above  date,  as  we  all  sat  around  the  camp-fire, 
our  leader  addressed  us  briefly,  referring  to  the  purposes  of  this,  his 
Second  Expedition,  and  the  pending  questions  for  settlement.  He  said 
his  desire  was  that  each  one  would  so  thoroughly  explore  the  country 
surrounding  the  Mississippi's  Source,  that  they  would  all  be  prepared 
and  qualified  to  render  an  intelligent  and  a  decided  verdict.  He  also 
expressed  his  willingness  to  place  the  result  entirely  in  our  hands. 

At  "roll-call'1  the  morning  of  August  twenty-fifth,  all  expressed  a 
desire  to  see  Pine  or  Nicollet  Creek,  to  which  a  pretended  investigator 
has  lately  tried  to  give  prominence,  and  to  that  point  we  first  directed 
our  steps.  The  surve3rors  chained  the  creek,  measured  its  width  and  the 
volume  of  water.  About  a  mile  from  the  point  where  it  enters  Itasca, 
we  came  to  a  pond  about  three  acres  in  area,  and  covered  with  lily- 
pads.  Passing  this  pond,  a  short  distance  farther  on  we  came  to  a 
second  lakelet.  These  two  ponds,  or  lakelets,  are  the  so-called  Nicollet's 
"First  and  Second  Lakes."  "Nicollet's  Third  Lake"  is  divided  from 
the  former  two  by  a  ridge  about  fifty  feet  high.  I  am  firmly  of  the  belief 
that  if  geographers  can  find  nothing  of  more  importance  beyond  Itasca 
than  Nicollet  Creek,  Schoolcraft's  lake  would  still  claim  its  old  distinc- 
tion. Going  farther  south  a  distance  of  six  miles,  we  came  to  Lakes 
Whipple,  The  Triplets,  Morrison,  and  Hernando  De  Soto,  in  turn,  the  last 
named  pronounced  by  the  "  investigator  "  above  referred  to  the  Source 
of  the  Mississippi.  Notwithstanding  all  traces  of  running  water  tribu- 
tary to  Itasca  had  stopped  at  "Nicollet's  Second  Lake,"  we  were  all 
curious  to  see  "Lake  Hernando  De  Soto."  Imagine  our  disgust  when, 
after  a  tramp  of  six  miles,  through  a  forest  almost  impassable,  which 
took  us  five  hours,  we  saw  the  lake— the  place  where  a  lake  had  been 
— a  lake  with  three  arms,  two  of  which  had  dried  up;  a  lake  having 
neither  inlet  nor  outlet.  We  felt  we  had  been  duped  by  misrepresenta- 
tion into  this  toilsome,  fruitless  journey.  We  next  turned  our  attention 
to  Laks  Glazier  and  its  feeders. 

One  by  one  the  questions  giving  motive  to  our  toilsome  undertaking 
are  answering  themselves.  There  is  a  lake  beyond  Itasca,  well  defined, 
and  surrounded  by  high  hills;  a  lake  with  five  permanent  feeders,  two 
of  which  have  their  origin  in  ponds  as  large  as  "Nicollet's  Second 
Lake."  Lake  Glazier,  the  one  referred  to,  has  an  average  sounding  of 
forty -five  feet,  and  a  surface  of  255  acres.  It  is  connected  with  Itasca 
by  a  stream  twenty  feet  in  width.  All  this  is  the  result  of  careful  surveys. 
After  a  thorough  investigation,  and  in  view  of  all  the  facts,  together 
with  full  cognizance  of  the  geographical  definition  of  the  source  of  a 
river,  I,  with  every  member  of  the  party,  am  prepared  to  say  that  Lake 
Glazier  is  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi;  that  Captain  Glazier  was  right 
in  1881,  as  has  been  verified  in  lb91.    He  was  the  first  to  coast  this  lake 


APPENDIX.  497 

and  explore  its  feeders,  and  the  first  to  establish  its  true  relation  to  the 
Mississippi.  He  was  the  first  to  map  it  and  its  affluents,  and  to  make  its 
existence  known  tq.geograph.ers  and  the  world.  Schoolcraft  was  not  the 
first  white  man  to  see  Itasca,  yet  he  was  the  first  to  connect  it  with  the 
Mississippi,  and  to  him  is  accorded  the  merit  of  the  discovery  of  the  sup- 
posed source.  In  like  manner  should  be  accorded  to  Captain  Glazier  the 
credit  of  discovering  the  True  Source  of  the  river. 

Saturday,  August  twenty  ninth,  our  investigations  at  the  Headwaters 
were  completed,  and  in  the  afternoon  we  all  assembled  on  the  picturesque 
promontory  at  the  southern  end  of  Lake  Glazier.  Here  the  Captain 
addressed  us,  and  reviewed  his  labors  in  1881,  and  ours  in  1891.  He 
appealed  to  us  in  the  strongest  terms  to  be  just,  candid,  and  unbiased 
in  rendering  our  verdict  to  the  public  as  to  what  we  honestly  believed  to 
be  the  extreme  head  or  True  Source  of  the  river. 

The  report  of  the  surveyors  was  then  read,  and  the  members  of  the 
party,  without  a,  single  exception,  expressed  their  fullest  concurrence 
with  it. 

Sunday  we  rested,  and  in  the  afternoon  religious  service  was  con- 
ducted by  Rev.  H.  Crane,  in  front  of  the  camp  and  facing  Lake  Glazier. 

August  thirty-first.  We  break  camp  this  morning  and  start  on  our 
journey  back  to  civilization  and  our  homes,  and  if  we  are  worn  and 
sunburnt,  we  are  all  most  happy  to  be  able  to  report  unconditional  suc- 
cess of  our  trip  in  every  particular.  The  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca, 
named  in  1881  Lake  Glazier,  is  beyond  question  the  Source  of  the 
Mississippi. 

W.  S.  Shure. 


32 


G. 

EDITORIAL  COMMENT. 

The  Second  Glazier  Expedition  to  the  Headwaters  of  the 
Mississippi  evoked  much  favorable  comment  fi  om  the  press. 
Credit  was  awarded  the  Explorer  for  his  praiseworthy  effort 
to  settle  the  long-disputed  question  of  the  True  Source  of  the 
Great  River  and  the  successful  issue  of  his  enterprise.  Cap- 
tain Glazier's  Report  in  full,  on  the  return  of  the  Expedition, 
was  addressed  to  many  of  the  Geographical  aDd  Historical 
Societies,  and  published  in  most  of  the  leading  journals  of  the 
country. 

Minnesota  enjoys  the  distinction  of  having  within  her  bor- 
ders the  cradle  of  the  mighty  river,  and  is  entitled  to  be  heard 
first.  Wc  therefore  quote  from  the  columns  of  her  hadiig 
journals,  beginning  wilh  the  Dispatch  of  Saint  Paul,  in'which 
the  following  editorial  introduced  the  Glazier  Report  on  the 
Results  of  the  Expedition  of  1891: 

"Elsewhere  in  to-day's  issue  of  the  Dispatch  is  given  the  Report  of 
Captain  Willard  Glazier  to  the  President  of  the  American  Geographical 
Society  upon  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River.  It  is  a  long  docu- 
ment, but  should  not  be  briefly  glanced  at  on  that  account.  Captain  Gla- 
zier has  the  pleasing  faculty  of  arranging  facts  and  figures  in  a  most 
effective  and  entertaining  manner,  and  of  expressing  himself  clearly 
and  forcibly.  There  is  not  a  dry  or  prosy  sentence  in  the  whole  of  this 
Report.  It  presents  in  very  interesting  form  all  the  information  which 
has  been  gathered  relative  to  an  important  geographical  question  upon 
which  there  has  been  some  little  difference  of  opinion. 

"The  main  points  of  the  dispute  about  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi 
are  quite  generally  known,  and  the  corroborative  light  which  is  now 
thrown  on  the  claim  made  by  Captain  Glazier,  after  his  first  visit  in  1381 
will  be  received  and  read  with  a  great  deal  of  satisfaction  by  the  many 
who  have  felt  all  along  that  he  was  in  the  right.  Even  should  the  facts 
now  published  not  be  accepted  by  the  opponents  of  the  Captain — and  so 
bitter  and  unreasoning  is  their  hostility  to  him  that  it  is  probable  they 
will  decline  to  accept  even  this  Report— the  public  in  general  will  have 
benefited  much  by  his  explorations. 

"  The  Report  opens  with  a  succinct  review  of  the  situation  prior  to 
(498) 


APPENDIX.  499 


and  after  his  Exploration  of  lc81.  Lake  Itasca  had  long  borne  the  credit 
of  being  the  head  of  the  Great  River,  but  Captain  Glazier  was  led  to  the 
belief  that  an  error  had  been  made,  and  that  the  True  Source  lay  beyond 
Itasca.  On  the  twenty-second  of  July,  1881,  he  located  a  basin  of  water 
south  of  Itasca  as  the  Primal  Reservoir,  and  made  public  his  discovery. 
This  lake  has  been  since  known  as  Lake  Glazier.  Its  Indian  name  was 
Pokegama— the  '  place  where  the  waters  gather.'  His  announcement  of 
the  finding  of  a  Reservoir  beyond  Itasca  was  greeted  with  a  storm  of 
criticism  and  unbelief  by  unfriendly  and  jealous  parties,  and  he  has  had 
to  stand  the  abuse  of  those  who  had  no  ground  for  argument.  '  The  antag- 
onism,1 he  says,  '  thus  developed  by  an  honest  attempt  to  establish  a  geo- 
graphical truth,  together  with  the  fact  that,  even  at  this  late  day,  some 
of  our  leading  educators  still  believe  in  the  error  of  Lake  Itasca,  led  me 
to  decide  upon  another  visit  to  the  Itasca  Basin,  having  for  its  object 
the  most  thorough  investigation  and  a  final  settlement  of  the  vexed 
question  which  had  occupied  the  attention  of  geographers  for  over  ten 
years.' 

"  He  then  proceeds  to  describe  his  preparations  for  the  Second 
Expedition,  and  introduces  us  to  the  members  of  his  party,  all  gentle- 
men of  education  and  good  standing,  whose  indorsement  or  refutation 
might  be  accepted  without  question.  They  set  out  on  August  seven- 
teenth, 1891,  and  lost  no  time  in  making  their  way  to  the  scene  of  action. 

"  Having  reviewed  the  explorations  of  those  who  preceded  his  earlier 
visit,  and  briefly  referred  to  recent  investigations,  he  presents  in  detail, 
from  his  daily  field-notes,  the  observations  of  his  Second  Expedition. 
One  noticeable  feature  of  these  field-notes  is  the  very  evident  desire 
manifested  by  Captain  Glazier  to  be  accurate  in  all  his  measurements 
and  thorough  in  his  investigations.  Honesty  of  purpose  is  everywhere 
apparent.  The  daily  work  is  minutely,  but  not  tediously,  described,  and 
the  Report  embraces  a  vast  quantity  of  valuable  information.  Sub- 
joined to  it  are  the  individual  indorsements  of  all  the  members  of  the 
party. 

"Whatever  may  be  the  final  outcome  of  the  investigation,  it  can  not 
be  successfully  disputed  that  Captain  Willard  Glazier  has  done  more  than 
any  other  explorer  to  demonstrate  the  absolute  correctness  of  the  loca- 
tion of  the  Head  of  the  Mississippi.  More  than  ten  years  ago  he  fitted 
out  an  Expedition  at  great  expense,  and  after  careful  research  and  scien- 
tific investigation  presented  the  results  of  his  explorations,  tending 
to  overthrow  the  established  or  accepted  claim  that  Lake  Itasca  was  the 
Fountain-head  of  the  Great  River.  His  exhaustive  treatise  was  at  once 
made  a  theme  of  universal  discussion,  and  for  a  considerable  period  it 
was  the  one  important  question  written  and  talked  about  by  the  leading 
geographical  students  of  the  country.  Like  all  modern  innovations, 
however,  Captain  Glazier's  claims  were  subjected  to  severe  and  search- 
ing criticism,  and  by  some  to  ridicule  and  virulent  opposition. 

•"Who  was  this  daring  discoverer  who  ventured  to  take  issue  with 
the  history  and  traditions  of  the  early  decades? ' 

"The  fact  that  the  published  reports  of  Captain  Glazier  raised  such 
a  cyclonic  outburst  was  in  itself  sufficient  to  prove  that  his  claims  were 


500  APPENDIX. 

worthy  of  consideration,  and  notwithstanding  the  pronounced  opposition 
of  a  few  whose  opinions  were  considered  valuable,  the  new  theory  was 
accepted  by  most  of  the  leading  geographers. 

"  Thus  the  contention  has  been  going  on  ever  since  the  First  Expedition 
of  1881.  Last  summer  Captain  Glazier  again  organized  an  expedition 
and  spent  some  time  at  the  Headwaters,  with  the  result  that  every 
member  of  his  expedition  confirmed  his  claim  in  regard  to  the  True 
Source  of  the  River." 


The  Winona  Republican  in  February,  1892,  published 
Captain  Glazier's  report  in  full,  preceded  by  the  following 
editorial: 

"The  Report  of  Captain  Willard  Glazier's  Second  Expedition  to  the 
Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  herewith  published,  is  a  paper  of  suffi- 
cient popular  interest  to  insure  for  it  a  general  and  an  attentive  perusal. 
The  circumstances  attending  this  second  visit  of  Captain  Glazier  to  the 
Source  of  the  Great  River  are  more  or  less  familiar  to  the  readers  of  the 
Republican,  but  in  the  Report  now  made;  public  they  are  so  succinctly 
yet  clearly  reviewed  as  to  give  the  narrative  a  new  and  personal  interest 
that  attached  to  no  preceding  reference  to  the  subject  under  notice. 
For  half  a  century  Lake  Itasca  had  been  regarded  as  the  source  of  the 
Mississippi,  but  Captain  Glazier  was  led  to  the  belief  that  an  error  had 
been  made,  and  that  the  True  Source  lay  beyond.  In  July,  1881,  he 
personally  visited  the  Headwaters,  and  after  a  close  and  careful  explora- 
tion located  a  lake  south  of  Itasca  as  the  Primal  Reservoir.  This  lake, 
known  to  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  that  region  as  Pokegama,  has 
since  been  placed  on  many  maps,  and  is  generally  designated  Lake 
Glazier.  The  claim  of  Captain  Glazier  to  having  made  this  discovery 
was  vigorously  contested  by  certain  interested  parties,  and  the  dis- 
coverer subjected  to  the  severest  personal  criticism.  Undismayed  by 
the  assaults  made  upon  him,  Captain  Glazier  determined  to  fortify  his 
position  by  a  second  and  still  more  thorough  investigation.  On  this 
occasion  he  was  accompanied  by  a  party  of  gentlemen  of  education  and 
high  standing  in  the  several  communities  where  they  reside,  whose 
indorsement  or  disproof  of  his  views  might  be  regarded  as  conclusive 
in  relation  to  all  the  physical  facts  coming  under  observation.  The 
result  is  now  before  the  public  and  the  testimony  should  be  weighed 
according  to  its  merit.  It  is  particularly  to  be  noted  in  perusing  Captain 
Glazier's  Report  that  his  observations  were  carried  on  with  much  care 
and  apparent  accuracy.  The  measurements  were  made  by  an  expert, 
and  all  the  investigations  were  participated  in,  and  are  unqualifiedly 
indorsed  by  the  individual  members  of  the  party.  Honesty  of  purpose 
is  manifest  throughout. 

"  Amid  all  the  contention  and  doubt,  thus  far  one  thing  is  certain:  No 
such  careful  and  thorough  exploration  of  the  Headwaters  of  the  Missis- 
sippi has  been  made  by  any  other  investigator  as  that  recently  com- 
pleted by  Captain  Glazier.  If,  in  the  interest  of  historic  truth  and  geo- 
graphical accuracy,  his  claim  is  to  be  frowned  down,  the  evidence  upon 


APPENDIX.  501 

whrch  it  is  done  ought  not  to  be  less  trustworthy  or  convincing  than  that 
presented  in  his  behalf.  "We  strongly  recommend  a  careful  perusal  of 
his  Report,  which  is  addressed  to  the  Hon.  Charles  P.  Daly,  LL.  D., 
President  of  the  American  Geographical  Society.11 

From  the  Washington  Star: 

"  The  question  of  what  lake  or  stream  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Father 
of  Waters  is  one  that  has  agitated  geographers  for  several  years.  The 
inclination  is  to  accept  the  results  of  Captain  Willard  Glazier's  explora- 
tions—that of  1881,  confirmed  and  extended  by  that  of  1891— as  conclusive. 
The  h'story  of  the  discovery  of  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  while  not 
so  thrilling  as  the  history  of  the  discovery  of  the  source  of  the  Nile,  is 
more  interesting  and  important  to  Americans. 

"  Before  Schoolcraf fs  report  of  1832,  the  existence  of  the  Source 
in  Lake  Itasca,  or  its  vicinity,  was  not  known.  Although  several  sur- 
veys were  made  subsequently,  it  was  not  until  the  Glazier  Expedition  of 
July,  1881,  that  the  Source  was  finally  located  south  of  Itasca  in  a  com- 
paratively large  lake  called  after  the  discoverer.  If  geographers  were 
not  inclined  to  trace  the  sources  of  rivers,  where  possible,  to  lakes, 
rather  than  to  flowing  streams,  Excelsior  Creek,  the  longest  feeder  of 
Lake  Glazier,  would  be  considered  justly  as  the  Fountain-head  of  the 
Great  River  of  North  America.11 

From  the  Davr  nport  Democrat: 

"  Dr.  Charles  E.  Harrison  is  at  home  again  after  his  wanderings 
about  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  as  a  member  of  the  Glazier 
party,  representing  the  Davenport  Academy  of  Sciences.  He  had  fully 
as  interesting  and  instructive  a  trip  as  he  expected,  and  is  glad  he  went. 

"  The  party  was  composed  of  between  fifteen  and  twenty  persons, 
among  them  Miss  Alice  Glazier,  the  only  daughter  of  the  head  of  the 
Expedition.  The  start  was  made  from  Minneapolis,  August  seventeenth. 
The  train  was  left  at  Park  Rapids,  and  wagons  were  ta1.  en  to  Lake 
Itasca,  which  was  reached  August  twenty-third.  The  wagon  journey 
was  fraught  with  much  interest,  but  not  with  much  comfort.  The  party 
walked  by  preference.  They  do  not  have  paved  streets  up  there,  but 
some  of  the  roughest  country  to  be  found  in  the  Mississippi  Valley;  no 
settlers,  no  roads,  no  civilization;  but  wilderness,  hard  work,  deer,  and 
bears.    A  member  of  the  party  shot  a  bear  en  route. 

"Camps  were  pitched  after  the  first  day  on  a  height  of  land  sepa- 
rating Lake  Itasca  from  Lake  Glazier.  Thence  the  party  explored  the 
region.  The  two  surveyors  went  ahead  and  the  members  of  the  party 
followed.  Dr.  Harrison  saw  enough  to  convince  him  that  Captain  Gla- 
zier has  a  valid  claim  to  the  honor  of  being  the  man  to  make  the  first 
announcement  that  Lake  Itasca  is  not  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  but 
that  the  other  lake  to  the  south  of  it  is.  Lake  Itasca  had  been  visited 
by  white  men  at  the  very  opening  of  the  nineteenth  century,  but  it 
remained  for  Schoolcraft,  in  1832,  to  make  the  announcement  that  it  was 
the  source.  Captain  Glazier  was  the  man  to  make  formal  announcement 
of  the  fact  that  the  lake  to  the  south,  and  not  Itasca,  is  the  True  Source. 


502  APPENDIX. 


Dr.  Harrison  is  well  satisfied  that  Lake  Itasca  has  little  relation  to  the 
Mississippi  beyond  that  possessed  by  Lake  Pepin;  the  river  simply  flows 
through  it.  The  members  of  the  party,  after  looking  over  all  the  ground 
in  the  most  careful  manner,  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  claim  of  the 
Captain  is  well  founded,  and  that  the  majority  of  the  geographers  have 
done  the  right  thing  in  following  his  lead  as  they  have  done.  Dr. 
Harrison  says  he  went  there  with  the  intention  to  be  critical  and  find 
fault,  if  there  were  any  evidences  of  crooked  work  on  the  part  of  Cap- 
tain Glazier,  but  admits  that  all  was  fair  and  square,  and  there  is  nothing 
to  indicate  that  Captain  Glazier  is  not  fully  entitled  to  the  credit  he 
claims.11 

From  the  Minneapolis  Times: 

"  Lake  Glazier  is  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River. 

°  That  is  the  unanimous  verdict  of  the  gentlemen  who  have  just 
returned  from  an  Expedition  to  the  Headwaters  of  the  Great  River. 
They  have  made  a  report  of  their  explorations  in  which  facts  are  given 
which  establish  to  their  satisfaction  the  fallacy  of  all  other  theories. 
That  Lake  Itasca  is  only  the  approximate  source  of  the  Mississippi  has 
long  been  known.  The  real  source  has  been  the  subject  of  a  long  dis- 
pute among  geographers.  Itasca  is  fed  by  running  water,  and  the 
Ultimate  Source  of  the  Mississippi  could  only  be  ascertained  by  tracing 
the  •  sources '  of  Itasca.  In  1881,  Captain  Willard  Glazier  explored  the 
waters  about  Lake  Itasca,  and  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  lake  now 
known  as  Lake  Giazier  was  the  actual  source  of  the  big  river.  Then 
some  one  else  traced  Nicollet  Creek  up  to  the  three  Nicollet  ponds,  and 
made  the  contention  that  the  real  source  of  the  Mississippi  was  the  last 
of  these  ponds,  misnamed  lakes.  The  same  party  afterward  changed 
his  mind  and  pronounced  '  Lake  Hernando  De  Soto '  to  be  the  Source. 
Captain  Glazier  has  never  weakened  on  his  theory  that  th  *.  Glazier  Lake 
is  the  real  Source,  and  the  party  above  referred  to  has  stubbornly 
argued  in  favor  of  the  •  De  Soto  Lake.1  The  controversy  has  awakened 
great  interest  throughout  the  country.  A  short  time  ago  a  party  was 
organized  to  explore  the  Headwaters  of  the  river  and  ascertain  the  facts 
relating  thereto.  Captain  Glazier  headed  the  expedition,  but  none  of  the 
gentlemen  who  accompanied  him  were  prejudiced  or  influenced  in  any 
way.  It  was  a  large  party,  composed  of  geographers,  scientists,  editors, 
surveyors,  and  men  of  good  standing,  all  of  whom,  we  are  informed, 
were  strangers  to  Captain  Glazier. 

"  The  trip  through  the  wilderness  from  Park  Rapids  to  the  Headwaters 
was  by  no  means  a  pleasant  one.  It  was  slow  and  tedious  work  to  get 
the  horses  and  wagons  through  the  wild  forest,  and  the  trail  was  so  rough 
that  the  travelers  found  it  necessary  to  walk  the  greater  part  of  the  dis- 
tance. After  a  two  days1  tramp  the  expedition  reached  the  east  arm  of 
Lake  Itasca  about  noon  on  Saturday,  August  twenty-second.  After  a 
short  rest  they  launched  their  canoes  and  conveyed  themselves  and 
their  chattels  to  Schoolcraft  Island,  on  which  they  pitched  their  tents 
Saturday  evening.  The  party  remained  on  the  island  over  Sunday. 
They  were  a  very  tired  lot  of  people,  and  a  Sunday's  rest  was  never  so 
much  appreciated  by  them  before. 


APPENDIX.  503 


"  The  party  removed  their  tents  from  Schoolcraft  Island  to  the  shore 
of  Lake  Glazier  Monday  morning,  and  encamped  on  the  high  ridge  sep- 
arating that  lake  from  Lake  Itasca.  Then  began  the  work  of  exploring 
the  waters.  They  made  a  careful  examination  of  Lake  Itasca,  and  found 
that  it  had  no  affluents  of  any  consequence  except  Nicollet  Creek  and 
the  stream  that  connected  Itasca  with  Lake  Glazier.  Nicollet  Creek  was 
traced  to  the  Nicollet  ponds,  as  far  as  there  was  running  water.  The 
distance  was  carefully  measured,  and  it  proved  to  be  7,309£  feet  from 
Lake  Itasca  to  the  farthest  of  the  Nicollet  lakelets.  Then  considerable 
time  was  spent  in  examining  Lake  Glazier  and  its  feeders. 

"  It  was  ascertained  that  Excelsior  Creek  was  the  longest  one  flowing 
into  Lake  Glazier,  it  measuring  8,778  feet.  The  distance  from  the  mouth 
of  Excelsior  Crei»k  to  the  creek  connecting  Glazier  and  Itasca  lakes  was 
found  to  be  4,229  feet.  The  length  of  the  connecting  creek  measured 
1,100  feet.  This  made  a  total  distance  of  14,107  feet  from  Lake  Itasca  to 
the  source  of  Excelsior  Creek.  Therefore,  if  the  source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi is  the  farthest  point  from  whence  there  is  running  water,  it  stands 
out  clearly  that  the  source  of  Excelsior  Creek  is  the  source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. And  as  Excelsior  Creek  is  merely  a  feeder  to  Lake  Glazier,  that 
lake  should  figure  as  the  Real  Source  of  the  Great  River.  These  were  the 
conclusions  of  all  the  members  of  the  expedition,  without  exception. 

"  The  expedition  did  not  overlook  the  '  De  Soto  Lake.'  A  long  tramp 
from  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Glazier  over  a  swampy  ridge  brought  the 
party  to  this  so-called  lake.  They  made  a  thorough  examination  of  it, 
and  failed  to  find  that  it  had  either  inlet  or  outlet.  In  fact,  the  party 
became  thoroughly  convinced  that  the  •  De  Soto '  was  nothing  more 
than  a  dead  lake  or  pond.  How  any  of  its  boggy  water  could  possibly 
reach  the  Mississippi  is  a  question  they  were  unable  to  solve." 

From  the  Philadelphia  Telegraph: 

"  The  Second  Glazier  Expedition  to  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi 
River  returned  to  Park  Rapids,  Minnesota,  last  evening.  The  party 
claims  that  the  Glazier  Lake  is  the  Real  Source  of  the  Great  River  of 
North  America.  It  was  found  to  cover  an  area  of  255  acres,  and  is  con- 
nected with  Lake  Itasca  by  a  creek  about  1, 100  feet  long.  The  lake  is  fed 
by  four  tributaries,  besides  which  streams  there  are,  on  the  east  shore, 
several  iron  springs.  The  only  other  important  feeder  of  Lake  Itasca  is 
Nicollet  Creek,  which  enters  Itasca  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  west  of  the 
outlet  of  the  creek  from  Glazier  Lake.  Itasca  is  supplied  by  two  princi- 
pal affluents.  One  of  these,  Nicollet  Creek,  drains  a  tamarack  swamp, 
has  nothing  worthy  of  the  name  of  a  lake  i  i  its  course,  and  has  a  source 
7,307  feet  from  Itasca.  The  other  is  a  narrower  stream,  but  flows  from 
a  fine  lake,  the  source  of  whose  remote  feeder  is  14,106  feet  from  Itasca.,, 

From  the  Dubuque  Trade  Journal: 

"  It  is  a  singular  fact  that  neither  governments  nor  religious  associa- 
tions have  ever  achieved  anything  remarkable  in  aid  of  discovery  in 
either  the  realm  of  abstract  or  concrete  science.  History  shows  that 
individual  energy  and  talent  have  always  led  in  innovations  a::d  the 
establishment  of  principles  that  make  for  truth  and  the  enlightenment 


504  APPENDIX. 

and  welfare  of  mankind.  On  the  part  of  the  Government,  when  not 
willing  to  be  a  bar  to  progress,  and  designedly  obstructive,  its  efforts  are 
usually  placed  in  the  hands  of  mediocre  persons  because  they  happen  to 
be  partisans  seeking  the  emoluments  of  position  and  influence.  Religious 
associations,  being  sectarian  and  dogmatic,  are  apprehensive,  and  fear 
the  least  interference  with  their  doctrines,  mysteries,  and  faith.  Within 
their  domain  anything  conceived  to  be  like  •  vain  babblings  and  opposi- 
tions of  science  falsely  so-called,1  is  not  tolerated,  and  short  work  is 
made  of  it  by  persecution.  The  reason  of  all  this  is  not  inscrutable,  for 
neither  science  nor  philosophy  is  within  their  purview.  The  proper 
functions  of  government  are  the  conservation  of  the  State  and  the  pro- 
tection of  life,  liberty,  and  property  of  the  individual,  as  far  as  may  be 
consistent  with  the  enjoyment  of  the  same  rights  by  others.  The 
function  of  the  religionist  is  to  conserve  the  faith  and  practice  its  duties. 

"  It  is  the  individual  initiative,  self-denying,  and  laborious  action  that 
solves  difficult  problems,  makes  successful  discoveries,  and  accomplishes 
anything  that  ultimately  results  in  increasing  knowledge.  That  their 
efforts  should  ever  be  interfered  with,  cramped,  or  impaired  by  hire- 
lings of  official  and  corporate  regulation,  is  indeed  to  be  regretted  by 
every  one  who  sincerely  desires  the  benefit  of  truth  and  the  welfare  of 
his  race. 

"  An  instance  of  the  kind  alluded  to  is  now  presented  in  Minnesota.  A 
controversy  is  raging  there  concerning  the  True  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi River,  between  Captain  Willard  Glazier  and  the  Minnesota  His- 
torical Society.  The  latter  claims  to  be  a  '  co-ordinate  branch  of  the 
State  Government,1  and  its  partisan  officials  leisurely  enjoy  place  and 
profit.  Long  ago  the  Society  heard  that  Itasca  was  a  lake  in  their  State, 
which  Schoolcraft  visited  in  1832,  and  supposed  it  to  be  the  Source  of 
the  Mississippi  River.  This,  the  paid  employes  of  the  Historical  Society 
accepted  without  disturbance  to  its  somnolent  movements,  and  rested  in 
contented  ignorance  of  the  True  Source,  as  well  as  of  everything  else  in 
that  region.  The  chronic  hypnotism  of  the  Society  continued  until  1881, 
when  Captain  Willard  Glazier,  a  New  Yorker,  having  doubts  about 
Itasca  being  verily  the  source,  explored  the  Headwaters  of  the  river,  and 
exploded  the  error.  This  being  a  geographical  matter,  and  the  fact  of 
the  newly  discovered  Source  a  geographical  truth,  one  is  puzzled  to  know 
what  a  purely  historical  society  had  to  do  with  it.  Nevertheless,  the 
Society  aroused  itself  from  its  Rip  Van  Winkle  slumbers,  and  boldly 
proclaimed  a  denial,  and  stoutly  insisted  that  Itasca  was  the  ultimate 
origin.  Since  then,  at  the  expense  of  the  tax-payers,  some  examination 
about  and  beyond  Itasca  has  been  made  under  the  management  of  one 
J.  V.  Brower.  It  was  clearly  seen  that  Itasca  must  go  out  into  the  cold. 
But  jealousy  of  the  foreigner  would  not  permit  the  acceptance  of  his 
discovery,  and  another  Source  of  the  river  must  be  devised.  So,  entirely 
ignoring  the  beautiful  Lake  Glazier,  255  acres  in  area,  the  Minnesota 
Falstaff  first  glanced  at  'the  clouds,  the  source  of  all  our  rivers,1 
then  traced  a  feeder  of  Itasca  a  short  distance  through  two  ponds  to  a 
spring  at  the  foot  of  a  hill.  Hypothetically,  the  hill  was  tunneled, 
and  onward  the  hero  went.     Isolated  bogs,  ponds,  and  lakelets  were 


APPENDIX.  505 

found,  all  within  a  compass  of  five  or  six  miles  square,  and  situated  in  a 
general  depression  of  ground.  Archaeological  science  now  seized 
Brower,  and  to  his  imagination  a  glacier  once  roughly  scooped  out 
this  region  in  which  pools,  rills,  Lake  Glazier,  Lake  Itasca— all— are  now 
situated.  The  huge  chunk  of  ice  on  melting  formed  a  prehistoric  lake, 
which  has  since  subsided  to  the  present  aspect  of  the  locality  of  the 
Headwaters  of  America's  most  noted  river.  This  he  proudly  named 
4  Lake  Upham,1  divided  it  into  '  Greater,  Midway,  and  Lesser  Ultimate 
Reservoir  Bowls,1  and  presented  his  farrago  to  the  Minnesota  Historical 
Society,  as  'Itasca  Basin,  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi.1  Finally,  the 
learned  theorizer  suggested  to  his  employers  that  a  '  legislative  enact- 
ment prohibit  unauthorized,  erroneous,  and  deceptive  changes  in  the 
State  map,  so  assiduously  persisted  in  from  mercenary  (!)  motives.1 

"Now,  gentle  reader,  when  you  have  perused  the  foregoing,  just 
remember  that  while  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society  was  in  happy 
ignorance  of  any  topography  beyond  Lake  Itasca,  Captain  Willard  Gla- 
zier entered  those  northern  wilds  and  found  a  beautiful  body  of  water 
beyond  Itasca,  and  connected  with  it  by  a  perennial  stream.  He  correctly 
mapped  its  feeders,  stated  its  relation  to  Itasca,  and  pronounced  that 
body  of  water  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  This  is  what  the 
Society,  by  its  instrument,  Brower,  seeks  to  supplant  by  substituting  the 
dried  bed  of  an  extinct,  hypothetic,  prehistoric  lake,  from  whosa  now 
three  arid  and  jack-pine  covered  '  ultimate  reservoir  bowls 1  water  is 
supposed  to  ooze  into  Lakes  Glazier  and  Itasca.  Than  this  can  vagary 
farther  go?11 

From  the  Chicago  Inter  Ocean: 

"  The  controversy  as  to  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River  has  placed 
before  the  public  a  vast  amount  of  new  information  of  an  interesting 
character.  In  1881,  Captain  Willard  Glazier  made  an  Expedition  to  the 
Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  and  announced  that  he  had  discovered 
that  Lake  Itasca  could  not  be  regarded  as  the  True  Source  of  the  Great 
River.  He  found  a  fine  lake  to  the  south  of  Lake  Itasca,  since  called 
Lake  Glazier— and  which  he  claimed  was  the  True  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, 3,184  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  with  an  elevation  above  the 
ocean  of  1,582  feet.  Captain  Glazier  started  from  Brainerd,  Minnesota, 
on  the  twelfth  of  July,  1881,  intending  to  go  to  Lake  Itasca,  or  the  Head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi,  and  make  a  canoe  voyage  to  the  Gulf.  In  the 
course  of  this  expedition  he  discovered  the  new  lake  to  the  south  of 
Itasca.  He  started  from  there  in  a  canoe,  and  made  the  long  journey 
down  the  Mississippi,  reaching  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  November  fifteenth. 
On  his  return  he  published  the  narrative  of  this  expedition,  and  claimed 
the  discovery  of  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 

"August  seventeenth  last,  Captain  Glazier  and  several  gentlemen, 
interested  in  the  question  of  the  Source  of  the  Great  River,  left  Minne- 
apolis to  make  a  second  survey.  They  made  a  careful  investigation  of 
Lake  Glazier,  and  in  their  Report  pronounce  it  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
water  over  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length  and  nearly  as  wide,  in  extent 
265  acres,  its  depth  forty-five  feet.    Lake  Glazier  is  connected  with 


506  APPENDIX. 

Itasca  by  a  permanent  stream  1,100  feet  long.  This  has  a  brisk  current, 
and  carried  enough  water  to  afford  passage  to  the  boats  between  the  two 
lakes.  The  Glazier  Lake  is  fed  by  four  tributaries,  the  largest  of  which 
is  Excelsior  Creek,  one  mile  and  five-eighths  long.  A  careful  report  is 
also  made  of  Nicollet  Creek.  The  first  of  the  Nicollet '  Lakes '  is  described 
as  a  pond  of  about  three  acres;  the  second,  a  lakelet  about  twelve  acres 
in  extent;  the  third,  beyond  a  high  ridge,  is  about  ten  acres  in  extent. 
The  party  of  explorers  unanimously  decide  in  favor  of  Lake  Glazier 
as  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi." 

From  the  Albany  Knickerbocker: 

"Ever  since  Captain  Glazier  announced  that  the  True  Source  of  the 
Father  of  Waters  was  not  the  Itasca  Lake,  in  contravention  of  the  geog- 
raphers, he  has  been  made  the  target  of  muc  1  scientific  and  non- 
scientific  abuse.  This  has  frequently  been  the  lot  of  discoverers  and 
explorers,  from  Columbus  to  Mungo  Park— even  down  to  our  own 
Stanley. 

"We  learn  from  the  Saint  Paul  Dispatch  that  the  Glazi:  r  Expedition 
was  in  camp  on  the  northern  shore  of  Lake  Glazier,  Minnesota,  August 
twenty-fifth.  A  member  of  the  exploring  party  writes  to  our  contem- 
porary an  interesting  account  of  the  expedition  which  is  being  made  by 
wagon  from  Park  Rapids,  the  nearest  civilized  point  to  the  Head  of  the 
River.  The  party  was  organized  to  investigate  the  grounds  upon  which 
Captain  Glazier  bases  his  claim  to  have  located  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  is  composed  of  several  scientists  and  geographers.  The 
correspondent  of  the  Dispatch,  whose  impartiality  may  be  reasonably 
supposed  to  be  above  question,  has  this  to  say  on  the  merits  of  the 
controversy: 

"  lI  may  here  remark  that  I  have  but  little  faith  in  Mr.  Brower's  nu- 
merous and  fantastical  sources.  I  have  carefully  watched  the  nature  and 
progress  of  his  controversy  with  Captain  Glazier,  and  can  scarcely  attrib- 
ute his  errors  to  misinformation,  but  rather  to  an  unworthy  desire  to 
disprove  by  any  means,  fair  or  foul,  Glazier's  claim  to  have  definitely 
located  the  True  Source  of  the  river  in  1881.  I  believe  Mr.  Brower  has, 
at  different  times,  announced  several  lakes  and  ponds  as  sources  of  the 
Mississippi.  The  conclusion  is  forced  upon  me  that  he  is  most  probably 
no  nearer  the  truth  in  his  last  venture — some  particulars  of  which  are 
given  in  his  report  to  his  Excellency  the  Governor— than  he  was  in  his 
first.  Captain  Glazier,  on  the  other  hand,  in  1881,  announced  to  the 
world  that  the  Source  of  our  majestic  river  was  unquestionably  in  a  lake 
of  comparatively  large  dimensions  lying  to  the  south  of  Itasca  Lake,  and 
persistently  adheres  to  his  announcement,  with  the  full  force  of  con- 
viction, at  the  present  day.  Nothing  can  move  him  from  his  position ; 
not  even  the  wooden  '  monument '  erected  by  his  ambitious  adversary 
on  the  crest  of  the  ridge  which  separates  Itasca  from  the  True  Source, 
by  which  it  is  conspicuously  evident  that  Mr.  Brower  hopes  to  perpetuate 
his  own  name  as  the  chronicler  of  a  proved  error  innocently  made  by  the 
ethnologist  Schoolcraft.  I  have  very  little  doubt  that  Captain  Glazier's 
position  on  this  question  will  eventually  be  confirmed  by  the  unanimous 
concurrence  of  geographers  and  competent  judges.1  " 


(507) 


H 

INDORSEMENT. 

In  this  last  section  of  the  Appendix,  I  respectfully  pre- 
sent for  the  reader's  consideration  the  indorsements  and  views, 
First,  of  persons  long  resident  in  Minnesota,  to  whom  the 
question  of  the  Source  of  the  Great  River  may  be  supposed  to 
be  one  of  more  than  ordinary  interest ;  and  who,  from  their 
proximity  to  its  Headwaters,  are,  doubtless,  in  some  respects 
better  qualified  to  pronounce  upon  the  weight  of  evidence 
adduced  in  support  of  the  Glazier  claim.  Secondly,  the 
Indorsements  of  geographers,  educational  publishers,  and 
others  who  have  given  attention  to  the  subject  and  arrived  at 
decided  conclusions;  and  Thirdly,  the  unanimous  testimony 
of  the  Committee  of  Investigation  of  the  Second  Glazier 
Expedition,  who  thoroughly  examined  and  surveyed  every 
lake,  pond,  and  stream,  and  every  foot  of  ground  at  the 
Head  of  the  river,  with  the  single  object  of  locating  its  True 
Source. 

I. 

RESIDENTS  OF  MINNESOTA. 
From  Hon.  A.  R.  McGill,  Ex-Governor: 
"Captain  Glazier's  claim  to  be  the  discoverer  of  the  True  Source  of 
the  Mississippi  seems  reasonable,  to  say  the  least.  I  have  been  a  resi- 
dent of  Minnesota  twenty-six  years,  and  never  until  Captain  Glazier's 
expedition  heard  the  claim  of  Itasca  being  the  Source  of  the  Great  River 
seriously  questioned." 

From  Hon.  Horace  Austin,  Ex-Governor: 
"I  think  that  it  would  be  a  very  proper  thing  to  do  under  the  circum- 
stances that  Captain  Glazier's  services  should  ^e  recognized  by  tie  pas- 
sage of  a  bill  by  the  Legislature  giving  his  name  to  the  lake  which  is  the 
Real  Source  of  the  Mississippi.'11 

From  Hon.  W.  H.  Gale,  Ex-Lieutenant-Governor,  Winona: 
"I  have  been  a  resident  of  Minnesota  for  more  than  twenty-eight 
years,  and  I  believe  it  was  the  generally  accepted  opinion  of  the  people 

(508) 


APPENDIX.  509 

of  this  State  that  Lake  Itasca  WuS  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
until  after  the  expedition  of  Captain  Willard  Glazier,  and  his  publication 
to  the  world  tbat  another  lake  south  of  Lake  Itasca  was  the  True  Source, 
to  which  lake  has  been  given  the  name  of  Lake  Glazier.  This  is  now 
generally  recognized  as  the  True  Source  and  Head  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
Captain  Glazier  as  the  man  who  first  made  known  that  fact  to  the 
world.11 

From  F.  W.  Seeley,  Adjutant-General: 

"I  desire  to  say,  in  justice  to  Captain  Glazier,  that,  having  beua 
resident  of  Minnesota  for  twenty-five  years,  and  quite  familiar  with 
the  geography  of  the  State,  it  is  my  belief  that  he  was  the  first  to  dis- 
cover the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River  and  publish  it  to  the 
world.11 


From  Moses  E.  Clapp,  Attorney-General: 

"From  such  information  as  I  have  on  the  subject,  I  am  convinced 
that  the  actual  Source  of  the  Mississippi  had  not  been  recognized  prior 
to  the  published  accounts  of  the  explorations  of  Captain  Willard 
Glazier.11 


From  H.  W.  Child's,  Assistant  Attorney-General: 

"There  is,  in  my  opinion,  no  reason  or  ground  for  disputing  Captain 
Glazier's  claim  to  have  located  the  body  of  water  now  undoubtedly 
regarded  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and  appropriately  named 
Lake  Glazier.11 


From  Gus.  H.  Beaulieu,  Deputy  U.  S.  Marshal,  District  of  Minnesota: 

"Having  been  Lorn  and  raised  in  the  State  of  Minnesota,  and  a  resi- 
dent of  White  Earth  Indian  Reservation,  and  being  familiar  with  the 
Indian  traditions,  I  certify  that  Itasca  Lake  had  never  been  considered 
the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  by  the  best-informed  Chippewa  Indians. 
Although  I  had  never  seen  any  published  maps  to  the  contrary,  prior  to 
the  expedition  of  Captain  Glazier  in  1881,  from,  the  best  information  I 
have  among  the  Indians,  I  now  regard  Lake  Glazier  as  the  True  Source 
of  the  Mississippi  River.  I  regard  h.'s  chief  guide,  Chenowagesic,  as  the 
best  authority  among  the  Indians  regarding  the  s  ction  of  country  about 
the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  and  consider  him  thoroughly 
*eliable." 


From  W.  S.  Tingle,  St.  Paul  Globe: 

"  After  a  study  of  the  literature  of  the  subject,  I  am  convinced  that 
the  lake  to  which  the  name  of  Glazier  was  given  by  the  Glazier  explor- 
ing expedition  is  undoubtedly  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  a:  d 
that  Captain  Glazier  was  the  first  to  call  general  public  attention  to  the 
fact.11 


510  APPENDIX. 

From  Major  Will  E.  Haskell,  Editor  Minneapolis  Tribune: 

"There  can  be  no  longer  any  doubt,  when  the  question  is  carefully- 
considered,  that  the  credit  of  discovering  the  True  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi belongs  to  Captain  Willard  Glazier.  Captain  Glazier's  discovery 
has  now  become  an  accepted  geographical  fact,  and  future  generations 
of  school-boys  will  speak  knowingly  of  Lake  Glazier,  as  we  did  in  our 
youth  of  Itasca." 

From,  Rev.  W.  T.  Chase,  Pastor  First  Baptist  Church,  Minneapolis: 

"  There  seems  no  room  for  reasonable  doubt  tbat  the  actual  Source 
of  the  Mississippi  had  never  been  recognized  until  Captain  Glazier  made 
its  discovery  in  1881. " 

From  Rev.  J.  L.  Pitner,  Pastor  M.  E.  Church,  Minneapolis: 

"  I  am  convinced  that  the  Real  Source  of  the  Mississippi  was  not  known 
prior  to  1881.  I  am  quite  sure  the  claims  of  Lake  Glazier  are  not  ill- 
founded,  and  in  its  deep,  cool  bosom  the  Great  River  takes  its  rise.'" 


From  J.  S.  McLain,  Evening  Journal,  Minneapolis: 
"I  have  no  reason  to  question  the  claim  that  the  body  of  water 
which  bears  the  name  of  Lake  Glazier  is  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi.'" 


From  Ex-Mayor  Pillsbury,  Minneapolis: 
"lam  satisfied  that  Captain  Willard  Glazier  was  the  first  person  that 
discovered,  and  made  public  the  discovery,  of  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi." 

From  Hon.  Samuel  E.  Adams,  Monticello,  Member  of  the  Minnesota 
Historical  Society: 
"I  have  no  doubt  of  the  correctness  of  Captain  Glazier's  statement 
and  that  he  discovered  the  new  Source  bearing  his  name.11 


From  John  H.  Elliott,  Secretary  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  Minneapolis: 

"  I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  I  believe  Lake  Glazier  to  be  the 
Real  Source  of  the  Mississippi.11 


From  Hon.  J.  G.  Lawrence,  Ex-Senator,  Wabasha: 

"  I  certainly  believe  Captain  Glazier  is  entitled  to  the  credit  of  dis- 
covering the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi." 


From  Judge  John  P.  Rea,  Ex-  Commander-in-Chief  G.  A.  R., 
Minneapolis: 
"lam  satisfied  that  Lake  Glazier  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi." 


APPENDIX.  511 

From  Judge  L.  A.  Evans,  Ex-Mayor,  St.  Cloud: 
"I  believe  Lake  Glazier  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi." 


From  Albert  Shaw,  Tribune,  Minneapolis: 

"Unquestionably,  Captain  Glazier  may  claim  the  credit  of  having 
called  public  attention  to  the  lake  beyond  Itasca.  He  was  the  first  who 
attached  geographical  importance  to  it.  That  the  lake  will  always  be 
called  Lake  Glazier,  I  have  no  doubt;  nor  do  I  doubt  the  propriety  of 
the  name.1' 


From  G.  M.  Wing,  Secretary  Northwest  Indian  Commission, 
Minneapolis: 

"The  lake  which  Captain  Glazier  has  located  is,  no  doubt,  more 
properly  the  True  Source  of  the  Great  River  than  Lake  Itasca.  Captain 
Glazier  was  the  first  to  discover  that  fact,  and  that  should  entitle  him  to 
the  honor  of  naming  it."' 


From  Rev.  Andrew  D.  Stowe,  Rector  Trinity  Church,  Anoka: 

"  This  is  to  certify  that  from  the  testimony  of  Indians  and  half-breeds 
living  at  White  Earth  Agency,  Minnesota,  during  my  residence  there  of 
two  years,  I  cm  persuaded  that  Lake  Glazier,  instead  of  Itasca,  is  the 
Real  Source  of  the  Mississippi.11 


From  D.  Sinclair,  Winona: 

"In  the  autumn  of  1862  I  spent  several  weeks  in  that  portion  of 
Northern  Minnesota  extending  from  Crow  Wing  to  Leech  Lake,  and 
the  country  about  Red  Lake,  in  company  with  Paul  Beaulieu,  the  well- 
known  Indian  guide  and  interpreter.  During  a  conversation  as  to  the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi,  Beaulieu  informed  me  that  Lake  Itasca  was 
not  the  Real  Source  of  that  river,  but  that  a  smaller  lake,  located  a  short 
distance  south  of  Itasca,  was  entitled  to  that  distinction.  After  investi- 
gating the  matter  recently,  I  have  no  doubt  of  the  genuineness  of  Cap- 
tain Glazier's  claim  to  be  the  person  who  first  publicly  established  the 
fact  that  the  lake  which  now  bears  his  name  is  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi  River.'1 


From  William  A.  Spencer,  Clerk  United  States  District  Court,  Saint 

Paul: 
"I  have  resided  in  Minnesota  upward  of  thirty  y6ars,  and  until 
recently  have  always  thought  that  Lake  Itasca  was  the  Source  of  the 
Mississippi;  but  after  an  examination  of  the  claim  of  Captain  Glazier  to 
be  the  discoverer  of  the  True  Source,  I  am  satisfied  his  claim  is  well 
founded.11 


512  APPENDIX. 

From  O.  C.  Chase,  Chairman  County  Commissioners,  Otter-Tail  County: 

"From  information  received,  I  am  fully  satisfied  that  Captain 
Glazier  was  the  first  person  t  j  publicly  announce  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi. " 


From  John  J.  Ankeny,  Postmaster,  Minneapolis: 

"From  the  best  information  I  can  obtain,  I  am  persuaded  that  the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi  had  not  been  recognized  prior  to  the 
published  accounts  of  exploration  by  Captain  Willard  Glazier  in  1881.  I 
think,  therefore,  he  is  entitled  to  the  credit  of  the  discovery." 


From  P.  P.  Swenson,  Sheriff,  Hennepin  County: 

"After  a  residence  of  thirty-two  years  in  the  State  of  Minnesota, 
until  recently  I  have  always  supposed  that  Lake  Itasca  was  the  Source 
of  the  Mississippi  River.  I  am  now  well  informed  of  its  True  Source 
being  Lake  Glazier,  having  personally  traversed  that  section  of  the 
State." 


From  John  F.  Peterson,  Register  of  Deeds,  Minneapolis: 

"I  have  resided  in  Minnesota  for  the  past  eighteen  years,  and  fully 
believe  that  Lake  Glazier  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi." 


From  C.  P.  De  Laithe,  Superintendent  of  Schools,  Aitkin  County: 

"I  recognize  Lake  Glazier  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River. 
Have  resided  in  Aitkin  for  several  years." 


From  J.  H.  Hallett,  Brainerd: 

"  I  recognize  the  lake  discovered  by  Captain  Glazier  as  the  Real 
Source  of  the  Mississippi.  Have  been  an  Indian  trader  for  the  past 
fifteen  years." 


From  Hon.  N.  Richardson,  Little  Falls,  Judge  of  Probate  of  Morrison 
County: 

"I have  resided  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  for  thirty-one  years. 
Met  Captain  Glazier  at  Little  Falls  with  his  exploring  party,  that  visited 
the  headwaters  of  this  river  in  the  summer  of  1881.  From  information 
derived  from  sources  that  I  consider  reliable,  I  regard  Lake  Glazier  as 
the  True  Source  of  the  Great  River.  Have  been  a  member  of  the 
Minnesota  Legislature  for  three  terms." 


APPENDIX.  513 


From  O.  L.  Clyde,  First  Lieutenant  National  Guard,  Little  Falls: 

"I  have  been  a  resident  of  Northern  Minnesota  for  twenty  years, 
and  always  supposed  that  Lake  Itasca  was  the  source  of  the  Mississippi. 
I  never  heard  anything  to  the  contrary  until  the  year  1881,  when 
Captain  Glazier  explored  the  Upper  Mississippi,  and  made  his  report  of 
the  same.  I  now  recognize  Lake  Glazier  as  the  True  Source  of  the 
Great  River." 


From  Moses  La  Fond,  Little  Falls: 

"Lake  Glazier  is  now  considered  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 
I  am  one  of  the  old  pioneers  of  this  State,  having  resided  in  the  northern 
section  for  over  thirty-two  years,  and  was  a  member  of  the  Legislature 
in  1874." 


From  R.  Cronk,  of  the  Government  Survey,  Sauk  Rapids: 

"  This  is  to  certify  that  I  was  compass-man  on  the  survey  of  town- 
ship 143  north,  range  36  west  of  5th  principal  meridian,  which  embraces 
Itasca  Lake  (the  Indian  name  of  which  I  understood  to  be  Omushkos,  or 
Elk.  Lake),  and  hereby  affirm  that  Lake  Glazier  is  the  only  well-defined 
body  of  water  emptying  into  Lake  Itasca,  and  in  my  opinion  is  the 
True  Source  of  the  Mississippi." 


From  Hon.  T.  G.  Healey,  Ex-State  Senator,  Monticello: 

"Have  resided  in  Monticello  since  1856.  I  regard  Lake  Glazier  as 
the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and  it  is  now  so  regarded  by 
the  people  living  in  this  section  of  Minnesota." 


From  Freeman  E.  Kreck,  Postmaster,  Aitkin: 

"I  have  been  a  resident  of  Aitkin  County  since  1881;  have  been 
county  auditor  for  past  two  years,  and  for  a  time  proprietor  and  editor 
of  the  Aitkin  Age.  Since  Captain  Glazier's  explorations  I  do  not  hesi- 
tate to  say  that  I  believe  Lake  Glazier  to  be  the  True  Primal  Reservoir 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  I  think  I  voice  the  sentiment  of  the  majority  of 
the  residents  of  this  section." 


From  A.  Y.  Merrill,  County  Attorney,  Aitkin: 

"  I  believe  that  the  lake  claimed  to  have  been  located  by  Captain 
Glazier  is  the  Real  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River. " 


From  J.  W.  Wakefield,  Aitkin: 

"  Resident  of  Minnesota  for  thirty  years.    Personally  acquainted  with 
Chenowagesic.    Indian  trader  more  than   fifteen  years.    Thoroughly 
familiar  with  the  Chippewa  language.    I  recognize  Lake  Glazier  as  the 
True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River." 
33 


514  APPEKDIX. 

From  Lyman  P.  WJiite,  Ex-Mayor,  Brainerd: 

"I  have  been  a  resident  of  Brainerd  since  1870.  Built  the  first  house 
in  Brainerd.  Have  had  charge  of  the  town  site  for  the  Lake  Superior 
and  Puget  Sound  Company  for  sixteen  years.  I  met  Captain  Glazier  on 
his  Mississippi  trip,  and  fully  indorse  his  claim  to  have  discovered  the 
True  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 


From  W.  W.  Hartley,  Brainerd: 

"  Have  been  a  resident  of  Brainerd  for  the  past  fifteen  years.  Editor 
and  publisher  of  the  Tribune  from  1875  to  1881,  and  postmaster  from 
1879  to  1886.  Met  Captain  Glazier  and  his  party  here  in  1881,  both 
en  route  to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  River  and  on  their  return 
voyage  by  canoe  to  its  mouth.  Have  no  recollection  of  ever  having 
heard  any  other  than  Lake  Itasca  claimed  to  be  the  Source  of  the 
Mississippi  prior  to  the  Captain's  expedition.  Lake  Glazier  has  since 
been  accepted  and  is  believed  to  be  its  Source." 


From  J.  H.  Koop,  Postmaster,  Brainerd: 

"Have  been  a  resident  of  this  State  for  sixteen  years.  Met  Captain 
Glazier  at  the  time  he  made  his  expedition  of  discovery  to  the  Source  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  I  recognize  the  lake  bearing  his  name  as  its  True 
Source.'11 


From  N.  H.  Ingersoll,  Editor  Brainerd  Dispatch: 

44  I  fully  indorse  the  statement  that  Captain  Glazier  was  the  first  to 
proclaim  to  the  world  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi. " 


From  Rev.  Fletcher  J.  Hawley,  D.  D.,  Bector  of  St.  Paul's  Episcopal 
Church,  Brainerd: 

"I  have  been  a  resident  of  Brainerd  since  1880,  and  have  not  heard 
any  one  question  the  truth  of  Captain  Glazier's  claim  to  have  discov- 
ered the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  to  be  in  Lake  Glazier." 


From  W.  W.  Be  Kay,  Red  Wing: 

"  From  such  information  as  I  have  upon  the  subject,  I  regard  the 
lake  located  by  Captain  Glazier,  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  as  the  True 
Source  of  the  Mississippi.  I  have  resided  in  Minnesota  for  thirty-three 
years." 

From  William  Moore,  Superintendent  of  Schools,  Lake  City: 

"Knowing  the  facts  in  regard  to  Captain  Glazier's  discovery  of  the 
True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  as  brought  out  by  public  discussion,  I  am 
convinced  that  he  is  justly  entitled  to  be  considered  the  discoverer  of  the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi  River." 


APPENDIX.  515 

From  George  C.  Stout,  Mayor,  Lake  City: 
"  I  have  no  doubt  that  Captain  Glazier  is  fully  entitled  to  the  honor 
of  first  discovery  of  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River.11 


From  D.  O.  Irwin,  Postmaster,  Lake  City: 
"I  am  convinced  that  the  actual  Source  of  the  Mississippi  had  not 
been  recognized  before  the  published  account  of  explorations  by  Captain 
Glazier;  and  I  regard  Lake  Glazier  as  the  True  Source  of  the  Great 
River.11 


From  H.  L.  Smith,  Editor  and  Proprietor  of  the  Graphic,  Lake  City: 

"I  am  fully  convinced  that  Lake  Glazier  is  the  Real  Source  of  the 
Father  of  Waters.    Have  resided  in  Minnesota  seventeen  years.11 


From  F.  J.  Collins,  Mayor  of  Wabasha: 

"I  have  no  doubt  that  Captain  Glazier  is  fully  entitled  to  the  credit 
of  having  discovered  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River.  I  have 
resided  in  Minnesota  thirty-one  years.11 


From  Hon.  James  G.  Lawrence,  Ex-State  Senator,  Wabasha: 

"I  believe  Captain  Glazier  is  certainly  entitled  to  the  credit  of  dis- 
covering the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  in  a  lake  above  Lake  Itasca, 
now  named  after  him,  Lake  Glazier.11 


From  D.  L.  Dawley,  Principal  of  Schools,  Wabasha: 

"I  believe  Captain  Glazier  to  be  the  real  discoverer  of  the  True 
Source  of  the  Mississippi  River." 


From  William  Tubbs,  Postmaster  and  Ex-County  Auditor,  Monticello: 

"Have  resided  in  Minnesota  twenty -nine  years.  Lake  Glazier  is 
regarded  by  the  people  generally  of  this  section  as  the  True  Source  of 
the  Mississippi.11 


From  W.  J.  Brown,  Principal  of  the  High  School,  Monticello: 

"I  consider  Lake  Glazier  to  be  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  know  of  no  other.  I  teach  the  same  in  the  public  schools  of  this 
place,  as  also  do  my  assistants." 


From  Commander  A.  H.  Fitch,  Anoka,  J.  S.  Cody  Post,  G.  A.  R.,  Depart- 
ment Minnesota :  ' 
"I  am  fully  convinced  that  the  body  of   water  known  as   Lake 
Glazier  since  1881  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  not  Lake 
Itasca." 


516  APPENDIX. 

From  J.  M.  Tucker.,  M.  D.,  Hastings: 
"I  believe  Captain  Glazier's  claim  to  being  the  discoverer  of  the 
Ileal  Source  of  the  Mississippi  is  just,  and  have  never  heard  it  questioned. 
It  must  stand  as  one  of  the  facts  of  history." 


From  Daniel  CBrien,  Police  Justice,  Hastings: 
"I  am  satisfied  that  the  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  located  by  Gla- 
zier in  1881,  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  that  Captain 
Glazier  is  entitled  to  whatever  credit  there  is  in  the  discovery.,, 


From  J.  R.  Lambert,  Ex-Mayor,  Hastings: 
"It  has  been  a  generally  accepted  fact  that  Lake  Itasca  was  the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and  like  many  others  who  have  pre- 
ceded me  in  giving  testimonials  in  favor  of  Captain  Willard  Glazier's 
claim  as  the  discoverer  of  a  body  of  water  now  known  quite  generally  as 
Lake  Glazier,  and  so  represented  in  many  of  our  standard  geographical 
works,  I  cheerfully  admit  that  Captain  Glazier  is  entitled  to  credit  as 
the  discoverer." 


From  S.  Westerson,  Chairman  Board  of  County  Commissioners, 
Hastings: 

"It  seems  to  be  clearly  proven  that  there  is  a  lake— now  called  Lake 
Glazier— which  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  discovered  by 
Captain  Willard  Glazier  in  the  year  1881,  and  that  said  Captain  Glazier 
was  the  first  man  to  make  it  public.  The  honor,  therefore,  in  my 
estimation,  is  due  to  him." 


From  B.  B.  Herbert,  Editor  The  Republican,  Red  Wing: 
"After  a  careful  examination  of  the  claim  made  for  and  against  the 
reputed  discovery  of  the  Head  of  the  Mississippi  by  Captain  Willard 
Glazier,  I  am  convinced  that  he  was  the  first  to  question  the  received 
statement  that  Lake  Itasca  was  its  Source,  and  first  to  connect  the  lake 
which  some  respectable  geographers  have  called  by  his  name  with  the 
Mississippi  as  its  Source.  Having  lived  in  Minnesota,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Mississippi,  for  nearly  thirty  years,  had  any  other  person  claimed  to 
have  discovered  any  other  Source  than  Lake  Itasca,  I  should  hav-3  been 
informed  thereof." 


From  S.  B.  Sheardown,  M.  D.,  Winona. 
"I  believe  that  Captain  Glazier  is  entitled  to  the  credit  of  discovering 
the  Real  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River.    I  have  been  a  resident  of 
Minnesota  over  thirty-one  years." 


From  Judge  A.  F.  Storey,  St.  Vincent: 
"I  have  no  hesitancy  in  saying  that  there  can  be  no  question  but 
that  Lakr  Glazier  is  the  True  and  Primal  Source  of  the  Mississippi 
River." 


APPEKDIX.  51? 


From  James  A.  Thompson,  Postmaster,  Leech  Lake: 

"lam  of  opinion  that  Lake  Glazier  is  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 
1  have  talked  on  this  subject  with  some  of  the  Indians  who  accom- 
panied Captain  Glazier  on  his  exploring  expedition  in  1881,  and  they  all 
say  it  is  the  last  lake;  that  they  went  all  the  way  in  their  canoes,  and 
could  go  no  farther.  It  is  the  general  belief  here  that  Lake  Glazier  is 
the  True  Source.11 


From  Paul  Beaulieu,  United  States  Interpreter,  White  Earth  Indian 
Agency: 

"I  would  respectfully  state  that  according  to  the  ideas  of  the  people 
of  this  section  of  country,  for  scores  of  years  past,  in  alluding  to  Lake 
Itasca,  which  is  known  only  as  Elk  Lake  by  the  original  inhabitants  of 
this  part  of  the  country,  was  never  by  them  considered  as  thj  Head  or 
Source  of  the  Father  of  Running  Waters,  or  May-see-see-bee,  as  it  is  by 
them  named.  I  received  a  map  showing  the  route  of  exploration  of 
Captain  Willard  Glazier,  1881,  and  being  well  acquainted  with  his  chief 
guide,  Chenowagesic,  who  has  made  the  section  of  country  explored  by 
Captain  Glazier  his  home  for  many  years  in  the  past,  and  who  has 
proved  the  truth  of  his  of  ten -repeated  assertion,  when  maps  were  shown 
him,  that  a  smaller  lake  above  Lake  Itasca  would  in  time  change  a 
feature  of  those  maps,  and  proclaim  to  the  world  that  Lake  Itasca  can 
not  any  longer  maintain  its  claim  as  being  the  Fountain-head  of  Ke-chee  • 
see-be,  or  Great  River,  which  is  called  May-see-see-bee  by  the  Chippewas. 
The  map  as  delineated  by  Captain  Glazier's  guide,  Chenowagesic,  and 
published  by  the  Glazier  party,  is  correct;  and  it  is  plain  to  us  who  know 
the  lay  of  this  whoJe  country  (I  mean  by  us  the  Chippewa  tribe  in  par- 
ticular, also  the  recent  explorers  for  pine)  that  Lake  Glazier  is  located 
at  the  right  place,  and  is  the  last  lake  on  the  longest  stream  of  the 
several  rivers  at  the  head  of  the  Great  Mississippi.11 


From  J.  O.  Simmons,  Little  Falls: 

"Have  been  a  resident  of  Little  Falls  for  the  past  twenty -nine  years; 
county  attorney  and  justice  of  the  peace  for  several  years.  Would  state 
that  I  am  personally  acquainted  with  the  half-breed  Indian  interpreter, 
Paul  Beaulieu.  Have  known  him  since  June,  1857,  and  know  him  to  be  a 
person  of  intelligence,  great  experience,  and  personal  knowledge  of  the 
northern  portion  of  Minnesota,  which  up  to  very  recently  has  been  a 
vast  wilderness  occupied  only  by  the  Chippewas.  Have  often  conversed 
with  him  relative  to  the  country  north  of  us,  and  speaking  of  the 
Mississippi,  have  heard  him  say  that  Lake  Itasca  was  not  the  Fountain- 
head;  that  there  was  a  stream  emptying  its  waters  into  Itasca  from  a 
lake  a  short  distance  above  the  latter,  and  which,  in  his  opinion,  was  the 
True  Source.  Since  Captain  Glazier's  exploration,  I  accept  the  lake 
bearing  his  name  as  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.11 


518  APPENDIX. 

II. 

GEOGRAPHERS,  EDUCATIONAL  PUBLISHERS,  AND  OTHERS. 

Royal  Geographical  Society, 
London,  January  12,  1885. 
Captain  Willard  Glazier,  New  York,  U.  S.  A. 

Dear  Sir:    ...    I  am  happy  to  be  able  to  send  you  a  copy  of  the 
January  number  of  the  proceedings  of  our  Society.    .    .    .    Your  discov- 
ery is  considered  a  distinct  addition  to  our  knowledge  of  the  geography 
of  the  Mississippi  basin,  and  well  worthy  of  publication  by  the  Society. 
Your  obedient  servant, 

H.  W.  Bates, 
Assistant  Secretary  and  Editor. 


George  W.  Melville,  the  famed  Arctic  Explorer,  writes: 

Philadelphia,  Pennsylvania, 
February  5,  1885. 
Captain  Willard  Glazier: 

Dear  Sir:  Your  very  interesting  paper  and  map  of  the  discovery 
of  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  came  to  hand  this  morning.  Having 
but  a  single  number  of  your  paper,  I  can  form  but  an  inadequate  idea 
of  your  labor  and  patience,  except  by  a  look  at  your  map,  which  is  a 
very  good  one,  and  shows  an  immense  amount  of  labor;  in  fact,  I  am 
astonished  at  the  amount  of  work  done  in  so  short  a  space  of  time  as  is 
shown  on  your  track  chart. 

I  am  gratified  at  being  made  the  recipient  of  your  favor;  and  with 
sentiments  of  the  highest  esteem  and  regard  for  a  worthy  brother  in  the 
world  of  science,  I  am,  dear  sir, 

Very  respectfully, 

George  W.  Melville, 

Chief  Engineer,  V.  S.  Navy. 


Geographers  and  educational  publishers  of  America  and 
Europe  have  not  only  made  the  necessary  changes  in  their 
maps  of  Minnesota,  but  have  expressed  their  recognition  and 
acceptance  of  the  Glazier  discovery  in  letters  addressed  to 
friends  of  the  Captain.  Among  these  may  be  mentioned: 
Rand,  McNally  &  Co.,  George  F.  Cram,  George  H.  Benedict 
&  Co.,  of  Chicago;  Matthews,  Northrup  &  Co.,  Buffalo;  A.  8. 
Barnes  &  Co.,  Prof.  James  Monteith,  Gaylord  Watson,  and 
Appleton's  Encyclopedia,  New  York;  W.  &  A.  K.  Johnston, 
Edinburgh,  Scotland;  Macmillan  &  Co.,  London  and  New 
York;  Warne  &  Co.,  London,  England;  Chambers'  Encyclo- 
pedia, Edinburgh,  Scotland;  A.  Hartleben,  Wien,  Austria; 
F.  A.  Brockhaus,  Leipsic,  Germany;  W.  M.  Bradley  &  Bro., 
Cowperthwait  &  Co.,  E.  H.  Butler  &  Co.,  T.  El  wood  Zrll,  and 
W.  H.  Gamble,  Philadelphia;  J-hn  Lovell  &  Son,  Montreal, 
Canada,  and  others  of  less  prominence. 


APPENDIX.  519 

From  Maury's  Manual  of  Geography: 
"  Page  56.  Minnesota  is  crossed  by  the  ridge  or  •  Height  of  Land1 
which  separates  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi  from  the  northern  slope  of 
the  Great  Central  Plain.  On  this  elevation,  1,000  feet  above  the  sea, 
both  the  Mississippi  and  the  Red  River  of  the  North  take  their  rise,  the 
one  flowing  south  and  the  other  north.  The  crest  of  the  *  Height  of 
Land '  is  crowned  with  lakes  of  clear  water.  Lake  Glaziek,  one  of 
these,  is  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi " 


From  Professor  J.  W.  Bedway  of  Philadelphia,  an  eminent  geographer 
and  scientist: 

Philadelphia,  September  9,  1887. 
Captain  Willard  Glazier. 

Dear  Sir:  .  .  .  You  will  have  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that 
by  your  exertions  and  enterprise  an  error  of  more  than  fifty  years1 
standing  has  been  made  apparent.  The  world  owes  you  a  debt  for 
determining  an  important  question  in  geography. 

Sincerely  yours, 

J.  W.  Redway. 


From  Messrs.  Harper  dt  Bros. ,  New  York: 

Educational  Department. 
"...     Recent   exploration  and  survey  establish  the  fact  that 
Lake  Glazier  has  the  best  claim  to  the  distinction  of  standing  at  the 
head  of   the   Father  of  Waters.     School    geographies,  generally,  are 
being  corrected  to  show  it.11 


From  W.  dt  A.  K.  Johnston,  Edinburgh,  Scotland,  Geographers  and 
Engravers  to  the  Queen: 
"You  have  the  satisfaction  of  having  done  a  great  work  in  settling 
the  vexed  question  of  the  Source  of  your  mighty  river.    For  this,  all 
interested  in  geography  are  indebted  to  you." 


From  Band,  McNally  dt  Co.,  Map  Makers  and  Publishers,  Chicago: 
"  As  to  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  we  gave  it  considerable  atten- 
tion in  preparing  our  new  map  of  Minnesota,  and  finally  fixed  it  as  Lake 
Glazier.    This,  we  consider,  has  the  best  claim. " 


From  George  F.  Cram,  Map  and  Atlas  Publisher,  Chicago: 
"  I  mail  you  to-day  a  copy  of  the  corrected  map  of  Minnesota,  show* 
ing  Lake  Glazier  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi." 


From  Messrs.  Cowperthwait  dt  Co.,  Philadelphia: 
"We  have  added  Lake  Glazier  to  our  school  maps  as.  the  Source  of 
the  Mississippi." 


520  APPEHDtX. 

From  Matthews,  Northrup  dt  Co.,  Art  Printers,  Buffalo,  New  York: 
"  We  regard  Lake  Glazier  as  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
are  so  showing  it  on  all  maps,  etc.,  issued  by  us." 


From  Fred  Warne  dt  Co.,  Publishers,  London,  England: 
"  Pray  accept  our  very  cordial  thanks.    The  alteration  in  the  Source 
of  your  great  river  has  been  noted,  and  we  shall  gladly  avail  ourselves  of 
the  information  to  make  the  correction  in  our  atlases.11 


From  Herr  F.  A.  Brockhaus,  Leipsic,  Germany: 

"Captain  Willard  Glazier. 

"  Dear  Sir:  I  beg  to  present  my  sincere  congratulations  on  your 
important  discovery  of  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and 
thank  you  for  the  map  illustrating  your  expedition.11 


From  A.  S.  Barnes  dt  CoSs  "  Complete  Geography,'1''  New  York: 
"  The  Source  of  the  Mississippi  is  Lake  Glazier,  a  small  lake  from 
which  water  flows  into  Lake  Itasca,  which  until  recently  was  thought 
to  be  its  Source.11 


From  the  University  Publishing  Covipany,  New  York: 
"  We  think  Lake  Glazier  is  important  enough  to  outrank  Itasca  as 
the  Source  of  the  Mississippi.11 

From  W.  M.  Bradley  dt  Bros.,  Philadelphia: 
"  Lake  Glazier  appears  on  our  large  Atlas  of  the  World,  and  on 
Mitchell's  Atlas,  as  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.11 


From  John  Lovell  dt  Son,  Educational  Publishers,  Montreal: 
"The  testimonials  from  leading  citizens  of  Minnesota,  and  others, 
tell  convincingly  in  Captain  Glazier's  favor." 


From  George  H.  Benedict  dt  Co.,  Map  Engravers,  Chicago: 
"  Lake  Glazier  is  now  acknowledged  to  be  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  will  soon  appear  as  such  on  all  maps." 


From  Gaylord  Watson,  Map  and  Chart  Publisher,  New  York: 
"  I  shall  show  Lake  Glazier  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  on  my 
maps."  

From  P.  CShea,  Catholic  Publisher,  New  York: 
"I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  Lake  Glazier  is  the  Trut, 
Source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  intend  to  give  it  as  the  Source  in  the  new 
editions  of  my  geographies." 


APPENDIX.  521 


From  Geo.  H.  Adams  dbCo.,  Geographical  and  Art  Publishers,  New  York: 

**  We  recognize  Lake  Glazier  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River. 
We  believe  Captain  Glazier's  claim  to  be  the  discoverer  of  the  True 
Source  is  now  very  generally  admitted  by  all  map  publishers  of  this 
country.1' 

From  Map  and  School  Supply  Company,  Toronto: 

"  We  consider  Lake  Glazier  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and 
are  having  it  appear  on  all  our  latest  maps  as  such.'1 


From  John  S.  Kendall,  President  National  School  Furnishing  Company, 

Chicago: 
"Captain  Willard  Glazier. 

"  Dear  Sir:  I  am  glad  to  see  the  entire  narrative  of  your  voyage 
"  Down  the  Great  River  M  in  book  form.  There  is  no  doubt  about  your 
expedition  having  added  largely  to  our  rather  limited  stock  of  infor- 
mation regarding  the  country  around  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi. 
I  deem  it  a  graceful  and  fitting  compliment  to  give  your  name  to  the 
lake  south  of  Itasca." 


From  Colonel  George  Soule,  President  of  Soule  College,  New  Orleans: 

"I  recognize  the  correctness  of  Captain  Glazier's  claim,  and  shall 
teach  that  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  is  Lake  Glazier." 


From  P.  L.  Abernethy,  A.  M.,D.  D.,  President  of  Rutherford  College, 
North  Carolina: 
"  I  am  satisfied  that  Lake  Glazier  is  the  True  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  that  Captain  Glazier  is  entitled  to  the  honor  of  the  discovery." 


From  G.  H.  Laughlin,  A.  M.,  Ph.  D.,  President  of  Hiram  College,  Ohio: 

"  Captain  Glazier  has  rendered  an  invaluable  service  to  the  science  of 
geography.  I  am  glad  that  the  school  geographies  are  being  corrected 
so  as  to  indicate  Lake  Glazier  as  the  Source  of  the  Father  of  Waters." 


From  Marcus  Ward  &  Co.,  Map  and  Atlas  Publishers,  London,  England: 

"  We  are  having  the  necessary  alterations  made  in  all  our  maps, 
and  future  editions  will  give  Lake  Glazier  as  the  Source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi." 


From  M.  Dripps,  Map  and  Atlas  Publisher,  New  York: 

' '  I  will  avail  myself  of  Captain  Glazier's  discovery  by  showing  on 
my  future  maps  of  the  United  States  its  True  Source  in  Lake  Glazier." 


522  APPENDIX. 


From  T.  L.  Flood,  Editor,  The  Chautauquan,  MeadvUle,  Pennsylvania: 

•'  Judging  from  the  vast  amount  of  evidence,  I  have  no  hesitation  in 
saying  that  I  believe  Lake  Glazier  to  be  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi." 


From  William  Collins,  Sons  dt  Company,  Publishers,  Glasgow,  London, 
and  Edinburgh: 
"We  shall  give  effect  to  the  discovery  of  the  True  Source  of  the 
Mississippi  in  the  next  issue  of  our  maps.11 


From  H.  L.  Turner,  President,  Western  Publishing  House,  Chicago  and 
New  York: 
"We  shall  at  once  modify  our  representation  of  the  Mississippi's 
Source  on  our  maps  of  the  country,  for  the  reason  that  we  fully  accept 
Captain  Glazier's  report  and  claim.11 


From  J.  R.  Spaulding  dt  Company,  Map  Publishers,  Boston: 
"We  think  Captain  Glazier's  claim  as  to  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi 
is  correct,  and  Lake  Glazier  will  appear  as  the  True  Source  hereafter  in 
our  publications.11 

From  John  B.  Alden,  Publisher  of  "  Alden's  Manifold   Cyclopaedia" 
and  "  Home  Atlas  of  the  World,'''1  New  York: 
"Lake  Glazier  is  considered  the  Head  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and 
is  being  taught  as  such  in  our  public  schools.11 


From  Professor  John  Jasper,  Superintendent  of  Schools,  New  York 
City: 
"  Our  teachers  are  beginning  to  accept  Lake  Glazier  as  the  Source  of 
the  Mississippi.11 

From  J.  L.  Smith,  Map  Publisher,  Philadelphia: 
"Having  given  considerable  attention  to  the  merits  of  the  claim  pre- 
sented by  Captain  Willard  Glazier  to  have  definitely  located  the  Source 
of  the  Mississippi,  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  the  lake  to  the  south  of  Itasca 
should  be  recognized  as  the  Primal  Reservoir  or  True  Fountain-head  of 
that  river,  and  that  Captain  Glazier  is  entitled  to  the  credit  of  having 
been  the  first  to  discover  this  fact  and  call  public  attention  to  it." 


From  E.  H.  Butler  dt  Company,  Educational  Publishers, 
Philadelphia: 
"We  would  state  that  in  our  own  new  series  of  geographies  just 
published  we  make  Elk  Lake,  south  of  Lake  Itasca,  the  Source  of  the 
Mississippi.  We  also  recognize  the  fact  that  this  lake  is  called  Lake 
Glazier,  and  we  presume  that  the  latter  title  will  eventually  be 
established.1' 


APPENDIX.  523 

From  T.  Elwood  Zell,  Publisher  of  ZelVs  Enclyclopmdia, 
Philadelphia: 
"  Captain  Glazier  has  discovered  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  in 

A  lake  now  bearing  his  name It  would  seem  that  his  claim  is 

undoubted. " 


From  Professor  James  Monteith,  Author  of  Barnes^  Complete 

Geography,  etc.,  New  York: 

"The  lake  known  as  Lake  Glazier  is,  in  my  opinion,  the  Source  of 

the  Mississippi,  and  not  Itasca  Lake.    Captain  Willard  Glazier  deserves 

great  credit  for  demonstrating  this  lake  to  be  the  True  Source.    It  is 

sometimes  called  Elk  Lake,  but  I  prefer  to  call  it  Lake  Glazier.11 


From  the  Moses  King  Corporation,  Map  Publishers,  Boston: 
"There  is  a  large  amount  of  testimony  in  favor  of  Lake  Glazier. 
Rand,  McNally  &  Co.,  the  map-makers  of  Chicago;  Matthews,  Northrup 
&  Co.,  of  Buffalo,  with  whom  we  are  connected,  and  others,  incorporate 
Lake  Glazier  into  their  maps  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi ;  and  we 
incline  to  the  belief  that  the  balance  of  opinion  is  in  favor  of  this  lake  as 
the  True  Source." 


From  Herr  A.  Hartleben,  a  leading  Publisher  of  Germany: 
"I  congratulate  Captain  Glazier  on  his  important  discovery  of  the 
Source  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and  shall  have  great  pleasure  in  bring- 
ing the  subject  to  the  notice  of  our  Geographical  Society.11 

From  "  Alden's  Manifold  Cyclopaedia,"  New  York: 
"Glazier  Lake  (Indian  name  Pokegama),  a  small  body  of  water  in 
Northern  Minnesota,  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River,  which  flows 
from  it  as  a  stream  a  few  feet  wide  and  connects  it  with  Lake  Itasca, 
which  lies  to  the  northward.  Lake  Glazier  is  in  latitude  about  47°  N. ; 
is  180  miles  in  a  direct  line  northwest  from  Minneapolis,  and  not  far  from 
a  mile  and  a  half  in  greatest  diameter.  It  is  estimated  to  be  1,582  feet 
above  sea-level,  and  3,184  miles  from  the  river's  mouth  in  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  Itasca  was  long  deemed  the  Source,  until  the  discovery  of  the 
lake  beyond  by  Captain  Willard  Glazier  (born  in  Fowler,  St.  Lawrence 
County,  N.  Y.,  August  22,  1841;  great-grandson  of  a  Massachusetts  Rev- 
olutionary soldier,  and  himself  a  soldier  in  the  war  against  secession). 
Having  heard  from  the  Indians  of  lakes  beyond  Itasca,  he  explored  the 
region,  and  in  his  canoe  entered  Lake  Glazier,  July  22,  1881.  Thence 
he  traversed  the  entire  length  of  the  Mississippi  in  canoes,  from  its 
Source  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.11 


From  W.  Dundas  Walker,  Editor,  Chambers'1  Encyclopaedia, 
Edinburgh,  Scotland:  • 

"  I  will  be  glad  to  take  advantage  of  the  information  so  kindly  placed 
at  my  disposal,  and  congratulate  Captain  Glazier  on  his  important 
discovery.11 


524  APPEKDIX. 

From  Professor  D.  L.  Webster,  Editor,  Webster's  Encyclopaedia, 

Chicago: 

"  The  Glazier  Expedition  resulted  in  the  location  of  the  True  Source 

of  the  Mississippi.    That  '  Truth  is  mighty  and  will  prevail,1  was  never 

better  evidenced  than  in  the  event  which  has  placed  the  Fountain-head 

of  the  Great  River  in  the  lake  beyond  Itasca.11 

The  following  extract  from  the  "International  Encyclo- 
paedia "  places  Lake  Glazier  first  in  the  chain  of  lakes  which 
constitute  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi: 

"Mississippi  River.  The  sources  of  this  great  river  are  Lakes 
Glazier,  Itasca,  Traverse,  or  Bemidji,  .  .  .  lying  among  hills  of  drift 
and  bowlders  in  the  midst  of  pine  forests  and  marshes.11 


From  American  Supplement  to  the  Encyclopaedia  Britannica: 

"  The  Mississippi  has  its  source  in  Lake  Glazier,  south  of  Cake 
Itasca,  Minnesota,  47°  M  N.  lat.,  95°  2'  W.  Long.,  The  greatest 
width  of  this  lake  is  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  it  is  deeper  than  Itasca,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a  shallow  stream  about  six  feet  wide.11 


From  Appleton's  Annual  Encyclopaedia,  1885: 
"Lake  Itasca,  which  has  been  distinguished  as  the  head  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi for  fifty  years,  must,  it  seems,  yield  that  distinction  to  a  smaller 
lake,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length  by  a  mile  in  width,  lying  farther 
south,  discovered  by  Captain  Willard  Glazier  in  1881,  and  named  for 
him  Lake  Glazier.11 


From  Armstrong's  Encyclopaedia,  Published  by  F.  J.  Schulte, 

Chicago: 
"  The  necessary  changes  in  regard  to  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi 
will  be  made  in  the  next  edition  of  my  Encyclopaedia.11 


Several  of  the  Passenger  Agents  of  our  great  railways  whose 
lines  run  through  Northern  Minnesota  have  signified  their 
intention  to  give  Lake  Glazier  its  proper  place  on  their 
railway  mnps  and  illustrated  time-tables.  The  following  are 
a  few  of  the  number: 

From  E.  A.  Ford,  General  Passenger  Agent,  Pennsylvania  Lines 
West  of  Pittsburg: 

"I  have  instructed  our  advertising  clerk  to  call  the  attention  of  our 
engravers  to  the  fact  that  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River  should 
hereafter  be  shown  as  Lake  Glazier,  instead  of  Lake  Itasca.11 


APPENDIX.  525 

From  J.  S.  Tebbets,  General  Passenger  Agent,  Union  Pacific  Railway: 

"  I  thank  you  for  the  information  in  regard  to  our  railway  map,  and 

have  sent  instructions  to  our  engravers  to  make  the  necessary  corrections 

in  the  next  issue,  showing  Lake  Glazier  as  the  Source  of  the  Mississippi." 


From  J.  R.    Wood,  General  Passenger  Agent,  The  Pennsylvania 
Railroad  Company: 

"We  will  make  the  correction  in  the  next  issue  of  the  maps  issued 
by  this  company  which  will  cover  the  points  mentioned  by  you,  namely, 
Lake  Glazier,  the  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  Please  accept  our 
thanks.1 ' 


From  J.  E.  Hannegan,  General  Passenger  Agent,  Burlington,  Cedar 
Rapids,  and  Northern  Railway: 

"  I  shall  arrange  to  have  our  map  plates  corrected  so  as  to  show  the 
True  Source  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and  am  glad  you  have  called  my 
attention  to  this  matter." 


III. 

Report  op  the  Committee  Appointed  to  Superintend 
Survey  and  Investigations  at  the  Headwaters 
of  the  Mississippi— 1891. 

Central  House, 
Park  Rapids,  Minnesota, 
September  2,  1891. 
To  Whom  it  May  Concern:    The  undersigned  were  among  the  mem- 
bers of  a  party  who  have  just  returned  from  a  visit  to  the  region  around 
Lake  Itasca  in  company  with  Captain  Willard  Glazier  for  the  purpose  of 
investigating  it,  and  ascertaining  the  facts  concerning  the  Headwaters 
of  the  Mississippi  River. 

The  party,  while  invited  by  Captain  Glazier,  were  under  no  obliga- 
tions to  him,  directly  or  indirectly;  and  their  purpose  was  to  see  for 
themselves,  and  to  report  impartially  to  the  public,  upon  the  facts  ascer- 
tained by  personal  observation. 

The  following  statement  has  been  formulated  by  us  as  a  committee, 
and  is  hereby  presented,  without  Captain  Glazier's  knowledge: 

I.  Two  streams  were  found  entering  the  southwest  arm  of  Lake 
Itasca— one  to  the  southwest,  known  as  Nicollet  Creek;  the  other  to  the 
southeast,  flowing  from  the  Glazier  Lake. 

II.  Nicollet  Creek  was  traversed  from  its  mouth  up  through 
Nicollet's  First  and  Second  Lakes.  The  creek  was  still  farther  traced 
until  its  source  was  found  in  a  number  of  springs,  to  the  southeast  of 
which  is  a  ridge  varying  in  height  from  twenty-five  to  forty  feet.  The 
distance  from  Lake  Itasca  to  these  springs  was  chained  and  found  to 


526  APPENDIX. 

be  7,307  feet;  this  being  the  remotest  distance,  in  that  direction,  of  run- 
ning water.  The  ridge  was  ascended  and  crossed  to  Nicollet's  Third 
Lake,  so  called,  and  the  region  beyond  traversed  for  several  miles. 
HI.  The  stream  flowing  from  the  Glazier  Lake  to  Lake  It  a  sea  was 
chained,  also  the  Glazier  Lake;  and  its  tributaries  were  followed  up  and 
chained.  There  are  five  tributaries  to  this  lake,  which  is  1,100  feet  from 
Lake  Itasca,  as  follows:  On  the  east  side,  fifty  feet  from  the  bank 
a  spring  flows  in  a  cascade  to  the  lake.  Deer  Creek  is  6,864  feet  long. 
Excelsior  Creek  is  8,788  feet  long,  making  the  distance  from  its  source, 
through  the  Glazier  Lake  to  Lake  Itasca,  14,106  feet.  Horton  Creek 
is  1,188  feet  long,  flowing  from  a  lake  two  acres  in  area.  Eagle  Creek 
is  4,356  feet  long,  flowing  from  Lake  Alice,  924  feet  long,  and  Lake  Alice 
has  a  tributary  1,518  feet  long. 

IV.  The  distance  of  the  most  remote  running  water  from  Lake  Itasca 
flowing  through  the  Glazier  Lake  to  Itasca — the  source  of  Excelsior  Creek 
—is  6,799  feet  more  than  the  distance  from  Lake  Itasca  of  the  most 
remote  running  water  flowing  into  Itasca  through  Nicollet  Creek. 

V.  The  Glazier  Lake  has  an  area  of  255  acres.  It  is  a  clearly  defined 
body  of  water,  many  times  larger  and  more  imposing  than  any  or  all  of 
the  bodies  of  water  emptying  into  Lake  Itasca  through  Nicollet  Creek; 
and  observation  and  investigation  lead  us  to  the  conclusion  that  the  basin 
drained  by  the  feeders  to  the  Glazier  Lake,  and  emptying  into  Itasca  at 
the  southeast  corner  of  the  southwest  arm,  is  larger  than  that  drained 
by  the  stream  emptying  into  the  south  side  of  the  southwest  arm — 
Nicollet  Creek;  and  that  running  water  can  be  traced  at  a  much  greater 
distance  from  the  outlet  of  the  Glazier  Lake  into  Itasca  than  from  the 
other  outlet  referred  to. 

(Signed)  John  C.  Crane, 

Daniel  S.  Knowlton, 
C.  E.  Harrison, 
Fred  J.  Trost, 
A.  Munsell, 
W.  S.  Shure, 
A.  W.  Whitney, 
Committee  of  Investigation  of  the  Glazier  Expedition,  1891. 

Before  closing  this  Appendix,  I  may  be  permitted  to  say- 
that,  in  nothing  I  have  advanced,  have  I,  knowingly,  over- 
stepped the  bounds  of  truth.  As  the  reader  will  probably 
gather,  I  feel  very  strongly  that  an  injustice  has  been  done  by 
certain  parties  to  a  citizen  who  deserved  nothing  but  commen- 
dation at  their  hands  for  his  meritorious  and  disinterested 
labor  in  a  field  neglected  by  others,  and,  I  may  add,  especially 
fay  those  who  have  been  foremost  in  attacking  him.  The  con- 
duct of  these  parties  would  have  been  less  open  to  censure,  if 
they  had  refrained  from  the  use  of  language  unbecoming  gen- 
tlemen, and  supposed  men  of  learning,  and  confined  them- 


APPENDIX.  527 

selves  to  controverting  the  position  of  Captain  Glazier  by  pro- 
ducing reliable  counter-evidence  to  prove  that  he  was  in  error 
in  his  conclusions.  This,  however,  being  impossible,  recourse 
was  had  to  abuse  of  a  malignant  character,  for  which  there 
was  no  excuse. 

As  will  be  seen,  Captain  Glazier  has  numerous  friends  and 
supporters  throughout  the  country — men  of  intelligence  and 
standing — aud  I  am  thoroughly  persuaded  that  among  people 
generally,  competent  to  entertain  an  opinion  upon  the  subject 
in  controversy,  an  overwhelming  number  will  be  found  to  up- 
hold his  views. 

I  conclude  by  reiterating  that  I  am  thoroughly  convinced 
from  my  own  observations  made  on  the  spot  in  the  month  of 
August,  1891,  and  confirmed  by  the  competent  and  disinter- 
ested testimony  of  every  member  of  the  expedition,  that  Lake 
Glazier,  lying  immediately  to  the  south  of  Lake  Itasca,  is  the 
Primal  Reservoir,  or  Ultimate  Source,  of  the  Mississippi 
River. 

Pearce  Giles. 
Camden,  New  Jersey, 

January  24,  1893. 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY, 
BERKELEY 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 

STAMPED  BELOW 

Books  not  returned  on  time  are  subject  to  a  fine  of 
50c  per  volume  after  the  third  day  overdue,  increasing 
to  $1.00  per  volume  after  the  sixth  day.  Books  not  in 
demand  may  be  renewed  if  application  is  made  before 
expiration  of  loan  period. 


tJSQSB 

IB 

JUL   26   1S4a 
RECEIVED  BY 

Wgm 

SEP  2  8  1984 

CIRCULATION  DEPT. 

WEfSf 

50m-8,'26 

^B[^w^Mftfe^E^q| 

yB2034/     J 

^|*  ^»^  rP^^sf^^pB^F^^^^^i^^^^Fl 

ipl 

M?AfefM 

EJfS^ — *          7-~rr  r*i  *r 

/  222987 

y  ^~y^g~"^  4m/  ifj^H^  y  % 

^^^^^^WMPrVurF^^-Sfy* 

|ppBjljligB| 

1r    ^%     ,^^%PnF  T^y^^^fc^7 

w    9    ^  #y     *"  F  &9£&%ff^fm, 

